THE ULTIMATE SKETCHUP COURSE - FOR INTERIOR DESIGNERS & STUDENTS

1. ✨ ✨ INTRODUCTION ✨ ✨: Hi, I'm Anna, founder of BilkaHmes. As a virtual interior designer, I use sketch up and layout every day to create professional presentations, technical drawings, and realistic interior design concepts for real client projects. Over the years, I have developed a workflow that completely changed the way I design and present my projects. But getting here wasn't easy. First started learning sketch myself, I spent hours watching random tutorials online, trying to piece everything together. But still, I felt unsure about my workflow and whether it was even doing things correctly. And honestly, that is exactly why I created this course. So let me show you what you will learn inside my sketch upp and layout course. This is a complete beginner course. So even if you have zero experience with sketch up, you will be able to follow long step by step. We basically begin by creating a floor plan using three different methods before moving into spatial planning, which lays the foundation for both the interior design process and for our future three D model. From there, we gradually build the entire project together, starting with walls, windows and doors before moving into furnishing and designing each space from simpler rooms to more detailed areas. Throughout the course, you will essentially recreate this complete house project alongside me, although many students also choose to create their own versions, which can become a great addition to their portfolio. Once the three D model is complete, I will teach you how to create scenes, refessional presentations, different visual styles, and walk through animations before moving into the technical documentation stage where we create elevation drawings, lighting plans, and electrical layouts using sketcher layout. And because I'm teaching from a real and tereer design perspective, I also share my design knowledge, workflows and professional templates throughout the course so you can apply them to your own future projects. But more importantly, you will learn how to build a clean and efficient workflow that helps you work more confidently as a designer. So if you're ready to finally learn sketch up in a more structured and professional way, I'd love to welcome you inside my course. O. 2. Downloading SketchUp Software - Updated 2026: Hi, guys. Let's get you started on SketchUp. In this lesson, I will show you on how you can get SketchUp software onto your computer. If you have already purchased the SketchUp PRO license or signed up for the 30 Day Trial version, you must have received multiple emails directly from Trimble. For instance, that you have created a Trimble identity account. If you haven't created one, just head to sketchup.com, click on the sign in icon and create a Trimble ID. Just make sure to use the same email address which your license was added to once you purchased it. Now that you have signed in, please click on the little icon in the bottom right corner and select My Apps. From here, you can view all included applications in your Pro license. You can download the sketchupP and choose the Mac or the PC version. After downloading, you simply install your program as you would install any other programs within your Mac or PC version. After installation, just go to your application folder, and from here you can find your SketchUp icon. After starting the SketchUp software, another window will appear wanting you to sign in into your Trimble account. Don't get confused here, since it forwards you to the Trimble website. Just sign in again as you have done before. And once you see the window that says you're all signed into SketchUp, head back to your SketchUp software. It will then automatically update your log in and show you the welcome screen. Don't worry if after some weeks, you may suddenly are locked out from SketchUp. Just repeat the log in through the Trimble account, in case SketchUp asks you to. I guess it's just for security reasons. The next video, we will start on how to set up SketchUp correctly. See you there. 3. How to set up Sketchup - Updated 2026: Great. Let's get started with SketchUp. When you open the program for the first time, you'll be greeted with a welcome screen. To get started, you need to sign in into your Trimble account at the top right corner. This will activate your license and ensure you have full access to all of SketchUp features. At the bottom of the screen, you will see a list of recent files. As a beginner, this area may be empty, but don't worry. We will get you started on your first project in no time. On the top area, you see the templates. The default template and SketchUp is very simple, but there are many other templates available to choose from. Simply click on more templates in the top right corner to explore your options. At this point, I need you to decide if you would like to work with millimeters or inches. So just so you know, in the following videos, I will use millimeters, but I will provide you with the imperial measures wherever it's needed so you can follow along. For now, I would recommend selecting the interior's template in millimeters or in inches. This will give your project a more professional look with thinner lines and the light gray background, which I like because it makes it just easier to work with. I also recommend clicking on the hard icon to make this your default template for future projects. So let's go ahead and choose Interior's template. Once you have selected your template, you will have a working window that you can resize as needed. If you work on Windows, you may see your screen as a full screen. If you are on a Mac, you have this extruded window, basically. So when you double click on it on the top of the window, it will expand to the full length. You may also notice some open windows, such as the instructor, or if you work with windows, the default tray. You can keep them open or close them as you wish. We will open them when we need them anyways. On the top, you see your settings menu. You can just click around to explore a bit. To make sure you have a straight view of your three D model, please go to camera and choose perspective. You may also want to adjust your tool palettes by going to view and selecting tool palettes and large toolset. This will provide you with another tab that open up on the left side. Now let's go ahead and customize your top tool bar by clicking on View and select Customize toolbar. You now see all of the tools SketchUp has to offer. And as you can see in the top tool bar and compare it with the large tool set on the left, you have many duplicates. So we don't really need duplicates, so you can just remove them by dragging them out. Please bring the standard views, styles and undo redo back into the bar. You may want to adjust your tool bar with your learning progress and add more tools when needed. Finally, it's always a good idea to save your model early and often. So here's the first shortcut I would like you to learn. Command S on Mac or Control S on Windows to save your file, or you can access file and save through the upper menu. Please give your file a name and save it to your desired location. And speaking of shortcuts, don't forget to check out the Crick fen sheet for a list of helpful shortcuts. It doesn't contain all the shortcuts, though, what you will learn the others from me. I really love shortcuts, as you will see during the duration of the course, they are a timesaver. So I encourage you to learn them. They will really make your life easier. Alright, let's move on to the next chapter. 4. Moving around SketchUp: Some of the essential tools in sketch up are the Orbit the Pen, and the Select Tool. In this lesson, you will learn how to use these. Let's have a look at the Select Tool. You can find the Select tool by clicking space bar on your keyboard or selected from the bar on the left. The Select tool is used to select entities in your models, such as lines, surfaces, and grouped objects. I'll explain more about groups and even components later on this course. When we start with Three D modeling for now, you can click on the entity you want to select. Or you can also create an invisible box that's going to select whatever is inside that box by holding your mouse key and just hovering over whatever you want to select. The orbit tool. The orbit tool allows you to change the view of your model by rotating it in three D space. To use this tool, you can press the O on your keyboard or you find it also on the left side on your toolbar. To use this tool, you have to click and hold the left mouse button and then rotate around. Next up is the pen tool. The pen tool allows you to move your view of the model without changing the orientation. Select the pen tool from the toolbar or press H, H for hand. Basically, on your keyboard, you click and hold the left mouse button and move your mouse in the decided direction. Now what I like to do is when I use the orbit mode, or I am in the orbit mode, I like to switch between orbit and Pen. Instead of clicking O and H, and again O, I just stay in the O the orbit mode. I use the shift button that temporarily is going to activate the pen tool. By that it's just going to make it easier to move around. Please go ahead and try these tools to get a better feeling of how to use them and see you in the next lesson. 5. SketchUp Files & Backup: Hi guys. Once you have saved your file a couple of times, you will notice that there is a copy of your file with this wavy symbol that was created automatically. Let me explain. In Sketch Up, when you save a project, it creates two main types of files. The sketch up model file and a backup file. The file with a small wavy symbol is a backup file and it has the same name as your original sketch up model. The backup file is essentially a copy of your sketch up model saved at the point in time when you last saved your project. It serves as a safety net in case your original model file becomes corrupted or if you need to recover an earlier version of your work. If sketch up crashes, there's an unexpected issue. You can use the backup file to restore your project to the last saved state. If you wish to keep copies of certain steps in your project, you can save and move the backup to another folder so it doesn't override it. Once you save it again, it will generate another back up and so on. Since occasionally sketch up crashes, I usually move my back up file in the evening to a daily folder. And once I continue with my project the next day and my file crashes or breaks for some reason, I still have my backup from previous day. It's a good practice to regularly save your work and keep both the main sketch up model file and its corresponding backup file in a safe location. Now let's move on to the next lesson. 6. Adjusting the Units: Hi and welcome in this quick lesson, let's talk about units. Depending on your country of residence, you may need to adjust your unit settings. To change or adjust your units, you need to go into the settings. You can find it under Window, model info, and navigate to unit. For most countries, you will be using millimeters, which is automatically said when you choose your interior template in millimeters. What I would actually just do here is to set the precision to zero, there's no need to showcase any digits or anything smaller than 1 millimeter or 0 millimeters. If you are from the US, you may want to adjust your settings in fractional, if you prefer to work infractions. But just note in this course, I will continue providing you with decimal inches since it's the fastest to type in for me. Just to continue this course, please use that unit and select 0.00 " for precision. This will give you two digits after the comm. Later, when you start working on your projects, I would suggest you use a unit that you are comfortable with working. Even though we have selected a template in millimeters or inches, we can always change the unit. We want to work in anytime at any stage. Whenever you feel you need to switch, you can just suggest the unit and continue working from there. Okay guys, see in the next video. M. 7. Bonus Video - Length Snapping: Actually something else that I still want to show you real quick is that when you are basically selecting your units, there is a checkbox that says enable length snapping. Make sure that that one is actually not checked on unless you really want to have length snapping. So let me show you what that basically means. So let me start first with the millimeters. Let's say I choose my millimeters and I enable length snapping and I place here 5 millimeters. As my setting. And here, for example, when I use the tape measure, which you will learn in the course, but just for you to see, basically it's steps 5 millimeters, and that's basically not what I want because of course, millimeters you want to work very exact, so you want to disable that. So this way, you can really go millimeter by millimeter. Yeah. At the same goes for inches. This can be useful, however, if you work for example with fractionals and you choose, let's say, a display of 116. You could, however, have that exact same length snapping that way your model or when you start building, basically, you are not building smaller than 116 or when you start drawing anything, if that makes sense to you. So basically, it's now it's stepping in, in 116 of precision or well, depending on the precision that you select here and also enable the length snapping. So that is your personal reference. If you need it. I recommend to not use it for millimeters. However, a, for inches, this might be useful, but I would probably use a little smaller fraction to showcase. All right. That's something that I forgot to mention in my last video, so just wanted to include that. 8. ✨ ✨ MODULE 1 (2D Floor Plan)✨ ✨ : Hi guys, welcome to module one. Now that we have set up sketch up, it's time to investigate more about how to create two D floor plans. So, over the next couple of videos, I will show you three different ways on how to do that. And by the end of this module, we will start creating our two D floor plan for our Eden Springs house. Let's get started. 9. The purpose of a 2D Plan: Hi everyone. In today's class, we will be diving into the world of floor plans, a crucial component of interior design. Before we embark on the journey of creating a floor plan, spatial plan, or three D designs, it is essential to grasp the purpose of a floor plan and why it is indispensable. What exactly is a floor plan? A floor plan serves as a two dimensional representation of an interior space or building, typically depicted from a top down perspective on a flat surface, such as paper or a computer screen. It offers a simplified layout of the space encompassing all the rooms, windows, walls, and fixed features like fireplaces. Architects, designers and builders frequently utilize two D floor plans during the planning and construction phase of a project to provide an accurate portrayal of space and identify potential issues that require attention before constructing commences. As interior designers, we can create a simplified version of these building plans to establish a foundation for our work to build upon. Subsequently, we employ spatial planning, also known as space planning. Spatial planning specifically refers to the process of organizing and arranging the physical space of a room or building and fill it with furniture, display bathrooms, or kitchen designs. It entails determining the most effective and efficient use of the available space, taking into account factors such as traffic flow, accessibility, and the intended purpose of the space. After finalizing our floor plan and spatial plan, we can then determine the products we need to purchase and at the same time start building our Three D design. Using the drawn walls from our floor plan, you can see that a detailed floor and spatial plan is key to a clean and good workflow. In the upcoming lessons, we will dive first into the fundamentals of surfaces, edges, and groups. Following that, we will explore realized scenarios on how to create two D floor plans using sketch up. By the end of module one, you will be able to create our Eden Springs floor and let's get started. 10. Fundamentals of surfaces & edges: Hey guys, before we dive in into the various methods of creating floor plans, is crucial to understand some fundamentals about surfaces and edges. Let's have a look first at the axis that you see here. The blue axis indicates up and down. The green axis shows forward and backwards. The red axis is to move left and right. In Sketch Up, we have ten different tools on how to create two D surfaces, depending on what shape you are looking for to create. Let's start with the line tool. You can find it on the left tool bar or by clicking L on your keyboard. By clicking once and releasing you create a dot which then is attached to a rubber band effect. The rubber band shows you the direction in which you will continue your line. You can use now the arrow keys to fixate it in a different axis direction. The up arrow will let your line go up and down. The left arrow will move forward and backwards. The right arrow will let you move left and right. You don't have to fixate your direction, but sometimes it's very useful as you will see over the next lessons. Now I want to draw in the right direction, so I can simply move my mouse, or I lock the direction by clicking on the right arrow. If you click the right arrow again, the lock will be released. You see on the right bottom corner that sketch up calculates the distance of that line for you. You now have two options. You can move your mouse along the axis until you have your desired measure, or you can simply type in the measure you need. Let's stride is out with 500 millimeters which equals 19.7 ". I will also show you on how to do that in inches template. In just a moment, we click and release the mouse. Then we type 500 and enter. Now our line is 500 millimeters long. Let's try this with inches, you click and release and type 19.7 " and Enter. If you prefer to work with fractions, you can always change your unit preferences by going to Window Model Info and Unit. You can choose the format and also your precision. I will continue providing you the measures for inches, since it's the fastest to type in, you can obviously change the precision for the metrical version two. Let's continue drawing a rectangle. Now, when you forgot what you measure was on the bottom of your line, you can use the inferencing snapping option by simply hover over the point and slowly move up. You see that sketch up creates a dotted line which indicates you're drawing straight in the same line as your bottom dot. This is very helpful as sometimes you don't always see the lines that car and this will make sure that your lines are straight. Once you close your rectangle in Sketch up, it creates a surface in the middle of your rectangle. Now this is very important to understand that in order to have a surface, your loop of edges or lines need to close. Very often I read commands by users not knowing why their wall disappeared or why they can't fill in their surface is really just somewhere, the loop is not closed, that's really it. Always make sure your loop is closed in order to have your surface. Thankfully, we don't have to draw all our lines with the line tool. There are other tools on your tool bar that create predefined shapes. Let's have a look at the rectangle tool. You can click R or see it on your tool bar. Once you click and release, Sketch up already shows you all four corners. At the bottom right you see two measures, one is the width which indicates also the direction of the red axis. The second one is the length, which indicates the direction of the green axis. Let's say we want to create a 500 millimeters wide and 200 millimeters long shape. We do this by separating those two measures. With a comma, we type in 500, 200 and enter the coma in between is very important. Otherwise sketch up doesn't know what to do with it now, inches, you would type in 19.7 ", 7.8 ", and Enter. It's easy. You just need to remember how to type this in. Next, have a look at the circle tool by clicking C, or you can find it also on the left tool bar. Once you click and release, it provides you the radius of your circle. If I want to create a coffee table, let's say that is 600 diameters, which has obviously radius of 300 millimeters. You could simply type in 300 and enter. If you wish to re check your measurements, you can use the tape measure by pressing or selected from your tool bar on the left. There's one important thing I want to mention here. When you select the circle tool, it shows you a number on the bottom before even clicking. As you see here, 24 means that your circle will be made of 24 segments. If you create small circles, this might work just fine. But if you do create big circles like we just did, you literally see the corners. To avoid this, you have to tell sketch up how many segments you want your circle to be. Let's try this with 60 instead of 24, and you will see the difference. Now I type in 60 and enter and start my circle. Do you see the difference? This is super important, Many don't know this and wonder why their circles look so undefined. Now the next tool I use is the two point arc. Click A or find it else on the toolbar. Here we have the same option about choosing our segments. Let's increase it and say we want 25 segments. Then I click and select my first point, and click to find the second point. Now I just move my mouse and see it does create an arc for me. This is useful when creating arch doors. For instance, if you want to exit an active drawing tool, you can use the escape key or the space button. What you may have noticed now is once the shapes overlap and sketch up, it automatically divides the surfaces. When you select the surfaces or the edges, you can use your shift key to select multiple If you remove a line by selecting it and then use your backspace key or the erased tool on the left side of your tool bar, the surface is going to disappear. Which now, in conclusion, is important to understand, that we really need to have a closed loop in order to create a surface. Now that we know how to use the line tool, the rectangle tool circle, and the two point tool, let's just quickly jump to the other tools. To be honest, some of them I never used for my projects, but maybe you might find some use of them. Now that you know how to draw shapes and sketch up, please go ahead and try all of the ten tools. See you in the next lesson. 11. Create Groups & Move 2D Objects: Hi guys. In this lesson, we will talk about how to move shapes, meaning lines and surfaces. And how to copy, group, rotate, and scale them. For this lesson, I have created some basic shapes for you. Now, when I select my move tool from my toolbar, or clicking M on my keyboard and start moving a line, for instance, you will notice that the line is sticky to the whole rest of the shape. If I click on the surface, I can then move it. It helps to use your arrow keys to fixate an axis direction. I could also select the parts I want to move. Only when it comes to selecting. You will see that there's a difference when I start selecting from left to right and from right to left. Left to right only selects everything that is within the selection rectangle. If you go from right to left, it selects everything that the select tool touches. If I want to move my circle, now I have to press Escape or click outside my selection. Let's now say I want to make a copy of this rectangle. I select my whole shape, then I use my move tool by pressing my option or control key. You see a little plus sign appearing underneath my tool symbol. This indicates that I create a copy of exactly what I have selected. Now if I want to make another copy, I have to press my option or control key again. I could also decide to copy this shape and move it to a certain distance. It always calculates from the dot you were selecting. Let's talk about groups now and why they are so important right now. You see that once lines and faces overlap, they merge together since they're sticky. Let's see how the same process would look if we would have grouped our lines and surfaces into one contained group. Let me now select the rectangle again by clicking command G or control. You see that now I have gotten a contained group. If I start copying my group now twice like we just did on top of each other, you will see that now they won't interfere with each other and they are not sticky anymore. There are two separate contained groups. I can always ungroup my groups by clicking right. Explode. This way they're an open source. Again, let's have a look now at this room with those two windows. Let's say I want to copy this window to the right. I could either select all surfaces and use my shift button to add more surfaces and then move and copy it. Just be careful to move it within the correct line, since right now you know nothing is grouped. It means if you move it by accident, here your plan starts to divide. It helps to group your windows before moving them. This way you can freely move them around. Now if you haven't created any groups yet, you do that while the windows are combined with the walls, you will see that the area underneath it will be cut out. If you don't want this to happen, you could start creating your walls first, group them, and create your windows and group them. But sometimes it might be useful to do the other way around and only group the windows after they are already drawn together within your walls. You will find more about this in the next lessons. When we start building our main floor plan. I could now copy my window to the other wall and use my move tool to rotate by hovering over until I see the dotted red line. I can also use the rotate tool for that, even though I think it's a redundant, since we have this tool already integrated in the move tool. If I was to make this window bigger, I have to go inside my group by double clicking. You can see the dotted line around indicating you are currently inside your group. Now my lines and surfaces are sticky again. I could then select the surface and move it further away to make my window bigger with escape. You can leave your group and you are back to the normal level. The last thing I would like to show you is the scale tool. Now when I select my group, I can see eight green dots around my group showing me which direction I could scale my objects to. It's easy to scale rectangle shapes, just be careful when scaling round shapes as they start to distort. We will discuss the scale tool further once we start working with furniture later in discourse. Please go ahead, try out what we have just learned. And I will see you in the next lesson. 12. Creating a 2D Plan (Situation 1 Sketched Floorplan): As an interior designer, you may come across different situations when it comes to creating a two D plan. Now that you have learned on how to draw surfaces and edges and sketch up, it's time to have a look at those real life situations. Let's talk about the first one. Imagine you have a friend or a client who has asked you to redesign a kitchen for him or her. For the purpose of this discussion, I will refer to your friend as a client as it's essential to maintain a professional approach even when working with family or friends. Suppose your client does not have any plans from an architect or a builder, in that case, you would go and visit your client and you would start by sketching the rooms on the piece of paper or maybe your iPad. Maybe your client doesn't live close by. In that case, he or she may provide you with a sketch that they already created. In either case, you would end up with something that may look like this. Obviously, you can also mark electrical sockets, water outlets, sewage pipes, et cetera. For this purpose of understanding the approach, mainly, I only drew doors, windows, and walls. You can find the PDF document in the download section. Now, this is obviously not a scaled plan, so it doesn't make sense to import this into SketchUp. Instead, we use guides to build our plan. We have two approaches here. As I mentioned, we start with creating guides by pressing the key or you find the tape measure on the left tool bar. It doesn't matter where we start drawing since SketchUp has the infinity ground, but it makes sense to draw close to the axis, since we can use those as our anchor points. We know the measurements of our kitchen. You can always have a look at the PDF that is provided in the download section, as I mentioned. Now we know our kitchen has a width of 3,690 millimeters. We snap to the green axis and we type in the measure. This will create our first guide. Now, we snap to the red axis and we type 6,930. Now that we have our guides, we can use the rectangle tool to simply create the inner rectangle of this kitchen. Now we also need the outside walls. Let's say this wall is 150 millimeters thick, which equals 5.9 ". We again use our tape measure to create outside guides, and then we can create the other rectangle. We now have the frame for our walls. You can remove the guides by selecting them one by one and use the backspace key to remove them. Or you can remove them all at once by clicking Edit, delete guides. Let's have a look at how else you could create this. We select the rectangle tool, but this time, we don't create guides. We simply click with the rectangle tool once and we type in 3,000 696,930 or the inches measurement, and we enter. Now we already have the rectangle. So instead of creating another rectangle, there is another tool I want to show you, which is really amazing. It's called the offset tool. You can find it by clicking F or you select it from your left tool bar. Now we click on the surface that we want to offset, but we don't release the mouse. We simply keep the mouse on and hover until we find the measure that we need, and then we release. Sometimes, as you can see, it's not that easy to find exactly the measure we need. So as I said before, as long as you don't move your mouse again, you can always type in the measure and SketchUp is going to fix it. Let's type in 150 or 5.9 " and then we click Enter. Since we did create already the inner rectangle of the kitchen, we actually need the outside walls. Let's go back by pressing Command Z or Control Z on PC, or you can use the undo and redo on top of your toolbar. Let's now select the offset tool again by clicking F. This time we move to the outside of the rectangle. We offset the surface outside of this rectangle. And here we go again, type in the measure we need, we enter, and we can use the tape to recheck the measurements. You will see that you may use a combination of those ways to create your lines and surfaces. It doesn't really matter which way you choose. You prefer to work with guides or use the rectangle or the line tool right aways, it's just a matter of your preference. When it comes to showcasing windows, I usually measure a 50 millimeter or a two inch frame to create a simple line. I can also duplicate a line that already exists by selecting it and using the M tool, you can also find it on your left tool bar, and I can duplicate this line. Once I select the line and I'm within my MOV tool, I can press Option when using a MAC or Control when using a PC. Now you see that there is a little plus sign showing up. This indicates that you're copying the line. Here we can also type in the measure we want to move the line to. Then I would need a middle glass panel for my window, so I snap into the midpoint of my line and use the line tool to create it. When we advance a little further in the course, I will show you on how to find pre made two D symbols like doors and windows and how to adjust them. For now I would recommend you learn to draw them from scratch to understand how they work. Be careful when you move lines or surfaces, since right now they are not grouped, meaning they are sticky. So if you move a line or surface, it can mess up your drawing. So in case you move somewhere where you don't want to be, you can always use your escape button. When it comes to creating the door, I usually use the Pi tool. So I click on one point, then to the other, and I open the door 45 degrees. Okay, guys, we're done for now. This lesson was to only showcase how you start with creating the really basics and drawing based on a sketch layout. Feel free to recreate this if you are a complete beginner in SketchUp you move on if you already know how to create this. The next lesson, we will dive in into situation number two, which is on how to import digital plans like JPEGs, PNGs, PDFs, and how to scale them up to have a base that we can use to create our floorplan. 13. Creating a 2D Plan (Situation 2 Digital Floorplan): In the previous lesson, we have seen how we draw floor plans only with creating guides and reading our measurements from a piece of paper or a scan sketched floor plan that your client has sent you. Now let's have a look at situation number two. As an interior designer, you will often receive digital floor plans created by architects or even some that may be very basic. These plants may come in different file formats such as Jpegs, PNGs, or PDFs. The quality of the measurements can also greatly vary. Some may be very detailed, while others may have a few measurements only. Although it is ideal to receive building plans directly from an architect, this is not always possible to effectively work with these digital files and sketch up. It is important to know how to import them and how to scale them to the correct measurements. Be informed that we need at least one measurement on the plan to be able to scale them up. Let's see now how to import these files into a sketch up and how to scale them to the correct measurement. Let's start by importing a very basic layout, which has just a few measurements available. I deleted the previous drawing from situation number one. To make room for this file, you can do so too. Or you can create a new file by clicking file New. This will open the default template that you chose as your favorite. Just so you're informed, you won't have to withdraw this example, since you will definitely get a chance in the next lessons to create the actual house plans. What is more important here is for you to at least see and maybe try out how to import a file and how to scale it up. Also, I want to show you a couple more things before we dive in into the actual project. You decide whether you want to recreate this plan for another practice or you feel already fit to draw plans. So you can just watch and make your notes. Okay, we start by clicking file Import. Now you see all the supported files Sketch up can import for you. You choose your file and import. Now the plan is floating over the working space and we need to ground it to the bottom. We can do so by selecting the midpoint of the axis and move the mouse and click another time to fixate the plan. When I use my tape measurement tool now and recheck the length of the measure, you will see that it's not big enough. We need to scale it While we have the plan selected, I'm going to use the tape measure again. I fixate the measure with a tape measure by clicking once at the beginning and clicking another time until the end, until we see the measure appearing on the right bottom corner. Now we simply type in the number we need. We enter. As you see now we have a pop up that appears that is asking us if we want to resize the plan. Here we just click Yes. Sketch up is scaling up the plan in the correct measure that you selected. You can recheck the measurements also, again, just to make sure before I start drawing, I want to show you some predefined view sketch up offers on the tool bar that we have adjusted previously. This you can select and it's going to automatically orbit to the predefined view, the O view that is showing the three axis. Then you have the top view, you have front view and all the side views of your project. It's going to save you time to, instead of orbiting there, we select the top view to make sure Sketch up draws our reliance on the ground and not underneath or above it. Then you see another blue icon which is called x ray. This is a very nice preview as it lets you see your project in an X ray version where you are able to make the surface invisible, or let's say less visible. This way you can see underneath the imported file and you can draw your lines on top of it. In the next few minutes, I will use the tools that I have already shown you in the previous lessons to create my walls, and we will come back for the doors again. Let's have a quick look into what grouping is within Sketch Up. In simple words, it's like sketch up is hugging your lines and surfaces and doesn't let go of them until you explode them. Meaning whatever you select and group, you can move as a combined object while it's not sticky anymore. For this example, I will start grouping my walls and the surfaces by clicking twice. You see it does select certain surfaces and its edges that surrounds it. By clicking three times, it selects all surfaces and edges that are connected. This is what we want. We click three times. Now let's say I want to group these into one group. I click command G or control for PC. Now it's a contained group that we can move as we want. If we want to make changes inside this group, we need to double click. And you can see that the preview slightly changes and that is indicating that you are inside the group. By clicking Escape, you can go back or outside the group again to your main level. Let's now create the windows and group them. Since I have this window below as well, I can simply copy my group with the move tool and move it to the spot I want it to be. I can also do the same for the doors in case I have doors that have the same size. Now if one of the doors have a different size, you can either create it from scratch, like created in the beginning, or you can copy the door that you have and adjust it accordingly. I will copy this door now and move it to the spot where I need it here. I can use the move tool to it using the four red crosses that appear. Then I can click right and flip it along the axis I need. Then I go inside my door group. Since the lines and the edges within my groups are still sticky, I can simply select the surface and then move it. And with that, I automatically adjust the door with if at this point when selecting the door, trying to flip the object, you don't see the option flip when clicking right. It means you are already working with a sketch up 2023 version. When I recorded the first part of this video, I have used a 2022 version. And they got rid of this function in the 2023 version and replaced it with this flipping tool. Let's see how it works. I have to select the object I want to flip. Once selecting the flip tool from the left tool bar, you can see it has created three axes. Note that these axes are not the same axis as globally, meaning the object has been assigned to its own axis. In this case, the red axis will flip the object vertically from left to right, and the green axis horizontally from top to bottom. You can also use your left or right arrow key to navigate. Don't mind the blue axis for now. It will concern us later when we start using three D. In two D we don't need it since it will flip the symbol upside down and we don't want that. If I want to open my groups, I can click right and say Explode. Now you don't have a group anymore and you're having an open source. Again, where the lines and the surfaces are sticky. I do find it easier to start working with groups as soon as you can in your model to keep it clean and also organized and to not mess up your lines and your walls. As you will see in the next lessons, it makes things very easy to work with groups. Feel free to import this J pec file into your class project and scale it up, just so you have done it once. At least. You can also practice creating the groups as seen in this video. The next lesson we will have a look at situation number three where we will import a DWG file before starting our final project. 14. Creating a 2D Plan (Situation 3 Importing a DWG File): In the more rare case, when you do receive a Cat file or so called DWG file from the builder or the architect of your current project. You may be able to use this file to save yourself some time when it comes to building the floor plan. I don't really come across of those files that often, since many are subjected to copyrights and the builders or architects, they are not so willing to always share them. But if you do come across one, I still want to make sure you know what to do with them. The same way as we import J packs or PDFs, you can click File Import. Here, you select DWG from the list. But before importing your file, have a quick look into the settings. I don't want to go too deep into this. What you need to know is that you can leave out the preserve settings as you want your DWG file to be positioned close to the axis. Then the geometry. You can select all three options. When it comes to unit, I always select model units, since many times I don't know what the original size was when the architect created the file. This way, sketch up automatically detects it and scales it up. It works in most of the cases. Sometimes I do have to resize the model, but I will talk about this in just a second. Now, after importing, which may take some time, depending on how big the cat file is and how much detail there is in the file, it will be placed like this, Very close to the axis, I have to say. Unfortunately, there are many cat files that are not very nicely prepared, which may lead to unfinished and broken lines when you import them, some have suddenly some three D objects in them or they just look messy. What do I use those DWG files for? Usually, I like to draw my plan from scratch to be in full control of the measurements. But what can be important are, for example, the window heights in case you are provided with a Cat file only. This is the only way you may be able to see how much space you have underneath or above windows. Sometimes I use the frame of the walls. If they are clean, just expect that with those cat files, you may have to clean them up first before being able to actually use them. One of the first thing I do is I check my scale and see for instance, if my ceiling height is correct or any other measure that you may have to be able to scale a cat file, you need to go inside the cat file, inside the group that was created. The difference with having to scale a J Pac file in comparison with a cat file is that you need to literally go inside the group to scale it up. Let's go inside the group. Let's say I know my ceiling height is 2,700 millimeters or 106.3 ". Now I can see it is not up to scale. For some reason I can use the exact same technique that I actually used when scaling up a Jpec file or PDF. Only with the difference that now I have lines, meaning that my tape measurement automatically wants to create guides. I need to click the option or the Alt key while selecting the tape measurement to remove the little ruler that appears under my symbol. Now it won't create the guides, it will simply measure. Then I click on the bottom, and on the top and type my ceiling height in and then enter this will then scale my plan to the correct measurement. Don't be scared if you have imported a cat file and suddenly it's too small or too big. Just make sure to check with any reference measure that you have, like a ceiling or a door with, or can be anything that you have. In most cases, the files come without the surface, meaning you only have lines to work with. The next I recommend is to your file by clicking right Explode so you can access your lines better. Some groups may still exist for some objects like the chairs or the tables or whatever is drawn on your files. That's okay, we can keep this grouped. Then I delete unnecessary lines and objects and basically clean up my file so I can work with it. Now to build up walls in the later stage, I do need a surface, meaning I need to get somehow my white surface back. I can use the line tool, I can draw over existing lines. I can try the rectangle tool. Sometimes it's a mix of both. Really, there's no exact way of how to get the surfaces back since files can be very complicated once they are produced. With time, you get a better understanding if it's worth to use the Cat file or if it doesn't make any sense and just to create the floor plan by hand. Now you can see that some of the surfaces turned blue. This means that Sketch up for some reason, decided to use the back side of the surface. You just have to click on the surface and right click and then say reverse. Then you have the white front side again of the face. Since most Cat files are subjected to copyrights, I cannot directly share a file with you that you can import. But believe me, if you want to exercise this and have a look at some files, simply Google free DWG files, and you will find multiple websites that provide those for educational purposes. Always check the license usage when you download a cat file. As you have seen now while I was talking, I was able to create some walls which I could potentially use to build up my walls later on. Let's keep this lesson short. If you want to try importing a cat file, please go ahead and find one of the multiple that are available. I just wanted to show you that it is possible to import those files and that you need to know that they may come with certain problems and adjustments. We are finally going to start building our house project in the next lesson. I'm so excited. I hope you are to see you there. 15. Introduction (Eden Springs Floorplan): Hi everyone. I'm thrilled to share with you the floor plan that we will build together, the Eden Springs Project. I have a fondness for giving projects unique names. As interior designers, our task goes beyond creating aesthetic pleasing spaces. We strive to evoke emotions and sensations through our design, making sure that every corner of the project reflect the intended atmosphere. With the Eden Springs, I aim to create a tranquil and serene environment that provides a resort like feeling. I firmly believe that the name of a project can set the tone for the design direction. And help to inspire not only our clients, but first us as designers, since we need to come up with a design, but we will talk more about designing later on. For now, let's focus on the Eden Springs floor plan. Upon downloading the module one zip file from the download section, you will find a variety of useful documents in here. Included are two sketch up files, one in millimeters and one in inches. This is like your master plan or backup floor plan. Let's say you can open it and have a look at how I created my groups for doors, windows, and walls so you can recreate it. Additionally, the folder contains PDF files with a complete floor plan and all the necessary measurements in the folder. Import J Pac. I have included two images as J Pac files for you to import into your sketch up file when rebuilding your floor plan. For this plan, it doesn't make sense to use technique number one, meaning building your plan solely by creating guides. As this house is too big and has too many measurements, you would have to look up. We do have a digital plan, let's make use of it. Technique number two involves importing the floor plan as an image, scaling it up, and drawing the elements. Please be informed that I recommend always uploading a Jpa file or PNG file instead of a PDF. The problem is that sketch up does not do well with PDFs. You can certainly increase the quality for import in the settings, but in my experience, that is still not enough to be able to see the measurements that well. I always make a screenshot from my floor plan in case I get PDFs. If you feel confident in your ability to create the outer walls, the doors, and the windows without additional practice, you can simply use the master file I provided and continue with those for the next video. Ultimately, the choice is yours if you want to practice more floor plan building or skip this part and work with the master file. The next video, I will draw the floor plan by importing the JP file one last time. It's still worth to watch the video since I want to show you a couple more things there. All right, see you in the next chapter. 