Transcripts
1. Course introduction: Hey, welcome to this
beginner's course for sustainable fashion nesters. Thank you for joining. My name is Eva, and in the next six modules, I'll be showing
you the basics of fashion design and how
to create new ideas. How to play around with key concepts in order to create the sustainable
where Dre, you have always wanted. This course consists
of six modules. In this first module, I'm going to talk you through what should be in
your setting box. What is the sewing box? What to expect from the
rest of this course, we're going to talk
about materials. And I'm going to also share how to cut patterns from fabric. What is the green line, and how to apply
this to a cotton. In module two, we will
be talking about seeds. I'll be showing
you how to create different kinds of seeds and also hands and how to create good finish
on seeds and hence, how to recognize what is
appropriate and what kind of what seems a stronger, what seems a week come on, how to choose what Interviews. The project module three, we're going to
learn how to create panels on frame template. We're going to be working
with curves and corners. We're going to be working
with a notches away, variety of design
lines and PAN-OS. Margin full we go into in
learning about facings and waste in which we can finish a raw edges on parts
of the government, such as our hands and
neck lines module by talking about data
and how to shake the waste on skirts
and trousers. We are also going to be
talking about panels again, but this time wasted
incorporating that into Alex. And we're going to also learn
how to incorporate does into fullness on skirt
and trousers to create. And finally, Module six, we're going to be talking
about dads again, but this time it will be dat
on bonuses and restless. Are we going to learn
how to construct, how to layer out with bodies staff and move
them around the body to create interesting effects on
whilst achieving good fit. There is no theory going to learn in the next six modules. Let's grab a cup
and del into it.
2. What is a sewing box: I'm going to start with our selling boxes and
what should be yours. First of all, let's explain
what is selling books. Well, go my, my one hand
and a sewing books is like a toolbox for sellers
and fashion designers really. It is filled with all the
tools that you need to create, amazing designs
and doing selling. It saves a lot of
time because it's filled with all the
things they need. And you might be building
it all the time. Or you might just get a really selling books because
they do exist. They're filled with all
things that you need. Today. I'm going to show you the tools that you'll
need for this course. And then you are likely to need all your projects
when it comes to sewing and clashing design. You don't have any of them. I do recommend that you get them because they will be very
useful to you in future. You don't have to have a sewing bones that
looks like mine. You don't have to have
a specialist involved. You could have just a tin, an old biscuit tin
is absolutely fine. Jonathan would selling books. It is though that if
that like this one, a multi-level, you get different compartments.
I'm showing you on. Then you could have different things in the
different compartments and it just helps keep
things tidy and organized. I have a separate sewing
box, my sewing threads, and this one is on my tools on it because I've got
so many threads that I just like to keep
them separately in a box.
3. Sewing box essentials: So let's delve into the essentials that you're going to need for
your sewing box. And then you're going to
need throughout this course. The first thing you're
going to need is pence, pack of pence base, always distention When it comes to sewing and design projects. And they can't be in a
different kind of types. You could have parents that
have got a color form, heads. You could tap things
that are completely entirely made from Mitchell. You can happen by bit shorter and a bit longer presented to a bit sharper that appends
that thicker or thinner. Thing is, if you just get a standard part of
pins, you'll be fine. Now, the reason that things
are different is because if you work with
specialists materials, you'd want to use
different pens. For example, if you're working
with stretch materials, you want pins best
specifically design stretch. But if you just learning and playing
around with these to start with just a standard pack
of dance, find a medium. Know, be sharp enough. I know we're trying to use
you don't need to go to great lengths to get a
specialist pants at this point, the next thing that
you're going to need, fabric scissors, mine don't actually
fit in the sewing box. They're quite big, but
that an essential part of your sewing kit
and fabric scissors, something you need to
really cherish and not used for anything
else, cotton fabric. The reason being is because fabric scissors
get dealt if they used on paper or any
other kind of materials. So keeping them
specifically for fabrics, labeling them so no one else in your household is actually
using them for anything else. Keeping them in your styling, we read more in your books, just locked away and just for your own use is a good idea. Saying this experience because once you land your scissors, you don't know
from our use them. Once you cut paper, we abide with scissors. They get it is too late. So we want to do is always, always use them whole fabric. That professional sharpening
said this is the Euclid. It goes and sees a
sharp variety of them, but it's a heats events in terms of hybrid natural
chapter part of. So the best thing to do I think, is to definitely
take him citizens. They don't mean any chap name
that we often the first, selling books is a
good idea to have a little pad, next,
little scissors. They're good or
trimming threads. They can be always
with you when I work on your soul changes on site. Some people use
them as necklaces, a personal thing that's a bit hazardous in terms of
