Iberian Lynx: A Free-Flow Watercolour Masterclass with Jane Davies | Jane Davies | Skillshare

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Iberian Lynx: A Free-Flow Watercolour Masterclass with Jane Davies

teacher avatar Jane Davies, Professional Artist and Teacher

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      4:14

    • 2.

      Materials

      5:49

    • 3.

      Sketching Out

      4:04

    • 4.

      Body

      20:42

    • 5.

      Head

      17:07

    • 6.

      Eye

      4:35

    • 7.

      Eye Makeup

      7:47

    • 8.

      Eye Catchlight

      1:22

    • 9.

      Back Ear and Nose

      6:12

    • 10.

      Finishing Off

      23:43

    • 11.

      Final Thoughts

      1:13

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About This Class

Have you always wanted to create beautiful, loose, quick-flowing wet-on-wet watercolour with the simplest of touches, then let me show you how! 

In this class, I will show you how to paint this majestic Iberian Lynx in real-time without any brushstrokes, that's right without any brushstrokes… we will simply be placing paint onto wet paper and allowing the magic to happen. This is my free-flow technique and it's very best!

Enjoy :-)

If you’re just starting your watercolour journey and feel a bit daunted I have three beginner classes that introduce you to my basic techniques

Simple trees

Butterflies

Balloon dog

Though if you are feeling game come and join me :-)

I’ll be showing you:

  • How an interesting technique allows us to control the paint and water while painting wet on wet
  • How gravity can create us some lovely movement and life 
  • How to paint that lovely expressive eye using layers and colours
  • How to add those all-important finishing touches that add the wow factor!

Before you start, it's well worth checking out this BBC 8-minute video on the conservation effort to bring back the Iberian Lynx. I love watching things like this, it really helps me engage with my subject and puts a completely new perspective on things

You will be creating this wonderful Iberian Lynx and be amazed and inspired to add these simple techniques to your future artwork with confidence

Past reviews

"There is only one word to describe Jane Davies' classes - MAGICAL!”

“Another Fantastic class from Jane. Jane's gentle & patient approach provides students with lessons that feel like you are sat opposite her with a cuppa. She provides wonderful feedback and encouragement. Without question, she is my favourite teacher on Skillshare.”

"Highly recommend this class. Jane has a different way of painting in watercolour, straight from the tube. For me, this resulted in the best watercolour painting I have ever done. She gives clear instructions, step by step, and works at a pace that is not overwhelming. I cannot wait to try another one of her classes"

“Jane is an excellent teacher, and her clear instructions mean anyone, even complete beginners, can have a go and produce a piece of work that they will be very pleased with. Highly recommended.”

“This is a great video class by the very generous teacher Jane Davies. I really enjoyed attempting this with Jane's unusual but effective technique. Thank you, Jane”

"Wonderful class. Jane is an excellent teacher, guiding you through each stage with clear instructions and demonstrations. I love her friendly, informal style”

Music by Audionautix.com

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Jane Davies

Professional Artist and Teacher

Top Teacher

Let me tell you a bit about myself...

I'm an international selling artist specializing in painting pet portraits and wildlife. I live, paint, teach,
and walk my lovely Spaniels in the beautiful South Downs National Park, England.

Over the last twenty years, I've taught myself the watercolour techniques you see today. Not having been to art school, finding my own way has been fun and sometimes daunting but has allowed me to develop my own unique style.


