Building a Laundry Pedestal

1. Intro: Hi everyone, I'm so K Wood Gal. And in this basics of woodworking class, we'll create a laundry pedestal from start to finish. I thought it might be fun to bring in a friend who's interested in woodworking and we'll create the build together. That way you can build step by step alongside a newcomer to carpentry. My friend Colin has been wanting to build a laundry pedestal for his new house to get the machine off the ground and save his back from bending over the dryer. He was game to be on camera. So everyone give Colin a round of applause. Colin, have you done any woodworking before? Not since puberty. In today's class, we'll go over pedestals and their uses as well as considerations for your build design of the pedestal, materials and supplies needed. Making our cuts, assembly, finishing with paint or stain and final thoughts. This class is aimed at students with a rudimentary understanding of woodworking. Access and experience using power tools is recommended, but totally not required. I haven't used the miter saw before, but I trust you to show me how not to kill myself on. I will. Some basic tools are necessary. Eye ear, lung protection, sander or sandpaper, gloves, paintbrush or sponge brush cloth or shop towel mitre. Circular jig or handsaw drill drill bits, nailer or hammer and nail glue and pocket hole jig. So without further adieu, let's get this party started. 2. Overview: Laundry pedestals are expensive. Last time I checked just one pedestal for a dryer was $280 and that leaves you with a small drawer that you can't do much with. Building a pedestal is not only economical, it allows for open space below to store your laundry baskets or other sundry items. Even better, when you build your own pedestal, you get to personalize it how you want. You can add molding, you can choose fancy legs, you can play sorting labels, and you can paint or stain it however you want. I'd like to see the big box stores beat that. Don't you do it? Take some time to look online at different wood and laundry pedestals to see what kind you might like. Next step, we'll measure our space in order to know what will fit and how to design our pedestal. 3. Design: Before we can make any designs or buy our materials, we need to measure our space. I took the opportunity at a birthday party at Collins House to sneak into his laundry room and take some measurements. If you have cabinets above your laundry, you need to know the space between the tops of your machines and the bottoms of the cabinets. You cannot build any pedestal any higher than this for obvious reasons. You also want to know the width and depth of the space, being sure to account for any trim on doors that might impede with the pedestal. Finally, measure your washer and dryer. Though these come fairly standard, they can vary within an inch or two. Be sure to know these dimensions. Now if you've done some perusing online, you might have an idea how you'd like your pedestal to look. Perhaps you want it enclosed with doors or drawers. Just know this will eat up vertical space. Do you want it more like a table without a bottom panel? Will you use two by fours or beef your four by fours or even molded legs, which are expensive, but oh, so fancy. Let's get to work designing this. Bad Boy Collins machines are 27 " wide, 39.5 " tall, and 30.25 " deep. His space is 63 " wide, 36 " deep, and 55 " from the floor to the bottom of the cabinets. With these measurements in hand, we now know our limitations. We'll leave a bit of space between both the washer and dryer, as well as some space on the side, so our platform is not going to fill up the entire width. This also ensures we don't have trouble fitting it in with the door molding getting in the way. The width or the length of the platform will be 60 ". We'll make it 33 " deep. So there's a bit of space in front of the machines, but it doesn't span the entire depth of the opening. Here's where we need to do some math. If the vertical space we have to work with is 55 ", and the machines are 39.5 " tall, we're left with 15.5 " of vertical space. This isn't a lot, but we want to use every bit of this space that we can. We'll make our platform 15 " tall. Since this is fairly short, we're not going to do a bottom platform. It'll be more like a table with the top and legs only. I'd like to use four by fours for sturdier, more substantial legs. I'll use two by fours to brace between the legs at the sides and spanning the width at the back. I'd like the top to look thicker than it actually is, since it's just a sheet of 34 inch plywood. I'm going to trim out the top with two by fours, which will also provide us with more places to secure the legs. The legs will be recessed behind the two by four trim, so they'll extend up to the bottom of the plywood top, making them 14.25 " each. Our beginning depth is 33 ". We'll subtract 3 " for the two by four trim because both front and back two by fours are 1.5 " thick each. We'll subtract another 7 " for each four by four leg each. Four by four is 3.5 " thick. This leaves us with 23 ", which is the length of the two by four support between front and back leg. For the side two by four trim, we don't need to subtract the leg thickness. So we'll have two pieces at 30 ", which is the 33 inch depth minus the thickness of front and back two by four. We'll do a total of five at 30 ", giving us the two sides and three pieces to act as joist underneath the top. For the back, we'll have a 50 in two by four to brace between the back two legs. This is our 60 inch width minus the 8 " for the leg thickness and 3 " for two by four thickness trimming the top. Our last support will be a vertical two by four that will nestle next to the third joist and sit on top of the back support brace. This will be 12.75 " long. I estimate about five feet of molding will take care of additional trimming out. We'll be using this to trim the top of the legs for a decorative look, but it's totally optional. You can choose to cover the exposed face of the plywood with either edge banding or thin trim. It's up to you if you want trim, add another five to six feet of 34 inch wide pine screen molding. This is usually a four inch thick. Now let's gather our materials and supplies. 