Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hey, welcome to week
two, module two. Seats. This week we're really
delving into it and we're going to start creating
hands-on samples. And it's going to be a lot of work this week where you're
going to learn a lot too. I will show you
different kinds of seams enhance and you will learn
how to finish things. It side the government. Why this is important to apply depending on welcome
and you're working with, why is this strong same, what is the weak C? And we'll start looking
at our own clothes and seeing what we
can find in sight. Without further ado,
let's delve into it.
2. What is a seam?: So what is the same? Esteem is the section where two pieces of fabric
as stitch together, we actually go and
look for young clubs. You will find that insight. They might look different way. You've got seams. You might have
different kinds of decorative effects on
the inside usually, but sometimes on the
outside to talk about this interface major
template and look like a little tune eight because it's really good to visualize. We'll be doing. But
you're welcome to use just rectangular pieces they going to be working with. In order to do so if you
don't have a printer, it's completely up to you. So go ahead and cut
out the pieces.
3. What is a seam allowance and how to add it to a pattern?: The first thing we need to do is add something called
seam allowance. Seam allowance is an extra
that we add to the piece, gum and fees in order to
stitch it to another piece. Let's take the template that
you have just cuts out. You have got a piece
for the right side, on the left side, EPUB to stitch these
pieces just as you will find the UI taking fabric
they shouldn't be taking. And then the bit on the top where the neck line is
or will become smaller. Because we are taking fabric that should actually be
part of the government, not part two the same. In order to avoid that, you need to add extra
on both pieces. Away you stage, you
actually stage of what is now the edge
of the pattern. Then nothing gets
taken in extra. And you've got
enough to work with. Depending on how much you add. Seam allowance is an extension which can be 1.51 centimeters, sometimes even just
half centimeter. What I'd advise that you do for most of the scenes
that we are working with today is to use 1.5 sent
to me to seem allowance. The reason being is because you'll have
more to work with. You can use assigned
to me to eat. I'm just giving you
this as a guideline because we're working with
straight lines today. Bigger seam allowances, fine. But later MME start working with the smallest seam
allowance, the better. You also need to get into the
habit of adding grain lines because they will
show you how you're supposed to cut your
pattern pieces. Because stitching.
4. How to position our fabric before sewing seams?: First we're going to
work with a plain see. A play scene is a scene that you could see it most of
your clothes perhaps. And I'll show you the
different kinds of crazy there are to start with. Once we have added
a seam allowance, we can then cut out pieces out in public including
the seam allowance. Then place the pieces of
right sides together where they is from your template or just two rectangular pieces. It's completely up to you
and then you want to base it on machine working plate. Now, you can use, if you want to, if you're a complete
beginner than Pence would be very
helpful to you. I don't use pens are ways
when it's small sections of it because I'm able to
navigate the machine correctly. But please do use pens
API filled with things too slippery because you could take the pins out as he go. Now what you want to do is have a look at the plate
of the machine. So on the right of the
needle, inevitably, you will see that you get a little markings
on the actual page. They have got numbers with them. So it's very likely depending
on where in the world. But if you're saying
UK, it's likely that the nonbasic 101520, etc. So that is the number
of millimeters that the line with the number next to it is away from the needle. So if it says ten and
then it means that it's ten millimeters away from the needle or
one centimeter. Basically, if it says 15, that's 15 millimeters away from the Naval Hospital me to skip, you are watching from
somewhere else and then you may be
working in inches. But the same rule applies. The markedly have the line they had with a number that
corresponds to it is the distance between the
needle and the actual market. You want to do is to place
your pieces they have pinned onto the plate where the original edge
of the pattern, which is where will be stitching
is it went to utilise. And you may have not my office, but if you have added 1.5
centimeters seam allowance, then the edge of
your pieces will line up with the
line that says 15. Or if your machine
has marked that in millimeters and if you
have used a centimeter, then you want to line up the
edge of your pieces with the line that has ten on
it for ten millimeters. And then you will have the
actual stitching line. Weight should be right
underneath the needle.
