Procreate: Solid Foundations, Part 5 - Paint 3d Objects | Simon Foster | Skillshare
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Procreate: Solid Foundations, Part 5 - Paint 3d Objects

teacher avatar Simon Foster

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Hello and Welcome!

      0:53

    • 2.

      Importing and the Basics

      13:02

    • 3.

      Adding Image Maps

      9:10

    • 4.

      Materials, Lights and Space

      13:13

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About This Class

You only learn Procreate once, so learn it properly!

You created your first artwork in part one and learned about color and brushes. You took your knowledge to the next level in parts 2 and 3. You animated in part 4. Now it's time to paint 3d objects!

On this course you will:

  • Learn how paint on a 3d object
  • Learn how to apply existing images to a 3d object
  • Learn how to light 3d objects
  • Learn to create animated previews of your objects

Treat yourself to a thorough grounding in the tools and techniques that Procreate has to offer. Along the way you'll get tips and advice from someone with nearly 40 years as a digital designer/illustrator.

There are hundreds - no - thousands of Procreate tutorials out there that show you how to do this or how to paint that. But do you ever get the feeling that there are gaps in your knowledge? How do you know when you've learned all the important stuff? These are the questions that Simon's Procreate: Solid Foundations classes answer.

All you need to bring is Procreate plus ideally an Apple pencil for your iPad and you're set to go. This course is aimed at beginners plus existing users who want to round out their knowledge. But that doesn't mean it's over simplified. Nope! You will learn the same tools and techniques that are used in professional studios.

As well as being a designer/illustrator for decades, Simon also spent time as a teacher and his university degree is all about how people learn. And it is his firm belief that the right way to learn something like Procreate is not to just learn the tools. The right way to learn Procreate is to practice the right workflow, and use the tools when they are needed.

See you on the course!

Meet Your Teacher

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Simon Foster

Teacher

Hi, I'm Simon, aka Drippycat.