... See full profile

Level: Advanced

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello, and welcome to the advanced watercolor class. Today, we're going to be painting these magical Iberian links together. It's a really interesting class, if I do say so myself. Now, I was lucky enough to be a finalist in the David Shepherd Wildlife Artist of the Year Competition, 2024, painting these links. And I'm going to show you how I did it. I'm Jane Davis. I live, paint, teach, and walk my lovely spaniels in the beautiful South Downs National Park, England. Over the last 15 years, I've taught myself the free flow technique that you see today. Not having been to art school, finding my own way has been fun and sometimes daunting, but has allowed me to develop my own style. This has led me to teaching others, either on a one to one basis or as part of a group in a wonderful studio in the heart of the South Downs. I also run a successful commission based business, painting pet portraits and wildlife art in my own home studio. In all my classes, you will follow along in real time, where I can guide you to keeping your work loose and fresh without over fussing. I have over 20 classes available in skill share now. If you're just starting out, my three beginner classes will guide you. Then you'll find over 20 master classes, covering a wide range of beautiful subjects. In each one, I'll share the techniques that I use in my own professional work. We'll have a lot of fun together, and you'll gain the understanding and confidence to incorporate everything you learn into your own work. Plus, I'll share a few of my tips and tricks along the way too. As ever, I provided you with a wonderful reference photo, along with a downloadable template for you to print out. The template will give you a stress free drawing so you can just enjoy the painting. I'll be showing you a great technique that I discovered while painting this Iberian linx that allowed me to control how the paint flowed while painting wet and wet. I'll be demonstrating the whens, whys, and hows to painting the expressive eye with several colors and layers. There's a wealth of other tips and tricks I'll be sharing with you as we work our way through this special class together. If you'd like to learn more about me or my work, please pop over to my website at Jane Davis watercolors.uk. This can be found on my profile page, along with links to my Instagram and Facebook pages. I'm very active on my social media pages, where I love sharing my art, especially on stories with many ideas, works in progress, and tales of studio life. I really hope you will share all your paintings on the projects and resources pages. As I love seeing your masterpieces. And don't forget, I'm here to help if you get stuck or have any questions. I want you to experience that buzz of painting in this liberating, wet and wet, loose style. So come and join me. 2. Materials: I'm going to run through all the materials you need to paint this beautiful Iberian links. Now, before I start introducing these materials, I've popped in the projects and resources pages, a really lovely little short video. It's only like 8 minutes run by the BBC. And it just goes into the story of the Iberian links. They were near to extinction. I think, if I rightly remember, there was only 25 breeding females left in the world. So they've really they've really come quite a journey. And I think, if I'm right again, remember correctly, I think from June of this year, they've been taken off the endangered list, which is astonishing and really heartwarming, actually. Um And the other side of it, watching this video really helps to sort of engage with the painting. It kind of you become involved with it. And there's such magical sort of fluid animals, and it's just what wad color is about, as well, isn't it? So they almost encapsulate that lovely fluidity. So well worth a watch if you can spare the time. Right. Down to business. Let me run through all the materials you're going to need. Again, as ever, it's a nice collection of Daniel Smith paints. If you haven't got these exact colors, like I always say, choose the nearest you can. I have there's a little color swatch in the projects and resources pages again, which, break down what the actual colors look like individually. When you look at the Iberian links, they have many sort of colors. They are mainly a sort of sandy sandy, but I've got a few pieces I did, but were a little bit grayer. So don't feel what I'm trying to say is don't feel to a slave to the colors. The granulating aspect I found nice gave me a nice amount of texture. But again, that can be created with little bits of salt, so yes, don't be too worried if you haven't got these exact colors. Right. From the top. I have gratitanium. I have Joseph Z W gray. I have a sepia. I always got a sepia. And I've nearly always got a go through it. I love this color. It always It always seems to be the right one. I've got a tiny little bit of yellow ocher. That is just for the eyes, so it's tiny, tiny amounts. Little bit of lazylaz. Again, there's just tiny hints of that blue there and a rather shabby little tube of gosh, right. And that's again just for doing the little catchlights. The paper is Bockingford, and that's been stretched onto a perfect paper stretch. So it's stretch paper, and again, all these can be found in the projects and re sources pages, and I will put a link to this paper stretch, a real really good board. Just go and have a look. I've explained it a couple of times, so I won't go through it again. Right, I have something that's going to tilt my board is about an inch high. So just to say, it just gives my ball a little bit of a tilt. It can be anything. Obviously, a pot of water. I've got some mask in fluid, which is just to do those lovely whiskers. And I have got, which I just noticed it's not on the board. I'm going to pop that down. I'll explain that in a second. A little bit of salt, a rubber kitchen paper towel, kitchen roll. I obviously a pencil, and a little chappy is ascriber. And one of my lovely one to ones that came to the studio for a lesson suggested this game changer. It's lovely and get some really lovely fine lines for those whiskers. So again, I will pop a little link again. I have to admit that's from Amazon, so nothing is too fancy. I've only two brushes. Didn't need too much to date. I've got a number aught, but that you could easily have a one or a two, so don't worry if you haven't got a aught, and I have a number ten. Again, the size on the pan art is a little misleading. So that would probably be a six probably some other manufacturers again with a number at that could well be a number two or three. Hair dryer, which is off camera. Again, just useful just to finish off drying, but obviously not essential in any means. There's a lovely reference photo on the projects and resources pages. I seem to be saying that word a lot. But that's there for you to use along with a downloadable ten plate. And there is. And then to pop. I've painted this. Oh, quite a few times. I'm looking around my studio. There's so many caps or links, should I say. So I'll pop some of the better ones on there so you can have a look and just see how different they all turn out. The joys of Watercolor. What was the other thing I was going to mention O. I will also put a picture of my Finnish Iberian links, which was exhibited at the David Shepherd Artist of the Year Competition, or Wildlife artists of the Year Competition, this year, which is 2024, as I'm filming this. So I'll pop that in there as well, so you can have a little look and I ply pop a few photos of me there as well. Right. I think I have mentioned everything that you need. So the next thing is to go and get this lovely one sketched out. 3. Sketching Out: Right then, before we can start the painting, we need to sketch this lovely links out. So I'm going to give you just a few hints and tips. As ever there's that downloadable template in the projects and resources. So if you're not 100% confident of drawing these links out correctly, I would strongly suggest using the template because as always say, it just gives you the right shape so you can enjoy the painting. So once you have used your template and you sketched it out, bear in mind to try and keep your pencil marks as light as you can. Now you might think, well, she'd done her quite strong. This is really, so you can see what I'm doing, because I do mine as light as I would ideally like, you may struggle to see what I'm painting. So so keep your pencil marks lighter than mine, especially on any top area where in theory, the light should be shining because it's lovely to lose those pencil marks once it's finished. The other important bit is the nose and obviously the eye because a lot of this is just wonderfully loose. It's all left a lot of it to of the imagination. But unless we have the eye right and the nose right and to the placement of some of the ear, then you need that focal point to really bring this painting to life. So really take your time with that eye. The whisk, I'll come onto the masking fluid in a bit. Again, it's just getting those lines in. The nice sweeps nice sort of curve forward of this leg. A slight. You can see just coming in a little bit to was that 7:00. And that back leg is just moving in a bit. It just gives you that lovely sort of sweeping shape. Masking fluid. I was going to start with the whiskers, but that's the masking fluid a bit. So obviously, if you, the masking fluid is fabulous for doing whiskers, and I have got, and a lovely student recommended this, and there's a little scriber, brilliant, really brilliant for doing whiskers and keeping them lovely and thin. So once you rub those out, you've got some lovely fine whiskers. Again, the little splatters. I've just popped that scribe into the masking fluid, and just flick. Now, some of them, I'm going to rub out in a minute, have got too thick, too big or maybe misplaced, you may have got one over the eye or once they've completely dried, then you can rub them out. What I was suggested, obviously, do you flick, do you little whiskers, step away, give it to 10 minutes. That will allow those masking fluid drips and dribbles to dry, and you can look at your paint at your soil, your drawing. And just make sure you're happy with it before you start the painting. So that's probably my sort of tips really for sketching it, sketching Yeah, sketching the links out. So I would remove. So I'm just going to remove this while I think of it now. That one's a bit chunky. Don't get rid of that. That one again, bit chunky. I think I like the others. Just be careful if you have got spots amongst the whiskers, you don't rub the whiskers out because then you'll have to reapply. Equally, if you've got one of the whiskers that have gone a bit chunky, you can take that out and obviously reapply, you will have to allow that to dry again. The rest I think I'm happy with, I don't like too many around the face. It's all tracks a bit. But again, it's a little bit of what you like. And of course, if you don't like the splashes, that's entirely up to you. You don't have to add them. They're just I try and add everything so you can have the choice of either adding or not adding. Anyway, right. I say, allow that masking fluid to dry before you start your painting, and I'll see you in the next lesson. 