Intermediate Woodworking- Building a Sideboard

1. Intro- Building a Sideboard: Hello and welcome to beginner woodworking class number 7. I am so cow would gal. And in today's class, we're going to build a side board. Crazy right? Side boards, also known as console's, a hutch, and sometimes even just a dresser. They're commonly used in the dining area of a home to hold dining related periphery like napkins, additional China, candles, and placemats. For years, we've had an integer which is open, messy, and very dusty. Let's change that aside board with carefully planned drawers and cabinet doors will allow us to hide all of the things we frequently use behind closed doors. We'll go through each step of the building process and end with finishing the side board with paint or stain. This class is for anyone interested in learning how to build a side board. It is a bit more advanced than our prior classes, so it would be really helpful if you've taken some of the beginner courses on this channel or elsewhere, some basic tools are necessary. I yr, lung protection, sander or sandpaper, gloves, paintbrush, cloth or shop towel, Sponge brush, minor jig or hands-on circular saw drill drill bits, clamps, and a pocket hole jig. Additionally, it's optional for you to have a craig shelf pin jig. Now, all of these classes are meant to build upon each other. And for this class, I really would specifically suggests the classes on finishing join R3 and building a simple table. All of these cover steps that will show up in this class, but in much more detail. So without further ado, let's dive in. 2. Planning Your Sideboard: To begin this Build, we need a solid plan under our belts. As with most builds, I am making this specific to MySpace, so please do check and measure your space and make adjustments as needed. The first aspect we need to focus on is the space in which our side board will reside. So take your measuring tape and see what kind of space you have to work with. I like mine to be about as tall as the chair well molding and I don't want it to extend into the space. Passed around, I don't know, 17 inches and I think around 40 inches is the largest I'd like to do with the length of the side board. Now I have some rough estimates of sizing for this built. Next, just to get a little guidance, I'm going to do some research to see what our common measurements for side boards. A quick search on some furniture site shows me some common lengths of 5470 to 80 and 46 inches. It's clearly all over the place. Common depths are 16 to 21 inches. Common heights are 33 to 37, with 36 inches being the most common. Next, I'm going to consider the things I need to store so that I can play around them. We mostly use the integer for a stereo, dog treats and bones, candles and water bottles. I think the best format to store the small things like dog treats and toys is with drawers. I'll definitely want some bigger open spaces behind cabinet doors for things like the stereo. I'm gonna take measurements of these items so I know how big of a drawer and doors that I need. With these measurements in mind, I'm going to go ahead and draw out my side board. I've decided I want my sidebar to be 42 inches long, have a depth of 15 inches and be 36 inches tall. This should accommodate my items pretty well without taking up too much space. I know that my top will have an overhang on the front and sides of one edge each. So that's where I'll start with my full measurement of 42 by 15, so that I can then scale down for the body of the built. If it's 36 inches tall and my top will be three-quarter inch thick, then my legs need to be 35 0.25 inches long. If my top overhangs the front by one inch, then the width of my side panel needs to be 14 inches. I'd like to do a traditional panel Styles side that could easily be trimmed out with molding if I chose to do so. This panel style side is fairly easy to build, but it also looks more decorative than a flat side. My leg should be two-by-four material in order to support the heft of the side board. If my two side panel legs have a combined width of seven inches, since each two-by-four is 3.5 inches wide, then the panel in between the legs should be seven inches wide, which is the remaining space from our 14 inch width. I think I'll add a one by four at the bottom and cut on an ellipse for a bit of a decorative bottom. I'll also use one by twos at the top and bottom of the side panel, as well as a top plane panel to vary up the detail on the side. If I add up the 1 by 4 bottom ellipse, as well as the width of the 21 by twos, I get 6.5 inches. That's 3.5 for the ellipse and three inches for the 21 by twos. I'd like the bottom panel to be 183 quarter inches tall, so that leaves a 10 inch tall panel on the top. So two panels, the bottom is 18.75 by seven and the top panel is ten by seven inches. The footers and one-by-two dividers will be seven inches long. Now remember, we'll have this mirrored on both sides. So we'll actually be making two of each of these panels. Now to the front. If my legs take up three inches, which is the width of my two two-by-fours at 1.5 inches each. I'll subtract that from my body width in order to get my front measurement. If there's an inch overhang on either side of the 42 inch top, I have 40 inches to work with. Take away three inches and I've got 37 inches to work with for doors and doors. I'll add another one by four at the bottom with that same ellipse cut out. Continuing the design from the side. I want a row of drawers up top and cabinet doors below. So I'm going to put a one-by-two above and below the doors to frame them out. I'd like a large door and double doors on the left side and a smaller drawer in a single door on the right. I'll need to add a partition between them that will be three-quarter inch thick plywood. I'm going to make my drawers 525 inches tall so that I can use a one by six further fronts. If I add 5.5 to the widths of the 21 by 2s, I'll be installing them laying flat rather than with their width facing the front. That's 1.5 inches plus the 5.5 and stores plus the 3.5 inches from the 1 by 4 bottom piece, that's a total of 10.5 inches. If I subtract that from the front section height of 35.25 inches, I'm left with 24.75 inches for the cabinet doors. I'll round that down to 24, 0.25 for clearances. We're going to cut to fit the doors and doors closer to the end of this builds. So these measurements are not cut in stone, they are just a starting point. So we get an idea of measurements and would Debye, I don't really like to have a drawer much smaller than 12 inches wide. So I'm going to make the small dwarf exactly that 12 inches wide. There'll be a three-quarter inch partitioned between the small drawer and the large door. So add three-quarter inches to 12 inches, giving us 12.75 and subtract that from 37 inches, the width of our front piece minus the legs. This leaves us with 24 inches for the large door. Now, it's most definitely going to be smaller than this when we account for wiggle room and clearances, but this is just our starter point. I want my double doors to be the same width as my large drawer, then that means both doors should add up to 24 inches. We'll go ahead and call these each 12 inch doors, assuming a gap between each will make them a bit smaller than this. These doors will be 243 eighth inches tall. The same applies for the right door. Just make it the same width as the small drawer above it. So we have symmetry. That means the right door will be about 12 inches wide and 243 eighth inches tall. Now we'll also be putting an apron on the back of this side board for support. So add into your measurements one more 37 inch, one by three or one by four will also have a bottom shelf spanning the entire side boards. So that'll come out to 37 inches long and 12 and a quarter inches wide. We're doing 12 and a quarter in order to account for the one-by-two that's laying flat in front of the shelf that takes up 1.5 inches. We're also going to leave space for a 1 eighth inch backing to the side boards. So with our total measurement of 14 inches deep, we'll subtract one and five-eighths inches, leaving us with a depth measurement of 12 and three-eighths. I'm taking that to 12 and a quarter for clearances. Plan for a 1 eighth inch thick plywood backing measuring it 31.75 by 37. And that's just an estimate. That's the height of the body minus the 1 by 4 footer. But don't worry about this exact measurement just yet as it'll be cut to fit after whatever size apron is on the back will need a bit of one-quarter inch plywood or bead board for the door panels. And in total, we'll use around two foot by two foot. I think. I'd also like a shelf for each set of cabinet doors. The left shelf would come out to about 23.75 inches wide and within set doors or subtract three quarter inches, which will be the thickness of the doors from the depth of the body, which was 14 inches, that leaves us with a shelf that measures 23.75 by 13.25 inches, which will round down to 12 and three-quarter inches for clearance and for the back panel. If you don't want shells, then don't bother with them. It's up to you. The right shells will be about 113 quarter inches wide and the same depth as the left side, 12 and three quarter inches. So 12 by 12 and three quarters for the right shelf. If you want yourself to be attached rather than adjustable, then you'll make the left one and the right one a bit bigger than this. You'll