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Transcripts

1. Hello and Welcome!: Hello and welcome to Procreate solid foundations Part five, Paint 3D objects. On this course, you'll be painting a 3D object of a soda can, and you will learn how to import 3D objects, how to paint on the objects. But also you'd be learning how to import a position 2D files on 3D objects. You will learn how to creatively light your objects. You will learn how to create an export at turntable animation of your painted objects. By the end of the class, you'll have an image to share with others in this class if you feel you're ready while not import your own 2D texture of you or someone you love and have that face appear on the cap. So you have something which is unique and yours are posted online so that others can see it. Does that sound like fun? Great. We'll make a start in the next video, and I will see you there. 2. Importing and the Basics: Okay, so procreate 5.2 is here and the big headline grabbing feature is the ability to paint on 3D objects. So let's take a look at that. And in order to do that, you're going to need some 3D objects to paint with. So this is what you do. You come to the wrench icon and you come across to help. There is a setting here called What's New, tap on that. And you get this screen, all the nice things you can do in Procreate 5.2. Where I'm circling, it says Model park, tap on that to download some 3D models. Procreate has given us to work with. Now I've already done that, so I will come up to the top right Whether a little x's, cancel that. And if I come to my gallery, there you go. These are the models along the top that you can use. And I'm going to use the soda count. But I am going to duplicate it. Because you're going to be figuring out 3D inside Procreate, and you're going to be experimenting. And part of experimenting is making mistakes. So I don't want to mess up my original soda can file and start again with something that wasn't like it originally was. So unlike a duplicate, I'll work on the duplicate knowing that I can lose this at anytime and just start again without a problem. Okay, let's cut to the overhead view because I just want to mention a couple of things about gestures. A single finger will rotate your object around in space. Two fingers will move it, and a pinch in or out. We'll zoom in or out. Now. That's just tap to select the body of a cancer. It appears in blue. What brush do I have? Hard air brush. That's why What color do I have? Let's make it a fairly light blue. And when I paint, I can paint on the surface of the camp. If I tap on the lid of the can, choose different color just to make things clear. I can then paint on that. But the tab isn't selected. I will tap on that to select that and choose another color again. And I can paint on that. That is because whoever created this can made it as three separate meshes, the body, the head, and the Tab. And they combine them together into one object. And if you come to the layers panel, you can see this. I have three different layers that can tap the lid. And they all have something in common, and that is something called a UV map. So let's talk about that now. Our 3D model is basically a series of points in space that are connected by lines. And the lines go to make polygons. And you use various modelling techniques to create a model like this can, but then you need to find a way to color it in and make it shiny or rough or light or dark. There's a couple of ways of doing this, but the method you need to use if you're going to import our 3D model into procreate, is something called UV mapping. Now for UV mapping, just imagine you've got some chicken wire. ****, if you don't know what chicken wire is, think of a fishing net that's made out of very fine wire, which you can use as a fence to keep chickens in. But instead of doing that, you want to make a real-life 3D model. You bend it around and bend it into various shapes. And eventually you end up with say, a carnival head for example. But then you need to stick on a huge piece of paper over the wire so that you can paint the face of the carnival head onto it. And if you're going to do that, you've got to know how to wrap the paper around the chicken wire model so that everything you paint is where it's supposed to be. Or UV mapping is a bit like that. It takes a flat image and it pins that flat layer onto your 3D model in such a way so that when you paint something onto that flat layer which has been UV mapped, also a 3D model, the brushstroke goes where you expect you to go and ideally you don't get any unwelcome distortions or anything like that. And you need that UV mapping information when you import a 3D model into Procreate. Now the file formats you can use our USD Z or USDA's plus OBJ. These are very common file formats. The OBJ file format, it can be imported and exported from any 3D program I can think of. But this 3D model of a canon has hard UV mapping plus bitmaps applied in a 3D program. Now we've got to paint them. If we come to our layers panel, I have three different groups here. I have the lid, I have the tub, have the cannon, and each one of those has something called a layer there plus a little cube. If I come to the cam, I'm going to tap on that little cube. What you get is three different bitmaps and they all affect the look of that CAN in different ways, the color. That's where you're going to be painting a different