Introduction to Sustainable Fashion and Sewing - Module 5 - Darts on Skirts and Trousers | Eva Dragoeva | Skillshare

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Introduction to Sustainable Fashion and Sewing - Module 5 - Darts on Skirts and Trousers

teacher avatar Eva Dragoeva, Fashion Designer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      What is a dart


    • 3.

      How to create darts for a good fit


    • 4.

      Moving darts along the waistline


    • 5.

      Multiplying darts


    • 6.

      Waist shaping on the side


    • 7.

      Working with darts and panels


    • 8.

      Working with horizontal panels


    • 9.

      Working with asymmetrical designs


    • 10.

      How to stitch a plain dart


    • 11.

      Final thoughts and homework


    • 12.

      Module 5 bonus


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About This Class

This is Module 5 of my beginner fashion and sewing course for sustainable fashion lovers. In this module we are going to learn about darts on the waistline of skirts and trousers. You will learn what a dart is, how to get creative with darts and achieve a good fit and how to stitch a dart. 

This is a technical module that's mostly paper based although there is a bit of sewing involved too.

To help you with the pattern cutting section of this module - you can download a printable template for sample making here.

You can also download the evaluation sheet for stitching darts to reflect on your progress.

Meet Your Teacher

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Eva Dragoeva

Fashion Designer

Level: Beginner

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1. Introduction: Welcome to Module five. Week five. This week we are going to be exploring and dads, and in particular, dad's along the waistline on trousers cuts. And let's delve into it. 2. What is a dart: First of all, what is the dad? Dad is a little folds that we pinch section of government where we want to eliminate iz and create shape. It's infusion this tension that angle from a wider section 2. Today we're going to work on paper mostly. And I will also show you how to stitch it at. Once. We know how that work. Once you know how to create that on paper, you will be able to visualize this on your clothes and you could work straight on your clothes, you can wish to do so. Let's get going. 3. How to create darts for a good fit: The first thing I'm going to do is delve into the concept of dance and how they are there to shape a garment. And to do that, I'll show you on my Manichean how from an A4 size paper, I can create a little cut block. I suggest that you do the same exercise using the measurements that I'm going to use. Just to get into the mode of creating data. Once we have done this, you can print out your template for this module, which is a skirt. And we can use that to create that data variation. I'm going to show you and all the exciting things that you can do with data. The first thing I'm going to do is take a piece of paper and fold it in half and length ways right in the middle. This will create a crease, which is good, a guideline. I'm then going to place my sheet of paper on top of my mind kid, with one of the short sides lining up with the waste and the mid-line increase that have just created. I'm going to line up the middle of the monk. And then if I actually press along the waistline and find that God exists on both sides. This is because the sheet is bigger than the front. Waste of my mind. I appreciate that you don't have money kids at home. So just bearing me, using this just as a way to visualize how that's left. Now, the extra that I have on either side of the Manichean, I have mentioned in 1.5 centimeters. This means that my A4 sheet of paper, centimeters wider than the front waist up my mannequin, and could have alternatively measured the current waste of my Manichean, measured the weight of the A4 sheet of paper, and then taken the ways to the mannequin measurement off of that. And now it's still giving me three centimeters. Three centimeters and need to be eliminated. But we can't just cut them off because the A4 sheet of paper is actually pretty flat. And Alba cans body is three-dimensional. This is where does come into play. So a dad not only eliminates ease that we don't want that certain places where it also shapes and I'm going to go ahead and construct a dad either side of the front. I'm also going to shade the side of my A4 sheet of paper which will become the basis for my skirt part. To do this, I'm going to measure equal amounts away from that middle crease I created in the beginning on the sheet. It's up to you how phi go could be three centimeters, five centimeters, completely up to you. But it should be the same on both sides to go ahead and create those markings. The next thing we're going to do is we're going to play around with how it can distribute the measurements. A well-balanced gun design and tab. The amount they need to take all of an area distributed in a way that doesn't make you look odd. I mean, by this is that we don't want to take off 2.5 centimeters from the left side, for example, and only five millimeters from right. We've got three centimeters. Want to distribute them correctly or same well, neither side, which means that we're going to have that and go 1.5 centimeters to play with on either side of the front. Go ahead and grab your pattern masters or your rootless measure down. Right angle, the 90 degree angle, straight down at six centimeters. Just like I've done here. Do this on both. I've used a very light line, doesn't need to be really, really strong lines will be just a phone line, a term. What I'm going to do then is take one centimeter for each side to apply to the data. I know we have a whole centimeter. Let me, let's construct our debts. Starting with one dot at a time. Find the monkey they have created on one side. And then my five millimeters on either side of that. This will make the distance. From one of the end markings to the other. One centimeter. Exactly the same on the outside. The initial markings that we created now, the middle of our