4. Body: Right. Let's get some paint on this wonderful links. But first, I'm just going to get rid of the masking fluid. I don't need that. Don't need ascribe clear my decks a bit. Get rid of the pencil as well, so just gives me and the rubber. I don't need that. Gives me a little bit more room. All right. Okay. So pick up your bigger brush, get it lovely and wet, we wake it up. And we're going to add a little bit of water. So I probably should have said this in the sketching out bit. Make sure you got this pencil mark here cause just it's not incredibly important. It's going to say it's just where we're going to add this water now you can see, so don't panic if you haven't got it. Okay, so we've just wet that little patch up there, and I'm going to pick up. I'm going to pick up the gray, a little bit of blue. Let's have some of the gothit. I'm going to pop a little bit of the gray at the top. I doesn't matter how you do this really. We just but get a nice amount because in theory, this has got to come all the way down here. But of course we can't add more paint, don't panic too much. We get a nice amount on there. So don't be afraid, you can pop the colors on top of one another. It really doesn't matter. Let's have a little bit of that lapsi lazo. Mike, I love this color. It's just so beautiful. And I've actually had this tube for many, many years. I've got to be four or five years now this tube. So although they're expensive, some things just last. Right. Put a nice amount of goth down in this corner here. You're almost sort of scooping it up. You're getting a real mount. You might have a little bit of the gray as well. You can see it's quite dark in this corner. You're coming right up. You can see there's that little white patch here, isn't there? So you're coming right up to that. We're leaving the white patch clear right to the very end. So Okay. Once you've got that little bit there, et just pop some of the cumbers down for a second. And I'm going to give my ball a little bit of a tilt. And ideally, I want it to run in this direction, so it's coming across the ball, so I'm going to pop that up there. That's allowing that paint to flow. Clean a brush, and we're just going to pull it down. Doesn't matter. It's not desperately important whereabouts come down the body, but just somewhere like halfway. And if you leave little dry patches, I think that's all part of the sort of charm of this, but be careful you don't go over your lines. Right. Okay, as you can see, a lot of that paint has moved, so we need to add a little bit more at this point. So I can add a little bit. G th. Whatever you think you're missing at this point, let's say you've got that reference vote in front of you squint your eyes, see what you think you would like to see, a little bit more. You can see there is that quite obvious conveniently. A lovely sort of go thy colored u Sort of rough there. I'm only chuckling because 'cause I use go thy a lot. It always seems to be the right color. Just a little tip of adding more paint as you go. Now, I just did it, which made me think a bit of it. I cleaned my brush off, I came back in, and I still had quite a wet brush. And what you can end up with, like I'm doing here is lots of puddles. Now we need it wet and you need to keep it all damp, but you can add end up adding too much paint. A becomes a little bit too much. You really want to clean your brush, dip it on a paper towel, then go into your paint. That way, you're not adding lots of extra water. It's very tempting to to do that. Okay. As you stand, If you can stand at this stage, even, if it's only just for five, 10 minutes, it is a lovely time to be standing. Oops. We that splattered from? Okay. If you haven't had any splatters like this, it's always best just to leave them completely dry and get them off once they're dried. We've a magic sponge, which I mentioned in the last class, which I will probably link to and see if I can find it somewhere in my studio. It's it's actually a cleaning product, but it's amazing for getting things like that off. Okay. What I need to bear in mind, while this is still wet and still running beautifully, I need to just do a few flicks. Now, flicks are always best done when the paint and paper is nice and wet, so pick up my little brush. I can use some of the paint if you've got enough paint on the edge, you can use the paint on the edge. If not, you can just add a little bit on your brush. Now go carefully with those, and I always start don't start right on the edge because it's very easy to get very long bits of Coat for if you do come in a little bit, that sweep just ends up at the edge of the painting, that kind of makes sense. I say, don't go don't go methodically all the way down, try and do random little bits. Now, while I'm trying to achieve, that ing, I want that flow running downwards. It just looks like he's just turned his neck. S So I'm just just leading that run at the moment. I don't think I need any other color here at the moment. But I'm just making sure there's no extra dribble marks. No, my studio is quite warm today. It's a really hot Summer's Day for changing the UK. So I can see this is drying quite quickly. Again, bear in mind, your paper will dry at different rates in mine. So you want it, which still sort of starting to go off. You can start to see the very tops of the grania paper appearing. That's the perfect sort of magic point. Now, I think I'm going to give her a little tilt, so we're then working our way downwards. We can always lift the board. And if you feel you're giving it a little bit more of a tilt helps you, then do that. Any point, but I'm going to try and allow this to run down here, and we're going to again wet brush. I'm clean. No paint on this at the moment, and we're just going to run it down this direction down to the There's a rather complicated bit here. This is white fluff, and this is the actual leg. So actually, I'm going to go in to the edge of the leg. At this stage, I'm going to pop a little bit the laps eye lazoi in there. Let's have a little bit of the great detaium, as well. Because we've got this on a tilt, we shouldn't go upwards because we've got it on a tilt, so That's a nice way to control some things. Okay, let's start touching some of this up here and Allar it to run it. What we want to do is try and leave a tiny little line here. Just a little dry line, so you're not touching the chest area. Again, just run that down to not. Say opposite where the chest is. Let's go there. Again, if you have any little dry patches, don't worry about that. I think that's part of the charm. And again, look at that reference photo, See what colors you see. And let's pick up the Joseph and go the and the gray. That's how all those four. And again, keeping everything wonderfully light, everything loose. Just just touching the paper. Don't want to put too much pressure on and a little bit more water if that helps. You want some nice dribble marks. We're just after some really after some random texture. Random marks. Sometimes the masking fluid helps because it actually, it goes round the little dry patches. Let's had. There's a nice lump. That looks very nice, is it? There's a nice patch of color. Just coming off this chest, let's have a little bit of sepia, not the gray. Let's just tap that in and allow that to run. Okay, right. Before this completely dries up the top here, I'm going to go back up to the top. And when I go to wets on. I disappearing off the camera. I'm going to wet the head. Now, don't worry because if you get any run marks that touch because you want to touch this paint, and then hopefully, we'll encourage some funny run marks to happen. This is all trying to be. It's quite hard to teach randomness and spontaneity. I've found this a little trickier because I did this the actual exhibition piece in Spain one afternoon. It was quite quick, and it just some paintings just happen. So it's trying to if you could bag that confidence you have when you're just playing, it would be a wonderful thing, wouldn't it? Okay, so we're just wetting round the head, not going into the eyes, just around the cheek. It doesn't matter too much. I'm not going to put any color. What I want to do is soften this line here and allow any dribble marks to happen. And also, we need to try and pop a little bit of Just come low those stripes in as well. Before we completely let things dry. And what I might do, again, be a gauge of how that running. If you think you need a different angle, then pop it at a different angle. I'm going to I'm starting to lose some of that feeling of going coming into this edge here, so I've just popped it back at that angle I first started with. It's coming back down here to 7:00. And I can add again, I can add a little bit of water. This is still wetter at the top here, so I know I'm not going to leave any funny marks. And even if you did, I think for this, it doesn't matter. Somehow part of the charm of it. All right. The thing of adding lots of extra water. Just be mindful of any dribble marks. We want it wetter because it doesn't have to be bone dry here, or if we have just monitor that particle, should I say, because we're going to pull that down in a minute. You don't want it too dry down here, it's just just to stop them actually physically running down. And even then you'd have some sort of unusual ribble, so R. Let's get the stripes in before I lose this drys on me. I quite like the spa, I quite like the goth. Although the reference photo shows some lovely stripes, They are actually quite spotty. So, let's squint your eye. You can see there's a lovely one coming here. And if that runs into that, that sort of middle area. That's fine if it where we allowed this paint to run, my paper slight, even though it's been stretched, it's slightly buckling on me, and it's actually running down the center there. But any runs you have, don't worry. And if they're running into