colors on. But also you can decide how rough or smooth or Canada's and also how shiny, metallic or not, the cameras, we will come on to that very soon. But for now I have the base layer selected. I have a green and what brush do I have? Medium hot blood from the airbrushing. And if I draw on this camp, look at that. I can draw directly onto it. And if I put my finger just to the side and push, I can move the camera around and look at that. I've painted directly onto the surface of the curve, which is very nice. It doesn't have to be a simple color. You can use any of your brushes. You can. Vary the color. Live S. That is the basics of how you start to paint onto your chain. Kenneth. Let's get on and actually paint somebody alter this count. I've tapped the body to select it. My paintbrush. I'm using the medium airbrush. It's so large size 100%, and I have kind of a bubblegum pink color. Let's just start painting. Well, I can paint like this and move around. That is a bit long-winded though, so I will two-finger tap twice to undo. Instead. You can see I'm painting on my base layer and if I just tap on it, I can fill the layer with the pink. But again, I am going to undo that because I don't want to paint on my base layer. I'm gonna leave it intact and instead I'm going to create a new layer on top of it, layer six. You can see when you're painting a 3D object, you still going to get that little q, which I'm circling now. And if you tap on it, you can see you have three different areas where you can paint the color, roughness and the metallic at the moment they are all empty. But I will just tap and click on Fill layer. Everything is filled up now and now we're going to create another layer on top of this. And I want to choose a deeper color now, something they're a bit stronger. I will switch to my soft air brush. I get it. Big server can reduce the opacity because I want to gradually build up shadow on the top of the airbrush, going down almost straightaway. You can see I might get a bit of a problem with this because especially in some of the areas where it's not fully opaque, I'm starting to get little streaks going down the side of the can. Wear the area I'm brushing. Got slightly different opacities. You got these little overlap problems. Also, it is a very common thing where you get very happy painting a certain area of your 3D objects that you forget to do around the back. Just in case you're thinking, well, obviously you've got to pay all of the objects. You'll be surprised how often you don't. What I'm gonna do slide and we're going to delete that layer, create a new layer, and start again. But this time I want to see the area I'm going to paint unwrapped. So I come to my wrench icon and you can see I have a little icon here called 3D. This is new to Procreate 5.2. I'm gonna come down to show to the texture and turn it on. All of a sudden, I get this. Do you remember me saying how the UV mapping helps map a flat image onto a 3D object will this is the flat image unwrapped. And you can do a lot of work with this that you can do with all your regular paint brushes. And also I'm gonna two-finger tap and rotate like this. So I can look at this with it not on its side. And from here I have the same airbrush as before. I know that the area I'm doing right now is the top of the can. And so it could stop during what I've just done, just going from side-to-side and try to vary the opacity. But that's going to lead to a couple of problems. The first one is, you see that pink circle at the top that I think it's the lower part of a cat. And it's all very nice painting the sides of a cannon like I'm doing now. But I've just painted a slightly random area on the bottom of the can and I can't see the 3D view to double-check this. Well, actually it turns out the account, if I come to the wrench icon and outcome to Canvas and open reference. Look at this. I can zoom in and out with this and I can rotate it around so I can actually see what I'm doing like this. That's gonna give me a clear right there. And also the nice thing about it, if I just choose another very bright color and I'll choose a different brush. Let's try the medium hard airbrush. If I draw on my can see it updates once I finished my stroke and let go. You can see while you're drawing on your cam, this is very useful and all the usual navigation where I do a two-finger rotate or zoom in and out. I can do all that stuff as well. But also you can see another problem here. I have a seam on the back of a current, and I've also still probably got the problem maybe on the base of the cat where a little bit is coloured slightly darker pink than the rest of the base. I think we need a couple of workflow enhancements with this. I'll get rid of my reference. I will come back to 3D. Turn off Show details just so I'm back in my main screen. And I'm gonna get rid of this yet again, because I want to try and show you a slightly better way. Create a new layer. On top on show 2D texture. Now I know you can see the pink, but what I'm painting on is actually the empty layer paint you can see is on the layer below it. Now I'm just going to tap and hold right up in the top right-hand corner to get back the color I was working with. And this time, what do I have? I'll choose hard air brush and I will come to my selections. And I'm going to create a rectangle. And then I'm gonna come to my paintbrush and create a solid black area like this. Then