16. Creating the Floorplan (Eden Springs): Let's begin by creating a new file. Now if you have chosen the default template with the hard icon in the template section, it will automatically open once you click file new. If you haven't done so, I would like to open another template, Then you can click on file new template. Once the file is open, please save it. It is important to save your work as often as you can to avoid losing any progress. In case of a sketch up crash, Next, import the ji pec file and scale it up. Now select the x ray mode and you can start creating lines and surfaces. As we have learned in the previous lessons, I start with creating all walls first. Now this is how your walls should look like. Have a look specifically at the surfaces of the floor, the walls, the windows and the door area, and how they separate from each other. This is super important once we start building our walls up to be able to separate those surfaces from another. A good base will save you time in the end. Make it a habit to create detailed floor plans from the beginning, especially if you're going to use this one and build up your three D from it. Now I create my windows, you may be able to copy some and adjust them to save yourself time. You may notice that the window representation differs slightly from those in previous videos. Some windows have three lines, while others have five. I chose this display to represent whether my windows extend from floor to ceiling or have walls underneath them. This visual cue will help during spatial planning, reminding me which windows are full height and which are not. Let's now adjust those windows which are full height, and simply keep three lines only instead of five. Now I start grouping my windows by selecting the surfaces and click kanji. Once we have finished grouping our windows, I would like to demonstrate what will occur underneath the windows. This area is essentially cut out from our floor plan. This step will prove beneficial when we begin constructing our walls. Trust me, and follow this workflow. It will all become clear in the end. Next, we need to group our walls and floors before proceeding to create doors. Otherwise, the same effect will occur where this area will be cut out from our floor plan. However, in this case, we will want to preserve the surface for our floor. To accomplish this, select all surfaces and exclude the windows by holding shift and clicking on them. Since they are already grouped. Now we can group everything else that is remain. Now we can proceed with creating the doors and make copies since they are all the same with you can obviously decide on how you want to represent your windows. That makes the most sense to you and your client. There are various ways to depict two windows, depending on the specific type of window you want to showcase. You can search the Web for examples of how to display fixed windows, sliding windows, and other variations to create them accurately. Now, in this case, in our Eden Springs floor plan, I have incorporated fixed windows with additional divisions. This means that some windows have an extra vertical frame within them to indicate multiple divisions. Then I also have incorporated letters for my windows. This is because I want to provide you with more details about the divisions and wall heights that may be underneath the windows. You can have a look at how I displayed that within the PDF plan. Or you can also see it here. Since we imported the first page of the PDF, we're going to need those informations once we start building our three D walls up to create letters or words in general, you can click on three D text there, You can type in your text or letter. You can choose your alignment, your fongs, and its size. If you click Fill, your letter will be filled with the surface. Otherwise it only lines. You can leave the extruded part out. Since this will create a three D text, we don't want that in this case. Please note that sketch up usually inverts the text. For some reason you may need to reverse the faces. You can do so by going inside the letter word with a double click. Then you click command A and select all. Then you click right to reverse the faces. I have also incorporated sky lights and arch door openings, which I usually display with dotted lines within Sketch Up. Unfortunately, there is no current tool which automatically creates dotted lines. I hope Sketch Up will incorporate this in the future. You have the option in sketch up layer though, but in this case I want to showcase them within my floor plan. Let me show you now quickly how I would create this sky light. I start by creating guides to set my middle point for my circle. Then I know that my skylight is 800 millimeters in diameter, or 31.5 ". I create my outer circle, then I use my offset tool to create another line in between. The middle part would be my frame. You can use the standard frame size we have used for the windows of 50 millimeters or 1.97 ", or you choose another thickness. Then I click on the explode curve for both circles and remove the lines in between. Then I also group both lines to be able to copy this Sky light to another place for lines is very similar, only that you need to click Write and say Divide. By moving your mouse up and down, you see that it shows a previous of how many faces you want to divide it into. Let's say I choose 16 to be able to achieve a similar look like the circle version. Then I also just remove the lines in between on top of my floor plan. You will see that I have copied all my doors, windows, and openings. This way I could potentially save time for future projects and just copy this box from one file to another. I may need to adjust the size of my windows depending on the project obviously, but I will definitely save time by this. You could also build a completely separate sketch up file to collect all your two D symbols to be able to use them later on. It could be like a master file for your two D symbols. Just so you know, since you bought discourse with me, you are free to use all my symbols and all my furniture and even textures I have built for all your projects. Don't need to worry, please go ahead. If you want to practice this, you can recreate the whole floor plan just the way I showed you in this video. If you already know or feel comfortable doing this, you can use my master file. In the next video, I will show you how we do the spatial planning for each room. 17. ✨ ✨ MODULE 2 (2D Spatial Plan) ✨ ✨ : Hi guys, welcome to module two. This module is all about spatial planning. I will show you how to create a two D spatial plan. How to make use of two D symbols from the sketch up warehouse. How to create your own symbols. And how to depict certain rooms, showcasing wardrobes, bathrooms, kitchens and more. So let's get started. 18. Introduction to Spatial Planning (Eden Springs): In this lesson, I would like to provide you with a brief introduction to spatial planning and explain why it is crucial to engage in it before commencing any three D design. Let's begin by answering the question, what is the spatial plan? In simple terms, as interior designers, we determine the specific types and sizes of furniture pieces required for particular areas. Additionally, we must consider situations where existing furniture pieces are to be incorporated and combined with new ones. Now, why is spatial planning so important and why I typically undertake it soon after drawing the floor plan? Reason number one, determination of furniture types. By engaging in spatial planning, we gain a clear understanding of the furniture pieces needed, which greatly assists in sourcing the appropriate products. For example, when considering the entryway, I would know that I require a custom made or ready to purchase closet. Along with these, I need a bench, a mirror, a console table, and perhaps an excellent chair with a small coffee table on the site. This enables me to determine exactly what needs to be sourced for this room. Reason number two, determination of furniture sizes. With a correctly drawn floor plan, we can measure the walls and spaces where the furniture will be placed, allowing us to define the maximum size of each piece. This narrows down our search, ensuring that we only consider furniture pieces that will fit within the designated space. For instance, we can determine that a bench in the entry area can only be of this certain size based on the measurements we have obtained and so on. Reason number three, estimation of furniture and accessory quantities. Special planning helps us estimate the number of furniture pieces and accessories required, providing an understanding of the time investment needed for sourcing these items for specific rooms. For instance, let's say we determine that we need approximately ten pieces for the entryway, excluding light fixtures. Now we can estimate how much time we need to spend sourcing all these items. The time required for sourcing each piece varies dependently on the country and availability of options. You can conduct a time trial exercise by attending to source specific styled furniture, pieces and accessories for this house. Noting the duration it takes to find all pieces in a suitable size. And then divide the total number of minutes by the amount of products you searched. Then you have your approximate estimate for one piece. This is just an example of how I usually provide this to my clients when it comes to estimation. As you can see, incorporating spatial planning before diving into three D offers significant advantages. Therefore, I highly encourage you to include this step in your process. It's important to know that you have the flexibility to decide what elements you want to showcase within your spatial plan. You can choose to incorporate carpets, light fixtures, and other details as well. However, for the sake of simplicity in this house, I have focused on the core elements to avoid overcomplicating things for you. In the upcoming lessons, we will discuss each area and how I have represented them. I personally have created all these symbols, but I will show you on how to find more to these symbols within the sketch up warehouse. Depending on your experience in spatial planning, you may want to build further knowledge within this topic as each room has its own challenge. Obviously, designing bathrooms, laundry rooms, or kitchens need more in depth knowledge than designing an entry, for instance. But with each project, you will gain more knowledge and you will feel more comfortable speaking of knowledge by enrolling in this video course. You have also gained access to my epoch bathroom measurements cheat sheet. This resource provides you with standard measurements for designing bathrooms. Rest assured, more books will follow as I understand the challenges faced by new designers. When I began my journey in special planning, one technique greatly helped me was literally stocking large furniture stores and meticulously examining their products. I would study sofa sizes, coffee tables, consoles, and more. Taking notes along the way. Since humans are generally proportionally similar globally, you can determine standard sizes based on what you need. I also have always a small measuring tape with me. Wherever I go, I just measure anything that I found especially good or even not so well executed. And just keep taking my notes. Remember, learning spatial planning takes time and practice. It won't happen overnight. Be patient with yourself. Embrace the learning journey, and gradually build your expertise with each product you're working on. The next lesson, we will have a look at my two symbols I place within this plan and how to find more for you to use. We will also learn to work with tags, or so called layers, and discuss how to display custom made furniture. See you there. 19. Working with tags & 2D objects - Updated 2026: Hi, everyone. Now, if you have created the floor plan, your file should look like this. I would like you to open the master file provided within the Module one zip folder. Let's begin by talking about tags, also known as layers. In all the versions of SketchUp, they will refer to as layers, which actually makes more sense. However, they are now called tags. To view tags, please click on Window and select tags. So what exactly are tags? In SketchUp, you can assign objects such as geometry, groups or components to a specific tag. Each tag can be toggled on or off, allowing you to control the visibility of objects in your model. This feature becomes particularly useful when working on large projects with multiple areas, since it can lower your loading time when you only turn on one particular layer at a time. By assigning objects to a different tag, you can easily show or hide them, making it easier to focus on specific parts of your model or temporarily hide elements. For instance, you can assign all your furniture and accessory objects to a Spatial Planning tag. Then you can easily turn it off or on to show or hide these objects. In the videos, I may refer to tags as layers, so just so you know what I mean when I mention layers. The untagged layer is always present and cannot be deleted. It acts as the bottom layer. You can create new layers by clicking on the plus sign. If you have drawn your floor plan yourself, at this point, you can create a new layer and name it Spatial Planning, for instance. Another useful feature is the ability to copy objects from one file to another. So let's open the master file. Turn on the Spatial Planning layer that I have created, and you will see that I have placed all the furniture on the new tag. To copy these objects into your floor plan, you can simply select the upper part, copying it by using Command C or Control C, and paste it into your current file using Command or Control V. You will notice that SketchUp recognizes the layer I created for these objects in the original file and automatically generates them in your new file. Additionally, you also have the option to paste the object in the exact spot from the original file by clicking, edit, and selecting Paste and place. This can be quite useful at times. Creating a separate layer for Spatial Planning can be very useful, especially if you plan to use your floor plan with layout. In SketchUp layout, you can easily hide layers, making it convenient to display your floor plan on one page and your floor plan with Spatial plan on another page. That is why I always create a layer for Spatial Planning objects or even for my electrical plans. Now that we have a Spatial Planning tag, we can start creating our Spatial plan. You can decide whether you would like to copy the symbols from my legend into the Spatial plan or be super creative and create your own design for our Eden Springs home. So what options do you have when it comes to two D symbols? Well, the easiest way is to search for two D symbols within the SketchUp Warehouse. For that, I like to actually open a new file so I don't start importing all the layers and unnecessary materials into my own project. Now, the SketchUp Warehouse can be found on the left to bar. Another window will appear. And this is the SketchUp Warehouse, and it's packed with furniture, accessories, materials. They have been uploaded by people who wish to share their models. It's the only way we can all benefit from each other by sharing our objects into this warehouse. You will learn later on how to share your own objects within the warehouse as well. You can use these objects in your projects. Just don't start sharing them yourself with others or start selling any objects. That's the reason why I had to create all my furniture, all my materials, and all my symbols for this course in order to share them with you. But since you have enrolled in this course, you are free to use them as you wish. For all your projects, there's no need to worry about it. We can now type in to these symbols and enter. Just click through all four categories. They may not all be super organized, and sometimes it takes a minute to find what you're looking for. Let's say I have found a collection of two the symbols. We can download the file to our computer, open it, and copy the symbol from here. Or we load it directly into our current file. Place it with one click and start using the symbols from here. Keep in mind that these objects you downloaded have been produced by different people. So the files can be messy at times, can be unscaled or just weirdly produced. Make sure to check the size of the symbol you want to use if it has the correct scale of your future furniture piece. If I were to use this chair in my special plan, I can toggle inside the whole group if it has any, check the measurement and scale it in case I need to. Sometimes the object can be grouped. Sometimes they have a surface and sometimes they simply don't can try to fix symbols that don't have a surface by toggling inside the group and just draw a line over the existing line using your line tool, and it will be filled. I also make sure that the symbol I'm going to copy is a group, or basically a clean symbol. I also delete all the layers in this file, so I don't start accidentally copying layers into my new file. Now that I have prepared this symbol ready to copy with Command or Control C, I can move back to my project and paste it with Command or Control V. From here on, we can move it to where we want to. If you need to draw symbols or areas to display, such as custom wardrobes, kitchen or laundry rooms, most likely, you won't find those symbols in the SketchUp Warehouse. It's they're very specific to your project. You may want to use the line tool and the rectangle tool to display those areas. Now let us talk about what the tagging tool does. Let's say we create a rectangle somewhere with a crossed line inside to represent a wardrobe. Don't forget to group the lines and surfaces by tricky clicking, by triple clicking and then grouping it. I just want to mention something here. This pencil should always stay where it is on the untagged layer. If in the future videos, you see me actually moving it to a specific tag, just ignore it. Back when I created the video, I didn't know it was actually better to just leave the pencil on the untagged layer. That means that all lines and all surfaces remain on the untagged layer. Then basically define on which tag we want this object to be placed, for example, by using the tagging tool. So this is where you can find the tagging tool. Right now, when I toggle that tag off, it doesn't disappear, but in order for it to be actually on that tag, it should disappear. So this way I can decide if I want to display this specific tag or not. So it means it still is on the untag layer. In order to tag this object, we use the tagging tool by simply selecting the object you want to tag. Then you highlight the tag you want that object to be placed on. Then you use the tagging tool and basically click over the object. That means that SketchUp now has the information that the group itself is going to be displayed on the Spatial Planning tag. And as you can see now, when I talk in it on or off, it disappears or appears. That means that it is now on the correct tag. So sometimes it can happen that by accident, maybe you click outside of that grouped object, and by accident, maybe tag another object that is below or next to it to the Spatial Planning tag. So it can easily happen, but in order to avoid this, I actually like to use Aecond method on how you can place object on a specific tag is basically using the entity in four. You can find the entity info tray to going under Windows entity in four. Using a Windows computer, it should be already on the right hand side under your default trace. So basically now I can select my object and choose from the dropdown menu on which specific tag I just wanted to be. Or you can simply typing in the tag, and it appears if you, for instance, have many tags. So again, sometimes this can be very useful by using the entity in four Window, especially if you have multiple objects that you wish to place on one certain tag. For that, let me actually show you one of my current projects, working on the Gallatin Gateway project. So you better understand what I mean and how to better organize it. So as mentioned, this is my Gallatin Gateway project that I'm currently working on. It does look very complex. Yeah, at the same time as the Eden Springs project, I'm actually going to show you the Gallatin Gateway project. So you have another yeah, view on some other project. So in that case, yeah, you can see that I have created many tags in order to display certain things. So, for example, I actually want to have a floor plan tag. And right now you can see that I have some for examples. These are showcasing the beams. I actually want to place the beams on a separate tag. As right now they are on the floor plan tag. What else do we have? These are actually lighting symbols that I later use for layout, just some crosses so I can actually want to place them also on the lighting symbol tag. So right now they are not correctly tagged. So that's what we're going to basically do. So this one, I can see that this one is correctly tagged. It is on my floor plan tag. Then what else? My Spatial Planning tag, my Spatial Planning tag does look correct at this point. But, for example, this one are actually for my floor plan. So this should actually be on my floor plan. So I just select multiple of them. I can just over over them like both, or I can use my shift button to select multiple ones. This one, as well. This is supposed to be, there's supposed to be a door opening or basically an yeah, an entrance opening. So it actually should be on my floor plan. So I simply select my floor plan. I could use the tagging tool, as I have shown you before, but I don't like to do that. I actually like to just use the entity info. So I have a bit more control of what goes into which tags. Right now it's untagged. It's on the untagged layer, so I simply choose my floor plan by typing it in and enter. Now you see that disappeared because simply because I have not toggled it on and off, but now they are correctly placed. So yeah, this is how it should be. So let me see what else I have on my Spatial Planning tag. This looks all correct. This seems to be. This one actually, this works. This is the bookshelves. Yeah, the bookshelves should be on my Spatial Planning tag. I mean, there is no right or wrong on how you create your tags. I actually like to use one tag or a floor plan to display basically my walls. I like to use Spatial Planning tag where I simply just all my basically my spatial plan in it. You could also make another one to showcase plumbing, and I don't find it yeah, really useful. So I'm pretty fine with just the basic plans, the basic tags. Sorry. So in that case, the Spatial Planning tag just shows me everything. So why do I place Spatial Planning on a different tag simply because later in layout, which I'm going to also show is that you can just toggle all those tags, you can toggle them off in layout. So whenever you want to display something specific, for example, like a spatial plan or like a floor plan, I recommend to place the floor plan on one tag than the Spatial Planning symbols on one tag. And then maybe you have lighting symbols that you don't want necessarily on all of your previews. I like to actually place them on, lighting symbols tag. What else? Maybe some beams because beams can be a little distracting. In that case, you can just make two different views later and layout, one that shows this room without the beams, one with the beams. So in order to disable them, you can just toggle them off on and off. So yeah, that's the idea behind it. So let me actually see what else we have here. For example, this one, let me actually group them. They're not really grouped. So this one should be on the lighting symbols. And then what else? These guys, this is a beams. Definitely should be on the beams tags. Here we have more lighting symbols. Placed here, and I like to toggle them off in order for me to see if they actually disappear. If they disappear, that means they have been tagged correctly. There's more lighting symbols. Just use the shift to add them all in one. And then lighting symbol. This one, too, so actually open sewer still. I'm just going to group them. So this and this and this. And that's why I mean that sometimes it's easier to just use the entity in four because otherwise, I start using that tagging tool and just maybe by accident, tag the floor plan or something. I don't want that. So this really helps to have it very clean. And then let's see what we have here. This looks already pretty clean. Yeah, this looks good. I have my lighting symbols on one tag. Then yeah, what else? Actually, doors. I like to place doors also. On one tag, you see here, this one is actually still on the floor plan, so it should be on doors. I mean, I specifically let this be very messy just for you to see and how you can fix it. So let me just select all the doors and then place them correctly. These are all the doors. Here's another. This, this one more here. There's one more. And these just enter. One more time, so you can see if they disappear. Yeah. So now, basically, let me check if we have toggled all doors, tagged all doors, sorry. This should look good. Yeah. So my doors are fine. How about my beams? Looks good in here. There's one beam here. Were there. This looks correct, as well. And then my floor plans actually easier to view to view it like this. So this basically should be all on the floor plan. So now there's nothing. Well, we have the floor plan. We have the spatial plan or actually next would be the doors. Then we have you could also do windows, but I don't think that's really necessary. So I don't usually place windows on a different tack. Then I have my beams, so I could make one view later to showcase my floor plan with all the doors, all the walls, all the windows, and maybe the beams and make some dimensions in here, and then later turn it off and maybe showcase the Spatial Planning. So that you will definitely learn in the layout module where I'm planning on also creating videos for the Gallatin project, so you can see this project also and how I utilize the floor plan and the tags later on. And this layout the lighting symbols. So for now, I can just to them off, Sir used later. So, yeah, now we are basically have a clean file and I simply wanted to show you how to correctly. Yeah, use the entity info instead of the tagging tool. Some people like to use the tagging tool, but yeah, I just simply wanted to show you both options. I prefer to use the entity info, as I have more control over it. Lastly, another tip. If you just can't seem to find a specific to D object from the warehouse and you need to create it yourself, what usually helps is to find a JPEC file, import a file as an image, scale it to the correct measurement. Use the X ray mode, and just trace over it to create the specific symbol that you need. From there on, you can just copy this symbol into your project. Okay, guys, I would recommend you pay a visit to the SketchUp Warehouse, try to find some symbols, and use them for the spatial plan. You are free to use my symbols as well. And if you're up for a challenge, try to create some symbols yourself. Over the next videos, we will go room by room and see how I displayed certain areas. See you there. 20. Working with tags & 2D objects: Hi everyone. Now, if you have created the floor plan, your file should look like this. I would like you to open the master file provided within the module one sub folder. Let's begin by talking about tags, also known as layers. In all the versions of sketch, they were referred to as layers, which actually makes more sense. However, they are now called to view tags. Please click on Window and select Tags. What exactly are tags in Sketch up, you can assign objects such as geometry, groups or components to a specific tag. Each tag can be toggled on or off, allowing you to control the visibility of objects in your model. This feature becomes particularly useful when working on large projects with multiple areas since it can lower your loading time when you only turn on one particular layer at the time. By assigning objects to a different tag, you can easily show or hide them. Making it easier to focus on specific parts of your model or temporarily hide elements. For instance, you can assign all your furniture and accessory objects to a spatial planning tag, then you can easily turn it off or on to show or hide these objects. In the videos, I may refer to tax as layers. Just so you know what I mean when I mentioned layers. The untagged layer is always present and cannot be deleted. It acts as the bottom layer. You can create new layers by clicking on the plus sign. If you have drawn your floor plan yourself, at this point, you can create a new layer and name it Spatial planning, for instance. Another useful feature is the ability to copy objects from one file to another. Let's open the master file. Turn on the spatial planning layer that I have created, and you will see that I have placed all the furniture on the new tag. To copy these objects into your floor plan, you can simply select the upper part. Copy it by using command C or control C and paste it into your current file using command or control V. You will notice that Sketch Up recognizes the layer I created for these objects in the original file and automatically generates them in your new file. Additionally, you also have the option to paste the object in the exact spot from the original file by clicking Edit and selecting, Paste, and Place. This can be quite useful at times. Creating a separate layer for spatial planning can be very useful, especially if you plan to use your floor plan with layout In sketch up layout, you can easily hide layers. Making it convenient to display your floor plan on one page and your floor plan with spatial plan on another page. That is why I always create a layer for spatial planning objects or even former electrical plans. Now that we have a spatial planning tag, we can start creating our spatial plan. You can decide whether you would like to copy the symbols from my legend into the spatial plan, or be super creative and create your own design for our Eden Springs home. What options do we have when it comes to two symbols? Well, the easiest way is to search for two D symbols within the sketch up warehouse. For that, I like to actually open a new file so I don't start importing all the layers and unnecessary materials into my own project. Now, the sketch up warehouse can be found on the left to bar, another window will appear. This is the sketch up warehouse and it's packed with furniture, accessories, materials. They have been uploaded by people who wish to share their models. That's the only way we can all benefit from each other by sharing our objects into the warehouse. You will learn later on how to share your own objects within the warehouse as well. You can use these objects in your projects. Just don't start sharing them yourself with others or start selling any objects. That's the reason why I had to create all my furniture, all my materials, and all my symbols for this course in order to share them with you. But since you have enrolled in discourse, you are free to use them as you wish for all your projects. There's no need to worry about it. We can now type in to these symbols and enter, just click through all four categories. They may not all be super organized and sometimes it takes a minute to find what you're looking for. Let's say I have found a collection of two these symbols. We can download the file to our computer, open it, and copy the symbol from here. Or we load it directly into our current file, place it with one click, and start using the symbols from here. Keep in mind that these objects you downloaded have been produced by different people. The files can be messy at times, Can be unscaled or just weirdly produced. Make sure to check the size of the symbol you want to use if it has the correct scale of your furniture piece. If I were to use this chair in my spatial plan, I can toggle inside the whole group if it has any, check the measurement and scale it in case I need to. Sometimes the object can be grouped, Sometimes they have a surface, and sometimes they simply don't. You can try to fix symbols that don't have a surface by toggling inside a group and just draw a line over the existing line using your line tool and it will be filled. I also make sure that the symbol I'm going to copy is a group, basically a clean symbol. I also delete all the layers in this file so I don't start accidentally copying layers into my new file. Now that I have prepared this symbol ready to copy with command or control C, I can move back to my project, select my spaceship lining tag, and paste it with command or control V. From here on we can move it to where we want to. If you need to draw symbols or areas to display, such as custom wardrobes, kitchen or laundry rooms, most likely you won't find those symbols in the sketch up warehouse is they're very specific to your project. You may want to use the line tool and the rectangle tool to display those areas. Make sure your pencil is on the correct tag before starting to draw. And always work with groups so you can move your two D symbol freely around. It can easily happen that you start creating a symbol and for cut to be on the correct tag. In case that happens, we can start tagging our symbols. Let's talk about tagging, which basically means that we move objects, surfaces to another layer, or tag if you wish to move certain objects to another tag simply because you forgot to draw on the correct layer, or you have suddenly a weird tag in your file that you basically copied from another file. You can use the tagging tool, which is located in the right upper corner, to move your object to the correct tack. It doesn't matter where the pencil is located. If you use the tool, you could leave it at the tag layer. But what is important is to select the correct layer before assigning objects to a new tack. If I were to select our two symbol that currently is on the untagged layer, while having our spatial planning tag selected, you will notice a violet bounding box. Once you start clicking with the tool onto the symbol, everything that is within this group you click on will be moved to the layer you had selected. Be careful with the tagging tool as you can sometimes by accident, move or group objects onto other layers. Now, if for some reason the tagging tool didn't work, meaning some lines or surfaces still appear to be on a different layer, you have to investigate deeper by opening window entity info. This window will showcase on which layer your group currently is on. If you toggle deeper inside a group, it can even show you where single surfaces and edges are located. It can happen that a group is on a different layer while one of its single lines or surfaces is on a completely different tag. Whenever you encounter suddenly that a line still remains on another tack. Let's go deeper to investigate if this specific group has a specific line that may be still on another tack. You can just reassign it by selecting all objects within your group and using the tagging tool or selected from the Entity Info option here. Lastly, another tip. If you just can't seem to find a specific to the object from the warehouse and you need to create it yourself. What usually helps us to find a Jpa file, import a file as an image, scale it to the correct measurement, use the X ray mode and just trace over it to create the specific symbol that you need. From there on, you can just copy this symbol into your project. Okay guys, I would recommend you pay a visit to the sketch up warehouse. Try to find some symbols and use them for the spatial plan. You're free to use my symbols as well, and if you're up for a challenge, try to create some symbols yourself. Over the next videos, we will go room by room and see how I displayed certain areas. See you there. 21. Entryway Spatial Planning: Hello everyone. In the upcoming lessons, we will dive deeper into spatial planning for each room. If you're already an experienced interior designer and feel confident in your ability to handle spatial planning and effectively present your spaces and sketch up, feel free to proceed to module three in case you are short on time. However, please keep in mind that my intention is to provide all of my students, regardless of their experience level, with not only sketch up knowledge, but more in depth information on interior design and spatial planning. I want to help you grasp the connection between sketch up and interior design and learn how to seamlessly integrate these two worlds. When it comes to spatial planning, creating a road map is essential. By this I mean generating ideas on how to design each area within the room the best way to spark those ideas. You guessed it. Inspirational images start by collecting images or creating multiple pinterusboards for each room and fill them with ideas that align with your vision for the space. At this stage, the ideas don't necessarily have to conform to the same interior style. Instead, focus on the technical aspects. For instance, you can admire the placement of a table in the middle of an entryway from one image. Or appreciate the concept of a console table with two stools underneath from another image. Some areas may also be influenced by your client's specific needs and preferences. In such cases, incorporate the ideas and seek inspirational images to assist you in the design process. The objective is to create a digital map that effectively displays your idea within the spatial plan. This allows you to communicate your concept more clearly to your client. By doing so, you give your client an opportunity to provide feedback on the overall floor and design before investing too much time in the three D visualization. It avoids situations where the client might later say, I never wanted an ax and share here I prefer a bookcase. Instead, by presenting a comprehensive spatial plan, you can address potential changes and modifications earlier in the design process. This way, if significant revisions are needed, you can communicate to the client that additional charges may apply since they have already approved the initial two spatial plan. Let's say I have gathered all the ideas for the entryway, including a bench with a large mirror, a custom made wardrobe, a console table with artwork, and an excellent chair with a small side table. I would then start creating my two D symbols and simply try to visualize the ideas that I have gathered in my Pinter S board. Within my spatial plan, I could draw my own symbols or find some to use within the sketch up warehouse. It does make sense to use pre made symbols from the warehouse, as it will save you time. But make sure they have a correct scale. Meaning you would need to know about what standard sizes are for certain furniture pieces. Otherwise, you may end up placing a chair which hasn't been correctly produced by the person that has uploaded the file. Now the chair is suddenly 1,200 millimeters wide. If you are unsure about the width of standard and shares or any other furniture pieces, you can look up measurements from various online stores to get a better understanding and take your notes. If you were to adjust the size of the symbol you have created or gotten from the warehouse and wanting to make this bench, for instance, a little deeper, be aware of some scaling issues that may occur if some cures are involved in your drawing, you will see that you may start distorting your symbol when scaling them to a different size. To avoid this, you have to sometimes move lines instead of simply scaling them. It works great with scare or rectangle shapes, Not so much with rounded shapes, then you need to move the lines instead. Now let's take a closer look at how I presented my custom made wardrobe. You might wonder why I have provided such detailed information. Well, I have experience in designing custom made furniture and I know how I want to display them on my spatial plan, so they can be helpful when transitioning to the three D design phase. You will have to find your own workflow or just adapt mine if it works for you. There's not a specific rule on how to display your spatial plan. Make it in a way you can communicate it best possible to your client. Now, if you're not familiar with standard measurements for custom wardrobes, I recommend spending some time researching different stores and examining how they construct their products. Specifically, pay attention to the number of boxes they use, the thickness of the fillers, and how wide each box can be without bending Ikea packs, for example, has been a valuable resource for understanding good measurements. With their years of expertise, they have honed their designs to work effectively. In the wardrobe drawing, you can see that I have positioned a custom made water consisting of two boxes each metering 1,000 millimeters, or 39.37 ". And additionally, I have included the door which has a thickness of 20 millimeters, or 0.79 ". To indicate the door opening direction, I utilized the Pytol. The lines across symbolize that the wardrobe is tall or full height. Furthermore, there are side panels, or fillers, as I like to call them. In the adjacent more detailed view, I have showcased the inside frame with dash lines. This level of detail is not mandatory, but I have included it to help you understand how the wardrobe will be constructed in the three D model. If you lack experience a custom made furniture design, or struggle to grasp the concept because you are new to three D design, you can simply place a basic rectangle with a crossed line to indicate the presence of a wardrobe. As you gain experience and delve into three D creation, you will become more familiar at effectively displaying custom made furniture within your spatial plans. As you start designing them in your head, don't stress it if you can't create them like I did at this point. After the full course and having to recreate this in three D, you will exactly understand the process and why I have displayed them the way I did. Lastly, you have the option to display artwork or mirrors by using basic rectangle shapes. If you want to take a step further, you can even indicate the placement of panels. Okay guys, let's wrap it up for now. Feel free to take notes and explore these symbols by entering the group to see how I created them. If you're up for a challenge, you can certainly recreate some or all of them, but it's not necessarily, since I have provided the master file for you to continue following along. I'll see you in the next lesson. 22. Office Spatial Planning: Hi everyone. In this video, let's shift our focus to the office area and take a quick look at what I have planned for this space. As you enter the room, you will notice a long shelf positioned on the right side. Currently, I haven't finalized the detailed design of the shelf yet. Depending on the width limitations imposed by the carpenter, I may need to split it into multiple shelves to ensure it won't bend. My client, who is an interior designer herself, requires this space to display her interior design samples. In that case, this shelf will serve that purpose. Across from the shelf, there's a large window where I intend to place two accent chairs and a small table and a big house plant. This arrangement will provide a comfortable area for my client to host her own clients and engage in discussions to optimize the workspace. It's always a good idea to position the desk vertical to the window. This way the sunlight won't interfere with looking at the screen. And my client can still enjoy a pleasant view while looking outside the big window if she wants to behind the desk. I plan to install consoles along the way. They won't be too tall, and I vision a wall panel behind them. Currently, the console is attached to the wall, and the wall panels start from the top of the consoles. I have represented this in the detailed view to provide better clarity. That's why they are placed on top of the console. There's a filler piece that is needed to be able to open my doors more easily. Followed by two boxes with the front, an open small box with shelves, another wider box with open shelves as well. Then we have the same set up on the other side. What is important to consider replacing furniture, I need to ensure that there's enough walking space in general. And sufficient room behind the desk is crucial to become familiar with the amount of space required for comfortable movement within the room. Usually 750 millimeters to 1,000 millimeters, or 29 to 40 " for walking distance is sufficient. Opt for more, if possible, behind the desk. Leave at least 1,000 millimeters or 40 " of space. Now what you can also see is that I have included some detailed view of the carpentry from the top view to provide my carpenter with a better understanding of the design. This is the reason why I create all my drawings for custom designs, so detailed in my spatial plan, as I use the exact same file to create my top elevations and layout, I will obviously create more elevation views from the front and the side of the cabinetry. Once I have designed it in three D, it's important to know that it's common that during the design process, you may need to adjust your spatial drawing a little bit. If you notice that your design may not work as planned or your client, ask you for some changes. At this stage of the design process, the primary focus is on presenting your initial ideas and getting your client excited by showcasing the overall design and flow of the space. Now let me quickly show you another way on how you could create dashed lines to showcase an inside frame. For instance, in the past video we have divided the lines and removed the lines in between. There's another way on how you can do it. First, let's create another layer and call it dashed lines. Now I can simply create my inner frame using the offset tool and move the line here to the front, since I won't have any frame in here. Then I select my three lines with the shift key and use the tagging tool while having my dash line tag active until I see the violet box appearing. I recheck if the lines have been moved to the tag, then I simply use the dashed function within the tags and select the dash line I would like to use. As you can see, this is another way of how you could create dash lines by using a separate layer. Just remember that whatever you will place on this new layer will be automatically dashed. Okay guys, let's move on to the next lesson, where we will discuss the bedroom and closet area. 23. Bedroom & Closet Spatial Planning: Hi everyone. Now let's take a closer look at the bedroom area. The bed typically serves as the focal point of a room. It is often placed parallel to the window, which works well in most cases. When considering the size of the bed, it's important to ensure a minimum of 750 millimeters, or 29 ", of walking space to the left and to the right side. I have also worked with bedroom spaces where 600 millimeters or 24 " of walking space was possible, but I wouldn't recommend it as it can feel quite tight. As you can see here, I have nearly twice the size of the recommended walking space for the walkways. I suggest having a minimum of 1,200 millimeters, or 47, ", to allow two people to pass comfortably. In addition to the bed, you might have another desk, or a makeup table, or an accent chair with a small bookcase. In my design, I have chosen to incorporate a bench as well. While I could place it in front of my bed, I decided to utilize the space by the window for the bench. Then I might consider placing two artwork pieces in front of the bed, or I could also choose a big mirror instead. I'm still open to the possibility of change at this point. Moving on to the bed area, we have the wall panels, some artwork, and a king size bed. Now let's see how we could adjust the bed size. In case you have a project where a king size won't fit. Suppose I wanted to make the bed 1,600 millimeters, or 63 " wide. I can create a guide using the tape measurement tool and input the desired measurement. Please note that I select the outer line from which I want to measure. If I were to use the scale tool, you will notice that the bad side tables are still grouped within the bad group. To ungroup them, I need to explode first the group. By clicking right Explode, you will notice that some groups may still be there. You will come across this quite often when maybe downloading symbols from the two de warehouse. Just remember that you can have multiple groups inside one main group. And you will need to explode them individually if you want to go back to your open source. And then you can group them as you prefer to have only the bed in one single group. I select all the lines and surfaces by triple click, ensuring they're all connected. And then I create another group with command or control G shortcut. Now I have each product in its own group. If I were to use the scale tool, now it would work. But what I don't like is that the bed frame thickness changes on some sides. To avoid this, I can hold down the shift key while using the scale tool. However, this will also make everything else smaller. Let's create another guide first to mark the total length, since that length usually don't change much. With the guide in place, I can use the scale tool. Again, scale it in the width using my shift button. Then I go inside my group and select all vertical lines at the bottom that need to be moved. Then I move them back to its original length. Another approach is to skip using the scale tool altogether. I could simply go inside the group, select the outside lines if cures are involved, I recommend selecting the line along with its corners. When you want to move it, then I simply move them to my guide, I have the perfect width. I could then adjust the pillows slightly doing the same. That's it. As you can see, both methods work. It's just a matter of personal preference and how the two D symbol is constructed. Sometimes it works, We're scaling it with a scale tool. Sometimes you need to move lines instead, or even a combination of both. It's always helpful to have your master file where you can save multiple bed sizes and then simply reuse them with every different project. You won't have to scale them again. Now let's shift our focus to the closet area. It's important to note that not everyone has the luxury of a walking closet. However, if you or your client has one, it's crucial to ensure sufficient walking space. Particularly, if you plan to place two wardrobes across from each other, aim for a minimum of 1,200 millimeters, or 47 ", of walking space, and if possible, consider opting for even more room. In this particular design, we have approximately 1,335 millimeters, or 52.2 ", of walking space available. When determining the depth of a wardrobe, it's helpful to have a look at ready made wardrobes available from different online stores just to see which depth they use. Typically a depth of 550 to 600 millimeters, or 23 to 24 ", is great. When it comes to the width of each box, they can vary 500-1 thousand millimeters, which equals 1732 to 39.73 ". I have used two boxes with a wardrobe door, then another open box with shelves which will be used for shoes and backs. Additionally, I have included some filler pieces on each end to be able to open the door more conveniently, especially if you plan to use handles that kind of stick out. It is necessarily to incorporate filler pieces. They might not be necessary if you have open shelves, boxes like on this side. But since I used it on the left side of my cabinet, I included them here as well to make the look complete. What really helped me understanding how to design custom made furniture is by literally scanning inspirational images in a very technical way. I had a look at how they used filler pieces, how they combined boxes, if they have used kickboards. With time you will gain experience. We will definitely talk more about designing them once we start building in three D for the spatial planning, it's more important now that you get familiar with standard width and depth of wardrobes in general. That's all for now guys, feel free to recreate these symbols. But at least I would really encourage you to try to experiment with rescaling the bad. For instance, using the scaling and line adjustment methods to gain a better understanding of the process. I will see you in the next lesson. 