DIYMakersClub: Simple DIY Projects Anyone Can Create

1. INTRODUCTION: Hi, I'm Anna, and I'm passionate about DIY projects and creative home decor. I love improving rooms with simple DIYs or taking every day or even pieces that have been forgotten and turning them into something beautiful and unique. For me, DIY isn't about big renovations. It's about the small projects that add personality and make a space feel truly yours. The best part is you don't need any experience to get started, a bit of creativity and a desire to try something new. In my classes, I'll share a variety of DIY projects that are easy to follow and actually do a ball, whether you are into crafting, flipping pieces or adding a little handmade detail to your home. My goal is to inspire you to see potential in what you maybe already have at home, try new ideas, or create things you are proud of. So if you love DIY, creativity, and make something with your own hands, you are definitely in the right place, and I'm so excited to have you here. Let's get started. 2. DIY: Fabric Covered Book: Hi, guys. So whenever I'm not busy working and basically want to give my mind rest from the computer, I like to do do it yourself projects. So I was scrolling through some of my favorite websites and came across these beautiful fabric cover books. They're just perfect for styling on a console or coffee table. But let's be honest, price tag can be a bit much. So on design really stood out to me, it's a fabric book with four bold stripes on the side. And immediately, it reminded me, actually, of a book. My mom had tossed out. Luckily, I rescued it from the trash before it was gone for good. It was totally falling apart, but made it absolutely perfect for this project. So the book I used measures 207 by 147 millimeters. Since I wanted to create a little frame on the cover for print, I started outlining a 50 millimeter border. Of course, depending on your book size and design preference, this can be different. To help visualize the final result, I cut out a piece of paper and placed it on top of the book, which I definitely recommend doing. You will see I ended up shortening the rectangle after testing. Then I carefully used a knife to cut out the shape. If you're new to using those tools, please be cautious were working gloves if needed and always cut slowly and steadily. Once the shape was outlined, I began tearing off the paper bit by bit. This step may take a few passes to reach the right depth. Honestly, if you're using a thicker book cover, that's even better. You will see later in the video, if I could go back, I would have left a few more layers intact or glued a thicker piece to the back to support the cut out. I probably should have stopped sooner, but I kept going until I created a full hole. Well, it's still okay. If you want to avoid it, though, also damaging, the inner pages definitely place something hard underneath while cutting. So my book was already bound for the bin, so it wasn't too worried. But keep that in mind if you're working with a book in a better condition. To back the cut out, I added a layer of paper. If you're doing this too, use a sturdy cardboard or thick paper, unlike the flimsy one I used because once glued and the fabric are added, thinner paper can warp. I just regular paper glued to attach it to the back. Now, let's pick out the fabric. I had two options laying around, one neutral and one with stripes. I decided to go with the striped fabric, and it's time to get started. Since the book was falling apart, I reinforced it a bit with super glue. Then I ironed the fabric without steam plates to get a smooth surface. Next, I laid my book down and left a border of about 50 millimeters around all sides. If your fabric has a pattern, especially stripes, make sure it's aligned properly before you cut. The final fabric size I used was 30 by 46 centimeters. Now, about those four stripes on the book spine, I simply divided the book height by five and marked my glue spots. Once the glue gun was hot, I basically started applying the lines. I actually redid them a couple of times because I wasn't happy with the thickness. Well, yeah, I'm a perfectionist. So take your time here and go slowly and steady. And if you're using a nicer book, maybe you want to try it on an old one first or skip this step. Now for the fun part, wrapping the book with fabric, using what patch, it's very important to apply just a thin layer or the glue will seep through the fabric, which doesn't look great, as you will see in my first attempt later in the video. So I press the fabric onto the glued surface and then use parchment paper and an iron to help it dry faster. Just be cautious near the hot glue stripes. Do not use the iron on top of them like me as it leaves dark marks. And I learned it the hard way. Anyway, you continue gluing down to the front and the back as well. And make sure to smooth out any lint trapped underneath. It can show through the fabric. So here was my first attempt look like when I applied too much mod potch as you can see, it bled through. So again, go light with the glue. Once the book was fully covered, it was time to trim the fabric. You can cut slits at the bottom and make a clean 45 degree cuts at the corners. I kind of eyeball it and you will see it wasn't perfect. So I highly recommend using Euler, a ruler, sorry, for sharp clean edges. I also trimmed the fabric border a bit, but that's optional. You can leave it longer if you prefer. To cover the raw edges inside, I glued down the book's first page. This is optional, but it gives a cleaner look, especially if this is a gift or a decorps. As you will notice, my corner cuts weren't exactly 45 degrees. That's something to improve next time. Also, I didn't leave enough fabric around the bottom edge, so I couldn't tuck it in the spine properly. Another fix I would make in the future. Now it's time to design the cover print. So I jumped into Canva and set up an A four document or whatever paper size your printer uses. Then I added a rectangle that matched the cut out on my book cover. You can create a few designs to see what fits best. If you have a colored printer, awesome. Mine wasn't working, so I had to use an old black and white printer. So you can browse pinteres for inspiration, search for illustration, minimal art, whatever you like. And you can also use AI tools to generate an artwork that suits your style. So as you can see here, I created a few designs. I actually used AI and told the AI to create basically outlines for me, so I can go ahead later and basically start coloring the outlines. But that's up to you, of course. If you have already colored printer, that's perfect. There are endless options for what to add here. You know, you could use a journal clipping, child drawing, seashell from your last vacation. I mean, anything meaningful to you, think of it as a little blank canvas. Honestly, this would make such a thoughtful gift. Just imagine ordering a standard photo book from your last trip, wrapping it in fabric, and adding a sweet little photo drawing on the front. It just adds so much personality and charm and is just perfect for a coffee table or consle table. Alright, guys, I hope you enjoyed this super affordable and meaningful do it yourself project, and I'll see you in the next one. 3. DIY: Vintage Looking Hobnail Pot: But. I recently came across these beautiful hobnail pots, but they can be so expensive, so I want to show you a quick tutorial on how to create your very own vintage looking hobnail pot. To get started, you will need any old pot, preferably one with terra cotta like or mud surface. Here pot is glossy. Simply use a mud spray paint first, so our later layers will stick better. I actually found this old vintage pot at the trash yard, which