data, I chose to create a point at the bottom of the dads just to visualize the data. It's a GTO, how to create a point. But a lot of time and dad is a point, so it's good to my mom. And then what you're going to do is then connect the markings on either side of the middle line. On the top alone, the waste or the top of our sheet. Two points, one by one, just like I have done here. And what you end up having is a shape on either side of our center line, two dots, two shapes that are coming at an angle, their dads. Now, another thing that we want to do is we're going to distribute that extra centimeter. That will happen. Because remember, our A4 sheet of paper was three centimeters bigger than the weight of the model. Again, this means that we now have two dads, one centimeter h, which equals two centimeters, and it leaves us with a whole centimeter extra. Now, I could have had the dots at 1.5 centimeters each. That's allowed as long as we have. What is our total data allowance that three centimeters distributed somewhere, that's fine. But what we're going to do is we're going to make things a little bit more balanced. And to do this, we're going to distribute that extra centimeter and take them off from sides. Now, we don't want you to take the whole centimeter just on one side because we want this to be distributed evenly. So what we want is to take half a centimeter either side of our pattern. Because the side of your body where you want to do is to also the site seeing or what will be a sightseeing on. So if you mark half a centimeter in from the edges of the shape, just like I've done here. And then make little markings six centimeters down. It doesn't have to be six centimeters by the way, this is just an estimate. Talk about this in a moment. But once you have created those markings on either side, you can either take pageant master because it's got nice curved edge on one side and use that to insert. Or you could draw curve connecting to my creative minds side. Just by hand. We now want to cut down the x's that's on the site, like millimeters on either side because we don't need those. And we also want you to fold our dots using the midline. So we have creatinine as a point where we are holding. Now, if I take my mannequin and plays the sheet of paper on it, I find that not only does it fit on the waist, but it also has created three dimensions. Shape, which fits nicely on the three-dimensional body, our mannequin. And certainly you can see that a very practical and very important to know about, if you have got garments that are not fitting quite right along the waste. It the same applies with skirts, trousers. Then what you want to do is it said that you could measure your waist, measure the garment, then take your waist measurements off of the waist measurement of the government. And the excess is your total data mounts to do what you like, what meaning you could to create a variation of data all the way along the waistline. And this is the next thing that we'll be doing. Make sure that you have printed out this week's template for hours. And if you haven't been able to, just so you could actually use your sheet of paper that you have just created. But I suggest if you can print the template and create a few copies to do so because you could keep building your folder and M sample unique. And it will show you two things. 4. Moving darts along the waistline: Let's move some data around the waistline. If you have printed your template, you'll notice that they are already dad's on the actual template. And this is to make things a bit quicker, be easier for you. What we want to do is want to decide where we want to move our data. So again, it's completely up to you whether you want to move the data further away towards the sides or a bit further towards the center. Let's say we're going to move them towards the sides. Again as we did before. We'll want to make markings to signify the middle points about dots. And they to be equal amounts on either side. From the center line. On the template, I have marked the center line so you don't have to create it on every time and it's live right in the middle. Dad, at one centimeter. The top we'll want to do is to move that nation from one part of the waste to Deana, the length of the existing data. And then using a right angle, the 90 degree angle, down a line from the middle markings they have. What will be the dads. So what I want to do knowing that my data is one centimeter away. For each side. I'm going to measure on either side of the marking that I have just created five millimeters, just like we reach it out. Plus that Jill this on both the left and the right side. And then connect the markings on either side of those lines long. The points of the data. Just like what we have done now, is eliminated the data that we had so we could cross those off and we have moved further away towards the sides of. This method can be used on both. I'm trousers on the front and the back. You can move them in a way that you want. It can be very close to the center category clusters is completely up to you. So you could make another sample using the same technique, but leaving the data in different locations just to get used to the idea of moving down. 5. Multiplying darts: Now that you know how to move data, let's explore another idea won't happen if we create multiple tasks using Joseph dies and we have already, what I mean by that. We could change the amount of data that we have. We don't have to have that. We can tap for dads. ****. So let's start with for tax. Taken out a copy of your template to retrace. Haven't done so already. We're going to use the one centimeter a data, again as a guideline. And we going to make two dots for each side away from the center line. So two dots on the right side. On the left side. What we want to bear in mind is that our data alone should stay the same. So if we're working with one centimeter side, that needs to be the case at all times no matter how many dots. So if I want to dance, I can have each of them five millimeters or have the centimeter wave undertone to five millimeters centimeter on the top, we take exactly