Procreate: from Sketchbook to Digital Art | Lara Militaru | Skillshare

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Procreate: from Sketchbook to Digital Art

teacher avatar Lara Militaru, Digital Illustrator & Coach

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro

      1:09

    • 2.

      Preparing the iPad

      1:46

    • 3.

      Using Procreate

      8:27

    • 4.

      Brushes

      9:06

    • 5.

      Start sketching

      3:01

    • 6.

      Importing pictures

      0:52

    • 7.

      Lineart

      4:17

    • 8.

      Easy coloring

      9:23

    • 9.

      Shading

      12:37

    • 10.

      Lighting

      6:38

    • 11.

      Adjustments

      7:33

    • 12.

      Project

      1:06

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About This Class

Are you an artist looking to switch from traditional to digital art? Maybe you have a new iPad that you bought wanting t test your creativity on it? 

This class will help you jumpstart your creative process on the iPad in the easiest way possible!

What you’ll get out of this class:

  • Easiest way to start drawing on an iPad
  • How to make use of your traditional art skills in a digital medium
  • Free brushes for Procreate
  • Intro to Procreate's interface
  • Easy coloring methods
  • Shading & Lighting
  • Adjustments workflow

Who this class is for:

  • Beginner digital artists
  • Traditional artists switching to digital art
  • New iPad owners who want to learn Procreate

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Lara Militaru

Digital Illustrator & Coach

Teacher

Hey! I'm Lara, an illustrator and anime-inspired artist who teaches drawing in a way that actually makes sense.
Whether you struggle with anatomy, poses, or making your characters feel alive -- I'm here to break it down step by step.

My classes are beginner-friendly, reference-packed, and designed to help you draw with confidence and flow.

Let's make your sketchbook your favorite place to be. ?

Quick bits:

5800+ students have taken my courses on Skillshare.

When I'm not teaching, I'm sketching characters, watching anime, creating merch for Artist Alleys and drinking coffee.

Start with the Character Design Crash Course for fast growth!

Let's connect:

Instagram (30k) https://www.instagram.com/lara_artescape/

TikTok... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Intro: You landed on this course. It most likely means that you have a new ipad. Congratulations, by the way that you want to get creative with it, but don't know where to start. Well, you landed on the perfect course. Because this course is made for the traditional artists who are going digital. But need to learn the ABC of procreate, the best digital art software for any ipad. By the end of this class, you will not only learn the most important things in procreate, but I will also guide you step by step towards creating your first digital illustration with as much ease as possible. All you need to get started is a charged ipad, an apple pencil, and one of your old sketch books, because we will take inspiration from that. Hi, Hello, I'm Lara. I'm a digital artist and a children's books illustration. With over six years of experience in creating professional work in procreate, you can find me on Instagram, at Lara, underscore Artistcape. And I would love it if you tag me on your stories. So I know that you are watching this course. You can also tag me if you're post your art inspired by any of my courses. And I will definitely give you a boost. Okay, let's not waste any more time and jump into the actual class. I will see you in the first lesson. 2. Preparing the iPad: Hello and welcome to the first lesson of this class. I'm sure that if you are watching this course, you probably have a new ipad. And that in itself is so exciting. I would love to see or know which tablet you have. So feel free to mention the model or post a picture of it in the discussions below. But I also know a secondary feeling after such a big purchase like this. You probably don't even know how to start to use it. And you start feeling guilty about the pricey purchase that you just made. Been there, and I've done that and I've got a shirt. No worries. It's actually a psychological feeling called the buyer's remorse. If this is your first ipad and you got it because you want to start tapping into your creativity, the good news is that there's a lot of opportunities to do that. The bad news, however, is that you don't know what you don't know. And I'm here to help you to get to know your ipad and what it can do for you from a creative standpoint. I promise that once you realize the potential of your device, you won't want to stop creating. I don't want to overwhelm you. So we will take it step by step. It's easy to follow and no one is rushing you. Take your time and learn everything you need to simply enjoy the process of creating in a different medium from what you are used to. You need to get started is obviously an ipad, which I assume you already have if you are watching this an Apple pencil. Otherwise it will be pretty difficult to control your strokes and procreate, which is the best app for drawing on an ipad. You can find and download it in the app store. It's only 12, 99. It's a one time purchase. And you get all the updates for free whenever they happen. After you finish installing procreate, I will see you on the next lesson, so we can get started with it. 3. Using Procreate: Come back to this course. In the last lesson, we got the Procreate app from the app store. Hopefully we have our tablets and pencils charged. It's time to get started. In order to use procreate for the first time, you will first have to learn how to navigate the interface. If this is your first ever drawing software, you might not know where to look or what to look for. In this lesson, we will cover a few basic things. You will need to know how to create a new canvas, setting the dimensions, the resolution, choosing the color profile. And I will show you the menus, the brushes, and the layer menu. Let's get started. Let's take a first look inside the app. When you first open it, you will have some default artworks that come with the app after you use it for a while, you will have lots of artworks to scroll through. Up here on the right side, we have a few buttons that help us organize our files. Right now, you don't really need any of these since you don't have any artwork of your own. But what you do need is this plus button here. Whenever we want to create a new canvas, we will tap on this plus icon here and the menu will pop up. This is where you can choose from pre existing canvas formats or from recent canvas formats that you have used. Again, this is your first time using the app, so you will only have the recommended default sizes like square four, k four, and so on. You can see that each canvas has the dimensions mentioned and another information like P three, SRGB CMYK. I will explain what those are shortly. Now let's make our canvas from scratch so you can see everything there is to choose. When opening a new canvas, tap on this icon on the top right corner next to the new canvas. Next to new canvas. Our screen will now change and prompt us to choose the basic info about our canvas respectively what size we want it. If I'm just drawing for myself, I usually go for 3,000 by 4,000 pixels. You can see that next to your number pad on the left. You can change the unit that you want to print your canvas in. You can use whatever is more comfortable to you, and of course, if you know you will want to print your art, it's easiest to go for an inch or centimeter unit. Pixels are more for artworks that you intend to keep on line. By the way, if you want to post on Instagram, the dimensions for a portrait size are 3,250 by 4,050 pixels. Okay, so we have our dimensions. Let's also choose the DPI. Dpi stands for dots per inch, and the more DPI you have, the better quality your artwork will be. Generally, a DPI of 300 will be more than enough for artworks to post online or that you want to print. Now, depending on your ipad model and on the size that you want to make and the DPI that you select, the layers number will change. That means this is the most that procreate and the ipad can do for you with the type of tablet that you have. Now let's go to the color profile. You see that you can choose between RGB and CMYK. Rgb stands for red, green, and blue. And it's the color profile that allows you to have more vibrant