Sketch a Hummingbird • Simple, Relaxing, Loose Watercolor Journaling #5 | Sandy Sandy | Skillshare

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Sketch a Hummingbird • Simple, Relaxing, Loose Watercolor Journaling #5

teacher avatar Sandy Sandy, Learn.Love.Create with SandySandyArt

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      5:30

    • 2.

      Reference

      1:45

    • 3.

      Supplies

      6:09

    • 4.

      Pencil Drawing

      4:30

    • 5.

      Inking

      6:17

    • 6.

      Lettering

      4:15

    • 7.

      Planning

      6:11

    • 8.

      Background

      4:08

    • 9.

      Painting the Bird

      4:38

    • 10.

      Final Details

      6:04

    • 11.

      Closing Thoughts

      3:11

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About This Class

This is Class #4 in My Loose Watercolor Sketching Series Here on Skillshare, and it is a sequel to my first class: Watercolor & Ink Sketching Can Improve Your Vision & Style

Sketch a hummingbird with this easy, informal, approach to fun watercolor sketching and journaling.  The process is ideal for fast, creative depictions in pencil, ink, and watercolor. A watercolor journal or a loose piece of watercolor paper can be used to do this project. You'll need only basic sketching and watercolor supplies, so use what you have. Details about specific materials I am using are listed on the  supply list download which is available in the class Projects & Resources section.

What You'll Get From This Class:

• My recommended tools and supplies

• Access to Bonus Printouts in the *Projects and Resources” Section (in .jpg and .pdf format)

     • Watercolor Sketching Supplies #4
     • HB Photo
     • HB Grid ref 1
     • HB Grid ref 2
     • HB sketch-ref-1
     • HB sketch-ref-2
     • Hand Lettering
     • Elements of Design
     • Principles of Design

* Working with Grids - See tutorials here: 'Loosen Up and Enjoy Easy Watercolor Sketching #2'