5. Lets stitch a seam!: And lift, go ahead and stitch. Our first save. What you want to do at the
beginning is to use a reverse but backstage for a couple
of stitches, if you know. What kind of a length
of stitch to use, I advise a medium between
2.553 on your machine. It will be usually between 05 certain mediums between
that I use around three depending on what you want to do after you
have gone backwards. Within the burst
stitch is let go. A good home your pieces and
keeps stitching forward. Just a normal stitch and take
your pins out as you go. If you have got pins at
the end of the stitch, you want to also backstitch
again a couple of stitches. Now the reason we do this
is because if we don't use the backwards stitches in the
beginning and at the end. If we don't reverse stitch, what happens is that you
can very easily unraveled. We see me have just stitch together because there's
nothing to hold it. The backstitch holds
things together and place. So it's very, very important. What you want to do after
you finish is to just trim your thread at the beginning
and the end of stitch. The next thing that
we're going to do, which is one of the most important
things they want to do, is to go to your iron and gold, place your pieces with the
wrong side up the most. The right side is the side you could see on
the wrong side is your request just to clarify
and press the seam open. You can do that with
your fingers but, and then use the AI and, and just give a little prayer. So don't earn about, just press more creative and use your steam and maybe give
it a little on-off done. And then what you
find is that you have really nice crisp finish
on the right side, on the inside as well.
6. Plain seam - next steps: Now we have a really
professional and looking, placing on the right side, but on the wrong side. Seam allowances not
looking so good, they need to replenish. And depending on the
finished website, you will have different
kinds of seams. And I will show you now what
kind of plain seams there are and how you can go about
finishing those voyages.
7. Overlocked seam variations: Something that you can do is if you have an
OEM of outcome, you could simply overlook each individual seam allowance
and then press flat again. And that's basically
you're seeing turn. When you're blocking,
you want to have everything that you
don't want overlooked. The left of the overlap occur whilst the way they are overlapping should
be on the right, everything right. Of the needle. Please. Don't make that mistake to have things they don't
want to open up in cutoff. On the right. Now, you could have two
different variations of the same using an oval locker dies a double overload seeing
which is more just done. But you could also have
a single overload scene, which is where you pinch the two allowances together and you just overlook
them together. So the Tuesday, one of
them is the right of the angel and the rest of
the material is on the left. And then they get
all locked together. You then press them to one side. Then that's a single
overlapped, the same. If you look at your
governments home, you will find that most of
them will probably have either single or double
overlooked finish. This is because
overlooked finishes a very cheap and very fast
way of producing clothes. This is why I love retail. Use it, but it's
not the strongest. I'd be wary of using
this too much. It's also not great, seem to have for close them made from fabrics
that friend locked. So that's something
to bear in mind. When you finish
all blocked scene, whether it's single
or double booked. See, what do you want to do is to do something about the tail. You'll find that
you've got tails of all the locking on either side. Now you could just
snip those off if those two sides of the
CMA going into Anansi, for example, if you have
staged a side same down and you know that
the top on the side CME is going to be
stitch just sleep. Then the bottom is going
to finish it in my hand. So stitch down, then you
can cut off the tails because the ad the same low
will secure them native. Something else we
might refer to do is to keep things
strong and durable. If you grab a needle
with a big eye, then you could guide
each tail through that, the needle on the underside of the overlapping along
the seam allowance. And then you can trim DX says a couple of centimeters then even if
it's just a sad to me to me. Because in a way that's a bit like doing a back stitch on, going back from yourself
and doing things in place. Nothing more unravel
whilst if you just cut things and creating samples
and we just have things, nothing will get cured. Then what will
happen is over time, things my unraveled is
overlapping is not very strong. Kind of just something
to bear in mind.
