Transcripts
1. Introduction: Welcome to Module five. Week five. This week we are going to
be exploring and dads, and in particular, dad's along the waistline on trousers cuts. And let's delve into it.
2. What is a dart: First of all, what is the dad? Dad is a little folds
that we pinch section of government where we want to eliminate iz and create shape. It's infusion this tension that angle from a
wider section 2. Today we're going to
work on paper mostly. And I will also show you
how to stitch it at. Once. We know how that work. Once you know how to
create that on paper, you will be able
to visualize this on your clothes and you could work straight
on your clothes, you can wish to do so. Let's get going.
3. How to create darts for a good fit: The first thing
I'm going to do is delve into the
concept of dance and how they are there
to shape a garment. And to do that, I'll show you on my Manichean how from
an A4 size paper, I can create a little cut block. I suggest that you do the same exercise using the measurements that
I'm going to use. Just to get into the
mode of creating data. Once we have done this, you can print out your
template for this module, which is a skirt. And we can use that to
create that data variation. I'm going to show
you and all the exciting things that
you can do with data. The first thing
I'm going to do is take a piece of paper and fold it in half and length
ways right in the middle. This will create a crease, which is good, a guideline. I'm then going to
place my sheet of paper on top of my mind kid, with one of the short
sides lining up with the waste and the
mid-line increase that have just created. I'm going to line up
the middle of the monk. And then if I actually press along the waistline and find that God exists
on both sides. This is because the sheet
is bigger than the front. Waste of my mind. I appreciate that you don't
have money kids at home. So just bearing me, using this just as a way to
visualize how that's left. Now, the extra that I have on either side
of the Manichean, I have mentioned in
1.5 centimeters. This means that my
A4 sheet of paper, centimeters wider than the
front waist up my mannequin, and could have alternatively measured the current
waste of my Manichean, measured the weight of
the A4 sheet of paper, and then taken the ways to the mannequin
measurement off of that. And now it's still giving
me three centimeters. Three centimeters and
need to be eliminated. But we can't just
cut them off because the A4 sheet of paper is
actually pretty flat. And Alba cans body is
three-dimensional. This is where does
come into play. So a dad not only eliminates ease that we don't
want that certain places where it also shapes and
I'm going to go ahead and construct a dad
either side of the front. I'm also going to shade
the side of my A4 sheet of paper which will become
the basis for my skirt part. To do this, I'm going to
measure equal amounts away from that middle crease I created in the
beginning on the sheet. It's up to you how phi go
could be three centimeters, five centimeters,
completely up to you. But it should be the
same on both sides to go ahead and create
those markings. The next thing we're going
to do is we're going to play around with how it can
distribute the measurements. A well-balanced gun
design and tab. The amount they
need to take all of an area distributed in a way that doesn't
make you look odd. I mean, by this is that
we don't want to take off 2.5 centimeters
from the left side, for example, and only five
millimeters from right. We've got three centimeters. Want to distribute
them correctly or same well, neither side, which means that we're
going to have that and go 1.5 centimeters to play with
on either side of the front. Go ahead and grab your pattern masters or
your rootless measure down. Right angle, the
90 degree angle, straight down at
six centimeters. Just like I've done here. Do this on both. I've used a very light line, doesn't need to be really, really strong lines will be
just a phone line, a term. What I'm going to
do then is take one centimeter for each
side to apply to the data. I know we have a
whole centimeter. Let me, let's
construct our debts. Starting with one dot at a time. Find the monkey they have
created on one side. And then my five millimeters
on either side of that. This will make the distance. From one of the end
markings to the other. One centimeter. Exactly the same on the outside. The initial markings
that we created now, the middle of our data, I chose to create a point at the bottom of the dads just
to visualize the data. It's a GTO, how to
create a point. But a lot of time
and dad is a point, so it's good to my mom. And then what you're
going to do is then connect the markings on either
side of the middle line. On the top alone, the waste
or the top of our sheet. Two points, one by one, just like I have done here. And what you end up
having is a shape on either side of
our center line, two dots, two shapes that are coming at an
angle, their dads. Now, another thing
that we want to do is we're going to distribute
that extra centimeter. That will happen. Because remember, our
A4 sheet of paper was three centimeters bigger than
the weight of the model. Again, this means that
we now have two dads, one centimeter h, which
equals two centimeters, and it leaves us with a
whole centimeter extra. Now, I could have had the
dots at 1.5 centimeters each. That's allowed as
long as we have. What is our total
data allowance that three centimeters distributed
somewhere, that's fine. But what we're going to
do is we're going to make things a little
bit more balanced. And to do this, we're
going to distribute that extra centimeter and
take them off from sides. Now, we don't want you to take the whole centimeter
just on one side because we want this to
be distributed evenly. So what we want is to
take half a centimeter either side of our pattern. Because the side of your
body where you want to do is to also the site seeing or what will
be a sightseeing on. So if you mark half a centimeter in from the edges of the shape, just like I've done here. And then make little markings
six centimeters down. It doesn't have to be six
centimeters by the way, this is just an estimate. Talk about this in a moment. But once you have created