4. Materials: For Collins Pedestal. We're going to buy the following one sheet of 34 inch plywood. Use cabinet grade here. Eight feet of four by 4582 by 45 feet of molding. Case molding is good for this. An additional 56 feet, four inch thick, 34 inch wide pine screen molding or edge banding. 2.3 inch wood screws, 2.5 in pocket hole screws. Our tools will include what was mentioned at the beginning, eye ear and lung protection. Sander or sandpaper, gloves, paint brush or sponge brush, cloth or shop towel. Circular jig or handsaw drill drill bits. Nailer or hammer and nail glue and a pocket hole jig to counter sync your holes. We're using a Forsner bit, but you can also just use a counter sync bit. I had calling go off on his own and buy primer paint and polyurethane paint color. Did you end up choosing black? He also got some wood filler for finishing later. 5. Cuts: Okay, here comes some fun. We're going to cut our pieces. These cuts are all pretty straightforward and there's not that many pieces to this build, so you should be able to breeze right through. We'll start with our top. You can use a circular saw or jigsaw. Just making sure to utilize the tips I've given for making long cuts in building a simple table. Be sure to get your safety on with a mask goggles, and hearing protection. We'll be making our very first cut with the circular saw because it's too wide to fit on my table saw. But then we'll make the second cut at the table saw. We'll make our marks at 33 " wide by 60 " long. Let's make that 60 inch cut first. The first and most important thing that you need to do is make sure that both sides of your wood are fully supported on an outfit table, a work bench, your table saw, whatever it might be. So that as you're making the cut, they're not going to flip in or out on you, cause a saw to bind, fall on you. None of that is good. You just want to make sure that it stays in place on similar height tables. As you make your cut, make sure there's enough space in between the two that your saw blade isn't going to hit the tables that are there. So you go and you check where your line is and I can see here the tops of these tables, there's no way it's gonna hit that. We've got probably a good what? 7 " on either side of that. There's no way that the saw blade is gonna hit that. Don't put too much because you still want it good and supported near where your cut is going to be. But you need enough to make sure that that blade is not going to eat into say if you've got saw horses, if you're doing it on saw horses. Then the third thing that you need to know is the depth of the blade. You don't want to have it be so much more go down so much more than the thickness of the wood because then you're not having as much blade support as you need. You only need to be just beyond the thickness of the wood. Flip this guy up right here. Pull the blade guard up so that you can set this flush onto your wood. And then you're checking right here the blade and you can pull it up or down. Let's see if we get this right here, just past the thickness of the wood. Does that do you see that? Okay. And then you're going to tighten it down, make sure that that's not going to move on. You you can set up a jig to make this go alongside a two by four and keep your cut straight. I find that to be a bit finicky and so I'm just going to eyeball it here. But I do have that in other classes. How you can set that up for both the jigsaw and a circular saw to set yourself up to have a guide that takes it along. And it goes right alongside this and you just push it up against there and it's like a fence on a table. Saw. It's the same kind of thing, but you've just made it onto the wood. You clamp it down, take it off. When you're done with any of these cuts, we have to make sure that we account for the curve. The curve basically exists to account for the width of the blade, whether it be on the minus saw, the jigsaw, the table saw, whatever it is. Whenever you have a blade that's eating into the wood, it's never going to be so paper thin that you're not missing any of the width of the wood. It's gonna take out some that's just going to be waste. That's the saw dust that you see. Yeah, that's coming up. Try to get that blade just to the right of that line. One of the things that we're going to be doing to account for safety is what you've already got right now. You have your eye protection on, you have your lung protection, and you'll have your hearing protection as well. But not now because you need to be listening to me. Are you listening? I am listening. Okay. Most table saws are going to be equipped with a safety switch. And this has it right