cut the left 124 by 13 and the right 112 and a quarter by 13. Now that we have our basic plan made out with measurements, it's time to make our CUTLAS so that we know how much wood to buy. 3. Materials and Supplies: The tools and gear you'll need for this project include the following. I, yr and lung protection, sander or sandpaper, gloves, paintbrush, cloth or shop towel, Sponge brush, miter, jig or hands-on circular saw drill, drill bits, clamps, and a pocket hole jig. Optionally, you can have a craig shelf pin jig. I am using a table saw extensively with this build, but you can use a circular saw or jigsaw for it. For our wood, the CUTLAS will be in the class resources for your use. But I'll quickly go over here to give you an idea of the scope. Let's start with the plywood. You'll need one full sheet of cabinet grade plywood. That's a four foot by eight foot piece at three-quarter inches thick. If you'd like for the top to be solid wood instead of plywood, you'll want to also buy a pre glued panel. These are oftentimes in the molding and trim area, sometimes called a wall panel and come as a 16 by 48 for probably around $20. You'll also need to get a four by eight foot sheet of 1 eighth inch thick plywood or hardy board. This is for the back of the side board and the drawer bottoms. Also, we need a two foot by two foot sheet of one-quarter inch plywood or even beat board. If you plan on painting. This will be for our door panels. The last plywood you'll need is for the drawers and you'll need a two foot by four foot sheet, half-inch thick. And now onto the wood, you'll need 16 feet of one by three pine. You'll need 12 feet of two-by-fours. Make sure it's kiln dried, not green, or it'll be super heavy and it's going to work. You'll also need an eight foot section of one by six, get 12 feet of one by four, and finally ten feet of one-by-two. Be sure to check the cut list before making your purchases. As I've rounded up to the nearest available lengths for all of these. And you can get away with shorter pieces that you might have sitting around your shop so long as they meet the CUTLAS requirements, you'll also need a roll of edge banding. You can get it in white if you're painting your side board or in natural wood, if you'll be staining, this will go on the exposed edges of the plywood. For a finished look, you'll need an iron to apply it. I would like the shelves to be adjustable, so we'll be using shelf pin supports, which are easily found at the big box hardware stores. You can choose if you want the metal ones or the plastic ones, It's up to you. We'll also be using concealed inset door hinges. I like the 95 degree ones from Home Depot, their self-closing and hidden from the front. Lastly, we'll be using 12 inch drawer slides. I'll be using full extension ball bearing side mount slides by ever built, which can be found at the big box stores. You can use different slides, but you'll need to follow the directions that come with yours as each brand and type. They're really going to vary in their installations. 4. Making Your Cuts: Now that we've planned out our side board and we've bought her a wood. We're ready to make our cuts. Remember, we won't be cutting our doors and doors just yet because we're going to want to cut them to fit once the carcass is fully built. At this point, we also won't worry about cutting the backing to the side board because that'll be done later. I've uploaded the CUTLAS to the class resources, but we'll go over it here. First step, we're going to cut our plywood. You'll need one of the following. A table saw, a circular saw, or a jigsaw. If you're using a circular saw or a jigsaw, I highly recommend making a guide for your soul in order to make the straightest cuts possible, I'm going to cut the top first and I'll be using my table salt, but I'll also demonstrate the other saws with some smaller pieces of wood. Mark the plywood or preclude panel 42 inches long by 15 inches wide. I'm going to cut the plywood 15 inches wide first. I find it helps to mark Xs on the side I'm not keeping, so I know which side of the line to keep the blade. Now remember, any saw blade will always have a curve, which is the small strip of wood that's removed by the saw blade. If you cut exactly on the line, you'll end up with a smaller final piece than what you intended. So cut just to the outside of the line on the waste side. Mark the waste side with an x. I'm going to line up my wood with my saw blade, keeping that blade just to the outside of the line. And I'll lock my fence in place, turn on the sol and gently push the wood through, retrieving the wood from the other side. Do this carefully. For my 42 inch measurement, my table salt fence doesn't extend that far. So what I'm going to do is measure the remaining length of the wood after marking my 42 inches, whatever that amount is, will be what I line up my fence with. In other words, the fence will be against the waste side rather than the keep side. So once again, I lie my blade up to be the outside of the line on the waste side. Again, turn on this on, making sure that the wood isn't touching the blame to begin with, and gently guide it through, making sure the wood stays flush against the fence at all times. Here's what it looks like with a circular saw and the jigsaw. I'm going to put a piece of wood the length of my plywood, making sure it's flat with no bow to it. Then I'm going to line my blade up to the outside of my line marking on the waste side. I'll hold the speed square up to the side of the soul to ensure that it's sitting straight on the wood and mark where the soul rails sit. We're going to clamp down r would guide just to the outside of this rail line. And that way the cells reals will ride along the wood guide keeping a straight on the line marked, note that you can adjust the depth of the blade, make sure that it extends just past the thickness of your wood. Cut your wood, taking your time and make sure that the wood guide doesn't budge. You can also use this handy Craig rip guide. Tighten your circular saw on to the guide with the set screws up front line up the Craig grip with the blade to the outside of the line and then the RIP guide along the outer edge of the wood, lock it in place, slowly push this all through the plywood, making sure that the guide rides along the edge of your wood without moving out of place. Next, we'll cut our side panels. For the top side panels, we're going to cut two pieces of plywood at 7 by 10 inches. Since I own a miter saw that cuts 10 inches and more, I'm going to make these cuts with the miter Saul, which is my preferred saw in the shop, use the same method as shown with the other cells. If that's what you own. I have a sliding miter Saul which allows me to get a greater length than my cuts. Use this if you have it, but make sure you keep the wood flush to defense and strongly held in place. For the bottom side panels, we're going to cut two pieces of plywood at 18.75 inches by seven inches. I'll be taking this to the table. Solve for the 18.75 inch cuts and finishing the seven-inch cut at the miter Saul. Do as before with whatever saw you own. Now we have panels for both sides of the side board, top and bottom, as well as the surface top of the side board cut. While we're working with plywood, let's go ahead and cut ourselves the big shelf, which is really the bottom of the hole side board, measures 12 and a quarter by 37 inches. I'll be cutting this one on the table. Saw, user saw of choice, same as before. Mark your measurements, cut to the west side of the line. The next shelf will cut is for the left side of the side board with the two doors and measures 12 and three quarters by 23.75 inches. I'll cut this on the table saw again. And the last shelf is for the right side with the single door. This one measures 12 and three quarter by 113 quarter. Again, I'll use my trusty table saw and Reginald Ripper The third to make quick work of this cut. If you're doing non adjustable shelves, these measurements will instead be 13 by 2413 by 12.25. Finally, we'll cut our dividers, which will separate the left from the right side of the side board. The bottom section divider which separates the double doors from the single door, measures 2458 by 133 quarter inches. The top section divider, which separates the large door from the small drawer, measures 53 quarter by 13 and 18 inches, 13 and 7 eight inches is the front-to-back measurement since the depth of the side board is 14 inches and we need to account for the 1 eighth inch backing. But with the top divider, we also have to contend with a three-quarter inch that apron back there, so it has to be shorter to fit in the space. These dividers will be flushed with the front of the side board so that they are even with the doors and doors. Cut these with your saw of choice. Now the good news is that accepting the back panel, we're done cutting big pieces of wood. The rest can be done at the miter saw, which of course is my favorite song. We can make these cuts much faster. Now, let's cut our legs first. Take your two-by-fours and mark 35 0.25 inches. Make that cut, then repeat it three more times, resulting in four legs at 35, 0.25 inches long. Don't make all your marks. And then because you'll end up with a bunch of pieces that are shorter than your first-cut since the blade will take out a curve on each side. After your first cut, measure 35, 0.25 again, and make your cat repeat this for the final two cuts, measuring and marking each time. Next step, let's cut our front back inside footers, which will come from your 1 by 4, would look at two sides at seven inches and a front and back at 37 inches, measure and mark and then line the saw blade up to just outside the line on the waste side of the wood. Make sure to hold that would firmly in place against the fence and keep your hands clear of the blade. Let the blade spin to full speed, then slowly push it into the wood after you fully cut through the would bring the blade backup and don't really sit trigger until you've cleared the wood coming up out of the cut. Next step, let's kinda one by three or one by four, whichever you have for a top apron on the back of the side board. You can even use leftover plywood if it's in a small width. This apron isn't visible, so it really doesn't matter much if it's solid wood or plywood. Cut this at 37 inches long. Lastly, let's cut our one-by-two use. Let's start with four cuts at seven inches, which will be our dividers on the side panels. Now let's cut to at 37 inches for the front divider trim between the doors and doors and the bottom in front of the bottom shelf of the side board. Again, we're holding off on the doors and doors and back panel until we've made the carcass so that we have a better idea of the final fit. For now, you're ready to start building. 