24. Bathroom & Powder Room Spatial Planning: Hello everyone. We have covered a lot of ground when it comes to spatial planning, but now we are diving into more challenging areas. Let's talk about bathrooms. Designing bathrooms can be quite a task, which is why I have created an E book just for you. You can find it in the download section in the module two file. The bathroom measurements chi cheat is a valuable resource packed with important measurements. It covers so many topics, from needy sizes to standard shower dimensions, space needed for toilet areas, and much more. It's a comprehensive guide that you can refer to whenever you need it. I'll be creating more E books in the future, especially focused on the more complex areas, since it's impossible to cover this vast topic. In just one video, we will focus on how I designed the bathroom and powder room within the ten springs floor plan. I recommend that whenever you have time, get familiar with important measurements reading my E book to build up your knowledge, let's begin talking about the Powder Room. A smaller but important space in our design to create a visually peering entrance. I have placed the wall hang toilet out of sight. It's always more pleasant to be greeted by a beautifully designed vanity rather than a toilet when entering the space. However, keep in mind that the placement of both fixtures can depend on your project's plumbing situation and the location of the pipes and water supply. Obviously, for comfortable usage, toilet areas typically require a minimum clearance of 900 millimeters, or 35.5 ", if possible, it's advisable to opt for more space to enhance comfort and accessibility. In this design, the toilet roll holder is positioned 700 millimeters, or 27.5 ", from the back wall, providing convenient access to maximize storage and functionality. I'm planning to create a custom made vanity for my client. It will feature a divided design with the main area equipped with drawers for storing various items. On the right side of the vanity, I will incorporate open shelves in my vanity, specifically designed for storing fresh gas towels. I did keep the drawing here more simple. Since I found this is sufficient to show it to my client. I could, of course, add more written information within my PDF spatial plan for the client or the builder to understand the layer better. I have also included an integrated shelf in the design, which will be built as an addition to the main wall. When considering wall mounted spouts and mixers for your projects is crucial to recheck if they are compatible with your specific requirements. Factors such as the existing plumbing system, the wall structure, and thickness, water pressure can all influence whether concealed options are even possible. It's advisable to have discussed with a professional to determine which type of tab ware, toilet, and other fixtures can be installed in your bathroom. These considerations should be made before embarking on spatial planning or creating any three D designs, as they can significantly impact the final design outcome. Okay, then I will consider placing a mirror on the shelf or potentially hang it, although I haven't made a final decision yet. Additionally, I will incorporate a towel holder above the vanity for convenience. Another important aspect to note is the thin lines I have created throughout the bathroom representing the tiles and the tile glue. In the showcase design, the tile thickness, including the glue or else so called water, is 12 millimeters or 0.47 ". This can obviously depend on the product you choose. Typically, you can add three to 6 millimeters, or 0.12 to 0.24 ", to the tile thickness for the tile glue. However, it's essential to remember that the actual thickness may vary depending on various factors such as type, tile size, brand, and the specific adhesive being used. It's always advisable to consult with the manufacturer's instruction or the Tyler for this precise products you're working with. To display my wall tiles, I have copied my floor to not mess up the original floor surface. Then I left my group and I placed it on the same spot. Then I use my offset tool to define my 12 millimeters, or 0.47 ". I remove the unnecessary surface in the middle to not get confused later with my floor surface. Lastly, I placed it on the correct layer in my design, I have maintained a consistent tile thickness throughout the house for simplicity. While it's not necessary to showcase the tiles in your spatial plan, I personally find it helpful to visualize the areas where tiles will be installed. Additionally, when discussing the kitchen later on, it assists in understanding how the tile placement may impact the width of the bench top in this powder room. The thickness of the tiles will indeed have an impact on the dimensions of the custom made vanity. Therefore, I may need to delay ordering the vanity until after the powder room has been tiled or make sure I get decent expected information about the total installment thickness from the tiler. Being aware of the potential impact of the tile installment thickness on the design, we can ensure that the vanity and other elements are properly accommodated within the space. Now let's proceed to the bathroom area. As we enter the arched entrance, we will be greeted with a stunning long vanity and a freestanding bathtub positioned on the right side by the wick window. The vanity follows a similar layout to the powder room, but with slightly different dimensions adjacent to the vanity. The freestanding bathtub features concealed and wall mounted spout and a separate mixer. Additionally, there is a hand shower with its own mixer for added convenience. The window design showcases a half had window where the walls are positioned below the window frame. A separate space is allocated for the toilet, providing privacy and keeping out of direct sight. Continuing further, we have a walk in shower with a beautiful skylight above. This inclusion enhances the ambience and creates a beautiful spa like atmosphere. To ensure a comfortable shower experience, I have placed the mixer for the rain shower head on the left hand side rather than directly beneath the shower head. This allows the client to turn on the shower and wait for the water to warm up, avoiding the initial burst of cold water. Moreover, I have incorporated an integrated niche within the shower, providing a convenient storage space for toiletries. Again, if the existing walls of your project meet the necessary thickness requirement and condition, this niche can also be installed seamlessly within the existing walls. All right. Everyone, feel free to get familiar with the comprehensive bathroom measurement guide provided in my E book. You can either read it now or refer to it once we start designing the bathroom in three D. Throughout my experience, I have found it a bit challenging to find high quality two D bathroom symbols within the sketch up warehouse. That is why I took the initiative to create the most important bathroom symbols. Just for you. You can find the bonus sketch up file with the symbols also within the module two zip file. It is called two D bathroom symbols in both millimeters and inches. Feel free to use them in any of your future projects. Okay guys, we're done for now. See you on the next lesson. 25. Laundry Room Spatial Planning: Everyone, In this video, we will discuss some important considerations for designing a laundry room. Firstly, it's crucial to determine the purpose of the laundry room. Will you need to incorporate additional functions such as a pantry, ironing station, mud room, or any other feature? Secondly, it's essential to identify the position of your plumbing and electrical connections to plan the layout effectively. For instance, in this project, the water supply for the washing machine is located in this area, while the water supply and sewage for the sink are situated here. These aspects are vital to consider early on as relocating plumbing can be costly or impractical. Additionally, my client requested an open pantry, and I found a perfect wall to separate it from the laundry area. Now I have created a U shaped layout combining both the laundry area and the pantry. It's important to know that you should allocate a minimum of 900 millimeters, or 35.5 ", of working space between the cabinet front, the washing machine front, and the wall, or any other carbonetry directly across from each other. This ensures convenient access and comfortable movement within the laundry space. Once I have defined the placement of the washing machine and dryer, I typically start designing the rest of the room around these places. It's important to leave a minimum of 25 millimeters, or 0.98 ", gap between and around these appliances to ensure there is enough room behind them. Approximately 50 millimeters or 1.97 ". Next, I add a bench top above this area. I would like to include a hanging rod. This allows for convenient hanging of clothes that can't be dried in the dryer and should air dry instead. Since the hanging rod provides better support when attached between carbonets, I will position a spacious broom closet on one side and two tall cabinets on the other side. In the corner, I will incorporate open shelves for additional storage above the sink area. I will install closed cabinets, again for a need to look and more storage options. Let's talk about the bottom cabinetry If you're having difficulties understanding of how wide you should design your cabinet doors, your drawer fronts, or width of cabinet boxes, I couldn't recommend visiting a kitchen design showroom. Designing laundry rooms is very similar to designing kitchens when it comes to their cabinetry. So have a look at real life dimensions of cabinet fronts to get an idea of how wide they can be. I'm definitely going to create a laundry room design cheat sheet in the future, or by that time you will see this video, it might be out already. In this design, I decided to create a big broom crosset with 1,000 millimeters, or 39.37 ", of width. That provides sufficient space to store an iron board, rooms, and cleaning supplies. When it comes to the bottom carbonetry, you can see that I kept them quite slim. I also tried to use the same width of cabinet fronts, if possible, to ensure a unified look. Here I'm showcasing the difference between a single cabinet box and a double cabinet box as demonstrated underneath the sink. Given the size of the sink, it's evident that I need a double front cabinet box in this case to accommodate it properly. Designing corners can be a bit tricky, especially when aiming for a clean and modern look, without using outdated sideways or corner fronts. In such cases, filler pieces come in handy. If you have drawers, it's crucial to incorporate a filler piece that is at least as wide as the adjoining cabinet front and handle depth, just a little bit of extra. This ensures that the drawers or doors don't collide with the other cabinet door or drawers when opened. In this particular design, I won't be using handles and instead I'm going to opt for a shark H opening. But I still need some space to open the cabinets conveniently. That is why I have included the filler piece in here. As you can see, I have used a 1,000 millimeter, or 39.37 " wide box to access the corner storage by opening this cabinet front. I have employed a similar approach in the other corner, which will be combined with a cabinetry from the open pantry. If you're a beginner, this might all seem a bit confusing to follow completely, but don't worry. Once we start building the design in three D, it will all make sense. And you will also understand why I have provided such detailed drawing in the first place. Having this two D road map saves me time during the actual three D modeling process. Okay everyone, the next video we will discuss the final area, the open space, living, dining, and the kitchen, before we dive into the three D stage. See you there. 26. Dining, Living & Kitchen Spatial Planning: Hey everyone, Welcome to the final episode of this module. I sincerely hope that the information I have shared so far has given you valuable insights into special planning for each room. While some may not find special planning particularly exciting, I personally consider it an absolute must. It has proven to be immensely helpful when sourcing products, presenting my ideas to clients, and offering numerous other benefits. We have just one more lesson on spatial planning before we dive into more exciting aspects. Just bear with me a little longer and we will kick start your sketch up knowledge in module three. Let's talk about the dining area now. I did keep this area really basic, since the table is surrounded by a big window front. I have kept about 1,000 millimeters, or 39.37 ", of space from the table to any wall or windows. This works for those three chairs. But if you want to create a bigger table with more people sitting in this area, I would definitely make sure I have a minimum of 1,200 millimeters, or 47.25 ", of space from the table edge to the window or wall. People can get up and walk in comfort if there's no chair on one end. Those 900 millimeters or 35.4 " are sufficient. I could consider now planning a bigger dining table than this one. Let's try to make it bigger by moving my lines instead of just scaling it. When it comes to comfort, you can say that every person needs about 750 millimeters, or 29.5 ", of space. I could potentially place two more chairs on each side to extend my table for another 1,500 millimeters, or 59 " in length. Let me show you now a little copying trick here for the chairs. When selecting the midpoint of my chair, I could start moving it to the next midpoint, which would be 750 millimeters or 29.5 ". Do not have to copy this chair another time. What I could have done in the first place is once I start copying the chair, and I still see the measurement at the bottom right, I simply put in a little star. Depending on where your little star is on your keyboard, you may need to press Shift to get it. Then I need to decide how many more chairs I would need, including the one that I'm currently trying to copy. In this case, it would be two. I type in star two and enter. This trick is quite handy. Let's do it on the other side as well. I select my chair, use the copy function and type in 750 Enter. And without moving or clicking anything, I simply press my shift to create my star and place the number two behind. Now I have created the bigger table and incorporated four more chairs. Let's transition to the living area. When choosing a sofa, it's essential to consider the number of people it needs to accommodate and familiarize yourself with standard sofa sizes and shapes. You can explore additional to these symbols in the warehouse, ensuring that you have the correct measurement. If not, you can easily scale it or adjust the lines to create the desired size you need. Determining the optimal distance between the sofa and the TV is another important consideration. It's helpful to search the Internet for recommended viewing distances based on the size of the TV. In my case, I have a TV that is 1,350 millimeters, or 53.15 " wide, which correspondence to a 60 inch TV. It's important to note that the main number for TV's usually represent the diagonal measurement. Therefore, when a client has mentioned the 60 inch TV, it's actually refers to a width of 1,350 millimeters of 53.15 ". Checking the dimensions in the product information can provide for the clarity. After researching, I found that for a 60 inch TV, a minimum recommended viewing distance is about 2.5 meters, which equals 98.5 ". Since I have an additional arm chair in the living area that reaches that limit, I choose to move my sofa slightly further away. This adjustment is perfectly acceptable considering the substantial size of the TV. When it comes to choosing the right dimension of the coffee table, there are some rules involved. I will definitely create a cheat sheet for that in the future, since even that can be a little tricky. It depends on the shape of your sofa and the shape of your coffee table. Obviously, you can start investigating on that further using Pinterest. For instance, make sure you have about 300 millimeters or 12 ", of leg room, which helps identify if your table is too big or too small as well. Generally, coffee tables come in ranges 600-1 thousand millimeters, or 23.5 to 39.5 ". Then I also incorporated a console table behind the sofa where the client could place some books or decoration. Here we will install a fireplace, which will be completely tiled. Now let's proceed to the kitchen area. The layout follows a galley style design, featuring a substantial island that can comfortably accommodate four chairs, with the possibility of adding additional chairs around the rounded edge. There's a pillar strategically placed underneath the island for support within the space. I have incorporated both a dishwasher and a double sink. Additionally to provide clarity, I have indicated the opening direction for any fronts that are not drawers. As you can observe, I have intentionally created 130 millimeters, or 5.12 inch of air gap between the back of the cabinet and the front panels beneath the bench top to allow for pipes and connections. Typically, it is recommended to have approximately 300 millimeters, or 11.81 ", of space for comfortably leg room. This ensures that individuals have ample space to move their legs and sit comfortably while using the countertop. I highly recommend leaving a walking space of 1,200 millimeters, or 47.2 ", between the different areas. This provides a comfortable and spacious environment. However, if you have limited space, a minimum of 1,000 millimeters, or 39.37 ", can still work. On the opposite side, I have designed a pantry storage area with numerous tall cabinets offering both functionality and a delightful view of the garden. On the master file, you will find three different ways how I showcase the kitchen. These range from a basic representation to a more detailed depiction where you can even see the inside frames of the cabinets. The level of detail you choose to include in your spatial plan depends on the time you can dedicate to creating this and the level of precision you require. I recommend opting for a layout that allows you to at least visualize the number of cabinet boxes you will need. This will greatly assist you in designing the kitchen more effectively. Okay guys, if you're filling up for a challenge, you can try to recreate this kitchen using only the PDF measurements provided. However, don't feel obligated to do so. You are also welcome to create your own unique kitchen design within the space if you're feeling inspired. Alternatively, you can simply continue watching the videos and follow along. Congratulations on completing this module. In the next module, we will dive into constructing walls, floors, windows, and truly begin working with the exciting realm of three D. Looking forward to seeing you there. 27. Bonus Video - 2D Phase Gallatin Gateway Project: Hi, guys, before we start actually the three D phase, I want to take this opportunity and to just create another quick video, showcasing you again the two D spatial plan for my Gallatin Gateway project. So just to summarize basically what you have learned, in Module one and Module two. So initially, I used, yeah, basically an image or a floor plan that my client provided me and this house is actually not built yet, so that this actually is the plan that the architect provided. It's very simple at this point. And yeah, my client basically wanted me to recreate it to see if there's any layout, maybe improvements that I would suggest because what I experience is that oftentimes architects use standard dimensions for spaces. And yeah, when you actually start to do spatial planning, you then realize that yeah, some walls can be moved or some areas are too big or maybe too small, and that is something that you notice once you do a really good and planned spatial plan. So this is basically what I did here, as you can see here when I turn on my remote, is that the original floor plan that was by the architect, there are some areas that I have adjusted just based on the design. Like for instance, here, making the pantry a little bigger, as this I felt was kind of unused space. So you can better use the pantry here. Or just this whole entire living room dining room, kitchen situation was a tiny bit too short. Once I started doing the spatial planning, I noticed that. So those are things that you notice when you do a spatial plan, and especially if it's a new build, that's wonderful if you have the opportunity to do a spatial plan before, they actually start building because this way, really you can create a design for your client that has everything the client needs, everything the client wants, and you actually are able to also place the electrical sockets. That's another topic because oftentimes yeah, sockets are just weirdly randomly placed, and then you have to basically design around the sockets. So in this situation, I have a new build of my client and everything is still open. There's still time. So that's the perfect situation that you can basically have. So, yeah, that's for the information when it comes to the spatial plan. So in the same way as we did in Module one, I imported the PDF plan in here. Unfortunately, I didn't have any dimensions on this plan. What I did have was I asked the architect to give me at least one wall dimension. So that way I could basically scale it up and then later, of course, create a detailed floor plan of this with dimensions that I can go back and basically give the architect either the plan, the sketchup plan, exporting it or just, yeah, basically, create a PDF plan with dimensions, so the architect can continue from there. So yeah. So I have created my walls first. So let me just remove this together so you can see a little better. So in the same way, as we have done in Module one, you start by creating guides. You know how thick your walls have to be, things like that, and you create a very clean and detailed floor plan with walls. So I did use some texture here. You can see if you're going to learn how to apply materials in the next module, just for now, know that this one was white before, and I just gave it another color. Don't want to mess with that right now, ignore it. What I want you to see here is a clean separation between the walls and the windows at this point, and also my surfaces. So this will help me a lot when I start doing my three D phase. If I have those areas separated from each other, actually, I forgot here because this is opening just to separate this area as well and here too. Mingle from here. Yeah. So now I'm inside my group. I group the entire walls and the windows and basically where the doors are going. This is, this is basically where the doors will be, or this is yeah, an opening. What else? The staircase is here as well. So this is inside my group is all open source. And at this point, you could I have shown you this in the video, you could group your windows, but it is not necessary. You can just also leave everything just open source within one main group, one big group, just to save your time. Because in that case, I can also move windows by selecting this area and move them somewhere else if I have to. So it's not really necessary to group them. It's just an option. And for the windows, I did actually sorry for the doors, I did actually create my doors on a separate tack because I don't want them to interfere with my floor plan. Because if I had, for instance, created my doors in here and started doing my frame, so just do it like randomly so you can just see what I mean and then start doing this. That would happen because I'm basically inside my open source main group of my walls and windows. If I start placing my doors inside here, it will cut out my floor. And once we start building the three D, this will become a problem because I actually want to use this clean surface and maybe apply a different material on it, and this is going to be done in the way. So yeah, I recommend to not do that to just simply have only the walls and the windows. Inside this group and then go on and create your doors outside of this group, then group them separately and place them yeah, on a different tack like here. So this is just a freely movable, yeah, to the symbol of a door. And what I also want to mention here as you can see, again, this is how I like to work. I like to showcase the five lines. If I have, for instance, a window that is not full height that has a wall underneath and if I have a floor to ceiling window, I just like to leave out these lines. That's just my personal preference to showcase. This way, I know for sure. Okay, these are full height windows, full height. This is a bathroom. This has a wall underneath. So I'm actually yeah, be able to I don't know, place something on the wall if I wanted to have wall fixtures. That case, I don't have wall fixtures. But yeah, it helps me in the spatial planning a lot to remind me which of the windows was yeah, has some space underneath it. And then what else would I wanted to show you for the floor plan? Yeah, that's it. Basically, I just create my lines and surfaces with the tools that I've mentioned the ten drawing tools. But really mainly I'm just using the rectangle, the line tool, maybe sometimes to the arc two point arc tool to maybe just create some arched or some rounded openings. Let's say that. What I want to show you next is the spatial planning that I did after that. It means that once I have finished my floor plan, I want to I created a new tag, call it spatial planning tag, and started placing all my two D symbols from here. So you can use the symbols I have already shared with you. Again, you can search the warehouse for more symbols. You can create your own symbols. And yeah, basically have my Pinterest collection for each space and then display my symbols in here to showcase my client later on what I'm planning to do here. So here we have, for instance, just a carpet. Carpets are not necessary to showcase. You can do it. However, I did it in here, just to remind me of the size of the carpet that I'm going to need to source for the client. And then we have a bench in here. Then, actually, I will have an opening inside under the staircase that leads towards the mudroom, which is going to be here. You also have an entrance from the outside to go inside a mudroom here, and we have a small water closet. Then here is a small another closet that she can use for her for more storage, maybe some shoes, for coats. And then here is the laundry room where I basically displayed my single boxes that help me later to or already here define how many fille pieces I'm going to need. And this certainly depends very much on the design. I'm planning on showing you also the actual three D. Design of this entire project might take a while before I can upload them, but I recommend you always come back and check again if I have added some more videos, and you will see them that I'm actually going to display on how to create this treaty, and we will go more into detail there as well. And then here we have the office number one, which is going to be her office. She's going to use that. Here, I'm planning to have all like, yeah, open glass front in here with a glass door as well. And deer is leading towards the open space, living, dining and kitchen situation. Here, I actually want to create another coffee bar and maybe with some wine coolers, wine fridge in here as well. And they also have a small little pantry. And here we have a cinema room with even more cabinetry. So that's a big project. And yeah, there's going to be a lot of Tree D, a lot of custom cabinetry involved, and I'm happy to share all of this once it gets finalized. And then here we have basically the guest bedroom. And there's another office in here. And here's the guest bathroom, another powder room. So yeah, this is a big project. And to finalize this, they also have their private gym, which I'm very excited to design as well, and even a spa with their own sauna and yeah, the bathroom, a shower and even a coffee bar in here as well. And then on the second floor, which is just consisting of basically the master, I did place it towards the big window where they have a nice balcony as well. And that's just the main feature of this bedroom and as well, yeah, maybe a makeup table or they can even use it as some study nuke or just if they prefer to work from here, they also going to have a small coffee bar area on this side. I did place a TV that will be suspended from the ceiling. And here's the big walk in closet, which they have and a big bathroom with a separate toilet area, a shower where you can look outside to the garden. So yeah, this is a very nice and exciting project. And yeah, I just wanted to let you know that I do find that spatial planning is very important. The beginning of the three D phase because I noticed that many interior designers like to actually just go ahead, jump right into three D and then realize, Oh, what sizes do I need actually? And this can greatly save you time if you do a proper spatial plan before even starting your three D design. So you are already prepared and know, Okay, the sizes I'm going to need for my cabinetry boxes, or this is the size of the sofa that can fit in this space. So you already know what to source for, and those things are very important. I highly recommend to do a special plan the beginning of the Tree D process, and you're good to go. So yeah, excited for this project. And yeah, feel free to send me a message if you have any question about this. I'm happy to share even this file if you want to. Yeah, just send me an email. And, in the next module, you will actually start learning three D, and I will see you there. 28. ✨ ✨ MODULE 3 (3D Framework) ✨ ✨ : Hi guys and welcome to module three. In this module, we will finally start with our three D framework. Building our walls, arched openings, windows and doors. Let's get started. 29. Fundamentals of surfaces & edges (3D): Hi guys, Welcome to module three where we will finally delve into the world of three D modeling. In module one we have covered the basics of flat surfaces and edges. Now let's talk about how Sketch Up handles the surfaces and edges. To begin with, I will demonstrate by drawing a simple rectangle shape. To understand the construction process, I will start by creating lines that extend along the blue axis. To lock my direction, I simply click the up arrow, and then I can put any desired value. Next, I can lock the line on the red axis by using the right arrow key. I hover over the bottom point to match the length of the bottom line. Once I close the loop, we have another vertically placed to the surface. We repeat the process for the remaining surfaces and combine them all. Alternatively, we can also use the rectangle tool to achieve the same result. When the last surface is combined, sketch up automatically generates the top surface for us. In total, we now have a three D box composed of six phases and they're connecting lines. Removing a line would also delete the surface that depend on it. Similarly, deleting a surface would create a three D shape with a missing face. Fortunately, we don't have to manually draw all the lines and surfaces, because Sketch Up offers a powerful tool called push, you can find it on the left tool bar or by pressing P on your keyboard. Let's go back to our flat rectangle. Select the push pull tool and simply hover over and select the surface we want to extrude. By moving our mouse up and down. Sketch up automatically generates all necessary surfaces and lines. We can enter the desired hate and press Enter. Additionally, we can push pull from the sides to further extent or retract our object to gain insight and to the internal structure of our three D object. We can activate the x ray review which allows us to see through the object. Doing so reveals that the object is completely hollow on the inside. X ray review can be helpful when examining an object's construction. I could now divide each surfaces using lines or create further flat shapes on the surface and move them in or out. Now let's remove one line as it could happen by accident to anyone and see how to fix it. Once removed, you can see inside the three D object, but my surface is missing. How do we get it back? In order to create a surface, you need to see if one line is somewhere missing. In this case, this straight line that combines the whole structure in order to create your surfaces is missing. Let's put it back. What it also does now is creating a new surface on the area where I had my window. And now it's suddenly merged with the whole wall. It happens as Sketch Up likes to create ingenuously surfaces, even though we might not want them in order to fix this. Now I have to tell Sketch up, please divide this area again. By doing so, we can redraw the window using the rectangle tool and simply remove the face. What is important to mention is that if you create multiple objects that you would like to move freely around, I recommend creating groups whenever you feel the object needs to be separated from the rest. If I was to move this object now selecting its five surfaces and start moving it, it might work if you are on the same height, but if I was to move it up or down, you can see that the bottom lines are attached to the top surface. To avoid this, I should have grouped my whole object before creating another rectangle, which I also group. Then I can move it freely around. If I was to change something within my group object, I have to double click to go inside my group. With escape, you can leave the group again. Always ensure that you're working within the correct group. It's worth noting that drawing a line outside the group won't have any effect on the selected object. If you want to make changes to a grouped object, you need to go inside the group and start making your changes. Lastly, I would like to mention that you will come across objects that have multiple groups within one main group. This is usually the case when downloading three D furniture from the sketch up warehouse. In order to be able to manipulate those objects, you need to go inside the main group to see if it consists of further groups. This way you can go deeper and deeper into the levels. Grouping is crucial, and in the upcoming videos we will explore when it makes sense to group objects. And we will definitely see groups within groups when we start building our custom made wardrobes. Al, right now it's your turn to experiment with a push pull tool. Creating shapes, removing lines, and fixing missing surfaces. You can also start creating some three D groups which can be moved freely. See you in the next lesson. 30. Differences between Groups & Components: Hi guys. In our previous lesson we have explored different techniques for organizing geometry and sketch up. We have discussed the importance of using groups as a way to keep things organized. However, there's another option we haven't explored yet, and that is using components. Today, we will compare all three options, open source groups and components. To help us understand the differences. I have created three rectangles using the open source method. Now let's move on to creating a stair shape using the push pull too. Once we have our first stair, we select the whole object and then we can make copies using the move and copy function. Remember, you can also use the shortcut. We have learned earlier by typing in the star and the number of stairs you need and pressing Enter to create your copies. Now we have an open source staircase where each step sticks together. There are some limitations to working with open source geometry. If we want to make changes to just one step, it affects the connecting lines and surfaces as well. This lack of flexibility can be a bit challenging. That's where groups come in. Let's build the same staircase, but this time we will group the stairs before making copies. After creating our first stair, we can select it and create multiple copies. Again, this will give us a group staircase where each stair can be moved independently. Although we could group all the stairs into one main group by selecting them all, let's leave them ungrouped for now. Lastly, let's create another stair and selecting the entire shape. Instead of grouping it, we will write Click and choose Make Component. We will give our component a name such as Stair and Skip the other options for now, these additional options are more relevant when sharing files through the sketch up warehouse or providing additional information. Now let's compare the open source geometry, grouped objects and component objects with the open source geometry, everything is interconnected and sticky. Modifying one part can affect the connecting lines and surfaces, making it challenging to make individual changes. In contrast, the grouped stairs provide more flexibility. Each stair is contained with its own group, allowing modifications to be made independently without affecting the others. Lastly, let's have a look at the component object. Components act as clones of the original object. When changes are made to one component, all its clones automatically update. This means that modifying one component stair will result in changes being applied to all the clone stairs. To summarize, open source objects are sticky and not very flexible. When it comes to changes, groups maintain individuality within their respective groups, while components act as interconnected clones. When to use group and components, groups are very often and commonly used and it's a great way to be able to separate different objects or areas from each other's components can be useful when creating multiple identical objects that require simultaneously modifications such as windows, doors, or stairs. I usually use it for doors or a staircase, like in this example. In the case that for some reason you need to isolate a component from its clones, you can select that particular component and choose unique Changes made to this specific component will only affect itself. But when we copy this unique individual component again, you create another clone and it retains its association with the original unique component it was created for. Hope. That makes sense to you personally, I tend to avoid working extensively with components because sometimes I may forget to make them unique before altering a window to a different size. This oversight results in unintended changes to all the windows. However, if you find a use for components, feel free to incorporate them into your workflow. Sketch up models can become heavy when they contain numerous unique geometry instances. By using components, you could potentially reduce your file size as instances of the same components are stored only once. This optimization helps maintain better performance, especially when working with large and complex models. To view all the components in your model, you can click on Window and select Components. Here you can find our stair and the newly created one when we clicked on Make Unique, as it creates a new component from it. We will come back to this window at some point again, just so you already know where to find your components. Remember, while components may offer many advantages, it's essential to use them appropriately. They can be ideal for objects that have repeating or modular characteristics required frequent editing. By understanding these distinctions, you can choose the most suitable option for your project. Now it's your turn to experiment and create a staircase with multiple stairs using open source stairs, group stairs, and component stairs. You can also try making one of the stairs unique and see how they behave once to make changes to it. See you in the next video. 31. Creating Walls & Cut Outs: Hi guys. Now that we have a good understanding of how sketch up constructs its three D models using surfaces and edges, let's move on to building the three D walls based on our created floor plan. In this process, I usually prefer to work with a separate file for the three D visualization, keeping it separate from my two D spatial plan. The easiest way is to simply copy the two D file and rename it into three D visualization. However, this approach is entirely up to you and your personal preference. I find by keeping the floor plan and the two D model separate, I can maintain a cleaner and more organized workflow. Since I may want to include additional scenes or layers for certain purposes that might interfere. We will talk about scenes later close to the end of the course. For now, if you feel like just go ahead and make a copy of your two D floor plan that you have already drawn and rename it. Or just use the three D framework file, which is included in the module three Sip folder. As you can see here, I have built up two different frameworks. They look the same at the first glance, but they have a difference. Let's turn off the spatial planning layer for now as we don't need it for some time. In the past videos, you have basically seen two different approaches, framework. One should be the result that you have gotten. Meaning you have created walls and windows together, and then you started grouping the windows. The space underneath will be cut out from the floor and wall surface. This is usually the way I built up spatial plants and use them later for three D. Now what I also see many times from other designers is they create the walls first and then they group them and then they create the windows And group them. You may be more flexible in moving around windows, but other than that, I don't see the benefit from doing it this way. Let's start building our walls from this drawn floor plan and see the benefits and disadvantages. Before we start building our walls, I want you to open the PDF plans from the module one zip file. We can see that our internal ceiling height is 2,700 millimeters, or 106.3 ". Let's go back to the framework file. Since this file is a copy of my special plan, I can now simply use this framework I have created to build up my walls. Let's go inside my walls and floor group that we have created and double click to go inside. Then I simply select the wall surface and press P for the push pull tool. We know our ceiling hat and simply type in the hat we need and enter. We can then double click on the remaining walls as sketch up saves the last hat that we have used when using the push pull tool. If it doesn't work for some reason, just type it in again or use the walls that you have already built as a guide by hovering over the endpoint. Sometimes they might occur some straight lines like this. Depending on if you have used lines or rectangle tools, when you build this structure, we can just delete the lines to keep it clean. We now have our wall frame by escape. We can leave the group just to see the difference. We will do the same for framework to, you can immediately see the difference in the build. We don't have any door or window cutouts in framework two. Let's build a cut out for a full height window and one which has a wall beneath to see how we would approach this. I chose window and window J for this example. Let's start with window. Depending on if your window goes literally to the edge of the ceiling, or if it has some wall above, you can either keep it open like this if it goes full ceiling height. Or in this case, you can see that we only have a window height of 2,500 millimeters or 98.43 ". We can now use guides to mark this, or we simply copy the bottom line with a locked blue axis and place it as its height. I usually copy the lines as I won't need to draw a line when using guides, but both approaches work, then you simply the wall and use the interferencing endpoint like this. If the lines bother you, you can just remove them. Let's do the same for framework number two. If we want, we could turn on x ray mode to see better where our window is placed. We could now create guides for our cut out and then use the rectangle tool. Now we can push out the newly created cut out and hover over an endpoint. Again, It can happen that by accident maybe you go a little too far and then your wall is extruded. This case, just go back and try it again until you selected the correct endpoint and you can see through your wall. I find it easier to work with frame work number one, as I already have my cutouts and I just need to add the walls I need above or below the window. But you can do it both ways. Creating window J is very similar. Let's check the measurements. Height under the window is 1,090 millimeters, or 42.92 ". Window height is 500 millimeters. Height above the window is 1,110 millimeters, or 43.69 ". Rechecking. Then I just push, pull out the walls and that's done. Let's do it for the other window in framework number two. Now you can see, I forgot to do it within the same group. It can happen, sometimes if you see that nothing is happening, you cannot pull out or in that wall, it means that you are not in the group. I simply now can triple click on all my surfaces and edges that I created and then press command X or control X to cut it out. Then obviously I go inside my group and use it based in place. Now I can just push, pull it out. Again, both approaches work. But I do prefer to work in framework one, since I already see where my window is. This way I don't forget a window or cut out. That's it. It's really that simple. This way you can pull out in and in whatever you need. Okay guys, now it's your turn to finish this framework and create all cut outs for the windows and doors. It doesn't matter if you prefer to work with framework one or framework two. See on the next video. 32. Creating Arched Openings: Hey everyone. Now that you have completed your framework, let's focus on creating the arched openings. To begin with, you can consider placing your three D walls on a new layer named three D walls. If you're working on the same file as your two D spatial plan. This allows you to easily turn off the three D walls layer if you need it. However, keep in mind that working with too many layers can sometimes lead to confusion. Remember that even a single line can end up on a different layer if you forget to click on the pencil when making changes within the layer causing you to draw on a separate layer. In such cases, you will have to reassign the line or use the Entity Info option. Overall, I recommend avoiding overcomplicating things with layers unless you are working on a large file with multiple floors. Ultimately, it's your decision what you choose to place on different layers. Now let's move on to creating the arched openings based on our ten springs floor plan. I prefer starting outside the wall group to maintain flexibility and moving the arch. As you know within my group, everything will stick together. We have previously set the openings for the doors at the height of 2,200 millimeters or 86.61 ". Let's create a guide for this. I will then select the two point Arc tool and increase the number of sites. Remember the more sites you have, the rounder your arch will be. However, avoid going overboard as more sides result in increased information that sketch up needs to process, potentially impacting your performance. Let's choose 40. In our example, I'll click on the left and right points. Then I move my mouse along the locked blue axis upwards. Here I will choose the bulge value, which represents the distance from the bottom to the top of the arch. I can now freely move this line to the desired hate, aligning it with our guide. Remember to lock the axis with the up arrow key to ensure the line moves down correctly and doesn't shift to the side or to the end. Once the height is set, I will complete the upper surface by adding a rectangle shape around it. Be careful to select the correct end points. Afterwards, I can remove the bottom line. I only have the upper surface. This is what I need to finalize my arch. I triple click to select all connected surfaces and edges of the shape, and press command or control X to cut it out. Then I click inside my wall group and paste it in place. The only thing that's left to do is out my surface and remove any excessive lines. Note that the bottom line should not be removed as it holds the arch together. If you find the bottom line distracting, you can click right on it and select height, Should you want to view the line again, you can go to Edit Unhide. All you need to be inside the group to use this function as if you try to unhide it outside the group. Nothing happens as this information is stored inside the group. Finally, let's move on to the other arched opening. This opening is wider than the previous one. The same bulge value may not yield the desired results. You may need to increase the bulge slightly. Just make sure you stay within the opening and don't extend beyond it. Repeat the same steps as before. Create a rectangle. Remove the bottom line, triple click to select all connecting surfaces and edges. Cut it out and paste it inside the wall group. Finally, use the push pull tool to extrude the shape and clean up any excessive lines for a neat appearance. There are multiple ways to create an arch, or any shape that you want. This is just my preferred method for achieving clean and round arches. Feel free to experiment with sketch up drawing tools to create the surface you want and just pull it out. Now it's your turn to create those arched openings within your framework. File. See you in the next lesson. 