makes the transformation even more fun. The first step is to draw small circles where you want your hobnail pattern to be. Decided to go with four dots in each row, just around the pot. Next, I used a hot glue gun to create a little raised dot. This takes a bit of practice. Basically, you apply a small amount of glue and then move the gun around in circular motion. This helps prevent those thin glue threads from forming. Try to apply even pressure so your dots turn out consistent. And once you've finished one row, hold the pot still until the glue dries, otherwise, the dots might shift. Then continue all the way around until everything is covered. If you're using a terracotta pot like me, the glue holds really well. If you use mud spray paint, you can slightly sand the surface with some fine sandpaper to give it more grip before applying those dots. Next, I'm mixing acrylic, black and brow spray paint with a bit of white. Then I add a real soda, but baking soda works too. Real soda just gives a finer texture. Add it gradually because too much soda will make the mixture very dry quickly. Now I'm covering the entire pot with this mixture. And once it's dry, you will see the interesting white areas caused by the soda. At this point, you could already leave it as it is. It has a really cool vintage look already, but I want to add more tones inspired by my reference image. So from here on, we are no longer using soda, just acrylic paints. I'm mixing a grayish beige using yellow brown and some watered down white paint to create a light tan color. Using a slightly damp piece of toilet tissue, I genply dab this color onto the pot. Next, you will need two more colors, basically a warm, dark orange and a medium brown. I start with a brown, dabbing it on and leaving some gaps, so the lighter tan that we applied earlier still shines through. Then I take some of the orange and just lightly apply it with my fingers here and there to add a little warmth and a bit of variation. Finish everything off. Just seal it using a mud spray paint. And just like that, this once thrown away pot becomes a beautiful vintage hobnail staatenme piece, perfect for your coffee table or styled on a bookshelf. I hope you feel inspired and are excited to start your very own hop nail pot. 4. SEWING: Pillow Cover with Piping & Zipper: Hein, welcome to this tutorial on how to create a pillow cover using your own fabric, including adding a beautiful piping trim around the edges. We will also add an invisible zipper at the bottom, so let's get started. First, you need to decide on your fabric. This fabric here is quite affordable. The only down side is that it fraze a bit. However, I always recommend using jacquard fabric, but you can use any fabric of your choice. I did overlap my fabric with the right sides facing together, then cut it at the folded edge. I want my final pillow to be 49 centimeters, so I add 1 centimeter seam allowance on each side and cut my fabric to 51 by 51 centimeters. Basically, you want to decide on your final pillow size and simply add the seam allowance on each side. I'm also using special pans that disappear with heat. I highly recommend getting those. They're pretty cool. Now, these are my two final fabric pieces. As mentioned, my fabric frees a lot on each side. So it's best to close off the edges first. I'm using a simple zigzag stitch with the settings shown above, just sew around to complete the rectangles. And this is how it looks. Next, we will attach our piping cord on three of the edges of one rectangle. And this is how we will attach it with the flat side facing the edge. I hope now you can see it better. And these are the settings I used on my sewing machine. One thing to note, please use the same color thread as your piping, as it can be visible afterwards if you use a different color. Also, if you have a zipper foot or a piping foot, which I didn't have at the time since mine broke, please use that. It will make sewing much easier and help you achieve straight lines. And when you reach the edge, I like to make rounded corners. However, you can also make small cuts inside the piping cord at the corners if you prefer sharper edges instead of rounded ones. Take your time at the corners. This is where a zipper or piping foot really helps. As you can see, I slipped slightly to the sides and couldn't get very close to the cord. It's still worked, but just letting you know. And my piping has the same width as my seam allowance, which makes it easy to follow along the edge. If your piping cord is wider or smaller, make sure to adjust your seam allowance accordingly or place your piping cord closer to the inside. Alright, this is how it looks now on all three edges. It's time to attach the zipper. I wish I had a beige zipper at the time of swing, but for the purpose of this video, I use the white one. You want to place your zipper right side facing down on the right side of your fabric. It doesn't matter too much or far apart you choose to place your zipper. Just make sure it has the same distance at the beginning and at the end of the zipper. Also, if you use a zipper that is too small, you may struggle to insert your pillow later. Mine was positioned about 4 centimeters from the edge, and it helps to mark the spot on your zipper, as well. Since my zipper was not complete at the bottom, I simply sewed along that marked line a couple of times. And then you can also cut off a bit on the end if needed. My zipper luckily also has 1 centimeter each end, which matches the seam allowance I gave my pillow, so I can place it almost to the edge while keeping the distance we defined earlier. I used some sewing pins to keep it a place. Next, we will sew along this line. I will start at the end of my zipper and keep it closed while sewing. This helps avoid errors. Make sure to lock the stitch first, then go slowly to ensure you don't accidentally sew too close to the zipper teeth. That happened to me since I didn't have a zipper foot. My sewing line got a bit too close to the zipper teeth, and the zipper would not open smoothly. If this happens to you, simply open the problematic area and re sew the line slightly further away. Once you reach the beginning of the zipper, make sure to open it a bit so you can properly sew all the way to the start. Also make sure to test your zipper afterwards to ensure it works. Next, place the other rectangle, right side facing down onto the finished piece. Position the zipper so the right side is facing inwards between both pieces, and then sew along the other side of the zipper. Hope you can see it better now. If it helps, you can open the zipper slightly, but not too much, just enough so you can sew all the way from the beginning. Make sure to always have enough fabric below the zipper while sewing. Can easily happen that you move too much. Next, place a mark slightly before the zipper ends along the seam allowance all the way to the edge. Make sure to sew along this straight line a couple of times as this area is a stress point. This part is also not so easy to sew, but if you work slowly, it will turn out just fine. This is how it's looking now. Do the same on the other side before we finish our pillowcase. Now, for our last step, place your fabric so the piece with the pipe pink is on top. This way, you can see the previous sewing lines. Now we just need to sew along the exact same line again. And this is how it looks now finished along all three edges. I tried to sew on top of this existing line as fast as I could. Time to turn our cover inside out and see how it looks. Pretty decent for my first pillow cover ever made. I love this little piping detail and the rounded corners, give it a really professional look. I'm happy with the zipper, as well, even though I wish I had a beach one at home. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed this quick tutorial and are excited to start on your very own pillow cover. All best and hope to see you in future tutorials. 5. DIY: Quick Cabinet Flip: In this episode, I'm giving this simple white cabinet a quick and easy DI wife lip, one that completely changes its look with just a few thoughtful details. So I got this cabinet on Amazon for about 40 euros, if I remember, it was very affordable. And once I assemble it, I immediately thought, the doors look a bit too plain and a bit too countryside for my taste, so I decided to give them a little personality and turn them into something that feels more me. I had this beautiful striped fabric at home that I have been waiting to use for a while, and it felt perfect for this project. And to add a bit of detail and structure, I also found these wooden bobbin trims. They have such a charming, handcrafted feel to them. First things first, I measured and cut the fabric to size. I cut two pieces for the doors and made sure they fit perfectly inside the panels. Here are the finished fabric pieces. They all needed now just a quick iron to smoothen them out. Then I grabbed some mod potch and brushed it over the panels, placing the fabric on top. Honestly, I was a little unsure whether the mod potch would actually hold, but it worked beautifully. The fabric adhered really well and was pleasantly surprised at how clean the finish looked. You do need to work fairly quickly, though. Mod patch dries very fast. If I were to do this again, I probably feel the panel lines with a bit of wood filler beforehand. You can see the lines faintly at the end, which doesn't bother me, but if you prefer a super smooth look, it's worth doing before. A little tip. Lightly, go over the fabric with an iron to help it dry faster. Just be careful to not press too hard. If any mod patch seeps through, it can leave darker spots on the fabric. Now for the bob and trim, I wanted to use full rounded shapes, so I trimmed off the bottom part. And just reminder, even small DIY projects like this can get risky when cutting wood. So always wear protective gear, please. Once the trim was prepped, I moved on to painting. If you do half cabinet paint, definitely use that one. I didn't have any on hand, well, not in white. So I used regular acrylic paint. It worked just fine, but I had to apply about three layers for full coverage. And since acrylic paint dries mat and my cabinet doors had a bit of a sheen, I finished the trims with just some glossy acrylic varnish to match the fronts better. Now that everything was ready, fabric attached, trims painted, it was time to glue them on. I used E 6,000 or well, in my case, B 7,000, pretty much the same thing. And I also added a few drops of super glue in between for an instant halt. At first, I only planned to update the doors, but I ended up continuing along the sides of the cabinet, too. And honestly, I'm so glad I did it. It completely transformed the piece. Just a quick reminder how it looked before and now the after. It's amazing how such simple DIY can make such a huge difference. I'm pretty sure you have an old cabinet somewhere that's waiting for a little love. With just some fabric, trim, and glue, you can turn it into something that feels brand new and totally unique. I hope you enjoyed this quick DIY flip, and I will see you on the next one. 6. DIY DECOR: Trash to Treasure Challenge No. 1: Hi and welcome back to another trash to treasure challenge. Today, I'm transforming my mom's old Ikea cabinet using discarded and forgotten pieces, turning literally trash into high end home decor on a budget. If you love elevated DIYs that look expensive but aren't, you are in the right place, so let's get started. The first thing that bothered me about this cabinet was how dark it felt. It almost swallowed everything inside, and I kept thinking, The shape is good, bones are good. It just needs some light. I found myself looking at the Maddox bookcase from McG Co. And yes, it's about 8.5 thousand. It's oak, it's beautiful. It's warm, and while I'm sure it's worth every penny, I kept looking back at this half star and thinking, We can do something with you. So instead of replacing it, I wrapped it just simple brown would look sticky foil for about $8. No big production, just a cut a knife and a little patients. And within 30 minutes, it felt like completely different paste. And just like that, we got that high end look on a budget. With the base of the cabinet done, I took a photo and used Canva to plan on how I wanted to style the interior. I like Canvas magic grab feature because it lets me pull decor elements directly from inspiration images. But you can always just go by this list and incorporate all of those elements on styling shelves or cabinets. One of those key elements are books. Luckily, I live in a place where vintage books are so easy to find. I did find all of these old leather bound books on ebay for just $6. They're real leather, beautifully worn and honestly. They just don't make books like this anymore. Vintage books are always perfect for styling, because they instantly add character adapt. And if you can't find vintage books, no problem. You can always wrap any of your unused books using fabric, just like I did with this one here. Next up, let's talk about vintage mirrors. We have all seen those slightly distressed mirrors. Not for everyone, but if this is something you like to recreate on a budget, I have a very easy trick for you. You can literally use any old glass frame you can find. I got this one from the trash yard. I didn't like the frame, though, but the glass itself was perfect. Just be careful when working with vintage frames. They often have old nails, sharp edges, always wear gloves. For this DIY, all you need is white vinegar, a spray bottle, and spray paint. First, clean the glass, then spray a generous amount of vinegar onto the surface. I'll be honest, I was a bit too careful at first. You can definitely use more vinegar. Don't be afraid because the more you apply, the more distressed demo will look. I focused mostly on the edges and added a bit in the center. Next, you will need a good mirror like spray paint. If you do live in the US, the crylon Mural spray paint is the best option, but I can't get that in my country. So I used regular chrome spray paint. It worked as well. Cover the entire surface, then use a dry tissue to dab off the vinegar while the paint is still wet. You will start seeing small empty bubbles appear. And once everything is dry, simply spray paint the back using black or brown spray paint. After turning it around and placing it into a nicer vintage style frame, the glass suddenly became a vintage mirror. I can definitely see myself using this technique inside a cabinet someday. And if you don't have real glass, acrylic works, too, by the way. I did try it and used more vinegar this time. I also went ahead and used nail polish remover to even distress it further. Also, if you don't want to use black, as mentioned, you can always use brown. It just gives the softer appearance. And this is how the second try turned out. Let me know the commands which version you preferred. Another category I want to talk to you about is metal boxes. I recently saw the Harriet breast boxes and love the idea, but I wanted something with a rougher, more age texture. And these boxes immediately reminded me of the chocolate boxes from Ferrero that my mom keeps gifting to us. So the empty boxes are basically trash, but somehow too sad to throw away, if you know what I mean? So started by gluing a thread along the edges where the box would open. It takes some patience to get the thread to stick since it's plastic, but I made it work. And after a good