Painting Landscapes for Beginners: How to Simplify a Reference Photo | Madeline Kerrii | Skillshare

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Painting Landscapes for Beginners: How to Simplify a Reference Photo

teacher avatar Madeline Kerrii, Watercolor Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      About the Class

      1:58

    • 2.

      Where to Find Reference Photos

      6:12

    • 3.

      How to Simplify a Reference Photo

      5:37

    • 4.

      Examples of Simplifying

      12:41

    • 5.

      How to Adapt Your Color Palette

      7:36

    • 6.

      Examples of Color Adaption

      10:47

    • 7.

      Your Class Project

      1:25

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About This Class

Class Overview: Do you feel like your creativity is limited to taking tutorials? Do you want to learn how to paint from reference photos but feel intimated or unsure how to simplify one? In this class, we will explore the art of simplifying landscape painting by breaking down a reference photo into its essential elements. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced artist, learning how to simplify a scene can help you create more impactful and visually appealing paintings.

I will share key principals on how to simplify complex references. We will also explore how to adapt your color palette to your reference so that you can paint any landscape with any set of colors. By the end of this class, you'll have a better understanding of how to approach landscape painting with a simplified and focused mindset. Don't miss out on this opportunity to enhance your painting skills and take your artwork to the next level!

What you will learn:

-We will learn the art of simplifying: how to know what to paint and what not to paint. 

-I will share my thoughts on color theory and I will open your mind experimenting with painting landscapes in colors you may not have thought possible. 

Why you should take this class: This class is for any landscape painter. It's tailored to anyone looking to learn how to jump-start their creativity by stepping away from tutorials to finding their own artistic voice with reference photos. Painting from a reference can be intimidating, but after taking this class you'll be able to look at any photo, break it down, and create your own masterpiece. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Madeline Kerrii

Watercolor Artist

Teacher

Hi! I'm Madeline. I'm a self-taught watercolor artist and I love painting landscapes with a unique color palette. My style of watercolor has been described as having fairy-tale, dream-like qualities. I create content most regularly on Instagram but also make watercolor tutorials on YouTube and Patreon. Thank you for being here!

Here is my latest class here on Skillshare: Spring Polaroids: Beginner-friendly Watercolor Landscapes