the same amount fabric as the one centimeter and I'm going to make a mark on either side of my dad, 1 12th Enterprise. Want where's the site? And I'm going to do that on both sides of the garden. Is the length of the existing data as a guideline, how long you want your dots to d squared down the marking they had made using the same name. Then measured 2.5 millimeters the night side of the line. I've created chart on both the new data, which will give a charge of paths and reach that. Then as before, the weight of each dot, each line to both sides of it, the markings they have created and you should have too narrow a dad with the same name as the original data. You could cross off the original data and the sketch of the waste the same way, the original data with the two new dads. Because take on that side, view governments, you might have more exits on the side. And let's exodus towards the center. So that means that you probably want to have longer dots on sites and shorten that to what? The tummy area. And this one, because the longer the data, the more fabric it takes. So if you have more access, wants to take more fabrics and your dad longer, That's completely up to you. You can read a sample just so you get used to the idea and the dads don't need to be the same length. They can be longer and shorter. And along the time, along the back, find dots which are different lengths. So they can vary. It could be that one of your dad is two centimeters shorter, Indiana. He couldn't be that one of the dots is essentially to longer than the original data and the other debt is essentially just shorter. In practice, if you're doing pinching things by hand, have got a gun and that all in one chart. Dance to it. You will have to do this by hand and it won't be quite so much. But it's important to understand Matson bit so we know we need to do with dads. July, I decided to do this this way and show me using contaminate. 6. Waist shaping on the side: Another thing that we can do is to take out the data from the sides. And that is something that you can do. Your dad's a notch to mind. You need to do is measure your dad's. In our case, our dads are a centimeter on either side using our original template. And then what we're going to do is measure on either side from the sides. Assigned to me to run both on the left and on the right, then you could slightly prom that marking that you're not creating a down to about the length of the original data. You could cross out the existing tasks. So this part will have no data. And the data clowns has all gone to the sides. Now the problem with that is that unless the silhouette of the body is really good, which could be the case. But for a lot of people, it isn't, then the design might not look very good. Because what you're doing is you're creating a very, very curved line to the sides. And the problem with this is that it might look really odd way in mind, not fit very well. So this is something that we ideally would do, and I'll show you a way in which you could get away with it by doing things but until that later. But if your data is smaller and they don't create quite as harsh curve, then you can move them out from the sides teams. But it is something that you don't want it to only with narrow dad's, not with the ways to do this actually. 7. Working with darts and panels: Now in module three, if you remember, we worked with panels and I think that was quite fun module. We go into animals again and we're going to this time incorporate our data. And this is quite exciting because it can lead to limitation. Again, make sure that you have a few templates from the origin to that. Complete this module and have them all out and ready. I'm going to show you what we can do next. First, let's play around with symmetrical panels. First of all, we can do is draw a piano anywhere we want in the pattern. Working just on one side, choose where you want your panel to be and make a marking. The waistline. It is up to you. Wayne wanted to say it could be two words. And then draw down a line, straight line down towards the hair to create which is perpendicular to the handle. Now, what we want to do is to move out because it'll be a bit odd to have panel and then to have a dad as well normally have either one or the other, but not both together right next to one another because it looks like. So we want to do is move the data as we have done previously. And it's less than your data, should be at one centimeter. So you want to measure five milliliters or half a centimeter on either side of the waist is then created their tone mocking further down, depending on how long the original data is. Then connect. Either marking on the top with that mark at the bottom of what our data we have just moved. Remember from module three, notches are very important when it comes to panels. So go ahead and insert some notches all the way along. You can cut along the line. And our little dad will be technically cut out. It will be eliminated completely, but our panel will be curved going different directions of the chopper. Nice site and it will be laid stitch stitched. The curve will create the three-dimensionality that we want to fit our waste. You can also incorporate the data that's already existing into a panel. I need to do is to extend the center line. Dad down all the way to the hand, the notches, and then cut along the line starting from the hand and then cutting out the data section, curving slightly where the point of the data's like we did before to make it a little bit more fluid. And on either side, you should again have a panel instead of a dat, where you have got the panels slightly curved at the top, taking the same amount of fabric out, creating three-dimensionality. This time instead of a dot and have a panel which would give the government and different detected. You can as before, just draw a panel any way that you want on the sky, just like you did with the tunic in Module three, is just that if you have data, you also need to think about how to incorporate them into panels so you can mix and match. You could have panels which incorporate data. And you can have panels that more