your stripes, again, let them soften and run. So let that water run into any stripes. I can see this is slightly being into dry on me. I'm just re wetting this. Again, be careful of this bottom area. Stock some of that up. Okay. Back to stripes. Right. Stripes are quite hard to put on because the eve are too wet and they disappear. It's just catching at the right time. You got to just that nice softness. As I say. We've lost this I've lost a stronger mark down here as well. So just adding a little bit more water. Stripe down there. Say, look at your own piece, look where you need the stripe spots. As saying, I'm not sure if I've finished that conversation, actually. They are quite spotty act you rather than strip, though this one looks quite stripy. They have actually. They're actually quite spotty. A little bit of a tools if I can get there something to. Yeah, that's nice. It's just to me, looking quite random and interesting. That's all I'm after. I'm after interest rather than accuracy on spots or stripes. If something appears to be best way I can describe it is interesting, I suppose, it's going says to me I like that, that's doing something a little bit different. So I picked up a little bit of Joseph to add a bit of coolness in there trying not to touch go into that white line. We will soften that white line down in a minute. That little dry line. We popped in, but the time being, because that's very wet, I don't want to join them. What have we got? Let's see how that's a pot that you can see in my stripes disappearing up there. It's a ling low to run. It's a nice one just there. You don't need too many, just to give an example. So sort of we almost have to pick up pick your favorite part you'd like to see a stripe on. So I'm not going to get to bogged down with adding every stripe. Slash spot. They take your brush away, see we think say if you are sitting, did to stand up to just for a fraction of a second, get yourself away from it, or if you're standing, step back a little bit, see how things are looking. I'm liking that. That's looking right. I'm I'm tempted just to leave that for the time being. Now, I have got some salt. So I might pop a little bit of salt because this is starting to dry. This is still wet, and we still need to do those lower legs, but obviously because it's on the tilt, things are dry and quicker at the top. Again, salt is up to you. And if you're using granulated paints like I am, to be honest with you, that doesn't have a huge effect. So I'm just going to pop it on there if you may be using different paints for me. And you can see the salt defect. Okay. Let's pop that back down. Right. What we need to do. Disappearing off there. It's just the side part. There's a lovely sweep of the back and we can touch this again. If you get any things that are sort of running down, don't worry. I'm just going to run it a little bit down. To that leg. I can touch it all way down a little bit there along the top edge, and we're just going to add a little bit of the grate and the lapsi las. G. Yeah, say, step away, see what you think, A brush right on the edge right on the s on the lane flat. I'm trying to get some of those sort of unusual kind of dry patches. I don't want to put too much on that back. Again, you can see I've lost that strong line down here as well. I pop. Get this to stay. A little bit of CPA. I don't need a lot. It doesn't have to. Although it does run all ways from the top to the bottom, we don't have to add it all the way along. Sometimes just a nice gap is nice. Alright, Let's see if we can finish off these legs. I'm just going to suck up some of these water, a lot of water sitting here. This is a little saturated now, but, so I'm just putting the edge of the kitchen roll into the corner and allowing it to soak up. All right, let's clean bush, take the excess water off of your kitchen roll, and we're just going to again, like we did here. Really flat. I'm just running pulling a little bit out. Some of these funny little bits at the end are the hardest to do because they're just done spontaneous. They're very spontaneous, and they're very quick. And when you think about them, they're harder to do. Okay, let's join this up, though it's a little bit wet. I don't want to leave that white line sitting there. Okay, Let's take a step back again, looking at it. Even squint your eyes. I think that's looking okay. Let's join this front leg, sorry. The forward leg. So the leg that's actually sitting behind, so I say again, just run that down a little away. If you get something you like, and you take your brush away and go with that I like that, leave it. Don't do it anymore because that's I say the hardest thing the bottom because I'm trying to con consciously show you a technique that's done or subconsciously. So it's one of those quick things you do very quickly, and it works. On my little brush. Rolled underneath the ball to grab that. I also need to do a few little flicks as well before this dry. So again, same rules apply from the top. Just pull those out. Just a few. Okay, I'm just going to add a little bit of the black sy lazo underneath this on the chest here again. I like this blue. I add a bit b blue there. A little bit blew at the top. Now, we're coming to quite a danger zone now. 'cause this is almost dry. This, we'd be fiddling as well. This is where you can fiddle. And then all of a sudden fiddling is not the right thing to do. You can carry on there's a point where carrying on working or fiddling suddenly doesn't help. And I think I'm at it now. I've just got to allow all those sort of things to move around and just hopefully create something interesting. That's all I'm after. As I say, I'm not after accuracy of the stripes spots. I want to just have a quick look before you, you down brush. I'll tell you what I will do, actually. I'm going to leave this. I'm going to actually use my salt pot. I'm going to leave this to dry, and a little bit more of tilt cause I'm just feeling wild today. And I'm just going to run a little bit of water here. Now, what you need to do again is to watch this. This is just right for my piece, if you feel you've got enough runny marks and don't do it, but it can be really mindful because they're going to start appearing at the bottom there. What I want. I just want that sort of movement of coming down again. Okay, right. I need to take my own advice, and I need to leave it. But I will, you know, while I'm Waiting, I'm going to watch this for a little bit, say, I need to probably keep an eye on these little bubbles that they don't suddenly collect too much water and run off. And I won't do much else, but say, just be mindful. And this can obviously be dry but the hair dryer. But let it Let it dry a little bit. If you can leave it to dry naturally after you've monitored those bubbles, that's the best. But if you want to get on a little bit, then you can dry it once. Things have almost gone, if that makes sense. Okay, Happy watching. 5. Head: Okay, so once it's all thoroughly dry, we can lay this flat again. So how yours look. Are you pleased with what you've got? I'm going, what else have I got under here. I still got that heart termina. I do hope so, because Yeah, it's every single one I've done of these links, and I've done quite a few practice pieces. Every single one turns out slightly differently. Just depends how much water you've added. There's a lot of randomness in there, just how the paper flows, sorry, how the paint flows, how your water flows, and just how you're feeling on the day sometimes. So I'm going to show you just a couple of more favorite practice pieces. That's a lot dark. I've used a little bit more of the gray there. Last one. Again, it's just turned out differently. I've let that run just a little bit further down. As seen. You see how different they are. Bear in mind, these are practice pieces, so some parts have never actually been completely finished. But I will pop these on the projects and resources pages just for you to refer back to. You can again see how different each piece is. Okay. Right. Let's pop those away for a minute. Favor on on the stand. So I can sit. Okay, I was going to show you the magic sponge just so we can get rid of that little mark. And this is just a portion of one. They come in little blocks from Amazon. Co old Amazon. Again, I'm sure you can find them other places, but they're called magic sponge. I'll pop up a little link on the projects and resources pages. But what you do is wet them down, wet part down and simply. Po la. Look at that. Such a good thing. And your little mark has completely disappeared, 'cause it's quite hard. If you're working like I generally do with a white background, you're always going to get little splatters. So that it has been a real game changer. I don't often use it to take color out. It's a little bit of a blunt tool, if I'm on it. So it's just just used for taking little marks out and mistakes. Anyway, we are going to be laying this flat again, so working without any tilt, and we're going to be doing this head. So, pick up your big brush, your bigger brush, and we're going to wet down. If I start here, just a little bit further down, you can see on that reference photo, I was going to say for the salt, I will leave it on, but actually it's going to some of it will actually still be on the a little bit, we're going to wet down, but don't worry too much. It doesn't matter if it's there. I'm only leaving the salt on because it can actually still be ale bit damp right underneath the granule, so I tend to leave them on for as long as I can. Okay, as I was saying, I'm going to wet down a little bit further down. If we start if we wet down which where you can obviously see where we haven't painted, it just becomes a little bit of a line. It doesn't look very soft then it looks they disjointed. If we wet down a bit beyond that line. But Then we can keep it nice and soft. Go to come up to hear, and I'm going to leave. Again, the tiniest I I've done that tiny little line, so just so it's not joined up here. All right. And then we're not going to do the back ear. So miss that out. Go along top of the forehead. Again, we're missing the eye out so go again, nice and carefully round the eye. Just be really careful because all the lines are really important. If you go outside, you will change the whole sort of character and shape of them, so it's really worth taking your time wetting stuff down. And we're only going to go to the mouth. We're not doing the chin. We will feel that in a little bit later on. But just because obviously the chin is very white, and we want to try and preserve that as much as possible. Swing