health and safety. So I was there. I sometimes forget my
citizens, my little scissors. And when I do something, I use my hands. And it's a bad habit. I have picked up and you
do it having two prices. A good idea when it
comes to cutting thread, but also when you're creating
it into little areas like corners control fine
ratings all around. A good idea to have them attend. You also one hand
sewing needles. Hands having needles, essential. When you do actually
find sewing, you'd use how many doors to
stitch things, of course, but also to temp intact
things in place. Because sometimes it's an
old Google some things. And using thread
as a large task is temporary way to put these
two together isn't good idea. And needles are good to have
in different thicknesses. Depending on what
materials you use. Make sure you use the materials chat
that comes from within this module because
that will show you how to work with
different kinds of tunes. What kind of needles you need, what kind of tools Union depending on
the material to use. You don't need to
follow it strictly for the duration of this course because we're just learning, It's a good idea to
familiarize yourself with it because it'll be
useful to you in future. Now, you will need a certain
machine or older modules, except for this one, I'm having a say
she makes you need to have some spares
for that machine. This includes spam
machine meals and spare. Bob and I always have spam. She needed was a stamp
Belbin's in my subject box because it's easy to just
grab an extra when I read it. You could rewind your bobbing some different
colors depending on your project when
used correctly, sewing needles can
actually last a long time. But it is recommended
you actually change your needle every
project because over time, again, delta and it doesn't
just look good job. It really depends on, again on maturity present, on whether the news
compatible with keeping those pins and
when you are sowing. And a joke about this next
week more when we do seats. But I just wanted to mention, it's good to have this
pairs in your inbox. Just now, I keep my threads
separate mediation me, but in my selling books, I have not had wives threads API working
with to that data using white thread
is a good idea of tagging so you can see what's
going on and advise bus. If you went out of material
and you don't have the same thread in terms of color as the material
you can choose, your black shrink,
or vice versa. So quite good is to have
in your Sandbox because you're always likely
to need them for some emergency room,
emergency tax. But all the other threads
you probably won't be able to fit into your selling books because they just saw me. He has these
enriching side-note. You want to use exactly
the same thread color AS the material that you use for your salary and design projects. And ideally, you may not be able to find exactly
the same color, but as close as possible
is a good idea. That's where your class projects
now have some white and some black thread for this course to keep things
together, went stitching. I'm very useful to which
you're going to use a launch. Always as to why we use
a lot is an pickup. It's a very useful tool
because sometimes even on a good day you might have alignment stitching
lag goes off YouTube, basically new term, fake it. If you want to work
using your own clothes, you want unpaid front seats. And you're going to learn
about seems more next week. But essentially an picker is
a really great tool to have, not only for yourself
in InDesign projects, but also from when he worked with young pose to adapt them, to upcycled them to make
them more interesting. And I'm picker will
help you deconstruct things so you could reconstruct them and make
them more interesting. Again, really useful
tool to have. Now operate jokes and I would
pants, I'm potent away. I didn't aligns onto
material that you don't want that people use to use chalks. And that's fine
because the truck gets washed off during
machine or handwashing. And as good if you're working with wool and they
can materials. But these days you can also find operate pens that they
are just temporary views. They using either
water-soluble sheet erasable all my main
grid a erasable months. And they're very good for pinna to medium materials them at night so you could
see the lines better. The downside of Bayes
is that, of course, perhaps it's not the most
sustainable thing to use because George project
disappear while these pens, there are usually a
single use pencil but I'm on you can do use them. The other thing
is that depending on what your material
is coated with, because these days
which you will come in all kinds of coating and then happy processed
in different ways. Depending on the way
that's happened. The pen might not be as effective on the
material they are using. It may be way too
effective as then it may not disappear as
it's intended to send. The best thing to do if you
are using this kind of thing, is to make sure that you test
in advance how the pen is reacting to the material
in the beginning of your object just by
using a scrap piece, just to make sure that it will dissipate
because otherwise, stay smoke and I
damped and you can't use it because it
just straight away. Most values true. Something that you'd
be able to see do not use standard
pens and pencils. Recall, won't be able
to watch them all. And it's just bad
idea to get into that habit even when you are playing around in the
beginning of learning. Because once you have
built his habits, that will be more difficult
to get rid of it. So he's either true or measuring
tape are very important. Isn't a measuring tape is
important not only because you like it to be taking your own measurements,
measurements of people. Measuring tape is also good
when measuring comps work because in modules
34 in particular, it's important to have
a measuring tape. To being able to do that. It's something you always need for all your sewing and
it's not in project. So make sure you
have got one box.