here. It's a cover so that it doesn't accidentally get turned on. You have to lift it up before you turn it on. It's not right now because it's not plugged in. But then it's easy to just hit it off. So if at any point you feel any kind of binding of the blade, or you're feeling just a little bit insecure, just immediately reach down, Keep on supporting your playwood so it doesn't ricochet. Turn it off. Hold it. Let me come to. You can set it on either side of the blade that we need. And the way that you would choose that is by making sure that the largest piece of the plywood or sheet of whatever it is you're cutting is going to be the most supported. So you see there's more of a wing here on the table. We want to have the largest side of it there, which means we're going to move the fence over to the left side of the blade. That just makes more sense. If it's a smaller one, it doesn't really matter. It's kind of easier to do the right side for a right handed person, but just make sure you have as much support as possible to that end. We'll have an off feed table here or have a helper in your Woodshop to help get the plywood off the table as it's coming off. Because you don't want it to come and flip up off of you. And it's really hard. I do it by myself. Sometimes it's really hard to run around to the other side as the blade is going and keep it supported, to pull it out. It's obvious. Don't put your hands on a blade. What are you doing? No hands on the blade. The other thing you need to know is, don't start up the blade whenever you have the wood next to it, you can set it while it's off. And you can have the wood right next to the blade, so you know exactly where it needs to go as you're setting the fence. But then before you turn it on, pull the wood away from the blade, turn it on, let it build up speed. And then slowly push the wood through the table saw and let it go all the way through. Before you turn it off, set the fence for the 33 inch cut. Align your mark just to the left or right side of the blade. Depending on which side your fence is set. Set the blade to the waist side of the line and make your cut. Make sure the wood is held securely against the fence. Anytime you're using the table saw, turn on your saw and slowly feed it through. Keeping your hands clear of the blade. Set your top to the side and move on to the miter saw or jigsaw, depending on which you own. We'll cut our four by four legs each at 14.25 ". Make your mark. Set the blade to the waist side and cut. It's very important that these are the exact same length so that there's no wobble in your pedestal trim. If necessary, the myer saw is great because you can easily make your cuts and you make them accurately. And you could do it fast. Yeah, and you're repeatable. You saw how long it took to do the tablesaw table saw is great and you can't do that on the miter saw. But for this, for your every day, two by fours, your one by 44 by four like we're doing, it cuts through like butter and it's accurate and easy. That's what I love about the miter saw, how, how was it the table saw is great because like trying to do something that huge on another tool would be terrible. But yeah, this thing is just like you're in and out. So there's one thing I do want to point out for everyone building along with this, it's hard to get wood that isn't cracked or with knots, or worked. I spent probably an hour and a half at Home Depot yesterday just trying to get the best wood that I could. And it was hard. I had to go through a lot of stinkers in order to find what we did, and it's still not amazing. So for example, with these you see there's some cracking. There's knots that are in there and you don't ever want to end on a knot, first of all because it's a little bit unsafe when the saw is going down, because the knot can come loose and fling back in your face. But also you're not going to be able to screw into that. You can't screw into a knot because it's really hard, you want to screw into the meat of the wood, it's just going to splinter out. So for example, with this one where we have a knot that's right here, That's fine in this case because we're going to make it at the bottom. And we don't need to screw in on this side, we can just screw in here. But the top, we want to be able to screw into it from the top of the laundry riser and not have any knots that are in the way. Okay, if I find that the mark is going to end on a knot, I'm going to start the cut a little further. So I'll cut off the end of it so that I then extend past the knot that was going to be in the way. And cut past it so that no screws are going to be entering in that area. For the two by fours, we'll cut two at 60 ". This is the front and back trim. Next we'll cut one at 50 ". This is the back support brace. Then we'll cut five at 30 ". This is the two side trims and the three joist. Finally, we'll cut two at 23 " and one at 12.75 ". These are the side support braces and the vertical support brace. We'll cut our molding to fit after we've assembled, so don't worry about that right now. 6. Assembly: Before you begin your assembly, I would suggest going ahead and sanding the two by fours. And the four by fours, they can be really, really rough, so take 60 or 90 grit sandpaper and just go at it until they're a little bit smooth so you're not filled with splinters as you're building. And it also takes off some of the work later or have your minion do it for you. And now we're