those markings on either side, you can either take pageant
master because it's got nice curved edge on one side
and use that to insert. Or you could draw
curve connecting to my creative minds side. Just by hand. We now want to cut down the
x's that's on the site, like millimeters on either side because we don't need those. And we also want you to fold
our dots using the midline. So we have creatinine as a
point where we are holding. Now, if I take my mannequin and plays
the sheet of paper on it, I find that not only does
it fit on the waist, but it also has created
three dimensions. Shape, which fits nicely on the three-dimensional
body, our mannequin. And certainly you
can see that a very practical and very
important to know about, if you have got garments that are not fitting quite
right along the waste. It the same applies
with skirts, trousers. Then what you want to do is it said that you could
measure your waist, measure the garment, then take your waist measurements off of the waist measurement
of the government. And the excess is your total data mounts
to do what you like, what meaning you could to create a variation of data all the
way along the waistline. And this is the next thing
that we'll be doing. Make sure that you have printed out this week's
template for hours. And if you haven't been able to, just so you could actually
use your sheet of paper that you
have just created. But I suggest if you can print the template and create
a few copies to do so because you
could keep building your folder and M sample unique. And it will show you two things.
4. Moving darts along the waistline: Let's move some data
around the waistline. If you have printed
your template, you'll notice that
they are already dad's on the actual template. And this is to make
things a bit quicker, be easier for you. What we want to do is want to decide where we want
to move our data. So again, it's completely up to you whether you want to move the data further away towards the sides or a bit further
towards the center. Let's say we're going to
move them towards the sides. Again as we did before. We'll want to make markings to signify the middle
points about dots. And they to be equal
amounts on either side. From the center line. On the template, I have marked the center line
so you don't have to create it on every time and it's live
right in the middle. Dad, at one centimeter. The top we'll want
to do is to move that nation from one part
of the waste to Deana, the length of the existing data. And then using a right angle, the 90 degree angle, down a line from the
middle markings they have. What will be the dads. So what I want to
do knowing that my data is one centimeter away. For each side. I'm
going to measure on either side of the
marking that I have just created five millimeters, just like we reach it out. Plus that Jill this on both
the left and the right side. And then connect the markings on either side of those lines long. The points of the data. Just like what we have done now, is eliminated the data that we had so we
could cross those off and we have moved further
away towards the sides of. This method can be used on both. I'm trousers on the
front and the back. You can move them in
a way that you want. It can be very close to the center category clusters
is completely up to you. So you could make another sample using
the same technique, but leaving the data in
different locations just to get used to the
idea of moving down.
5. Multiplying darts: Now that you know
how to move data, let's explore another
idea won't happen if we create multiple tasks using Joseph dies
and we have already, what I mean by that. We could change the amount
of data that we have. We don't have to have that. We can tap for dads. ****. So let's start with for tax. Taken out a copy of your
template to retrace. Haven't done so already. We're going to use the
one centimeter a data, again as a guideline. And we going to make two dots for each side
away from the center line. So two dots on the right side. On the left side. What we want to bear in mind is that our data alone
should stay the same. So if we're working with
one centimeter side, that needs to be the case at all times no matter
how many dots. So if I want to dance, I can have each of them
five millimeters or have the centimeter wave undertone to five millimeters
centimeter on the top, we take exactly the
same amount fabric as the one centimeter and I'm going to make a mark on either side of my
dad, 1 12th Enterprise. Want where's the site? And I'm going to do that on
both sides of the garden. Is the length of the existing
data as a guideline, how long you want your dots to d squared down the marking they had made
using the same name. Then measured 2.5 millimeters
the night side of the line. I've created chart on
both the new data, which will give a charge
of paths and reach that. Then as before, the
weight of each dot, each line to both sides of it, the markings they have
created and you should have too narrow a dad with the same name as
the original data. You could cross off
the original data and the sketch of the
waste the same way, the original data with
the two new dads. Because take on that side, view governments, you might
have more exits on the side. And let's exodus
towards the center. So that means that you
probably want to have longer dots on sites and
shorten that to what? The tummy area. And this one, because
the longer the data, the more fabric it takes. So if you have more access, wants to take more fabrics
and your dad longer, That's completely up to you. You can read a sample
just so you get used to the idea and the dads don't
need to be the same length. They can be longer and shorter. And along the time,
along the back, find dots which are
different lengths. So they can vary. It could be that one of your dad is two centimeters
shorter, Indiana. He couldn't be that one of
the dots is essentially to longer than the original data and the other debt is
essentially just shorter. In practice, if you're doing
pinching things by hand, have got a gun and
that all in one chart. Dance to it. You will have to do this by hand and it won't
be quite so much. But it's important to
understand Matson bit so we know we need to do with dads. July, I decided to do this this way and show me
using contaminate.