I'm going to tap in my selection is to get rid of it. Then I'm gonna come to my adjustments and anyone come to Gaussian blur, I'm just going to slide so I get a really, really soft gradation like this. Then I'm going to create a rectangle in the middle of all of that was soft, fuzzy, square. And I'm making sure that I go from the darker color right through to where the Gaussian blur completely fades away, then I'm going to invert. So now we can work on everything to be outside of my little right-angle. Welcome to my eraser. I have a hard eraser selected. I'm just going to erase everything on the outside. Once I tap on your selection icon just to let go again, I'm left with a little strip of gradients. Then I will come to my adjustments. It set a free form, that's what I want. And so I'm just going to stretch the whole thing or write out like this and stretch this up to the top. Stretch this down towards the bottom. In fact Arctic or the way down like this. Then I'll tap again on my adjustments icon to commit to that. That way I have my gradient sitting on top with all the stretching and getting a little bit of banding there. So I'm wondering maybe I should blow the whole thing a little bit. Let's try coming back to Gaussian blur. And again, just blurred it should a tiny amount. Just to work on some of those little bands of color. Top again on my adjustments to commit to that. Now let's take a look at that inside my reference for you. And now when I turn around, it's nearly there. I've still got a slight same going down the back of it and I think I know what's causing that. So I will turn off reference, come back to my Transform because I think I need to stretch it out a little bit more on that side. And let's play safe and do it on that side. Tapped commit. Now let's just come back to 3D view. So actions 3D SHO to detect Your turn it off and move it around. And I've got a much more smoother gradient to this. That's what I want. 3. Adding Image Maps: Okay, so I've done a bit of painting with this. Can, I will do some more. But for now, let me tell you a couple of things that at the moment you can't do in this 3D view. You can't use your symmetry tools and also you can't add text. But while the Yukon do is create a regular image with text or symmetry or whatever you want. And then you can place that image onto the surface of your 3D object. So let's do that. Let's come to ad. And I will insert a file. Now at the bottom I have a file called Zombie Fizz 01. I will be giving this to you as a download. And if I tap on it, there I have my zombie phase image. It's not quite where I wanted, but I can pinch outwards to make it bigger. I can drag it around with one finger and I can also two-finger rotate it. To get it to be more warehouse. I would like it to be. That's a nice and quick and dirty way of doing it. But there is something here called advanced. And when you do advanced, you get a gizmo, move it around. You can see you get a circle with a couple of squares, a little dot sitting in front of your circle, that little blue dot, I'm certainly Annapolis or so you get a little semi shiny circle just on that boy's nose. Look, it was Hillary and a couple of days ago, my son water meter of paint him in the zombie style. So I did, and I thought it would make a nice image just so his tutorial or just for the record, no, his eyes aren't really that color. Anyway. I've got a place, it's not bad. I would like it to be bigger. So I can stretch things independently by using those two little squares which you can see one of them dragging around. Now, if I push it too far, it starts to wrap around the side of a camera a little bit too much. So you do have to be careful of that when you're trying to work in 3D. If I drag on the circle which is around the outside, I can rotate the little circle just in the middle, just Whereas gnosis, I can move the whole thing around like this. If I move around a little bit, you see that little sphere which I'm circling now if I move that, you can see it rotates the angle of the image. Let's move that around a little bit. Well, for more complex object, this can be useful. It's not working particularly well with volunteering hair. Certain bits of getting clipped, likely that bit of the Z just on the end of his zombie phase at the top, there is something you can do if you come down to where it says projection, you get something called projection depth that controls how deeply the immaterial placing gets placed onto the 3D object. If I make projection depth below it, can you see that you get a kind of a box that shows you the start and the end points of your projection. But if I move it back to it's more than 16% that you can see. I get the exclamation mark, which was hidden before. It's important to play around with that. If I turn on bi-directional, the case of a exclamation mark, it did make it a little bit more clear, look off and on. But the problem I've got is that I want this image to be wrapped around the camp, but it's not quite working because, well, you can see I'm getting distortions. So what I will do is I'll tap on my selection icon again, ankles my layers panel. You can see I have the inserted image there, but I'm gonna get rid of it. Again. The 3D placement gizmo didn't work too well for this particular object. It can work better for other objects. But I'm going to show you another way of doing things. If I come to my 3D and outcome to show to the toaster, then