onto the best part of woodworking, the assembly. We'll start with the frame, which is the front and back, two by four trim, the side trim and the joist. We'll be attaching the joist with pocket holes and the sides with screws. Today, we're going to use a pocket hole jig. Have you ever used a pocket hole jig? Is that a type of dance move? A jig, nope. Not only have I never used it, I've never heard of it. You're going to be a changed man from here on out. Calling the pocket hole jig is a fantastic invention that allows you to have hidden holes that make joints in your project. So if you have this here, instead of having a screw to the outside that's going to be visible, it's hidden underneath the wood. You can place it underneath your furniture. It's a really great strong joint that you can use and they're really easy to use as well. You don't have to mess with complicated dovetails or mortar an tennon. It's just a very easy joint to make. The way that it's set up is you use this special Jeg here. You set the depth, we'll go into that later. You drill the holes into the wood, and then you place the wood onto whatever it is that you're making the joint. And the screw goes in here and it's hidden. You see you don't see it. You can even plug this up so that if it is on a surface that's visible, it's going to be a smooth flush surface that gets filled and you don't have any screw head. Okay. The pocket hole, Jeg basically works. This is the depth gauge that you have based on your material. So on the side here you see this is for two inch 34 material, 7081. You set it depending on how thick your wood is. And since we're going to be doing two by fours, we're going to do 1.2 That's nominal measurements. A two by four isn't actually 2 " by 4 ", it's one on a two by 3.2 So you would set the width of your wood here. This moves up and down with this little dial here and you have to loosen it up pretty good before you can move it. And this just goes up and down, so we find the one on a two. We do the set screw nice and tight. Then the only other thing that we have to do is set our special pocket hole screw here. We have a really nice guide that you line up for, again, the width of your material. We're going to set this here and we want the tip of the screw to hit the gauge for your width of material 1.5 This is referring to the end of the gauge you want this collar to end, where this will put you at 1.5 You can loosen the collar, set it where it needs to go, then tighten the collar. This is what's going to stop the drill bit as you put it in. And that depends on where the hole is going to start on the wood. When you have thicker wood, it starts higher up. When you have thinner wood, it's going to start here because you're using a shorter screw. You put in your wood, make sure you know which side you're going to do the pocket hole on. Usually do it on the side that you don't want facing out front most of the time. Sometimes there's some exceptions there will be today. And then if this is too tight, you can't clamp it, you need to loosen it up a little bit. And then just make sure it's a good tight fit. So first set your pocket hole, Jeg to the thickness of your material. Ours is 1.5 ". Then set your depth collar for 1.5 inch material. We'll drill two pocket holes in each end of the three joist. We'll also be pocket holing the back and side support bracing. So place two holes at each end of the 223 inch supports as well as the 50 inch. Now line up your pieces and check for fit. The front and back will be sandwiching the two side pieces and the joist will be evenly spaced between. Measure the depth and width. If it's 33 x 60, you are so good to go. If not, then your cuts might have been just a tad off and you're going to need to trim off to get it to spec. We'll screw in our sides to the front and back. First, glue the ends before screwing. Use your helper or use clamps to keep the frame and square. While you drive three inch screws from the front and back into the sides, do one at top and one at bottom. After drilling, use a counter sink bit so you can fill in the hole with wood filler if you'll be painting. We're not using pocket holes here because they're going to interfere with attaching the legs. Attach front and back to sides for both sides of the platform. Then we'll attach the joist. Put 13.1 eighth inch space between each screw in with 2.5 inch pocket hole screws checking for square. Next we'll attach our legs. I suggest nestling the four by four into the corners. It's important that these are flushed to the top of your frame so that there's no differing heights in each of the legs. If you can build face down on a workbench or a flat floor here, we went ahead and put it on the tabletop, just so we knew that everything was nice and flat. Frequently check that the legs are flush with the top. We're going to glue first on the surfaces that will be in contact with the sides. Then we'll pre drill and drive three inch screws from the outside on the sides into the leg. Try to place these in a way that won't hit the screws you placed previously. Since those were at top and bottom. Aim for the center area here, put into, then move to the front. Since this will be facing out, we'll be counter sinking these holes to fill with wood filler later. After gluing, drill your hole. Then counter sink and drive 23 inch screws into the leg from the front trim, evenly spaced. Do this to all four legs of your pedestal. No need to