it around. I know there's a little white ***** underneath the chin. Underneath the chin. This little area here, you can see that's white, but we're just not going to apply the paint there. But here there's lots of ways you can break this down, but that seemed to be the best way for me. And again, we're going to miss out that little white bit of coat that sits. Sort of underneath the chin, that's the back. Okay, so bobble your head up and down. Make sure it's I think it's a nice, workable stage, where it's not sitting in puddles, but it's almost close to it. So it's there's a nice, nice gleam to your paper. If you have it too dry, that paint won't move, and it'll just sort of stick on you. Right, I'm going to pick up with that CP. Let's pick up a CPA. I'm going to start on the ear. You have to start somewhere, so why not the ear. And we're just going to very gently add that lovely sort of dark patch. Go around the ear. Only just kick it around a little bit, but don't go all the way down. Pick up a little bit of gratitum. I clean your brush, take the exs water off on your kitchen roll, paper tel. Depending where you are in the world. And then we're just going to again tap a little blue's a little See, I've done that, haven't I've clean my brush off, and I didn't take the excess moist off, and you can see that's puddling, and I can if I'm not careful, I can add actually too much water. And it's not going to be helpful. Okay. With the pia. Just going to pop. Again, just tapping. Just going to get the inside here. Again, don't be too worried about getting it in the exact same place. A slight turn of the head and all that could have changed. So you're just trying to get a sense. And again, just something that looks nice, something that looks interesting. Yeah, that looks all right. Let's put the spa down. And I'm going to pick up. I've got the goth laps i laser, and the gray titanium. We just gain squint eye. We're going to start from the top on the top of the head, so I pick up a little bit of gray, have a little bit of the blue at the same time. Again, nice and light, everything. And just tap and allow it to move. Watch how it moves. If it's too heavy, then you can always take a little bit out. If it's gone a little heavy. But just to allow it, I would say, let things run. Don't go all the way down. Let's do a little bit on those. See how that runs. Could pop a little bit of the gray titanium on top. Again, being really mindful to stay within those lines. Okay. Let's have a little bit of the gray and a little bit of the go fit. And again, I'm going to tap underneath that eye there. There is some lovely white markings, but we're not going to worry. We can take those out, so I'm not worrying about those too much at the moment. They'll be done on the finishing off bits. Again, take your brush away, so we think have a little bit of go fight down here. I have to bear in mind there's that white area sheets. Suck a little bit. My paper should be nice and stretched, but it definitely got a little bit of a kink in the middle here, it's puddling a bit on me. Okay, a bit of gray here and again, just tap, a little bit of gray, little bit of the blue. Look at that reference photo and just tap. Put your brush away. It's nice to have light. So it's better to add less paint in my humble opinion, than it is to add too much paint and lose that light. Even if the reference photo shows more color as gained with that if you look back at some of those show you quickly. My practice pieces. Se there's quite a lot of light there. Camera can pick that up. So don't worry. If you've got a nice lump of light, and you think that looks really nice, leave it. Don't fill it all in. Well, I might have it. Let's have a tiny little bit of gray. I haven't really used this great this piece. Have just a tiny bit. P a little bit of darker. Right underneath that eye there. Just a tiny bit. Let me to. Now this is beginning to dry on me. Again, be mindful that all our pieces are going to dry at different time, so I can only sometimes do my piece. So if this is sitting in puddles for you, just hang fire. So you're going to put that in there. What plenty of strength, I want it quite damp to allow that to move. I have a bit of fight just in the middle of the warm up a little bit. We'll be going a little bit too high up. Suck a little bit of away again, having a look. Take my brush away. I'm going to come over here for a minute and just add a little bit of strength up here. Just mainly because for me, this is taking a bit of a puddle, so I'm going to come over here and work over here. Just add a little bit of color and strength where I think I need it after I've just picked up the CPA. Add a little bit under here. I can add another a little bit more depth. A little bit more color. I can even wet it down a little bit further down. I I think you wanted a little bit more strength then it didn't happen for you, so let's put a little bit show you what I mean. So I can add a little bit more umph there in that corner but bring it down and say, if your stripes or disappeared. In theory, you could wet the whole lot down again. I did that in some of the practice pieces. It got a little muddled, and I was trying to stay as true as I could to the exhibition piece, where it was only one layer. I did two layers overhead, but definitely on the body, it was only one layer. So I was trying to stay as true as I could do it from what I could recall. So I didn't want to do another sort of layer over the entire body. But here, it just helps to stay soften that line. Now, we need the back of the ear needs a little bit of strength. Where we've left that little white little dry line, we can probably fill that up. Now, fill it in. I say not up. Again, just touch that color in, allow things to happen. Try not to control it too much. Take your brush away, see what you think. Say if it goes git astray, or obviously astray, bits you don't want, you can just just very gently, again, take the excess moisture off, I can just very gently suck it up. You have to. I'm just trying to suck up some of my puddle. Right. We need to get a couple of those little stripes in as well before that again completely dry. So I'll use a little bit of the gray, darker gray the Joseph and a little bit of the CPA, and there's a nice one that comes off the eye. Just tap it in. And if you feel it's that bigger brush feels a bit chunky, you can pick up the little brush. Sometimes it feels a little bit more. You feel have a bit more control. Another one that runs off here. So I'm going to screen to my photo. One that runs here. Try not to get too line, try not to sort of fill them all in, just do little parts of it and leave the rest of the imagination to make up. But they can look a little stark, if you I personally, just what I like to see. But, I don't like them looking too liy and too complete. Off. I just putting a little bit more color up here. That's still damp but it's just about workable steel, so I just want to So once you start that again, Jay. When your paper is very wet, your color will move lots. And as it begins to dry, the same amount of paint won't move as much, if that makes sense. So this is where you sort of gain your control. So You can kind of work around your painting, adding little bits color as you go. As it begins to dry, you can add a little bit more. Little more details, something a little bit. A little more strength thing. Hopefully, you can see that isn't really moving, was that if I'd put that down when it was really wet, it would have blended a lot more. So there is always a part to say once it starts to go off and it, little bits begin to completely dry and little bit there's a difficulty. It's just trial and error. You will get the hang of it. But yeah. It's just sometimes just time spent painting, you become familiar. Yeah. Oh no, I can't do that now because that is X is going to happen is just time spent playing with your paint, which isn't a bad thing. Take your brush away, see what you think. I need to again, this is be a judge of your own piece. This little part for me is drying quite quickly, so I want to just wet underneath that chin while it's still a little bit damp, and that just gently blend. And I can put's got my little brush. Again, I feel I have a little bit more control. A little bit more. It's quite dark there, isn't it? I had a little bit more. Strip there. And the tiniest bit of You've got the color on the brush? Is it a tiny little bit of the Blue. A diddy bit. Okay. I think this is doing? Doing okay. I know what I haven't done, which I should have done. Let's do these flicks on the tops of the ears. So again, or should we do these? I'll tell you what we're doing on the finishing off bits because yours may have dried and mines almost dried. So I think some of the pieces I did the flicks as I worked around that ear. It doesn't matter. You can do that in the finishing off bits. Tidy that up where I put my brush down. Okay. That's looking right. I don't think I want to do too much more actually to it. Again, there's always that sort of stage where you need to leave it. You can call a fiddle fiddle fiddle, and then you're like, No, can't do any more fiddling. It's going to ruin it. And I'm at that stage again. And I'm going to put these down, clutching these. Now, again, it's just worth. Just hang it on. We'll finish up, but It's worth just standing here for a minute or sitting when just making sure you don't get left with a sort of a strong line where as it begins to dry. Don't really want to watch me just watching my painting, but just to say, just keep an eye on it, and you can use your finger. That often quite a nice way it squeeges the edge, moves the paint around, but doesn't sort of soak it up better. What I would personally want to avoid is the sort of the jagged line where we've wet things down. But anyway, as I say, leave this again to dry naturally, for as long as you can. Once it begins, I don't know if you can see that. That's almost dry. I would put a air dry over that, but there's parts that are still really wet. So Ts, be patient. 