colors that can be seen really well on screens. If you want to keep your art digital and not to print it, this is the profile to go for. However, if you want to print, you will need to use CMYK, which stands for C and magenta, yellow and black. And this is the color profile that printers know how to read. If you make an artwork in RGB and decide to print it, you might be surprised by how your colors are dulled on paper and how a lot of detail can be lost. Depending on what you want to do with your art, choose one of the two color profiles and stick to the first option in the list below. I will stick to RGB for this course, since we will only use our drawing on screen that we worked hard on building a canvas. Let's create a template out of it so we will be able to access it fast. The next time we want to create an artwork, tap on untitled canvas and give it a name. I will call my Skill Share canvas, then tap on Create. This is our canvas. If you have used smartphones before, you should already be familiar with the hand motion of pinching and dragging around with your fingers. This is also how you zoom in and out of your canvas. Two fingers on the screen, tap and play around with it. Now let's start exploring the menu on the left. The first one is the Actions menu, which also has a few sub menus. Below on Add, you can find all the basics like inserting a file, ora photo, adding text cut, copy, copy canvas and paste. I think they are all self explanatory and we will end up using some of them later on, so no need to go into too much detail now. Then we have canvas where you can find various settings related to your canvas, such as cropping and resizing, flipping horizontally or vertically. Reference and some assist modes and guide options won't be using the assisted versions in this course, but I will be making another one that will cover everything you need to know about all of these functions. Moving on to the sharing submenu. This is where you will go when you will want to export your final artwork. To export it, you will choose one of the options from Share Image. I mostly recommend you save your artworks as PNG's if you want to share them online. That way they will be bigger files, but the details will show better on PNG's rather than Jpeg. One great thing is that you can also save your artwork as a Photoshop file, as a PSD, in case you want to send it to a client or a merchant who will need to see all your layers. But they might not be using procreate. They will, however, be able to open it in Photoshop. All right, then we have the video sub menu. This is where you can come back to see your time lapse or export it as long as you have the toggle button turned on. Then you have the Preferences sub menu, where you can change the aspect of your workspace from light to dark. I personally prefer the light version. You can change to a right hand interface, and this menu will move on the other side. I like to keep my brush cursor visible so I can see how big the brush is compared to the canvas. You can see here what it's like with and without the brush cursor visible. Ultimately, it's up to you, but I find it easier to have it turned on. You also have all the gesture controls here, but I personally never really touched these settings. Okay, moving on to the adjustments menu. This is where we will come later in the drawing process. This is where we will adjust colors or add various effects. The Liquefy option towards the end of the menu is one that I use often even during the sketching process. Next is the lasso tool, we will use this in the next few lessons. It basically allows you to select areas of your layer so you can do different stuff with it. You can select things on the canvas manually with the free hand option or in a rectangle or ellipse shapes, I use the free hand the most, but we will exemplify later. The last option on the menu here is the selection tool. Which won't work for now because our canvas is empty. Let me scribble something really fast so I can show you. Okay, so you can see that it now selected my whole scribble, which I can resize fit to canvas and so on. Let's reset. This is how our layers menu looks. You have a background color always, which I tend not to touch. Maybe at most, I will hide it at the end. Then we have the layer that we just drew on that has the pink scribble on it. Okay, now let's undo so we can have the fresh canvas again. In the next lesson, I will show you the brushes that you get for free from procreate and how to use them. I will see you soon. 4. Brushes: Welcome back. The last lesson was very technical. I know for anyone who never touched procreate or any drawing software in general. But in this lesson, we will start making our mark on the canvas. Now in order to do that, we will start using brushes. Unlike other softwares, procreate does not shy away from giving you for free tons of good brushes, which is great, but I know it can be overwhelming. In the beginning, I used to spend hours trying to find a brush that I could feel comfortable with. Again, comfortable, not the brush that does everything for me as a beginner who watches may be reels and shorts of artists and their drawing processes. You might be tempted to believe that you only need those really good brushes to really get good. As an artist, that finding them is the real quest. It is important to find brushes you are comfortable with. But before you end up downloading 100 brushts from the Internet, let me tell you that the best brushes are the simple ones. Most of the time, I use one sketch brush, one line art brush, and one round brush to color and render. Very rarely will I use texture brushes or the kind of brushes that make flowers, leaves, trees, and whatnot. I'd rather draw everything myself most of the time. I will show you which appropriate standard brushes you can use at first so that you don't have to try them all out and shorten the time before you create your first artwork. Then if you want to buy some really good brushes, I will recommend a few in the next few lessons of the course. Of course, you can download for free my own essential brush set, which you will find in the resources section. Okay, so as I said, let's make four categories of brushes and test out a few