coat of mat and then gold spray paint, this became kind of terrible. The color still scream plastic. The thread texture was obviously still visible. I should have known. Anyway, I should have used some smooth thread like this one, made from leather. But, you know, instead of giving up, I leaned to adding more texture. So I mixed some wall speckle with black acrylic paint and applied it randomly, but specifically covering the thread. And once dry, I simply smoothen out the areas and left others rough. Then I tried a different gold sprint, which is more chrome based. And, wow, that made a difference. A little distressing with some gold and black, but too much. And suddenly, this plastic chocolate box looked like aged brass. And if you didn't know what it was used to be, I think you would have never guessed. And that's why I love those trash to treasure challenges because we literally take trash and create something that we can reuse. And speaking of boxes, we have all seen those beautiful leather wrap boxes with stitch details. They always remind me of some old travel or explorer boxes. And this one from Ralph Lauren is just insanely expensive. So I decided to make my own. I recently started collecting coins, but the box was very plain, so it's just perfect to make a statement piece out of it. I measured each side, cut the leather piece by piece, so you end up having one piece per surface, and then I use my sewing machine. I first tried this exact stitch. Don't do it. I actually broke two needles during the try, but a simple forward stitch worked absolutely perfect. I removed the hardware, gave the box a brown spray paint base. This is actually nice already, just with the spray paint itself, but we committed to leather. So I started gluing every single piece onto the box. Just a mix of E 6,000 and super glue worked amazingly, and still the holes are perfect to this day. I did reuse the original hardware and pre poked some holes just to make it easier. And to make this even look more special, I created some decorative straps. They are not functional or anything, but just to get that nice explorer look, wrapping it all around the box and securing it at the bottom. Lastly, I gave the inside a quick fabric finish just using some mod patch, and my new coins finally have a proper home. And the box works just beautifully as a decor statement piece. And by the way, for sure, someone will ask where I got the horseprint. I create those myself, so if you're interested, you can find them in my Etsy store. The next treasure to treasure challenge will be creating some stone look book ends. For that, I created simple shapes using Canva, a horse head, and an arc and cut them out using cardboard. It helps to go vertically along the cardboard design. In total, I used 15 layers. But obviously, it depends on how thick you want your book ends to be. Also, I recommend to use PVA glue, not mod patch when you stick them together, just because PVA glue dries out much, much stronger. Then you want to let everything dry overnight. The next day, they were extremely solid, so I covered them using instant filler. I forgot actually, I wanted to add more dimension to the horsehad. So I just added some extra pieces on the front of the head. By the way, I wish I had actually stopped at this application design with a spatula. I'm sure it would look great as well. For some reason, I decided to smoothen it out. Well, next time, once dry, you can just apply a simple acrylic paint. And since acrylic dries out mat, I recommend to finish everything off using a glossy varnish. And this is how my book ends turn out. I think these just pair perfectly with the box we finished earlier and the vintage books, of course, high end looking decor made from cardboard. Now let's talk ceramics. I swear every time I visit the trash yard, I come home with at least two or three pieces. And when I'm there, always focus on shape, not color. And this pot reminded me so much of the swansy pot from McGee and Cos, so I knew it had potential. Normally, you know, I spray paint all my vases before applying any texture, but I was just too excited to start and tried something new, as well. This time, I'm going to use pure soda instead of baking soda. It hardens very quickly, so you may need to add some water. So for this technique, I'm using three color mixtures of paint and pure soda. The first was this light beige tone. Definitely easier to apply if I had actually spray painted before. Then our second layer is a darker brown, applying it using my fingers. And for the final layer, I used a warmer mid chown brown, just to soften everything. And once dry, it literally looked like stone with a beautiful texture created by the naturum carbonate. So if you want to recreate this technique, use pure soda. But I'm sure normal baking soda will work just as fine. And by the way, you won't believe it. But I also found this beautiful pot on the trash yard. And since it was probably used outdoors, I couldn't get rid of these dark stains after washing. But by using the same technique we just did with all three color mixtures, we have brought it back to life. I couldn't believe people throw away vases like this. Well, lucky me, I found these two, and now they have a new home in my mom's cabinet. And yes, occasionally, flips are a trial and error. Sometimes you really get hilarious results, but it's part of the show, and even if it looks like it didn't work out, black mat spray paint is always a last resort. It, for instance, saved this vase and turned it into something unexpectedly beautiful. It now looks like a century old treasure. Now let's reveal our last ultra affordable flip. I'm sure you have old unused glass candles laying around. This one had a loose cover, and it was already used before. Created some labels using Canva and just printing them out on my home printer, then simply warming up the candle in hot water to be able to remove the old wick, replaced it with a new one, and lastly, gluing on the label using a thin layer of mod pug. This unused candle came back to life as a decor statement piece. All right. And that's it for today's video. I'll see you in the next one. 7. DIY LAUNDRY MAKEOVER: 01 - Planning Phase: Welcome to the very first episode of This Laundry refresh and Makeover Series. I tend to be really busy, but I wanted to take some time off to give my mom's laundry a much needed update. So here you can see the current situation of her laundry space. This makeover is going to be done on a lower budget. We are not hiring any workers. We are not planning any complex changes. So this isn't a full renovation, but it's a creative refresh using smart design and simple DI wise. If this were a bigger project, I would probably plan it out way more in tense. But honestly, I'm excited to see what a bit of paint and thoughtful ideas can do for this space. So if that sounds like something you would like to be part of, let's get started. The first phase of any project is to gather all the necessary information on site. So I basically started measuring the space and identifying the main issues. From that, I broke the laundry into three main areas, the main cabinetry, the wash basin area, and the laundry counter. Let's start with the cabinetry. One of the biggest issue is definitely the lighting. It's very limited in here, and those dark cabinet fronts really don't help. So I knew from the beginning that I would need to add a lighter color scheme. Now, let's move on to the sink. This whole setup is pretty outdated. Sadly, replacing the basin isn't an option right now due to the budget, but I believe we can still make it work. Well, in the bottom cabinetry, it looks pretty hilarious. It's an old cabinet from the 90s, but I think we can improve the look from the fronts with