6. Eye: Okay, then, let's get this links to life. We're obviously at this rather ugly middle stage, where things just look, you've obviously hopefully got some nice sort of patterns and flows, but there's no detail at the moment. So I think we should do the eye, and it will start to bring your painting to life. Sometimes you need to get something sort of sharp and some sort of detail in just to give you a bit of a boost because it's hard to drop your head and get a bit demoralized at this stage because it all looks a little bit mucky. Anyway, I picked up my little brush. Yellow ocher, and we're very simple. We're going to wet down that eye pupil. So, pup, sorry the entire eye, the pupil, the eye, so the eye ball, not the black marking, so we're puts on in a minute, so you're just working on the easy if I put the color in then you love to see. You're just working on this, and we're just dropping color, not doing anything else. You could in theory have painted this in. It doesn't necessarily need you to wet the paper first. I suppose it's just habit with me. Okay. And that is simple as. And We just need to allow that to completely dry. Now again, you can pop a air dry over to speed the process along 'cause it doesn't have to do anything fancy. I just needs to dry. So yeah. Pop a hair dry over that if you want to get on. Okay, so once it's thoroughly dry, we will do the next layer. Layering of eyes just gives us more depth, and because the eye is so important particularly on loose pieces because we need to have that sort of crisp detail. We're always as a human, I guess, drawn to eyes as well. So really take your time. Don't rush this stage, I would say. We're just going to wet that down. And if you've popped the hair dryer over it like I have, be aware that your paper is quite warm, so it will dry a little bit quicker. All right, I'm going to pick up the laps y lazari and a little bit of the CPA, which is a p. I'm going to start with the laps i zero. Now, they always have a shadow. It's always nice to get a shadow. And I slightly pause because some camera angles won't show a shadow. But I love to put a shadow underneath the top of the eyelid. I just gives a really nice feeling of depth. Pop a little bit of CPA. Say if you have stood, then it's quite a nice time to sort sit down and say, just take the weight off your feet and have a H a nice gentle. Just yes, feel very calm. Just be very gentle, very mindful. I don it's a corny word, but it really really is right. It's just trying re look at that reference photo, get that picture up nice and close. So you can see the shape of the eye. It's a little bit confusing because obviously, she he has got a very strong sort of eye makeup round there, so it's a little hard to see. And just watch it. Yeah, sometimes you need to push it back up. Y color. Just be be gentle. And you can always add if if your ochre has lost a little bit of strength and always pop a little bit of ochre in there. And again, once you're happy. We'll say, we haven't put the pupil in, we're just putting sort of the groundwork in, I suppose, and building up that sort of depth. Then I'll say, Once you were sort of happy with what you got? Put put your paint down and allow it to dry. I would I would put a hair dry of it right at the very end. Again, what you don't want to do is sort of disturb how that paint is sort of laying. So just watch it and make sure it doesn't come down to the bottom too much. You just need to say just a little tinker. And yeah, just be mindful and watch it. Okay. 7. Eye Makeup: Once that little layer is thoroughly dry, we're going to put that makeup on because then we can reshape the eyes. It's quite a useful thing to do. If your eyes got a little mi shape in any form, then we can close it down a little bit if it's got a bit big, or it's harder to make it larger, but, let me do it, and it'll be easier if I start start and again explain. So I've picked up the CPA and say, I've got my reference photo in front of me, it's on an iPad, so I've really pulled it up, so it's nice and large, and we're going to start at the very top. Now, the eye I'd have said the dark eye makeup is actually almost going into the eye the way I've sketched it out, but have a look, see how big your eye looks. This is what I'm saying you can sculpt your piece. Need to come in a little bit here at the top. You can see the eyeballs obviously round. It's a bit thick. So I'm just painting. There's nothing wet at the moment. It's just being a painting. Coming round, and it comes off. We can soften it. It's going to look a little harsh at the moment. We can soften it all down in a minute. Don't worry. Went a little bit. A little too far down. Correct to that. That's better. And it swings around, doesn't it? Squint your eyes. I always seems such a coy thing to say squint your eyes, but it always gives you a nice. I gives you a nice overview of thing. It gives you Yes, that looks nice. Say, take your brush away. Have a look, see what you think. And it close mine in a little bit. Yes. Squinting eye. It takes a detail away, doesn't it? So you can just see the main shape that you're after rather than getting bogged down with the detail. A little bit further out. Take brush away, see what you think comes out here a little bit, doesn't it? Okay. And what I found was quite nice, which I did in a couple of pieces. To pick up a slightly large brush. I go to go it up again. Fan it out. Make sure you fan it out away from your painting because you can often get a bobble of water and then it drips onto your painting. So yeah, it's a damp brush that's fanned out. Very gently, you can just pull up some of that paint really gently, though. You only want a tiny bit Well, you can end up with a rather disney like character if you're not careful. So it's just a little bit, just to take some of that hardness away. I liked it here in the front. We've got some nice eye lashes. Take your brush away. That's enough for me. I don't want to get put too much in. Pick up my little brush again. Now I can just soften this again. We will be taking little bits of color out here later on a later stage, the finishing off bits, but I just want to make sure that's nice and soft. I picked up CP. P in random places. Just want a tiny little bit up the top here. Just to make sure that eyeballs kind of round. It would probably be squared off at the top here. Gently bring it around. Not going to go all the way round. You can end up outlining it too much. It just looks a little bit odd then, I think. I quite like how that's looking. I'm just going to soften that damp brush, touching the edge of that spa. We've got some tinkery little bits to do in the finishing off bits around the eye. But It's just to get something that's starting to look like a painting. So say, it just helps with your general morale. I think I'm there. I can carry on fiddling and not help at all. Right. The scary little bit is now putting the pupil in. So again, with your CPA and your little brush, have a good look at that reference photo and start in the middle where you think that pupil is. Little blop of paint, and then just gently work out. Lift your brush away, have a look at that reference photo. Lift you brush away. Let's call it little. So I'm just dabbing, really. Still looks sod. This is where you will need to do a little bit of tinkering on your own, and see how it looks, and say, pop it down. Oh. Sorry, drop of water running down my paint brush, that wouldn't have been good. Yeah that's looking okay. Desperately trying not to use my old excuse of working a little way away from the camera, which is the case. So I'm I can't. It's a little harder for me to see because I'm not as close as I'd like to be, so I'm slightly stabbing in the dark at times. I'm just taking a little bit of color out at the bottom of that eye. So I'm just wiping some of that ochre away. Lifting my brush, see what I think, think I need a tiny bit out of here. But as say, be a guy, look at your own piece. Eye is always a case of light. I've got it. I've lost it. I've got it. It's just being It's just being really quiet and mindful. I'm not panicking. And if it gets a little muddy and you get a little bit. Oh my goodness, I can't see what I'm doing. It's all getting a bit pear shaped and out of control. Step away for 5 minutes. Even of just a couple of minutes. You can always re wet an eye down. So say if that had all gone a little pear shaped. If I'm not ruining this, you can wet the eye again. And then you can sort of rework it if need be. Add a little bit more color if you feel you needed a bit more Ochre a little bit more of the blue. Got a loss of ochre sitting on the end of that brush. But try not to add too much water. You don't want to keep working in a big puddle because that can be a bit hard to work with. So just keep lifting your brush away and looking at that reference photo. And suddenly I will suddenly happen, you'll look at and go, that's it. That's definitely time to put your brush down. And I think I'm about there. I'm pretty pleased with that. I will before we put that little catch light in, it needs to dry, and I will just get a little closer off camera once I stop the camera and have a little look. So if it looks a bit different when I come back, it's nothing I haven't told you about. It's just I've been able to get a little bit closer to it. So yeah, have a little tinker. Let it dry and we'll pop that catch light in, and then we're almost there with that eye. 8. Eye Catchlight: Okay, so once it's completely dry, and you're happy, then let's add that I say the all important catchlight that makes all the difference. So a little bit of white guash. Give it a good old mix. You've got a nice, creamy consistency. And although the reference photo shows the catch light being a little higher, I always like to do. Let me bring back my trusty example. I like to do them somewhere sort of here, right at the where you would imagine them looking. So I normally go top and a little bit to the front. So let's see if we can do the same. Okay, I'm going to go somewhere just about here. That makes all the difference, doesn't it? Really does as they say, bring them to life. So yeah, I think I'm pleased, had a little tinker while ourselves off camera, and I think we've got it right. We need to do other bits and pieces as well. So obviously, we've got a back ear to do and the nose, but they will obviously help bring the whole painting together. So next, next lesson, we'll do the ear back of the ear and get on with that nose as well. 9. Back Ear and Nose: R. Let's do the back of the ear. Let's work methodically from top to bottom rather than doing the nose and then putting my hand on put my hand on the nose and smearing it around while I do the ear. Right. Okay, so back of the ear. Bigger brush. We're going to wet that down. We're only going to do the ear, not the hair, so be careful you don't wet down that part, and we're going to pick up. I'm go pick up for spa and the gray. I'm going to put the color right up against that edge. A little bit more strength, just tapping and again, allowing that to find its way across the ear. Little underneath. Pick up my smaller brush. I get a a little more control