4. Other sewing box tools: Now, besides your essentials, you may also want to add a few alphabets that
will make your life easier when you just
having InDesign. Now, if you are struggling with trading needles,
for example, investing in a thread
or is it a good idea because it makes
this process quick and easy as having one you use 70 books is a good
idea because of this, some people aligned
to use them both. So they don't create the thumbs
when they do have sewing. I'm one of those
people than ever the lunch to do that very well. I first knew on my thumb, if you are the kind of person
who likes using a symbol, be aware that there will be a little bit of hand
sewing in schools, not alone, that
there will be some, maybe a good idea
to have on a hat. Now, you may want, besides the black and white
time to thread the half. You may want to use a tucking. You don't need scissors to
Sonata attacking create, even though it
looks, I think it's actually very easy to snap. And it's very easy to see
because of its thickness. And they come in black
and white as well. So again, engine on the
materials they choose. Having contrasting greens. Good idea of attacking. Talking trend is good. Using pins. You could use batch of
temporary two pieces together. Now, something to be
aware of is that you can use just normal thread
doesn't have to be touching. Something that you
might want to use. Whatever strategy you use
for this kind of thing is a block of wax that can be soy wax and
could be bee's wax. They didn't sing thing. And what they do
is if you'd guide the thread through the block, it makes it wax, it makes it less
prone to tablet. So if you're doing
hand somebody, you're using a longer
piece of thread, it can wax that thread. The needle. You'll find that
somebody is way easier. And something that
I have invested in because I always
find out otherwise that prints just
tangled too much. It makes life easier
not to send show, but it is a good thing to have, especially if you are doing
a lot of hand sewing, enhance attack, and don't
like working hands very much. It's especially used in
tailoring and control. Its height. You definitely need to
have fabric scissors. But some people also like
using rotary cutter. It cutters. I especially
useful if you work with materials valid too
flimsy and that slip a lot. Materials that's a stretchy like Jersey kind of materials. Rotary cutter has caused some material while
since ninth plot, you should have a cutting, not what you don't want to do
is to use a rotary cutter. You don't have a cutting
mat because it's going to destroy this onto. Some people really
like rho two records as prefer them to
Robert scissors, fabric scissors,
always good because they can be difficult
in different things. Rotary, a good cutting
patterns out precisely. And they just likes for
right-handed and left-handed use. They can be quite useful. You like cutting flat, not used to using
Puppet seizes to launch on a road
to a cut himself. I don't actually
use it that often, but something's definitely
ice or you can buy some lawn.
5. Pattern cutting tools: Now besides yourself in kit, something else you'll need is on the tools and that your youth
doing our pattern cutting and less nice because we won't
use paper as well to get a grasp on the concepts that
we've learned to build on, to create designs and
they turn onto material. One of the things you
definitely need as paper and also
paint the seasons. Melbourne can use fabrics
is not paid but good idea, tab up pair of scissors. You also want to have either
masking tape or glue, depending on where
you prefer to use. I have used glue to show
you these things mostly, but generally when I do more
complex pattern cutting, I quite like using masking
tape because it's very easy to peel off if I decided
to move the Sachin, the last multiple two, they're both good ways to start with and bending away
from uncomfortable with. And you could adopt
that day tomorrow, masking tape or bloom. They'll be very useful
during articulate. When you depart and cutting. You also need a shop and still very sharp so
you can get ENSO, which has got graphite
that you could send it to the pencil to compute using those perfect for pattern continues because
they always shop. You could also get
a normal pencil and always have got a pencil
sharpener that are handy because you need to keep
things shot and you also need an eraser slob because my line wrong
in a way intended. There's no point in
using lots of papers. You can just erase the line. So three things they definitely need doing
pattern editing. You also want to have lunch
or go pattern master, which makes life easier if
you do a lot on design. Because they also
has got curves and lines which help with the
addition of elements. And we're going to
learn about later on. To master is really good if you look it up and find that in mind to just see like an expensive series
of measure plastic, but actually is very useful. It's a good investment. I recommend if you are
serious about desire, passion, then you'd
get one by eating, just learning and
playing around, and just dipping your
toe into things. This perfectly fine. You don't need to patch in photography just makes
things a little bit easier. I think someone who
has a long time, you definitely need an island. Because what we're
doing 19, precedent and learning during the
different processes that we'll be learning. Definitely depth.