6. Waist shaping on the side: Another thing that
we can do is to take out the data
from the sides. And that is something
that you can do. Your dad's a notch to mind. You need to do is
measure your dad's. In our case, our dads
are a centimeter on either side using our
original template. And then what we're
going to do is measure on either
side from the sides. Assigned to me to run both on
the left and on the right, then you could slightly
prom that marking that you're not creating a down to about the length
of the original data. You could cross out
the existing tasks. So this part will have no data. And the data clowns has
all gone to the sides. Now the problem with
that is that unless the silhouette of the
body is really good, which could be the case. But for a lot of
people, it isn't, then the design might
not look very good. Because what you're doing
is you're creating a very, very curved line to the sides. And the problem with
this is that it might look really
odd way in mind, not fit very well. So this is something that
we ideally would do, and I'll show you a way in
which you could get away with it by doing things
but until that later. But if your data is smaller and they don't
create quite as harsh curve, then you can move them
out from the sides teams. But it is something that you don't want it to only
with narrow dad's, not with the ways to
do this actually.
7. Working with darts and panels: Now in module three,
if you remember, we worked with panels and I think that was quite fun module. We go into animals again
and we're going to this time incorporate our data. And this is quite exciting because it can lead
to limitation. Again, make sure that you have a few templates from
the origin to that. Complete this module and
have them all out and ready. I'm going to show you
what we can do next. First, let's play around
with symmetrical panels. First of all, we can do is draw a piano anywhere
we want in the pattern. Working just on one side, choose where you
want your panel to be and make a marking.
The waistline. It is up to you. Wayne wanted to say it
could be two words. And then draw down a line, straight line down
towards the hair to create which is
perpendicular to the handle. Now, what we want to do is to move out because
it'll be a bit odd to have panel
and then to have a dad as well normally have
either one or the other, but not both together right next to one another
because it looks like. So we want to do is move the data as we
have done previously. And it's less than your data, should be at one centimeter. So you want to measure five milliliters or half a
centimeter on either side of the waist is then created their tone
mocking further down, depending on how long
the original data is. Then connect. Either marking on the
top with that mark at the bottom of what our
data we have just moved. Remember from module three, notches are very important
when it comes to panels. So go ahead and insert some
notches all the way along. You can cut along the line. And our little dad will
be technically cut out. It will be eliminated
completely, but our panel will be curved going different
directions of the chopper. Nice site and it will be
laid stitch stitched. The curve will create the three-dimensionality that
we want to fit our waste. You can also
incorporate the data that's already
existing into a panel. I need to do is to
extend the center line. Dad down all the way to
the hand, the notches, and then cut along the line
starting from the hand and then cutting out
the data section, curving slightly where the
point of the data's like we did before to make it
a little bit more fluid. And on either side, you should again have a
panel instead of a dat, where you have got the panels
slightly curved at the top, taking the same amount of fabric out, creating
three-dimensionality. This time instead of a
dot and have a panel which would give the government
and different detected. You can as before, just draw a panel any way
that you want on the sky, just like you did with the
tunic in Module three, is just that if you have data, you also need to think
about how to incorporate them into panels so
you can mix and match. You could have panels
which incorporate data. And you can have panels that more freehand and
don't have any dads. And then on the same item.
8. Working with horizontal panels: Let's do something simple. Let's take our master or a rumor and then create
a horizontal line. So not vertical or
horizontal line, which touches the
tip of the data, just like I have done here, what we want to do is then add some notches and then
cut along the line. Once we've done that, we
could close our data by folding it and sticking it together using
masking tape or glue. And we'll find is that
I will lie on one side, straight, on the bottom. On the top, you have curved. So our data is effectively still be incorporated in
this new panel. And if you place the curved side of the panel where the
straight side of panel, you'll find that there's still folder that
has been taken out.
