Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hey, welcome to module four of this beginners course for
sustainable fashionistas. I hope that you have
enjoyed the course so far and that you are
ready to take up a notch. In this module, we're
going to explore how to finish a raw edges on close by using template for
prompt and, and black bodies. And applying this technique to the arm holes and also
to the neck line. So intelligent Templates. And let's delve into it.
2. What are we going to be working on in this module: What we're going to
work with today is something called facings phase. Things can be applied anywhere on the gun where
you've got a raw edge, for example, on the ankles, on the neck line. If you have any opening
on the front or the back, then even under him today, we're going to work with
and the neck line on late. But this should be challenging. You and you should have
three samples created. And we're going to work
methodically here. So we're going to create
the patterns first, then go into things
for our samples. Going to stitch
our sample to get.
3. Templates: The first thing you
want to do is to add seam allowance to the
front and to the back. So go ahead and
add seam allowance all the way around the pattern
on both front and back. You don't need to add any hammer lands and chill
because we won't be working on the ham or will be working with the sciences for
the shoulder seams and over the ankles and neck. Once you have added
your seam allowance. And you have IgG or green line, because don't forget
about the green line. You can then go ahead and trace
this pattern three times. We will be creating
three different samples. And for this, you will need three sets up front
and back templates.
4. How to create a Facing pattern: Let's start with
our first sample, which will be finishing
the ROI on the arm home. We going to do this in
two different ways. So two different samples. First thing you need
to do is to follow the seam allowance from the back shoulder,
the back button, and then place it aging along the seam line of the shoulder,
overlapping the front. Just like I'm done. Then you can temporarily stick it together using a masking tape or glue. And you want to create a marking a few centimeters in
from the whole shoulder. The next thing you want
to do is measure a few centimeters below the
bottom of GM role, for example, three
to four centimeters at the front and then do
the same on the back. They need to be exactly the
same using curved lines. Go ahead and connect all the markings they
have created from the side seam on the shoulder markings
all the way to the plot. It is easier to use a pattern mastic have
invested in one. If you haven't,
you could try and draw the curved line
by hand very gently. It doesn't need to
be a perfect curve. It just needs to look
natural and show you my front and the
back on that part. The rain bind to the front
because the back is at an angle cut out
along the curve. They have created this
part in this cold.
5. How to create an alternative armhole facing: There was another
way in which we can create a facing for the ankles. And we're going to follow the same principle
like we did before. The shoulder, the back, along the same lines. So the seam allowance should go and up and then place it on top of the front Barton along the front shoulder
seam allowance. And then what you need to
do is to stick together like we did before and
start making your markings. This time were you going
to do is you're going to still have a marking
along the shoulder. However, instead of creating markings below the
whole alongside seen, what we going to do is I'm
going to create my kings, the front him and at
the FAC can also, this time they don't have to be the same distance and the front and the back that
can be different. In fact, it's quite often
the case where, um, the front you've got bigger
facing and then on the back. So you could do
that if you like. It happened the same. It is up to you on this one. Facing creates stability. So the boy have it
front or the back. The more stability you have in the actual silhouette
of the garment. You then want to draw
organic curved line from the shoulder down to the
hand on both front and back. Again, you can use a
flattened monster, or you can do that by hand, trying to create a natural. It won't be as curved as the first pattern
that we created. Not just as before. I GO green line at the
front of the Martin. Make sure you indicate
what's in front to back. And then cut along line, thus cutting out the facing.
6. How to create a neckline facing: The last pattern that
we're going to create is a pattern for facing
for the neck line. This one will be
a little bit more challenging when it
comes to sewing. But practice, I know we're going to start by doing exactly
the same thing that we did for the first
two patterns and connect the front
and the back along the shoulder by holding the back seam allowance and placing it over the seam
allowance of the front. This time, instead of
creating a pattern, we're going to create a
pattern on the next night. Measure from the neck line and the center
prompt down again, a few centimeters,
five centimeters. Sticks. Same applies in terms
of providing stability. The more you have the most
stable the silhouette. Do the same with the bag. Measuring from the center, back on the next line and
down towards the ham. And you can have the back
slightly smaller than. You need to then connect all
the markings they have made. Again, using a path to
mastery Just by hand. All the way from the center
to the center and back, creating a little sort
of semi oval type shape. And once you have your green line indicating
what font was bad, cut too long, the
curve we have created. And make sure this
time that you put a marking at center
front to indicate. You should now have
three patterns created.