5. Assembling the Sides: And now we're on to assembly, which is my favorite part of the building journey. You're doing. Awesome. We're going to assemble the sides of our side board first. We'll start with our pocket holes. So take your side panels and bring them to your pocket hold jig, set the pocket hole jig drilling depth for three-quarter inch material, which is the width of your plywood panels. Make sure your pocket hole drill bit color is set for three-quarter inch material as well. You're going to mark where your pocket holes will be to the inside of the wood and about every I don't know, four to five inches. So for our seven-inch top, put to pocket holes along the top edge for the bottom of each panel will place one pocket hole right in the center. Then we'll drill pocket holes on the sides of the panels. For the seven by ten panel will drill holes about an inch over from either end of the 10-inch side than one in the middle of those holes. This will give us three holes on the 10-inch side. For the 18.75 inch panels will do the same as before for the seven-inch top and bottom. Just don't do what I did. And you really just need one hole right in the center, both top and bottom. Then for the long edge, we'll do a whole on either end, an inch from the edges, then two more, somewhat evenly between those. There'll be a total of four pocket holes in each 18.75 side. Don't forget to do this for all the panels for both sides of the side board. Next, let's drill our pocket holes in the 1 by 4 footer. We'll do this both at the top and the sides of the footer. On the sides, put to pocket holes in for the top. We'll put in one, make sure the whole doesn't line up with the hole at the bottom edge of your 875 panel on the seven-inch bottom. If they were the same, the screws from the panel and the screws from the footer would meet up each other on the one-by-two that divides them. Lastly, we'll drill one pocket hole into each end of our one-by-two dividers, making sure the holes are on the same side. I like to take a moment here and give a quick sand all my pieces. Some of these will be hard to access later after they're assembled and it can only help to have already sanded them. You'll be doing a final sand later, but this preliminary sanding can really help you down the road. I would especially spend some time on the two-by-four legs as those tend to be much more splintering than the rest of the wood. Now careful with the plywood. You shouldn't need to sand much on the surfaces. And if you go too hard, you're going to chip away at the veneer. Now, I like the look of inset panels and having a flush inside face is nice for storage and drawers. So we're going to use a little trick to get these panels where they need to be on the two-by-four legs. First, set your two-by-fours with the 3.5 inch face flat on your workspace, set your 18.75 inch by seven inch panel in between the legs, creating the seven inch gap between the two-by-fours. Next, set the top panel that measures tend by seven on top of that panel with the top of the panel flush with the tops of the two-by-fours, you should be looking at a flat surface of two-by-four and panel clamp the two-by-four down to your workbench and screw in your pocket holes on the 10-inch edge with one and a quarter pocket whole screws do the same for the outer side of the 10 inch edge, clamping the two-by-four and ensuring a flush top edge. Now please your one by two by seven divider on top of that 18.75 inch panel screw, the sides of the one-by-two into the two-by-four legs, keeping the assembly clamped and flush, then screw into the one-by-two from the bottom of the ten by seven panel. Next, place a random piece of plywood below your newly screwed in top panel and one-by-two so that you can do the same routine for the bottom 18.75 inch plywood panel, set the 18.75 inch panel on top of the scrap piece, ensuring a flushed face with your prior plywood panel and one-by-two and proceed to clamp and screw as before, first into the one-by-two above, then the sides into the two-by-four legs. Now take the second one by 2 divider and place it on top of the scrap piece and screw the panel down into the one-by-two, then screw the sides of the one-by-two into the two-by-four legs. Finally, pull out your jigsaw and cut out in the lips into the bottom edge of the footer. This step is optional, but it makes it look a little bit more decorative. You can freehand draw this pattern or you can find a paint can or similar to use as your pattern guide. Cut out your ellipsis with the jigsaw. Next, place this first one on top of the other side footer and trace the line that you cut, cut out the ellipsis on this one so that they both match one another. After you're satisfied with your cut, go over it with a Dremel sanding drum or just use some handheld sanding paper to clean up the wood. Now place the footer on top of the scrap piece so that it's flush with the rest of your joined pieces. Screw from the top of the footer into the one-by-two above it. Then screw the sides of the footer into the two-by-four legs. Repeat all these steps for the other side of the side board. Now, flip your assembly over and take a look. See how the panels are inset from the two-by-four legs. It looks nice. Ha, just remember when assembling the rest of the side board to keep the flat edge with all the screws to the inside of the build. 6. Assembling the Aprons: Up next we're going to assemble the aprons on our side board, which is going to give us our frame. We'll start with the back apron, which is an important step because this is what the top surface of the side board will attach to. It also gives structural stability to the side board. We're going to place the pocket holes along the top of the back apron and two on the sides. No holes along the bottom are necessary. So pull out your 37 inch back top apron made from a one by 31 by four or scrap piece of plywood. And make your pocket whole markings all on the same side. We'll do an inch from either end, then scatter holes every six inches or so. Then we'll make two holes on each of the ends of the apron. Next, pull out your 37 inch footer for the back. This should be a one by four and you can jigsaw the ellipsis on this, but since it's in the back, it's not necessary. I'm going to opt out of that. Place pocket holes, two on the sides, but none on the talk. Now and get your front aprons out, you should have two one-by-two by 37 aprons and 1 1 by 4 by 37 footer. Let's start by drilling our pocket holes in these. The one by 2s don't offer a lot of space, but we still want to pocket holes on the ends of the top apron because if you just drill in one, the wood can spin around freely. Drill your holes. For the bottom one by two, you won't be able to access the holes once the footer is attached. So don't worry about drilling any pocket holes into the ends of this one. Next, make your holes in the footer as you did with the back footer, an either side, but also this time multiple along the top. Now draw an ellipsis on this footer at the bottom and attempt to get a similar line as what is on the sides in order to make it symmetrical, I'd suggest making some measurements to help you out measure how high the highest point of your ellipses on the side footer is, and mark that height at the exact center of your front foot or measure out in between the high point and the endpoint of your side footer ellipsis. And note that height. Mark that height halfway between your center high point and the endpoint of your front foot, or do the same for the other side. Now connect the dots and try to keep it as symmetrical as possible on either side. Then cut that line out with your jigsaw. Finally, pull out that big old bottom shelf and put holes along the underside at the sides and the front, but not the back. We need to be able to attach this to the footers and aprons before we assemble the rest for easier access and keep the build even in square. I like to take a moment here and give a quick sand all my pieces just like with the side panel assembly. So now that