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Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. About the Class: When you think about creating art, do you often feel like you're just copying Instagram photos and reels that you've liked and saved? Have you ever wondered how you're supposed to go from taking a tutorial to creating something that you feel like has your artistic voice? Hi, my name is Madeline, and I'm a watercolor artist and content creator. And the most common question that I get on social media is how do I simplify the reference photos that I find to paint the paintings that I do? In today's skill share class, I will be sharing with you how to paint from reference photos and we'll go from where to find reference photos, as well as how to look at a reference photo. Break it down so that it doesn't feel super overwhelming, but rather we digest it and analyze it so that you can get points from the reference photo to paint from. And then how to go on from there to find your color palette. And how to adapt your color palette to a photo that you might want to create. I will not only be sharing principles that will be helpful for you, I will also provide you with plenty of examples in this lesson of reference photos that I've found and the thought process that went on in my head behind the scenes of what I was painting, how I broke it down, how I analyzed it, how I chose what I wanted to paint and what I didn't want to paint. And you'll not only see my final painting, but you'll get all the behind the scenes that was going on in my brain as I was painting them. So without furthermore, let's get started. 2. Where to Find Reference Photos: In this lesson, I'll be sharing how to find a reference photo. And we'll be starting off with what not to do. And then I will transition into sharing some of my favorite websites to find them. This lesson is all about how to find a reference photo to paint. While I don't believe that there is a right and wrong in art, I do believe that there is a right and wrong when it comes to finding references or inspiration for you to create from. The great thing about social media is that it makes content and education accessible to anyone that has a smartphone, which is almost everyone these days. Not only is learning so easily accessible nowadays, you can also learn in small, bite sized chunks. I'll admit that when I first started learning Instagram reels and posts were the main source of my inspiration and learning. However, now that I've been in the watercolor community on social media for a few years now, I've learned that you cannot simply look at someone else's artwork, copy it, and then post it, or use it as your own. There is actually an etiquette to painting from other people's work when you see something that you like on social media, and if this artwork or content isn't obviously a tutorial or class, it's actually best practice for you to reach out or message that creator and ask them for permission. To either use their work as inspiration or to recreate something similar. Asking for permission is a way to be respectful towards that creator's artwork. This is primarily if the creator or their artwork is not obviously in a teaching platform. If you're taking a tutorial or a class and you're planning to repost either a process reel or a photo of your finished work. It's always best to credit the creator or the teacher in your video description. Not only is this giving the creator credit for the work that you are recreating, it also allows other artists who may be looking at your work an avenue for them to find that original tutorial or class. If you are taking tutorials and you're simply just creating for your own recreation or you have no interest in posting it or sharing this on social media, Then you can go ahead and create from any means without really much of an issue. The things that I'm referring to primarily apply to when you are re sharing that work to social media. If you ever have intentions of selling something that you've created from someone else's artwork, class or tutorial, then it is always, always best to ask for permission from the creator that you are learning for if that is okay to them. For me being a larger account on social media, what I've found is oftentimes the easiest is creating art from reference images. And now I'm going to show you how and where to find reference images for you to paint from. I love painting from copyright free images. And there are several websites that you can go to to search for photos that you may be looking for. Some of my favorites include unsplash pixels and Pixel. Be these websites are super resourceful because you can actually search it like a search engine kind of like Google or even Pinterest search and type in whatever you may be looking for. Again, I primarily paint landscapes, so I will type into the search engine nature or sunrises. And then I can go through and look at all those images and find a copyright free image to paint from. Copyright free images are images that are available to the public at large to use without having to pay some sort of copyright fee. Now, even though you're painting from copyright free images, a lot of these photographs are done by professional photographers. I like to use unsplash, and when you download your photo on unsplash, it gives you an option to see the photographers social media channels if I can. I not only like to credit the name in my video description of whose reference photo I'm using, you can even tag them, Tag their social media channel in your post if you are re sharing that reference photo. Like I mentioned earlier, Splash is my favorite copyright free search engine. And here I typed in Sunrise. And I will go through all of the different photos that are available to me. If I click on the photo, you'll see in the upper left hand corner the photographer that took this photo, as well as some information about the photo. And then in the upper right hand corner, you can download the photo in whatever size you like. Once the photo is downloaded, it actually has the photographer's name in the file name and it's an easy way to always remember to credit the photographer as well as the photographer's name. If you actually clicked their profile here, you can actually get their social media channels. So you'll see that their Instagram and Twitter is available here. This is my favorite way to find reference photos and it's a really great resource. 