7. Cutting sample pieces in fabric what will you need: Now that you have used up
three of the sales that you have created in paper. The basic font and bad
template, seam allowance. You should have one named. Use this one to cut
out three sets in fabric front and back and make sure that
you put to the back, right and the left side. You also need to cut out
when you're facing pieces. But all three, you should
have your facing in outbreak, same as the chosen
for your bodies. You should also
have cut for each facing a piece in interfacing. We spoke about interfacing
in module one. And it's something that is quite important when you work
with these things and, uh, when you want a gunman to
have a lot of stability, so you don't need a large
to create these samples. Should be sufficient and you should have some of
it on a project.
8. Applying interfacing to facing pieces: Once you have all pieces cut, the next thing we
need to do is to tap the interface into the
fabric of our facing pieces. So for each of the samples
that you're creating, you want to tag the interfacing piece to the fabric piece
with the same shape. You can use a long
tags just to make sure that things are together but they're
not moving about. So each interfacing
piece should be tagged to the wrong side of each facing east
that in cotton fabric. You don't really want to use hints for this
kind of thing. It's important to tack it this time because
otherwise it will be very, very ugly and things won't necessarily stay
in place as well. To apply interfacing
with glue onto fabric, you need to have the fabric with the wrong side up
amongst the interfacing itself will have
glue on one side and that side is usually shiny. It's likely to feel a little
bit different to the touch. Plays the wrong side
of database thing. So the side that has the glue on top of the wrong
side of the fabric, just like I've shown here. And then using an iron, which has to be a steam
iron, press in place, releasing steam and
the same time times don't I know about because that will then make the glue
unevenly distributed. And then once you have pressed, the interfacing
should be in place, all stuck to the fabric. The fabric will have gained extra stability on
the wrong side.
9. Stitching the shoulders: You can set aside all the facing pieces once
they have been tapped. Now we're going to go
to the machine and stage or the shoulders together. They can bin and shareholders
right sides together. We can do that. All samples. So they're all done. And once you've done that, you could press the seams open. In this module, we are
focusing on the actual facings and waste to finish row edges
on the edge of a garment. So we're not going to be
focusing on how finishing seems, so you don't have to wait
to get it, press them open. And now, once that's done, we can attach our facing pieces to the corresponding gotten. Each sample.
10. Armhole facings application: We're going to be
making two samples for the arm holes and one
sample for the neck. So let's start by working with
the samples for the halls. And what you want to do is take one of them
whichever ones you want, and align up each piece of
facing, each HMO right? Sides together. So you want to make
sure that you line up the whole part of facing
piece to the whole part, the Garmin right sides together and do
this on both sides. You want to then pain along
the whole and then go to your machine and stage depending on what seam
allowance you have chosen. Curves, you want smaller
similarity, so centimeters fine. And that's what I've used. Just stitch work slowly, stitch all the way along the whole pivot team
along the curve. And as always, make
sure that you kill the beginning and the end stage
of vaccinated feet above. Then the facing part with the interface and that's to turn over the seam allowances. Then under the machine and make sure that the
needle goes down proximity. And mainly from the same, you have just created this type of stitch that
you will now be doing. I'm very close to seeing
how just catching the facing and both
seam allowance is called an edge stitch. You will see in a moment
why this is important. Work slowly, making
sure you maintain that millimeter or
so away distance from the scene
they have created. And I know that might
be a little bit fiddly, but I know that you can do it. Just keep going and make
sure again, as always, they secure the
beginning and end of see me creating a backstitch. Once you have done
that on both sides, you want to trim one of
your seam allowances, knee a little bit further. And the other one, you want to just cut at a diagonal every
centimeter or so, which will enable
us to then turn the facing to the wrong side
of the garment with ease. If we don't do this when we turn the basic to the wrong side, there'll be a lot of puckering
and things once, right. You need to make
sure they opened that curve by setting
these incisions. Then you can take it and
just press from the side, press the facing down along
the curve of Deanne poll. And what you will find is that the edge stage they
have created is kind of pulling the
initial seem that you stitch together
towards the underside, towards the wrong side. And this is why we did it. Because it looks
way better to have that seem slightly
on the wrong side. Then write mgh where the
right side and the forums. Now we could stitch the side seams together