33. Creating Windows & Applying Material: Hi guys. In this video, we will be diving into the process of building windows and applying textures to the glass pane. We will focus on window G for now. To maintain consistency throughout the project, I have chosen a frame thickness of 50 millimeters, or 1.97 ". However, feel free to adjust this measurement according to your preferences. Keep in mind that when it comes to representing windows in general sense, exact measurements aren't always necessary. As long as the overal appearance conveyed the presence of a window, you can stick with your standard measurements. Let's get started by constructing the outside frame before moving on to the rest of the window. We could potentially use the suprase we got from the two D special plan, but this is not 100% necessary. You could simply suggest use this as your reference and create another rectangle outside of the group. In this example, I will use the existing surface we have from this symbol, we double click into the group and select the outside frame surface. Then we use our push pull tool and hover over the endpoint and release. Then I select my left window frame from left to right, as this will only select everything that is included in my selection. If I select from right to left, it also selects the bottom lines, which I don't want. Then I group this part and copy this object to the right side as it is identical. I could use my flip tool to flip it, or if you work on older sketch of versions, you can use the right click and flip it in the correct axis. Then I copy this frame again, move it to the middle. And use my move rotation function to move it horizontally. I place one corner next to the left frame. And since it's a rectangle shape, I can easily use my scale tool to make it shorter. Make sure to select the middle point so it doesn't scale it midpoint. And use again the snapping function to one of the corners. Lastly, I copy this again to the top and do it the same way. Note that we are still working in the window G group that we have created back when we created the spatial plan. Now let's have a look at some more details about this window. It is horizontally divided with one plane fixed window and one louver window. It has a horizontal division. Let's see where it is. The plane window without the frame is 1,750 millimeters, or 68.91 " high. Let's place the guide There is always make it a habit to lock your axis as it can easily happen that you will create a guide somewhere else. Then I select the bottom left point of my frame and copy it to the end of the line. I reject the remaining height, It's 600 millimeters or 23.61 ", so that's correct. What I also could have done is selecting the bottom left corner and move it up. But I would have to do some math here and add my frame height, it is 1,800 millimeters. I like to trust the guides as some mistakes can easily happen there. Now that I have my frame, let's create a basic glass pane by using the rectangle shape. Since I group my frame, I don't have any issues with this surface sticking to the frame. Now comes the fun part. We click B for bucket or select the bucket tool from the left tool bar. You can see that immediately another window appears. Or if you work on the windows, it automatically opens up. This window will always appear if you click on the B shortcut, which is very useful anytime you close the window. Don't worry, it will, can easily come back. Once you click B, you can also find it on Windows. Materials, Colors, or materials is literally the same thing. It might look different if you work on a PC, but still your window will open automatically. You have some options to choose from. For now, click on the right brick or select it from your selection. If you work on Windows, this will open your texture palettes. There are many materials to choose from. For now, I don't want to overcomplicate things for you as we will discuss materials in full detail in some other videos. Now just select glass and mirrors and choose the translucent glass gray. You can see that it's selected as it will appear on the bottom left corner. Go back to your window and simply click on the surface. Let's triple click now and create a group. Let's go back inside the glass group. Remember we are now inside a group of a group. If you can select a single surface, it means you are in the correct group. We select at the panel, push, pull it out. Let's say we make the glass 5 millimeters thick or any decided glass thickness that you would prefer. Then I leave my glass group. I'm back to my general window group. Now I realized that my tint is a little too dark, since now two translucent fronts merge together. Optically, I use my B for bucket. I can just change the opacity of the glass material. Now when I try to add the material to my glass panel, you see that nothing happens as I really need to go inside my group again until I can select my surface instead of having to colerate each surface by itself. There's an easy trick. If you press the shift key, you can see three little squares appearing. This means that Sketch Up will apply the whole material on all surfaces within this group. We can then leave the group and copy this panel again. If we would like to have a double glass window front. You don't have to work with two panels. If you just need one panel, that's fine too. It's up to you on how you construct your windows. I choose this only for you to see some more features. I didn't specify the lure panel had. But let's say it's 100 millimeters or 3.94 " high. I could create it from scratch using my rectangle tool in the same way. But let's copy the panel we already have as we won't need to pull it out and then apply the same material again, we just need to adjust its head. We could use the scale tool to move it down a bit and use a guide to tell us where our 100 millimeters, or 3.9 ", is. Then we push, pull it down. Now as we have a repeating panel here, we could make use of components. Let's make a component out of this panel and call it lure panel, window G. There's one important thing to mention here. If we start making clones from it and start rotating its opening, you will see that it only applies to this specific geometry. While it works, changing the surface rotation doesn't work, it's merely because Sketchup need to know the direction that is applied to it within its component. Right now you rotate the outside shape. In order to be able to rotate all clones simultaneously, you need to create something that sketch up can work with. Before we copy those component panels, we have to go inside our component, create a group within its environment, leave the component and then start copying the panels. Now, if I want to rotate my component, I have to go inside my component. Since it's a group, nothing sticks together here. As otherwise, all the components will be lined up together and they merge together. We have to group them this way. We can just use the rotation tool, All of my clones simultaneously move. You could obviously work with grouped objects merely and rotate them one by one. But again, it's the flexibility that components give you in case you need to change something and also the storage, as this panel is only saved once, which will improve my sketch up performance. Okay guys, feel free to watch the next full video where I create all of the remaining windows step by step, you can practice creating as many windows as you like until you feel confident. If you need to reject something, you can always have the option to open the completed frame work file. Okay guys, see you. 34. Full Video Creating Windows: Hi guys. On this video, I'm basically going to show you a quick time lapse video of how I created all the windows in the Eaton Springs house. Yeah. The first thing I did is copied the window here. You can basically move the outside frame and start adjusting single groups or single frames that you can use based to the specific size. You can also adjust the upper and lower window frame to make it fit to the actual measurements. Whatever you can copy, try to copy to save yourself time. Now what's left to do is to adjust the bottom size. Copy it to the top. Here we have the adjusted frame already. Now we can just adjust the panel sizes. Since this one are components from the previous video, we need to make them unique in order to adjust them. As otherwise we would be also adjusting window G. I'm just going to rename it this, copy it to the bottom. Remove the other panels and then adjust my size. And now we can use the multiple copy function with the star. Here. We have the adjusted window. Just move it back here in the front. Now let's create window H. This is split. We have a door on the left and a window panel on the right side. I'm going to leave out the door for now and just create window H, create a frame. Copy the frame to the side. So whatever you can make use of, just try to copy. And it's always important to lock the axis to help you with the location. Be careful when scaling always scale from the middle point. Now let me group the frames toggle inside. Now we can create our window panel. And then we can fill the panel with the transparent gray extruded a bit and group it. Now make use of the interferencing tool, basically snapping onto the point that you have close by. Okay, now window should be fairly easy. Can just copy parts of another window. Place it with control here. The same again. Now, window is a little special because it is basically one big window, but it has a division in the middle. That's why I define the midpoint and place the middle panel Yeah. In the middle area, to be able to create one single window which has two panels, obviously, you have to define or decide yourself if it's going to be faster to make use of the windows that you have or create the window from scratch. But in most cases, it's better to copy what you have already and just adjust it. Now the same again, we need to make this panel unique as otherwise we would be adjusting the other window from which we have copied it, just a property name. If for some reason you are not so sure if you have basically adjusted that panel, you can always open the entity in full where you can see under the definition which kind of component that is. Then, you know, okay, we need to delete those. Just make copies of this panel. Let me turn on X ray to see if there are any hidden. Then just select the panels and it just decides now we can copy everything but the middle part and the outside. And copy it again. That's it. If we want to change the direction of the openings, we can do so by just selecting one of the component panels. And since they are all copied, we can simultaneously open the window if we want to. Let's copy this window to window. Since very similar, I don't have to adjust much there as you can see. Basically it's always the same process. If by now you know how to create those windows, just feel free to skip. One additional point I'd like to emphasize is that you're not limited to working exclusively with components. It's entirely feasible to construct these windows using straightforward groups. My intention was simply to illustrate the purpose of components and highlight instances where they prove beneficial. Now I will just continue creating the windows, the process remains the same. You're welcome to stay along or start practicing creating your own windows. See you in the next class. 35. Creating Internal Doors: Hi guys. In today's class, we will create the internal doors for our Eden Springs project. To start with, let's create the outside frame for our doors by creating a rectangle over the empty space. And use our offset tool to offset our frame by 50 millimeters, or 1.97 ". Then we move the bottom line down as we won't need it. We remove the inside of our frame. We pull out the frame to the correct thickness. Usually frame stick to out a bit, therefore we need to push, pull it out to your desired measure. In this example, I choose 25 millimeters, or about 1 ", but the other side as well. Then I select everything by triple clicking and create a group. As you can see, I have selected all surfaces and edges, and nothing is left behind. Let's now create the door. We are drawing another rectangle and push, pulling it to a thickness of about 40 millimeters, or 1.57 ", but it's up to you if you prefer a thicker door, then I group my door and I can move it more inside as well. To create my door handle, I measure a hat that is about 1,080 millimeters, or 42.52 ", which is usually the standard had in which door handles are placed. You can obviously adjust that as you prefer. Then the midpoint of my handle is located approximately 80 millimeters, or 3.15 ", from the edge of my door. Let's create the handle now. You don't have to use the same measurement. Feel free to adjust it or find some door handles within sketch up warehouse to download and place inside. You can see that I always try to group the objects separately from each other. This way I can be flexible in moving them around. It helps to lock the axis when moving too. Make it a habit to toggle between groups by clicking inside and using the escape key to leave the group. You can be very creative when it comes to creating shapes. Finally, we can group our handle to be able to move all three objects to the other side of the door. Use the flip tool to flip it correctly. It may take some adjustments until you have the selected correct flip axis. Always use endpoints as your reference. Now we can group the whole door. Remember, you now have groups within groups. We could also open up our door. Finally, we create another main group and create a component. Since the new component is saved within our file, we can easily click on it and use it for the rest of our doors as they have the same size. This is what I meant in the previous videos. That sketch up now only has to save one component for the doors instead of three identical geometries. Now that they are components, I can easily adjust all doors at the same time. How about we change the color of our handles into black? Don't forget to go inside each single group and by escape, you leave the group. Again, let's toggle inside the group. Each part I want to colerate, leave the group, and so on. As you can see, all handles have been adjusted. This can save time. If you prefer to work with tags, feel free to create the necessary layers and use the tagging tool to place them on the correct layer. You can always turn the layers off for easier workflow. Okay guys, p, f to recreate this internal door, create a component and place them three times within our house. In the next video, I will show you on how you can work with doors from the warehouse and make them work for you. See you. 36. Using SketchUp Warehouse Doors: Hi guys. Before I show you on how to make use of the sketch up warehouse, let's create a frame for the front door in the same way we have done for our internal doors. Again, I always like to choose the consistent frame thickness, as usually doors are only for visual purposes. If you need to create a custom made door, which will be produced by the carpenter later on, obviously you need to adjust the frame thickness regarding to the standards of your carpenter. Okay, let's now copy the finished frame with command C format or control C for PC. I have already created another window. As you know, I like to use another file to not mess up with my original file when working with the sketch up warehouse. You can also see that I already downloaded a couple of doors to choose from and placed them in a row. Then I paste my copied frame with command V or control V. Let's use the first door and have a look at how this was constructed by toggling inside the groups. It obviously is a component. As you can see, it appears under components. Usually, I never use the frame of the files I get from the warehouse as again, I like to use a consistent frame size to make things easier. You could use command or control X to cut it out or just copy it. Once pasted, I can combine it with my door frame and use the scale tool to adjust its width and height. If you don't mind the distortion here, that's fine, as doors are just a visual add on and usually don't have to be exact. I would like to show you on how to select a foreign material when opening my colors using my B for bucket. There is a little pad below. If you select this pad, it selects all colors you can see within your monitor. But this is not what we want. We want to select the material by simply holding down command. Using your bucket tool, you can see that a slight different result will appear. You now chose the material and not the pixel color, even though it's also a p pat, it's still a different selection. We can now select our frame and colorate it with the chosen texture. What's important to mention is if you open your components list, you can find all components that you have downloaded from the warehouse in this file. Here's the thing. If you remove the object, the component still remains within your file, which can really slow down your performance. Therefore, we could use the button perch unused, then it will be gone forever. Now you know why I would like to work in a separate file. Imagine all the amount of components you may save in your file, and every time you try out another three D file, you would have to always click purge unused. That can be a little annoying. Okay, now my door was originally copied from a component, right? It still has the connection to the original component as it's a clone. To remove this connection, if you would like to, you simply click right Explode. Then we need to also remove the original old component. Let's see if it worked. By removing unused components, it's still there. We might have to do it again somehow. There's still a connection. Now, I do have an open source for my door, but that's okay. I can just regroup it again by triple click. Let's see if it works now. Or control it still has some connection. Let's remove the whole component altogether. As long as your object doesn't disappear, it means that the connection is gone. Now what's left to do is adjusting the backside of the door as it doesn't have the handle or the same profile is the front. I could copy the door and place it behind. If it's just to visualize the door, that's fine. We could, of course, also adjust its thickness and combine them together. Then we can copy the handle with a locked axis to the other side. We group the whole thing and combine it with a frame to practice another time. Let's create a unique component from this door. We then copy it and paste it into our three D file. As you can see now it appears as a new component. We could now change the color again. Sometimes it may not colerate all surfaces for some reason. Always recheck if you have colerated all the surfaces. Okay guys, this is how you could use objects from the warehouse and make them work for you to save some time. You're always free to create your own objects. Everything that is within sketch up warehouse can be used for any projects. As long as you don't share the files with anyone else because I can't share this door with you. Feel free to use another door from the warehouse or watch the next video where we will create our own Eden Springs front door. See you there. 37. Creating The Eden Springs Door: Hi everyone. Let's create our ten Spring store together. We will begin by creating a new file. I have already designed my frame and applied the color of my choice to it. If you prefer, you can create the frame in your main file and then copy it into the new one, or simply work in your existing file. The choice is to start, let's create a rectangle and pull it out to approximately 100 millimeters, or about 4 ". This will be your door thickness. However, feel free to select a different door thickness that suits your preference. Once you have created the door, make sure all surfaces and edges are selected within the grouping. If there's any issues, don't worry, you can undo with command or control and try it again. Next, let's go inside the group and copy the color from the frame by holding down the command. Alternatively, you can select a different color from the color charts or use the spectrum of colors available adjusting their darkness as desired. Now let's add the vertical stripes resembling VJ panels. You can choose the number of stripes you would like. For this example, I made ten vertical stripes. Now let's do some quick math. If my door is 820 millimeters, which equals 32.28 " wide, each slim break between two panels is 10 millimeters, 0.39 " wide. With nine breaks total, the deduction would be 90 millimeters, or 3.51 ". This leaves me with 730 millimeters, or 28.77 ", which I then divide by the number of panels I would like to have in this example, Ten, Each panel would be approximately 73 millimeters, or 2.88 " wide. Now let's create the panels, copy the line, and move it to the calculated distance. Duplicate the line to mark the slim lines in between. After that, we select the surface and copy it multiple times. Please consider the panels with and the slim line with when moving it. If you prefer, use guides to assist you in the process. Select the vertical panel surfaces by holding down the shift button and copy them to the back side of the door. You may need to reverse the faces if necessary. Now the limb lines to give them a more three D shape. In this example them for about 10 millimeters which equals 0.39 ". This should be efficient by double clicking. You can apply the same setting to the rest of this side and the other side as well. Congratulations, you have created a unique door. Let's move on to designing the half moon door handle. This handle is quite large, measuring 300 millimeters, which equals 11.8 ". It's helpful to start building from the ground up and visualize ultra transition from two D to three D. Start by creating a circle with the radius half, the decided handle size. Divide the circle in half using the line tool and remove the unnecessary half. Now pull it to the thickness you prefer. I chose 25 millimeters or 0.98 ". Create another line with the same thickness inside the circle, ensuring it divides the surfaces correctly. Then push, pull this part out by let's say 25 millimeters or 0.98 " as well. Finally, group the entire handle, rotate it to the correct position and place it on top of the door. For accurate placement, Consider that the center of the door handles is usually positioned about 1,080 millimeters, or 42.52 ", from the ground. Create a guide at this height, then select the midpoint of the handle and move it up. When it comes to the distance from the edge, a position of approximately 45 millimeters, or 1.77 ", Should work fine for this example door. Now let's create the handwritten letters to make it super fancy and insta worthy. But of course, I want to show you how to create extruded text mainly. Click on the Text tool and open the funk section. We will need it in just a second. Choose how wide you want your text to stick out then. I'm not sure if this is a sketch up 2023 bog. But for some reason, right and center alignment are exchanged. I write my text, choose my fong hate and then you need to press Enter in order for it to apply. After that I can select the fong of my choice. Then we place the text on our door. As you can see, text always comes as a component. If you don't want that, simply explode the file, remove unused components, and regroup it again. There you have it. A fancy extruded text on your door, looking great. Finally, let's group all the objects that belong to the door together and place it inside the door frame. If you forgot the handle on the back side, no worries. Just click inside the group and copy it to the other side. Be sure to use your arrows to lock the axis for precise movement. Feel free to group objects or areas separately to avoid interference. As you find useful, we could make a component from the store if we wanted. For instance, we would like to share this file with others in the sketch up warehouse. We could include our names or our website. I will cover this in the next video. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial on creating your own unique door. You can either create the Eden Springs store, as we did in this video, or challenge yourself by finding an inspirational image and recreating it using all the tools we have covered so far. See you in the next video. 38. Upload Files to the SketchUp Warehouse: Hi guys. In the previous lesson, we successfully created our Eden Spring Store. Now I would like to show you a quick and easy way to upload any files you created to the sketch up warehouse. This will allow you to share your work with other designers and contribute to the growth of the sketch up community. To begin, it's a good practice to create a clean new file and include only the object you want to share. This ensures that when others download your file, they won't receive any unnecessary baggage. To upload your object, simply write click on it and select Three D Warehouse. Then click on Share Component. This action will automatically open the sketch up warehouse. Here you can fill in details such as the title, A Description, and you can choose a category that fits best to your object. There are several categories to choose from. Just browse through to find the most suitable one. For this example, I choose interior design and residential. If you want your model to remain private, only accessible to you, you can enable the private mode before uploading. This way, the file will be saved in the warehouse and you will have access to it, freeing up space on your computer. Once you're ready to launch, simply click Upload. The rendering process may take a few minutes, but once it's done, you will see a preview of your model. And it will be available on your public page under Models. To find your uploaded file, return to the main page of the sketch up warehouse and use the search function. For example, type in Eden Springs or Valica Homes. And then click under Models. Here you can find all the files I have uploaded so far. You can now download them directly into your project. Keep in mind that the file format, millimeters or inches, doesn't matter when downloading from the sketch up warehouse as sketch up will automatically adjust the file to your chosen template. Sharing your creations is essential for supporting and enhancing the sketch up experience for everyone. By contributing unique objects, textures, or other resources. We can all benefit from each other's work and foster a sense of cooperation within the community. Let's continue embracing the spirit of sharing and make the most of the sketch up platform together. Okay guys, see on the next video. 39. ✨ ✨ MODULE 4 (Materials & Textures) ✨ ✨ : Hi guys, welcome to module four. In this module, we will learn how to make use of textures, how to apply textures, how to adjust them, and how to create your own seamless textures. So let's have a look. 40. Applying Materials correctly & keeping a clean File: Hi everyone. Acquiring the knowledge of effectively implementing materials and textures is essential for giving your sketch up model a vibrant and realistic appearance. In this video, we will explore the process of applying textures from the built in material library of sketch up into your model. I will show you how you can purge unused colors to keep a good file performance. The first thing I would like to mention is that you always have to make sure to apply your material or texture inside of the object. Let's quickly see what I mean by that. I have placed three bookshelves in here. The first is a basic group, the second is a component, and the third is just a copy of this component. Now if I click on my paint bucket using my B, the colors will open. In the previous model, we have started to talk about materials and how to apply them. I mentioned that it's always best to toggle inside the groups to apply textures. If you have a grouped object and simply want to colerate all surfaces and edges, you actually don't have to go inside the group. It could work without going or toggling inside the group as well. Let's choose a wooden texture from the library and apply it to my group bookcase without actually going inside. You see that works too. It's a little different if you work with a component. If I was to colerate my whole component bookcase, you will notice that if I don't go inside my component, the texture will only apply to this specific outside group. It behaves quite similar. If you remember the Windows video we have seen when we did the panels, you actually have to go inside the component in order for it to apply certain changes to its clones as well. Now if I toggle inside my component and hold down the shift key in order to apply my texture to all materials, you can see the difference. This is important to know that in case you work with components. And sometimes it's not always immediately clear. If I download three D models from the sketch up warehouse, if it's just a group or a component, I usually make it a habit to always go inside my object no matter if it's a group or a component to colerate it this way, I make sure in case I have copies of a component that they have been colerated as well. Now let's talk about performance real quick. Every time you apply a texture to your object, it will be automatically saved within your model. You can view those saved materials and textures that are in your model By selecting colors in model on the windows, you can simply select it from the top. On a Mac, you have to click on the Little House icon in order to get there. Now you will find also the materials we have applied to our bookcase. Most of the others are from Heather, The figure that appears once you create a new file and sketch up. If I remove Heather, you see that the colors still remain. Sometimes too many colors that are saved can slow down your model as well. You may want to clean that up once in a while. Similar to the component, you can purge unused materials only that is not accessible within the window. You have to toggle and click on Window Model Info and select Statistics There. You can see that your materials are listed here as well. If you click on Perch Unused, you see that the colors that have been saved for Heather are gone as well. It also cleans the unused components. At this point, I recommend doing that before you stop working on your project. As a habit as the more you collect of unnecessary components and materials, the slower your file will get with time. If you haven't done the cleaning in some weeks and you try to clean your sketch up, it might crash depending on the performance of your computer. Just make it a habit and do it once before you stop working on your project just to have a clean end. The next video, I will show you how you can scale materials. See you there. 41. Scale & edit materials: In the previous video, we have used some wooden texture from the sketch up built in materials. I also mentioned that once you apply material, it will be saved under the colors and model section. Now if you have many colors in one file and have a hard time finding it as the colors and textures are appearing within this window. You can always use your eye dropper function when using your bucket tool. This way you can select the material you want to edit and it will appear selected within this window. Remember, it's not the same pad as in the color window. You can observe how the material selection changes as I use the Pet tool. Now let's modify the gray material in this wooden texture. On a Mac, you will need to double click on the icon to open the added options. While on the Mac there is an additional tub labeled Added Accessing. The added mode allows you to adjust the scale appearance. I always keep the chain active to prevent texture distortion. Let's reduce its size now by entering a lower value and pressing Enter. We will also adjust the other materials in the same manner to exit the edit mode. Simply close the tab. Now let's explore other options in the added mode. For instance, if we are working with Shear curtains, changing the opacity could prove useful by clicking on the color wheel. While still in added mode, we can modify the color while preserving the texture. Additionally, we can find tune the darkness using the color sliders to revert to original color. Let's reset it and opt for the HSB slider. Adjusting the saturation slightly ml, yield a smoother color effect. Similarly like the color wheel, the HSB slider allows for supple adjustments to the U as well. The added mode offers extensive opportunities to tailor the material properties according to your preferences while retaining the actual texture. This versatility adds a wonderful dimension to the design process. What is essential to note here is that when you modify the properties of a texture within this specific model, it only applies to that particular instance. If you revert to the built in materials from sketch up and reselect the same material we have chosen at the beginning, you will find that it retains its original properties. This approach allows you to have a backup of the main texture and it's advisable to primarily change the texture under the in model section to avoid altering the original textures. Let's explore further possibilities. If you wish to change the position of a texture on a specific surface, you can navigate inside the group until you can select the surface itself. Then click right until you see the texture position option. If the option is not visible, try selecting the material from the colors in modal section and use the bucket tool again. To apply it to the surface. Press the space part to activate the select tool, and then right click again. The option should appear. Now this might be a possible bock and sketch up. Now you will notice four different icons. The red one is primarily used to position specific visible areas on the surface. Here, it doesn't matter whether you click on the red icon or anywhere else and try to move the position of your surface. The green icon is for adjusting the scale of this particular surface texture only. It's a little different from changing the scale globally in the edit mode, as this scale will only apply to this specific chosen texture or surface. The blue and yellow icons are for distorting the texture, which I don't often use, but they might be helpful for your specific needs for rotating a texture, it's safer to write, click and use the rotate function rather than using the green icon as it may unintentionally change the scale as well to revert to the previous state, right click and choose reset. Or if you're happy with your changes, simply click Done. Now if you have two edges that merge together in one and you want your grain to go all over the object, there's a simple trick. Simply select the adjusted texture we just position using the bucket, then you just colerate the entire object. This way the grain will flow consistently around the object without the need to adjust each surface separately. Keep in mind that if you make global changes to the scale, after adjusting your pattern, the scale will change again. Once you make subsequent modifications, It is advisable to first choose the textures scale and then adjust the position of the texture if necessary. In the next video, we will explore how to find more textures from the sketch of warehouse. See you there. 42. Using Materials from the SketchUp Warehouse: In today's class, we will explore how to obtain textures from the sketch up warehouse. The first method I would like to demonstrate is quite simple. Let's begin by retrieving a model from the warehouse. Remember to keep your file clean. It's advisable to download any content into a new file. This way you can avoid unnecessary colors and components being saved in your current model, which you don't need. When you access the warehouse, you can search for any specific texture by name. By the way, I just noticed that sketch up has updated the three D warehouse. Making the model preview looks much better. For example, let's search for birch plywood. Once you find a texture a model or a texture watch that you would like, download it into your new file. Notice that all the new materials from this model will now appear in your workspace. In this case, we have two different textures, one for the site and another for the top. Now let's use the classic trick involving the paint bucket and the piped function. We will sample the main material until it appears in our color window. Then we will switch to our original file and easily apply the new material to the bookshelf. The new material is now automatically added into your model as well. From here, we can adjust the scale or fine tune the textures as demonstrated in my previous videos. Let's also sample the sides of the bookshelf and apply the texture to these surfaces. If the texture looks a bit small, we can increase its scale. Additionally, we can create lines between the surfaces to separate them, then we can rotate the texture vertically on one of the sites. We will then sample that modified texture and apply it to the other side. This method illustrates how to obtain a texture from the warehouse and apply it to your three D models by sampling a material from any object. Now let's quickly reset the model to show you a different approach. Returning to the previously downloaded model, suppose you want to extract just the material without downloading the entire three D object. Click on the actual model, not the download button, and you will find a wealth of information including the material count. From there, you can directly download any material you desire in your file. It will immediately become available as a new texture in your model. Once you apply it this way, you can use this material without actually having to download the entire model for sampling. With the vast area of models available in the warehouse, you will surely find suitable materials to work with. If you're not satisfied with how particular material looks in your three D model, feel free to replace it with another material from the warehouse. Now it's your turn to try out both methods. Selecting a material or object from the warehouse and downloading the material straight without having to actually download the three D model. 43. Learn and use seamless materials in SketchUp: In this video, I'll show you how to import external materials or so called seamless texture. But before we actually start, you need to understand what I mean if I say seamless. Here's an example of a texture that is not seamless. One that actually is a texture that is not seamless will most likely look like this. You can see that the pattern doesn't repeat properly. The reason for this is that this material has not been correctly produced or cropped in a way that the edges repeat seamlessly. Now let's view the seamless texture. You can see that once I expand my rectangle, it automatically adds the material in a super seamless way. How is that possible? Let's have a look at the J Pac file. This texture originates from imagine a seamless texture consists of this one cropped view, which then will be repeated on all sides. Meaning this specific image will be placed on top, on the left, on the right, and on the bottom. Now you see that the bottom planks are cut in half is because it will be placed by sketch up at the top. It combines into one full plank. The sides are cut in a way that they will complete the plank once the other side has been placed as well. This is how seamless textures work. If you notice your material or textures you got from the sketch up warehouse is not looking correctly, Most likely it has not been a seamless texture. Someone may have used an image of a material and cut it in a way it doesn't complete the planks. Obviously, different shaded areas can also have an impact to the outcome of a texture. That is why usually seamless textures have a very similar brightness overall and you usually don't have strong contrasting areas like in here. Let's have a look at some websites where you could get seamless textures. There are plenty more to find for sure. Please note that not all websites may be free or not all textures can actually be used for commercial purposes. Make sure to always check the license agreement before using any texture or material. What helps is to look out for PD, public domain licenses or CCO, Creative Commons CCO license materials. All textures. I'm not doing any advertising for showing these websites. I simply provide you with some resources. It is your responsibility to check the license agreements. I would never recommend to just use an image from Google and try to create a texture from that. As usually those images are not free to use or have some copyright obligations. I would rather stick to paid off resources that are actually marked as public or as a CCO. Let's try now to download a seamless texture from Poly Haven, which I know has a CCO license, and let's import it into a sketch up. Let's find a suitable seamless floor material. You can download the four K version. This is more than enough when it comes to quality. Once downloaded, usually it comes with different other files as well. You won't need all of them. In fact, for all purpose, we only need the J pac or PNG file that showcase my material. The other files might be for further rendering programs. Let's go back to sketch up and create a new C angle. To bring the downloaded texture into my model, I select my surface and click file Import. This preview might look slightly different on the windows, but make sure to select all supported textures and select the option that you want to import this file as a texture and not as an image. Once it's loaded, the material will hover over your surface. You can select the end point and move your mouse up. You will notice that you can type in a value if you know the actual size of the material or just place it in a way it looks good. You can always adjust the scale afterwards. What you can see as well is that the material is now already created in my in model section. Sketch up has automatically mapped this one surface seamlessly. If you wish, you can modify this texture in a way that suits best for you. As we have seen in the previous videos. You could create a component from this material, upload it to the sketch up warehouse, and save it within your private mode just to make sure that you are the only one using it, as you may be able to use it, but may be restricted in actually sharing it this way. You can have this texture correctly scaled within your sketch up warehouse, and you can just extract the material from the warehouse for your next project instead of having to save this material on a computer. Okay guys, materials and textures can have a big difference when it comes to the quality of your projects. I recommend always opting for good quality materials in order to achieve a professional look within your sketch up model. See on the next video. 44. How to create a seamless texture with Canva: Hi guys, Now let's create our own textures. If you can't find a specific texture from the sketch of warehouse or any of the free websites that offer seamless textures, you may sometimes need to create your own textures. This is also usually the case if you would like to showcase a very specific tile within your project. Let's say for my project, my client chose a tile from Ti. Cloud officially said you can contact Ti Cloud and ask if you can use their image and for your project in order to show your clients how the tile will look. Usually, this shouldn't be a problem and most companies are happy if you work with their tiles, as most likely it generates an order from that. Okay, so let's say I got the permission to use this image from my project. If you don't have much experience in Photoshop, a good alternative is creating a texture using Canva. Canva must be known by most designers at this point. If you haven't heard from it, please visit their website. As it's amazing and really worth every penny. My client chose a tile that is 600 millimeters by 600 millimeters in inches. This would be around 2032 by 23.5 ". I create a new design with this custom size. What I can do now is simply load my image into this square. For this example, I would just choose a free image that I got from splash. I position it in a way that works for me and looks good. This is a 600 by 600 millimeter tile. If I would upload this in sketch up, I would be missing the grout. Obviously, that is why I create a texture using Canva where can create my grout in here. Let's choose the rectangle and remove the inside color to only have a border color, increase the border thickness. But remember that in sketch up this texture will be mad or placed on all sides. Again, the thicker border is it will double in thickness later as it will be placed. Again, let's try it with a very thin grout. I can create a grout color of my choice. Depending on the tile I'm placing, I can have a white grout or some darker one. I'm happy with this one now. Then I can export my tile as a J Pac file. Once downloaded, I create a rectangle in sketch up that has the exact size of my tile. Then I can just import my tile with a measure. I already know see how quickly we created a seamless texture for a specific tile I wanted. Now what I want to mention here is that you can see that I only have one variation of tile. If you don't mind the repetition of the texture, then this works. If you would like to go a step further, you could create a seamless texture with different variations in tiles. For this, I would need to create a few more variations in Canva, let's say I can retate my image a little bit, increase or decrease its size. You get the idea just to make them look a little different. Then I download all of them. So you could have three or four different variations. Now I need to import each of them into one square of my correct measurement. Then I placed them together as one bigger square. Now they are all four separate materials. In order to create one seamless texture from those, I simply select all of them by clicking right. Connect Surfaces. I'm being asked if I want to delete the interior edges. I click yes. Here we have a seamless texture made from four different variations, which I can now create again as a component and upload into my warehouse to use for further projects. It can be very creative when it comes to working with Canva. Canva Pro has many graphics and images which you can use and create tiles from. Just don't forget to use the tile ground, as otherwise you will end up not being able to see the tiles separated in Sketch up. Okay guys, see you in the next video. 45. How to create a seamless texture using SketchUp: We have talked about where to get seamless textures. How to create some basic seamless textures using Canva. What is missing is on how to create actual seamless texture merely using sketch up. Now this technique is for some more difficult tile patterns or wooden textures. But once you understand how this works, you can adopt this method to create great, seamless textures of materials that have a more difficult shape than just a rectangle. Let me show you how to create a wooden, seamless texture like this. Let's say you need to use a very specific flooring type for your project and you can't find a similar seamless texture in the warehouse or on any other websites. We can create our own seamless texture from any image. First, let's import any wooden texture as an image which is not seamless. In order for us to work with this, we need to explode the image by right click explode. Now it's already visible as a texture in our model section, but obviously when we start to expand this texture, you will see it is not seamless. I start by creating a bunch of single plants. First, let's start with one single plank that is not cut. I use the rectangle tool. Then I copy this plank, selecting its surface to the side. We need to create five more planks in order to create a seamless texture. I copy this plank five more times. Now let's make them all look different by moving its texture within sketch up. Maybe you need to reposition or even scale them a little bit, just make sure they look complete and are not cut on any sides. Okay, I have my five different planks, but right now they are all using the same image texture that we have. We need to make each of them individual in order to combine them later as one seamless texture. I go ahead and click right to make them a unique texture. As you can see, what it does at this point is it creates this single plank and it's also being saved in model section. Now we start to select the first three planks we want to lay next to each other. I would choose some that don't look too close to each other. To give this a nice a character to not get confused, which one I already picked, I start moving three of them to the sides. Now let's line them up. I start placing a copy of them next to each other. We are still working with an open source, so no groups or anything. So be careful when you play them as they are sticky. The next row needs to be placed, shifted as this is usually the case, how wooden floor is sitting, being laid. Let's grab one of the planks I haven't used and grab it by the midpoint to then copy it to the endpoint of my right plank. Then I need to take the exact same plank and place it on the left side as remember we want a seamless texture. This plank will be completed on the other side later. Then I feel the inside with the last two planks I haven't used. The next row could be any of the planks, it doesn't matter. What is more important is that for row number two and row number four, you use the same planks on the left and on the right side. As these are the one that we cut in half. You could go on and create more rows if you wish, but four are enough. As I find to finish this seamless texture, we need to create a line that cuts the planks that are sticking out. Then we delete the sticking out planks and start selecting all of the lines and surfaces that are left. Now comes the magic. We click right and choose combined textures. Here we have a seamless texture that appears in our in model section, which we can then upload to our private texture selection to use. Later you see how I expand my floor texture, it doesn't have these cut edges. Now you understand how seamless textures work and you could adapt this method to any texture you need to create. It can get sometimes a little tricky to see how you have to build up the seamless texture you want to start with actually trying to find a similar pattern. If that works to showcase to your client. I rarely have to create my own seamless texture. As usually, I find what I need using the sketch up warehouse or one of the websites that offer free sinless textures. But still, I didn't want to miss out on showing you this extended method. The next videos, we will start applying floor texture to our Eden Springs house. See you there. 46. Projecting Materials (Fix distorted material): Hi everyone. In this video I would like to show you a little trick when it comes to applying materials on rounded surfaces. I have built this three D bench. If you'd like to see how I build it, check out module six Time Labs, furniture and accessory built to see how I created it. What I would like to show you in this video is more about how to fix distorted material. Let's import a seamless book texture I created from the warehouse. Now my material is saved in my in modal section and I can apply it straight to my surface. The problem now is that I have parts where the texture looks distorted is because Sketchup not always knows where to apply the material correctly. If you don't mind this slight distortion, you could keep it as it is, but if you would like to fix those areas a little bit, there's a trick of projecting materials on a specific surface. Let's see how that works. First, I need a flat surface, like a square or rectangle, and apply the material I need to project. Now I need to move this flat shape in the same direction as the surface that I want to fix. In this case, it's going to be aligned with the green axis. Let's explode the square so I can access my material ser, then I select my surface. Click right texture, Add on Projected. We now told Sketch up that this texture is a projected texture. Let's sample it. There must be some background information that Sketch up now stores with this new sampling, we apply the new projected material on the surface that doesn't look correct. Tara, here we have the fixed material sketch up, mapped this surface now correctly. Sometimes it's just a try out reapply and see how sketch up is mapping it onto the surface. In the final step, we could adjust the scale a little bit to make it slightly smaller. Now let's compare it with a version that was not projected, where I simply applied my material to it. Do you see the quality difference? This really can improve your three D design outcome. Whenever you download something from the warehouse, just place the material on a flat surface. Move it to the correct side so it aligns with the surface. You want to adjust and start projecting it into the surface. I hope you enjoyed this video and find this tip useful. See in the next video. 