all of our holes are drilled, we're going to assemble the frame, gets your one and a quarter inch pocket whole screws out along with some clamps. I have a right angle pocket whole clamp which can be very helpful for holding your joint while screwing, but you don't have to have that. You can also just go slow and hold it tight with your other hand while you drill. Let's start by attaching the front footer to the front apron. Clamp the two pieces of wood together, ensuring that the one-by-two is sitting flat on top of the footer. So the three quarter inch thickness is facing the front. Keep it flush with the footer. Screw into the apron from the footer and make your way down the line, keeping it clamped and flush as you go. Next, attached the bottom shelf to the front, one by two aprons growing through the holes in the shelf into the apron. Make sure you're doing this from the underside so the holes aren't visible inside the side board. We want this to be a flat surface, so keep the shelf top flush with the top of the apron. Set this aside and let's go ahead and move on to the back of the side board. Place your back top apron in-between the two side panels, keeping it flush with the tops of the legs. Place the apron 1 eighth of an inch inset from the legs so that there's space to nail in the back panel later on, screw through the sides of the apron into the legs, making sure the holes along the 37 inch edge are pointing to the top to later attached to the surface top of the side board. Also make sure the holes are to the back of the side board, not visible on the inside of the build. Next attached the back bottom foot or keeping the holes to the back of the side board. You can keep the footer flush to the backs of the legs, not inset like the apron as the back-end, you'll be attached to the bottom shelf, not the footer. Screw from the footer into the side legs. Now bring your front apron footer, bottom shelf assembly to the panels and apron and footer you just assembled. Slide the shelf in-between the two legs and let it rest on top of the back footer, leaving the 1 eighth inch space at the back of the footer for the panel, your front apron footer assembly should be flush with the front of the legs. Check that it all lines up and his flesh. Now we're going to secure the back of the bottom shelf onto the footer with nails. You can use a brad nail or for this, or even just a simple hammer and nails throw in one every five inches. You can counter sink the nails if you like, for a cleaner look. Now pull out your front top apron divider trim that will go between the doors and doors. Mark on the side board 5.75 inches from the top of the legs down. Do this on both sides. This is where the apron we'll start. We'll be placing this apron flat with the 1.5 inches on top and the three quarter inch thickness facing forward. Keep the holes to the bottom of the apron so they aren't visible as well as for easier access to screw into the legs. It might help to turn the side board on its side so that gravity holds the apron in place for you while you screw it in. Line up the top of the apron with the line you marked earlier, screw into the legs, flip the side board to the other side and do the same. Or use a right angle clamp to hold it in place while you screw. Now you carcass has a fairly solid outline and we can turn it upside down to complete the bottom shelf attachment. So flip your side board carefully so the top is on the ground. The holes on the bottom of the shelf should be facing you now, making sure to keep the bottom of the footer flush with the bottom of the legs. Screw into the holes from the footer into the legs. Do this for both sides. Next, screw, the remaining holes of the bottom shelf into the sides of the side board. Here's where you might want to take a moment to flip it back right-side-up and admire your work. Maybe you should take a picture and send it to your friends, gloating about the build up to you. I would it really is starting to come together and take shape. 7. Assembling Shelves and Dividers: Our next step is assembling the shelves and dividers. Pull out the dividers you made that separate the doors and doors for the bottom divider place pocket holes on the left side of the divider. Along the bottom. For the top divider will place pocket holes at the top of the divider, the upper back to go into the back apron. So please holds only within the width of that board well, as one at the bottom front of the divider to go into the one-by-two front apron, place it a little ways back so that it doesn't interfere with the attachment of the bottom divider, which is going to go in with a nail if you're going to be attaching the shelfs with pocket holes so they're not adjustable. Don't worry about this next step. But if you'd like to have flexibility with your shelves, you'll need to drill shelf pinholes. And I have this handy shelf pin jig from Craig which makes the spacing effortless. But you can absolutely do this with a storyboard and a drill bit taped to the correct depth. Here's how you do it without a shelf pin jig. Either find a piece of peg board as your pattern or grab a scrap piece of wood. If it's the peg board, make a mark on it for every other holes so that you maintain your pattern for both sides. The peg board. So there's one and three-eighths inch from the edge of the peg board to the line of holes for the scrap piece of wood, mark one and three-eighths inch over from the front. Make that mark up and down the length of the wood. This is how far from the front of your dividers insides the shelf pins will be drilled. Then place another mark every two inches along the long line. This is where the holes will be placed. Go ahead and drill holes at these spots with a 7, 32 inch drill bit, going all the way through the wood. Place a 1 by 6 lined up with the bottom of your divider as your starter block, you wouldn't drill shelf holds all the way down or up as there would be no need for those holes. You're not going to put the shelf at the very top or bottom, get a 1360 for or 3 16th inch drill bit and tape off half an inch from the point of the bit. This is your whole size and depth. Then set your peg board or storyboard above this tape and tape off where the top of the peg or storyboard ends. This way you account for the depth of your pattern jig when drilling holes. Remove the first tape, but leave the second tape on. Set the peg board or your storyboard on top of the starter block. First on the right side of the divider, the side without the pocket holes, drill holes up until about six inches from the top front apron. You can ensure consistent spacing. If you place the first hole in the jig on the last hole you drilled. Now go to the back of the divider and do the same, mirroring the front side, making sure that your pattern jig has 13 eighth inch starting point from the back of the divider. You can do this by flipping your pattern jig face down against the divider mark on the back where you made your holes with the peg board so that they match up with the front. Set it on top of your starter block, drill the same amount of holes as you did in the front. Next, go to the right side of the side board and mirror your holes there. Start with the jig face down like you did on the back of the divider so that the holes are one and three-eighths inch from the front. Drill the same amount of holes as you did in the divider, making sure to place the starter block beneath the jig sitting on top of the bottom shelf. This was a really hard angle to get, so please bear with me. Then go to the back of the side of the side board and flip your jig back to face up like you had for the front of the divider, set it on the starter block and drill your same holes. Now we need to make the holes for the other side of the divider unaligned so they don't meet each other in the middle. We can do this by using a different starter block. Your first one was 5.5 inches tall, so get one at least three quarter-inch different, either taller or shorter, doesn't matter. Place your starter block at the bottom of the divider than the pattern jag one and three-eighths inches from the front edge of the divider. Drill your holes in the same way as before, then moved to the back of the divider, flipping the pattern jig as before, and setting it above the new starter block. Finally, we need to match the holes we just made on the left side of the divider with holes on the left side of the front of the side board. Set your new starter block on the bottom shelf of the side board and make sure that your pattern jig is face down against the side, like it was for the back of the divider. Drill your holes, mirroring the placement and number of holes in the divider. Move to the back of the side board and flip the pattern jagged face up on top of the new starter block and make your holes matches before. Now you're all set for adjustable shelves. If you do this with the Craig jig, you'll set the depth color on the provided shelf pin bit with the gauge on the back of the shelf pin jig, It's fairly explanatory. On the back of the J, you'll see a cradle to put your drill bit on. The color will sit in the cradle that looks like the color. It's marked stopped drill bit here. So line it up with that with your depth color loosened with an Allen wrench, then tighten the depth color once it's in place. You'll also pleased to start a block with the Craig jig, but the spacing is already been