there. Actually, while I'm thinking of it, I'm going to do this flick on the ear. If I get that shape right as well it comes out ale bit here, doesn't it, maybe not quite so much as that. Take. Take your brush away. See where you think. Right. Let's just be cautious. If it is a little bit puddly, just hang on a little minute because if it's very wet, it's quite easy to do the flicks and get a little carried away because there's a lot of water. So you want it a nice just going off. Is taken my hand away. I reckon I'm about there. Let's hang on to that Joseph. Darker gray. And again, start a little way down, try not to start right on the tip because again, it's quite easy to then do some more exaggerated flicks. That's in bold. I think that's probably enough, isn't it? Take your brush away. See what you think. Quite like that. I think that s okay. That right to the that front here. Make sure you call it all in. Okay. Again, once that's dried a little bit, we're going to flick out some of that hair. We need to dry a little bit. F just about there. Again, very gently, don't do too. I'm going to go right on the edge, I don't want to pull too much color if I just go right to starting right at the very tip or the edges, just drag a little bit of color out. Keep your eye that reference photos, see where that hair goes. It comes out a little bit more here, doesn't it? Pull a little bit too much away, so I just feel that back in again. Quitch my finger. Let's soften that little bit. Yeah, I think that looks. Okay. I name CP. In Lovely. Okay. O with a little nose. So really easy. We're just gain a bit like the eye. We're just going to let's just paint it in. We're just going to paint a little bit of go. Just paint that nose in. Now think fancy. Nice and easy. Make sure you get that shape right. Again, keep eye that reference photo and make sure it's the right shape. Yeah, that looks good. And then with your CPA. Make sure here, it's probably. If you've painted it on, it shouldn't be too wet. That's the joy of just painting. Is going to put. You can again draw up If you've got a i pad, you got your reference photo on a device. Scroll in and have a good look at that nose. Proper water. A We're going to come in with that little nostril comes up, doesn't it? Just do cover little sort of spots. So they don't don't have to get it exactly the same. The nostril again. So pick up some of that, Joseph. Put the brush away. As I say, see what you think. A be up here. As we work our way through these paintings, we all start to differ a little bit and what you need to play with. Maybe not necessarily what I need to play with. In regards to the Yeah, that looks all right, actually. I say we need to take color out on that sort of finishing off bits. It looks a little bit stark at the moment, but don't worry too much because we will need to do a little bit of fiddling. Okay, right. We need to allow those little bits to dry, and then we can do the last little tinkering bits rely. We're almost done. Yeah. 10. Finishing Off: Okay. Let's finish this beautiful links off. So to start with, just make sure everything is completely dry. I'm going to bruh off that's thought from earlier. I'm also going to brush off the masking fluid. So just gently rub it out if you've got it. And also do the whiskers. I love rubbing those out. I terribly satisfying, isn't it? Here. M. Fabulous. Let's see what we have now. Look at that. Okay. And next, I'm going to so some of those pencil marks out as well. So that's always a nice thing to do. Hopefully, you've done yours light enough. Mine's gonna be ale hea, I think. Sole heavier handy so you can see what I was doing. Gonna leave that tiny one up there just to remind me to do that. I don't think we're gonna forget. Okay. Fabulous. I think that's the majority of them out. So I'm going to try and be methodical, and let's actually start with doing that tuft at the very top that we didn't do with the ears when we did the ears. So I'm going to use my little brush. I go to pick up the Joseph gray or the darker gray. A little bit of work. And we're just going to see drip right from the base, and then up at sweeps up. Look at that reference photo, see the angle they're going at. If you're unsure, pencil them in. There's no harm in doing that, if you're a little unsure. I go to I'm going to make that back one a little more. Yes, it's a bit better. A a little clumpy. Lovely. I'm going to leave it at that for the time being. I it's easy to do too much. Now, I'm going to go carefully round and just take some color out. I think is a next um job for us. I do need to remember to do this little patch here. I mean, I'm just going to pencil that back in actually I've rubbed that out. See what I'm going to do. I'm gonna forget. So I'm gonna again, start at the very top, and I'm going to just take there's a lovely line coming off here. So I've just wet my brush, flattened it down. I got a nice chidled, mark. Look at that reference pot define where it's at. Where it is. Gently take some of that color out. Again you use the kitchen roll. There's a nice Just where the ear does that little crease. I can take a little bit. I don't want to do it all. If you use your finger to squid it, sometimes it doesn't take as much paint out, it's little softer. I I get the right angle at this. I comes down a bit. Yeah, that's nice. Again, there's another one coming here. We'll put a little bit of darker paint in here, but let's just take that little bit of color out to start with. And the joy with some of these Daniel Smith paints is they lift out ever so easily. And because we've only done we saw it one layer, that helps as well, 'cause we haven't got lots of paint to have to go through. Also, where I've been a little raggedy, I'm just of sneaking up the top of the head. I can say, a lot of these finishing off bits won't all necessarily apply to you because you may have may not have the same issues as me. So bear that in mind. Don't just blindly follow me. If you like what you've got at a particular say, if I take the color out of here and you feel like you've got enough light there, then don't follow me. Take a little light out the back of that ear. It's going to work all the way around. Now, there's a nice, a little patch. Probably the bully eyebrow is comes down. Again, a really nice little. We will put. There's going to be a little bit of detail. We're going to actually paint in, but I want to take the color out first, so let's get rid of that color. A against the eye. B careful Be careful you don't go too much into this lovely makeup. You don't want to. You probably got a nice shape there. Equally, if it isn't quite the right shape, you can sculpt some of this away if you want to at this stage. I'm happy with M and how Mine looks at, so I'm not going to A that out ale bit of paper towel. Looking nice. That's I've got a nice bit of light there. I don't think I want to take too much more off the top. The nose looks nice. I just take just a fraction. Just damp to my brush. I'm just gonna let it flat. So it's very easy to lift too much color out. I'm just going to dad that with my finger. Probably just enough, a little bit of relief. Again, the nose could do with just a tiny, little bit of light take it out at that top. All the little tiny things that make all the difference. Yeah, that's nice. And again, around the nose. There's a nice nice little of light there as well. And again, you could sort of sculpt if the nose got a little mit messy. Might actually okay, but if it has got a little chunky or misshaped, you can sort of shape this at that stage as well. We will put those whisker marks in in a minute, so I'm not going to alter that too much. All right. The chi needs a little bit of work there, but I'm going to try to try and stay on target and just go around, taking color out at the moment. Otherwise, I'll get myself sidetracked. Take a little bit at the top here if you want. Again, bear in mind. Look at your own piece. Be a judge. Working my way around. I need to put some little line in here. If you squint your eye, there's a you can see that rough where we added. That's second layer down on the neck. I'm just going to lift a little bit of the tines of line. Bit. Just a hint. I'm sure that's actually come out very well. I haven't got a lot of paint here actually to take color out of. But hopefully you can see what I mean. If you look at that reference photos a nice little line of white there. Don't take it all out. Just take a little bit out, just for the eye to see. I'm going to take a tiny bit out here. I always like taking a little bit out of sort of the side of the body or a little bit of the body, just to break that line up. I like the flicks here, so I don't want to really take too much color there. I just take ale bit up here. Squeeze that one. I don't want to take too much out. Yeah. I think that's all right, actually. Stepping away, having a look, Ithing else that I'd like to take out. By. Again, you can take if you've lost some of this white ruff. And if you've had a look at that video, you'll see this particular link, maybe it's a younger lynx or a female, but they do have. This is a most amazing sort of ruffed around their neck. And I guess this is ever say like a youngster or a female. Maybe it's not as pronounced, but trying to if I can get a little bit of flick of hair. Again, just a break. Break that up and give it a little bit of interest. Just enough. Yep. That's enough. Okay, and again, a really nice chunk underneath the eye. Should have done that while I was doing that bit, shouldn't I? I'm not very good at being methodical. I say, we will do some little bit of painting. I just want to take that out there at the moment. Yeah, that's looking nice. Okay, I think, for me, that's enough light. You can, some of the other practice pieces I took little bits out here, but I like how the salt has worked here. I don't really want to muddle that too much. So, I will think that's enough. Let's put that down, and let's work our way round again. Oh, I tell you what I will what's gonna do again? Yours might be absolutely fine. This got a little heavy. Probably started painting this Earhair, a little bit too soon, too much has come out. That. You know, when we wet that down and pulled out, I probably probably started a bit too soon. But I can soften it down like that. That's fine. Alright, let's get rid of that. Well, damp piece of paper towel. Just gonna get rid of a fresher piece. Okay. There, I don't need that pencil. So, the little bit of painting we're going to do. Pick up. West I'm going to use my little brush as well. So I've got the great titanium. I'm going to use a little