and to do this, lazier sample inside out. And then pinch the facings
at the front and the back. Unfolding young upwards. And this should
enable you to have a continuous
slightly curved line from the top facing all the
way down to the Hamilton. Just like I've
gotten you to make sure that that intersection where the seam of the hole at
the bottom of Dionne home, Under Armour's meat on
the front and the back. You want to make sure that the front and the
back meet exactly. But underarms seen. This should be this
four-way intersections. That should be the
same font in the back. So you could pin there. And then pan on either
side, both sides. And you need to do this on both sides of your sample and then the pink areas
on both sides. Once you've done
that, you can press the seam open on either side. Then the facing back down and the government
still inside out, turn in the correct way. And you will find they
have a very neat finish, both on the outside and on
the inside because the async covering all the untidy bits and everything's
looking nice and neat. Now the reason I want to do, to do another
sample for Diane is because even though the
shape of the pacing, the second time
round is different, the process is exactly the same. So I'd like you to follow
the instructions again and create the next sample
using those instructions. This means that you will have practiced a
couple of times, this fairly long process
and get more comfortable. This is why I wanted you to create a couple
of samples from the same area because you
could repeat the process, makes sure that you
understand it better. Round your second sample is likely to be better
than the first sample. If any issues have occurred
with this first sample, you can then make sure that the second sample
has less mistakes because you'd have
already addressed them in creating the first sample. I look forward to finding out
how you got on with that.
11. Neck facing application and final thoughts: Now we need to create our
third sample, neckline sample. And what you need to do
is because you should have already prepped
of this point. Your neck line facing these all tagged with
its interfacing. And you should have
already stitched the shoulder lines on
both sides as well. So now we're you want to do is the facing and the Garmin
right sides together, lining the lung alongside
the neck line and painting. It is a little bit
more challenging. But last week, during
the last module, you created curved seams. And this week you've already
made a couple more samples. So now Nick Mine application. Even though be a little
bit more challenging, now want to do and I need
all of the same process. So once everything has
been paints together, you need to go to
the sewing machine and stitch all the way around the facing to the
garment along the neck line. And depending on what's
in my allowance you have, let this be a bit easier. Make sure that your seam
allowances and no more than a centimeter with
this kind of curve. Once you have
created the stitch, I've always securing
the beginning and at the end of the
stitch with a backstitch, you want to use the machine to create an edge
stitch yet again. So the facing over the
two seam allowances and plays the needle approximately a millimeter away from the
scene you have just created. Then move along the curve. This particular part will
be more challenging. And then we're
creating a sample of neon homes because curvature. So you need to make sure
they weren't very slowly. You don't use an onstage. You use perhaps a shorter stitch to make easier for yourself. Stop every now and again. Make sure that you
check the box. To me, the pace thing, they haven't caught,
anything else they should. And you should also be tiding, facing as we go, just pushing it down and making the part where you're
stitching as flat as possible, one or two stitches at a time, and then keep going
until I'm done with it. Once you have done
that as before, tread want a seam
allowances and making decisions on DR. the seam
allowance every centimeter. And this will enable
the facing to easily be turned through to the
wrong side and press nicely. The beauty of this is that
once you've done that, you found was
pretty much really, you just need to state
your side seams, which is kind of easier
than when you're stitching side seems like, hey, thanks and I appreciate that
the sample your arm rule, but that's fine because you know the process now I'll watch. And once he has stitch
the side seams, your sample should
be all ready to go. And by the end of this module, you should have at least
three samples to 41 of the neck line following a very similar process
for all of them. And this hopefully
has enabled you to understand how we use spacings
to finish for all ages. It's a really good
alternative for each clinician on clothes or whether we're
talking about it. Also told me about makefiles work that we've
been talking about. It would've been a lot
easier if we worked with the ham either ashamed that because that's a straight line. But I wanted to challenge you and to show you
something a little bit more complex because
this is module four, you've already done
quite a lot of work. And I think that your skills are way higher than the
word couple of weeks ago, so I don't need to
take the challenge. I look forward to your questions and to seeing your samples. And until the next module, stay creative and see you then.