some creative tricks. And lastly, the laundry area. Right now, there isn't much space to fold cloth, and I have seen my mom storing detergent under a chair, which clearly shows the need for storage. So I'm planning to add a simple DIY cabinet solution to give her more functional and organized zones. I spent quite a bit of time in Pinterest gathering ideas. But once I had a more clear vision, I moved everything into Canva to create a simple yet effective moodboard. I wanted to have everything visualized before ordering anything and, of course, get my mum's approval, too. So I truly recommend placing your ideas, products, materials, using a software like Canva. So here's the mood board I created. The idea is to bring in lighter, timeless charm with soft tones, vintage gold details, and even a touch of marble for, of course, it's all about creating a warm, clean and classic feel. Now, let's talk about the cabinetry in more detail. We have two big cabinets. I thought about adding four molding to the doors, but they're very slim, so unfortunately, it wouldn't work in this case. But if you do have wider cabinet doors at home, that's definitely something worth trying. I will explain more about the four molding just a bit. So then I'm also planning to order these beautiful vintage style handles. They will actually be the second most expensive item in this makeover. So if you are budgeting for your own project, just know that hardware pieces can add up quickly. Okay, let's move on to the sink zone. Again, if you're doing your own project, Canva is a great free tool to lay out your thoughts visually. So this version here is a bit more informal because simply I just brainstormed and placed everything together, it's really just to collect my ideas. As I mentioned, we are keeping the sink and the countertop, but I want to add some four molding. Basically using eight millimeter double sided trim strips to dress up the fronts. For the trims, I will use these angled scissors that can cut 45 degree mires super useful for small molding work. To help with this, I will move over to sketch up to show you this in more detail. So here you can see the double four trim strips. We will also be adding simple round knobs for the doors to match the rest of the space. For the wall, I actually found those four mobile adhesive tiles. They look promising, and I'm excited to see how they will turn out. Apparently, you can just stick them over existing tiles. I have no idea. I've never tried it, so I'm curious about it. As for the mirror, well, this is truly a vintage, a 30-year-old piece. But instead of buying new, I'm actually going to try flipping it with some foam molding and probably some gold paint, brown paint. And I also want to add this little pull ring handle on the top to give it this custom frame feel. I have seen many of those mirrors on high end websites. I'm sure you came across these mirror looks. So let's see how it turns out. Well, worst case scenario, we just order a new mirror, but it's worth trying first. Lastly, I found this cute little cafe curtain with a black detail that we will be hanging on the windows. It adds such a cosy charm. Now, let's move on to the und decanter. Since I don't actually have large tools or big saws at home, I kind of designed a DIY solution using one Ikea method cabinet, which is actually a kitchen base cabinet. And I will combine it with four decor panels, two panels on the sides and two in between and one simple benchtop. So these are custom wood pieces that I will basically order in a fixed size. So I used sketch upp to build this DIY laundry counter to actually determine which measurements I will need. And this part of this project is actually the most expensive only because I can't cut these myself, and I'm using very sturdy materials, actually. But I'm sure if you have the right tools at home and buy a bit of a cheaper wood, you could totally do this more affordably. To cover the electrical box, optically, I'm planning to use self adhesive cork sheets, and I think I will darken a few squares using antiquing wax, so my mom can still pin up your appointments and reminders. I'm also hoping to DIY a modern vase inspired by vintage designs I found on high end websites. I haven't found the right vase yet, but I will keep an eye out. One of the DIYs I'm most excited about is going to be creating a four brass shelf rail. You have probably seen these all over Pinters. They add such a beautiful custom touch, but they can be really, really expensive. Ordering a full set from EtS or another decor shop can easily cost up to $200 just for the rail and brackets. So I'm going to build my own. I'll be actually using wooden spindles, dowels, and some spray paint to create the same elegant look at a fraction of the cost. We will also be adding a golden rail from Ikea and a vintage style wall lamp I found on Ebay to complete the look. Lastly, it helps to complete a full list of materials and products with their prices. It helps me basically track the total budget and avoid surprises later on, especially when working with limited resources. All right, you guys, I'm really excited to get this project going. Next, I will be placing the orders and gathering all the materials, and in the following video, we will jump right into the first steps of the makeover 8. DIY LAUNDRY MAKEOVER: 02 - Faux Molding: Hein, welcome back to the second video of My Laundry Room Makeover Series. If you haven't seen the first episode yet, that's where I basically walk you through all the planning for this space. So definitely go and watch that one first. Otherwise, you will miss all the behind scenes ideas that let me hear. Now, since all the materials are already ordered, yeah, I used the waiting time for some good odd prep work and cleanup. That meant removing whatever we don't need anymore, things that felt outdated or just weren't working in this space. And, yes, the curtain rod also made it on that laser. Oh. Since I wanted to give the entire upper wall area a new crisp coat of white paint, I taped and covered everything nearby that might actually get some drips. Luckily, my mom still had some leftover white paint laying around. So that cam in handy. And then the most satisfying part of painting, ripping off the tape. That's when you know you're officially done. Well, with the walls, at least, not the rest. Next up was prepping the wardrobe. It had a lot of knots, so I just used some wood filler to smooth them out a bit. And guess what's coming next. Not glamorous, but necessary. After a good night's sleep because sending is hard work, okay, I got back to it and started on the detailing for the doors. Remember how I mentioned I would do actually double stripes? Yeah, turns out they were a bit chunkier than I had imagined. So I switched to just one stripe. Still looks great and definitely enough of detail. I'm also super excited about the knobs I'll be using. Aren't they beautiful? They even come with a back plate. And in case you're wondering, yes, they are soon available in my shop. So the first step is marking some guides. I went with 8 centimeters, which is about 3 ", but that's totally up to your doi size and the look you want to achieve. Then I pulled out my angle cutter. Honestly, this tool was a lifesaver. It cut those 45 degree corners perfectly without any stress. The stripes technically come with a tape on the back, but I ended up using some super glue, especially at the corners just to make sure they never pop off. And, guys, honestly, this process is so satisfying. My inner perfection goblin was thrilled. It took a bit of testing at first, measuring, marking, figuring out which way to cut. But once I got a hang of it, it felt really nice and smooth. By the way, these Ikea fronts I'm currently working on are