3. How to Simplify a Reference Photo: One of the most common questions that I get asked on social media when people are looking at my artwork, is, how do I simplify the reference photos that I paint? In order to answer that question for you, I want to take a step back just for a minute for me to explain the bigger perspective on how I see painting landscapes. When I first started painting, I like a lot of self taught artists, started learning by watching tutorials, taking classes, and copying the artist styles that I felt drawn to. I watched people paint live in real time. I studied the different types of watercolor styles. Most notably, I really, really enjoyed when people painted landscapes. A few years into painting, I realized that there was a style of watercolor that I was drawn to more than others. And that's this whole concept of loose watercolor. I didn't want my landscapes to look like you were looking at a photo. That it looked so real that you couldn't tell if it was a photo or not. And the reason I liked this style is because in my mind, it really let the watercolor or whatever painting medium that you're using it let that art medium show It was very obvious and clear that you were looking at artwork. And I'm not saying I don't want my paintings to look realistic, I'm not saying I want there to be something off about it. I'm mainly referring to how I achieve that looseness. I've learned that simplifying my composition is a way for that looseness to really show. So what exactly does it mean to stay loose? When I'm talking about looseness, I'm talking about my brush strokes. My brush strokes don't seem tight. Instead of taking ten brush strokes to paint something, I might use three brush strokes. My overall landscape doesn't feel cumbersome, it doesn't have too much going on. It feels simple, not overcrowded. I try not to overwork my colors so that my colors are not muddy. Here are a few key principles to simplifying a photo. I look at a reference photo. The first thing that I do is find a focal point or focus point. It can be one thing up to three different things. This step helps us pick just a few things from our reference photo that we want to paint. And we are left with the feeling of not needing to paint everything in a reference photo, which sometimes can feel really overwhelming, especially if you are just beginning to learn. What I want to highlight in this step is this principle that you don't have to paint everything in a reference photo, and I hope that feels liberating or freeing for you. It may seem a little silly that I'm giving you permission to not paint everything in a photo. But you would be really surprised how many people feel that unspoken pressure to like recreate a reference photo exactly like how it looks. And that if they don't, they're not doing the reference photo justice. Well, that's not the case. You don't need to do that. You don't need to feel all of that pressure. You don't even have to use the same colors that a reference photo uses. That's the beauty of painting. From a reference photo, you get to decide what you want to keep and what you don't want to keep. And that leads me to my next point. What is just as important as figuring out what to paint is figuring out what not to paint. And I'll be honest here, I sometimes will choose the parts of a reference photo that feel hard or difficult to me, and I won't paint them. And not painting them doesn't make me lazy or unwilling to paint something hard. I think whenever anyone chooses to paint a reference photo, they've already chosen to do something hard. You don't need to make it even harder on yourself. You can decide what in the photo you don't want to paint. I know what I can and cannot do in watercolor. And oftentimes, there's a very fine line between something that I've painted hundreds of times to something I've never painted before, and I have no idea how to do it. And I'll try to find something in between that that feels a little bit challenging, but doesn't feel like, oh my gosh, I can't do this because I don't think you should ever feel like, oh my goodness, I can't do this. That is oftentimes your inner critic kind of taking over. And we are on a journey to not let that person have too much power in your creative life. Those are my principles in simplifying a reference photo. In the next lesson, I'm going to share with you plenty of examples of what that looks like. 4. Examples of Simplifying: Let's look at some reference photos together. I am going to share with you different reference photos. And I'm going to walk you through my thought process as I analyze that photo, as well as show you my work having painted from that photo. So the first thing that we need to do is find our focal point. A focal point is an area of interest. What do you want your audience to see first when they look at your painting? In this reference photo? For me, it's that really large tree in the center. Now that I've picked out my focal point, I'm going to pick out one or two more areas of interest that I do want