laid out for you both in the distance from the front to back and in the spacing between the holes, set the starter block at the bottom of the divider or side board side and set the Craig jig on top, wrapping the edge on the edge of the divider or side. Drill into each hole, letting the jigs stop you when it hits the depth color. When you've reached the top of the holes, you can take their indexing pin and place it through the bottom hole of the jig into the last hold that you've drilled. Then continue drilling holes up the divider or sides. Stop when you get to around six inches from the top apron. When you move to the back of either the divider or the side, flip the Craig jig around so that the edge wraps around the back edge of your wood. Set it on the starter block and repeat the drilling as before. You'll still want to vary the spacing of the shelf pinholes from the left side to the right side. So be sure to switch out that starter block whenever you get to the other side, just like I explained in the homemade jig instructions. Okay, let's take a moment to attach edge banding to the exposed edge of the dividers since we've got good access right now, the only place you need is along the front edge, the one that's exposed at the front of the side board. Plywood has gaps and voids that are visible on a cut edge. So it really is best to seal this off with edge banding So it looks like a solid piece of wood. If you're going to paint your side board, you can use the white edge banding. It'll take paint just fine. If you're going to stain like I M you'll want to get the wood edge banding, identify where that exposed edge is and roll out your edge banding to fit, cut a little long so that if the banding shifts as you attach, you won't come up short. Heat up your iron on the cotton setting and once it's hot, slowly press down along the edge banding, melting the glue on the back so that it adheres to the plywood. Follow up with the block to smooth it down and make sure that it's fully in contact with the edge of the plywood. After your edge banding is cooled off, trim off the excess with a box cutter. Careful not to mar the surface of the plywood. Sometimes the banding extends past the sides of the plywood edge and you can trim that as well. Finally, go over the edge banding with a piece of 120 grit sandpaper. Don't use your sander, just hand sadness. This will get rid of any sharp edges from cutting. Go to your side board and mark along the bottom shelf, 12 and a quarter inches from the right side panel. Do the same on the top and bottom of the top front apron and the back top apron line up your bottom divider on this line with the right side of the divider sitting to the left of the line. Screw through the holes into the bottom shelf, line up the top and the bottom divider with the line on the apron and shoot or hammer a nail through the top of the apron into the front of the divider on the top. Keep it near the front so that the pocket hole screw in the top divider doesn't interfere. You might find it helpful to lay the side board on its back for this next step, bringing the top divider and slide it into place on top of the front apron, line it up with the marking on the backstop apron and screw it into place. Next, screw through the hole in the front of the divider, into the front top apron. The holes at the top of this divider will go into the top later. Now you can test fit the shelves, some shelf pins into holes in the front and back of either side matching their placement. For example, if you put the pin in whole three, make sure the other three pens for that shelf or in whole three, do this for both shelfs and slide the shelves in. If everything fits nice and cozy, you're all good. If the shelfs are a little too big, either front-to-back or side to side. Go ahead and shave off a little wood to make it fit. Let's go ahead and put edge banding on the front edges of our shelves. Will do this the same way that we did our dividers. Just the front edge needs covering as we'll never see the sides or the back. Don't worry about it. Roll up the edge banding, melt the glue of the iron so the banding adheres, smooth it over with a flat block of wood, then turn the excess once it's cooled off. Give it a quick hand sand. If you want non adjustable shelves, you'll pull out your 13 by 2413 by 12.25 shelf. So you've cut earlier, decide where you want the shelf to sit and make marks on all sides at this measurement. So you can place the shelf evenly. Do this on both sides at the chosen height for each. Also place a mark 1 eighth inch from the back of the side board sides. You'll line the back edge of the shelf with this line and the back edge of the bottom divider so that there's clearance for the doors on the front, put edge banding on the front edge of each shelf as before, give it a light hand sand and next, drill pocket holes on each 13 inch side of shelves. Do want about an inch away from the edges and then two more evenly spaced between. Now place the shelf lined up with your marks. You might want the side board on its side or back for a little help from gravity. Screw in the shelves to the sides and dividers being careful to remain on the line you've drawn. Do this for both shelves. 8. Assembling the Top: This next step is a bit easier than the others and it won't take you very long, but the end result will really give you a full picture of what this site board will look like. It's time to attach the top to the side board, pull out your 42 by 15 panel or pre glued panel talk you've cut earlier and determine which is the best side. This side should be your top. Place the top side facing the ground and place the side board upside down on top of it. You can move the side board around until the back of the body is flush with the back of the legs. You'll also want to evenly space so there's one inch of overhang on either side. Once all is in place, start screwing through the pocket holes into the top, making sure not to overdrive the screw. It is possible to pop through the surface of the wood if you screw in too far. So screw in with the torque on your driver at a low number, probably around 10 or 11. That way, once it feels stronger resistance, it's going to stop. Start with the back top apron screwing into the top, then move on to the side panels, screwing from the top of the side panels into the top of the side board. Do this on both sides. Next, screw in from the top of the top divider into the top of the side board. Now your top should be secure on the body of the side board. Flip it back upright and admire it. Looks great. You use to preclude panel for the top. You don't have to worry about this. But if you use plywood like I did now is the time to put the edge banding on both the front and the sides of the top. Do as before, unrolling the edge banding a little beyond the length of the front. Don't wrap around the edge as edge banding will crack. If you do so, you'll want separate pieces for front end sides. Slowly iron the edge banding onto the front, following quickly with the flat block. And you'll want to smooth it down as you go, since this is a long span to iron and it might cool off by the time you get to the end, trim the excess ends, then unroll for one of the sides and do the same. Now edge band the other side, trim the excess ends. The front should be cooled off by now so you can trim any excess above and below the edge banding. Do the same for the sides, give one last press of the iron at the corners and then attempt to make the two edges of edge banding meat and melt together as much as possible for a clean look. Finally, give it a light hand sanding to remove any sharp edges from the cutting. 9. Assembling the Drawers: Now guys, I'm not going to lie to you. Drawers are Harvard. But the only way to improve is to keep building them again and again. This will likely fail. I did a quick count of how many doors and doors I've made around our house, and I'm up to 62 now. And I still took three days to get these doors and doors done and made multiple mistakes. It's okay. Give yourself some grace and put on your problem-solving cap. You're going to need it. Let this just be one more step on your journey to having the skills to make almost anything in the shop drawers. They're not going to go away and they're crazy useful. So let's just dig in and make mistakes so we can get better. The cheapest door slides you can find it. The big-box store are these Genki roller style ones. And I use them on my first projects, but not anymore. It makes me crazy to not be able to get a full extension for majeure. So while they're more forgiving than the other door slides and very economical, I just don't use them anymore. For this project. We're going one step up and using ball bearing slides down the line. And for important projects like kitchen cabinets, I would absolutely suggest the very nice but very expensive bloom slides. But since this is just a side board, Let's keep it accessible. The slides I'm using are by ever built and can be found at the big bucks stores for about $13 will be using the 12 inch version with full extension. If you're using different slides, read your instructions and follow those as each type of slide has variations in their installations. There are two parts to any dwarf slide, a door member and a cabinet member. The cabinet member attaches to the cabinet carcass while the drawer member is attached to the drawer. The drawer with its