• Basic drawing, inking and watercolor tips

• How to use color more expressively

• Adding variety to your work in color, shape and texture

• Finishing details that make your work shine

Meet Your Teacher

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Sandy Sandy

Learn.Love.Create with SandySandyArt

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Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi everybody. Sandy. Sandy here. Named by my parents, Sandra Sandy. I have always been known as Sandy, sandy in everyday life. Self-expression through art has taken many forms through the gears, from learning to draw with John navy on TV to holding summer art camp in my parents garage. When I was 13. I graduated from art college with a degree in illustration and painting 45 years ago and have been in the art field ever since. I owned an advertising illustration and signed studio with my ex husband until 1996. I then turned my attention to painting full time and selling my watercolors at art shows. In 1999, I discovered Whitney and became one of his third-generation disciples. In 2001, my new husband and I built a spacious studio onto our house. I could better accommodate my growing number of students. I've been teaching online for more than a decade and added alcohol ink to my offerings. In 2013. For 20 plus years, I've been teaching people of all ages how to express themselves and let go of the idea of perfection and the fear of making mistakes. I strive to inspire students by showing the house and explaining the whys behind the principles, techniques, and the spirit of art. In this class, I'm gonna show you a fun, loose technique for sketching in watercolor and ink. I firmly believe drawing is an important skill needed for sharpening many abilities as an artist, learning to draw is learning how to really see your drawing style is as personal as your handwriting. And it is what sets you apart and makes you unique. It highlights your personality and your creativity. You need to extrapolate inspiration from other people's work, hone your craft and add your own personal flair to stand out from other artists. Practice and experimentation will lead to results that you may be able to incorporate into your own distinctive manner of expression. I'll go over all the supplies I use to do my watercolor sketches. And the project will familiarize you with my philosophy, process and techniques. I've included loves of reference pronounce with this class. Resources include grid drawings, hand lettering, charts, photo reference, and more. Follow along with my step-by-step tutorials. Stay loose, have fun, and enjoy the process. Don't worry about making mistakes. That's how we learn. Making something out of our mistakes is a good way to develop and enhance our creativity. A sketchbook is a great way to gather ideas, experiment, and make mistakes. You don't have to show everyone your sketches. Do it for yourself and for your own improvement and enjoyment. It's great to follow along with the tutorial to learn techniques and refine your skills as long as you give the instructor credit. But once you've gotten the basics down, you should try to develop your own style that is unique to you. Take inspiration from different artists, different styles and different techniques and combine your favorite elements from each of them. Don't become a carbon copy of another artist. Keep practicing, experimenting, growing, and adding new skills to your toolbox. Don't think too much about making art that fits with your specific style. Instead, just let your ability and art evolve naturally. Thank you so much for joining me here. I'm really looking forward to seeing your sketches. Let's get started. 2. Reference: Today we're just going to do a single hummingbird. I gave you some grid drawings. Practice with the grid drawings first because it will sort of get you back into the swing of things. And it will make it easier when you go to sketch without a grid. I have these two drawings that I'm using for reference and this, I'm not gonna do it with a grid. But this is the pose that I have setup in front of me that I'm using for the gesture of my bird. And I've used this gesture many, many times. Same pose, done different ways. This is a little print that I have, and this is a watercolor actually just on drawing paper. I even use the same pose on my business card and on my logo, on my website with a little alteration. Also, you can use the same pose by just changing the tail, changing the wing position, changing the head position. And all of that changes the whole gesture of your drawing. And it makes it very easy because you're, each drawing is building upon the next one. 3. Supplies: I wanted to go over the materials that I'm using. First thing that I want to mention is about erasers. I like to use a kneaded eraser. Usually when I'm drawing, I have two different brands of kneaded eraser here and they are not all created equal. This is the fabric Estelle kneaded eraser and I have that on my Amazon store. And I also had the Mars plastic eraser. Kneaded eraser is called a kneaded eraser because you can need it. You can use it like silly putty to get the graphite out of the eraser. You can use the kneaded eraser a lot of different ways. You can actually just dab on a drawing to the light lip or you can go ahead and erase the whole thing. But when it gets a lot of graphite on it, you can actually clean it by just meeting it. Now I have this other eraser here and I don't know really what brand it is. But as you see, it doesn't pull apart the same way as the fabric Estelle kneaded