I'm gonna come back to my range and insert a file as before, zombie for 01. It comes in and you can see it's kind of word, but there's a problem. It's underneath that shaded lamb. That because if I come to my layers panel, you can see, well, I had layer six elected instead of layer seven. Not a problem with 2D. I can just tap and hold on the layer, drag it up, and it gets placed above that shaded layer. That's what I want. So I can come to my transform tool and move it around to where I want. There you go. That's placed. It's all good. And let's take a look. If I counted my canvas come to reference. And there's my car in all its glory. But you can see it's got placed a little bit too big. Look at the bottom, that caution text at the bottom needs to go up a little bit also the top of the text that looks a bit too big as well. So I will come back to my Transform and make the whole thing smaller as two-finger drag up so I can see more clearly what I'm doing. I'm noticing this. If I turn off to commit to that transform, it doesn't transform in real time. You have to commit to it nearly there with us. Let's do a little bit more. It needs to be up a little bit. Maybe the whole thing place down. Commits, transforms over. And let's take a look at this. That looks all right, so I will close my reference image and I will come back to 3D, showed AT texture. Look at that. Because I placed that while everything was in the 2D view, I'm finding it wraps around the can much more nicely than me trying to do it in the viewer, in now the 3D view. But okay, I'm nearly there with this. I would like to do a little bit more to it. I would like to come to Layer seven and create a new layer, add, oh, look, I got that. Maximum of four layers reached. Maybe that is a memory limitation for my iPad. Maybe that is a technical limitation from the actual program. I don't know. But the good thing is, we'll look that gradient which I placed. I like it so I can always merge down. Now once I've done that, create a new layer. And let's create just a couple of more things here. Let's see what color I've got a fairly deep color now let's make this a nice deep red, intense red as well. What brushes do I have? Well, because I have the new procreate 5.2 recents don't have anything in here which I can use. No, they're not fair. But I did find Let's come down to water, just down in the bottom. We'll look at this splashes. Let's try waterfall. It's all opacity of a 100. Let's make it nice and big. Just tap and tap and, oh, look at this. This is looking nice, maybe a little bit too big. So I'll undo that again and make it a little bit smaller. And also I want to make it a little bit more intense red. Because the layer I'm painting on is in-between the base pink and the zombie phase image. You can see that those little splatters are going underneath the zombie phase image, which is fine by the way, the zombie first, this is a PNG file with transparency. So I don't get any nasty white backgrounds. I only get the image where I wanted. But again, I'm running into a bit of a problem with this. Because look at this bit. Because this brush is splitting down things over a really wide area. I'm getting these streets. This is a very common thing. So tap to undo, to undo and tap again until we get back to where I started. For this. Yes, let's go to show to the toaster. And there you go. I can split down a couple of images like this. While we're here as well. Let's come to our water drip. Let's do a couple of them. Just here. Let's come back in our 3D view. And there's everything wrapped around much more nicely. This is all starting to work for me. I think I'll play around with this a little bit. Let's come to this list six, because we are dealing with painting different colors. I can always go to my adjustments, come to hue saturation and brightness. And we can change the hue to whatever I want. Let's make this a more intense green like that. I mean, come on, it's Halloween stuff. So greens and reds, they're pretty popular for halloween. And I will tap to commit to that. We have there we have My can with several layers painted on top of it and then inserted image. And we've also seen wanted to gotchas along the way and what to do about them. Okay, so, so far we've been painting using color. But if I come to my base layer and I'll come to a new search and cooled materials. Allow choose, say this one here. I can paint on the image. Something happened, which is new, but I'm not painting color here. If I was painting color, I'll be painting it red, but instead I'm painting different surface attributes to this. Can, I will talk about what exactly is happening there in the next video. 