8. Pinked seams: Now there is a chance that you might not have
an overlooked. Most people don't actually
own and overlook. What you might want to
consider is an options. Something that you can do
if you have thinking shares those things that edge is
that dress may confuse. Usually, just trim
the excess frame bit of the seam allowance for
the theme without him get kind of steel denied
the exact button. It's not ideal for materials. They're afraid too much, which can be helpful
for most materials. This is a very much a dressmakers
worth finishing days. It's not the most high-end
wage finish things. And again, it's not particularly strong wedge finish things. It's a quick fix. And if you have these
shares may be helpful to you to use on some materials. But again, I suggest, see what are the
options that you have and see what your
project is about as file In this guy actually be helpful if you're washing something by two
log for example, each want a much more
stronger finish. If you are making
out to wear jackets, coats, trousers as well. Something that's gonna have
a law where particular places you want to go for
a image that is strong.
9. Folded and stitched seam: If you don't have the tools for the seams we have covered. You can also consider
another one which is by folding the seam allowance
part that is Raul under, tucking it under
towards the actual same on both sides and pressing. Then you could secure that by stitching that folded
edge down on both sides. So this is a good option if
you don't have an OEM loca, if you don't have
panicking as exact shears. And it is also strong because even if you have a material
that phrase a lot, the stitching they
have on phones, it's going to make sure that that bit that is quite frankly
not going to unraveled. So that's why it's quite good.
10. Topstitched seams: We have covered the
plain seams and we're going to go for yet another
variation of those. And that is top
stitch narration. So what is the next stage is the detail of
decorative stitching that's visible on the
outside of the gum. And sometimes they can
be used just as bad, but sometimes they can
also have a function. A function can be keeping the seam allowance stitch to
the rest of the material. Let's take for example, one of the scenes
we have created, whether you have
chosen to go for an overlooked pink to finish
or folded and stitched manage we could do is actually
in the seam allowances to the government and
then stitch down on either side equal amounts
from GE actual seat. You get that depending on what plain seam you've gone for, you could pin the seam
allowances on either side of the seam line and then
stitch I the side, catching them equal amounts
away from the actual scene. If you are using the phone dude and stitched method
with a plain seam, instead of stitching
and down in the bonds, you can just tuck and
fold the raw edge of the seam allowance and then
pin this seam allowance to the rest of the
government and then use the top
stitching itself to keep things in place
and secure that ROI age, trapping it in between the seam allowance and
the rest of the gums with that top stitch
stitch seems couldn't be double stitch or they
could be single-stage. So if you have created
a double pane same, you can use this method. Or if you have created a single
plain seam, for example, single overlook scene, I'll
single folded and stitched. Then we could do is a
stitch down that one side. So you'd only have top stitching visible on one side on late, this could be decorative. For example, if you have a single top stitch
seam on the shoulders, then you could tab
the top stitching either of the front on the back and you'll
be the same on the right and the left
side of the government. But it will be a nice detail. So something to bear in mind. As you can see, they already
different ways to work with just a plain seam because
there's so many options. But what if we go from
the Mach bands he sees.
11. Flat fell seam: We have covered played saying, but how about seems a little
bit more interesting and I told bit more fancy
and more hij to. I've got three fantasy
themes for you. And they are used more rarely because they take
little bit longer to create. But the finishes bed is
stronger and weaker, close last longer
without further ado. Let's delve into it. The first one we're
going to explore as the flat panel C
Flash Fill scene is a very strong siem
and also decorative. Could find it in classic genes, usually node inside leg. Modern genes from cheap
high street shops are not really always using
this kind of same. They're a bit
quicker and cheaper, remained not as strong, but this scene is guaranteed
to make it worse. Not on this turned out, but also to last time
we need to do is again cut out your template with