47. Applying a floor texture to the Eden Springs Home: Since now you know how to find and create your own seamless textures. Let's use the seamless textures that I created for our Eden Springs home. We open our framework three D file from module three or your own file that you have created until this point. We will start by applying floor material. First, let's move any two D symbols that we might still have to the spatial planning tag. I select my taking tool and click on the correct layer. And start carefully taking those two D symbols. Just make sure to click on the correct object. As you may start moving objects that you don't want, you can always use command or control to go back. Since I use another file for my three D, I don't mind moving my two D symbols to another layer. I don't want to delete this layer yet, as I will use some of my two D symbols to build up in three D. Just hide the layer for now. In the end, make sure all symbols have been moved. Now it's a clean three D framework file. We can start preparing the areas to which we will apply our floor material. Let's hide the door and windows to only see our walls and floors. In this instance, I chose to not display the floor thickness. My floor is a flat surface and has no thickness. It depends how detailed you need your design to be or if you're working with a new build or a home that already has a floor, you may need to adjust this regarding to your project needs. For our Eton Springs home, I don't want to display the floor thickness, We keep it flat. Now, I need to decide from where to where I would like my floor to be laid. We make sure we work on the correct layer. I could create another layer and place the floor surface to it, but it's easier for me to just continue applying my floor texture within this layer it is currently on. You can always rename it too, just see what works for you. I personally don't like to work with too many layers as it can get super confusing with time. And it happens very fast that you start placing furniture or materials to a wrong layer. I placed my pencil on this layer. The material I would download will be placed inside this tag. Let's toggle within the floor group until I can select my surface in the office. My client would like to have a bubble carpet. I need to decide where it will be late. Let's say I want it only to be late until the beginning of the door. So I create a line to separate. If there was no line, I could create one. Let's supply the first floor material. You can choose any material you like from the warehouse or use the carpet material I have created. You can find it by typing in beach carpet. Eden Springs within the warehouse. Do not download the whole file as you will literally get a rectangle flat surface with a texture. You would then have to sample the texture using the pipette better. Just click on the checkered symbol which will only download the texture itself. This texture will then be placed under the in model materials. Now what's left to do is just applying the material to the floor surface, You could adjust the optics to your preference, as we have learned in the previous videos, changing the color, size, and so on. In the hallway, I would like to apply a nice checkered tile that I have created myself as well. Let's define the area. I will place my floor surface as, right now the whole floor is connected. Then I would like to create another inlay border, which will go around the area. I use the offset tool and create a border of about 150 millimeters, or 5.9 ", and adjust the lines as needed. Let's supply a terrazzo, seamless texture from the warehouse by searching terrazzo white Eden Springs. This will be an inlay border without grout. For the middle section, I'm going to apply a checkered floor. You can find it by searching checkered floor, Eden Springs. I apply it and I move my tiles a bit. When I created this tile, I made sure I created the tile in the final size. You could always create some guides to help you placing the correct size in case you downloaded a material and don't know its original size. Again, you don't have to use my textures. You can get creative and create your own, or choose any from the warehouse. I'm leaving out the bathrooms for now, as we will finish those in another video. For the main living, kitchen and laundry room, I'm choosing a concrete floor. You will find it by searching concrete, eaten springs for the bedroom and the closet area. I'm going to choose my checkered floor. Again, in certain instances, sketch up will automatically enclose an open area when it senses collected lines. Should this occur, you can easily revert that process by deleting the generated surface. To validate the accuracy of your adjustments, turn on all necessary layers like the windows and doors. Now it's your turn to apply material to those areas. In the upcoming video, we will delve into crafting baseboards. See you there. 48. ✨ ✨ MODULE 5 (3D FURNISHING) ✨ ✨ : Hi guys, and welcome to module five. This module is all about furniture, equipment, and fixtures. You will learn how to create baseboards, crown molding, or wainscoting, how to apply wallpaper or a paint color to our walls, And how to furnish the entire Eden Springs home. So let's get started. 49. Introduction to FF&E: When working for a client, it can happen that you are not only responsible for choosing their furniture, it can also include choosing fixtures and equipment. You may or may not have heard of an F and E. This is a short form for furniture, fixtures, and equipment. It's basically a list which designers prepare within a specific management program or just using Excel sheets or even Canva. Some also like to display the options using a sample board. This is especially useful for displaying the furniture. Some like to prepare the F and E during the design process. Some do it before or even after. It's totally up to you and your design process. What does this include? Obviously, a list or a sample board of the furniture it helps to have our two D spatial plan we created to see which size of furniture you can pick for each room. Remember when I told you that creating a spatial plan is super useful based on this two D spatial plan, I could create those sample boards displaying my furniture I'm going to place without even starting my three D. Rather than randomly searching for furniture, I like to find a real products first, which can be actually bought and create my three D design based on that. Then you can also see that I have displayed some of my fit and finishes in this sample board as well. In this example, only the floors just to see how they will harmonize with my furniture. If for your project, you also need to pick the fixtures and equipment. You could create a list like this. It includes trim and moldings. Claddings or wall panels, paint colors. The flooring fixtures for the kitchen, laundry room and bathrooms. It can also include you having to choose lighting. Those lists can get super long and detailed depending on the project. Are very helpful to really think of each room and which furniture, fixtures, and equipment you need to organize. The next videos, I will show you some specific fixtures and equipment and how to apply them. Let's get started. 50. Creating Baseboards, Crown Molding & Wainscoting: We already know how to apply flooring material. Let's now get to know how we can create baseboards, ground molding and wainscoting. Let's start with the EC one, the baseboards. In order to create a baseboard using a special tool called follow me tool, we need to have a two D profile and a line that the follow tool uses to create the baseboard. First, we create a new layer for our baseboards. We turn on our window and door tags to see better where our baseboard needs to go. Now we draw basic lines on the bottom of the floor. Make sure you have your correct layer selected. You can click once, click again, and press Escape in case the baseboard is interrupted by a door. If you need to toggle with the orbit mode, just go ahead and click and back to click L. This way it's disconnected to the last line and escape to leave the tool. Let's turn out our wall layer windows and doors. Now you can see the lines here. This is where our baseboard will be placed along. As I mentioned in the beginning, we need a two D profile in order to create baseboards. We could create our own shape in the size we need. Group it and rotate it so it stands up. Then we move the left bottom corner to the line. Since the line breaks where the window is, I need to copy this shape to the other line as well. Then we click right Explode. All lines are interconnected. Now comes the magic. We select the lines first, then you can find the follow me tool on the left tool bar. Once we click on the surface, it creates our baseboard. Let's not forget to group it. If you need a fancier shape, you can search the sketch up warehouse. Just type in baseboard, you will find plenty. We're looking for a two D flat shape. If you can't find it, you could also download the three D file and just copy the surface again. I like to use the new file to download anything from the warehouse to not mess up with my original file. Let's now see how this shape will look. Let's copy this surface and move to our original file to place it. Don't forget to group it after you have placed it inside your file. As we need to rotate it bottom left corner again to the line, copy it to the other side and explode. You could also click on the surface first and start holding down your mouse key and move along that line. I find it easier by selecting my lines first, but it's up to you how you do it. This is how you create baseboards. Let's create the crown molding in the exact same way we define the area by creating lines around turning off the walls and windows. Let's search for a nice profile. We copy the two D surface place and group it so we can move it freely. Remember the crown molding will go below the ceiling, so make sure to place it correctly. Once placed, we explode the two D symbol. Select the lines and use the follow me tool for the wins coding. It's the exact same process, only that you apply it horizontally. There might be even ready made profiles that you can download and adjust the size or create your own profiles. Best is to try out and do not forget to re, check the scale of your profile if you download something from the warehouse. Okay. That's just the combination of lines and a two D flat surface in order to create a three D shape from it. Using the follow me tool, I'm going to finish my model creating baseboards. I'm not going to use crown molding or wainscoting, as this does not go with my specific style in this case. But feel free to create or at least try it out once, just so you have done it. See you in the next class. 51. Creating 3D Wall Panels: In this video, we will have a look at how to create or find three D wall panels. Some suppliers offer free DWG files. Let's have a look at Arac Decor, for instance. Check out their range. They have profiles for crown molding, baseboards, and three D wall panels. You may find the technical drawing section here. You can download the DWG file, which obviously you can open and sketch up. Depending on the supplier, you may only get a two D surface, Which is fine. You can just pull this one out. Or in this case, the Cat file we got is already a three D file. We just need to adjust it. Scholar, We could now rotate our wall panel, duplicate it, and group the single panels into one whole group. Sometimes we may need to cut a piece off. Just bear in mind that some may be a component. We would need to make it unique first before cutting the edges off. We can also create our own panels as close to the original piece we got from the supplier. You get the idea. We basically build up our wall panels from a two D surface or we use ready made three D objects we get from the supplier or from the warehouse. I have created a couple of two D profiles for you. You can find them by searching two D wall panel, Eden Springs. Just choose one of the three available. I'm going for the standard bar panel. Just rotate it and duplicate the profile as often as needed. You may need to cut the edges off. Just remember it's a component. Make the last one unique to not start cutting all the profiles at the same time. Then we just push, pull them out. Since those are clones from the original component, they will follow along. The last panel needs to be pulled manually as we made it unique before. So it's not a clone any longer. Here we have our finished wall panel wall. I would like you to apply any of my profiles to this wall in the office, to those walls in the entryway and the big wall in the bedroom. You don't have to start from scratch each time. You can just copy the pulled versions of the components. I hope you enjoyed this quick video. I think now it's clear to you how three D wall panels can be built up. Just imagine them as a flat version and you could even create your very own. See you in the next video. 52. Applying a Paint Color or Wallpaper: Applying paint color, or wallpaper, is super easy. Let's say you have the RGB or the hex code for a specific paint color. Looks, for instance, provide those in their specifications. You can copy or write down the code. And once you switch back to the sketch up, press B for the bucket and switch to the caller slider section. Here you choose RGB slider, and then you enter the RGB number or the hex color code and press Enter. Now we can just apply the paint color to our walls, Make sure you have the correct layer selected when applying. You can also use the color picker from this window. Remember, it's not the color picker we use for sampling. This one will choose a pixel color from the monitor. Just move your mouse to the Swatch and it will sample the color from the monitor. Okay, now we want to apply some wallpaper. As I have shown you in module three, you can create your own seamless textures using canva finding materials in the warehouse or from any websites that I have provided. There are plenty of wallpaper textures. If downloading the texture from the warehouse as a material, it will be loaded in the in model section and you can apply them directly. If you have an external file, you can import that file as a texture. It will also appear in your model section, then you apply it as well. Just adjust the scale is needed. See, it's super easy for our Eden Springs project. I'm not going to paint, I'm also not going to use any wallpaper. But now you know how you could apply this. If you need a specific paint or a wallpaper for your project, feel free to try that out using a color hex code to any wall or search for wallpaper materials and apply that as well, see on the next video. 53. Introduction to realistic furniture : We have to find our floor, baseboards and other finishes like three D wall panels, paint colors, or wallpapers. Now it's time to furnish our rooms. As I mentioned before, I like to create my three D designs based on real products. Usually, after I have completed a spatial plan, I create a shopping list or a sample board with all the products and accessories that I'm planning to purchase for the specific room. This way, I can already imagine if the furniture I picked looks great together. It gives me a direction, or let's say a guide for my three D design. Now comes the more challenging part. I need to find similar furniture in the sketch up warehouse that I can use or I can create my own furniture. Obviously, if you have a very common style like coastal or Japandi, most likely you will find something similar within the warehouse. Do you know that certain styles usually have a certain type and certain shapes of furniture? You get lucky most of the times finding something that almost matches your products from the shopping list. A nice tip is to search for Ikea names. There are so many people building IQR furniture and upload them to the warehouse for everyone to use. You will be impressed by how many IQR products you will find within the warehouse. When searching for a specific product. I'm trying to not focus too much on the material, I rather focus on the shape of the product. As the material is easily adjustable afterwards, while changing the shape or the style requires a bit more visual imagination and some more sketch up experience. If you are a beginner and sketch up, your end results may not get 100% accurate as your real products. As you may not be able to adjust to furniture yet since you lack experience in three D design and lack experience in adjusting furniture in their single groups, but don't get stressed with more time and try and arrow, You will be able to adjust to furniture from the warehouse and even create your own furniture and point. I have created the furniture for the Eden Springs project completely from scratch. As a beginner, I recommend that you start with what's available in the sketch up warehouse. I have uploaded the entire furniture for the Eden Springs home there as well. You are absolutely welcome to use them for this project or any of your future projects. Once you search for Baka homes, you can visit my main page under collections. You have different categories under which you will find certain furniture types and pieces. You obviously then have to use my furniture. You can also create a completely different style Eden Springs home if you wish, that's your choice. Just keep watching the videos on how I furnish the rooms and start building the custom made carbone. Try as well see in the next class. 54. Furnish (Entryway): Let's start to create a new layer dedicated for all my furniture and accessories. Now let's download some furniture for the entryway. As I turn on my spatial planning tag, we can see what I have planned for this space. You can turn it off and on whenever you need it. Right when you enter the entryway, we will have a custom made wardrobe, which we will build in the upcoming video. Let's start with the furniture that will be purchased. So here I have a bench planned with this huge mirrow. I will start searching for benches and see what looks similar to my original piece. In this case, I have built my own furniture. So I'm going to download a bench from my collection folder benches and place it here I can start rotating it and move it to the spot I like. I could use my scale tool and change its size. Just remember that it may distort. If you going to use the scale tool on the whole group or component, sometimes it's worth investigating on how the group or component is built. Meaning, does it have multiple groups inside the main component that I can move instead of distorting my whole piece? There's no right or wrong on how you build your furniture or adjust it. As long as you're happy with the outcome. Many clients also don't seek perfection. When it comes to the three D design, it's more about a general understanding of how the space will come together. I'm not saying to do less quality in your three D, it's more about finding the right balance of your time investment and general design outcome. Sometimes something basic will work just as fine. Now let's download the X Elmo, the pillows, and the plans in this corner. A nice statement armchair and a side table for this area. I was planning to get a beautiful console table, a table lamp, and some accessories like this book, a vase, and a big shell ball. All of those products you find in my collection folders. Now let's place a beautiful artwork piece on this wall. I would like to give a huge thank you to Adele Nido, an Australian artist, for allowing me to showcase her artwork in our Eden Springs project. Her artwork pieces happen to enrich the whole design and just match perfectly the vibe I was going for. In this project, you can download an empty shadow line frame from my collection and place the artwork of your choice inside the white area. Just import the art image as a texture. Place it and adjust the scale if needed. Looking good already, what's missing is a wardrobe. I'm sure if you search for some Ikea wardrobe names, you'll find plenty of red made boxes that you could adjust to your desired look. But for this project, I would like you to practice to create a custom made wardrobe. You can see how we built this wardrobe in the next video. For now, feel free to furnish our Eden Springs entry way using the same furniture or search for other furniture pieces within the sketch up warehouse. See in the next glass. 55. Create Custom Cabinetry (Entryway Wardrobe): Let's open the PDF plan, which includes measurements for all custom cabinetry for our Eden Springs project. Let's have a look at cabinetry D one, our entryway wardrobe. If you work with inches, just use the inches PDF I provided. This is the top you. It consists of two separate boxes. I will also include two side panels to frame both boxes into one main wardrobe. I tried to showcase this using an inspirational image on my sample board. Now you need to decide if you want to only build the shell, the outside box, or if you want to showcase the interior of the wardrobe as well. This will take some more time, but may be required at times. If you don't need to showcase the interior, just save yourself time and build only the exterior of the wardrobe. I use my spatial planning layer as a guide. Now you know why I have created such a detailed spatial plan as this will save me time right now. We could also use the measurements provided in the PDF. If you were to build something based on a plan or measurements that you have, I do want to show you the real deal. Let's not just create simple boxes, let's create the whole wardrobe as this will give you a better understanding of building custom made cabinetry. Let's start with the base or kickboard. Let's make it 100 millimeters, or 3.94 " high. We create a rectangle and pull the surface, the group it. Next we need our frame. It's indicated in the PDF that the frame is 20 millimeters or 0.79 " thick. We need three of them. I create a rectangle and pull it up a bit. I group each of them separately. At this point, I could decide the total hate and mark it with a guard. I would like the carpenter to build this wardrobe in 2,400 millimeters hat, which is also about 94.49 ". I create the top base and move my top corner to this guide. Then I simply select all of the three side panels and use my scale tool to move them up as well. It's a rectangle, that's why scaling works great. Let's create our outside frame panel and this one up as well. Let's now do the interior. We can create a shelf, group it and copy it multiple times. We can always move them later as well. Since they are group, this will be one box that I may reuse. Again, Let's group it or create a component if you wish. I go back inside the group or component to continue working on it. Let's define the midpoint with a guide. Now we need doors. I want the lower door to be 1,700 millimeters, or 66.93 " high. The upper door is going to be 600 millimeters, or 23.62 " high. I use the same thickness as for the frame and push, pull them out. Don't forget to group each part separately. This will help in case you need to make adjustments instead of having all lines interconnected as it makes it harder to adjust it afterwards. Now let's create the handles. I'm using the same thickness as for our side panels. Push, pull this one out 30 millimeters or 1.18 ". It can help to build upside down sometimes. Let's copy the outside line. Push, pull this one up 20 millimeters or 0.79 ". Then I group my handle rotate to place copy to the bottom and use the scale tool to adjust its length. Select one handle and door and group them together the same for the bottom. Let's use the x ray and adjust the inside shelves. What we haven't adjusted yet are the gaps between the cabinet fronts. You don't have to create a gap, but if you do want to be really, really exact, you could create a gap of about two to 4 millimeters, or about 0.079 " between the doors. But this is for people with OCD, like me. Obviously if you let this cabinet built by the carpenter, he will know how much of a gap to leave between the fronts, then we can copy it to the other side. Now if this is a component and I would like to change the interior, we would need to make it unique. If it's just a group, we could go inside the group and just adjust the shelves. Instead of the shelves, I could create a hanging rod, for instance. I could open the doors to see inside and even fill the wardrobe with clothes from the warehouse. And here we have our finished wardrobe. Feel free to recreate this wardrobe, download it from the warehouse if you don't need to practice or create even your own custom wardrobe based on any inspirational image you found on Pinterest. See in the next video. 56. Furnish (Office & Bedroom Closet): Hi everyone. In this video, we will start furnishing the ten spring home office. But before we dive into that, I would like to share a couple of valuable tips to optimize your performance and sketch up. You will quickly notice that the more furniture you add to your project, the slower it may become. This slowdown can happen rapidly, depending on your computer performance. To address this issue, what you could do is, instead of designing an entire house within one single file, consider creating separate files for each room and representing them individually to your clients. If you do prefer a single file approach, like our Eden Springs project, you can improve performance by organizing your furniture on two separate tags. Just as I have done here, I have simply renamed the previous tag, Furniture and Accessories, Two furniture entryway. Then I turned it off and created additional tag for the office and other rooms. Any layers you are not currently using should be turned off to optimize performance. Sketch up continuously processes all the lines and edges within your file which constrain your computer's resources. Loading items from the warehouse can also be time consuming. Here's a useful trick. Download the furniture to your desktop instead of directly into your file. After selecting the appropriate layer and sketch up, import the downloaded sketch up forniture into it. This method is typically faster than loading directly from the warehouse. If there are no layers within the forniture file, it will automatically be placed on the correct office furniture Ta. You can find a file in the download section that includes all the furniture pieces from our Eden Springs project. This saves you from searching the warehouse for individual items. If you're dealing with large files, consider upgrading your Ram for smoother performance as well. Also, don't forget to periodically perch unused objects and materials. It may take some time. If you haven't done it in a while, just grab a coffee and let it run for some minutes. Now, moving on to our Eden Springs office, I have already furnished, as I mentioned earlier, all furniture pieces are available in the download section or in the warehouse. Let's take a closer look at this custom built low board and see how I have constructed it. It's essentially a combination of rectangles that I pulled out and placed them together. They're new cures in Wolf, this is pretty much easy to rebuild. If you're up for a challenge, you can try to recreate it or design your unique version. I had to adjust my wall panels because they were initially positioned all the way down. When creating custom cabinetry, consider adding wall panels after placing the furniture piece, allowing your cabinetry to be flush with the wall. I made these panels unique since I copied and used them in the hallway as well. Otherwise, they would have been cut at the bottom there as well. Then I added a stunning oversized artwork piece by Adel Naidu. Using fewer but larger furniture pieces in your design can create a clean look and you get this well factor when people enter the room. Now let's explore the custom shelf system I designed. Remember, my client is an interior designer herself. She requested custom made shelves to showcase her samples. I created a system where the shelves can be hung on the wall attached to a single bar, providing flexibility in movement. Isn't this an excellent way to manage your favorite materials and sketch up as well? You can create swatches and use this shelf to organize your material collection, just like you would in real life. Then place the shelf in your new project and easily reuse your textures. Next, I added a desk with an armchair and a sitting area. You might wonder why I haven't added wall or ceiling lights yet. Don't worry, I'll have a dedicated module for lighting later in my course. We cover that in doing time. Let's move on to furnishing the bedroom here. I used furniture for my collection portals as well. I did make a change in this corner. Initially, I planned to place the plant, but during the design process, I realized it might be a bit too crowded in here. I removed it and repositioned the bed more centrally. This showcases the importance of a three D design. It allows you to spot issues that might not be evident in a two D spatial plan. You can place real size products and see how they will fit together. Additionally, I felt something was missing above the desk area, which I haven't thought of. While a mirror or artwork could work, I decided that wall panels and a wall lamp later on would be the best choice. To avoid overcrowding the space for the closet area, I decided to use the same wardrobe boxes, while I could copy those boxes from the entryway and start tagging and moving all lines and edges to my bedroom furniture layer. Sometimes this can take some time. As you need to move all lines and all surfaces to another layer, I prefer to just download the piece to my desktop and report it again. The untagged layer in the original file will let me easily place it into my new layer without having to tag or move lines or edges. Just keep that in mind In the empty space, I would like some open shelves which we can quickly assemble. Finally, we can group all the boxes, copy them to the other side, and flip them for symmetry. That's all for. Now, it's your turn to personalize the office, the bedroom and the closet area to your liking. If you'd like more practice with custom cabinetry, feel free to recreate the office storage wall and the wardrobe or design your own from scratch using inspirational images, see on the next class. 57. Furnish (Living & Dining Area): Hi guys. So I have already furnished the living room area. Feel free to use my furniture, all completely different pieces from the warehouse. In module six, you will find a video on how I created the TV wall, which is basically using the same boxes from the entryway and office and just adjusting its size. I'm quickly going to apply some wall panels in here too, just by copying them from the office as they have the same hat. Okay, let's finish the TV wall with a 60 inch TV and another race. Now let's quickly play some pieces in the dining area. When importing chairs, there's a little trick to fill the gap between two chairs using the forward and the total amount of chairs in between as the number. When copying the chair to the end side of the table, simply type in the forward two, it will automatically fill the area with the missing chairs. Then I actually felt the floor was a bit too plain. This area, the dining area, needed to look more defined. I just went ahead and adjusted my flooring. Make sure to always work on the correct layer to not mess up your file. Okay, let's finish the dining area with some curtains. You can use mine or download any other from the warehouse. When toggling through the component, you can adjust the length by moving the end piece and just scaling the rod by using the middle point on the right side. You can also adjust the length and width of the curtain and duplicate it if necessary. I did use a simple gray tone for the curtains with a transparency of 79% Then I can copy it to the other windows if I wish. And make them unique to adjust its size. Sometimes it is required to make two internal groups unique. If you notice that they might be still connected to the original component. Okay, curtains are done. Let's actually create the fireplace. I'm just adjusting the name of my tag to include the wall tiles as well. Usually I create a rectangle of the area I would like to fill the tiles with instead of working on my wall tag, as this gives me more flexibility to adjust them afterwards, the thickness depend on your tile and glue. For this project, I set the thickness to 12 millimeters, or 0.47 ", for all tiles. Then we just need to copy the tiles to these sides and adjust them as well. I actually decided that the front tile will overlap the side tiles as this will look better. Once done, we toggle inside the tile group and mark the measurements for our fireplace. Usually I place the internal measurements, so basically the cut out for the fireplace tube, not the oval size. Then I cut it through my tiles and do the same for my wall. Please don't forget to switch tags. Once that is done, we apply our preferred tile. I created the kit cat tile, which I'm using also in the kitchen and the bathroom. Later you can find a video on how I created this seamless texture in module six as well, but we actually covered that part with the seamless textures in model four. Anyway, you can also use the tile from the warehouse up to you. Finally, we import our fireplace and slide it through the cavity. That's it guys. We finished the living and dining area. It's your turn to furnish your file and have a look at the time lapse videos of how I actually created some of the furniture pieces for some inspiration. And module six. As I said before, if you're a beginner, I would stick to what's available within the sketcher warehouse. With time you will learn how to adjust the furniture and maybe even create your own. 58. ✨ ✨ MODULE 7 (3D BATHROOM DESIGN) ✨ ✨ : Hi guys and welcome to module seven. In this module, we will learn how to create a bathroom in sketch Up. If you are a complete beginner when it comes to bathroom design, I would recommend you start reading my book that was in the download folder to gain knowledge about standard measurements when it comes to bathroom designs. And please take your time, as it's not so easy to grasp all the information at once. If you are ready, let's get started on our bathroom designs. 59. Introduction to Bathroom Design: Hi everyone. Congratulations, you have made it this far. Now we will dive into the more challenging design areas like bathrooms. If you're an experienced interior designer, you must have a lot of knowledge already and only need the practical part of how to design a bathroom within sketch. On the other hand, if you're just starting in your design career, you need to make yourself familiar with standard bathroom measurements. I hope you've had a chance to refer back to my bathroom measurements sheet for module two. It serves as a valuable reference for the typical placements of fixtures like bands, toilets, shower hats, and so on. Just keep in mind that adjustments may be necessary based on your project's unique requirements. Before we dive into the design process, it's crucial to establish a clear direction. This involves gathering inspiration from your client in form of images. Additionally, you should have selected the tiles, preferably a seamless texture from a sketch up warehouse or one you have created using tools like Canva or directly within Sketch Up, make sure it has the original size of your future tile to create a more realistic experience. Once the tiles are selected, it's time to dive into the specifics of fixtures and plumbing. The exact placement of plumbing dictates where toilets, sinks, showers, and other fixtures will go. Ensuring precise measurements and markings can help you avoid unnecessary costs later. Ideally, you should address this in the two D design phase to define exact locations beyond placement. You must also decide on the types of fixtures to incorporate. There are various options and you should familiarize yourself with them. For instance, let's discuss toilets. Consider whether a wall hung toilet with a concealed cistern is feasible, or if the plumbing necessitates a floor standing toilet. Similarly, think about tubware. Can it be concealed within the walls or should it be placed on the vanity? How about the basin? Does your client need more storage within the vanity? Then a bench mounted basin is the best choice. If your client wants the area to be cleaned easier than an under mount basin might be the better choice. As for bathtubs, can you opt for a free standing design or does it need to be connected to a wall? How about a shower? Can you implement a walk in design which requires a sloped floor for proper drainage? In older buildings, a shower tray may be necessary, but that depends on the budget as well. The world of fixtures is vast and it's essential to get familiar with these details. It's just impossible for me to cover all that in this course, especially as this is a sketch up course and we focus on how to design a sketch up, I would highly recommend visiting a showroom where you can engage with the stuff. You will likely learn a great deal about which fixtures work best for different bathroom scenarios. Embarking on your first bathroom project can indeed be daunting, But it's important to recognize that you are not on your own in this journey. As an interior designer, you don't have to possess expert crazy level of plumbing or tiling experience as their specialists. Dedicated to those aspects, your primary role is to offer guidance throughout the design process and oversee the project execution to ensure your design choices are implemented seamlessly. New bills often provide more flexibility, while older homes may limit your options. Bathrooms are spaces that often require early planning, so prioritize them in your project. Lastly, I understand that finding quality and organized fixtures in the sketch up warehouse can be challenging. I'm glad to tell you that with your enrollment in discourse, you have gained exclusive access to my private bathroom fixtures collection containing over 50 53d files of sinks, shower heads, tabs, toilets, bath and more. I'm constantly expanding this collection, so make sure to download the module seven file before your subscription expires one more time. I'm confident that using my bathroom fixtures will speed up your bathroom design process. Since showcasing bathroom fixtures can have a degree of generality, they don't need to be an exact match to the originals. Your client are unlikely to see the difference anyway. You can just reuse those fixtures for each new project while saving yourself countless hours that might have been spent sourcing the sketch of warehouse for bathroom fixtures. The next video, we will kick off the design process for our Eden Springs bathroom and powder room there. 60. Tiling Bathroom: Hi guys. As I mentioned before, the first thing I'd like to do is to tile the bathroom before placing the fixtures. I will quickly create some swatches to show you which materials I will be using in the bathroom and powder room. Now you can download any material from the sketch up warehouse or import a JP file of a tile you have created yourself or downloaded from an external website. I choose to download my material from the sketch up warehouse within my collection folder. I'm going to download the gray terrasal texture I created and place it into my Swatch. Now if you have downloaded another material, make sure it is correctly scaled. This means that it should be approximately the size of your future tile as well. You can create guides to check the scale and if necessary, adjust it within the added function, or simply by increasing the scale using the green symbol. Then I would like to use the kilt tiles I have also used for the fireplace. I just sample them from there and place it in my rectangle. They are already correctly scaled as I have made sure to create them in the original size of my tiles. You can check out the video in module six on how I created those seamless **** tiles using sketch up. Only I have defined my final tiles and scaled them correctly. Now it's time to apply them first, the flooring material as I have applied my previous floor within the wall tags, I'm going to make sure I have the right tag selected. Then I toggle inside my group and apply my texture straight to my flat surface. I mentioned before that I chose to display my floor flat, meaning that the surface here is already finished four level. If you need to display the thickness of the floor or the tile, including the glue, just push, pull the floor out as much as needed. What I would like to mention here is that the layout you choose is not defined as, this should be clear to your client as well. The layout of the tiles can change. Meaning the Tyler or the contractor basically has to decide how thick the grout would have to be and where to cut the tiles exactly, so it does look good. The tile layout are approximate placements. Make sure to discuss this with the Tyler, and he will point out if the layout won't work for some reason. As we turn on our spatial planning layer, you can see that I have included additional walls. We could have created those from the beginning, but maybe the project already had fixed walls and you need to add them later on in order to place wall mounted fixtures. Let me quickly create those walls and make them 1,188 millimeters, or about 46.77 " high. Why 1,188 millimeters? Well, initially, I want the wall to be 1,200 millimeters high. I deducted 12 millimeters of my tile thickness, as when placing the tile on top, it will reach the total height. Keep that in mind, but also your Tyler and contractor will know the exact details. This is just me and my OCD which makes me display all those so detailed, maybe you don't even have to do that in your project. The same goes for the thickness of the wall. Currently, it's 102 millimeters thick, which in this case includes the tile thickness as well. I simply push my wall back 12 millimeters, they're 90 millimeters thick, or about 3.54 ". But that obviously also depends on your country and their availability when it comes to frames for gypsum walls, this is just an example. Let's copy the wall to the other side as well, and adjust its length. Now let's create the wall tiles for the shower area. In the same way we have created the tiles for our fireplace. I would like to display the thickness here as well. You could also apply the material straight to your walls if you don't want to display the thickness. This wall will have the kid El tiles as well. All the way to the ceiling. I create my rectangle in the size I needed and pull it out 12 millimeters or 0.47 ", well the decided thickness, including the glue. Then I triple click to group it. Now I can already apply my material there for this wall where my shower will be located. I'm creating a tile for the top part of the wall and push, pull it out as well. Then the lower part, both will be tiled using my great raso. The upper wall will be kit again, this continues all the way for the right wall and along the vanity area. Let me speed it up a little bit for you. If you do want to have more space on the shelf behind the vanity or within a shower, consider thicker walls to make sure to have about 150 to 200 millimeters, or 6-8 " depth. This provides ample space for storing shower gels, shampoos, and other grooming products. I chose 90 millimeters for this project. You can just tell your contractor what your desired space will be after tiling and they will adjust the wall thickness, grout, et cetera, accordingly. Let me quickly finish the other walls using a combination of those two tiles. Again, some designers also like to incorporate waterproof wallpaper, wall panels, or simply leave some walls only painted with bathroom paint coatings. That's up to your project and client's budget, as well as tiling can become costly. Consider leaving some walls empty if they don't necessarily have to be tiled. Okay guys, that's it. When it comes to tiling, I'm sure you may be faster applying the texture straight to your walls. But keep in mind that making changes to an open source group may become tricky. And that is the reason why I do prefer to keep my wall tiles separate from the walls in the end. Also check if the tiles aligned and adjust them if necessary. In the upcoming video, you will start placing our fixtures. See you there. 61. Placing Fixtures (Toilet Area): Now that we have successfully tiled our bathroom, you will notice that I have incorporated both wall panels and a stunning wallpaper pattern. If you opt for wallpaper, ensure it's waterproof. Before diving into the details of the toilet area, let me provide a brief introduction to section cuts or section planes. Although we will have a dedicated video on this topic when we create elevations later on, I'd like to demonstrate how to use them right now. In certain instances during the design process, it can be challenging to work solely from a top down view. In our case, the toilet area is quite compact, making it beneficial to create a section cut of the house for improved disability. You can locate section planes in the main tool bar or by navigating to tools and selecting section plane. Once you click on it, a plane will appear automatically, displaying the various axes where you can position your section cut. To lock the axis, you can use your arrow keys or you simply move the plane to your desired location. Click once to assign a name. For now, the symbol isn't crucial, we will use it later when we are dealing with elevations. You can just leave it as number one and click Okay. As you can see, the number one appears in the symbol indicating your section plane is active. There are three concepts to grasp here, Section, plane, section, and section. Phil, if you click on the view option, you will likely find these three elements visible, Section, plane. This is essentially the rectangular shape that you see here rendered in a slightly transparent gray tone. Clicking it off hides the plane. But the section cut remains active. To bring it back, simply make it visible again. The section cut basically represents the cut through the house. It allows you to see the section plane while concealing the actual cut. To re, enable it, go to View and then select Section Cut. Or alternatively click right under selection plane and choose Active Cut Section Fill. This feature is quite useful. When activated, it automatically fills the walls provided they are closed. You may notice that in my project, the walls are only partially closed. As when you look under the project, the inside of the walls doesn't seem to have a surface. Usually it's not a problem as we don't need the surface inside our walls. But in this case, if I would like sketch up to automatically fill this area, we need to make sure we have a surface. This can easily be adjusted by selecting the appropriate tag for the walls toggling inside the group, and using the line tool on top of another existing line. This will automatically create a surface. Now it's also visible in the section fill. For now, let's reposition the section plane using the move tool to obtain a better view of our toilet area. Now let's determine the best placements for our fixtures. I have my bathroom measurements cheat sheet ready so we can cross reference the measurements there as well. Please refer to the section on toilet placement. To begin, it's crucial to determine the type of toilet suitable for your project. If your plumbing is floor based, you will likely need a floor standing toilet unless you're open to relocate your pipes. Now, our Eaton Springs project, we will opt for a wall hung toilet. I will indicate the precise location for the midpoint of the toilet. Referring to my cheat sheet, you will notice that a standard toilet typically requires about 900 millimeters, or 35.5 ", of space. While it's possible to allocate less space, it may not be very comfortable. Fortunately, we have ample space available here. Now I will create a new tag for our bathroom fixtures. We could search for toilets within the sketch up warehouse or you can use the toilets from my three D bathroom fixtures collection provided in the module seven zip folder. Simply import the toilet file you would like to use. The top part of the toilet usually sits around 435 millimeters or 17.1 ". But if your client is taller, you may need to place the toilet higher as well. When it comes to the toilet paper holder, it can either sit next to my toilet about 450 millimeters or 70.7 ", or if you have an adjoining wall, place it about 700 millimeters or 27.5 " from the back wall. I usually place toilet paper holders in a height of 650 millimeters, or 25.6 ", from finished floor level. The toilet push plate usually is located around 1,000 millimeters, or 39.5 ", from finished floor lever. If the pipes are hidden in the walls, we could now import some accessories like a toilet brush shoulder, some artwork. Since I will place some lights later on, I will keep my walls empty. For now, let's not forget to unhide our section plane. We could move it to the side or just deactivate our section cut and hide our section planes whenever we need them. We can just turn them back. On the upcoming video, we will focus on the bathtop area here, there. 