bit of goth, and we're just going to paint a little bit in. Now round round the eye here. J to kind of really give that marking round the eye a bit of definition. So just literally painting. A bizarre concept for me. Okay. And then I will soften just that one edge, that back switch brushes. It's a little bit too small. You can see it comes up into a V there, doesn't it? That's roughly. Blend that down. See how that's given a little bit of definition, a little sharp edge. Again, I'm going to do exactly the same underneath. Check in there's nothing wet there. Se. That's just a really nice little thing to put in. I like that that bit of sharpness, a bit of contrast between all that sort of wonderful softness we've managed to achieve. Yeah, I think that's enough. Right. Let's just put that down. I need to just define that chin a little bit and also that little white area. So I'm just going to do the chin to start with. Sort of wet down that chin area. Be careful, you can quickly make this a bit cartoony. Just that that line is quite important. Obviously, too much. You've got a big grin. If it comes down, he's going to look a bit cross or upset, so it's those little lines mouth lines really do give give the character. So be aware of that. I just getting to sweep that round. It comes round back, doesn't it? But the tiniest of tiniest a little bit of gray there. To say that these little finishing off bits are very small, minute little things that they just just pull everything together. Say lift your brush away, see what you think. Now I'm going to really need this to dry before I tackle that, or is it all going to blend a little bit too much? Now, the stripe issue, I'm happy with my stripe. I don't really want to put any more in. But you can. So let me try and demonstrate. Let's pick up. That's how she put a little bit softer, so we've got a great tenia and the goth. So I'm happy with mine. I wouldn't necessarily add them at this, for me because I feel I have enough, but I kind of want to be able to show you how you would add a few more if you need to. Okay. I'll pick up the Joseph, get a little bit more strength. Just a tap. And then soften some of those edges down. Just little tinkers. Tie it a little bit, soften it, squeeze it with your finger, take your brush away, see we again. I see seem to be saying that a lot. See you think. But, yeah, say, be a judge of your own piece. What a nice one there, isn't there? We can a soft one there. Then you just pulling it out. Be careful. I can see. I'm starting to get a line. If I look away, there's a line going down here at the moment, so let's just cut across that line. Obviously, we've made quite a big effort to try it and let that run down the chest. So I don't want to lose that sort of sense of movement. And they do have, I hope you've managed to watch that little video. They are so they're so agile, aren't they? They're beautiful and their movements so lovely. So all this flow that we've managed to achieve just gives that sort of impression of those live creatures. They are quite hypnotic to watch. Another one there, say, it's tiny. Nothing I've put the minutest bit of paint on my brush. And again, if I lift it away, I've just enough. Okay, I think I'm gonna leave it at that. But that's the general which is you're just putting tiny bits down, squidging with your finger, softening it, softening it with a brush. Let's see, a big splge there. Right. There is a nice stripe that runs here. I think I liked that. On some of my practice pieces. We're going to try and pop that in, so I've wet the line on the leg that this is a chest running down, and I've just wet underneath that line. Again, I'm going to use. W, I'm going to put that down. I'm too strong. I'm going to stick with the lighter gray and a little bit of the goth. Okay, I'm just going to run that along that straight edge. Obviously, it's not going to run into the chest because we haven't got the chest wet. So Runs out, doesn't it? She'd put a tiny bit of that Joseph gray there. Clean my bush. She sweep some of this down. What I don't want to do is to sort of interrupt any of this. These marks are very really those really spontaneous sort of marks, so I'm not careful, I can sort of ruin that. I have to try and follow roughly where I went down before and then just watch that. A bit of a squidg. But if you take your brush away, that's just defined that back leg. Yeah, I think it's coming along nicely. This was quite a important stripe. Again, you could add a little bit more strength there. Similar to that. You run. Let's do that. Let's demonstrate it. It's not helpful me telling you, and not showing you. So again, I've wet that line down there. Let's have a little bit of spa. Again, and just pop a little bit of a little bit of strength. Again, I don't want too much. I want to keep all wonderfully soft and sort of flowing a movement. O. Let's quit it out. Yeah, I think it's definitely enough. I say I had quite a nice stripe already. Okay. Again, you can strengthen a little bit of the back. I like what I've got there. I don't really want to interrupt that too much. I've got a nice line down there. Be careful. If you do all these lines, it becomes a segmented. So be cautious of that. It's going to soften that a bit. It's getting a little for me because I didn't necessarily need that. Okey doke. All right, that should have dried now. If it's not, then just just hold on a minute. But for me, this is this little bit of white coat underneath the chin. I'm just going to It wet that down. Make sure this is a nice little sweep here, so I've got a little raggedy. It's got a little bit straight. So I'm just going to take a little bit of color out. So I'll just try to get that nice curve. Let's say it's all about it just gives that impression of that sort of say that liveness. Okay, I got to pop, a tiny little bit of gray. We're using my little brush from make sure I don't put too much color in. 'cause obviously that's white, and we're working on a white piece of paper as well, so we don't want to add too much. Let's down. We get any blue there, did I? Be brush. No to I don't want to add too much color. Again, you. There'll be more color underneath the chin. There we'll be further down. So just I've added to too much water now. Luck some of that up. Just want to add tiny bit of blue there. Just want that line to be seen. Once I've have that pencil mark out, there's nothing for the eye to find. So that's enough. I think. Now, I'm just having a little look at my notes of else, I have missed out the whiskers. I'm going to bring my pencil back in again. Now, obviously, the whiskers are white, and we've got a white background. So I'm going to pencil these in. You can, if you're feeling particularly brave, you can use your little brush and pop a little bit of paint on. I'm going to make my life a bit easier. I'm gonna use a pencil. Again, I can do this, and if they don't look right right, I can just rub them out. But try and follow the line, so that you can obviously the line here, so we're gonna follow that. Follow that one. Follow that one. Go some of them a little lighter. Make some of those a little heavier. Beauty of a pencil. I'm going to rub some of those out. Again, they don't have to all join up. Again. Be careful of that little wet patch there, but there's some lovely wiskers coming up here, isn't there as well? I get the right swing. I get my angle right so it's getting the angle of your wrist right as well. Is swing round here, don't they? Do you see either turning your paper or turning your wrist. It might be easier to turn your paper to want to move by board. Yeah. That's enough. The other thing we haven't done is some of those whisker marks. We do that pencil for a minute. Let's pick up. Let's have a little bit of Joseph. Just a tiny bit. I'm just going to put a little bit of color along the bristle line. And again, make sure you get the right angle. They are almost horizontal, actually. They just tap. They haven't got much paint there at all. Might be enough. I'm always a little bit cautious with these. Again, that's me, so to sometimes paint what you like, if you want to see that a little more exaggerated, Obviously put a little bit more paintment. Okey doke. At this is coming on quite well. I don't Having a look, stepping away. I think I'm nearly there, actually. Again, it's as I always say, it's worth stepping away. If you've continuously painted this for the whole you know, if you haven't If you haven't stopped at all, and you've just painted the whole link without any break. It's quite a long class, and you've probably been looking at it for quite a long time, so it's worth stepping away, looking at it. But with a fresh pair of eyes, I'm sounding like I'm repeating myself so much. But it is really important. Or take a photo with your phone and look at your phone photo. That can offer you be sometimes be a giveaway of a little bit you want to alter. But I will always say, just leave it. So I'm going to do exactly that. Now, for any reason, if I come back to this the next day and see something I, you know, really needed altering or changing, I will do another little lesson. But, um, I think I'm pretty pleased aly. I think she's come together quite well. So, I say, I hope you enjoyed this class, and please I always say this again, but please do share your pieces on the projects and resources pages. It is fantastic to see all these masterpieces. They really are brilliant pieces that come in. And if you're stuck or you're unsure about something, You can contact me, where you can leave a little message in the discussions pages, and yeah, I try I endeavor to get back to people within a couple of days, so, yeah, don't hesitate if you're stuck on something. Other than that, I hope you enjoyed painting this lovely link and or, if you haven't managed to look at that little video, well worth having having it's only 8 minutes long, I think, but it's lovely. Yes, it's very heartwarming. Anyway, thank you for joining me. 11. Final Thoughts: I hope you enjoyed this class. And isn't it heartwarming, knowing that we can bring species back from the brink of extinction and put them off the endangered list? I hope you found painting the body a useful technique. I found it was a great way to create movement and light, but you do have to work quite briskly. How was the eye? Remember to take your time and don't rush at this stage. The smallest of adjustments can change things dramatically. As I always say, it's worth stepping away and coming back and looking at your painting with a fresh pair of eyes and tweak, if necessary. So we look forward to seeing you in the next class. Oh.