1.5 said to seam allowance. And ideally, this time when we are painting
two pieces together, imagine that we want to stitch
them wrong sides together. For the plate scene where we're stitching things are
right sides together. This time I'm going to be stitching things
alongside together. This makes no sense. I'm sure too a lot of
you but bear with me. There isn't a reason
why we're doing this. We're going to do exactly the same
thing that we did before on the phone
sites together where we secure ring that beginning
stage and we end at the stage with a reverse
stitch in-between, just stitching as normal
with a medium and they stitch the two inch and
a half centimeters. Once we've done this, again, we're going to go to the
iron and press things open. And this time it will
come bit strange because the seam allowances
will be on the outside. But then the next thing that you do is where it gets exciting. You're going to take
your fabric scissors and you going to choose one of the seam
allowances to cut off, to trim, trim into
a few millimeters. Now, depending on
what you choose, the same ODE be
either left or right. Black failed in terms of sample that
doesn't really match. But when it comes to clubs, and if you use this same
for decorative purposes, for example, on either
side of a tall, then you need to make
sure that one of them, the ride seam allowances
sprint and from the other, the left seam allowances. For now, I want
to trim on one of our seam allowances to
approximately three millimeters, then fall to the seam
allowance that had not been trained on it and
press it down with the eye. Then what you want to do
is check the raw edge under like we did earlier with
the term does ditch thing. You just hold and tuck
and then press the iron. Then you will see that it's now starting to look a very
neat on the right side. You can use pins or
what is a good thing to use is some threat to temporarily tech things
in phase because things a lot this same dealt
required before precisions. I do advise you if
you can spend it, if you have the time to spare, to actually do the
attacking because it's always the long run going
to save me more time. And the reason why
I'm saying that is because if you do the same where you use pens
and things slip a bit, then it won't look that good. If it doesn't look that good, you need to do the same again
and then again and again. Each attack him. Nice, There's a better chance that things would
work out better. Time round you still I need
to do a couple of times, but I think overall, you need to do it
less times to achieve a better finish UP,
do the tapping. So that's up to you, but I chose to attack it. Then what you want
to do is go back to your side machine
and then you want to place it so the needle is
about a millimeter or less? Yes, that's correct. A millimeter or so away
from the fault gauge. That's why it's
slightly more by Linda. I know you can do it. They came back stitch
at the beginning and then if you wanted
to be more pretty, you want to use along the
stitch because longer stitch on the right side always looks virtuous and could use
on four centimeters. However, that means that it will go faster as well
Because notice it acquired quicker movement as
the machine jumps forward. So what advises if
you don't feel too confident creating this
in the first place, start with the shortest
stage and then build in future
towards longer stitch. When creating this composting. Three millimeters
is perfectly fine. You could do witness if you want to read the face
what your level is. In Europe, we use our machine. Once we have stitched down the folded edge all the way
and backstage at the end, I want to trim all sides. Final press. And you will see that same sort of
folded to one side, which is what I meant when I
said it is very decorative. It looks really nice. And because we've got
all the stitching or stitching in the beginning and then we secured
it with not stitch, it is stronger finish. And if you were using
it for fabrics, that prior knowledge,
then you'll find that Craig is encased
into that boat. Thanks should stay in
place for a long time. So it's very good
to independence. It's also a good thing to use if you're using thicker
materials such as Dana him. And that's one of the
reasons why these calls. Once you trim one
of the allowances, you eliminate in bulk. And eliminating bulk
when it comes to materials is a
really good thing. So that's one of the reasons why you might
want to use this kind of look at your loans and see where else you
could find the same. Is it on your genes already? Kind of juicy? Have them reading plan to depend whether that seems
down, but how to look. It would also be on
some spores jackets as well. Good luck.