12. Module 4 bonus: Well, this module, I'm sure has paid a little
bit more challenging and you should have your three samples and I hope you have enjoyed
creating them. Now, I want to have
quick bonus video here in case you didn't want
to use a sings all the time. Sometimes you could
just the two techniques I'm going to talk about today. Because while is
quicker to do them, you might not have
enough fabric or a similar fabric to add
to the inside as pacing, if you are working on
clothes you already have. Altogether. If you're working with things like governments that have
got see-through material. So having me now
chop C3b materials, then facing may not be ideal because you'll be able to
see it from the right side. So one thing that
you can do is to use a double folded methods. The two back in module two, when we create our hands, we do double folded
hem that was stitched. And in a similar way
we can do this with the alcohols and Nick lives and anywhere really wavy edges. Except for this time, what it suggests is to
have quite a narrow. So you don't want
to take too much, especially when you
work in current because as we have established
up to this point, when you work with
Percy wanted to have a smooth seam allowance
to make things easier. So I suggest if you had one centimeter seam
allowance width and if you're working
on your own clothes, are ready and you've cut off
the sleeps, for example. You won't be able
to add allowances, takes them out so you don't
want to take too much out. Which means that
centimetres quiet. Okay. Centimeters, not
too much to take. So you can take
that sound to me to unfold along and made sure that you press the hall along
that line centimeter in, then tuck the ROI age. And so now you end up having little folds that's
just half a centimeter. Press again. At this point, you want
to pin things in place. Attack using attacking threatened normal
thread doesn't really matter. And then you can go onto
your machine and stage a cowboy movie maintenance
away from the edge. You can stitch from
the inside if you wish to just have
it is up to you. Try and work slowly. Make sure that you have your line as straight
as possible. I need to do this before you have stitch
the side seams Again. Another way in which you
could finish Roy edges, whether it's on a neck
lines or arm halts anywhere else on government is to add. Now, we created a taped
him in module two. In a similar way, we can do this among work
with either more edges. However, this time I suggest
you use bias binding, which is another thing
we used in module two. The reason for this is if you remember last finding
a cut on the bias, because it's cut on the bias, has got a little lift stretch. Therefore, when stitched onto it has gone that flexibility to not create hookers
around the curves. And it will accommodate
a curved line. So you want to measure
the area that you want to neaten and then cut as a
long piece of advice binding. And then you just need
to attach the bias binding in the way they
attached into the bias bound. Seen really covering
the raw edge. Unfold one side,
pin the binding to the area they want to need
to stitch, following. If there is a curve.
Then go to your ion and press down and then I'll wrap the ROI
age with the binding. You can then press
so the binding is further away on the inside. So it doesn't need to do visible on the outside,
like I'm done here. So make sure that you
press this nicely. This will encase the voyage. Then you could stitch
from the top of the government making sure
you catch the binding site. It's up to you how phi stitch, as long as you make sure that the row age is encased
in these two ways. You could finish
religious without the need of having pacing. The quick and easy
ways to do that. Quick fixes. But equally, they're
very strong finishes. I hope you have enjoyed this bonus and I'll
see you next time.
Eva Dragoeva, Fashion Designer