eraser leaves like the sticky film. You can feel it on your hands and I'm sure it leaves it on the papers. Well, not all kneaded erasers are created equal. Now, I usually take an eraser this size and I break it up into several smaller erasers. The beauty of the kneaded eraser is that you can actually mold it into a tiny little shape to get in and lighten or erase a very small area. Also have erasing shield. When you're doing pencil drawings and not gonna be erasing it after you do it. And you just want to lighten a small part or erase a small part. This shield really comes in handy because you wouldn't put it on the paper and then you can not disturb the areas around it. So one more thing with the Mars plastic eraser, because this is, It's kind of a big eraser and you don't really need it that big. So I usually just use an exacto knife and cut the eraser and a half before I start using it. The Mars plastic doesn't leave a lot of debris on your paper, like some erasers do. And also with the kneaded eraser, it really doesn't leave any debris at all. So both of these erasers are very good to use. I have all my other supplies here and I'm going to keep it simple today and I'm gonna use my little field artist sketching box. And of course I have a color chart that I have created. I have one for you, Poe paper and one for cotton rag. I keep that right in the palette and it's really handy. These field artists boxes come with 12 colors. And I added this center row from another cheap set that I got. But you can also fill these little pants. These are half pans with tube watercolor. When they get low, you can just put tube watercolor in there and let it dry. And then you've got your pants felt backup. That's several drawing pencils here. I like to use a soft drawing pencil anywhere from an HB to a Forbes or even a five KB. Use for sketching. Usually have several sharpened and ready to go where I start something. I have two micron pens here. I think I have an OH and an O5. I also have two water-soluble Micron pens. I tried an experiment with the water-soluble Micron pens, the watercolor paper. I was thinking I could come back with water and actually move the ink to get a value online sketch. But it didn't work out because it just soaked right into the fibers of the paper. You can use either one and not have it bleed. I'm going to be using my awkward brushes today. I've got three different sizes. And it's a good idea to put your top on the end of your brush so that you don't lose it while you're working. I have a little mini MR. And I use that to wet my colors in my palette. Or if I'm working on a big palette like I am today, this is a butcher's tray. I can wet my pigments on my palette. Last but not least, I use a good quality wire bound professional grade cotton read journal with a £140 cold press surface. See more details on the supply list in the resource section. 4. Pencil Drawing: If I have just sharpened my pencil, see that it's very, very sharp. I don't really like it all that much that sharp. So I would add just use it and kind of wear down that point so it isn't quite so sharp. So I'm gonna go ahead and use one that I've already got worn down here. I start all of my drawings the same way. I do a very light gesture. And then I turn my pencil and I refine my sketch that way. The first thing I'm gonna do is draw a circle for the head. I'm gonna be drawing darker than I normally do so that you guys can see it. But I usually do this first step very, very lightly because I send draw over it. So I do a circle for the head and then an oval for the body. I would do line for the beak. I have to decide which direction I want the head bowing. And the beak determines what direction that the head would be in. In the statutes going down a little bit. I think I'm going to make it go up. Then the tail could be a lot of different configurations in our drawing here, It's just like a triangle that comes off the bat like this. We're sort of a modified triangle. Then the wings, the front wing comes in front of the body here. Then the back wing would be on the other side of the body. That again, it's just a triangle. That's our basic sketch or gesture of our bird. I'm gonna go ahead since you saw it, I'm gonna go ahead and lighten it up a little bit and I can just take my kneaded eraser and just dab it on the paper and it will just lightened along without smearing it or getting rid of it. If you can get into the habit of just doing a quick gesture first, it really does save a lot of time and a lot of decision-making when you can do that. Now I notice on my sketch here the wings are facing further back, but it doesn't matter if you follow it exactly because it's still gonna look right. Now I'm coming in with my pencil held like I would to write my name. And I'm just coming in here with a sketchy line. See, I'm not just going like this, I'm feeling my way through it. Come here. Then the top of the head would be here. Body. You can see the body through the ways because the winds are just gonna be a blur. Maybe I need to make that body little bigger down this way. Maybe that needs to go. You can adjust. As you're drawing this, you can adjust and see what you really want to do with it. Then here, gonna be my tail. The tail doesn't have to be fanned out like this. The tail can just come to a point. I is gonna be right in line with this speed. Okay? I'm going to use that angle for the beak. And then if you come straight out here, this is where the eyes are gonna be. 5. Inking: The next thing I'm gonna do is come in with my pen. I have an O five. You can't really go by the number