for the laundry counter. So, yes, you can totally give Ikea stuff a custom look like this, too. So, guys, what do you think? Isn't this an easy DIY anyone can do? Let me know in the comments. I think once filled with wood glue, painted and with new knobs, this will just look so much better than the original. Oh, and if you have watched the planning video, you might remember I originally thought the main cabinetry doors were too slim for this detailing. Well, it turns out I found a way to make it work anyway. I just laid the design across two doors, problem solved. To make sure it worked, I rebuilt the wardrobe in real size using sketch up and map out exactly where the stripes will go. That way, I could see it before even touching the actual doors, total lifesaver. So this is basically the design. I showed you earlier in sketch up. Just printed it out for me. Basically, I already know the measurements and things like that. And yeah, this is the cabinet. It was already prepared, and now I'm going to measure everything and mark the lines. I'm going to stick those small little details, same as we have done here and here. Okay. Let's get started. Here is the first door finished. And yeah, it looks exactly like I designed it in sketch up. I also used some wood filler to close up the little gaps in the corners. Alright, guys, that's it for today's video. We have made some good progress. Let me know in the comments what you think of this simple four molding solution. And in the upcoming video, we will be tackling the laundry counter area. 9. DIY LAUNDRY MAKEOVER: 03 - Laundry Counter: And welcome to part three of this laundry room makeover series. In the previous video, we prepped the space and finished all the four paneling on our door front using decorative strips. If you haven't watched those episodes yet, I recommend checking them out first, so this part makes more sense to you. Before painting everything, I want to actually finish the laundry counter area. So let me quickly walk you through how I have planned. So basically what I have planned for here is I got this double sided, I mean, this sticky kind of marble look. I'm not a big fan yet of the design, though. I thought it's going to be looking a little better. So just in case I'm going to see how it's gonna look. And if I don't like it, I'm going to actually use this sticky wallpaper that I got, as well. So what helps with using this one before is that, you know, I have those routes, and therefore, when you place this, you won't see any of the grout lines because this one is quite thin. So if I were just to place it like this, probably I would be seeing the grout. So therefore, I'm going to start by actually using this, yeah, adhesive looking tile. Alright, let's get started. First things first, always clean the surface properly so everything sticks well and be ready to measure multiple times. Seriously, I think I re measured everything three or four times just to be extra sure. That way you don't end up wasting any material. Now, I'll be honest, this wasn't the most enjoyable step. It was a bit time consuming, but it was absolutely worth it, as you will see by the end of this video. This method is also great if you are on a budget, like we were with this project, as we didn't want to remove the old tiles. I probably wouldn't recommend it for a bathroom, but for a well ventilated laundry room, it's a really nice DIY option. So at first, I stuck the material to the walls and applied the wallpaper afterwards because I wanted to see how the tiles would look first. But looking back, since I ended up preferring the wallpaper over the tile look, I would definitely recommend applying the wallpaper to the sheet before mounting everything to the wall. It saves you from measuring everything twice, and it also helps avoid bubbles. I do wish this wallpaper came in a thicker version, but with a little bit of patience, it worked out just fine. Now, I won't show you the entire process of applying the wallpaper. It took a while. But here's a quick look at how I continued. So remember, clean the surface. Start from the top, and slowly work your way down, pulling the backing paper off as you press the wallpaper onto the surface. Now it's time for the counter. So a couple of days ago, I had already assembled the Ikea method cabinet. Though I haven't attached the doors yet. I now begin by securing the side panels, which I had already painted in the final color using some corner brackets. I also added the feet and the cover panel. Next, I attach the rest of the counter using more brackets, making sure to leave a small gap on the sides for ventilation. If you want the exact measurements of this counter, check out my planning video where I share them both a millimeters and inches. Finally, I just placed the countertop on top, secured it with more brackets, and here's how the wallpaper and laundry counter turned out. I'm not a big builder by any means, but I'm really happy with how this worked out. The next video, you will continue by painting the entire carbonetry so stay tuned and I'll see you there. 10. DIY LAUNDRY MAKEOVER: 04 - Painting Cabinetry: Hi and welcome to Episode four of this laundry room makeover. In the previous videos, we prepared the four paneling using decorative strips, covering the old tiles with wallpaper, and also built the laundry counter. Now it's time to talk about paint. Initially, I wanted to use this brand of paint, and I'm so glad I tested it first on the side panels of my laundry counter before committing to the paint for the entire project. This side panel is still unpainted. As you can see, it's laminated. Laminated surfaces are always tricky to paint, but this brand claims their paint can cover anything, even tiles. Naturally, I was curious to see how it would perform. I had already used their primer, then applied two coats of this paint. And honestly, I was so disappointed. The finish was full of streaks, and after just a few days of drying, I could literally scrape the paint off. Some might say, that's expected on lemonade, but I have tried other brands that held up much better. And since I send it this surface beforehand, there really wasn't any excuse for it not to stick. I don't enjoy giving bad reviews, but I can only share my own experience. My advice if you're trying a new paint brand, take the extra time to test it on a small surface and see how it holds up before doing the entire project. So as mentioned, I was able to remove the old paint, and now I'm up to try this one. Wish me luck as. Hi, guys. So it's the next day, and I wanted to give you a quick update on how the paint turned out. And I have to say I'm absolutely amazed by this quality. It's actually half the price of the paint that I bought before, and it's just amazing. It doesn't have any stripes. It's very smooth. It's like an eggshell, kind of finish. It's just beautiful. I love this paint. Let me show you guys. I mean, look at this. It's absolutely stunning. It's very smooth. It doesn't have any stripes. And honestly, I didn't take much effort to just apply the paint. I used actually this brush. So it's like a foamy basically a very, very cheap brush. You can see that it's kind of already falling apart. But I bought a couple of them, so I can just exchange them. And yeah, I'm really impressed by this brand. And, I love it. Look at this. Looks pretty. Looks very nice, very smooth. So I'm glad I tried it again and didn't paint the whole wardrobe. So now I know that this is gonna work. Yeah, and I will finish the rest of the side panels, and, yeah, then we can get started with the main wardrobe. I'm excited. Now here's the cabinetry. After one coat of paint I ended up using. I didn't apply any primer this time, so I know it needs another layer, but already it looks so much better. So this is the next day. See, it's already painted. I love the color. It's beautiful. And yeah, a couple of tricks and tips that I actually would like to give you on the way in case you want to actually recreate something like this. And you can see that here, I did not caulk it. So you can also see the gaps in between. One tip I highly recommend is doing the coking with wood filler. It really makes a difference in the final look. Just fill the gaps and send it smooth and then paint over again. Now, this was before painting to remind you how it looked, and this is the end result after two coats of paint, no primer. I just love this color. It isn't stark white. It has a slight gray undertone, and it works beautifully with the four paneling. I'm especially glad I added the decorated strips, after all, to those slimmer doors. It just makes the entire design feel more elevated. Okay, guys, that's it for today's video. And the next episode, we will keep working on this laundry room makeover. See there. 