6. Fabric chat: And we're going to
talk about materials. I'm just going to use your own, the types of materials
you can have. What two other point them
we're going to be talking about patterns and how to cut
patterns onto the material. You have two variables can be different depending
on different. Thanks. So there can be different
based on weight. So they could be lightweight, medium weight or heavyweight. Materials can be different
based on this structure. So they can be woven,
non stretch, knitted. Stretch fabrics can also be natural or synthetic
based on their origin. So they could come from
natural origin like cartoons, lens on silk, or they could be synthetic
and made in a lab. Now, the new age materials
that are quite interesting, they asked him thetic, but they do also have got
natural materials in them. And we're not going to be using
these kinds of materials. They're very new age
and they're very mean. You could leave days. How tall silk made out to orange peel and
hemp, for example. You could have a level may not have mushrooms
or coffee grounds. Even have materials that
are grown in a tub. Fine, but they all sorts of interesting things
happening the fashion world these days when it comes
to sustainability. But what we're most right and choose medium weight materials, I'd recommend calico, which is what a lot actually designs
used to put ideas together. We have samples though, really nice and crisp, and it's very easy to work with. And it's gotten based. And it is also woven material.
7. Interfacing and interfacing variations: Something else that
you're going to need for one of the modules
is interfacing. Interfacing normally made after five is that bomb together. But you can also
be made on fabric. Sometimes we will have GUI, which is on one side and it's
activated during some tree. Sometimes it may not
have any glue TO and you will need to
use trade or attacking create to temporarily
replace it onto the fact that it needs
to be applied to wave underneath material
interface thing is providing stability
to that material and a hands-free shape. The government facings come in different weights
and they can be a lot more flexible and they can be a little bit sturdier. And sometimes you may wish
to use a different kind of fabric which has got similar visual properties as
the material on chocolate. But it's got a lot
more stability. For example, if you are working when tutorials about
are see-through, like a really soft kind
of silk like coupon. If you want to have God's
stability or around shoulders, for example, instead of using interfacing which
will be very visible, see-through materials
such as sheep on, you can use material unlike on cancer because organs
there is also see-through, but it is a very much
a crisp material, so provide extra stability to the shape of the government. But it will not look hard
because it will look very similar to the ship
on mass on top.
8. Woven and stretchy materials: In terms of structure, materials can be woven
and they can be knitted. Native materials,
spreadsheet, so jerseys or whether
they're made from bamboo or Cotton Standard. I've got that kind of structure
that doesn't have golf. Last thing, which makes
them even stretch. You now woven materials
and you have the hand, the tools that don't
stretch a child. And their structure is made out of fibers that interwoven
vertically and horizontally. The horizontal lungs
or across the public. Aware of the writing compilers
walk the angle between the vertical and
horizontal part of this on the wall and
the where is cold. That's the only place
on the material where you've gotten
any two big stretch. Now, let's take a look at material that you
may have just won't find the perfect shot to herbicides will be
cut with scissors. I'm took the size
will be leaked. The slides that was his is a usually the cross
size or the web and the edges of
the needs sides, older more pages of
called salvage edges. The salvage edges I
use shouldn't date, coverage and little dots. That's what indicates the
salvage edge. Salvage edge. And very important
when it comes to cutting patterns out
of the material.
9. What is a grain line and how to create it: This module contains a
template which you can use to play around what
we're going to explore next. What we're going to
explore next is rain. And rain line is something
which you can find on all commercial patterns and something you
need to get used to. I'm adding to your own
patterns also because the green line will
show you how to cut the material onto
the fabric and it is connected to
the salvage gauge. Now first we're going to
create our green light. So print out your
template and cut it out. Then grab your ruler. Or if you haven't missed
in the plateau monster, you can do so too. And draw a line which is perpendicular to the
hand of the pattern. You could draw a little
arrow on top of that. And on commercial patterns
you will find that there maybe an arrow only child
at the bottom of this line. There's also usually didn't
ask right in the middle nine. This is the green line. The green line is usually perpendicular or 90
degrees to the hem. And it's what will
guide you to how you go into cut neural pattern
onto the material.