counter sink, hole the back legs since they won't be visible. Now let's add our support braces. Start with the back 50 in two by four. Place it between the back two legs wide, face down, so that it's flush on either side of the four by four. Keep the pocket holes to the top. Glue the ends, then screw with 2.5 inch pocket hole screws into the leg. Do this on each side. You can do this without a pocket hole jig, but you'll have to use absurdly long screws to get through the four by four material. Now we'll add our side support braces. Take your 23 inch support brace, wide side down, and glue the ends. Keep the pocket holes face to the ground. Doing so keeps the screws from hitting each other. Screw with 2.5 inch pocket hole, screws into the leg on both sides of the support brace. Do the same for the other side, support brace, pocket hole, side down. Add your last support, the middle vertical one, that's 12.75 " long. This will go to the inside of the top frame and rest on top of the bottom support brace. Measure 26 " over from the end of the back bottom support brace and make a mark. Measure 31 " over from the back left side of your frame and mark it. This is right next to your third joist. Glue. The top and bottom pre drill and screw with two inch screws from the back trim into the support, From the underside of the bottom brace into the support, and from the joist into the support. Now we can finally add the top. Take your top piece and place it flush to the top of your pedestal. Check that everything fits, snugly, trim, if needed, put glue on the tops of the legs and the tops of the joist and two by four frame, set it in place. We're going to add just one screw per leg with two inch screws from the top of the table into the legs. Be sure to counter sink it so it doesn't protrude. Do this on all four legs from the top. Now we're going to cut the molding to fit. This is always best done as you go because your final measurements are always going to differ just a tiny bit from your original plan. To start either edge band or trim out the exposed front edge of the plywood. We won't bother with the sides because they won't be seen. So there's no point in wasting material. If you're using edge banding, start at one edge. Just a tad proud of the end. It can tend to shift as you go and you don't want it to fall short of the length. With your iron preheated, press the banding at the end to melt the glue and adhere it to the edge. Hold your iron in place along the wood for five or so seconds, each section. And follow with a very flat block to press the banding down. Once you've reached the end, cut it with scissors or a box cutter. Trim your starter side if needed. If you're using pine screen molding, like we are, cut your piece the length of the front, which should be 60 ". You can use your helper here, or if you have a clamp with a wide enough reach, you can clamp it in place. Be sure to glue first. Then take a Brad nailer with one to 1.5 inch nails or a hammer and nails. And nail it in along the length of the front, being sure to aim your nail straight into the plywood edge. Now we'll cut the trim molding for the legs. This is of course optional. We're going to cut this at 45 degree bevel ends for a clean, classy look. Now, using the bevel on the miter saw is a little bit scary, so I did this part. I don't think Colin was ready for this. Please don't take this on unless you've done beveled cuts before. We're going to do a bevel cut first on our first end. And then we come over here and we're going to line it up to mark where this leg ends. And that's going to be the start of the other side of our bevel cut. If you have a bevel with your mitre saw, some of them are only mitre. This one happens to have a mitre and a bevel. It also gets released this way. You turn this knob until it loosens up. And you get to adjust this. You can go either to the left or to the right to whatever angle it is that you want. We want a 45 and we're looking for 45 over here. Once we hit that, we go here and we tighten it down. Start by setting your miter saw to a 45 degree level and cut one end of your trim. Bevel it toward the back side of the trim. Now place the end of that bevel flush with the edge of the leg, with the pointed end extending past the leg, the long edge. This is the short edge, for obvious reasons, we're going to line this short edge up with the absolute edge of this leg. Then what we do, make sure that's good and flush, is we're going to draw a line where this leg ends on the back side of this trim. And that's going to be the start of the short edge. So just like here, the short edge needs to be against here, pointing out to a long edge to make them non parallel. This would be a parallel cut. You see how both of them are facing the same direction? Yes. Parallel around? Yeah. Yeah. Basic geometry. Yeah. So we don't want to do this whenever we're cutting our molding, We want them to be non parallel, which is like a trapezoid, right? Yeah, and that would be like this bevel, this cut non parallel to the other bevel. So both pointed ends reach out like a trapezoid. Okay, so this is our first piece, took a couple of tries. What's good is that you overcut first, and then you just bit by bit make it until it fits. Obviously, if you undercut it, you can't make the wood grow, but you can trim it down from there. So that's why you always overbuy your trim just so that you can have some waste pieces. Especially if you're going to