to capture. It's going to be the sky and the little cute fence that we see in the foreground of the photo. Now that I've picked out a few things that I want to highlighted in our reference photo, I'm now going to find things that I want to make sure I don't get bogged down by things that I don't feel I need to paint from this photo for me, I'm going to drop the foliage that you see in the very front. It's just a lot going on. And while I do want to keep the road, I want to simplify it so that it doesn't feel as difficult to paint perspective wise. And while I do want to keep the road because it feels attached to the fence for me, I'm going to leave out all those different patches of grass that come before the road, a little bit after the road, a little bit after the fence. There's just a lot of grass and a lot of area in the reference photo. And so what I want to do is I want to simplify that and sort of bring our elements a little bit closer to each other so that I don't get really tied down by how deep the perspective is. And this is what I painted from this reference photo. You'll see that I created a really soft sky. The reference photo just has some blue and white clouds, but I decided to bring in more of a pastel feeling sky. My tree is right in the center though. You could also change where you want the tree in your landscape. There's a principle called the Rule of Thirds, where you break down a square or rectangle into three different quadrants. And you can choose to put the focal point on the edge or top or bottom of a reference. I'm not going to go into depth about the rule of thirds, but I just want to highlight that if the reference photo has a tree in the center, you don't always have to have your tree be in the center. I added a few trees to the side of the larger tree and you'll see that I did recreate a small patch of grass in the foreground just to allude to there being more foliage. Here is our second reference photo. In our last reference photo, I mentioned that finding a focal point should be your first step. The beauty of painting from a reference photo is that the photo might have a very obvious focal point, but you could actually choose something entirely different in that photo to be your focal point. So in this reference photo, I feel like that larger green tree on the bottom is likely the focal point for this photo. But when I was thinking about painting it, I actually wanted my focal point to be the mountains in the background. I feel like in the reference photo, the mountains are sort of further back. And not necessarily the highlighted item, but that's what I wanted to highlight. When I painted it. I ended up making my mountains much more prominent. I did keep the two trees in my painting, and then I used very loose brush strokes to signify the trees further back from the larger two in the lower half of our painting. So how did I simplify this photo? There are a lot of elements in this photo and as beginner, it could be a little overwhelming figuring out what not to paint. I took out that stairway that you see to the right of the trees, as well as the brook or river that we kind of see on the left hand side. By taking out some of those elements, I was able to highlight the mountains and the trees. And instead of having a really busy painting, I feel like my painting is simple yet powerful. Sometimes when you're looking at a reference photo, there might not be so much going on that you have to pick what to paint and what not to paint. This reference photo is an example of that, where I painted pretty much everything in the reference photo, but I simplified it in other ways. In this reference photo, we have the lavender fields. We have the mountains in the background and a really soft and bright sky. Even though I paint all of those elements, I was still able to simplify this photo. The way that I did the simplifying is I want you to look at the reference photo and see the individual lavender stalks in each lavender bush. And instead of painting every single little stalk of lavender that we see in the reference photo, I used broad brushstrokes and mixed different colors to sort of signify those actual lavender bushes without having to paint it exactly. And this is something I love about water color. You can simply use color and mixtures of color to communicate painting an object. Sometimes simplifying a reference photo is simplifying an actual element of that reference photo. So for example, using just up and down brush strokes or little circular motions is a way that I can paint trees or flowers or bushes, for example. You might have a photo with a house And instead of painting all the different intricacies of a house, you could just use a flat brush and make a few brush marks. And those few brush marks signify the house. Simplifying in this way is a way to prevent yourself by feeling overwhelmed with the tediousness of painting things that are very intricate. Because I kept my lavender fields so simple, I was able to drop in some metallic sparkle accents in the rows between the lavender fields and even at the very tops of the mountains that are being sun kissed. When you simplify a photo because you're not hindered or overwhelmed with all these different elements, it actually gives you room to add fun things like highlights. Let's move on now. This reference photo is the perfect example of a really intimidating and somewhat overwhelming reference photo. This was a really difficult photo for me because there was just so many things going on in the photo. Honestly, I was overwhelmed looking at it and really unsure if I could even paint it. But let's go back to our formula. Let's first find the focal point. So while there are many things in this photo that could be