freehand and don't have any dads. And then on the same item. 8. Working with horizontal panels: Let's do something simple. Let's take our master or a rumor and then create a horizontal line. So not vertical or horizontal line, which touches the tip of the data, just like I have done here, what we want to do is then add some notches and then cut along the line. Once we've done that, we could close our data by folding it and sticking it together using masking tape or glue. And we'll find is that I will lie on one side, straight, on the bottom. On the top, you have curved. So our data is effectively still be incorporated in this new panel. And if you place the curved side of the panel where the straight side of panel, you'll find that there's still folder that has been taken out. 9. Working with asymmetrical designs: You can also create asymmetrical designs whilst still eliminating dads. For this, you need to make sure that the damage one side is incorporated either in the side same or as part of the data we keep. One of the things that you can do is to take the one centimeter data where we have on one side and then add five millimeters on either side of the data that we keep paying and incorporating into a scene later. And then once we've made those markings by millimeters on either side of the data. We can then connect the tip of the data to those markings, cross off the data that we have eliminated, then extending a line from the tip of the dad down on the way to the hand, adding our notches and then cutting along the lines. This will be fine. But remember earlier, we didn't mentioned that ideally, you would want to distribute to that allowance more evenly, so it looks more balanced. In this case, I could do different things. By example, if I take the dot that I don't want anymore, I can split it into two equal halves, half a centimeter. Each. One of those half centimeter, I could split between the two sides. So takeoff 2.5 millimeters from either side and the other five millimeters, I could add another side of the dot, dot keeping a spot of the same 2.5 millimeters on either side of that data. This way, things will look a little bit more balanced. I can do the same by splitting the data that one or not in equal measures, but in four millimeters, six millimeters, because that's easier mathematically. So that I could take out three millimeters from either side and then two from either side of the actual DAT or vice versa, Take two millimeters, come either side on the side seams, and then three millimeters on either side of the data. Either way, we will be taking that one centimeter and redistributing it in different ways, the waste will always be the same because the channel to adapt allowance is also the same no matter where it is along the waste. Once we have decided which option to go for, we could do the same as we did before. Extend the tip of the data that we're keeping with a line all the way down to the hand, adding a notches and then cutting along the line, making sure we take out the data section itself. Having a sharp edge where the tip of the data was. Always, always make sure you add your seam allowances or when you create panels, or whether you incorporate dads or not. As you may remember, in module three, That's what we did quite a lot and it's no different in this case. Things to remember, again, seam allowance. Always have your grain line in place. Always add your seam allowances. When you're working with panels. You can add as many panels as you like. And some panels could have dad's incorporated and gum and some may not. 10. How to stitch a plain dart: Welcome to the selling part of this module. We're going to learn how to stitch complained that grab a few pieces of fabric. Because it's likely they need to create more than one sample and get your machine ready in a similar way to the way we have drawn that on our template, we are going to draw a dad using public pen onto the fabric in damage could be a little bit wider and longer, is up to you. How wide and long you want it to be. You can try different lengths and widths and see how that is different when you are selling. Once you have drawn your dad for your first sample, fold, right sides together. The fabric, the middle of the data center line is bright on the actual folder and then pin along the diagonal lacking self the data, making sure that you match up both lies on the top. And you can then go to your machine. And you want to start from the widest part of the data. You want to line up. So the needle is on the top of the diagonal line at its widest, using a back stitch in the beginning, and then keep going using a medium stitch. When you reach the bottom of the data towards the tip, you want to stop with the needle into the fabric, approximately a few stitches away from the very bottom of the tip. Then you want to have the foot up whilst the needle we still in fabric and then straighten fabric. So now you'll be stitching very close to the phone. You want to need them to be about that distance from the phone. So this might be a little bit fiddly. Be sure to work slowly and even use the hand wheel instead of the pedal to make sure the speed that you're working with this very slow. Once you have made sure they have straightened your fabric and you now we'll be working with a straight line. Make sure that you put the foot down, make sure that you go in a straight line, two to three stitches and using, and we'll at the end do not backstitch. Simply pull the fabric away using some excess thread at the bottom and cut off, making sure that you have an app for it to work with. What I tend to do is I simply tie the two ends and then trim and then press one side, making sure things look nice and crisp. This may be a little bit fiddly because of the three-dimensionality that you have created on track and use a different length and a different width that see how that compares. Some would be easier than others depending on the angle they have chosen, the web from the data that you have chosen, the length of the data that you have chosen. Make sure that you evaluate your samples with a sample evaluation sheet that comes with this