be doing miners or bevels because things are bound to be messed up at some point and you have it to work with no sweat. Not a big deal. So here, I don't know if you can see this or not, we have non parallel ends. So this is a trapezoid like I was saying. And that's what a non parallel bevel can get you. And so when we go to cut this next piece, this one has already been done. It meets really nicely right here. And it forms just a little frame that is perfectly together that goes and surrounds the leg. And we're going to do that on each side, all four sides of the leg. If we were doing a mitre, that's where it would be like this. Where it's still an angled edge, but it's not angled into the wood, it's angled across the wood. And that would not look right on this. You couldn't make it work in a way that it would meet nicely at the corners. Since we're trimming out a perfect square, we can use this piece as our template for the other ones. However, I found that it was better just to measure as I went because things just got off a little bit. We'll have four for each leg. Repeat this process seven times for a total of eight beveled trim pieces, glue the backs of each piece. Then Brad nail each one into place flush with the bottom of the top frame. I also went ahead and threw in a couple of Brad nails to the top, into the joist and the trim that just made sure that it's as secure as possible at all places and isn't going to have any gaps between the top and the trim. It's not for support. We're totally fine with the screws and the weight of the washer and dryer. Check out how strong this is. The very graceful, you dance the chick, you do it. You know it call you do it. You take this row and row. Whoa. Okay. That was a good amount of work, but you should now be staring at a complete functional pedestal for your laundry room. Were don't go. I know Colin is thrilled, and you probably are too. 7. Finishing: Now that you've completed the assembly of your pedestal, it's time to make it truly shine and personalize it with finishing, I went ahead and sent Collin off to do this on his own. So let's check in with him and see how it's going to begin with. He's going to fill all the holes with wood filler. You need to fill in the counter sink holes, as well as the beveled ends and the gaps between the wood on the pedestal. Since Colin is going to be painting, he can make this as smooth as possible. Then he's going to let it dry and then sand the pedestal. Do this in graduated grits. Start with 120 and then move up to 220. Be very careful with the top of the plywood as you can easily work your way through the veneer. If you're not careful or if you're too aggressive with your sanding, only use the 220 grit here. Once everything is as soft to the touch as you desire, give every bit of it a good wiped down. Any debris left on the surface will end up in your paint and mar the finish. Colin's going to be painting, but if you're staining, use a sponge brush or shop towel to apply. Making sure to stir your stain beforehand. Remove the excess with the shop towel. Within a few minutes of application, I suggest putting down a primer first if you're painting, because this thirsty plywood is going to suck up all of the expensive paint. Colin is applying the primer first on every surface that's going to get paint. After this is dry, stir your paint well and apply even smooth strokes with the paint brush. Multiple coats might be necessary depending on the coverage your paint offers. Once this is dry, Colin is going to protect the paint with polyurethane for the wear and tear of a laundry room. If you use oil based polyurethane, beware that it can leave a yellow tint on white paint. But it does give a more robust and lasting finish. You clean that up with mineral spirits. Colin is going to be using a water based poly and applying it with a sponge brush. Now, be sure to catch any drips with a dry brush as they will dry a milky white and be visible on your completed project. Several coats are necessary unless you're using triple thick. Now, let this dry and cure. 8. FinalThoughts: Right now. I forgot. We're just robbing it down for I forgot what we're doing. We just need to move the drive out. Finally. Got it. Then what do you think? Think it was easier to build and to get it into the space. And that, do you think that you'll be doing more projects from here? Is this felt empowering to Oh definitely this felt really empowering. Good. Thank you so much. Plank you much. I'm excited for you to not have to bend over and do your laundry. Is this is an upgrade? No. I mean, look, it's fantastic. I can just reach in exactly normal level height, and it just makes it so much easier. Tough. Oh man, way to go. Now, you and Colin know how to build a laundry pedestal. I encourage you to keep on building up your wood chop, acquire tools, dream up new ideas and ways to grow and take on new challenges. It's all part of the fun. Most importantly, post a picture of your finished laundry pedestal here. I love to see what you've made and how you've made it your own. And lastly, if you enjoyed this class, would you consider leaving a review? Reviews. Let me know that you're with me on the classes I upload. And it also helps other students, just like you, to find the class, plus Colin wants to hear from you. Thank you for watching. It really means a lot to me that we're building together lesson by lesson. So now let's get on to building some more fun projects.