a focal point, I chose mine to be the person on the little boat and the one that has the paddle to move the boat around. There are people sitting in the boat that I chose to leave out. I also knew that I wanted my river to stand out. In the reference photo, the water is sort of a muted bluish green. But I chose a really bright turquoise to further highlight the boat and the person on the boat, on the river. Now that I decided what I wanted my focal point to be, how did I go about eliminating what not to paint? I decided to do something similar to the last reference photo, where instead of painting every single lavender stock that we saw in the photo, I decided I wasn't going to paint every window panel, window bar, and facet of all the buildings to the right and the left of the river. I simplified it down to color. I looked at the different colors of the buildings. I took that color and I used the color to create that illusion of buildings and windows. I actually used really simple back and forth brushstrokes to give those buildings structure in my painting. I let my brush strokes bleed into one another instead of having it be very specific, separate angles of the apartment buildings or the buildings. And this was my way of communicating to the audience that there was a lot going on to the sides of the person on the boat on the river without getting super weighed down by all the details that it would have taken to paint those buildings. And as a result, you get the illusion that there are buildings, but your eyes are directed to the middle of the painting where I want your eyes to go on the little person on the boat. And that's how I simplified this reference photo. This is going to be our last example for this lesson. This is actually a photo that I painted recently. I saw it and immediately was taken back. It was just so breathtaking and it had so many of the colors that I really enjoy painting with When I saw it, I knew that I wanted to keep the brightness of the sky. I also really loved the contrasting blue mountains. So I would say the mountains and the sky are going to be my focal points. I intentionally contrasted the colors of the sky with the mountains to create more of an interest. How did I simplify this photo? I reduced the intricate mountains to just a few breast strokes. I allowed the dark blue indigo that I used for my mountains to sort of bleed out into a softer, lighter blue color. And the biggest simplification of this photo, and what I chose not to paint was I didn't paint each individual tree. And I'm sure by now you've noticed that I'm not a huge fan of painting. Trees, trees are a huge part of landscapes, but it's not something that I enjoy tediously painting. So instead, I used up and down brush strokes to communicate the breadth of trees that we have, sort of below the mountains. That way you still get the feeling of trees. But you aren't left with painting each and every single one. In addition to simplifying the trees, I also chose to completely omit the rocks that we see in the foreground. What I ended up painting, I feel captures the essence of this photo. It highlights why this photo is beautiful. It brings your eyes to that sky and to that mountain. You're left with a very powerful painting. The next lesson is going to be all about finding the color of your voice. 5. How to Adapt Your Color Palette: In this lesson, we're going to talk about what it means to find the color of your voice, Or more specifically, how to find your color palette. I love talking about color. I don't paint nature in a traditional way. I use purples and pinks to paint mountains and trees. I get asked often how I adapt my color palette to my reference photo. The good news is, it's actually fairly easy while I respect the train of thought that a lot of beginner artists get when asked about color and what colors or paints they should buy. Most of us have heard the thought, you should pick a cool and warm yellow, blue and red, all the primary colors. And then from there, go on to mix any color that you could dream of. I personally found that advice as a beginner artist extremely frustrating and discouraging. Actually the reason is because it actually doesn't encourage a beginner artist to explore color. It's considered a limited color palette. And I'm not saying that those six colors are limiting, but it is just a limited range of colors. While it's possible to create very pretty greens and purples and whatnot colors, honestly not the most fun way to approach color. What's easy with that train of thought is because colors and because primary colors can oftentimes have one or two or many undertones, it can be really easy to get muddy colors. As an artist, you know, there's so many different blues and reds and yellows, it's hard to narrow down on the one that might provide you the greatest breadth of color. While I respect that train of thought and I can understand why it is recommended, that's not what I'm going to tell you to do. My advice, if you haven't purchased an extensive color palette yet, is to actually go find paints in the realm of handmade paints. A lot of times brand name paints will have paint ranges that are, most of the time, single pigment colors. Single pigment colors, as a result, don't have a very wide breadth of color. For example, there aren't a lot of pinks in single pigment colors, because pink is actually usually a mixture of red and white. And same with purple. Purple is a mixture of red and blue. As a result, handmade paints are actually half pans or tube paints of already mixed colors. As a result, there are so many more colors for you to choose from. For me, when I started looking into paints, handmade paints specifically, that's when the door to color really opened