62. Placing Fixtures (Bathtub Area): Hi guys. In the previous video, we already created a section plane for the water closed area. Let's create another one for this wall. Again, using my section plane and lock the axis or simply hover over my wall. I give it a name if I would like to. I'm just going to leave my symbol at number two. Now you can see that it does make an active cut on my new section plane. Automatically, we can hide the section cut to only see the section planes. Now we see all planes we have created so far. Whenever you want to know how many section planes you have created, simply make them all visible within the view section. This way we can select them individually and make an active cut on the wall you would like to cut our house. Let me activate the wall looking into our bathtop area by telling Sketchup this wall will be the active cut. I have already opened my bathroom measurements cheat sheet. Let's turn our attention to the section concerning bathtubs. The choice of bathtub type largely depend on your client's preferences. Freestanding bath are particularly popular. Of course, if your client prefers to have an inset bathtub, you may need to create a wall around it. There are other options as well, such as bathtubs connected to one or two walls, which can be practical because they eliminate the need to clean behind the bathtub. In our Eden Springs project, I have decided to place a freestanding bathtub to create the ultimate spa experience. When installing a freestanding bathtub, I typically leave a gap of 80 to 90 millimeters, approximately 3.2 to 3.54 ", between the tiled wall and the edge of the bathtub. I can cross reference my two D spatial plan to confirm the correct placement, aligning it with plumbing and water connections. I do prefer wall mounted tapware and mixers along with a hand shower. Let me place them real quick In the current configuration, each fixture is spaced 150 millimeters, or 5.9 ", from center to center, and approximately 800 millimeters, 31.5 ", from the finished floor level. I strongly recommend including a hand shower for convenience and ease of cleaning, as well as for hair washing. You can also consider a floor standing filler spout from my fixtures collections. As an alternative to a wall spout, it's crucial to check the spout length to ensure the water flows correctly into the bathtub. Finally, for this wall, I'm going to position a towel holder at the height of about 1,050 millimeters, or 41.3 " from the finished floor level. By the way, I have included various fabric options for repainting the towel and additional metal colors. In case you need to alter the metal type to adjust the material, simply sample it and toggle within the groups until you can select the surface. Use the shift key to colerate all surfaces with this area complete. Let's now transition to the shower, see on the next video. 63. Placing Fixtures (Shower Area): Hi everyone. In this video we will talk about the shower area. We first start placing my fixtures which already have placed the side of the house. Let us activate the previous section plane re have an active cut within this wall. What I can do is I can just reverse the direction to be able to have the cut on the other side. Then I can start placing my fixtures. All measurements can be re, checked within my bathroom measurements E, designing a shower can be quite challenging, given the multitude of factors to consider. Single showers, for instance, generally require space measuring about 900 by 900 millimeters, or approximately 35.5 by 35.5 ". However, if your project permits, please opt for more, especially if you're planning a walking shower. If the showers open, like in our Eden Springs project, the water can splash out and leave areas wet and slippery. So make sure to incorporate as much walking space as possible. One important consideration is the location of your existing water outlets and plumbing. This factor significantly influences the choice of your shower head type and placement. For instance, you might want to incorporate a ceiling mounted shower head, but this choice hinges on the feasibility of routing water pipes within the ceiling. In cases where you are dealing with all the buildings, you may be constrained to work with a shower rail, typically consisting of a shower head, a hand shower, and an integrated mixer for water temperature control. While these set ups might seem somewhat outdated, they could be the most pragmatic choice of installing new plumbing if it isn't within your or your client's budget. I do recommend considering a combination of a ceiling or wall mounted single shower had a separate hand shower, and individual mixers for both. This set up allows you the flexibility to position the shower mixer at the entrance of the shower, preventing your clients from experience a sudden cold water shock when they turn the shower on. You can cross reference all the necessary measurements in my bathroom measurements. Chee Cheat, which provides information on integrated shelves, niches, overhead, or real shower placements, and hand shower placements. Another crucial element to take into account is the drain, also referred to as waste. In case of a walk in shower, the drain typically resides just beneath the shower area. Such showers require a slight slope, though I usually don't showcase the slope within sketchup. Your contractor will be well worsed in determining the precise degree of slope required When designing a bathroom. It's prudent to consult with your contractor about the feasibility and potential extra cost of implementing a walk in shower. If a slope isn't feasible, it to cost more technical challenges, a shower train may be suitable. I have placed the wall mounted single shower head. The mixers will be located at the entrance for more convenience. Then I also placed the hand shower with its own mixer here as well. I like the idea to have towel hooks within the shower. The placement locations I also indicated with my pertomsments checheet, usually they're position 400 millimeters or 15.7 " apart. If you would like to hang a large towel or even a bathrobe, consider placing them at a height of 1,800 millimeters or 71 ". Lastly, let me import a shower screen in here. Since my shower screen is 800 millimeters, or 31.5 " wide, I need to adjust it. I decided to have half a wall and half screen within this project. Let's toggle inside my screen group. Select the edge which is not arched as this one is easier to push, pull and move it 400 millimeters or 15.75 " inside. Then I move my hinges to the spot as well. Sometimes it's better to push pull instead of scaling objects as they start to distort. Okay guys, now it's your turn to look up the measurements, place the fixtures for the shower area, and I will see you in the next lesson. 64. Placing Fixtures (Vanity Area): Hi, guys. Let's talk about vanities today. There's so many information when it comes to deciding which vanity type to choose, what fixtures to place, and where to place them as well. Luckily, I have a lot of information that cover this topic within my bathroom measurements cheat sheet. I won't go through all of the information within this video. That's just impossible. But please go ahead and make yourself familiar with all necessary information when it comes to vanity design first and for Morse, you need to identify the kind of fixtures that can be installed. Can you conceal wall mounted spouts with mixers within the walls? If not, you might opt for a single spout or a spout with integrated mixers on top of the vanity. Once that's clear, consider whether your client prefers a basin that sits atop the vanity, a semi set basin that partially protrudes, or an undermound basin beneath the bench top. These factors determine the ideal height for placing your vanity. There are plenty of examples to check on that within my book. Depending on the choice of your fixtures. Well then of course, you need to know if your vanity will be custom made or if you need to find a ready to purchase vanity for your client. In that case, I recommend to check the measurements of the vanity and try to rebuild it within sketch up as close as possible. The design of the vanity can really change the overall look of your bathroom. I can only advise to replicate the original piece. In our Eden Springs project, I constructed a custom made vanity that harmonizes with the rest of the cabinetry design, opting for a floor standing model, especially when dealing with real stone bench tops in that size. Consult the carpenter about the wall hung vanity's weight bearing capacity. Also, if you plan for a flush vanity between two walls, sure to account for the tight thickness while taking accurate measurements. Before commissioning the carpenter, you will find this specific vanity in my three D fixtures collections. Feel free to open the file and examine its measurements. If you're feeling adventurous, go ahead and craft your own vanity design with in our Eden Springs project. I'm looking forward to seeing your creative ideas. In this instance, I started by determining the basin's height, which was 110 millimeters, or 4.3 ". Subtracting this from the recommended total height of 900 millimeters, or 35.5 ", yields a vanity height of 790 millimeters, or 31.2 ". You find detailed information about this in my epoch, including recommended basin placements within the vanity. Furthermore, I positioned a wall mounted spout with a single hop mixer on the wall paired with the bench top mounted basin. You're designing your own vanity. Ensure that your pipes won't collide with any internal walls within the cabinetry. Depending on your vanity design, you may need to adjust the basin placement accordingly. Regarding mirror placement, it's crucial to position the mirror at high level height of your clients. To complete the bathroom, I added some accessories. We will discuss incorporating light fixtures and a dedicated module. I hope you find this module insightful for your upcoming bathroom design projects. In the next session, I will provide a quick time lapse video of our powder room design which follows a similar procedure. Basically, I can copy most of my fixtures from my bathroom and I just need to adjust my any size Module eight is all about laundry rooms. Can't wait to design our Eden Springs laundry room with You. See you soon. 65. ✨ ✨ MODULE 8 (3D LAUNDRY DESIGN) ✨ ✨ : Hi, guys. Here we are, Module eight. Module eight is all about laundry rooms. So if you would like to see how I created our Eden Springs laundry room, please visit this module. Let's get started. 66. Introduction to Laundry Room Design: Hi everyone. Congratulations on making it this far. When it comes to designing laundry rooms, there are several key factors to consider. Let's dive into these essentials real quick. Initially, I designed the layout of this laundry room during the two D design phase. Strategically placing symbols to mark the locations of the washing machine and sink. This foundation enabled me to construct the rest of the room around these pivotal elements. It's crucial to ponder the intended functions of the laundry room. Will it encompass a pantry or an ironing station? Industria vision involve incorporating a broom closet hanging rod, or delicate closing or any other specific requests from your client. Additionally, the choice between custom built or ready to purchase cabinetry modules can significantly shape the design direction. Consider the option of ordering kitchen cabinets to establish a cohesive look within the entire house. Especially if the client desires a multi functional space that doubles as a pantry or a second kitchen area. Ensure a seamless flow within the space. Envisioning the entry points and intended usage to optimize the rooms layout. When incorporating a closet next to a wall, integrate filler pieces to facilitate smoother door operation. Storage is an important factor to be able to use the space as a pantry or hide washing and cleaning products. Hoover, ironing, boards, brooms, et cetera. In here we have this big broom closet, some open shelves on top of the hanging rod, and in the corner some upper cabinets, lower cabinets where we can even use the corner for storage as well, and a big pantry area for sufficient food storage. Select waterproof materials that can withstand the humidity generated by washing machines and dryers. If natural ventilation is limited, prioritize the installation of a vent or exhaust fan to prevent mold build up, factor in the necessary electrical sockets, ensuring that specific outlets have ground fault circled interrupter, also called FCI protection, in the event of a ground fault. When it comes to measurements within the laundry room. I'm currently developing a laundry room measurements cheat sheet, but it may take some time before I can upload this to the module. In the meantime, I will include the most crucial measurements in the upcoming videos. For your convenience, if you're designing something in particular like a Pollard hamper or an ironing station, it helps to look for those products online to investigate standard measurements of iron boards, broom heads, cleaning products you name it is to understand the dimensions better. Okay, now let's dive into designing our Eden Springs laundry room Within sketch up while I share important measurements for the countertop heights and depth, cabinet heights and depths, hanging rod placements, much more. See in the next video. 67. Laundry Room Design Part 1: Hi guys. Okay, so we have to find the placement of washing machine, dryer and sink. Let's import the three D washing machine and dryer file from the module eight zip file. I will turn on the section cut to see better. Then I'll quickly exchange the placement of the washing machines. I would like to have it on the right side, placing it 25 millimeters or 0.98 " from each other. I'm also leaving a 15 millimeter, or 1.97 inch of a gap behind them and 25 millimeters, or 0.98 ", on the sides. This might need to be adjusted according to your specific model. Once that is placed, let's create the broom closet as seen here. I start placing a kickboard. In this instance, it's 100 millimeters or 3.94 " high. Then I start building the sides of my closet. The total height is 2,600 millimeters, or 102.36 ". Obviously, this is up to your design needs. And the ceiling height, of course, I usually leave an air gap on the top which can be closed off with a bulk head later on, or you can just leave it open. I start to create my doors. In this case, I chose a height of 1,530 millimeters, or about 60.24 ", but this depends on your design. Then I create an inset of 50 millimeters or 0.59 " them, 5 millimeters or 0.2 " inside. Let's finish the upper door fronts. We could also include some shelves inside if you wish to showcase the inside of the closet. Lastly, I would like to group all necessary elements into one group to be able to move the round in case I need to. Okay, let's create some side panels for the washing machine and dryer a head of 900 millimeters, or 35.43 " underneath the bench top is a good size considering that the appliances also need a ventilation gap on the top. The bench top will be 30 millimeters or 1.18 " thick. This also depends on the product you're using. I actually forgot to place some handles for my closet, so let's quickly do that. Typically, I place the handles at 1,050 millimeters or 41.34 " from finished floor level. You can use the leather handles from the three D file I provide or simply search for handles within the sketch up warehouse. In this instance I placed them about 25 millimeters or 0.98 " from the internal profile, but that's up to you. Let's not forget to group them with the cabinet doors. I incorporated a 100 millimeters or 3.94 " filler piece, so the client can open the doors easier. Let's move on to create the bottom cabinets. The width strongly depend on the general design outcome in laundry rooms, you can opt for slimmer cabinets than for kitchens Like in this example, the front width is 425 millimeters, or 16.73 ". The total height, including the kickboard, is 900 millimeters, or 35.43 ". When it comes to cabinet fronts, there are many designs. If you don't want to handle for the bottom carbonets, you could create a shark nose edge finish. I'm not going to place any drawers in here. These are just simple doors. Make sure to leave some space between the bench top and the edge so your fingers can actually pull the front out to cover the gap. I'm creating a piece of 50 millimeters by 20 millimeters, or 1.97 " by 0.79 ". This also depend on your design. Obviously, usually the cabinet maker will adjust that for you as well. Maybe your design doesn't have to be as detailed, but if you do want to create elevations from this design three D design drawing, it may need to be built exact in order to get correct measurements in your elevation. Now that we have finished one cabinet, let's create one for the corner in the exact same way. You will notice that I tried to use the same width of the doors in order to keep a consistent design. Corner pieces are not so easy to design. You may need to search for some inspiration or simply visit Ikea or any other stores and see how corner pieces are actually built. Some have a corner resell site, some are just plain with shelves. Just make sure to include some filler pieces, especially when dealing with drawers and doors that need to be opened. I'm going to copy this single cabinet now and just adjust the size to create a double cabinet with two doors for our sink. Quick and easy. Don't you think I left an air gap behind the corner cabinet as my water pipes will actually run behind them? Here we have another corner cabinet just a bit shorter, and finally I can adjust the size of my countertop. We will continue in the next video, see there. 68. Laundry Room Design Part 2: Hi everyone. Welcome to part two of our laundry room design. Since we have finished the bottom part, let's move on to create the upper cabinets. The height of the cabinets will depend on how high your ceiling is and how much backsplash you're going to leave. I have created 970 millimeters, or 38.19 " high cabinets. But first, let's create the back profile for our backsplash. I chose 180 millimeters or 7.09 " of height. You can copy the line within the benchtop group and move it to the desired thickness. Then we just push, pull it out. The same for the other side, for laundry rooms, I recommend a back splash height of 700 millimeters or 27.56 ", but you can certainly do less here too. We have high ceilings, so this works great. Let's mark the spot where our upper cabinets will start. Now let's have a look at our spatial plan to create the correct size of our cabinets. 425 millimeters width or 60.73 ", and 330 millimeters depth, which is 13 inch. This is without the door front. Then we can use our guide to place it on its correct height. The next steps, you know, already creating the outside frame, the top, and maybe some inner shelves. As I mentioned before, the total height will be 970 millimeters or 38.19 ". And can differ depending on the height of your ceiling in your project and how much bed splash you would want to leave. Now we just need to finish the cabinet with a door and the handle. I'm using the same profile as we have used for our broom closet. We can now copy this cabinet as we need it on the other side as well. Time to create the apple shelves. The top of the highest shelf is placed 1,388 millimeters, or 54.33 ", from the bench top. The bottom shelf top sits at 1,060 millimeters, or 41.73 ". But you can just open the cabinetry file to measure or just have a look at the elevations. I have already finished the backsplash for my tiles. You can also do that at the end, as you usually don't place shelves or cabinets on top of the tile, you place them directly to the wall and then you add the tiles. Now we can finish up with our shelves as we have already marked the top heights. Okay. So where should you place your hanging rod? Well, approximately 290 millimeters or 11.42 " from your tile surface and leave about 85 millimeters or 3.35 " from the top of the shelf. Using my circle tool, I'm creating a 50 millimeter or 0.59 inch radius hanging rod. Then we can just add some hangers here from my three D collection as well. All right, let me now just finish the corner. Shelves, I'd like to place shelves in the corner instead of having all the cabinetry closed as this will provide an airy feel. Let us now prepare the cut out for our sink. The placement can also be checked on the PDF plan. I'm placing the sink 16 millimeters, or 2.36 " from the front edge, but this depends on the depth of your sink. Of course, just make sure to account for some backsplash tiles as they will reduce the total depth of your countertop toggling inside the countertop group. I'm creating a rectangle and just push, pull that out. Okay, now we can import the sink. I'm using the 370 by 490 millimeter sink. This is a great size. We can now mark the midpoint for our faucet, placing the center also 60 millimeters, or 2.36 " from the edge. I'm going to use a simple faucet with a separate hop mixer. But you can find more options in the bathroom fixtures collection from module six. Now that this is placed, we can use the same material for our countertop as I have used in the office. I will just sample that one and apply it to my countertop. Sometimes you may need to include some additional separations in order to your texture. It does look better. Okay, this looks good to me. Now, I'm just going to finish up with some accessories. What's left to do in the is the pantry carbonetry. This is fairly easy. You can recheck all measurements within the elevations in case you would like to rebuild this. If you're up for a challenge, why don't you just go ahead and design the laundry room completely different than I have? I would love to see what your ideas are for this space. See you in the next sessions. 69. Laundry Room Design Part 3: Hi guys. In this last video, I will speed up the process a little bit. As by now you should be familiar with building simple cabinetry boxes. Reading cabinetry designs can take up a lot of time. Make sure you charge your clients by the hour. As you can see here in my design, I usually construct the cabinetry with single groups. This way I can out shelves or cabinet walls easier instead of having surfaces and edges all within one group. If you need to watch this video in slow motion, simply select a lower speed in the video settings and turn off the sound. As otherwise, I may sound very funny, but that way you could truly see every click I did in here, if that is even necessary. I have just included this video as a bonus content. I'm sure you can already create something like this by now. When it comes to pantries, like in this example, I would recommend to opt for a good shelf height. I have chosen 395 millimeters, or 5,015.5 " of height. This works great for most products you would want to store in pantry areas. There's no specific rule on how to design your pantry. Just get inspired by searching for examples on Pinterest or on other sides. Obviously, this pantry is a custom made pantry, and the design can be really flexible, as it will be built by a carpenter. Not all clients will have the money for that. But certainly you can still get creative with more affordable IQR modules and combine them as you prefer to save some money. Okay guys, I will just wrap this video up with the last adjustments. Feel free to stay along or start recreating this laundry room. If you're up for a challenge, why don't you just go ahead and create your very own laundry room design? I would love to see how you would have planned this space. See you in the next model, guys. Thank you for being here. 70. ✨ ✨ MODULE 9 (3D KITCHEN DESIGN) ✨ ✨ : Hi guys and welcome to module nine. This module is all about designing a kitchen in sketch up. I will share with you standard kitchen layouts. We will talk about key measurements and important considerations when it comes to joinery. By the end of this module, you will see a full time lapse video of the creation of our Eden Springs project. You get inspired for your own kitchen design. Let's get started. 71. Introduction to Kitchen Design: Hi guys, Welcome to the most challenging part. As I found when I started with interior design kitchens, I have to say it's not an easy task. And if you're a beginner, you will most likely make some mistakes when it comes to designing kitchens, but with the help of a carbonate maker, or working with a kitchen design company, I'm sure you will gain more experience with time when it comes to sketch up. It's actually fairly easy, very similar to building a laundry room. Basically you're building separate cabinetry modules that you can then duplicate or adjust to your specific needs. What is more challenging is to know all the measurements and deciding on the overall design of the kitchen. The first question you need to clarify is if this kitchen will be ordered with a kitchen design company or if it will be custom made with a carbonate maker. If you're working with a kitchen design company, there's no point in creating a three D design in most kitchen design companies. They will already create a three D design for you based on some inspirational images in some countries, even for free as part of their service. If you live in the US, for instance, most likely you will build your kitchen with a cabinet maker. In this case, you need to create a design in three D, including elevations. This is exactly what we will do in here. We will build a custom made kitchen. Later in future modules, we will create elevations based on our three D design. Make yourself familiar with standard kitchen cabinet width, Ka method, or in some countries it's called section. It can give you a good starting point to understand standard kitchen cabinet measurements. As those modular boxes can be combined, decide on the appliances very early in the process as you need to know if you need to incorporate a very wide cabinet for your sink or your cook top. I'm also trying to use the same with cabinets within the kitchen, if that is possible. I basically start my design in two D by defining where I have my electrical sockets, water outlets, and plumbing for my sink. Then I can create my cabinet modules and decide where I would want to have upper cabinets or shelves, if that is within your imagination. If you're not experienced yet and you have a hard time imagining how this two D layout will look in three D. You can start by creating your models for the sink, the oven, and the fridge first, then you place them on the correct location and design the rest around them. In the future, I will also create a kitchen measurements cheat sheet, but again, I only have so much time in the day. Meanwhile, I will include some common measurements and the following videos. Please be informed that I can't possibly provide all measurements there are as designing kitchens can be very complex. If you're designing a kitchen for the first time, make sure to get help from a carpenter or let them see your design before showing it to your clients to make sure you can identify possible problems when it comes to your design. Okay, enough talk. Let's start with creating our Eden Springs kitchen and sketch up. 72. Kitchen Layout: Greetings everyone. When designing your or your client's new kitchen, it's natural to want to skip straight to selecting your color scheme, finishes, and appliances. I know it's tempting, but first things first, let's explore some standard kitchen layouts. Which layout will work for your project? Will depend on various factors, for once, the general size of the kitchen space available, and of course, your access points like fresh water supply, plumbing, and electrical sockets. There are some standard kitchen layouts you can get familiar with if you are just starting out on designing kitchens. Firstly, we have the one wall kitchen design, ideal for small spaces. To provide enough benchtop space, I recommend to have a minimum length of 3,000 millimeters or 118 ". Another popular option is the L shaped kitchen. Great at maximizing space with two adjoining walls for larger areas. Consider the incorporation of an island kitchen, a galley kitchen, or even a U shaped kitchen design. It's crucial to commence by identifying the most suitable layout for your kitchen space for your client's needs. Keep in mind that the placement of electrical sockets, water outlets, and plumbing significantly influences the feasible layout. Budget constraints may limit the flexibility to relocate these elements. Especially in the case of island kitchens, where fresh water supply and plumbing must be situated within the floor, assess the potential to move these utilities and consider the associated costs. While some clients may express their layout preferences, it's essential to ensure these align with the spaces limitations and crucial factors. When I start designing kitchens, I'm trying to give each area a purpose and I'm also envisioning the overal floor, how would I use the space? And I'm literally trying to imagine how I walk through the galleys and operate certain appliances. Aim for an optimal walking space of 1,200 millimeters or 47.24 ". Insufficient clearance can lead to issues such as simultaneous use of an oven and a cabinet door, or congestion with two people in the walkway. Tailoring your design to specific needs is important for short term rental spaces. The emphasis might be on aesthetics and an airy feel prompting considerations of more open shelves instead of conventional upper cabinetry. On the other hand, kitchen designed for larger families, prioritize functionality and storage where you may need to incorporate lots of upper cabinetry in order to get more storage in our springs design. I have seamlessly integrated a two wall kitchen with an expansive island layout, perfect for entertaining. As highlighted in my previous video, understanding the precise locations of plumbing, freshwater supply, electrical sockets, and the role of appliances is pivotal to crafting an efficient kitchen layout. You need to consider the working triangle. If you haven't heard of it before, I will quickly explain it to you. The kitchen working triangle principle is an effective guide for positioning the key work zones, the fridge, cook top, and the sink. It works on theory that these key areas should be located in close proximity to form a triangle shape. Each angle of the triangle should ideally be located 1,000, 202,800, millimeters apart. Any longer reduces efficiency while any loss can result in a congested workspace. When designing a new project, make sure to keep the working triangle in mind and choosing your over layout wisely. Stay tuned for the upcoming video where we dive into the different types of appliances at what it means for our three D design and sketch up. For now, simply continue watching the videos, take notes, and by the end of this module, you can decide whether you would like to recreate our Eden Springs kitchen for practice or embark on designing your unique kitchen masterpiece. See you there. 73. Appliances Fridge & Oven: Hi everyone. Let's dive into the world of kitchen appliances and explore how to seamlessly integrate them into your sketch up designs. For those new to kitchen designs, it's essential to acquaint yourself with the various types of appliances available. While some may be standard within your country, understanding these norms is crucial. Now let's focus on our first appliance, refrigerators. If a free standing fridge is preferred, Sketchup S warehouse offers numerous options. Ensure proper sizing by scaling the model to match the dimensions of the actual fridge. Remember to leave at least 50 millimeters or 2 " of space behind the fridge for ventilation. If incorporating cabinetry, maintain a minimum of 25 millimeters or 1 " of space around it, please re check with the specific fridge model. Some may even need more ventilation gaps. Integrated fridges within high cabinets are common, often with an integrated freezer. Communicate with carpenters and if necessary, send a fridge on site for precise carbinetry fitting. These fridges typically fit within a 600 millimeters, or 23.62 " wide cabinet, with the front starting around the benchtop height, or sometimes lower about the bottom of the drawer. But again, this strongly depends on the specific design of the fridge and if it includes a freezer, if you're not sure in which height to place the fridge front, you can place it somewhere lower above the bottom of the drawer line. Then you can place a note inside your kitchen elevations that the height needs to be adjusted by the carpenter. Regarding to the fridge model, I don't really showcase the inside of this high cabinet with integrated fridge, but I do make notes on my plans for our In Springs project. De Cline prefers an integrated fridge that sits in a standard 600 millimeter wide cabinet with shark nose edge fronts. Detailed cabinet redesign will be covered in the future video. Now let's shift our focus to ovens. When placing the oven beneath the **** top, it typically fits within a 600 millimeter cabinetry. Consider the overall width and height of the oven in relation to your cabinetry. If the total height allows, you can include blenders, filler pieces, or even a drawer at the bottom for added convenience. I can't possibly specify anything standard here, as this depends on the design of your cabinetry. Try to follow lines within design. Meaning if a close by drawer bottom line is here, try to place the oven at the same line. Well, alternatively, you can place the oven within a high cabinet, if it's the sole appliance. Align the bottom with a bench top or a little lower for integrated microwaves above position the oven at the bottom of the drawer line. Both can be better accessible as otherwise the microwave will be quite high to reach. Searching for ovens in the sketch up warehouse yields plenty of options. You can also use the one provided in the module nine zip file. While it's only the oven front, it's sufficient for displaying its location and the design as some three D files may have the whole depth visible that I find a little unnecessary. Stay tuned for the next video. I will dive into cooktops and rants until then. 74. Appliances Cooktop & Rangehood: In this video, we will talk about cook tops and range shots. When selecting a cook top, the first decision lies in the type electric gas or injunction. Depending on your country, certain options may be limited. Standard cook tops typically range 600-900 millimeters and width. Your choice should align with the available space and desired number of burners. Electric or induction cook tops are often integrated into the bench top. Sometimes combined with an oven beneath ensure the drawer or oven beneath matches in width. For a harmonious design, gas cooktops can be integrated into the benchtop as well, or in most cases, they are standalone paired with an oven for freestanding set ups, as I mentioned. Lastly, check the manufacturer's recommendations for the required ventilation gap behind and on the sides. Typically, it is around 75 millimeters or 3. ". Consider that in your cabinet tree design. Now moving on to range hoods. There is a variety of options visible hidden behind the cabinetry or custom hoods like the one featured in our Eden Springs project. Determining the ideal backsplash space between the cook top and the bottom of the range hood depends on the type of cook top and ceiling height. For electric or induction cooktops aim for 550 to 700 millimeters. Gas cooktops may require more commonly, 650-700 millimeters doing to higher heat output. While there is no strict rule on range hood width, ideally it should be equal or slightly larger than the cook top width for effective fume extraction. For a standard hood, consider recreating it or searching for similar models Within the sketch up warehouse. Modern kitchen often integrate range hoods within the upper cabinets available in various sizes. And if you would like to give your client a more unique experience, you can create a custom made frame like we did here with curved edges or any other preferred style. This frame is 350 millimeters deep and 1,000 millimeters wide. But certainly this strongly depends on the range hood you're planning to use. Also, I can't specify a standard measurement how much space to leave on the sides, as this will depend on the material used to construct it, as different materials have different strengths. I would recommend discussing this with the carpenter. In the case of our Springs Kitchen, a custom made range hood and induction cooktop were created. The range hood's outer frame is 200 millimeters wider than the bottom cabinet, allowing for a broader integrated range hood. Consider the sides of the frame as they will take away space and you end up having a too small extraction area. Finally, if opting for a cook top with an integrated ventilation system, please note that the extractor pipes need to be concealed within the cabinetry, potentially limiting storage space. This design looks sleek, but requires careful planning. Consider placing the cooktop near an outside wall to minimize the distance the extractor pipes need to run through. Both the three D, ring, shoot and cooktop provided here eliminate the need for extra cutouts in the bench top or ringshoud and sketchup. In the sketch up warehouse, you might encounter models requiring cutouts. Choose accordingly and what's more convenient for you. Join me in the next video as we explore microwaves, sinks, and dishwashers. See you there. 75. Appliances Microwave, Sink & Dishwasher: Hi guys. In this video, we will talk about microwaves, things and dishes. Microwaves can be simply placed within a pantry area, bench top, but often take away a lot of space. I recommend integrating it within a high cabinet or than a kitchen island. If your client doesn't have the budget for an integrated microwave and you need to incorporate a simple freestanding model, you can at least try to create a cavity space where you could place it inside. Since microwaves can get hot times, they need ventilation on the sides, the top and behind them allow 100 millimeters or 4 " of air space at the back, 50 millimeters or 2 " on the sides, and 150 millimeters or 6 " on the top. I do strongly advised to check with the manufacturer as from model to model this can differ. Integrated microwaves are more costly but look fabulous. They can be stacked on top of the oven or installed below the benchtop. Integrated models are designed to fit within a 600 millimeters or 23.6 inch wide cabinetry. And their height varies, but generally 350-500 millimeters. For our springs project, I have placed the microwave above the oven. You may be able to place them flush with the oven, or sometimes you need to incorporate some fill pieces in between. Depending on the optical lines of your cabinetry design, this is not really fixed. But I did place my oven lower. As I mentioned in my previous videos, the microwave is more accessible. Let's move on to things. There are so many design options for things. The size really can range from small to big, single or double things. Some are top mound with a sloping drain board. Some can be under mound or even designed from the same material as your bench top. Which sink to choose depend on your or your client's personal preference and budget. The sink cabinetry will need to be slightly wider than the sink to allow for installation. Often you see double door cabinetry beneath to fit the bin and the pipes. The distance between the front of your bench top and the front of your sink should ideally be 60-80 millimeters. To achieve this, you will usually have to bring your sink as far forward as possible within the cavity of the joinery below a think pole that is about 200 Imre deep is ideal. A free standing dishwasher will fit into a standard cavity that's approximately 700 millimeters wide and 700 millimeters deep and 820 millimeters high. Although model specifications can vary, with some x tall models being 870 millimeters or higher, we need to consider to provide about 50 millimeters or 2 " of space behind your dishwasher for the water and drainage holes, and for the sides between 25, 50 millimeters. Make sure to recheck that with the manufacturer as well. Ideally, you position the dishwasher beside the sink for more convenience if you're planning on using a built in dishwasher. Those usually sit within the joinery with a kickboard that lines up with the cabinetry of the rest Built in dishwashers can also be semi integrated or fully integrated with front panels that conceal the appliance behind joinery. Ensure any handle used has enough grip to allow you to open the dishwasher comfortably. If you would like to incorporate further appliances such as a minibar, wine cooler, make sure to have their specifications and required ventilation scaps so you can design the cabinetry or the cavity for them. Now that we have talked about appliances, let's move on to standard benchtop heights. And with. 76. Benchtop Height & Depths: Hi everyone. In this video, we will discuss bench top heights and depths. Typical heights for bench tops, factoring in their thickness, range 850-950 millimeters. Which size to choose mostly depend on user's height. If your clients tend to be taller, it's worth designing a higher benchtop. My experience, a height of 930 millimeters tends to be suitable for most clients. Once you have determined the desired benchtop height, subtract the benchtop thickness to define the height of your bottom cabinetry. The benchtop thickness varies based on the chosen material. Benchtop materials are generally available in slabs ranging from 12 millimeters to 20 to 40 millimeters. Which can either be used as is or fabricated to create a thicker appearance. The thickness you opt for is influenced by your kitchen design style. And budget thinner materials like porcelain that is 12 millimeters, offer the flexibility to achieve various thicknesses. Metering and gluing together three or four pieces of a 45 degree can create the illusion of a thicker benchtop. Laminating materials together is another option. It's crucial to note that changing your benchtop height during process is tricky, as it will impact the appearance of your appliances and the design of your overall cabinetry, fronts and drawers. You may need to incorporate fillers to address any gaps. I recommend deciding on that very early on. When incorporating appliances, check their specifications to ensure they will actually fit within the cabinetry. For example, a 100 millimeter thick bench top from thinner porcelain material that was glued together may limit integrated dishwasher options due to the space deduction. Adjusting the benchtop height slightly is an option, but be cautious about exceeding 950 millimeters, as this might feel uncomfortably high, especially for shorter individuals. Now let's dive into bench top depths. For those including a cook top or sink, the standard benchtop depth is 600 millimeters, but factor in the thickness of the backsplash tiles or a bench top profile like in our even springs project here. And consider making your benchtop 630, 650 millimeters to allow space for profiles, as those will limit your space. In the next video, we will talk about kitchen islands, see there. 77. Kitchen Island: Hi everyone. In this video, let's dive into some specifications when it comes to designing kitchen islands. I have used the same bench top height as the rest of the kitchen. As the same rule applies here, you can incorporate a sink, a dishwasher, or instead using the kitchen island for cooking and install a cook top here. If you are about to design a kitchen with an island, make sure the water pipes, plumbing, and electrical sockets are available depending on what you choose to install in here. Talking about general kitchen island dimensions, if you're planning on incorporating three island chairs, a total length 2000-2200 millimeters is ideal if you need to accommodate four bar stools. 2,400 to 2,600 millimeters is a great size for larger homes and kitchens. A longer three to 4 millimeters or even more island bench creates a fabulous feature. Just be aware that you will generally need to join two pieces of stone if your bench top is longer than a single slab. Length joints work best when they are centered on the sink, mixer, or cook top as this minimizes their visibility. Engineered stone slabs are generally 3,050 by 1,440 millimeters wide, with some jumbo slabs measuring 3,200 by 1,600 millimeters. So keep that in mind when designing your kitchen island. The ideal depth of an island will depend on whether you're planning to incorporate a breakfast bar with set. If you are going to install a sink or a cooktop in here for a kitchen island with seating, the recommended minimum debt is generally 900 millimeters, accounting for a 300 millimeter benchtop overhang. However, if your island design includes a sink and space permits, please opt for a debt 1050-1200 millimeters. This expanded depth allows to place the cabinet module, some air space for the pipes of about 130 to 150 millimeters. Some three D panels or tiles and the overhang for our both tools to be able to seat comfort. If you have the opportunity to design an even wider island of about 1,200 millimeters, you can maximize the additional space in the base cupboards by integrating concealed 300 millimeter deep cupboards that are accessible from behind the breakfast bar. Adapting a push and open front mechanism, as illustrated in this example. If you're fortunate and your client has the budget for a custom made kitchen constructed by a skilled carpenter, the possibilities for creative designs are extensive. Some designers have explored innovative elements, such as incorporating corner storage along the side of the island or incorporating a substantial round pillar beneath. I strongly recommend consulting with the carpenter about your design before presenting it to your client, especially if you are uncertain about its ability to bear weight and address engineering considerations. Finally, let's quickly talk about the kitchen overhang I mentioned earlier. An overhang of 300 millimeters is a good standard In most cases. Benchtop materials can effectively suspend this overhang size without the need for additional reinforcement, creating a visually appealing floating effect that allows for comfortable seating space. However, if you intend to have a larger overhang, it's advisable to consider a substrate for bracing and reinforcement to ensure stability. The last thing I would like to mention is the height of bar stools. Don't make the mistake in ordering stools and realizing they are too high. Please note that you need some leg room. I recommend to have 250-300 millimeters of leg room between the top of the seat and the underside of the counter. In our Eden Springs project, we have a space of 900 millimeter under the bench top, deducting the necessary leg room of let's say 250 millimeters. I need to consider basto of a height of maximum 650 millimeters and sitting height. Okay guys, let's sit for now. In the next video, we will discuss kitchen joinery in more detail. See you there. 78. Kitchen Joinery: Hide. Welcome to this lesson where we will dive into the world of kitchen joinery. When crafting your joinery, maximize the vertical space in your kitchen for added storage by incorporating full height joinery. If budget constraints apply, consider a standard kitchen height ranging 2285-2440 millimeters. And complement it with a bulk head above, creating the illusion of a floor to ceiling. Design bulkheads typically measure 3-600 millimeters in height. Only introduce bulkheads if your ceilings are 2,700 millimeters or higher. As bulkheads may visually reduce the ceiling height. When opting floor to ceiling cabinets, explore the option of incorporating a 16 to 22 millimeter shadow line or frame atop your cabinetry. This involves leaving a slight gap between the cabinetry and the ceiling with fill pieces or a frame enhancing depth, creating an optical lightness and dimension effect In the kitchen, specify the material thickness, generally 16-22 millimeters. As I mentioned earlier with your carpenter, when defining the outside frame, this is crucial to avoid design conflicts later on. Or ending up adjusting your Three D design. In our Eaton Springs project, a consistent use of 20 millimeter material thickness was maintained. But it's essential to accommodate the preferences and standards of different materials and carpenters. Now let's discuss kickboard heights. A kickboard, commonly known as a kick, conceals the recess at the base of floor mounted joinery, hiding the air gap and cabinet lags. When determining kick heights factor in integrated or freestanding appliances as they may influence the ideal kick height. Kick boards are available in various heights ranging from ultra slim options to those as high as 150 or even 200 millimeters. Standard kicks typically measure about 100 millimeters in height. The standard kick pot depth measured from the front of the cabinet carcass excluding the door, is about 50 millimeters. In our ten springs project, no depth was left, creating a recess of 20 millimeters with only the front door. But that's just the design choice. You could have constructed this cabinet module by creating a carcass like this and creating a recess for the kickboard of 50 millimeters. Having covered appliance placement and considering all information about standard measurements and heights, it's time to define the design of our cabinet fronts or drawers. I'm sure your client has provided you with inspirational images of how he or she would like the kitchen to look. By. Now you need to understand whether your client prefers drawers, simple cabinet fronts, or even the combination of both. You need to define also whether your client would like to have handles or a front that can be opened using a push open mechanism. Or some designs that offer the ability to pull the front or the drawers with your fingers. When planning drawers, consider the quantity, whether two or three are preferred. Taking into account a design using handles, push open or pull out styles. Design details like the shark nose edge, pull out fronts require thoughtful planning. Including a visible filler piece of about 25 millimeters or 1 " visible from the front, and about 50 millimeters or 2 " inside to make space for your fingers to actually pull the drawer out. If you're using handles or a push open mechanism, you don't have to include these filler pieces as they usually are stacked on top of each other. In reality, those fronts also have a tiny gap between them. But I do not showcase that within sketch up as this would just take too much time. In general, the cabinet maker will adjust those little details for you when actually building the kitchen cabinets. What's more important here is to give the cabinet maker an overall design, meaning creating some standard cabinet width so he knows what to work with when designing kitchens. I'm also trying to keep optical lines, if that is possible for our overhead cabinetry. I would also like to share a couple of information with you. Kitchen overhead carbo doors are most practical when they're not too wide. They don't really have to align with your bottom cabinetry when it comes to therewith a width 300-425 millimeters per door works well. I personally do not recommend to go wider than that as they can really get uncomfortable to open. Talking about the depth, a dept 3-400 millimeter is ideal to avoid knocking your head and provide enough depth for practical storage. 