12. French seam: The next thing is
a French theme. A French seam can be
very best towel seen. It is normally used on
lightweight materials. Formal dress is made from Shem, Cheerios and very loudly. And the French seam is a
very neat see on the inside, but also is very strong. So I use it for Law of other
things, actually personally, but as a guideline, it is best inserted
or lightweight. And Joe's going to work with our 1.5 send to me
to seem on them. There's the twist step where you want to do is to start with, again, place your pieces. Whether you're using the
template or whether you are using just rectangle pieces, raise them to get them
wrong sides together again, so very similar to
the flat falsey. You want to praise them
together from all sides. And the men place and then
go to your sewing machine. And instead of stitching
at a 1.5 centimeters, you're only going
to stitch once. Even though we have got
1.5 sent to me to seem allowance was going to stand by stitching
up in one sentence. This will make sense. If you can go and do that. And again, use reverse stitch, the beginning of
the interview stage and use the median stitch between Jim and
to meet stitches. Once you have done that again, go to the eye and
prints things out. But I think you could
probably see at this point a trend forming with the pressing
things open a lot. The reality is that
that's what makes things look really professional and prints a nice even though
we don't want to all the I in fibers because they
can move and stretch. Pressing when you create a
seam is very, very important. So always nice uses steam. So now that we have
Press things again, what's happening is that we have got our seam allowances
on the outside. So again, it makes no sense. This time, what we're
going to do is instead of trimming want schema nouns, we're going to trim both. And we're going to trim
up to three millimeters. So going into that, when you have trim bugs, seam allowances to
three millimeters, you can then follow the
rest of the material. It's now right sides together. You shouldn't have
any pockets being created by the first
seem that you've made. You should be nice
and flat because he prays to open first-time round. And now they
followed in one side over the other, right
sides together. That edge. The you're just creating nap
should be nice and flat, pressing down with
the eye and in place. Now what we want to do is stitch five millimeters from
that old today edge. You want to use your adverse to, to the beginning and the end of the government or the
normal stage in between. In fact, for this, you want to probably
even go smaller. So 2.5 to three sent to
me to stitches as good. The material, the
smaller the stitches. So it's a good idea to get used to doing
that branch season, mostly used on in a materials. Once you have stayed the same, you will end up with a
really neat bid on inside. And the right side should go
just like a regular same. You want to go to
Deanne again and press the C from the inside, press it down so
it's nice and flat. And you will find its
needs and inside, on the outside, it's
also very strong. So you using fabric
will trace a lot. The same is very good encasing
all the beds now praying inside because we've got two
lines, two chain securing.
13. Bias bound seam: All right, Final Fantasy saying that we're going
to explore today is the lies about what you want to have for
this one is bias tape, which you can buy from
any haberdashery. And it's a very cheap, but it's probably about
something like 30 P per meter. And you only need a little bit. You don't need a
whole meter either. You just need to
twice the length of the scene that you'd be
create stitch, I'll play C. So as we did in the beginning, right sides together, stitch
it and press it open. So now we have a plain seam
like we did in the beginning. But this time we're going
to do is we're going to apply somehow more
advanced technique. If you've cut to pieces by
state the length of the scene, it doesn't actually matter
how wide your teeth. It's just one of those
things that comes in all sorts of widths and colors and sometimes
even patterns. It's really pretty used on the inside of things
like lasers and jackets, trousers To line, to
use the bucket bytes. It's just very versatile
thing because it's coach on the bus and you can
remember from last week, things catch on the bus. Stretchy or he can be used
on curved seams as well. So you can bear that in mind for one of the next
weeks, but for this week, but this week we're
going to use it just, just to learn how to create
our bodies, the bound state. And we're going to
do is after you've recorded the two pieces
of bias binding, you going to take
one piece and you go to one of the pages. You comes with two edges
pulled it normally, you're just going to involve water ages and
you're going to line up that unfolded age would
exhibit one, your allowances. Then you go and
just tap painting before this kind of scene, when I apply a bias binding, I like to pinch going to words the same like
I have shown here. And what I do is that I
take the pins out as I go. What we're going
to do after we've painted all the way down. So we're just working
with one side by an hour. You're going to go to
machine and then you go into the crease of the fold from the bias by day right
underneath the needle. And this is where you
will be stitching on that ditch that
you have on hold. You go into secure
at the beginning, at the end as usual, just use a medium stitch. Once things and
stitched in place, you can go back to your iron. And then what you want to