on the pen because what I've found is when you start using them, a lot of times the very fine points end up getting thicker and I don't know why that is. Maybe the little filament gets bent or something inside of it. But I'm gonna try this 005 and see how thick it actually is. I like to use a Lost and Found edge. Vary the thickness of my line and the more things that you can think of to vary your line, your color, your edges, the more interesting your drawing is gonna be, or your sketch or your painting. I'm going to say the light is coming from the upper left. So that means that my bottom part of the bird is gonna be in shadow. That means my line is going to be thicker down here. So I am just sort of scribbling that line on. I don't like how this writing. I also have a pilot Twin Marker which I can use. But even the fine point on this is fairly thick. So I'm going to try the O1. Try to make this line. You can use Lost and Found edges. You can use a dashed line here and there. You can actually break the line so that it's sort of disappears in spots. Term this great new. Try to make this top one very thin and very light. But see how it's not. You can tell on the video it's not really a smooth line. It doesn't have to be a smooth line. You can vary it. It makes it more interesting rather than having the same way lying all the way around your figure. I'm going to try to make it very light. I'm gonna skip it right there. I'm not even gonna have a line right there. Skip it. Here. Maybe come in with a thicker line. For variation. Here, you're gonna see that body through those wings a little bit there. Here. The wings are blurry when there are flights. So maybe a you don't have to do all of the lines just sort of indicate little bit of that wing. If you can get used the angle of your hand to draw this wing, can use the curve a little longer. As I've mentioned before, hummingbirds are all individuals and you don't have to worry too much about proportions because they vary so much. Don't be afraid to change the position or the length, the length of the body, the width of the body in relation to the head. All those things vary greatly with hummingbirds. And there's also so many different kinds of hummingbirds here with the wing, this part comes in front of the body. The feathers that are near the body are perpendicular to the top of that wing. But as they come up, they fan out. And then I usually with my hummingbirds, I'll do some kind of action line here to show the movement. Say, make it look like it's in flight. And the beak like this. It's good to start the beat kind of thin and then if you need to, you can always go in and thicken it up a little bit. A little bit towards the front of center. 6. Lettering: One thing that I did want to show you today is that you can do lettering in your journal pretty easily and I added a page of hand lettering. And how you would do that? How do I go about that is usually usually I do it afterwards, but I'm gonna go ahead and show it to you now. I'm gonna say they'll follow this line here. Just draw a line and then another line close to it. You can practice this hand lettering on a piece of graph paper works really well. I'm gonna say enjoy. These are just block letters and they have no letters that go above or below the line. I'm just gonna say Enjoy. When you have a T or a couple of repeat letters, you can just join them together. You don't have to leave a big space. Little things. It's just basically all uppercase letters. They're just done in a block style. They don't come above or below the line. I'm gonna go ahead and use this micron pen. This could be a little bit thicker. This way I can erase everything all at once. If you have nice handwriting, you could just hand write it you want to. But this is a nice way. If you're doing a journal, say you're traveling and you want to put the name of the place. Or if you have something in my little notes, you can just write them in with these block letters and add some interests to your journal entry. And it gives you a little bit more variety to your pieces. Would just be like that. And you can add little embellishments to do a few doodles or whatever. Then I just take my kneaded eraser and just erase my pencil line. I might come back after I put watercolor on this thick and some of my lines add some more lines. There's no set in stone formula for this. But I find I like to put the ink on before the watercolor. You wouldn't have to. But the thing is, then your pencil lines are gonna be set on your paper. You're not gonna be able to erase them if you do the watercolor before you do your ink work. But that's enough for now. No, I'm gonna get my watercolors ready. 7. Planning: I spread my paints, but they're drying up pretty quickly. I'm going to do that again. Now I'm going to be playing with some different techniques. With the watercolor too. You could actually just do a sketch like this and then do random patches of color behind the hummingbird that wouldn't have to follow your line or anything. Not paying attention to the borders of your drawing. I like to do my colors sort of out of register anyway. I think it makes it look more spontaneous and more playful. And that's what I'm going for my sketches. The last thing I want my sketches to be as tight and look too formal. I want it to be a very informal looking piece. To use these aqua brushes, all you need to do is squeeze them a little bit to get some of the water out. I'm just making sure that they're clean first. So you can do it either way. You can do your background first or you could do your failure first. I think