up in my mind. For me, I was then exposed to so many different shades of pinks and purples and greens and even blues and reds and yellows and oranges. So many. There's literally no limit on all the different colors that you can find in handmade paint maker brands. Handmade paint makers are already doing some of the mixing for you. As a result, there are limitless possibilities to what can be mixed. I think being able to see the breadth of color available to you is just inspiring in and of itself. My biggest advice, the most important principle when it comes to finding the color of your voice is to find and choose the colors that make you feel something. The colors that call to you Art is all about emotion. Color is all about emotion. Colors make you feel things. That's one of the purposes of color. My advice is to not limit yourself to what colors you can use, to what colors you can paint with. There is no limit when it comes to color. If you're feeling overwhelmed and you're not sure what to pick and there's so many possibilities, pick what makes you feel something. Pick what makes you feel wow, That's beautiful. Not every single color you get is going to end up wowing you to the same extent. But this mentality of finding colors that make you feel something is something I really wish I knew when I started painting, before anyone comes to critique me and correct me that pink is not actually a color. I'm here to tell you that there are dozens and dozens of shades of pinks, purples, blues, yellows, every single color imaginable. Not only is there color, there is granulation, which is a phenomenon with paints where some of the heavier particles separate out. When you paint them out, this is specifically in water color. The granulation creates like a grainy texture with color. It's like color within color. It's the color doing something separating, creating something that you can't even truly control. I think in those moments when the tools that we're using create such inspiration and emotion in us that I think is when your voice, your color is going to come out. My guess is there's going to be colors that speak to you and call to you. And I encourage you to let those colors out. Let them on your paper, play with them, paint with them, create magic with them. There is really no limit with color. In the next lesson, I'm going to share with you reference photos, similarly like we did to the examples in simplifying. I'm going to show you reference photos and examples of how I adapted my color palette to the reference photo. I will see you there. 6. Examples of Color Adaption: Let's look at some reference photos. I loved the glow of this reference photo, but it was a little bit tricky because there was a lot going on. Perspective wise, I knew I wanted to capture the glow in the sky and how it touched those mountains in the background, kind of highlighting them. And I love how the color sort of cascades down to the ocean and even the sand that we see closest to the viewer. I don't always love the color orange. I sometimes find it to be a little bit strong. And I personally like when colors have a sort of softer pestel feel. So I decided to go with yellow instead of orange for the color in the sky. And then instead of using a black or gray that you see in the reference photo, I decided to go with a warm blue. A darker blue though, so that it could help create that moodiness for me. And instead of using orange and brown and black for the trees that we kind of see on the horizon, I ended up going with pink and purple. The pink lends itself to a softness that I am after and I carry that softness down into the water and onto the sand. If you're going to pick a color that you want to replace, a darker color, you want a color that is going to be able to build up to a dark color. Even though I didn't use black or gray, I used a dark blue that when very concentrated, does create a dark color. There are colors in the handmade paint realm that because sometimes it can be difficult for watercolor artists in the beginning to know how to get a color light, You actually have to dilute a color to get it lighter, oftentimes diluting it with water. But because that whole diluting process can be a little bit confusing for beginners, there are paints in the handmade realm that are just very muted and very light. And no matter how much paint that you get and you put it on paper, it's not going to make that particular color very dark. That's just something to be aware of. You want to find colors that are buildable in the sense that you can get a light color and you can also very concentrated, get a dark color too. And something that isn't necessarily in the single pigment realm is this whole window, or this whole world of metallic paints. Shiny paints, shimmery paints, sparkly paints. I love painting with sparkle. I love using sparkle to highlight things, to draw your eye towards what I want your eyes to focus on. You see the shimmer that I use in the water, in the sand. That's something that's amazing about color. Quite honestly, my painting looks really different than the reference photo. It's because I chose the colors that I wanted to use. In that way, I made this reference photo mine. I made this painting mine, and it has a stamp of my voice. When someone looks at these colors, looks at this painting, the I have often thought, oh, this looks like Madeline. That's what I want you to be able to find. I want you to be able to find your voice in the colors that you choose. This was a really fun photo that I painted, and I was able to take a really unique colorful twist on it. I knew I wanted to paint a purple ocean. When I was looking through the reference photos, I wasn't exactly looking for a photo that already had purple