350 millimeters, including the kitchen front, is my go to depth when designing overheads. A nice tip I can give If you would like to use very basic kitchen fronts and do not want any handles or push up mechanism, consider a five millimeter front door overhang creating a finger pool right there. It's a very affordable alternative and it's functional. Lastly, I'm not sure if I have actually mentioned that before, but ventilation is also an important factor that need to be considered in your joinery design. Appliances can produce a lot of heat and the air needs to be released somehow. I recommend to talk to your carpenter where he can incorporate vans for you. You can include those within the kickboard, the side of the cabinet tree, or even on top within the bulkhead. Just choose a spot that aligns with your design and doesn't border. Okay guys, I understand that the previous videos were quite technical, but grasping kitchen measurements is crucial for accurate design And sketch up to enhance your understanding, I recommend exploring inspirational images and closely examine cabinet structures. This hands on approach will help you gain valuable insights into design principles and hone your ability to estimate measurements. In the upcoming videos, I will showcase a time lapse of the kitchen construction process. If you have specific questions about building particular elements, please do not hesitate to reach out to me. I'm Morton willing to assist with your designs while you have the option to replicate the springs kitchen using the provided measurements or examining the three D file I provided, I encourage you to unleash your creativity and design your own unique kitchen for the ultimate personal experience. I'm excited to see what you come up with, looking forward to connecting with you in the next module. 79. SketchUp Kitchen Design Part 1: Hi guys, and welcome to the last two videos of this module, where you will see how I have built the complete kitchen for our Eden Springs home in Sketcher. I speeded up the process again. If you wish to see this video in slow motion, simply adjust the speeds and the settings and turn off the audio. So as you can see here, I have turned on my spatial planning tab in order to see my initial two D design, which is really helpful now as I can just draw my cabinetry over it and use it as my guide. I always construct cabinets with a base first. Then I create the sides, the back, and define my drawers or kitchen fronts. This example, I chose shark nose edges, how they like to call them. And I always make sure to group my single pieces in order to be able to adjust them. Later on, we can then just copy the same module and adjust its size. I would not suggest to use the scale tool on the whole cabinet box, whether it can just push, pull single surfaces out. As otherwise you will also change the scale of the material thickness if you start creating elevation drawings later on based on this three D design, your measurements have to be exact. You want to recheck any measurements. You can always refer to my PDF plans or open the kitchen cabinet file which was included in this module package. I pay close attention to the cabinet placement and ensure there's ample storage for kitchen essentials. This includes optimizing cabinet heights and depths to make the most of the available space. Now let's talk about aesthetics. The overall design needs to reflect the client's style while maintaining a balance between form and function. In this kitchen, I played with a modern yet timeless design incorporating sleek clients and neutral color palette for a clean and inviting look here, venturing into the realm of kitchen design, it's crucial to grasp the concept of integrating filler pieces, Much like the example I'm showing here with my bottom cabinet and high cabinet filler pieces play a dual role. Sometimes they are deliberate design choice, adding a touch of finesse, while other times they serve the practical purpose of filling gaps. Imagine you have aligned multiple cabinetry boxes and suddenly end up with a three or four centimeter gap. That's where Philip pieces come into play, seamlessly, merging functionality with aesthetics. There might be the unsung heroes you spot above an oven or a dishwasher. The key is to approach their incorporation meticulously. Take the time to visually explore inspirational kitchen images. Observe how season designers have artfully integrated filler pieces. By doing so, you not only enhance your design knowledge, but also ensure that these pieces become strategic elements seamlessly moving into your overall kitchen aesthetics. When it comes to appliances, I consider their placement and integration. The goal is to seamlessly incorporate appliances in the Arial design, while ensuring they are easily accessible and at the kitchen visual appeal. Throughout the process, I constantly refer back to the client's preferences. Communication is key to understanding their needs, whether it's a preference for a specific countertop material, cabinet style, or choice of hardware. Of course, sketch up is my code to tool for bringing these ideas to life. It's versatility allows me to create detailed three D models, enabling both myself and the client to visualize the final result. As you watch this time lapse video, pay attention to the details, the placement of each element, and the layout behind the design choices, and how it all comes together in a harmonious and functional kitchen space. You will notice that building the east kitchen wall H S faster, as we basically can copy most of the cabinet boxes. I have already created a quick tip from my side. Start collecting your kitchen cabinet modules and a separate sketch up file so you can re, use them for other kitchen designs. Obviously, you can create modules that have three drawers, two drawers, or simple different styles. When searching the sketch up warehouse, I'm sure you will also find plenty of ready made modules that you can use. Just make sure they align with your standard kitchen cabinetry sizes you typically use in your country. In Germany, we usually have 60 centimeter kitchen models. Those are very common. But I know that in Australia, for instance, they like to use much wider kitchen models, so always the size when downloading something from the sketch up warehouse. And also check the material thickness so you don't run into issues later once you start creating detailed drawings from those cabinets. Okay guys, I'll just wrap this video up. Continue watching or skip to the next one. The choice is yours. See you soon. 80. SketchUp Kitchen Design Part 2: Hi guys. In this video, I will quickly create the kitchen island for our Eden Springs home. We have already talked about all the necessary measurements in the past videos. Let's focus on what's important and sketch up. You will notice I have simply used my models that I have already built and adjusted my model front where it was needed, like for the dishwasher here. Obviously, if you want to create a kitchen island like this one, make sure it's possible to relocate your plumbing or electrical sockets that usually come through the floor. Also, make sure to leave some air gap behind your cabinets to be able to install some pipes, et cetera. As you will notice here in this design, from my sink I have used the wider cabinet as I like to include the double sink. In general, if you don't know how to construct the kitchen island, when it comes to the engineering questions like will my cabinets actually hold a real stone top, et cetera, you can always present your kitchen design to a cabinet maker and they can tell you if your design is actually feasible. Talking about kitchen countertops, we have discussed in the previous videos how important it is to investigate standard slab sizes in your country. Make sure to recheck the standard sizes on where you will order the kitchen slab so you don't run into the issue of having a too short kitchen slab or a weird cut somewhere. I make it a practice to consistently incorporate the thickness of my tiles and sketch up this approach adds a layer of realism to the design. While some may opt to simply apply tiles directly onto walls without push pulling them out, especially in straightforward designs, I find that pushing and pulling to represent the actual tile thickness is invaluable. Particular in intricate designs where every millimeter is crucial. By representing the tile thickness accurately, it serves as a proactive measure. It allows for more detailed evaluation of the design, enabling me to detect potential issues that might otherwise go unnoticed. This meticulous approach ensures a more comprehensive understanding of the spatial dynamics and contributes to a more precise and effective design process. Okay guys, that's it from me. You can continue watching the video if you feel like, or jump into the creation of your own kitchen design for our Eden Springs home. See you in the next module. I, I. 81. ✨ MODULE 10 (STYLES, SCENES & VIDEO PRESENTATION) ✨ : Hi and welcome to module ten. Now that we have finalized our three D designs, it's time to showcase our designs to our clients. So we will learn how to use scenes, styles and shadows. And how to create creative elevation images. And by the end of this module, you will also learn how to create a beautiful video presentation to truly impress our clients. Let's get started. 82. Camera Positioning: Welcome to module ten, where I will guide you through the process of employing various styles and sketcher to create and capture compelling visuals for your client's presentation. Our focus today is on positioning the camera effectively for showcasing your three D designs. To start, let's address the importance of camera placement. Notice the ceiling I have incorporated into the model to eliminate the distraction of the sky. I simply created the surface of the whole floor, pulled it out, and placed it on a separate layer. For now, you will skip the implementation of lighting saving that for a dedicated module. Imagine our project is complete and we are eager to present the three D designs to our clients to position your camera, utilize the orbit tool to find an angle that suits your vision. You can also use the two zoom symbols as well. To further adjust. If you're lost and you don't know where you are, you can click on the zoom extent tool. It will take you out of your three D file. This symbol takes you back to the last previous. For smoother movements, employ the walk symbol by holding and moving your mouse upward until you reach the desired perspective. The look around tool allows you to pivot around a fixed point, mimicking a natural head movement. The field of view feature is invaluable for adjusting the preview to capture more in one single glance. You can adjust it by choosing a higher or lower number. Just be cautious when altering the degree as a low number may distort the whole preview once you start orbiting out. Again, if you do so, I do recommend reverting the number back to about 30 degrees in case you have used a different degree. Echo this number creates the standard orbit preview mode. But of course it's up to you and your personal preference. But sometimes if you set your camera position at a certain spot, you may want to adjust the field of view to capture more, so it's a very useful tip. Another tool is the camera setting tool. While I don't frequently use the camera setting tool, it allows you to set the camera to specific eye level height. And position it by choosing the desired eye level height through the bottom right box. Those are the tools. Now let's find an optimal position to capture our kitchen. I will use the orbit mode and experiment with the field of view option to identify the most appealing angle. You can use the tools you prefer. Okay, now I'm happy with this position. The next video we will talk about styles and sketch. Up later I will also show you how you can create a scene of this current preview to always be able to go back to it in the next sessions. 83. Styles: In this class, we go further and explore the diverse styles available in Sketch Up. If you are on a window system, you will find the style tray already positioned on the side. For Mac users simply navigate to window styles similar to materials. There's an array of styles to choose from and you can easily navigate through them within a single click. Every general template comes with a pre selected style. Remember, right in the first module, we choose the interior design template. This is the one we have currently. And the styles selected, just click your way through the navigation. Try out different styles, sketch up offers. You will quickly notice that some may not be that optimal. We will learn how to customize them shortly. Let's say we opt for the gray pen style within the sketchy edges styles. As an example, just like with materials, whenever you click on a style, it will be saved locally within your model. You can navigate to the in model section to find all the styles you have selected so far can get messy. Pretty quick, perch the unused ones to retain the currently active style. Keep in mind that only one style can be active at a time, but you can maintain different styles within this section temporarily if you don't perch them. Also be aware that when selecting a new style and perching the unused ones, it resets the collection and you are left with the style you have currently active. If you haven't done any adjustments to the current style, that's okay. As you can reload the original style from the dropdown menu. Now let me show you how you can adjust a style. We have our pen style active in the in model section. Basically, I will adjust this gray pen, temporary. As I mentioned, nothing happens to the original style. Then we navigate to the added tab. Here we see all the settings available. Let's have a look at the settings for edges, face background, watermark, and modeling experiment with different options until you find what suits your preference. For instance, I may click on the depth cue, increase my extension lines to make it look more sketchy, and remove the halo. You could also alter the line colors if you wish. Right now it's a gray, which makes sense, as this is supposed to look like a sketch. Moving on to the face section. Remember when we talked about that each model has a front and the back color front is white. Blue is back. If you don't want that, simply make the back color white as well. If for some reason you have a model that shows the back, it will now appear in a white, then we can decide on the face style. Click your way through to see the differences. I like this last one as it gives a bit more depth, but it's still black and white and sketchy within the background sections. I don't need to adjust anything as my background is not visible. But if it is visible from a window, you could make some changes. Here a noteworthy feature is adding a watermark, perhaps your company logo. Import the file using the little plus sign. It can be a simple J pack or a PNG with a transparent or white background logo. Name it and click Overlay. Create Mask. Removes the white background if you have one and inverts the text. If you would like to have your text black without a background, I would recommend to create a PNG file without a background or invert your file. Meaning your lobo text would need to be white and a black background. In the bottom. We can choose the blending, basically the transparency within the next page. You can choose the location. The logo can be stretched over, the entire window can be tiled or positioned in a single window. Let's choose the right bottom corner, for instance, and adjust the scale. If you're happy with it, click on Finish. Now we have a watermark in our file. If we start orbiting around, it simply stays where it is. Lastly, let's have a look at the model section Here, you can define the colors for displaying certain settings. This part here will make more sense once we start creating elevations. You can basically define the section fill colors, the line width, and so on. We can also define whether to display axis section planes or guides. Once you will select this style, they will either be displayed or disabled. You can obviously manually turn them on and off anytime, but this is just the standard of what you want sketch up to showcase when activating a certain style. Now, you may have noticed that an arrow symbol appears, letting you know that the style you have selected originally has been adjusted. If you update the style, it only applies to the style under the in modal section. That's it for the editing section. In the mix section, you could experiment with combining styles by selecting the arrow key up here. Choose from the bottom and drag it up to apply specific edge or face settings to the current style. Just be careful the return button won't work. Don't start mixing styles right after you have finished adjusting one specific style you like. I rarely mix styles, but if you have time to play around, go for it. I have my standard styles that I'm usually working with and I don't really need further styles that often. Now let's go back to Select Style section. I can now rename my Temporary Style. If you wish, you can create a new collection and save it under your favorites. You can add it to your desktop, for instance, then select it from the drop down menu. At this point, it should be empty as this is a new collection. Using the arrow button again opens the bottom section where we can choose our In Model section. Then simply drag and drop our newly created style in here. Now it's saved and once you start perching unused, it won't disappear as it was saved on a collection on your desktop. You will also notice that in your folder, a file was created to save you time. I'm sharing my Go to Styles with you. Download the folder from model ten file, save the folder on your desktop or somewhere safe, then go back to Sketch Up. Now instead of selecting a new collection, we choose open an existing collection to access my styles the same way as you created a new collection. My master collection will now appear in the drop top menu as well. Here you will also find the gray pen I just created and some more other styles which we will use in the upcoming videos. For training purposes, I do recommend to do each step seen in this video and make your notes if necessary, so you understand how to choose a style, how to adjust the style, and understand where your adjusted style has been saved. Then of course, how to create a new collection, how to add styles to your new collection that will be saved on your desktop once you start a new project on how to import an existing collection to it. You can also use my master styles collection and build it up with more styles if you wish. Because it is saved on your desktop, you can easily load it into your new project. Lastly, let me show you how you can export this preview as an image to present it to your clients. First, define your view and the window frame. Then simply choose File Export to graphic. You can select a common file like a J pack, tiff, PNG, et cetera. Please open the option settings. Now here you can choose the current view size, but the quality might not be that high. You need a higher resolution. Remove this check mark. Click on the chain to keep the current ratio of the window and increase the pixel amount. You can also define centimeters or inches. This could make a nice art to frame for your future clients as well. Don't you think? Anyway, Choose your desired size and increase the quality. And click okay. It might take a few seconds to process, then you can export and have a look at the output quality. Doesn't this look great? I love those clean, fine lines. Please recheck as well. The file size you have created, usually black and white, won't have many information. The file size won't be that high. You could send it to your clients by E mail without a problem. Just recheck that after your export in the case it's too high, lower the amount of pixels. Okay guys, these were a lot of information and maybe you need to watch this video twice. Don't forget to purge unused styles to keep your file clean and organized. In the upcoming video, I will guide you on creating scenes and saving them as a video presentation. See you there. 84. Scenes for Video Presentation (Video): Hello and welcome to this class where we will explore the creation of a video presentation using sketch up scenes. Let's begin by understanding how to capture a specific position and style for future reference or seamless transition between multiple scenes to access scenes on a Windows computer located among the tags on the right side, for Mac users choose Windows scenes. Currently this area is empty as we haven't created any scenes yet. Now let's create our first scene with the current view. In the bottom section, you can define what sketch up should save for this specific scene. I recommend unchecking the include an animation box if you don't want it in your video. Don't worry this will become more clear very soon. Use the plus sign to create the scene and consider renaming it. If necessary, you can turn off the thumbnails to optimize your performance. Notice the new tab on the top of your sketch up file as well. Now let's orbit around and create another scene of the kitchen view. Now when we switch between the scenes within this window, nothing happens to the model preview, but within this window you could make adjustments to the general settings. If we do select the tabs in the window themselves, you will see that sketch up starts moving. This way you can switch between both scenes back and forth to create or adjust transitions between scenes, please open View Animation Settings. Here you have the option if you would like a transition time between the scenes or not. We will have a more detailed look at these settings once we create more scenes for our video. Let us now adjust the current scene. Two, I would like my video presentation and three D color, not black and white. I will choose a different style. Let's say I use the three D standard color from my master collection. This one I would want to include my video presentation. I do check this box. Then we need to update our scene to overwrite the last settings. Let's create our first video. First, we need to have an idea of how you want the camera to move. Let me orbit out the position a bit. This would be a good starting point. I will update my scene again. By the way, if you don't like the axis to be visible in your video, like in this current preview, you may have to turn it off under view axis. It's a setting you can define within the style section as I do want them to be displayed. In general using the three D mode, I have it active in this specific style setting. But for the video, I will just turn the axis off manually and update my scene. Again, a dialogue asking you that you have made changes to your current style. That's because we disabled the axis view just now, we can update the selected style. You will notice that the errors in your style tab will disappear. Now this style is locally saved, so no overwriting of your original style. Let's click Generate Scene. Depending on how big your file is, this can take a few more seconds. It does help to remove the thumbnails, believe me, it's going to be way faster. Just let it process. And don't move your mouth or anything to give Sketch up enough time to finish the next scene. Keep going with your scenes with the idea of where your camera will move around just now, the further your stops are away from each other, the faster your camera will move, the shorter away you set your scenes, the smoother the video will get. But please don't make too many. Just try it out and find a good balance of how many scenes you need. What is the scene exactly? Basically, it's a fixed camera Point to where you can switch back to within a few seconds. Let's say I use the zoom ten tool to get out of my model. Once I click on my scene here on the top, it will bring me back immediately to my saved scene preview. This way you can set yourself multiple views to show it to your client instead of orbiting within your model. Now that we have defined a couple of scenes, let's go back to the animation scene settings. Right now I disabled the transition, but let me check that back on. Define the seconds for your transition time. The higher the number, the slower it will transition. Let us start the animation preview by choosing View Animation Play Sketch up will start playing your scenes one by one. Of course only the ones that you have that check mark on within the scene settings by defining how long the transition time should be between two scenes, you make your transition faster or slower. One is super fast, I find three somewhat suitable. Then you could decide if you would like sketch up to make a stop between scene points and hold there. I don't really like that setting, but if you prefer that you could decide how many seconds it should stop. I usually keep it as zero as I like a smooth flow, but that's your choice. You can always stop the animation by clicking on one current scene if you feel you need to make changes to it. For example, in some scenes you can see the laundry room. I do like to turn on the laundry room tag to be able to see the laundry room in this specific view. I select the scenes where it is visible. Then I activate the laundry room tag and simply update my scene. Now when I start my animation again on this specific scene, it will turn on my laundry room Ta. As you can see, it saves many settings within one scene. When working with scenes, try to be focused on what you would like to display and be careful to which scene you are updating. With the arrow keys, you could change the order of scenes if necessary. Maybe you would like to include an additional scene afterwards. This way you can change the order. Now that we have our scenes ready, let's create a video by selecting File Export Animation. Select your desktop or somewhere you want it to be safe to choose MP four video and please open the options. If you would like a good quality movie, I recommend following settings. You could certainly change your aspect ratio, but personally, I like the video settings to be 16 to nine. Please note that this can take up to 30 minutes or even more depending on the amount of scenes, But it's worth it. I wish we could choose 60 frames per second, but sketch up isn't that far yet. 38 is I export. And I will get back to you once that is done. Here's the final results. Do you see how smooth it is? That's because I haven't included the stops. A couple more recommendations. Instead of creating a huge video file with hundreds of scenes for all rooms at once, think about creating videos of each room separately. Meaning use the checkbox for animation and activate the scenes you want to create a video from. Deactivate the others before exporting, and so on. You basically create single videos for each room later. You can combine them into one video presentation using Canva or another video editing program. If you have started to have single rooms as sketch up files. Even better, you will only have a few scenes for each room within one file. Usually, I don't really keep all my scenes after I finished the video and I start deleting them as I don't like to have too many scenes in one file. But it's up to you. Just note that the last scene you delete will activate the latest style that was selected in it. If you have a specific black and white scene or something, you may need to select your standard three D style again to go back to your standard working mode. For that purpose, you can keep the scene too and just rename it to working mode or something like that. You can always go back to the okay guys. Now it's your turn to create your first video using scenes. You really have to try it out yourself. If you have any problems, you can always get back to me anytime. See you in the next video where we will use scenes to create section cut views. See there. 85. Shadows (Sun) Settings: Hi guys, I'm sorry. Before we actually continue with the section cut views, there's one thing I wanted to show you before we continue. In the past video, we have created the video presentation using scenes. I would like to actually show you how you can create shadows within sketch up using the solar north extension and the sun settings. Just be informed that this can take time to figure out the correct settings and depending on your computer performance, your sketch up might be very slow in handing shadows preferably save any progress before you start using shadows. As it can happen, that sketch up might crash in between. Also, I recommend not using shadows on a huge file with multiple layers on. Make sure to turn off all the unnecessary layers you may not need for this specific view. First, let us make sure you install a free extension called Solar North. You can open up extension warehouse just like the sketch up warehouse. This is a warehouse specifically for extensions or plug ins. There are many extensions out there you can install and try it out in the future. If you're a beginner, maybe you can focus on getting more confident with sketch up before trying out a lot of extensions. But the Solar North is a useful tool. Simply search for it and install the pluck in. You will know that it is installed by viewing extensions. It should be there. Then move on to Windows Shadows. To open your settings for the Windows computer, you should have this tab on the right side. Lastly, we start our Shadow Preview Under View Shadows just like Axis, you can simply turn the shadow settings on and off any time. Once they're on, sketch up needs to render a lot of information so it can get really slow sometimes. When do I use shadows? Usually only to create a JP view of a specific room for the client and to create some nice atmosphere. Now let's move on to the settings. First, let us use the Solar North tool to set our sun direction. You basically tell sketcher where north is and depending on the UTC you choose, the sun will be north or south. Toggle to extension Solar North. Set North, click once and start moving your mouth around the compass until you see the shadows on your surfaces. Click twice to set your Sun, Reject the shadow settings as seen. And here you could choose your country, UTC time. But personally, I didn't find that helpful at most times. Other than that, I just like to give my three D view a nice atmosphere. I don't pay that much attention to the UDC. I'd rather choose any UTC that will work within my file. I recommend trying to setting it at 11:30 for the hours, for the time of the day, somewhere around noon. You can also see the different month settings. You really have to try it out and see what looks best in your opinion. Sometimes you may need to set your Solar North again until you see the shadows. Lastly, you can fine tune with the light and dark settings. We could export this view, save another scene specifically for that, or even create a whole video presentation using the shadows. That is totally up to you and of course, your computer performance. Okay guys, now it's time to try it out and see how it works for you. If you need further help, you can always get back to me anytime. Don't forget to turn off the shadows whenever you don't need them. See in the next class. 86. Scenes for Top Views (Image): Everyone, in this video, I will demonstrate how I created this top view using scenes and styles. Before we start, let's make sure to create a scene to which we can go back later on. Basically a back up setting view of this current state. If you have seen the previous videos, you know what I'm talking about. Basically your working mode, the standard three D I use for water link. If you haven't created a scene within your file yet, make sure to set a scene and rename it. Let us review our current section planes within the model. Currently, we have only one or two saved, depending on how many you have previously produced. In the bathroom design videos, we have created a couple of section planes to cut through the house in order to be able to access smaller areas. You can keep them or delete them as you wish. I'm going to delete them as I would want to have a clean start here. Let us create another section plane. This time we don't cut through the side of the house, we basically create a cart from the top using the blue axis. I'm going to name my section cart, top view. If you have a ceiling activated or are working with a two floor story house, you can now cut through it. And using this section cut to define your position. If you don't have a second floor, you can certainly as well just turn off your ceiling tag and use the top view. But let me show you how we use the section plane in this manner. We select our blue axis section plane, click right and choose a line view. We then click on our zoom extend tool and zoom a little bit back in so we can preview our plan through the hall window. Now turn off the section planes and activate more layers for a comprehensive review of the complete floor. I'm trying to not orbit any longer as your top view will be lost. Just choose the layers you want to display. Now, if you haven't changed the camera options since back from module one, you should still have camera perspective activated. Now comes the magic. If we change to camera parallel projection, you will quickly notice the difference. It becomes essentially flat. That's what we need for this purpose. I can now modify the style if needed and choose the two D elevation color from my master collection, because we want this view to be used in the future. I will create a scene for this and name it floor plan, top view color. For instance, I'm still not orbiting this specific view or scene has saved all the settings. Now if you need to make changes to it, you can do so. Just remember to always update the scene as we switch back and forth between scenes. You will really appreciate the variety of settings sketch up actually saves within one scene. It's just amazing. Let us select the floor plan, top view color, and create another scene. I'm changing the style for this one using the two D elevation, black and white style and update my newly scene. Rename it again, obviously to identify it later on. Here we have two floor plan top views that we can export as a J park as seen in the previous videos. Using the file export to degraphic option, please be informed that this is not a scaled plan export. This file is mostly used to just showcase the floor plan of your client as a preview or for a real estate project or something like that. If you need a scaled file, we need to send this file later to sketch up layout and generate a scaled drawing from it. We will cover this in Module 11. At this point, you will notice that you could create your entire project in three D first, and then generate a two D spatial plan from it. We did create a custom spatial plan from the beginning, as I find them crucial before starting any three D design. But it is totally up to you and your personal preference at which point of your process you want to create the spatial plan. One more thing to mention, if I have a top view scene selected and start orbiting, you will notice that the whole file looks strange. That is, because in this scene we have activated the parallel projection camera setting. That's why I created the first scene in the beginning to go back to my original three D working mode, do not have to constantly switch camera settings. I will also not delete those new scenes as we will use them later and sketch up layout. Okay guys, now you know how you can use scenes to create a top view image or a spatial plan. After you have finished your three D modeling. I recommend watching the previous videos twice if you need more practice. It's really fundamental that you understand how to work with styles, scenes, and section cuts or planes to be able to start using those views later in sketchup layout. The next video, we will use the same technique to create unscaled elevation views for presentation purposes. See you there. 87. Scenes for Elevation Views (Image): Hi guys. In today's class, we will create unscaled two D elevation views of our kitchen. By now, you must be familiar with creating section planes and cuts scenes and working with different styles. For this example, I will create two elevation views, one for the north wall and another for the east wall. Let me start with the north wall. First we view our section planes. As this section plane is used for two of my other scenes. I have to keep it and can't delete it. Let's create a new section plane on the northern kitchen wall and give it a name you will remember. I'm using keEN for kitchen elevation North. I move it somewhere where my island won't be visible and align the view. Now we turn off the section planes and select zoom extent. Obviously, we keep the cart and the fill activated as my laundry room and entry way is also visible. I can turn those texts on as well. Then we select camera parallel projection. You will notice that you can also view the inside of the cabinets from the east kitchen wall. If this is important for you to display in your elevations, you may need to design the interior of your three D cabinets as well. For this example is not necessary, as my carpenter will design the interior of the kitchen cabinets himself. But you could certainly be very exact here and design the cabinetry interior shelves. But that depends on how much time you can put into your project and whether it is even necessary. Let us adjust the style and use the two D elevation color to get a white background. Remember when I told you that we will go back to the style modeling sections settings. Let us quickly have a look now for this specific style I have created or basically changed the section fill color. You can certainly adjust this in here and choose a darker or lighter color. I do not recommend to choose white, as otherwise you can't really distinguish where the cut is. Now you can clearly see where your wall and your ceilings are and the cut with a new cabinetry. You could also adjust the line weight and make it a little thicker. I think the standard is usually set at three. I do prefer thin lines, that's why the standard for this style is set at one. Notice that it shows that you have made changes to your style, but as I mentioned in the previous videos, if you update the style, it will be only temporarily saved and won't overwrite the original master styles. Just play around with the settings in case you want to adjust something or simply use the two D elevation styles as R, you can try the black and white settings as well. I personally like the style in color. This way you are able to view the materials as well. Choose or adjust the style as you prefer. Then we create a new scene for this specific north elevation view. I will call it Keen for kitchen elevation north as well. For training purposes, let me quickly create another scene for the east wall. This time I'm simply orbiting around and copying the current keen section and use my move tool. For Windows, you have to press control for Mac. I press the option button until I can see the little plus sign appearing with my rotation tool. I can also rotate it to any degree I wish this way. You could also create a cut through a house like this, but I want it to be aligned frontal to my east wall. Since it's a copy, it does copy the name as well. To rename a copied section plane, you have to use right click entity info there you can rename your section plane. Now what's left to do is to align the view, hide the section planes, and click Zoom Extent. Now we can create another scene for this elevation view called KeEE Kitchen Elevation East. Since my living room, laundry room, and office is visible here, I would need to turn the text on. See how fast we can switch now between elevations for every elevation. I need to create separate scenes. Later in Module 11, I will show you how you can use those specific scenes that you have created in sketch up and use them in layout. We will also learn how to display only parts of an elevation, like the kitchen only. But for now, let's keep it simple. At this point, we could explore those elevation views as a J pack as we have learned in the previous videos. But remember, they will be unscaled only for simple preview purposes. Another important thing to mention here, if I were to go back to my working mode or any other of the scenes that I have created and start moving objects. For this instance, I'm going to move the vase a little bit. If I switch back to any of my elevations where the vase is visible, you can see that the alignment of the vase, or basically the placement of the vase, has been adjusted. That's because it does save certain information within the scene. But it doesn't save, basically it preserves the three D design itself, which is good because imagine you would have to make all adjustment for all scenes moving the vase. If I were to adjust my kitchen cabinets and the three D working mode, it will also be updated in my elevation views as this is actually the three D file itself, no matter if you adjust it within the working mode and the spatial plant elevation or any other scenes, but using the parallel projection and the scenes just make them look flat. Okay guys, but now you should be familiar on how to set your camera, how to work with styles, how to create scenes and use scenes and styles to create a video presentation, a top view, or an elevation view. Basically, you are ready to start creating beautiful drawings from your three D designs using sketch up layout. I hope you enjoyed my course so far and if you feel that you are missing out on anything when it comes to sketch up, feel free to get back to me and I will do my best to help you see on the next module. 88. ✨ MODULE 11 (DOCUMENTATIONS WITH LAYOUT)✨: Welcome to Module 11. This module is completely dedicated to sketch up layout. You will learn how to create beautiful design documentation, creative elevation drawings, and scaled floor and spatial plans, as well as electrical plans and GPO plans. Let's get started. 89. How to set up LayOut: Welcome. In this video, I will show you on how to set up layout if you're using a sketch up Pro license layout should be already installed on your computer. Navigate to your application folder and inside your sketch up folder you will find the layout icon. Once started, you will be greeted with a welcome screen. In some cases, Mike, ask you to login into your sketch up subscription plan, but you have already done that before. So you know the process. In the same way as sketch up layout has its own templates. Under more templates you can see them all. You can navigate to title block, for instance. There are plenty to choose from depending on if you prefer your title block to be on the bottom or on the side. Usually, you will create the design documentations in three or one, depending on how big you need it. Decide wisely as later if you wish to change the size. It's a bit more tricky since I would like to show you everything from scratch. I will just open a plain paper page three. A new window has been opened. I would recommend to create a folder on your desktop where you can place all the documents you will need for this documentation. To keep them all in one place, it will be the layout file itself, the three D sketch up file you have created either single or if you have created multiple files for each room. All the separate files and maybe the spatial plan we have created the module two, as I like to keep them separate from each other, the two D and the three D file. Anyway, I'm placing them in a separate folder and call it KP documents, for instance. Now back to layout. The first thing you will try to do is most likely use your orbit key. That won't work as the navigation and layout is a little different, it feels different. Simply press H for hand. This will be much easier to navigate within the page space key to select objects. Basically, you use space and H to navigate and the mouse to scroll in and out on the side, you will see that your tabs has been opened. If not, you can turn them on. Under window, on the top of your main window, you will find multiple tools, some of which look similar to the ones you find in Sketch up, but we will go through them in the next video. Let us have a look first at some settings. Open Layout Settings Applications lets you choose a program you want to be used to adjust certain files. You can leave that open. Backup settings, I keep it as is to under folders, you will find where templates, scrapbooks, and pattern fill images are stored. Nothing to adjust here. Under general, only the mouse scroll speed might be interesting. If you feel your mouse moves too fast, you could decrease the speed here the presentation, I also don't make any changes under the scales. You will find multiple standard scales. If you need a very specific scale for your project, you can include it in here. Sometimes I like a scale that is in between two of the current standard scales to make it fit better on my page. Yeah, if you feel you need another scale, just add it here. Under the shortcuts, you can assign and view the current shortcuts. Under start up, you can define whether it should start with a welcome screen, open a blank document, or choose a very specific template. We will talk about this later. For now, we can close the window. Let's navigate to file documents set up. What is interesting here is maybe the grid, if you would like to display one, it can help later with placements of objects, but that is totally up to you personally. For me, it distracts me, so I don't like to use it under paper. You can adjust the, the size of your document at a margin if you wish. I keep it as a three without a margin. Well, in the rendering settings, I would like you to edit the resolution for viewports and images and choose high. This way your images will be displayed in good resolution. If you feel that your computer can't handle it that well, you can always adjust it to a lower resolution under its please choose your preferred mat. Lastly, I would like to show you how you can adjust your tool bar. Navigate to customized tool bar with time. You may want to include more tools. Up here, I'd like to add the hand tool, the undo redo tool, the bring to front, bring forward, send to back, and send backwards tool. The zoom extends both flipping tools, color and fronts. At the bottom, I choose icon and text. The instructor on the right side helps you understand tools as well. Once selected. Okay, now that we have set up layout, we will have a look specifically at the tools and the tabs in the next video. See you there. 90. LayOut Tools & Tabs: Hi guys. Let me quickly start by showing you a couple of the tools layout has to offer. First of all, the line tool, just like in Sketch up. You can create a straight or a free hand line on your paper with the space key. You can then select it, move it around. You can also scale it up. If you want it to be scale uniformly, press the shift key. I will move it on top of my other shape. And you will notice that it has been filled with a white surface. Open the shape options to view the settings you can make within this object. Right now it has a fill, you can turn that off or even change the color. You can fill it with a pattern using the pattern fill tab to choose from the standard options available. The stroke basically is the line itself. We can make it super thin. While 0.5 works best, as printers only can print a certain thickness. Just know that you can change the stroke thickness in here. I could even decide if my line will be dashed in here. If I have a straight line, I can create a start and an end arrow and define the size of the arrow with this number. Once you click away, you will notice that the settings will also go back to standard. If you wish to keep the same settings for certain tools, you have to adjust the settings before creating a new line or a free hand line. This way it will always be remembered. The Arc tools work the same as in Sketch Up. The two point arc creates an arc between two dots. The pi creates an arc with a fill. Just like Sketch Up layout has snapping points which make your life easier. Then we also have further shapes like rectangles, circles, and polygons. The offset tool lets you offset an object in the same way as in sketch up. If you would like to use the text tool, I recommend to open the fong settings as well. Before I create a text box, I set my fun to keep it as a standard. For example, using Areal standard size 12. There is a difference in simply this. Clicking once with a text tool, it will create automatically the size of your text field based on how much text you have ridden. Or you start by creating a text box and then start typing inside. With space, you get out of the text box. Within one click, you can move the text box with a double click, you can go inside the text box and adjust your text itself. The label tool lets you create labels. Here you can set your standard form as well. Also use the shaped style to choose the errors you wish. Please note that whenever you create a label, it will snap to the point you have selected. That means once you start moving your object, your label tool will also move. We will skip the measurements for now as we will create them later. The table tool lets you create a table. You can choose the columns and the rows. If you click another time, you can choose the width. With a double click, you are able to adjust the text inside the table with the select tool. You can also scale the table bigger, while it keeps the text size. With a race tool, you raise objects or lines. The style tool lets you copy certain style settings such as the fong and the size, while you can easily apply it to another text box. The split tool lets you cut a line into half and remove the part you don't want. I have never used it before. The join brings them back together. This is also a tool, I find a little redundant. The pen tool we already know as well as the undo and redo. Just like any other layout tools, you can define which object should overlap or be behind an object. Here you can choose the order. It works like layers or tags, but within one page, zoom extends brings you back to a wider preview in case you zoom in to close. Well, the flipping tool is quite obvious. Lets you flip text or objects. Let's move on to the tabs we talked about, shape style, pattern style, and instructor. Let's open pages. Right now, we only have one page. We could duplicate it, add a new page, and of course de letter page. You can choose if you would like to see thumbnails or a list. If you open layers, you will see a default page. And on every page layer, if we select on every page layer, we can place objects in here, which should appear on every single page. For instance, let me create two rectangles. Since I have placed them on every page layer, they will now appear on every page. I usually don't create more layers as I'm totally fine with working with those two. If something has to be on every page, I adjust the objects in here, Otherwise I use the default on every page. Also, once you are done with the objects for every page, I recommend to lock this layer so you don't start adding objects or texts by accident. Lastly, the scrapbook lets you include symbols such as people, or cars or trees, or even elevation symbols, which we'll be using in the later videos. We will talk about dimension styles in feature videos as well as the sketch up model when we start working with viewports. Over the next videos, I will show you how to work with text, lines, and labels before we start creating detailed drawings. For now, you can open a blank three page and start trying out the tools and tabs we have seen in this video. See you in the next class. 