9. Working with asymmetrical designs: You can also create
asymmetrical designs whilst still eliminating dads. For this, you need
to make sure that the damage one side
is incorporated either in the side same or
as part of the data we keep. One of the things that
you can do is to take the one centimeter data where
we have on one side and then add five millimeters on either side of the
data that we keep paying and incorporating
into a scene later. And then once we've
made those markings by millimeters on either
side of the data. We can then connect the tip of the data
to those markings, cross off the data that
we have eliminated, then extending a
line from the tip of the dad down on
the way to the hand, adding our notches and then
cutting along the lines. This will be fine. But remember earlier, we
didn't mentioned that ideally, you would want to distribute to that allowance more evenly, so it looks more balanced. In this case, I could
do different things. By example, if I take the dot
that I don't want anymore, I can split it into two equal
halves, half a centimeter. Each. One of those
half centimeter, I could split between
the two sides. So takeoff 2.5 millimeters from either side and the
other five millimeters, I could add another
side of the dot, dot keeping a spot of the same 2.5 millimeters on
either side of that data. This way, things will look
a little bit more balanced. I can do the same by
splitting the data that one or not in equal measures, but in four millimeters, six millimeters, because
that's easier mathematically. So that I could take out
three millimeters from either side and then two from either side of the actual
DAT or vice versa, Take two millimeters, come
either side on the side seams, and then three millimeters
on either side of the data. Either way, we will be taking that one centimeter and redistributing it
in different ways, the waste will always be the same because the
channel to adapt allowance is also the same no matter where
it is along the waste. Once we have decided
which option to go for, we could do the same
as we did before. Extend the tip of
the data that we're keeping with a line all
the way down to the hand, adding a notches and then
cutting along the line, making sure we take out
the data section itself. Having a sharp edge where
the tip of the data was. Always, always make sure you add your seam allowances or
when you create panels, or whether you
incorporate dads or not. As you may remember,
in module three, That's what we did quite a lot and it's no different
in this case. Things to remember,
again, seam allowance. Always have your
grain line in place. Always add your seam allowances. When you're working with panels. You can add as many
panels as you like. And some panels could have dad's incorporated and gum
and some may not.
10. How to stitch a plain dart: Welcome to the selling
part of this module. We're going to learn how
to stitch complained that grab a few
pieces of fabric. Because it's likely
they need to create more than one sample and get your machine ready
in a similar way to the way we have drawn
that on our template, we are going to draw a
dad using public pen onto the fabric in damage could be a little bit
wider and longer, is up to you. How wide and long
you want it to be. You can try different
lengths and widths and see how that is different
when you are selling. Once you have drawn your
dad for your first sample, fold, right sides together. The fabric, the middle of the
data center line is bright on the actual folder and then pin along the diagonal
lacking self the data, making sure that you match
up both lies on the top. And you can then go
to your machine. And you want to start from
the widest part of the data. You want to line up. So the needle is on the top of the diagonal
line at its widest, using a back stitch
in the beginning, and then keep going
using a medium stitch. When you reach the bottom of
the data towards the tip, you want to stop with the
needle into the fabric, approximately a few stitches away from the very
bottom of the tip. Then you want to have the
foot up whilst the needle we still in fabric and
then straighten fabric. So now you'll be stitching
very close to the phone. You want to need them to be about that distance
from the phone. So this might be a
little bit fiddly. Be sure to work slowly and
even use the hand wheel instead of the pedal to make sure the speed that you're
working with this very slow. Once you have made
sure they have straightened your fabric and you now we'll be working
with a straight line. Make sure that you
put the foot down, make sure that you go
in a straight line, two to three stitches and using, and we'll at the end
do not backstitch. Simply pull the fabric away using some excess thread
at the bottom and cut off, making sure that you have
an app for it to work with. What I tend to do
is I simply tie the two ends and then trim
and then press one side, making sure things
look nice and crisp. This may be a little bit fiddly because of the
three-dimensionality that you have created on track and
use a different length and a different width that
see how that compares. Some would be easier than others depending on the angle
they have chosen, the web from the data
that you have chosen, the length of the data
that you have chosen. Make sure that you
evaluate your samples with a sample evaluation sheet
that comes with this module. And make sure that you write
down any questions you have, which you write
down what's gone? Well, we can write
down what's gone wrong and how you can make
it work better next time.