11. DIY LAUNDRY MAKEOVER: 05 - Faux Backsplash: Welcome to Episode five of This laundry room Makeover Series. In the previous videos, we have finished the laundry counter, covered detailes with wallpaper, and created some four paneling, including painting the main cabinetry. Now it's time to move on to some more details I had planned for this space. In the meantime, I already hung the cute cafe curtains, attached the shelf, and installed the wall lamp I had found on Ebay. Since there wasn't any electrical outlets on that wall or the lamp, I went with rechargeable bulbs for Amazon. They screw in like a regular bulb, have different color settings, adjustable brightness, and you can just pop them off the magnet to recharge whenever needed. Such an easy way to add wall lights anywhere without any wiring. To finish the wallpaper edges, I actually used some decorative strips from my four paneling and added a simple skirting board as well. Next up is improving the look of the Backsplash. As mentioned, this is a very simple laundry makeover, so we didn't remove the old tiles instead. I wanted to test out these peel and stick tiles. So I started on the right hand side, so it could overlap towards the left, where it says overlap here. So I cut the edges with a sharp knife. Just be careful when cutting, and you can keep the protective plastic on as it can help with markings. If you prefer to work with a scissor, that's fine, too. I began from the top so that any cut tiles would end up at the bottom. And after cleaning the surface, I peeled off the backing and placed the first tile in the top right corner. The four tile looks surprisingly realistic, and once you overlap the next piece, the seams almost disappear, as you will see. So basically, I tackled the Es areas first before moving on to sections that needed more measuring and cutting. The protective layer really helps avoid making marks on the tiles directly. I would say the whole backsplash took me about an hour with the measuring and cuttering being the longest part. But overall, it was super easy and perfect if you're on a budget. At the bottom, I again, finished with decorative strips instead of caulking, just so I can remove them easily if I needed to. But if you prefer, you can also caulk areas that are needed. And here's the finished Backsplash. I think it looks great, very much like real tiles. Now it's time to fix this vintage mirror. As I mentioned, this is probably from the 60s. It's really, really super super vintage. So what we're going to do for the edges here is we're gonna use those kind of stripes that you can attach to the edges, just to have a smooth edge on this corner and on this edge sing the other side. And then we're gonna also use these kind of stripes that you can stick. You know, they have a go side. So we're gonna use them to basically hide this kind of detail because I think it's a bit outdated. And then after well, maybe before, actually, we're gonna do some paint job here, maybe spray painted gold, maybe use some vintage gold on top. And then at the end, where is it? Here it is. We're gonna have this little detail on top, you know, to match our inspirational image. Alright, guys, let's get started. Oh. All right, once cut, I moved on to painting. At first, I tried spray paint, but I quickly realized that because it's rubber, the paint cracked off as soon as I tried to bend it. I'm sorry, I didn't film that part, but just a tip, always test your paint first this type of material. So in the end, I stripped off the spray paint and used a stronger gold paint, which worked much better. I think that if you are watching from the US, rub and buff might also be a good option. But again, test it first by bending the strip to see if the paint holds up. Finally, I attached the strips to the mirror, painted the edges, and also added a little hook on top. I also attached some of the dodo rails to have a clean finish on top of the backsplash. Again, cutting those edges in 45 degree mires. Here's a quick before to remind you on how the area was looking before. And now after with the new sticker tiles and the improved mirror, I just feel like these small changes make such a huge difference, and I'm so glad we managed to give this old mirror a little upgrade. Okay, guys, this is it for today's video. And the next one, we will finish this laundry makeover with a few more DIYs before I reveal the entire space. I'll see you soon. 12. DIY LAUNDRY MAKEOVER: 06 - Laundry DIY´s & Reveal: Hi, welcome to the sixth and final episode of this laundry room Wakover. If you haven't watched the previous episodes, make sure to check them out first on where you can see how this outdated laundry space comes to life step by step. Well, in the last video, we have finished the basin area with the four backslash tile stickers and gave this old mirror a quick upgrade, as well. Now, I want to share a couple more DIYs I did for this space. If you have watched the very first episode where I shared the planning in sketch up, you may remember I wanted to cover this electrical box. And since my mom uses it to pin her appointments, we are keeping the purpose. Just give it a quick upgrade. Anyone who knows me knows I'm a huge fan of checkered pattern. And since we incorporated that in the carpet, I thought, Let's repeat it. So I used some simple cork sheets, cut them to the exact size I needed. These sheets were actually quite thin. So if you plan to do something like this, make sure to get thicker sheets so the pins hold better. I covered half of the sheets with dark brown antiquing wax. If you don't have antiquing wax at home, I'm sure you can also use some watered down brown acrylic paint. I finally attached them using a double sided tape. I didn't want to glue them permanently because I'm sure they might get damaged over time. And this way, I can just renew a tile if needed. Next was another quick refresh of those cute baskets I found. To make the color match the hardware better, I also used some antiquing wax to darken them down. Such an easy way to make things look more vintage and used, don't you think? Here's a quick before and after comparison. I also sealed them with some transparent mud spray just in case. And if you remember, I was also planning to find an old vase that I can DIY. I keep seeing these beautiful vintage vases in high end stores, and I wanted to see if I was able to create something similar using an old vase. So this is the vase I found. Not quite the color I would normally go for. So let's see how it turns out. I have never done this before, but I did see some videos where people used acrylic paint mixing with baking soda or natron. So for the handles, I will be using some femo which is polymer clay that you basically bake in a mini oven, so