of them to get you started. We will have sketch brushes, liner brushes, coloring brushes, and others. Let's start with the sketch. Brushes procreate, literally has a sketch section where you can find some really good brushes. A fan favorite is the six B pencil brush, which imitates really well the texture of a real six B pencil. Let me adjust the size of the brush and here's what it looks like. See, it's very granular and you can almost fell the texture as if it were a pencil. And speaking of which, procreate has a really awesome feature. If you use the apple pencil, just like real drawing, you can get different textures depending on how you hold a pencil. Drawing with a tip will get you this, but drawing with the side will get you this. I found it really cool when I was starting out, even if I never really get to use this awesome picture in my current workflow, but knowing it's there is great in case I just want to sketch away some day. Now let's try the HB pencil, which is lighter in both density and texture. Let's also try it on the side. Now let's try the Narinder pencil, which I think I like the most so far, it somehow feels creamy when using it. Now, another sketching brush you can use is the one that I offer for free, which is lighter and softer. It doesn't have as much texture as the other ones, and it's easy to start creating big shapes and slowly add details with it. Let's move on to the line art brushes. There are a lot of line art brushes you can use from the default ones, you have an inking section and the calligraphy section that you can choose from. Let's test out a few from the inking section and see what we like more. As you can see, the linear brushes tend to be really sensitive depending on the pressure that you apply on the pencil. Which is good because line art needs to be precise and needs variation and line weight. But don't worry, we have a dedicated lesson for that. Okay, we tested a few brushes from the inking section. Now let's try calligraphy. I like the stabilization and precision from the calligraphy section more than I like the ones from the inking section. But let's choose a few brushes to add to the line art section. The first one is mono line, which I think is perfect for when you need a stable brush with no line weight and no texture. There are times when you might need one of these, I'm adding it to the list, then I want to add the chalk. One. I really like the texture and the stabilization level. If you want to create textured art, this will be perfect for you. Next is the shale brush, which has a similar stabilization as the chalk, but with a less texture. I also want to add a Gelsinki brush from the Inc section because this is what a lot of Inc artists use with real tools. It's a bit difficult to master, but it's a really good brush. Finally, my own line art brush, which I always, always used to create my line arts, the one that you can download for free from my essentials package. It is a creamy brush with great stabilization and only a bit of texture. Now for the coloring part, coloring is usually done with large brushes. I will start with a round brush with a bit of opacity variation. That means that the harder you press, the more opaque it is. We can compare it with a hard blend like this that has less variation in opacity. As you can see, if you want a texture brush, I highly recommend a damp brush. I used it a lot when I wanted a more painterly look in my drawings. Now from my own brush set, there are two brushes that I offer for coloring and, or rendering art. One is like this with opacity variation and a bit of texture. The other one has less opacity variation and less texture. You can find both of them in my brush back. Now, to show you a few other brushes from pro grade that I occasionally use, depending on what I'm drawing. One of them is this square grid, which I sometimes use as simple background decor for my product packaging. Another one is this wood texture, which I sometimes use if I have a table that I need texture on or something like that, then this now texture is really nice as a detail on the background, not necessarily as snow but more like debris or stuff like that. The clouds brush is also nice for a quick, lazy background. This flare is really nice when you want to add a bit of shine to materials like metal in your art. If you want to watercolor effect, you can use this wash brush. It's not the best on water colors. Malen has the greatest watercolor brusht, if you want to try those out. I might even make a class on how to use them if you are interested. Okay. That wraps up brush testing. I will arrange this sheet to look a bit more aesthetic so you can download it from the resources section as well. Now that we have a few brushes at our disposal, let's get to the sketch part. 5. Start sketching: One thing that I remember so clearly, when I first got my ipad a few years ago, I was really worried that I spent a ton of money and that I wouldn't use it fully. Not because the tablet wasn't good, but I was so accustomed to drawing with a pencil on paper, I was becoming better at it with every new drawing. I was learning new tricks for myself the more I drew on paper, starting on a tablet, basically on a glossy slippery screen with a plastic pencil tip instead of a rough pencil, Everything would change and I would have to start from zero. Starting from zero is scary, especially when it feels like you are discarding a skill that you worked really hard on developing. However, I pushed myself to do it because I knew that traditional art had limitations. Especially for me for once, I had a limited desk space for all the different supplies. Two, it was money. Believe it or not, it hurts a lot more on the long run to keep spending money on a lot of different art supplies, especially when you want to buy good quality materials. By comparison, the ipad was a one time purchase that had everything integrated. Free coloring would be much easier on the tablet compared to traditional art. An four drawing full color that I would make in pencil would take me up to a month of drawing whenever I had the time for a few hours in a day. It was hard to start, took a lot of space, and then I wouldn't stop for a few hours only to cover a small part of