do is fold the rest of the binding over the
bit they just stitched. From there. You want to then took the remainder of the bias
binding under seam allowance, you encasing the row agent the seam allowance
using a bias binding. Now the two different ways that you could do
is depending on how wide your bias binding you
can either keep it unfolded, just fold it, encasing the
seam allowances on row age. Then press or you could
unfold the remainder first and then took the
whole thing and you'll have actually more
to work with underneath. Then on the top, both ways are fine because
as we mentioned last week, when you work and when you cut, It's only advise
there is no praying that it's not like as usual, the binding is now going to just unravel and pray so I
wouldn't worry about that. That's your way. You could do either
of those things. I will show you what it
looks like with item. And what you're going to do
is then I pin or tacking, going to go to the
machine and you go into stage approximately
a millimeter away from the edge of
the bias binding on top, just like I have shown here. This will catch the
bottom of the bias binding underneath
the seam allowance. So if you have
unfolded that age, then you will have
more to work with. You definitely catch it with you haven't imposed in my
ability to be more friendly because
you'll have less to work with underneath mine, a bit more failure to catch it. So if you just
starting with survey, I suggest the palms,
the whole thing. Do that version because
it will be easier for you to do that if you're feeling
more advanced or in-between, perhaps you want
to explore that. They use a longest stage when you're stitching,
it brings down. So machine Googlebot faster
and keep it as straight line. You could even have the underneath part
of the bias binding. Phone did still. So you could aim to make sure
you catch him either way. Interior denies him to
all the oranges in case. So EPR work in wet
material which phrasing? It's a really good finished
to use yada thing. It's not if you lie using this or closely you created
your eyes too. I will be very beautiful
engine inside, especially if you choose
binding that is contrasting. Binding, that is perhaps
printing and property pattern. So I've just covered that really compliments the rest
talk with that. It's completely up to you, but it's fun to
work with binding. Once you get past the objects, I understand that you wouldn't need to do this a few times. It's one of those things
that could give but frustrating if it doesn't
work a couple of times, but don't be discouraged
because it does take practice and that's something you have committed to learn. And it's good to know these things because once
you know this things, it can recognize how
your clothes are made. You can start and standing
your clones better. And also you will know how to work with the seams if
you know how they created, you know how to work with them. You know how to also undo.
14. What is a hem?: Now that we have
covered some seams, I'm going to also show you a few hands and just joke my
hands for the actual wet. Whereas the hand, the hand is the edge of the bottom
of your government. And that's usually unfinished
in different ways. I'm going to show you a few different ways
finishing hands, but they had no way down
at waste finish hands. Again, as your knowledge grows, you will learn more
and more types and you can use the
knowledge that you have gained today to build
on if I've create your own finishes and
nights, most exciting part.
15. What is a hem allowance?: We've had seam
allowances that we added to our Comm uses to
stitch seems to get them. Now if we add extra to a ham in order to
finish it, for example, if we have a pattern
piece for us, we'll have a hand and
then we'll have some extra under the hand. The hammer loans,
which we will rate it finish in a variety of ways. And make sure it's tucked up inside of the
Galton's eugenic. That's our Hamiltonians. Now him allowance in terms of how big it is, how wide it is. Again, a varies just like
seam allowance does. Different factors. I suggest using magenta want
to choose send to me H's, go ham on LMS pre-op sound. You can cut a rectangular
piece to work with the hands. You could also use the samples
you've already created. Work on my hands if you like.
16. Overlocked hem: The first thing we're going
to do now that we have got pieces cut is if he had
gotten out blocker, you could create
an overlooked him. And that is a very
common kind of finish. You could see it on
trousers these days, on some cuts, on some jackets, haven't blazers button outlined. What you want to do is
simply finish the ROI age of the extension that
you have added as a hammer balance
using diol blocker, then going to your iron and then faulting alongside
the actual headlines are well original Ham was it all of that extension
will then be coded to the wrong side of our
sample and pressed down. Now, what you want to do
once you've done that is to go ahead and
then stitch down. And it depends, It's completely up to waste
too cheap though. This is why when
decorative thing so you can stitch quite close to the hand itself if you have quite a bit
pamela to work with, because stage further up, it's completely up to you. You may wish to use along the stitch because as
we mentioned before, it's a bit like jobs, digital seams, where
you want to have a longer stage if you want it to be prettier and
more decorative. Could use perhaps
formidable inches, depending on how
confident. You don't. Just an idea.