10. How to position a pattern on fabric: Now let's go to the material
and place our template. The red line is exactly
parallel to the salvage edge. What this means
is that the total of the green line
and the bottom of the green line at exactly the same distance
away from the salvage edge. We can do is either using
your ruler apart to master, or you can also use the measuring tape to
measure the distance from the salvage edge to the green line on the
top of the green light. And that should be the same when you measure the
distance between the salvage edge on the green line at the
bottom of the green line, you might need to
adjust your pattern accordingly to what
I do is I measure the distance between
salvage edge and top of the green line first
and in my pot to net. Then I measured the distance between the salvage
edge and the bottom of the gray line and just the angle of the pattern to make sure it is exactly
the same like on the top. Unless you haven't
just did this, you can cut all the way around. And that's your
patent. It took up.
11. How to cut patterns on the bias: Now the red line can
have a variation. That variation is called buys raining on creating
things on your bias. As I mentioned earlier, you have got but
horizontal fibers onto your world to the
45-degree angle between the two is called
bias and bias angle. That in that particular section, fabric isn't, it's
most, it stretches. When materials are
cut, that ankle, when patterns are
cut and that angle, they actually fall
not really nicely. They have got softness to
the silhouette and it's a very beautiful way of cutting
clump into governments. However, it is more expensive because it does actually
waste more material. And even though the
result is more beautiful, It's not the most
sustainable doing things. However, I will show you
how to do this because you may want to apply this
to your future projects. Where you want to do is
construct if your green line, as we did before,
90 degree angle. And then you could
measure a 45-degree angle from the top of the green line
and redraw the green line. You have got a part of master, that 45 degree is already
shown with a line, so you can use that. And this is a quick cheat way of doing this was done that way. It saves a lot of
time doing that. But once we have redrawn
the green line 45 degrees, we can place our pattern when the new green line parallel
to the salvage change, the pattern will be
turned to non-goal. The new 45 degree green line is parallel to the
salvage change. And then we would want to make sure we adjust the
top and the bottom again like we did with the
regular grain line to make sure both the
top and the bottom of the Ukraine line is
parallel to the salvage edge, then you can cut your pattern. Now. You will find
that we have cut both pieces that not only
do live whole differently, you will find that the wave
goes in different ways. One of the weeks is going across I'm vertical walls
on the bias Cut Piece. They go into court
by a degree and also the actual wave looks
a little bit different.
12. What have we learnt so far, homework and what's to come in Module 2 : Now that we have learnt what we need in
our selling books, how to create a gray line, how to cut patches out of
fabric and what fabrics like. I'd like you to
familiarize yourself with the chatbot Halford
page for this module. Familiarize yourself
with all breaks. Make sure that you
have everything they need for sewing box ready. Or next module? Next module will
be seems module. We will learn different sees, love for how to construct them. Enough material. And you are showing
a basic as well as selling chain to what went. I recommend that you
invest and Calico as choice for this
beginner's course, because it's easy
enough to quit. It doesn't stretch
and it is nice, medium kind of lenses, sturdy. And Chris, they created
at the next module.
13. Module 1 Bonus - gathering inspiration: Welcome to your
first bonus video. With each module, you will
get a little video with some extra tips depending on
what the module is about. And they're not
compulsory things, but they're just a
little bit extra wanted to add that you're welcome to take just to
learn a little bit more. This week, I'll be easy on you, and I just wanted to touch on details and
gathering inspiration. You will be learning quite
a lot in the next modules. And we'll be taking girls. Some of it will be using your own creativity to
play around with ideas. Meanwhile, it's a good idea to start gathering inspiration, started building a little folder with things that you see, whether that's digital
folder on your phone or your tablet computer or
on your Pinterest page, whether that is scrapbook, depending on whether
that's what you prefer. I'm more of a folded person, Like sketchbooks to
buffing with Folgers. It's quite good because
you can just have little sections with
different details. We can do is if you come across something that you
really like in terms of details like commas or details like waistline
or sleeves, etc. You could start
cutting things out or saving things to
your digital folders. And just start
creating this kind of board of inspiration
if you like, because you will find
that maybe that, let's say turtleneck top can have completely different
Nick line and be transformed. Once you learn how to do certain things that
we'll be showing you, this will be an
easy thing to do. And if you have got some visual referral system where it's not like you're
copying things exactly, but you can see something
and that can give you an idea to apply some things similar to
what you already have. So it's a really good idea to start early with this stuff. You will find that the more you find in terms of
interesting ideas, the more you want
to do these things, the more excited you get. So the more you want to learn and to do well, it's a really, really great in terms of motivation when it
comes to selling. And just go into the next
level and then rewind. And it keeps things interesting. I hope this little chip has inspired you and
that you will start building your phone
does not only for your technical
side it would cause, but awesome for just a
little extra inspiration.
Eva Dragoeva, Fashion Designer