the drawing with digital art. However, you have the whole color wheel at your disposal. You just need to learn to use it for me, the biggest issue when I started was getting to feel natural while sketching digitally. And I wasted a lot of time trying to do that. And I was getting frustrated really fast that it didn't feel natural to do it on a screen as opposed to doing it on paper. I could keep forcing myself to sketch digitally until I got better at it, but as someone who works a full time job, I don't have that much free time to draw. I decided I would rather go with what I felt rather than what I wanted and basically eliminate all roadblocks and find a solution to make digital drawing easy. Method was to start a sketch on paper, take a photo of it, and continue digitally. It's that easy. I knew that if I got to do that enough times, my hand would eventually learn to adapt to a new medium while working with a style that I already had developed. It's muscle memory after all. Nothing more, and nothing less. If you are already drawing or sketching quite often on your sketchbook or on paper, you should have no problem training yourself to do the same on a tablet, but do it smart. For this lesson, I will take a look in my sketchbook and see what inspires me from what I have already drawn. I will probably go with this nice lady that I sketched quite a while ago. Now all that's left to do is take a picture of this with my phone or tablet and have it ready on my ipad photo library on your side. If you would like to start a new sketch or use one of your older ones, it's absolutely up to you. Just make sure you have a photo ready for the next lesson. 6. Importing pictures: Last lesson we took a photo of our sketch, and now we can start the real work and import it in procreate. We already have our canvas ready. Let's just go to this menu here. We will choose Import. And we will have to allow procreate to access our photos and then just tap on our earlier photo to import it. It will automatically fit to your canvas as long as the imported photo is at least as big as your canvas. Now you can resize the photo to your liking so that your drawing will take as much of the space as you needed to. Once you are done with that, I will see you on the next lesson where we will start drumming. 7. Lineart: In the last lesson, we decided upon a traditional sketch that we took a photo of and imported them procreate. Now let's get started with the drawing process. First, I need to explain layers because we will start using them. Layers can be found in this menu here. You'll always have, by default, a background color layer which will be white when you open the canvas, but you can change it as you wish. Aside from the background layer, you also get another empty layer by default. When you open a canvas, if you want to open new layers, you tap on this button here. Layers are used for keeping different elements separate. The best example is keeping the line art that we will draw now separate from the imported sketch. That way you will be able to hide your sketch layer after you finish tracing the line art afterwards, all the coloring will also be done on different layers if you want to erase some of the color field, but you don't want to affect the line art, keeping them separate will make it easier. Now let's try this out. Let's make a new layer above the imported sketch photo. We want this layer to be above the photo so we can see it. Just as if you would try to trace on a tracing paper. In real life, you keep it above your reference picture. Now let's talk about adjusting a layer, starting with the opacity. If you want to have a layer fully visible, the opacity over here should be 100% But we want to trace the lines on a new layer. So we need the sketch to be a bit less visible. To do that, we will play around with the opacity like this. Now we have our sketch photo at a lower opacity. It's time to choose a brush for the line art. I will use the brush that I provide in this course as well. You can find it in the resources section. Now let's try out to see if the size is good enough. Now let's make sure we selected the empty layer that we will start drawing on. You wouldn't want to draw on the sketch layer and realize that you have to start all over on the correct layer. Let's zoom in. I'd like to start by drawing the face. It will take a few strokes for you to feel comfortable with drawing longer lines without interrupting the motion. The less interrupted lines you have, the better it will look. I will start with the face line and then continue with the hair. Let's see what it looks like so far. To do that, we can hide the sketch layer by toggling this sketch layer off. You might feel like the line art, you feels a bit odd compared to the one on paper. What I like to do to make my line art is to add a bit more boldness around the line intersections and have a few thinner lines. In some places this is called bearing your line weight. After you finish drawing the line art and varying your line weight, it should look a little something like this. The process of getting used to drawing on the tablet may involve a few more exercises. But they are easy to follow and you get to enjoy the results. So it's worth investing some time into it. Once you are done with your line art, we will continue with the coloring. I will see you on the next lesson. 