11. Final thoughts and homework: I hope you have enjoyed this module and I hope
you have found it useful once you start understanding that
a little bit more, after creating samples, after playing around
with the patterns, you will be able to apply your knowledge
on your own clothes. You can, provided the
fabric allows it on pig, it does move that excess
fabric along the waistline. You can also split
that allowance into multiple dads or eliminated by introducing design lines and panels that are
there for a reason, that's there for a purpose. Data are there to add three-dimensionality
to a government. But you can also have data
on all sides designs just because they look interesting and can be interesting detail. So you don't have
to use them just because you want to have
something close fitting. But you can also use them purely because
visually interesting. So you can use them on
your jackets, on big coat. Just as little details that make things that much
more interesting work. There are two things
I'd like you to do. One, I want you to play around with patterns
using the template provided and go over the things that we have covered
and play around, have fun with it to see
what other things you could do when it comes
to dads, how many data, more data you could
split the existing data into maybe more panels
you can create and how many more ideas you could come up
with when it comes to data and incorporating
on your skirt template. The other thing that I'd like
you to do is to print out your sheet for evaluation or your dad sample that's helping dads are
the small pieces of fabric and make sure each is a better than
the previous one. If you are struggling
with anything, make sure that you mark
that on your sheet. I look forward to seeing
you on the next module. Until then, stay creative.
12. Module 5 bonus: We have learned so
much about dads on waste lines when it comes
to trousers and skirts. And I wanted to quickly show you another way in which
you can eliminate two dads are also
using the data to create foreigners at the bottom of the scourge of trouser, thus creating a nice flat. You could have
more asymmetrical, almost symmetrical design
depending on where your dad's, how long the waistline. So if you have
delta-9 side of the, for example, equal amounts
away from standard prompt. Where you can do is draw a line from the tip of each
data down to the hand. Then cut along that line, stop paying on the tip of each that all the dots
and stick them down. Using a piece of paper. You could fill the space
that has been opened. Then the bit at the
bottom that's been open, you find that can be quite a lot in the adapt was quite small. Can then be alone. That's creating a new curve, tan line on both sides. After having stuck the
paper and shaped the hand, you can cut the excess paint. That will create not only fit in ways where you don't
need to stitch any dads, but will also give you a really lovely
fullness at the bottom. I appreciate this would not be possible with existing skirts using the same material
because you'd have to cut into this where you can actually
add extra path-breaking, make interesting
triangular patch works. Choose to do so. Another thing they can do is to move the two dads that
you have, for example, the data on template
right in the center, for example, and move
them under the same data. So if you have a one centimeter
and dodge and I'll send, you could create a two
centimeter dot on the center. You can also create
a 1.6 centimeter data and take a
couple of millimeters of waistline and it's
up to you really. The bigger the data,
the biggest lab. And then you can
draw a line from the tip of that in your
own way down to there, and cut along that line up
to the point of the data, to the data, then all the
dad and stick it together. Thus opening the
section on the bottom, I am creating a big
player and center. Now if you do this
kind of thing, I mean, you could have
the Datanode, the center, you can tabulate it
just on one side and had a big down
just on one side. And then you'd create an even more interesting
asymmetrical kind of fullness. Well, one side, you wouldn't
have any wholeness. But on the other
side you will have an interesting kind of
Red Bull if you like. It. It's a really
great thing to play with with art and
see the difference. So again, you tap paper underneath the section
that has been opened. You'd stick that together to the paper and make sure that you cover along
the hand line, again, eliminating
the excess paper, cutting that off, and thus
creating that new pattern. If you want something a little
bit more, shall we say, even all the way, You could the existing
data into smaller dads. For example, if you
have a centimeter down tonight site and that
equals two centimeters, you could split into reading
a few really small dance. It doesn't actually
matter how many dads, and you just need to
draw a line which connects the tip of the damage
to the hand for each NADH. Then cut along these lines, folding and the dots
and sticking them together that will shape
the waistline eyes as well. And it will open into
sections and the buttons, while some smaller than
that small section will still be bigger than what you
had up here at the waist. So for example, if you have
for dads and four sections, you have parts of that curtain, the budget and where
you'll create fullness. If you have 567, same, It's the majority have
the more fullness you can create evenly
all the way around. The bigger the dad,
but less dad's b could have flare created in one
section, two section. That's a little bigger for
that particular section, all these ways will read it, finds a silhouette and
political fold differently. So if you have had good fun playing around with
data along the waistline, moving them, and splitting them and putting them
together like we did in creating
patterns as well. I believe will really
enjoy having a go at this. I hope you have found
this interesting. I will see you at
the next module.
Eva Dragoeva, Fashion Designer