member attached, slides into the cabinet member and can usually be removed from the cabinet by release lever if needed. In our instructions for these slides, it's suggest half-inch clearance on either side of the drawer. Note this is talking about the drawer box, not the drawer face. The door face will be attached to the door box later and has a smaller gap around it. It also needs a minimum of 1 eighth inch clearance at top and at the bottom of the drawer box. With this in mind, let's design our drawer box. Before we build it, we wait to design this until the carcass is built because sizing can vary as we build and there is absolutely nothing worse than having already cut our wood for the doors and doors only to find out that they don't fit. It's happened to me. Let's measure our opening for our doors. Measure from the top of the top apron divider trim to the bottom of the side board top for mine, it's 53 quarter inches, should be the same for each side. The length of the left door opening is 24 inches and the right is 12.25 inches. If we need one inch of space total for the width clearance of the door, then the left drawer box will be 23 inches wide and the right drawer box will be 11.25 inches with a quarter-inch total height clearance for the drawer at the height of the left and right drawer box will be 5.5 inches. Door slides are almost always the same length as our drawer box, accepting the face. So the depth of our drawer box will be 12 inches. With that in mind, let's design the store box. There are essentially five parts of a drawer box, the two sides, the front and back and the bottom. We're going to use our 1 eighth and tardy board or apply for the bottom of these doors to keep it simple for this built. If you have a router or table salt, there are more elegant ways to build the door bottom, but for now, we're going to do a basic door bottom. We'll have to account for the eighth inch thickness of this bottom in our drawer box as we calculate our cuts, the front and back will be sandwiched between the two sides. So we'll have to account for the thickness of the two sides in our measurements. The bottom of the left Georgia, will span the whole of the drawer box. So that'll be 12 by 23 from the eighth inch would the bottom of the right door will be 12 by 11.25, Since the bottom is going to add eighth of an inch to our drawer box height. We'll have to subtract it from our opening in order to get the height of our dwarfs sides and front and back, we have 5.5 inches to work with. So if we subtract that 1 eighth inch, we're left with 53 eighths. That means our sides are going to be five and three-eights by 12 for both the left and right drawer boxes will have to cut four total of these. The front and back of the left door will be five and three-eights by 2002, since we have to subtract one inch from our 23 and eye-opening for the two half-inch drawer box sites, the front and back of the right door will be five and three-eights by 10.25, which is one inch less than r 11.25 opening to account for those drawer sides, our final CUTLAS is this eighth inch plywood or hardy backer board, 11 and seven eighths by 11 and 11 and seven eighths by 23 for half inch door sides at five and three-eights by 12 to half inch drawer front and back at five and three-eights by 10.252 half-inch drawer front and back at five and three-eights by 22. So it's time to pull out your tables all circular saw or jigsaw and get to work, mark your measurements on each piece, making sure to put an X on the waste side so that you know which side of the line to keep your blade. If you're not using a table saw, make the same would guide like you did earlier. Making sure to match the edge of your soul rails with the wood guide, ensuring the blade is correctly placed on the waste side of your line. Make your cuts. I would suggest cutting lengths of five and three-eights wide boards from the half inch plywoods so that you can then take these strips over to the miter Saul for all the length cuts. This streamlines the process of it. You can do this by cutting seven strips at 53 eighth inch wide boards from your half inch plywood sheet, cutting them width wise across the 48 inch edge so that each strip is 24 inches long and 53 eighth inches wide. Next, take it to your miter saw and cut one strip at 22 inches long. Cut another strip at 22 inches. Next kinda strip at 10.25. And from the same strip cut another 10.25 inches. Next cut 12 inches from four strips. You won't be able to get two per strip because of the curve. Now you have what you need to assemble the drawer boxes. First, we're going to set up our Craig pocket hole jig and order to work with half-inch material. Set your depth color to the link that denotes on the jig for half-inch material, then set the depth gauge to half-inch material. Now, drill pocket holes on the sides of the front piece and back piece of each drawer box. Drill three holes per side, do a quick sand to all pieces. It's time to assemble these bad boys. Place the front piece between the two sides of your left door, making sure that the holes are facing the front so that they're hidden. Once the door face is attached later on, keep the front flash with the sides and screw through the holes into the sides. You'll be using one-inch pocket whole screws for this. Next, place, the back piece between the two sides with the holes facing the back of the drawer and screw in as before. Now, assemble your right door, place the front piece between your two sides, screw into place, keeping the front flush with the sides. Place the back piece between the two sides, screw into the sides. Finally, we're going to nail on the bottom two these drawers. You can do this with a brad nail or plain old hammer and nails. Make sure you're nailing into the half-inch sides and front and back. And if you miss, pull the nail out and do it again. Now you have to draw boxes and you're ready to attach your drawer slides. Before we move on to the door slides, vacuum and clean up your space drawer slides have been pre greased and they're gonna pick up sawdust from your workspace. So it really counts to start with a clean surface to work on. Press the release lever of the slides and separate the door member from the cabinet member on the sides of the doors make a mark one and a quarter inch up from the bottom of the drawer, at the front end of the drawer. Do this on all sides of both doors. Place the drawer member on the side with the top of the member aligning with your mark. Make sure the member is flushed to the front of the door. Places screw in the front whole of the slide into the side of the door. Here's a quick tip from me. I like to mark my holes dead center with an all first to help keep the drill bit centered when I draw my whole Next place a level on top of the door member and pivot it until the bubble shows level. Put another screw near the back. Don't worry about placing all of them now because we'll most likely have to make adjustments later. Do this same routine on every side of each drawer. Now for the Cabinet members are drawer front will be three-quarter inch thick and we're making inset doors. So we have to account for our drawer front when placing the slides there direction suggests a 1 16th inch setback for the Cabinet slides. So we'll add 1 16th three-quarter in order to find out how far to set back our cabinet members. That's 1316. Make a mark 13 sixteenths from the front of the cabinet towards the back. Do this on the sides of the side board and either side of the top divider. Next place a piece of 1 eighth inch board on top of the top apron trimmed divider and make a mark on either side above the board, onto the sides of the side board and on either side of the top divider. Now slide the cabinet member back over the door member that is attached to the drawer and measure from the bottom of the door to the top of the cabinet drawer member. Now take that measurement over to the side board and measure up from the mark you made with the 1 eighth inch board. Make a mark. Remove the cabinet member from the drawer member by pressing the release lever and line the front of the cabinet member with the front inset Marquis made it 13 16th inches. Also align the slide with the top mark you made on the side. Put a screw in near the front. Now please your level on the slide and place a screw near the end. Once it's leveled. Do the same for the other side. Now move on to the other door opening and do the same. Now it's time to test the fit. Placed the end of the door into the cabinet member tracks where the rails are supposed to enter and gently press the drawer until the lock engages and clicks. Pull the drawer in and out, testing for a smooth glide. If the slide has trouble engaging on the slides, it might mean that the drawer box isn't big enough to remedy this, place some thin cardboard like a cereal box underneath the drawer member and screw it back into place. This will pad out the width of the drawer box. Keep adjusting until it glides correctly. If the door doesn't want to push in or out, it can mean a few things. Either your slides aren't matching each other on either side of the door opening, making the door slide is skew or the slides cabinet and dwarf member don't match each other, making it hard for it to stay on the right track. It could also mean that your drawer box is too large. To figure this out, it just takes some trial and error and fitting and refitting. This is