8. Easy coloring: All right guys. We now have our first line art made in procreate. We can pat ourselves on the back and reward ourselves with a coffee or tea. We could stop drawing or we could keep drawing and actually have a finished illustration by the end of this course. If you are with me on this one, grab your beverage and let's get back to creating. Remember how I explained in the previous lesson that you would want to keep your layers separate. This is what we are going to do now. We will basically create one layer for each base color. If we decide we want to change, let's say only the hair color later on, we can only work with that hair layer. For this course, I will actually try to name my layer so it will be easier for me to return exactly where I need to. Later on, I will show you the most basic coloring method that I know. It's actually the one that I was using when I first started doing digital art. Let's start by coloring the skin. We will now make a new layer underneath the line art. The sketch layer is completely hidden by now, we won't need it anymore. All the layers with colors will be placed beneath the line art layer because we want to be able to see the conor and not cover it with color. You can rename the layer like this. Just tap on the layer name and the menu will pop up. On the left, you can see that the rename is the first option. Tap on that and just type skin. Now let's select the color for the skin. We will go on the top right corner and tap on the colored circle. By default, I believe procreate shows you the color wheel as a disc with swatches for palettes underneath. But I personally like to use the classic view of a square. And the bars for hue saturation and brightness below. On the hue bar, you can basically select the color range you want to be in. And then play around on the big square and choose your desired color. If you feel like your selected color is too muted, you can make it more vibrant with the saturation bar and move the toggle more to the right. You will see on the big square how the cursor is also moving along to the right to choose a more saturated color. And then there is brightness, where you can play around with how light or dark you want your color to be. Of course, you can choose every color manually, directly on the color wheel or on the color square. But you will end up hearing often about hue saturation and brightness. So I wanted to explain what they are. For a light skin, I usually like to go in between the orange and red hues and select a color from somewhere up here. Now, in order to fill the drawing with color, we can do it in three ways. One is more manual and time consuming. That is to select a hard round brush, adjust the size, and to start coloring as if we had a regular coloring book. The problem with this method is that you would have to adjust your brush size many times if you have a lot of fine details and waste time on erasing in case you went outside the condor. I personally like this method the least. The second method is the dragon drop method. Let me exemplify on a different canvas altogether, I will use a hard round brush and draw the counter of a circle. It's very important to close the shape and make sure that your counter is solid if you want a perfect circle after you close the shape, just keep tapping on the screen. And you will see that you will have this menu up here. Tap on it and select Circle. Procreate will automatically adjust the shape for you. Now that we have our shape closed, you can go to the top right corner. Tap and hold on the color circle. And drag it all the way inside the shape dragon drop. It automatically fills in the shape you drew. It saves a lot of time. Now let's see what happens if we don't close the shape. Now let's drag and drop. You see the color spills all around the canvas in order to one deal. Tap the screen once with two fingers. Okay, let's use this method on our drawing. I will make a contour around the face first. And when I'm done I will simply drag and drop the color. For this, I use the mono line that we have previously seen in a different lesson. See way faster than the first method. The first method is even faster in my opinion, and it's the one I use the most. We will use the lasso tool, which we can find here. We will select the free form lasso. Now we will select the area that we want to work on slowly but surely, until we close the shape. But before closing the shape, tap on this button here that will automatically fill your shape with color once you close the selection. This method saves a lot of time and has the least chances of errors. Pretty much any program has a lasso tool, but procreate is doing it better because you can take your pen off the screen without the shape closing itself. When you do that, that's what Photoshop does. In Photoshop, you would have to cover the whole shape in one motion. And of course, it will be hard and wobbly. And you will have to refine it a few times until it's perfect. Okay, so I will now use the first method to fill in the rest of the colors, each one on a different layer. I will speed it up so you won't get bored. Now that we have all of our colors laid down, let me show you the benefit of having everything on different layers. Let's say we don't want the hair to be discolor and we want to change it. If everything was on one layer, we would have to select a hair shape again and redo the coloring. But since we have it on a separate layer, we can simply choose another color and drag and drop it over what we already have took 5 seconds. Another thing we can do is apply a gradient. For this, we will learn what an alpha lock is. Tap on this hair layer, and you can find alpha lock over here activated. What this does is that it locks the pixels on this layer, so you can only modify them. Let me show you. We will grab a lighter color and draw over the lower part of the shape and see it only color the shape of the hair and not outside of it. Although my brush is big. Great. Now we learned a lot of new things that will help us with the basic coloring process and it will help us do it fast as well. In the next lesson, we will start shading. 9. Shading: All right guys. In the last lesson, we learned three different ways of coloring or drawing. Now that we have all the base colors down, it's time to add some depth with some shading. There are many ways you can add shading, and depending on the style you will like to go for, you might simplify what I teach you or even make it more complex. In this lesson, I will show you how to do a combination of soft and hard shading. But let me first explain what teach one means. Soft shading is the kind of light gradient shading that you can do with a semi transparent brush or by blending in the shading color. I don't recommend using an air brush for this because it looks unprofessional and you might be labeled quickly as a rookie. We want our illustrations to look good, even if we are beginners. The hard shading or cell shading, as you might hear it referenced, is the kind of shading that has really obvious edges. You can do that with a round brush and eraser to