today I'm gonna go ahead and do my background first. But a male warmer colors come forward and cool colors recede. But you don't have to get that complicated with it. In a sketch. You can experiment with your sketches. You can try different color combinations. You could do the same drawing or sketch and try it several different ways, like I basically did here. This is the same exact posts that we're doing here. And I tried it with some different colors. I also just tried it just in pencil. So don't be afraid to experiment with your colors and with your techniques. I think what I'm gonna do is background first and I'm just coming in here, I'm squeezing my brush to get some water. I don't omit. We'll put some water down on my paper. I'm going to go right over the wings here because those, that part is going to be translucent. Coming right over the beak. I'm gonna make a grayish color. Taking some blue. Gonna take a little orange. Blue and orange are compliments. They're going to grade each other out. I used one brush for the orange and one brush for the blue. If I only had one brush, I would have to clean my brush before I dipped it into the other color. So I'm just gonna take a little bit of that blue there is blue on my brush and add it to this orange. Now if I was to add orange to the blue because it's the lighter color, I would have to add a whole lot of that orange to make a gray to that blue. But since the blue is a darker color, I only need to add a little bit. I only added what was on the brush already. It's kind of a greenish gray, which I like because that's okay. But if I wanted to make that grayer, maybe what I'll do is I'll have two different grays. Here's a greenish gray. I can come in here with my orange brush and because it's very similar to red, I can just put a little bit of red on it and add that over here. See what happens now that's too much red. I have a pink and green. I need to add some more blue. Now let's kind of go in purple. Now I have sort of a brown, brown, and green. I'm going to add some more blue. Some more orange or red. Little bit. Still warm, very warm. Blue. That's where the color I was going for, just a sort of a purplish gray. Right now. I'm going to use that. None. I'm going to come over here to this blue. What two different colors of gray? I don't want I don't really care what they are, but I would like to different colors so that I can mix them on the paper. Just a little bit of that orangeish color. They look pretty close, don't they? Add a little green to that? I have a greenish gray, purplish gray, and we're just gonna go with fat. 8. Background: Looking at my paper in the light, I see it's pretty dry. Brush. Dirty it up. All my brushes. Brush. Display, squeezing it on my paper towel. Come back in here and re-wet some of this. I want some hard lines. I want some soft lines where it's wet, it's going to be soft and where it's dry, it's gonna be harder. Come in with this greenish color first. All the time I'm thinking variation. I want variety in color and shape. I want, I want as much variety as I can think of. I also want to reserve some of my whitespace. Coming in with my bluish gray color, purplish gray, where it is. Even going to splatter a little bit. Take my paper towel and protect some of the areas that I don't want splatter. I didn't cover up this because I can just come back and blot it off. That should come right off. Just a little damp little water on my paper towel. Just take that off. I'm just going to let that dry a little bit. You can actually make it look like splatter if you wanted to come in and add a little bit of dots with your brush. Like here, I don't like the way that color is only on one side of the beak. So I'm going to come in with a little bit more value and bring it through. You don't want to stop things in a spot that isn't to your advantage. I want to lighten up some of these areas. You can come in with a paper towel while it's still damp. If I did this right away, when I first put the color down, it would almost remove all of it. But I've let it sit for a while now and it's actually soaked into the fibers of the paper. Got to clean my brushes. I'm coming in and just with the paper towel just squeezing. Now if you're working at home like this, you can actually have a container of water and that will help you clean your brushes faster. You can just dip your brush into your container of water. Swish it around the way you would with a normal brush. And I'm going to clean up my palette here. 9. Painting the Bird: I'm gonna go ahead and add some yellow highlights to this hummingbird. Taking some yellow ocher color. They don't want it to be real bright. I don't think maybe I do. Taking some yellow ocher and some of this cadmium yellow, just very bright. I have a couple of different colors of yellow here. I'm going to use my other brush and pick up a couple of different colors of green. I have more than I have this olivine type green. And then I have a real bright green here. I'm going to get both of those greens. It's real bright one. Almost got it. So bright. Olivine color. Then, just because I loved the color. I'm going to take some turquoise. Just have to try to be playful with it. Doesn't have to be a field studying like an Audubon study. I have a couple of different colors of yellow. I've got a couple of different colors of green, and I've got some turquoise. But you can make your hummingbird any color you want. I'm gonna come in here with some of this yellow. And some of us should be fairly wet yet damp anyway, it's not completely wet. I took some of that bright yellow and