why drawers are fairly difficult and also why we only put in a few screws until we know for sure that everything works. You'll know if the drawer box is too big. If you go to meet the cabinet member and you can see that the member is wider and hard to place into the rail. To fix this, you can disassemble the box and cut off a tiny sliver from both the front and back of the drawer box as well as the drawer bottom. Reassemble, put the drawer member back on and test again. The member is not matching each other on either side or within the cabinet and dwarf member combo. That's going to be apparent if you can get the drawer in, all right. But it binds as you push the door in. For this, you'll have to keep adjusting the rails on either side until it slides correctly. Watch the interior closely as you slide the door in and out. And sometimes you'll be able to spot where your problem lies. Once your drawers are working smoothly, it's time to put the drawer face on. First, go ahead and put the rest of the screws into both the drawer member and the cabinet member and slide the door closed. Measure your opening. Mine was 24 and 18 by 53 quarter. The other side with 12 and 18 by 53 quarter, pull out your one by six and cut of 237 eighth inch length for your left war. This will leave us a 1 eighth inch gap on either side and both top and bottom cut another one by six at 11 and seven eighths. Now take your drawer face over and test fit it if it needs adjustments, just cut slivers off until it fits, right. Give the door friends the sand. If you don't have a Brad Naylor, this part can be a little hard, so I do suggest setting the side board on its back for this part, with the drawer box fully pushed into the cabinet, align the bottom of the door face with the bottom of the drawer box. Check to make sure there's a 1 eighth inch gap on both sides and the top of the door face. Now pre drill a tiny hole into the drawer face. This will start your nail for you so that you don't shake the placement too much by hammering. Set the nail in the hole and hammer it in. Make sure the nail is less than one inch long. Do one more a few inches away with the same method. If you have a brad nail or just shoot a few nails into hold it in place. Now, you're going to gently open the drawer by pushing it from the back and screwing into the drawer face from the inside of the drawer. Use a one-inch screws so you don't pop through the front for the left door, place three screws for the right door place to you. Did you successfully built and installed drawers? Believe me, this is no small feat. So go get some ice coffee and celebrate. 10. Assembling the Doors: Doors aren't nearly as hard as drawers, but they also aren't super simple. In this build, I'll be making inset doors, which is a bit more finicky than overlay doors because it has to fit just right in the cabinet opening. However, since space is at a premium and I didn't want the door sticking out anymore than necessary. Inset doors were the right choice. There are a few decisions that you have to make when it comes to doors. Will they be inset or overlay? Will the hinges be hidden or exposed? And do you want a flat slab or a more detailed door with an inset panel for this build. I'm going with the inset doors and I don't like the look of exposed hinges, so I'm going to use self-closing hidden hinges meant for inset doors. These are readily available at your big box stores and I like them because you can make adjustments to the hinge after you've installed it. That way you can get the fitting on the door just right. Since I don't have an inner lip for this side board that the doors can close against. I'll also be using these Euro bumpers. They get installed on the inside of the cabinet for a doorstop. You could also just use a magnetic catch if you like. Now there is another type of hinge that's a bit easier to use and the instructions are more friendly. However, you'll definitely still be making mistakes with them, so we really just have to go for it. I am going to warn you up front, these hinges sucked to install. If you want to suffer through the very poor instructions in the package with me and make some mistakes. I'll be showing you the installation. If you want to give yourself a pass and believe me, I understand. The easiest option is to use surface mount exposed hinges. They require a billion times less struggle. You want to make sure to use ones that are slim in order to fit the cabinet portion on the slim three-quarter inch divider. But with these, all you have to do is place a 1 eighth inch spacer under your door, hold in place with 1 eighth inch gap at the side and hold the hinge up to the door and cabinet marking where the holes lay, then screw them in. You'll have to use a magnetic class in order to keep the door shut. But that's it I highly recommend for my doors. I don't like the look of a plain flat slab, so I'm going to go with some detail for mine, you can keep it simple with a shaker style door if that's your thing. And I'll demonstrate that as well. To start, we'll be using one by three would for the frame of our doors. This will give us enough space to mount the hinges to the sides of the doors. Take a measurement of your door openings as they might have changed since the beginning of your build? My openings measure 24 and five-eighths and chai and 24 inch wide on the left side and 12.25 inches wide on the right. We want 1 eighth inch gap on all sides of every door. So our measurements will come out as follows. For the right door, 24 and 3 eighth inch tall and 12 inch wide, that gives us are at 18 inch gap on all sides. For the left doors, we'll split our width and half, leaving us 12 inches for each door. Then we'll subtract our gaps, which leaves us with two doors, each measuring 24 and 3 eighth inch tall and 11 and 13 16th inch wide. We're subtracting an eighth inch on the outside gap, but only an eighth between the two doors rather than an eighth each door. That's a total of 3 16th inch off the width for each door. Now that we know the total size of each door, we need to calculate our rails and styles. Doors are generally made up of two sets of pieces, the top and bottom and the two sides and the top and bottom are called rails. You can remember this by thinking of fence rails running horizontally across your fence. The two side pieces are called styles. We're using one by 3s and the rails will be sandwiched between the two styles. The styles will therefore measure the full height of the door, 24 and three-eighths inch. This is the same for all three doors. So 61 by 3s will be cut at 24 and three-eights long. For the left pair of doors are total width is 11 and 13 sixteenths. We need to subtract five inches from that for the combined width of each one by three style. Remember a one by three is 2.5 inches wide. This means our left door rails will be six and 13 sixteenths will cut four of these. For the right door, we'll subtract five from our width of 12. This leaves us with 27 inch rails. All right, Now that we have the frame of each door ready, we'll start on our assembly. But first, if you have a table saw or a router and are comfortable using it, you can pre route a rabid edge on the inside of each door frame. This will allow us to inset the door panel for a cleaner look and is a lot harder to do after we've assembled our frames. I suggest a quarter-inch route. You'll have to remove your blade guard and curve splitter since this won't be a through cut, set the blade height at a quarter-inch mark a quarter-inch over from the edge of your Rails and styles. Set your fence far enough over that you'll cut the blades width into the edge of your Rails and styles, pass it through, then move the fence over a bit more in order to make another pass with the blade right next to your last pass. Do this until you've got a quarter-inch route. Do this on all your Rails and styles. If you don't have a table saw or router, no sweat. This just means that you're back panel will sit proud of the back of the door, but that won't affect the opening and closing of the door. Up. Next, we need to assemble our friends. Drill pocket holes into your Rails only with the credit drill bit and jigs set for three-quarter inch material. Drill two holes on both ends of the rails. If you route it a rabbit, make sure all the rounded edges are to the back of the door where you're drilling your pocket holes. Placed the rails between the styles, lining them up flush with the ends. Drill into the styles from the rails, ensuring a tight joint. Do this for all three doors. For a simple shaker style door panel, cut a piece of quarter-inch plywood at 7.5 inch wide and 19.75 inch tall, or just measure what you are opening is. Then do two more at seven and five-sixteenths and 19.75 tall. If you're painting, you could use Blackboard or hardy board for this as well. Be bored, looks really nice. Inset on doors. You can get pretty creative here, as long as you have that strong one by three frame, you can put a lot of things in the center of the panel. Reclaimed wood in strips, glass, metal bars, bamboo. The options are endless. Since I'm standing, I'm using quarter inch plywood for my panels. Now bring your panels to your door frames and nail them into the backs. If you routed a recess, you'll nail as well just into the small quarter-inch lip. Careful to keep the now pointed into the frame, not the center. I want my doors to be a little more decorative than this shaker style here. So I'm going to add what's called tiny trim. You can find it in the molding aisle at Home Depot. I bought for pre-cut lengths of it. And that gave me enough with a little bit of overage for biscuits and would splintering. I picked out this beaded tiny trim so that it would reflect the beat indoor and outdoor pools I bought. The next part is a whole lot of cut and test and trim to fit. So be patient. You'll make your ends at 45-degree cuts at the miter Saul cut one end like a picture frame miter with the point towards the corner of your panel. Then place the point at the corner and make a mark at the other end where it intersects with the other corner. This is your long end. You'll cut a 45 degree angle that ends on that mark. Make a cut a bit longer than that. Test the fit than shave off bit by bit until it fits. Be sure to watch that you're cutting non-parallel angles. After you've done this for each set of doors, either nail the trim in with the Brad Naylor or glued in place. Next, we'll install our hinges for the doors. I cannot state this enough. Read the instruction that came with your hinges. All installations are different from one another. For mine, the instruction state to bore to 35 millimeter holes into the cabinet door. You can do this with a 35 millimeter force NOR bit or with a special door hinge bit that comes with a template for drilling. 