scalp your shading shape. Or with the lasso tool, similar to what we did in the coloring part. Okay, so those are the basic principles out of the way. Let's actually start drawing. Let's start with the skin shading. We will select the skin layer and tap on the plus icon to make a new layer above it. Let's tap on the layer and rename it to soft shading. Now let's select the color of the skin. To do that, you will use your finger tap and hold on the screen where you want to do the color picking. After you hold it for a short while, you will see the small icon here and a circle with two colors on it. On the upper part of the circle, it shows the color you are selecting. On the lower, it shows the color that you currently have selected. You can move your finger around the canvas while holding it down to choose whichever color you want. As I said, we will choose the skin color. The easy way to do the shading is to make use of layer modes. Next to every layer, you will find the letter N on the right of the layer name. If you tap on it, a new menu will drop below the layer's name, and you will see all sorts of new terms. These are layer modes. What these do is that they apply special effects to your current layer that will modify the colors you put onto it, depending on the colors that you have below it. Complicate, Let's make a test. Let's make a small mark on the character's face right here. You won't see anything right now because we have used the exact same skin color as the layer below the N that you see on the layer shows that your layer is a normal mode. Let's step on the N and choose another layer mode. Let's choose multiply. This is the layer mode most frequently used for creating shadows. You can see why, because now the mark we made before is darker than the skin color. Let's see what happens if we go on another layer mode. Let's go to Color Dodge. The color is now weight lighter than what we had before. Color, Dodge, Ad and Overlay are the main modes that we will use for lighting, but we will get there in the next lesson. Let's go back to multiply and leave it like that. We can change the color if you feel like it's too intense and we can make it lighter or more desaturated. Or we can even change the hue to give a warmer impression or a cooler one. If we go towards the blues, I usually tend to make my shading colors a bit desaturated. Great, now we have our shading color and we just have to establish where our light source is so that we can shade on the other side, I will consider the upper left side, my light source. We will go on the right side of the face with the shading. Let's adjust the size of the brush and cover the area of the face that will be in the shade. You see how my shading is going outside the edges. That's a really simple fix for this so that we won't have to waste time erasing. And that is to make our shading layer a clipping mask tap on the layer. And on the menu that appears on the left select Clipping Mask. Now everything that we drew before is clipped on the layer below respectively on the base layer. This will allow us not to worry about going outside the edges. From now on, we will make all of our shading layers as clipping masks. Great. Now all we have to do is blend it nicely. To do that, we will use the smush tool that we can find between the brush tool and the razor tool appropriate has the best mush tool that I know from any fromming software that I tried. Let's select a round brush for this and start blending our shading until it feels like a soft gradient. I will do this from the edge of the shading and go outside the shape. It takes a bit of practice to get a feeling for it. So feel free to take your time to exercise. Okay, now we will do the same for all the other layers as well. I will speed up the process a bit while you keep exercising and I will talk to you soon. Now we have the soft shading finish so we can start working on the heart shading. Let's make a new layer above the skin's soft shading and we will also make it as a clipping mask. Let's choose an even darker color now with the heart shading, we will try to add more depth with an even darker shadow. Also, we will be using the last, but we will deactivate the color option so we can fill it in manually and control the opacity of the shade. Let's start with ovia, dark places like under the hair and under the neck. We will make the shape of the shadow with the lasso tool and then use a soft motion of the hand to cover the shape. I'd like to control the intensity of this shading manually in case I want to press harder in darker areas and keep it lighter in other areas. After a few selections, we should have something that looks like this. This is the fully shaded skin area. Now let's do the same for the rest. I will speed up a bit and talk to you again soon. Oh, great. Now we have everything shaded. Our drawing looks great so far, but it still needs more. And for that, we will learn how to do lighting in the next lesson. I will see you there. 10. Lighting: The last lesson, we finished doing the shading. Now the next step would be lighting. However, we will do a little refinement. First, let's select our line art layer and set it to alpha lock. We will change the line art color to the most immediate color in each area or slightly darker. This gives off a beautiful, almost finished look. Let's do that first, and then we will start working on the lighting. Now that we did that, let's group everything together To do that, we will take each layer and drag it to the right. This allows us to select multiple layers at once. Then we tap on group. Now we have everything in a folder if you want. That's actually what they are called in Photoshop, but in procreate they are called groups. This makes it easier to manipulate more of them. Now we will drag the group to the left and duplicate, so we can keep a copy of the original layers in case we need to get back to them. Then we will tap on the new group's name on the menu that pops up on the left. We will tap on Flatten. If your ipad could not duplicate the group first because it got an error of number of layers exceeded, then you can flatten it directly. What flatten does is that now you have all the layers merged into one. It's easier to work with it