then I'm gonna come in with some of that yellow ocher, which is a little bit more of a brownish yellow. Then I'm gonna come in here, clean my brush. So I just had more clean water. And I said my light's coming from the upper left, so that means the top of the bird here is going to be lighter. So I'm gonna go ahead and use that yellowish color here, the top bird here. And now I'm going to add some green into this wing here. Come back with my yellow and blend it in a few spots. Try to leave some whitespace. Green, I think I'm going to use this yellow brush. Just pick up some green with my yellow brush and add some indication of some feathers here. Just some little dots here. Appear. Darker strokes. For the wings. This is gonna be in shadow. So I'm going to bring in this turquoise color that I have underneath the blend that a little bit little bit more green, greenish blue. 10. Final Details: I want to incorporate some of that color into the outside area. I'm going to clean my brush a little bit. Cleaning it, just dabbing it on my paper towel, coming back and picking up some of that yellow ocher color. Whatever you do to one part of the painting, make sure that you mirror it or repeat it in different parts of the painting. When you see a painting that seems this united, it's usually because they have one color appear one color down here, something else over here, and they have it carried it through the entire piece. It's always good to repeat. I tell this story all the time about when I took the tone couch workshop and he said, if you had 30 people in a room and everybody tour, they're painting into four equal parts and threw them into a pile. You should be able to pick out your pieces from that pile of 120 pieces. Because you should repeat your colors throughout your piece. I don't really have to put the green in two. Because if I was to tear this in four parts, I think I've got pretty much all the colors throughout, but I'm just trying to make a point here. Now. Also, I don't want all my dots, all my patches of color, the same size, the same shape. Its variety. Variety is what makes your piece interesting. Very everything that you can think of. The only thing really left to do as the eye. Now I could come in with some brown watercolor or I could just fill that in with my pen. I'm going to put a little dot of that blue in there too. Blues, kind of bright and it looks like a reflection in the eye. I'm going to add a few of these little dots to just around the piece. Don't space them out like polka dots. Cluster them, put two or three together, and then two or three somewhere else. One could be big, one could be small. I wish I hadn't gotten rid of all my background color because I like to put a little bit of background color down in here. Take some blue and a little bit of orange. Maybe not the same exact color, but just wanted to outline that channel just a little bit there. I'm just coming back in with some water and softening that. Maybe a little more blue into that. I'm going to come in with a little bit of brown like this burnt sienna color right here. Just a tiny little bit of brown in the eye. And I can just come in with the pen. This is the pilot twin marker and it has a thick and thin and I'm using the thicker end right now. But as I get up into the small part here, switch to the pointer end. So now I have to decide if I want to add some more line work. I think under here where it's in shadow. I'd like to thicken up some of that line to make it look a little bit more like it's in shadow. I'm not connecting all my lines, leaving it sketchy, looking, trying to be playful with it. I'm not trying to connect all the dots. I find that when you leave some things to the viewer's imagination, they get more involved in the piece and come back. You want to remove some of the pigment? Appear. If I wanted to blur these wings out a little bit more, I can just come in with some water. Just remove a little bit of that. Look like it's blending into the background a little bit more. I try to stay loose with it. I tend to want to tighten up so it's more of a challenge for me to stay loose with it. 11. Closing Thoughts: Repeat the same drawing as many times as you can, because it takes 12 to 20 repetitions to become proficient at something. Just think how a musician or an athlete practices the same movement over and over. Do the same sketch, but reverse it, change the colors or line work. How you make your marks and use color. We'll define your style and set you apart visually. Experiment with curved and angular lines, varying the width, length, and texture. Play with your colors, edges, intensity, temperature, contrast, and value. I like to work in series and examine the things in nature that I love. Working in a series will accelerate your artistic growth. Exploring your interests as a basis for your artwork will help give your artwork a specific direction and focus. This will allow you to use your voice as an artist to develop your own style. Searching, exploring, and refining variations of the same theme uncovers hidden nuances with layers of possibilities. Do quicker pieces. Instead of obsessing over getting something perfect. Try taking 30 or fewer seconds to draw gestures. Aim to get the underlying form an idea of your subject matter rather than drawing the minute details. Thank you so much for joining me here. I hope you enjoyed this demonstration. I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do with it. I hope you find inspiration and creativity and making mistakes to be your good friends. Happy creating everyone. Thanks again. In bye-bye.