4. Materials, Lights and Space: Okay, let's talk about how we got those rather interesting effects. Where we painted on the side of a cat and we got something looking really different color, different texture, different shading, two-finger tap to undo that. Well, if we come to our layers panel and we'll open up, say, the base layer, the one that came with a 3D object. And if I tap on my little 3D cube, you can see, instead of just having one color layer, I've got two extras, roughness and metallic. This controls the look of your surfaces. You're painting in various different ways. The roughness, how rough or smooth it is, a metallic. How shiny or Matt it is. This object already came, the roughness and the metallic already put in place. And if I come to save a lid, for example. Unless take a look at this later, actually. You can see I've got some rather different patterns there. The metallic is very light, which means you get a very metal looking at affect the roughness. You can see that's quite complicated. You can see all these kind of brushed metal effect on top of the cam. Let's do an act of vandalism shall be with this. I will come to brushing, hard air brush. I'll choose a straight up black for this. Then I will come to my base layer and I'll come to, come to metallic, which is white. I'm going to paint black on it. What's happening there? You can see my tiny little black brushstrokes which I made on that metallic part of the lid. It's not shiny anymore. It's very dull, it's very non-metallic, not shiny. That's because I painted black on service. Do you remember layer masks where you get a lay-up and you add a layer mask to it, which starts out as white like the metallic does, and everything is visible. But once you start to paint in black on it, the layer in that particular area becomes invisible. Same principle here. But instead of controlling how invisible or visible things are, this is controlling how metallic your object appears at this particular point. If you paint white, it's going to look very metallic. If you paint black is going to look not metallic at all. If you paint unmade gray, you're going to get a slightly metallic look. Two-finger tap to undo that. And let's come to our roughness tab. If I paint in white, you have that kind of effect. If I paint in black, you get that kind of effect because with metallic, while the whole area can be metallic, but the roughness, the various different light and dark grays, which gives you the appearance of being rough, typically with something called a bump map in 3D, the white of the area, the higher the surface appears to be in the dark of the area, the last push down the surface appears to be. Rather than painting with a simple brush like this, Let's try textured brush. Let's try to claim sole paint onto the area here. Now can you see I still have a texture there, but it's different to what I had before that because I applied a different paintbrush. Alright, so what does that mean for us? Well, let's close that up and come down to our Can. I have a number of 3D materials here? Or they've already had programmed into them how metallic or how rough the surface that you want to paint is. And let's just try, Let's just try the same brush you can. And sure enough, if I paint, you can see it affects the whole area. Let's double-tap to undo that and take a closer look at what's happening. If I tap on this brush and I come to the studio, you can see the extra tab I have which says in materials and showing off you'd have metallic and roughness there. If I open those up and I'll make a brush stroke like this, you can see I have to match just like we have for things like the shape or the grain. But instead, you have texture maps for metallic. Let's do this. Let's come to the metallic source and I can import the file from my default library. Let's come to bark. For example, tap on done. And I'm going to get a slightly different effect with this. I can control the scale of it. Can you see the scale being altered there? Same thing with the roughness. I can come and I can import. Let's try bonobo. Let's see what that looks like. Tap on Done. I can adjust the scale of that. And if I make a pro stroke like this, can you see how, if you lots of little pockmarks. As I move the scale around, now with the drawing pad, you get something called a 3D preview. This is new. I've noticed that with these new brushes that you get with 5.2, this doesn't do much. But if you come to a brush, which traditionally has been a 2D brush, and suppose you come to vine charcoal. I think this might be a bit of a glitch because look, it doesn't work on that either. But if I come to W1 and then it'll come down to willow charcoal and take a look at this. With that, the 3D preview turned on and off. 5.2 is just come out. This might be a bit of a bug where the 3D preview doesn't always work. This is what we used to just making a brushstroke like this. But if we come internal 3D preview, we can test and see how the brushstroke looks on a plane surface. So if I come to materials, metallic roughness, and if I bring up the metallic, you can see the brush dots be affected and also the amount, the amount of the roughness. Glossy, he gets very shiny. The more you bring it up, the more matter looks uncertain case of playing around with these sliders to get the effectual looking for. Alright, I'm gonna click Cancel for that. Let's come back to materials again. Let's try another one. Fell knew. That sounds nice. Let's just check my layers and let's try adding, say amid greater this. And sure enough, you can see the effect like this. Now here's the thing. Show 2D texture. You can't paint the 2D texture you have to paint in 3D. Just choose another approach effect, just to show you how you can vary it in different ways. There we go. But the final thing to say is, well, the more mortality rate is, the more it reflects. The next question is, well, what's it reflecting in the first place? When you paint in 3D, you need some kind of environment of that's going to be a background which can reflect off the shiny surfaces. You need an environment. Come to our wrench icon, 3D and edit, lighting and environment. Sure enough, there's our ten count. I