module. And make sure that you write down any questions you have, which you write down what's gone? Well, we can write down what's gone wrong and how you can make it work better next time. 11. Final thoughts and homework: I hope you have enjoyed this module and I hope you have found it useful once you start understanding that a little bit more, after creating samples, after playing around with the patterns, you will be able to apply your knowledge on your own clothes. You can, provided the fabric allows it on pig, it does move that excess fabric along the waistline. You can also split that allowance into multiple dads or eliminated by introducing design lines and panels that are there for a reason, that's there for a purpose. Data are there to add three-dimensionality to a government. But you can also have data on all sides designs just because they look interesting and can be interesting detail. So you don't have to use them just because you want to have something close fitting. But you can also use them purely because visually interesting. So you can use them on your jackets, on big coat. Just as little details that make things that much more interesting work. There are two things I'd like you to do. One, I want you to play around with patterns using the template provided and go over the things that we have covered and play around, have fun with it to see what other things you could do when it comes to dads, how many data, more data you could split the existing data into maybe more panels you can create and how many more ideas you could come up with when it comes to data and incorporating on your skirt template. The other thing that I'd like you to do is to print out your sheet for evaluation or your dad sample that's helping dads are the small pieces of fabric and make sure each is a better than the previous one. If you are struggling with anything, make sure that you mark that on your sheet. I look forward to seeing you on the next module. Until then, stay creative. 12. Module 5 bonus: We have learned so much about dads on waste lines when it comes to trousers and skirts. And I wanted to quickly show you another way in which you can eliminate two dads are also using the data to create foreigners at the bottom of the scourge of trouser, thus creating a nice flat. You could have more asymmetrical, almost symmetrical design depending on where your dad's, how long the waistline. So if you have delta-9 side of the, for example, equal amounts away from standard prompt. Where you can do is draw a line from the tip of each data down to the hand. Then cut along that line, stop paying on the tip of each that all the dots and stick them down. Using a piece of paper. You could fill the space that has been opened. Then the bit at the bottom that's been open, you find that can be quite a lot in the adapt was quite small. Can then be alone. That's creating a new curve, tan line on both sides. After having stuck the paper and shaped the hand, you can cut the excess paint. That will create not only fit in ways where you don't need to stitch any dads, but will also give you a really lovely fullness at the bottom. I appreciate this would not be possible with existing skirts using the same material because you'd have to cut into this where you can actually add extra path-breaking, make interesting triangular patch works. Choose to do so. Another thing they can do is to move the two dads that you have, for example, the data on template right in the center, for example, and move them under the same data. So if you have a one centimeter and dodge and I'll send, you could create a two centimeter dot on the center. You can also create a 1.6 centimeter data and take a couple of millimeters of waistline and it's up to you really. The bigger the data, the biggest lab. And then you can draw a line from the tip of that in your own way down to there, and cut along that line up to the point of the data, to the data, then all the dad and stick it together. Thus opening the section on the bottom, I am creating a big player and center. Now if you do this kind of thing, I mean, you could have the Datanode, the center, you can tabulate it just on one side and had a big down just on one side. And then you'd create an even more interesting asymmetrical kind of fullness. Well, one side, you wouldn't have any wholeness. But on the other side you will have an interesting kind of Red Bull if you like. It. It's a really great thing to play with with art and see the difference. So again, you tap paper underneath the section that has been opened. You'd stick that together to the paper and make sure that you cover along the hand line, again, eliminating the excess paper, cutting that off, and thus creating that new pattern. If you want something a little bit more, shall we say, even all the way, You could the existing data into smaller dads. For example, if you have a centimeter down tonight site and that equals two centimeters, you could split into reading a few really small dance. It doesn't actually matter how many dads, and you just need to draw a line which connects the tip of the damage to the hand for each NADH. Then cut along these lines, folding and the dots and sticking them together that will shape the waistline eyes as well. And it will open into sections and the buttons, while some smaller than that small section will still be bigger than what you had up here at the waist. So for example, if you have for dads and four sections, you have parts of that curtain, the budget and where you'll create fullness. If you have 567, same, It's the majority have the more fullness you can create evenly all the way around. The bigger the dad, but less dad's b could have flare created in one section, two section. That's a little bigger for that particular section, all these ways will read it, finds a silhouette and political fold differently. So if you have had good fun playing around with data along the waistline, moving them, and splitting them and putting them together like we did in creating patterns as well. I believe will really enjoy having a go at this. I hope you have found this interesting. I will see you at the next module.