17. Turned and stitched hem: We don't have enough locker. You can use a double
folded and stitch tank. It's a type of Hamza you
can find on your clothes. I'm sure a lot of
good for us and that is very widely use tamp. It is a steady hand and it
comes in different widths. Whatever amount of
him allowance you have added to the existing him, go to the eye and folks over him allowance to the wrong
side using the hand as a guideline as to which bones
oppress black when I took the edge under it could even touch the actual
him and press again. Then go to the machine and
just stitch down again. It depends how far you want to stitch
from the hand itself. We need to make
sure that you catch the foam due to bid
on the unsigned. Now, with this dish
ham variations, if you are working with
quite thin material, you want to do is to
reflect on the amount of homologs, Example materials. You want small hammer
allowance and you won't know because if you have a
wider followed in mind, drag the government down. Suddenly the way if you are working with quite
thick material, extra Hammer lungs is fine. But when you folding that age, when you tucking it in, we want to do is to only took you in a bit,
not the whole thing. Most of the actual
him phones beyond the two layers and
then the tempt burgeon beyond the five millimeters in. That's where you've been
stitching things down. It's important to
think about Bokeh. It's important to think
about the kinds of uteruses. This is recovered materials last week because in each town stranding or
materials and composites. Well, in terms of materials and materials
in terms of seems incompatible with the
hands that allow hens can be used for all
when you need to adjust according to
what you work in. You are most probably working
cotton, real samples. So I suggest you use a couple of centimeters ham allowance. And then when you taking
into account one centimeter onstage down five
millimeters or just omega? Not work quite well, just as a guideline.
18. Taped hem: Another thing you can
do in terms of hands is to use tape to finish a hand. So-called take Tims. And you could see
them on trousers, especially the bulk of
trousers on men's trousers. Not exclusively. We want to do is just
take tape and no, it doesn't have to
be unbiased state unless it working woman. Normal tape is fine for
straight lines to monitor CO2, the wet on the sample
and your ham allowance. And then stitch the
right sides together. Two edge that ham allowance. How do we do this? We'll place the tape, the agent, the tape with the edge of the hammer loans to the right
side of the hammer cones. That was stitch a
few millimeters then that might finish a
week Peleus Magento time. While you do this, secure the beginning of June
for the backs ditch us. We have been doing
with seems again. And then go to the eye in that time you've seen you've just created
already using seems. Press it flat and then
there allowance alongside with them along the line of the guidelines I attribute
with the other hands. Press. Now the T's acting
as a natural extension. And it has also tidy The Voyage of the ham allowance
which is now underneath. And all you need
to do is to stitch down the tape to the
rest of the gum. If you have used a lot of him allowance and
then added tape, you're stitching will
be really high up. If you've used a little bit pamela per centimeter
in 122 of these, then you've added
the link to that, then it won't be quite as
high in each Rachel raised to June 13 to the government
on to that prompt, the right side of
the governments, make sure you outside and in time tried to
prepare the inside as well. So these are the three
types that I want you to show you done by one shape
because they are useful, but they're also
used quite a lot. And again, if you wanted
to add anything to a hand or to shorten something
and then use a hammer. You could use either
one of these. It will be fine.