just single finger, drag around, move it around, and pinch in and out to finger to move it around. And I get a series of cubes that these are lights and I can drag those lights around like this. Let's coming closer and drag. Can you see how that highlight is clearly off the current? As I move my light around, I have to be careful with this because you're looking at this into d, but this is a 3D environments. And when I move it around, the relationship of that light next to 3D object can change depending upon the angle you're looking at. So be prepared to do a lot of single finger dragging it around to see how that light looks in various different In places. If I tap on the lights, I get for light settings, the intensity is at 32%. I can increase it so I get more light on my object like this. The saturation is set to completely desaturated, so it's a very plain white effect. But if I increase the saturation, I'm getting more of a red light because he was set to read and I can move that around to where I want. Now there are a whole load of things inside any lighting environment that you need in order to get a very realistic look. But you can't make a start with this because light has different temperatures. Candlelight is very warm. Nighttime can be very cool. So well, I wouldn't say saturated as that, but saturation up somewhere, getting a slight tint of light. Just to get a slightly different effects. And I'll take this intensity down because otherwise you will get a very blown out effect where you can't make out any details. So I'll drag that down like that, tap away, pinch out. You can see I have three lights at the moment. I can drag this around to where I want. I can add a light just in the top right and move that one around. You can have up to four lights here. The other thing which you get a background to reflect off your actual object, it a bit bigger. If I tap on environment, you've got something here called show environment. I can turn that off. So everything becomes black in the background, but you still get the reflections. I will turn on Show environment and you get lots of different options at the moment I'm set to daytime, but I have things like Sunrise, which gives a warmer finish, nightlife, studio lights. And you can choose any one of these to reflect off the surface of your account. And you can adjust the overall lightness or darkness arrived here and tap on Done once you've done that, that is my object and I'm sorry, thrilled about it. I want this to go out into the world. So come to my wrench icon. Let's share, to share with the world, you can export your model blackout. And so it can go talk to other 3D programs where you can do more work with it. You might want to choose us DZ or object files. And the program knows about object files. But also if you look down the bottom, it's has something called Share textures. If you do that, then only the texts that you've already painted, That's the various textures you can see, which we've been painting beforehand. They will all get exported out as PNG file, so you can wrap them around the object in your 3D program of choice. You can share as a standard JPEG or PNG or tiff. But you can also set up a little cycling animation. I suppose I choose The Animated PNG. I get this little preview of what I can do. The animation duration set to. I can slow it down like that. So it slows down a little bit more like that. So it looks even more gorgeous. It's set to animated rotate. I can also have animated swing where it goes first-world way than the other. The Zoom distance is set to all I've said it pretty high a 100%. If I lower that a little bit, it doesn't go backwards or forwards quite as much. The ecetera, a 100%. If I drop that down, it gets a little bit more jerky. You that a little a glitch at the end. I can make that a lot smoother life bat. And the animation duration. I can slow that down if I want as well. Sharing environments. I can turn that off, in which point I get a transparent look, I get the extra option of transparent background. If I turn that on, I can render this out so there'll be no background. So that would just be floating in space that can be useful for compositing. I'll turn that back off. Come down straight animated MP4. If you do something like that, you do get a choice of different resolutions. Fairly low resolution, medium resolution for K, very big. But just at the top, you can see the different file sizes you're going to end up with, depending on what resolution you do, you will not be able to have a transparent background. If you do this, you can't get that with MP4 files. You can go for a square like this out up on council for that because frankly, it's making me feel ceasing. Okay, So this was the big headline grabbing feature of 5.2. And in my time I've spent a lot of hours in front of various different 3D programs. What do I think about this? I think it is a good start and I'll be interested to see where it goes. The fact that you need to import a model with a UV map already. There can be a little bit of a problem because you may have to import from a desktop. So this 5.2 release, I regard as a good start, there are certain problems. You can't add text. I think I might have found one or two little glitches with things like the brushes and be able to preview them in 3D. But it's going to be very interesting to see what the makers appropriate do with this in the future. That is 3D in a nutshell.