it hardens. You could probably use some air dry clay, too. Just don't try to hold the vase by the handles. They are only for decorative purposes. So I rolled a little snake shape for the handles, cut them to size, and also bake them in my mini oven, according to the brand's instructions. After baking, they turned almost plastic like, and I was able to glue them onto the vase. For the paint, I will use a combination of brown, black, white, and beige. I didn't have Bish acrylic paint at home, but you can just mix it using white, a bit of orange or red, yellow, and brown. Oh. For the base coat, I used some brown and black and a bit of water. I also added baking soda to both of my mixtures to add some extra texture. I don't really have exact measurements for you guys. It's just about trying things out. Worst case, you just need to mix in more paint or more water. So I started covering the vase with a cheap chip brush using the brown dark mixture, moving in from one direction to another to create a nice textured surface. I let it dry out just a bit. It was still slightly wet. Then I used a toilet tissue. I'm sorry, but they're very sturdy, you know? So it's important that you have that tissue damp so you get better results. I started tapping the beach paint on first, and then I added the darker tone as well. And, you know, added some black paint here and there. I don't think there's a real signs to this, and it's my first time doing it. I think you just need to try it out yourself. It looks crazy at first, but remember, it's a process. Keep dabbing the paint on. It's like creating a painting. I darkened the bottom part and the handles and added more brown here and there. I found that the best process on how to do this is by dabbing on the white paint or the bish paint first and then kind of mixing in some dark on the edges. This way, it creates a nice smooth gradient. To prevent the color from chipping, I used a clear mud spray paint. And here is how it turnout. Now comes the last DIY for this space, which I probably am the most excited about. We're going to give this upper shelf a four railing. In the planning video, I mentioned that I was going to use some wooden sticks, some spindles, and some spray paint as well to create this kind of brass railing for really a fraction of the cost if you would buy the real one. So at this point, we already had attached the vintage lamp I found on Ebay and a simple floating shelf. I did purchase the whole tarp brass rail from Ikea, as well as the le tarp hooks. And here you can see the tone of the railing, not so much of a vintage color. So I wanted to make them match more to our cabinet hadwaar. I decided to use some of my metallic paint that I had at home, but I'm sure you can also use up and buff. It will work just as fine. To try out a different method, I tried to use some spray paint on top of the original rail color and see how this would turn out. Also, very nice result, to be honest. So if you do this at home, I'm sure you can achieve a vintage look either way using metallic paint, rap and buff, or even some brown spray paint on top of the gold rail. Also don't forget to seal your projects with some mud spray paint so everything stays in place. Now for the spindles, I ordered two different sizes. I did decide to go for the bigger size, but if you have a small shelf, you probably want to use smaller spindles. So my shelf is 80 centimeters wide, and in total, I used seven spindles. I have placed them on top just to see how much distance we have in between. I ended up having about 19 centimeters distance from center to center. My wooden sticks, though, they are 30 centimeters long and 5 millimeters thick in diameter. So I simply cut them to its length of 19 centimeters using my mitre scissors. Next up was drilling some holes. You want to make sure to use a drill bit, which has about the same thickness as your sticks. I did make a couple of test drills just to get a feeling of how this would work on my spindles. Depending on your spindle design, you want to drill either somewhere at the top or maybe the center. Mine were the thickest in the center, so I decided to drill just there. You also want to create the end post first and basically continue your way along the shelf step by step, one hole at a time. I initially started drilling all the way through. I do not recommend doing that as your spindle might break. And also, if you don't drill straight through, your end results also won't be straight. So in that case, I recommend only drilling one side first, and then continue to keep everything straight. I did create a master spindle to mark my holes evenly each time. I then went outside and glued everything together using some super glue and now it's time to turn wood into metal. I started by using some dark brown spray paint, which we have used before. Looks nice as well if you have dark interiors and don't want to use gold. This is an alternative option. But for me, I wanted to achieve that vintage brass look. So I used the gold paint that I had and also some more antiquing bag in some areas just to get this vintage look I was going for. Next, I attach the Ikea rail to the bottom of my shelf and finished off with some more simple decor fixer uppers, which I will use for the shelf, like creating this little wooden pedestal, just using some scrap wood I found in my dad's shed. You can also create a bigger one if you have bigger pieces of wood at home. I'm sure you have seen those cute little pedestals used in traditional home decors. I really like to give something that was about to be thrown away a new life like this small little piece of wood, really. I also found these traditional wooden clothes pins which I simply covered using antiquing box again just to give them that vintage look. I placed the railing on top of my shelf. However, I decided to not glue or drill it permanently. This way, my mom can still remove it easily for cleaning. And here you can also see the cute little pedestal we have created. And, guys, we are officially done with this laundry makeover. We have come a long way from this outdated laundry space, which was an urgent need of a refresh. And honestly, guys, I couldn't be more excited about how this turned out using just a few simple DIYs that anyone with basic renovation skills can tackle. With just some paint, decors strips, and new hardware, I was able to completely transform the old cabinetry. Update the 1960s wash area. And even create a DIY laundry counter using Ikea method cabinetry paired with some pre cut wooden pieces. The four tile stickers also look surprisingly realistic, and our simple decor updates really just complete the look. Here are a few more before and aftershots so you can see how sketch up truly helped me plan this entire makeover from start to finish. Alright, guys, I hope this inspired you to give your own laundry space a refresh. Hope to see you soon again. 13. OUTRO: Thank you so much for finishing, watching all my videos and making it all the way here, but this course doesn't end here. The DIYMakersClub is designed as an ongoing creative space where you can keep learning and trying out new projects. I will be adding more tutorials over the time, so make sure to come back every now and then to see what's new. You followed along, I would absolutely love to see your results, so don't forget to upload your project in the project and resources section. If you enjoyed this class, feel free to leave a review. It helps support my work and allows me to continue creating more content for you. And if you'd like to keep crafting with me, be sure to follow me here on Skillshare so you don't miss any future projects. Thank you again for being part of the DIYMakersClub, and I hope to see you very soon in the next project.