19. Final thoughts and homework: I just wanted to also mention quickly in terms of
closely you already have 18 want to
work in future when you're close to do
some transformations. Knowing the seams that we have coverage today
is important. Because we now know the structure of how
things are put together. We know how to unpick things. You're unpicking is
your friend when it comes to transformations. And if you look at your clubs, have a look, save what you, if you had a pile of
clothes that you, you might want to work
with to transform. Scenes happened, can see what kind of seems
and actually have. John says add that most
of these things will be all blocked and you can easily unpick seems that I adopt overlooked because I used to do it's just something. Ross this stitching
in the beginning. The single, all the
loved ones in a bit more tricky because
you're blocking, even though it's easy to
unravel once it's damaged. When it comes to unpicking, it's a little bit annoying. Chow is where you can do is if you just unplug a
stage every inch or so, abuse centimeters or south, then it should be easy
to unravel with, HM. If you are trying to
pick a flat felled seam, you know that one side will have less than one ounce and
ethylene me to thinking and bonds how you would
go about making sure nothing gets damaged and
how this won't be visible. And if I'm picking
a French seam, then you need to think
about how you won't have a lot to work with in
terms of seam allowance. Because of course we've trimmed part of it so you don't really have millimeters him
alarms on average. I mean, it depends
on the gum they have is you have got teams
that advise bound again, it'll be easier to
think because you only need jumping the same and
leave the binding where it is. That's quite straightforward. So knowing these things already makes things
easier when it comes to planning or what
you can do to gamma later when you are at
a more advanced stage. But the basics and lagging
these things and then funds, it's important you practicing these and trying to
understand how they work and it's embedded loop is this important because it gives you that understanding that design
thinking for the future. What I love you to do
this week is to print out your semen ham evaluation sheet
and record your progress. So print a sheet per
sample of a type of scene. Do as many samples as
you like reach sitting, I suggest just tagged
by creating one sample. Then evaluating what's gone wrong and what you
struggled wet. Then the ones they struggle
with the most do again. They're the ones that
you need to work on. Stat, building your folder
where your samples to refer back to and to see
your progress. Because once you
do thrive to make rare two samples and seeing
the progress from waves tattooed to you now is
a great achievement. I looked forward
to seeing you at the next session until
the next module. Stay creative.
20. Module 2 Bonus - curved seams: Here is your bonus
for this week. It will be something that
might challenge a little bit, but it will also help you with next week's module if you
decide to go correct. So far, you have
been doing straight seems just straight lines and you have learned
a lot in this module. However, I wanted
to quickly touch upon scenes and in particular, inward and outward curves
and how to stitch these. And there's a reason why you have inward and outward curves. So let's start with
inward curves. If you have a
sightseeing some way, for example, one of the top, your body is on
the sides, right? So we're not boxes were not unless you want to have
them boxes silhouette, which of course you can. If you want to tag
something more, you have to curve a little bit. And we'll be doing this more and more in the weeks to come. So why not start early and have a go at
stitching it to a, you don't actually have
templates for this. I suggest just two pieces similar to what I
have done here. Did it by, I actually did
both pieces exactly the same. And they have an inner curve. What you want to do then
is go to your machine and take a seam allowance the centimeters fine, 1.5 fine too. It's not too extreme. And then start sewing, maneuvering along the curve we want to do is as straight seam. You need to use the guides
to line up the ROI age of your material and just making sure that that's
always the same place. Don't necessarily need
to look at the needle. We want to do is to
pay attention to that curved edge
and where it is. We always ask them
in the same place, you need to just
move a little bit. You may be able to make
this a little bit easier. It is slightly
stretch the material into a more or less
straight line. And that will enable you to
just keep going straight. But actually at the engine
will have a curve C, like I have done here. You want to press the same
open little by little, because you won't
be able to start once you have done that. The next thing
we're going to do, and I'll quickly show you
is to create an algebra. Now why would you
want to create and now you want to create out to, because if you want something
more three-dimensional, again, our bodies are not boxes. They have curves like
this is an algebra. Here. Grinder, malicious
path, the hips out. And entirely my goal for completely three-dimensional
shapes coming out of our usual silhouette. And that would require
you to do as well. So I thought I'd show you again. It's not that different really. Again, have shaped
like I have done here just by eye with an hour to cut two pieces exactly the same. Make sure they have a
seam allowance decided. So a centimeter is fine. You could do one-hot want. At this point. I would make sure
again that you pay attention to the
Lloyd and Diablo two, that it lines up with the guide, depending on what seam
allowance chosen on your own machine late and just
work slowly and navigate. You probably want to use a
smallest stage at this point. So you'd go slower
because sponsors to treat less jumps
from each stitch. So it's a good idea to do this if you've not
feeling confident. I hope you have
enjoyed this bonus for this module. See you next time.
Eva Dragoeva, Fashion Designer