in it. I was I was going to take any reference photo and use the colors that I wanted to in the reference photo. I really like that sun shining through the water, ripples, water waves at the top of the photo, I knew I wanted to capture the light. I also did want to capture the silhouette of the coral reef. If you look at the reference photo, the coral reef is quite intricate. I knew I didn't want to paint the coral reef the colors in the reference photo. And I didn't want my coral reef to feel cumbersome either. Instead, I used a silhouette. I picked pinks and purples, and I made the coral reef a silhouette. This was my end result. This honestly goes to show that you can paint any reference photo or any thing that you see in nature any way you want with any colors that you want. After picking the elements of the photo that I knew I wanted, I simplified it by not getting tied down or bogged down by all the details that we see in the reference photo. I've painted this reference photo a few times, each time with different colors. I really love how simple this reference photo is already. I kept the colors really simple. I went with yellow for the sun and then I went with pinks and purples for the rest of the landscape. By now, I'm sure you'll recognize that there are colors that I use more often, and it's because I enjoy painting with them. This is probably similar or as close to a monochromatic painting as I get with the examples in this lesson. A monochromatic painting means you choose one color and you paint the entire painting in that color. Like I mentioned earlier, if you are picking a color to represent darker parts of the reference photo, you want to make sure that that color has a range. This isn't quite monochromatic because I actually use three colors here. But you could go monochromatic. And it's simple enough that you're able to explore color wise, how you would want this reference to look. When painting with fewer colors, it's important to have that range in depth and darkness. This is a very beautiful reference photo that did have a foreground that felt really intimidating to me. The trail that you see in the foreground had a lot of layers and a lot of perspective going on. I knew that I wanted to simplify that. I kept the sky yellow and I went with pinks and purples. One of the best ways to communicate depth and perspective in water color with color is light and dark. Things that are further away from the viewer are going to be lighter, and things that are closer to the viewer are actually going to be darker. I captured the mountain in the background that we just have a silhouette of with the lightest tone of pink. Then as I started painting and working my way towards closer to the viewer, I gradually darkened and chose colors that were darker. That is a way to create perspective without even having to paint things smaller or larger. You, by virtue of color, are able to communicate that distance. Again, something that I really like to do with my sparkly metallic paints is to use that sparkle to communicate sunlight hitting it and creating a glow. You see actually some of the birds as well as the tips of some of the foliage that I painted in the midground, having that very faint but accented sparkle to me, that is just a beautiful way to communicate sunlight and brightness. This is going to be the last photo for this lesson. As I've mentioned before, sometimes simplifying a reference photo is only painting and picking out a few parts of that reference photo. But sometimes it could look like our reference photo today is this big. You see this tiny little plant in the middle, and then you see this vast background of water ripples. For me, I painted just the tiny center, the little tiny plant, and just the ripples right around it. Instead of painting the vastness of all the water ripples in the reference photo, I just painted a little bit and I gave it a sky. So not only can you pick and choose what you want to paint, you can also add elements that aren't already there. And for me, it was a pink sky as a backdrop to the little plant and the water ripples. I kept the plant green, but I went with a darker green. I wanted that plant to contrast the water around it. I used a dark blue and a dark purple to create the depth at the bottom of the landscape. Really, the most important part of this lesson is just making sure that you have the range that you need to create the depth that you want to communicate in your painting. If you have the range, there's really no limit to the color that you use. 7. Your Class Project: The class project for this class is very simple. I have included all the reference photos that I shared in this class as PDF downloads for you, available to you in the projects and resources tab of this class. Feel free to download any reference photo that I've shared. I would love to see your take on it. I want to see how you simplified it, What colors you felt called to use in the description of the photos. I'd love to hear what you learned. You don't even need to use the references that I used. You could paint from an entirely different reference of your own. If you don't want to share what you learn and you just want to simply upload the reference photo that you used in the photo that you painted. I'd love to see that. Also, if you enjoyed this class, I would love to hear your feedback either as a discussion post or as a class review. Class reviews are really great for helping my classes get traction. If you enjoyed the class, I would love to hear what you liked about it. Most of all, I hope that you go on to paint many photos. I hope the things that I've taught you today have been freeing or liberating in some way. And I cannot wait for you to find your artistic voice.