like this when we do the lighting. Now let's make a copy of the merged layer by duplicating it. And then create a new layer above it and activate clipping mask. Let's also select these two layers by dragging them to the right and grouping them together. We will start working more organized. Now let's set a new layer to color Dodge Mode. We will start by creating a large light on the left side of our character where the light source is coming from. Then we will add more details every here and there respecting the direction of the light. In order for your color Dodge layer to show some color, the color you choose on the wheel should be quite dark. If I choose a dark yellow, the result on the color Dodge layer will be a really bright one. Let's test it out. Let's continue using this color on color. Dodge Mode, just like with a shading part, lighting should also be a combination of soft and hard shading. Now we will make some selections and fill them in with a lighter color, make a separate layer, clip it to the base, put the new layer on color dodge, and let's make selections. I didn't mention this before and I don't know if you noticed, but I'm trying to make my selections to follow the shape that it's on for hair. Let's say there will be long, slim shapes while on the clothes there will be bigger blobs selected. I will show you how it's done and then I will talk to you again. All right, so now the lighting part is pretty much done. Let's see our progress by hiding this group and seeing what we had done. Not bad. Now let's stplicate the group and flatten it so we have everything on one layer. Again, we are basically prepping our artwork for adjustments, which we will do in the next lesson. See you there. 11. Adjustments: Welcome back. In the previous lesson, we finished adding light to our illustration. Now it's time to do some adjustments. Let's start with the curves, which we can find in the adjustments menu. You should play around with this by dragging different points up and down and see how it affects your artwork. This tab here controls all the colors of your artwork. But if we go on the red tab that's below, it will influence mostly all the colors that have red in them. Similar for the other ones as well. I think I will go for this adjustment. Now let's do gradients. Duplicate your layer again, but this time twice. Now select the uppermost layer and then go to the Adjustments menu and tap on gradient maps. You see that when you choose any of these gradient maps, the whole illustration changes depending on the map you chose. This is why we made two duplicates, because the one affected by the gradient will have all the colors change. We will reduce its opacity and try different layer modes to see if we like how it affects our other duplicate. I went with this gradient at first, but I didn't like how it looked with any of the layer modes. So I will delete a whole layer. Now I will duplicate the one below again, and try with a different gradient map. Let's try this one and see if it works better. Okay, so far I like how it looks with a reduced topacity. Let's march it with the layer below and rename this layer according to our adjustment. Next we will add a few small highlights, especially in the hair and maybe somewhere around the clothes in the face. Duplicate the last layer, create a new layer above it. Select clipping mass, just like before, and put it on add mode this time. Now I will select my line art brush, choose a light color and add a few streaks of hair. The trick is to not add to many of these in order not to overwhelm our illustration with details. We can also add a few lines on the face, but we will blend them afterwards or partially erase them so as to not be too harsh on the skin. We will do the same on the clothes and try to vary our colors and see what happens. Good. Now we finished with the details. There's no point in doing too many of them. Now that we have made quite a few adjustments. Let's try doing curves again and see if we like the new version better, basically. In this adjustments part of the illustration, there's a lot of trial and error until we get to a point where you like what you are adjusting. Now finally, we will duplicate for the last time, create a new layer and clip it. Choose a big round brush and a really light color, close to white, but not exactly white. We can leave the layer mode to normal. Now go over the left side of your illustration without pressing too hard. And we only want to powder some light on our illustration. Now I want some of the colors to be a bit more vibrant, especially the blues. So let's make a new layer. Clip it and put it on overlay mode. Then choose a bright blue. And go over the blue areas of the dress, see how it intensifies the blue underneath. Now let's go with a warm color over some of the parts of the hair. Look how nice it looks. The transition between light and the shadows looks really good. This is our final illustration. Thank you so much for sticking around. I really hope you learned valuable new information and that you will do your first illustration as well. More details on your project on the next lesson. 12. Project: You guys made it all the way to the end. And I'm so happy to see that. I hope the last part with the adjustments wasn't too overwhelming. But if it was, you can disregard it for your project. Your project after this class is to reproduce on your ipad a sketch that you made by hand. Follow the steps of the class, take a picture of your sketch, import it, and do all the fun stuff up until wherever you feel comfortable with your digital illustration. If that means it's after the base colors, then stop there If you want to do the shading, to do it you know best how far you want to go with it and I'm here to support you in getting started with your creative journey. I will ask you to post your final illustration in the project section because I would love to see what you made if you posted on social media. Make sure you tag me at Lara, underscore artist Cape on Instagram and I will give you a boost. Don't forget to get all your free materials from the resources section and start creating. Thank you for watching this course. There are many more in the making. I hope I will see you again. By guys.