35 millimeter is one and three-eighths inch. These holes will need to be placed away from where your pocket holes lie so the screws don't interfere with them. I usually place mine around three to four inches down from the top and up from the bottom of my door. Depending on the height, the center of this hole should be placed 78 inch from the edge of the door. I keep the hinge handy and fit the cup into the hole as I drill to determine how deep to drill the hole. Finally, screw the cut part of the hinge into the door, ensuring the top of the hinges level. Do this with a speed square. Now measure from the top of your door to the center of your board hole at an eighth inch for the door gap. Take this measurement to your cabinet side and measure down from the top and make a mark. This will be the center of your mounting hinge for the Cabinet. Do the same from the bottom of the door to the center of the bottom board whole add an eighth inch and market from the bottom up on your cabinet. This is the center of the bottom mounting hinge. Your hinges might have come with a template with which to place your holes. The ones I found were incorrect, so I didn't use them. My instruction state to place the hinge on the cabinet side 17 16th inch plus the door thickness over from the edge of the cabinet. Our doors three-quarter inch. So that means we place the hinge to and 3 16th inch over from the edge of the cabinet uses slide ruler for this, for consistent markings. There is one and a quarter inch space between the two holes on the cabinet side of the hinge. And so that means we'll place a mark 5 eighth inch on either side of the center mark that we've made. Well pre drill these holes with the 1360 four-inch bit. Note that there is a plastic back that they make no mention of in the directions. We'll leave this in. The holes you'll be drilling are actually for these to sit in. Then you screw in the screws, check this fit. First melt the cabinet mounting plate into the cabinet pre drill holes, then open the hinge fully on the door side. Slide the hinge on to the mounting plate, then tighten the screw in the center of the mounting plate to secure it. If the measurements are off, which is likely, you'll need to make adjustments and problem-solve. This will be covered by closed doors, so don't get too anxious about incorrectly drilled holes. I did a few. Try opening and closing the doors if all fits fantastic. You're a genius. If you're like the rest of us, mere mortals, you'll probably have to make some adjustments. Fortunately, as long as the adjustments aren't too over the top, they can all be made from the hinge to adjust the door up or down, loosen the top mounting screw of the cabinet side of the hinge. I didn't really find this to make much of a difference, but that's what it says to do in the directions. Move the door over or back in a left or right motion. Turn the adjustment screw at the front edge of the cabinet side of the hinge to move the door into or out of the cabinet. Turn the center screw on the cabinet side of the hinge. Another way to install doors is to do all of the cup boring first, going ahead and mounting the cup side into the door, then placing the side board face down on the ground. Since we haven't closed up the back yet, we're able to work inside of the cabinet from the back. Note that because of the overhang, you'll have to put a space or underneath it so the front is flushed to the ground one inch, It's what's going to work for you. This won't work for these specific hinges because of the plastic backing, but if you're using different ones, it will now close the hinge and attach the cabinet mount plate, set the doors into their openings, checking for an eighth inch gap all around. Mark where the cabinet side of the hinge hits the cabinet for the screw holes. Pre drill in these holes, then screw the mounting plate into these holes. When you place the side board up, right? It should be placed right. Make any adjustments as needed. Finally, install the door bumpers or magnetic catch in order to stop the doors where you want them. You'll also go ahead and install your door handles or nobs of choice. You can use one of these jigs found at the hardware store, or just carefully level all the handles and measure where the whole set screw in from the inside of the doors and doors. 11. Finishing Your Sideboard: And now that we're done assembling our side board, it's time to finish it. First, take off all of the door handles and knobs will start by giving the whole piece a good sand. Now remember, plywood can be sanded too much and break through the finish. So just be careful sanding any of the plywood pieces. I suggest using a 120 grit and up. Once the piece is smooth to the touch, give the whole thing a wiped down with a damp rag. I tried out homemade wood filler which others have claimed will actually take stain, but I found it to be a huge pain and it still didn't take the stain. So you can do it if you want, but it's made by mixing sawdust with wood glue into a paste. If you're painting, use regular wood filler and don't worry about it. And if you're staining, well, hopefully you don't have too many cracks or unintended holes or gaps that need filling. You have many options when it comes to finishing. For a more thorough overview, please be sure to check out my finishing video on Skillshare. First, remove your doors and doors and shelfs. They'll just get in the way of the finishing. If you're going to paint, you might consider using a primer first. You'll use less paint this way and ensure even coverage. Go over all of your side board with a paintbrush and color of your choice paint. I'm going to stain and I like this dark walnut stain. It is oil-based, so I'll be using a rag and wearing gloves so I don't stain my hands. Wipe on ascend layer to all the pieces and after 15 minutes come back and wipe down the excess. If you want a darker stain, you can add more layers until it's the color that you want. After the stain is dried. I like to wait at least six hours, but a full day is better. I'll go over the full piece with water-based polyurethane. You can choose which Xin you want satin semi gloss and Gloss. I'll be using a SAT and Polly. I like to do two coats on the body and three to four on the top, since that'll be the surface that receives the most use when using poly white streaks are okay on the surface. They'll dry just fine. Drips are no good. They'll leave a milky white drop that it's visible on your project. Take extra care to wipe up drips. I find a dry sponge brush to work well for this. Let the polyhedra two hours in-between coats. After you've put down all your layers of Pauli let that cure for a day or two. Lastly, we'll nail in the back panel to the side board. I like to leave this until the last so that I have maximum access to the inside of the piece. You can choose not to have the back panel to sense it won't be visible. It's up to you. Measure the opening in the back from the top of the side board down to the top of the bottom footer in the back, cut a piece of 1 eighth inch ply or hardy board that amount tall by 37 inches wide. Now place it on the back and nail it and making sure to hit the top apron divider and the bottom shelf. Now install all your knobs and pools, shelfs and doors, and doors again. And that's it. Take your beautiful finished side board into your home and place it where you want it. Then you've gotta make a drink and admire your work. Well done. 12. Final Thoughts: Now you know how to build a side board. That's amazing. This was not a small project and you should be beaming with pride right now. I know I am out with the old dusty age air and end with the sleek, useful sign board where I can hide all of my junk behind doors. Keep on building up your shop. Fine wood from Craigslist, pin inspiration photos to your Pinterest page with pictures that inspire you for future projects. And most importantly, please post a picture of your finished project here. I would love to see how yours turned out. Now, let's go build something.