91. Working with LayOut Templates: Hi guys. Before we dive into the specifics of working with lines, text, labels, images, and viewports, I'd like to provide you with two templates that will be featured in the upcoming videos. Feel free to use these templates for your projects and modify them according to your needs. Up and downloading the Module 11 Sip file, you will find a folder containing layout templates. Open the millimeter or inches templates based on your requirements. In the following videos, you will witness an example of this document template filled with images and texts. In future sessions, we will utilize the drawing template to craft detailed spatial plans and elevations. These files can be retained for future projects, serving as a foundation to build upon. Once you comprehend how layout works, you can customize them to align with your specific needs and save them as your own personal template. By selecting file save as template, when you initiate a new project, it will appear in your template section. Basically, any layout file you have created can be designated as a template. I recommend adding your logo and editing your website details before saving it as your personal template. All right, let's kick it off in the next video. See. 92. Working with Text, Lines & Labels: Hi everyone. Before we dive into creating floor plans and elevations and sketch up, I would like you to grasp the basics of working with text images and clipping masks over the next videos to guide you, I have put together some pages showcasing a design documentation approach. I typically create my design documentations in another layout program like Nba, because it's a bit more user friendly with layers and image placements. However, when it comes to scale drawings and elevations, I rely on sketch up layout. We will create detailed drawings by the end of this module. It's up to you if you actually want to create your whole documentation using sketch up layout or later create a combination of both using sketch up layout and maybe Canva. Let's start by focusing on working with text. Now, when dealing with tabs on a Mac, they can get messy. You can simply click on window arranged panels and it will tidy up your windows. We have opened a blank three page. Make sure to check your document settings as mentioned in the previous video to ensure you have the right unit and perhaps increase the image preview to high quality. Navigating is easy using the handhole and the space button. You just have to get used to it, especially if you start working and sketch up first and then switch to layout under pages. You can see that I have created eight pages. For this example, it's up to you if you want to work with additional layers. Generally, I don't work with them that much. Usually I keep two or maybe three layers for instance. You can decide that some objects can be placed on every page layer that is automatically generated by sketch up layout. The rest you can place on the fault or any new layer, you can distinguish if an object is on every page layer by seeing the object with a red border. First of all, make sure you are on the correct layer. If by accident you have created an object or text on the wrong layer, you can write, click and move it to the correct layer. I'm going to lock my on every page layer. So I only open it when I wish to create an object that will be placed on every page. This could be a logo or something similar is in this example. As I mentioned in the previous videos, you can create a simple text box with the defined size. Or you click once to start writing and let layout. Create the text box based on how much text you have written. Under fonts, you can adjust the type size and the color of the text. For some reason you can see red error on the side. It just means that your text needs more space within its box. Just expand it. A useful tip is to arrange the text horizontally or vertically on the page if you wish to have it centered. Also work with the alignments within the fork settings. Sometimes you want your text to be aligned left and another time on the right or in the center. If you're working a lot with Nba, you may want to start scaling your text in here. But that won't work as you define the total area in which your text can be placed within this box. If you wish for a bigger size text, use the fork size settings in the same way as a sketch up. You can group multiple objects or texts together and ungroup them. If you have a group, you basically also toggle within the group to reach the object you wish to adjust. You can also create copies of a text using your option key on a Mac or control key on a Windows. Now, using lines in your documentation can be helpful as well. You can define the endpoints and its size or the general thickness of the line. Sometimes you may wish to create a line with a bow like this using the two point arc tool, defining the end points. And if you wish, you can even create dotted lines. Another useful tip is to create rectangles or rounded shapes and define whether there will be filled with a certain color or only create a border around. Next are labels. Labels are a combination of text lines. You don't have to create them separately. Make sure to set your settings first before starting a label, especially if you want to create multiple labels, as otherwise you need to adjust them one by one. Set your settings if you are happy with them, you can start creating labels by only using clicks. You get straight labels like these. If you wish an arc, simply click once before clicking the second time. Move your mouse up or down to set the bow, then type your texts and click on the Select tool to fix the label. Please be informed that once you start moving your object, your label will move too. It's better to create labels at the very last step on your page after you have already placed the images. Speaking of images, let's have a look at how to work with them in the next video. See you there. 93. Working with Logos, Images & Shadows: Let's talk about how to use images and logos and sketch up layout and how to create a clipping mask. First up logos for those running an interior design business heading. Your unique logo is a must, whether it's a Jpa or PNG file, with or without a transparent background sketch up layout handles them differently. I have organized my project folder with additional folders or better file management. Importing a logo with a white background or PNG file without one is straightforward. Just drag it into the file or use file insert. Remember to use the shift key when scaling to avoid distorting your logo or image. Now, importing a PNG file with a transparent background, unlike Canva Sketch Up, doesn't offer a one click background removal prep your files beforehand. Pec files are always flat lacking transparency, but PNG files can be prepared to have a transparent background. You can use online services such as Remove Dog or Canva to remove backgrounds and export the file as a PNG. With transparency, every image or file imported into layout is linked to its origin Under File Document Settings. In the references folder, you can see all imported images. Keep an eye on red indications. If an image has been moved or deleted from its original folder, it needs relinking. Also, if you have imported a logo or image, but later decide to not use it, it's still saved locally. You can perch unused images to improve your performance. Ensure a references are up to date. Moving an image requires re linking. Keep that in mind please. You will notice I have used many images, but how did I manage to create creative shapes around these images? Those have been created with the usage of clipping masks. For a clipping mask layout requires you to create a shape first. The easiest way is to create the shape of your choice, such as a circle or rounded shape. Then fill the shape with a transferent gray without a border. Then you import the image you want to place inside the shape. Place the image behind the shape. Scale it and since the top shape has a transparent fill, you can easily see through it to be able to place your image better. Once you're happy with its location, select both click right and create a clipping mask. Imagine it as a group, only that the shape defines the outer frame. We can always double click inside, start moving our image again. Once we click outside the clipping mask of the shape, it will be applied again. You could also remove the image and then place another image in the same way. Again, let's have a look at the examples from this documentation. See all those are shapes and define a clipping mask. Even the color samples I have used dulux images. If for the color samples you don't wish to use images, you can use the pixel sample pad to choose a color or just type in the color code within the RGB sliders. Let me move to the shopping list in order for those products to be placed behind or on top of each other. Those are all PNG files with the transparent background, usually when you use the images from a store. You mostly get a J Pac, they have automatically a white or certain background. If you wish to create a collection like this, you need to prepare your files and create PNG files with a transparent background. As I mentioned before, you can use Canva or a simpler service such as remove BG and download them as a PNG file. Then we can move those PNG files into layout and start moving them on top of each other To create this collection. You can certainly save yourself the time and simply place them next to each other using the original white background. In general, not all interior designers create a shopping list board like this. Some may use management programs such as my Doma to generate shopping lists with products and links. Since everyone has their own preferences, you have to decide what makes sense to you and your design business. I simply wanted to show you what you can do with layout. By the way, if you're working with Kena a lot, you know that you can add a link behind an image. When exporting the PDF, you basically create a clickable shopping list. Please note that unfortunately in layout you can't place links behind an image, but you can use the PDF editor afterwards if you need to include links on certain products. Lastly, let me quickly show you how I created this material board with the use of shadows. If you're familiar with Nba, you will know that you can attach a shadow behind an object if you wish to do the same. And layout, it's not as simple. But there's a little trick. Let me ungroup this sample to show you how you can do it. You will notice that I have the general clipping mask for my material. Then there's a PNG shadow file I have created previous in Nba. I simply placed it behind my sample. I can then just change the scale here. It doesn't matter if it starts distorting, you won't notice it. Then I just move it to its location and group both objects and we are good to go. It's a bit more work, but it's possible. When it comes to textile samples, I have designed a clipping shape that mimics the typical appearance of these samples. You have the option to draw a free hand or utilize the line and Arc tools. Once you have outlined the shape, use the joint tool to connect all lines and create the desired form. As a convenience, I will be providing you with this template allowing you to easily copy this shape from this file to your own project. Now you are equipped to handle images and layout, understand transparency, importance, create clipping masks, and even incorporate shadows. The next video, we will tackle ports and leveraging scenes from your sketch up files, Catch you there. 94. Working with Viewports (Spatial Plan Drawing & Key): Hi everyone. In this lesson we will talk about viewports and sketch up layout. Viewports are windows or frames that display different scenes or perspectives from your sketch up model. They allow you to organize and present various views of your three D model on the single page within your document. How do you create a viewport? Let's say we want to create a scaled drawing from our two D spatial plan we have created on module two using a sketch up file. You will notice I have created this page, Don't worry, I will share this template with you. Once we are in layout, we simply drag and drop the sketch up file inside, or we use file insert. Now what we see here is called a Viewport. It's essentially a sketch up file within layout. If we double click and click, right, we can choose some options here. For instance, we can start orbiting within this file. Now the problem is that it previews the last saved view. Certainly we can start to choose a top view and change the style in here. But it can happen that the next time you save the file, it goes back to the last safe preview. We better make sure we have a saved scene in our sketch up file that we can then choose in here. Let me open the spatial plan and sketch up. You can do so by clicking right and open and sketch up, or select the file from your folders. If you wish, you can create a scene of this, calling it working mode. Then we choose the top view. Maybe zoom in a little bit and adjust the style using my two D, black and white from my master's collection. Then we create another scene. This time I will call it Top View. If you haven't watched the previous modules and don't know how to create a scene, I would recommend to visit module ten. What's left to do is to save my file. Moving back to layout, it may happen that it was already updated. If not, click right and choose Update Model Reference. Now we can finally talk about this tab called Sketch Up Model. You can see multiple settings. Just relapse and see what you can choose. First of all, we select a scene like magic. Our scenes appear in here now. Now another important setting is to choose not raster, but hybrid. This will make your drawing clear. Another very important setting is the line scale. Maybe some of you have used layout before and were a little upset that the lines appear very thick even after setting hybrid. Now it's because your line scale settings might be too thick, just decrease the line thickness and you will be impressed by how detailed and clean your drawings will be. I would recommend to try out what works best for your printer. If 0.3 is too thin, choose a thicker line scale, and so on. In the camera settings, we could use a standard view such as tough view, but in this case, we have already saved our view within our scene. No need to adjust anything. Here you will notice that currently the file is not scaled. Meaning you can just use the window frame and scale it smaller or bigger. If we select ortho and choose a very specific scale, let's say one to 100 millimeters now, it will be fixed. Once we start scaling it, it only moves the outside frame. This way, we can just adjust the outside frame to make the general file appear a little smaller here. By the way, you can also choose the scale by clicking right. As I mentioned in the How to set up layout video, you can include more scales under layout preferences, scales under the style settings. We already applied a specific style setting within the sketch up scene on no need to choose another. Once you open the tags, you will be impressed that even here, you can turn on and off different layers or tags from your sketch up file. Since we can define that also within the scene, I don't really need to turn off and off any additional layer, but just now it's possible. Now look at this beauty of possibilities. We have three page with a scaled one to 100 millimeters spatial plan. Drawing the beauty of layout and view ports is that now if for some reason I need to make changes to my original spatial plan in sketch up, let's say I moved the entry arm chair a little bit and save the file again. One sum back in layout, it will be automatically updated. And that is the beauty of viewports. We can utilize different scenes we have created in sketch up and move them into layout to create skilled drawings From those, I will show you how to create measurements in the upcoming video. For now, let me create a key area similar to this, but maybe not as detailed with all the window measurements to define the area of the outside frame. I will start first by copying this scale drawing to the side. Start adjusting my window frame or just use a clipping shape to create a clipping mask to create those windows. I will speed that up for you, and here we have our scaled spatial plan with the key. It's up to you what you wish to display within the key. In the upcoming video, I will guide you how to create detailed measurements, how to export the whole drawing. See you there. 95. Adding Dimension & Multiple Viewports: Hi guys. Before we start creating our dimensions, I would like to show you a couple more tricks for your pages. Let me only view what is currently on the every page layer and unlock it. I recommend to add the most important information in this template, so it will be applied to all foer pages for instance. And scale your company logo. Edit your website information and adjust the drawn by section. Give the project a name and add the client information as well. Now let's talk about some automated options here. For instance, the date. How do I add an automated date or an automated page name? There's some automated options under text, Customize auto text. For instance, current date. You can copy this text. Close this window once you create a new text box P in this specific text box, once you click outside, it will automate. And you don't need to edit the date each time you revisit your layout file. The same goes for the page name. The page name relates to the page name you have created. Just try it out and make use of auto text to save yourself some time. Okay, now that we have added the most important information, let me turn my default layer back on and lock my on every page layer. I left the drawing on the default layer as this is something that changes with the pages here. And in the little drawing information box, I will adjust it too. I would like to actually start with the floor plan, not with my spatial plan. Let me turn off my spatial plan tag and this report. Now let's get started with our measurements. If you wish to have your measurements on a separate layer, you can do so simply create a new tag and call it measurements. I recommend to do that, as sometimes it helps to turn this specific layer off if I need to make adjustments to my viewpoint. As otherwise it might be difficult to select your viewpoint if your measurements sit on top of it. Okay, to create measurements, open the shape, style, dimension, style, and the fonks. You can select the linear tool from the top. First, we define a line scale. I will try with 0.3 I like my measurements to be in color to distinguish them better from the rest. For the start and finish arrow, I can choose my preferred symbol. Let me start with the first measurement and see how it looks. Once I click on the measurement, I can further define. If I want my measurement to be on the top, the middle, or below the line, I can define the alignment. And also, if I wish to display millimeters or just the measure by itself in general, choose your unit here as well. In the bottom, you can define whether you wish a gap between the start point or not. Okay, Now let me remove this measurement again and see if I need to make changes to the standard setting. As I mentioned before, your settings will be lost if you apply any changes to one specific measurement only. So make sure to have your settings ready and then start creating all your measurements. Now, if you have never created a floor plan before, there's a guideline when it comes to where to place your measurements. It's not mandatory to follow this guide always, but some recommended. Sometimes you may have many viewports within one page and can't always allow the full space of those guidelines suggested. Make it depending on how much space you have on your page. Those guidelines I'm providing are for three page. The first measurements are the overall exterior dimensions. It's recommended to place it 35 millimeters, or 1.38 ", from the outside wall. The second row could be the room dimensions and the outside wall thickness. Make sure to snap the correct points as they are important in case you make changes in your sketch up file is they will be adjusted automatically. In here, this row is usually offset by 25 millimeters, or about 1 " from the outside wall. Again, it depends on how much space you have. And of course, you can adjust the placement of some measurements a little bit for better visibility. Lastly, we have another row for the windows, doors, and some specific walls that we need measurements to understand how much space we have. If we want to place a wardrobe or something else, this row sits about 15 millimeters, or 0.6 ", from the outside wall. If for some reason you need to make style changes to all measurements, such as adjusting the text size, simply turn off the other layers in order to be able to only select the measurements. This way, you can adjust them all at the same time. What else did I want to share with you? Ah, yes. When you open the PDF containing the drawings from module one, you will observe additional viewports. I have incorporated These showcase detailed measurements from a top view perspective, highlighting custom cavenetry bathrooms, the laundry room and the kitchen. Essentially, these view ports are interconnected, they all use the same sketch up file. I can afford to duplicate the same viewport, adjust the scale perhaps one to 32, to present it more prominently on my page. And finally, apply a clipping mask with the thin border over the drawing. By fine tuning my line scale, I can determine the level of detail needed for this drawing. The use of thinly scaled lines helps in precisely snapping the measurements as well. Now the rationale behind creating such detailed to special plans becomes evident. I'm leveraging this sketch up file in multiple view ports to generate those intricate and detailed drawings. Just imagine the following. If I need to create detailed measurements for my carpenter from a top view perspective, I can't possibly have shown them all on the same page as my floor plan or my special plan have measurements themselves. Therefore, logically, I need to create further views and bigger views of a specific room or a custom cabinetry and showcase them individually. Another important consideration we need to make so many drawings from a top view perspective. Really consider to have a separate file, one for the two D floor or special plan to create those specific top views. Another is the three D file. To create elevations, layout can become slow the more big viewports you incorporate and the more details it needs to load, keep that in mind. Lastly, dark symbols you see here serve to identify on the spatial plan, the page where you can find this specific drawing. The symbol is from my master elevation scrapbook. In the next video, I will demonstrate how to import the scrapbook. We will also commence the process of creating elevations from our three D file. See you there. 96. Elevation Drawings & Scrapbooks: Hello everyone. In this class we will apply our previous knowledge to create those detailed scaled elevation drawings. In module ten, we have learned how to create scenes and apply certain styles to our scenes as well. I have shown you how you can create unscaled elevation J files. But for layout, we don't just want to import J files. We need scaled elevation drawings from our three D model. That will also update automatically if we make any changes to the design. Now the same way as we have used scenes for our top few drawings, we can leverage scenes from an elevation perspective to create those drawings and layout at dimensions or labels. I made sure to include many elevations in the sketch up file to show you how to organize elevations for your real projects. If you have to work with single files, that's fine. You will only have the few scenes per file. But if you work with one single files for the whole house, you need to make sure to keep an eye on the created scenes and not only that, the big amount of section planes you will have in your file, it tip is to place the elevation planes on a separate layer in case you need to adjust them. You can find them easier by turning off and on certain tacks, you could do that per room or multiple rooms. I have created a couple of tacks for my section planes. As you can see, you need to define how many elevation drawings you will need and create a numbered plan like we did in here. You don't have to create this overview, but it certainly helps to understand which walls or custom furniture pieces will get an elevation drawing. I have in total 19 elevations, as you can see in my sketch up file. To distinguish them, I have named my scenes and the section plane itself with the same name. Let's have a closer look. Our first elevation one is for our entryway custom wardrobe. I have made sure to turn off all unnecessary layers in my scene. This step is important as otherwise you will slow down layout unnecessarily. Turn only the tags on you really need. If you have skipped previous modules and don't know how to create those scenes in your sketch up file, I recommend to visit module ten. I wrote down my order of elevations I need and kept creating scenes and sketch up in the same order as I will do so on my plan, if you're starting to create those scenes, make sure you're well rested as it may take some focus. Once you're done with your scenes, save your file one last time, keep it open. Most likely you have forgotten to turn on or off a tag or might need to update the scenes once in a while. Therefore, might need to switch between layout and sketch up. I have layout already open. I used my drawing template and placed my two D spatial plan for module two in here to create this overview plan of elevations. To add those symbols, you can open your scrapbook tab and use some that are provided from sketch up or you can import my master scrapbook, which was included in the Module 11 file. Simply open the file and layout, you will notice it's essentially just the layout file with multiple pages. Basically you could add onto this file with more symbols you may need and then save it as a scrapbook. It will now appear in your drop down menu. With the added option, you can open the file and as I mentioned, could add more pages or more symbols. And it will be saved under this location. Now is C. Go to the elevation page, click on the symbol and drag it. Drop it inside your page. You can adjust the elevation number and the page later on. Then you can add the elevation line and change the size. Let us have a look at some elevation drawings. I already prepared this upper symbol and text, you will also find in the master scrapbook. Basically, I just drop my sketch up, file in here, choose my scene and my scale. Depending on how big you need to place the elevation, you may want to choose a scale of about 01:32 for an three page, or 116. If you want only one elevation per page for kitchens and laundry rooms, you may need to place it bigger 116, like in this laundry room example. As you need to add more dimensions for other elevations, the one to 32 should be sufficient. If I do reject this elevation size using a line, it's about 140 millimeters or 5.5 " in real size. Based on an three total size, you decide if that is big enough for you. If not, you can place just two or one elevation per page. On some pages, you will notice this round detail I have created. While I could certainly just use a screenshot or image from this area, I did want to create scaled measurements. That is only possible with a viewport. I simply copied this viewport, adjusted the scale. You may need one that is one to one, or one to five, or maybe one to ten in order to view it bigger. Then I added a round shape to create a clipping mask with a thin border. Once you start, dimensions sketch up will be able to snap onto those little points as it's a report. Another important aspect to consider is selecting the render mode as hybrid. But exercise caution as this might take some time to render depending on your computer's performance. Afterwards, define your line scale to ensure the creation of clean and crisp drawings. My preferred workflow involves creating the initial viewport, configuring the necessary settings, and then duplicating this viewport. Choose my next scene and just adjust my window frame accordingly. Once you have completed your elevations, the next step is to export them as a PDF. Simply navigate to file and choose export. Okay guys, I hope you enjoyed this module and feel inspired to create beautiful scaled drawings. As I mentioned before, I usually create my design documentations using Canva, but I really do depend on sketch up layout to create those detailed scaled drawings. Find the combination that works best for you. Now, enjoy a quick time lapse to see how I created the elevation drawings from our Eden Springs Kitchen. See you in the next module. 97. Hiding Objects in Elevation Scenes: Hi guys. In this video, I'd like to address something I overlooked when discussing scene creation. Occasionally, you might encounter the need to create a scene where certain elements are partially obstructed or cut through, such as furniture or accessories, or you simply don't want them to be shown. How can we conceal or disable them for this specific elevation views? Let's take a closer look at example three from our office. Suppose we prefer not to display the open door and the table lamp in this view. How can we present this elevation view in layout without including the door and table lamp? Let's head over to our sketch up file to find out. Fortunately, sketch up allows us to hide objects easily. First, select the elevation view you wish to modify, then identify the object you want to hide, whether furniture or accessories. Right click and choose Hide. After updating our scene, saving the file and returning to layout, these elements should disappear back and sketch up. If you wish to reveal hidden objects, you can find them under view, hidden objects. From there you can click right again and say unhide them. And from there, updating your scene if you wish to hide them again. Remember, hiding objects is specific to each view and won't affect your working mode, so there's no need to worry. We can apply the same technique now to our two elevation view. Perhaps we would prefer not to show the desk and chair finding them distracting. Instead, we want to focus solely on the showing the cabinetry. Of course, I could have created my elevation view sitting somewhere past the desk and chair. But, you know, sometimes it's not always possible. It's just an example to show you how you can hide elements in one specific view. Now let's hide our desk and chair for it to update our scene. Saving our file and moving back to layout, they disappeared. This quick tip saves you from having to meticulously having to position scenes behind objects or placing objects on a different layer in case that has crossed your mind. Okay, that's all for this video. See in the next one. 98. Lighting Plan: Greetings everyone. I wanted to update you on my ongoing work in Module 12, where I will dive into the world of lighting design within sketch up and layout. The upcoming module will cover specific aspects such as light types and placements, lumen calculations, and more detailed explanations on craft, a comprehensive lighting plan like this one. If you have reached this video before module twelve's release, I still wanted to offer a quick tutorial on creating a lighting plan. I will showcase how to use my master scrapbook symbols, and lighting and electrical plan template for this purpose. Important note, I am not an electrician and the plan I demonstrate is not a substitute for an official electrical plan produced by a licensed electrician. This plan serves the purpose of guiding clients who may feel overwhelmed when deciding on lighting types, fixtures, or electrical socket placements in a new build up. And downloading the Module 11 file, you can find the lighting plan template. It is your logo and all the other necessary information like your website, and save it as your template. If desired, ensure you have followed previous videos on opening and saving the master scrapbook. You should be able to choose it from the dropdown menu along with the lighting and electrical symbol section. Feel free to add symbols to the master scrapbook using the added function. You can simply add another row if necessary, and create symbols using layouts. Drawing tools, remember to close the master template file that we have just opened to avoid accidental overrides. When opening a new file with the template, you can then adjust the specific project detail, such as the name of the project. In this newly opened template, I will import a two D spatial plan from module two, scale it using a 1275 or one to 100 scale. Place it to a good location on my page. By clicking right, I can lock this viewport so it won't move around to enhance my symbols. I will create a transparent rectangle over my plan with a wide and transparent fill, I can lock this layer as well. Now, my master template already comes with lighting and electrical symbols. If you are using another template that you have created yourself, you can use my master's scrapbook and navigate to the lighting symbol page or the electrical page. Here you can find the key symbols that you can easily drag and drop into your page. Next, I ungroup the lighting legend key that is already placed on my page to access the symbols easier. Starting with light fixtures. For the entryway, I place symbols such as the table lamp, a walls, cone, and a track light. If you prefer a more accurate placement for your light fixtures, you can open your two D spatial plan at the same time. Create the guides and save the file within the guides. Once you move back to layout, it will update your file and you'll be able to see the guides in layout to place your symbols correctly. Please don't start measuring the layout as this is the scaled plan and it will take you a long time to calculate. Just use the guides in the file as they will be automatically saved later. You can just delete the guides. After you have defined all light fixtures in your room, decide from which spots you wish to turn them on and off. Again, this is not an electrical plan. I only showcase from which locations it will be best to use the light fixtures. If you haven't done any projects on site yet. You might not be familiar with the terminology of certain switches. Just know that the three way switch is to turn off the light fixtures from two locations. The four way switch is to turn the light fixtures on and off from three or more locations. If I was to turn this track light on from, let's say the entrance from the console area, and maybe from the end of the hallway. I can use the four way switches and place them accordingly. Now to indicate which light fixtures will be used with which switch, simply use an arc with a dash line between the switch and the light fixture. Now it should be clear to the electrician, therefore, he can create an electrical plan based on that. For my wall fixture, I'm choosing a simple switch from one location. The table lamp doesn't need a switch, it needs a GPO outlet. Have a look at the next page I created, placing all my GPO outlets and other symbols you might find useful as well. Generally, GPO's can be placed in different heights. Some are close to the floor, some may be over the benchtop. These details you can include within the elevation view, you could use a three D socket from the sketch up warehouse and place it on the correct spot in your file. Once updated, it will be visible in your elevation view where you can of course, include the measurements. Be informed that certain rooms need certain GPOs and building codes apply. Make sure to investigate within your country building code, how far away your electrical socket needs to be from a water source for washing machines and dryers. Your country may require a FCI socket. If you are having doubts about the feasibility of your lighting and general power outlet plan, I strongly advise presenting your finalized plan to an architect, builder, or electrician. They can provide valuable insight into whether the proposed placements are viable or neat adjustments. All right everyone. I will expedit the completion of the next module to provide more in depth insights into lighting design. In the meantime, I trust this brief video will assist you in creating your lighting plan and you can take advantage of the provided template and symbols. See you soon. 99. ✨ MODULE 12 (INTERIOR LIGHTING)✨: Hi, guys, and welcome to Module 12. In this module, we will talk about interior lighting. Discuss common terms such as lumen and looks levels, called the temperature. And we will also make some calculations for you to know how to calculate the required lumen in order to define how many light fixtures you need per room. We will also discuss some frequently asked questions about why it is beneficial to create a lighting plan like this. Let's get started. 100. Types of Lighting: Welcome. In this video, we will dive into the crucial role that lighting plays in shaping the ambience and functionality of interior spaces, and we will discuss different types of lighting. Understanding how to harness the power of light is a key skill for any interior designer. So why lighting matters? First of all, many of your clients may not know or haven't realized, but lighting hugely impacts someone's well being, and overall mood. We all get this awkward feeling when entering a dark and poor lighted room, and on the other hand, experience pure joy when entering a naturally lighted space. Obviously, the interior has a huge impact on how the light will appear as well. So all need to be in balance. Too create this balance, there are some important considerations. First, we need to understand the different types of lighting. Let's start with natural light. Obviously, the sun provides the best light there is, and depending on your country of residence, you will have more or less of it. Ever it's possible, try to incorporate as much of it as you can. But be careful when living in warmer countries as the sun has a big impact on heating up rooms. That is why in Germany, for instance, we usually keep our bedrooms in the northern area of the house. As in summers, the room can heat up quickly when facing South. Natural light can somewhat be controlled. You can use shades to soften strong sun light, and you can also play with the natural light by incorporating certain architectural elements to create interesting shades. Day, I actually saw something very interesting on the AVI interiors channel, a house from aval architects, where they have just made use of skylights to get more light in general, the entryway and in the bathrooms. They also used some interesting shades that I haven't seen before to create privacy, and I'm sure they will create beautiful shades on a sunny day. Those small incorporations just make a place really. Wherever you can play with natural light, and especially consider the sun's movement to fully take advantage of it. Once the sun goes down, or maybe we have rooms that in general, facing the opposite direction of the sun, and therefore, don't get much light during the day. We need to think of incorporating artificial types of lighting. There are three different types of artificial lighting. We have the general lighting, the task lighting, and the accent or mood lighting. General lighting can be achieved by incorporating ceiling mounted fixtures or spot lights or some pendants in certain areas. In modern homes, you can incorporate track light as well. Usually, they consist of multiple spotlights. Nowadays, it's harder to find lights that still use bulbs, so most new designs will have LED lamps in already. The next type of lighting is the task lighting. It is used to enhance functionality on specific work areas such as a kitchen island or at a home office desk. This could be achieved by using specific wall mounted down lights that only shine out a specific area or simple table lamp to improve the visibility within a small area. LAD stripes can also be used for task lighting beneath a kitchen or a laundry room upper cabinet. Lastly, we can incorporate accent lighting. It is used to highlight a particular element or feature to add drama and interest. This could be achieved by using wall lamps or washers. Even down or up lights from the ceiling floor can be considered as accent lighting, if they are strategically placed to highlight an artwork piece or a statement wall. I have mentioned LED stripes earlier. Well, they can also be used as Axen lighting, if they are more subtle, not so bright, often incorporated around the ceiling to provide a nice ambient. Light fixtures can serve multiple purposes within a space, functioning as general lighting, task lighting, or accent lighting, depending on how you use them, it's essential to incorporate all three types of lighting for a well balanced atmosphere. For instance, surface mounted down lights aren't limited to just general lighting. They can also serve as task lighting or accent lighting. The key lies in integrating different types of fixtures and deciding on their brightness and color temperature. So in summary, you have to get familiar with the types of light fixtures they are. Visit online stores and investigate what types of artificial lighting fixtures you can purchase. You can then continue watching the videos to understand the technical aspects of them, like how much lumen meaning brightness do I need per space? What color temperature should I use? You can then define specific light fixtures and assign them to one of the three lighting types we talked about. So let's continue in the next video where we talk about lighting color temperatures. See there. 101. Lighting Terms: Hi, v. Now that we have discussed the three lighting types, let's shed some light onto the topics of Calvin, Lumen and Los. Let's talk about the first one. Calvin. You may or may not be familiar with Kalvin. Calvin measures basically the color temperature. The Kelvin scale ranges from warm tones to cool tones. What are warm tomes? Warm toes typically range 2700-3 thousand Kalvin that create a cosy and inviting atmosphere akin to candle light or sunrise. It's a favorite in residential spaces like bedrooms, living rooms, and dining areas, fostering relaxation and intimacy. The most commonly used colder temperature in those areas is usually around 3,000 Kalvin. Neutral tones, neutral light, ranging from 3,500 Kalvin to 4,100 Kalvin, closely, miming the day light, providing a balanced illumination ideal for task oriented areas, such as kitchens, offices, and bathrooms. It enhances clarity and visibility, making it perfect for task requiring concentration, and attention to detail. The most commonly used color temperature in those spaces is about 4,000 Kalvin. And then, of course, we have cool light beginning around 5,000 Kelvin and above, and mimics the natural sunlight, offering a bright white light with a hint of blue. While it ensures excellent visibility and clarity, it tends to be too intense for most residential interiors. However, it serves well in specific applications like reading lamps, task lighting, and environments such as garages or workshops, where ample illumination is essential for focused activities. Now, every light source type, be it light bulbs, halogen, flourescent, or LEDs, each have varying color temperatures measured in Calvin. When purchasing light fixtures, it's crucial to consider these variations, LEDs, for instance, are increasingly dominating the market d2d flexibility with many capable of adjusting their color temperature with a simple click of a remote. Selecting the appropriate color temperature for different rooms or areas is influenced not only by typical color temperatures suited for specific spaces, but also by the personal preference of clients. Some may prefer cooler color temperatures while others may lean towards warmer tones. Moving on, let's introduce two more crucial terms. Lumen and looks. Lumen, Lumen quantifies the total visible allight, emitted by light source in all directions, essentially measuring the brightness of the light source itself. The higher the lumen output, the brighter the emitted light. It's a standard unit used to describe light output across various light sources. Looks, on the other hand, measures the illuminance of light falling on a surface, indicating the intensity of light perceived by the human eye on a given surface. It considers factors such as the distance from the light source to the surface being illuminated and the angle of incidence. In essence, Lumen measures, total light output, looks, gog, light, intensity on a specific surface, and Kalvin is basically the light temperature. While residential alighting doesn't have formal requirements for minimum los levels, the are guidelines to follow when it comes to look levels. I typically consider two types of lighting in here, the general light and the task light. I don't really factor in Axen lighting in my calculations. I view Axen lighting more as an embellishment intended to highlight specific areas rather than serve as the primary source of elimination for space, if you can follow. So for kitchens, the general light should be around 150 to 200 looks. But for task light like cooking or chopping on cardi tops, you're going to need more light around 250 to 400 looks extra. On the other hand, hallways don't need as much light. About 50 to 100 looks is enough for walking through. Hallways are just for passing through so you don't need bright lights, for doing task in there. While it might appear a little complicated initially, the concept will become clearer once we dive into calculating the required looks and lumen for our Eden Springs home. In this video, I simply aim to introduce you with the terms of Calvin Lumen and Los. Next, we will dive into the math behind understanding this table better and how I approach lighting considerations for residential spaces. See you in the next video. 102. Lighting Calculation (Entryway): Hi, guys. On this video, we will do some math quickly to understand the three lighting terms we talked about. Now we will do the calculation for our entryway. We need to involve five steps basically, and I always do that room by room. Keep in mind that I do not take into account axin lighting here. This type of lighting is always an extra to highlight certain areas. So looking at my finished lighting plan from Module 11, we can see that I have incorporated a track light, which is dimmable. Then I also have two axin lightings, the table lamp and the wall scone. For step number one, the first step is to identify the level of looks generally required for entryways. Checking on my list here, it says it's 50-100 looks. Now you can certainly decide to do something in between, but for this example, I'm going to just calculate the minimum and the maximum level required. I did not include task lighting for this room is I don't have any specific area in the entryway that actually need task lighting. For step number two, we need to define the area we are working with. I already opened my sketch two D plan from module one and two. I divided my floor surface in order to get the specific area here. And in the entity in four, we see that we are working with 14.43 square meters. If you are working with square feet, which is 155.34, you need to multiply that number by 0.0 929 to get the lower number in order to follow me. Now that we have defined the area, we can calculate the lumen required as seen as Step three. We simply multiply the minimum and the maximum looks with the area. I chose 15 to simplify that. For that area, a minimum of 750 lumen will be required. You can go up as high as one than 500 lumen. Something in between can obviously work as well. Now, in step four, we need to take into account the ceiling height. In my last video, I mentioned that the lumen amount is being influenced by how far the light has to travel to the surface. Obviously, if you have high ceilings, you need more lumen in order to light out the floor area. Then if the ceilings were lower. Now, there are some standard units you take into account as seen here. For our in springs house, we have a ceiling height of 2.7 meters. So we need to multiply our lumen by the number 0.8. These are the final numen now required. The minimum would be 600 lumen to lighten the whole area, and the maximum is 1,200 lumen. Let's have a look at the light fixture I'm planning on using in Step number five. I wanted to incorporate a track light, and I have found two track lights here. Now, where's the difference between both? Well, one has a maximum of 11 watts. The other can take up to 40 watts. Well, which one should I pick? Let's have a look at the bulb they're using. In that case, it's not an LED, meaning the light source is not incorporated in the light fixtures, and this track light is using G U ten bulbs. So G U ten bulbs usually come in different wattage amounts. First of all, we can choose the light temperature. Warm white, which is 3,000 Kalvin, and cool white, which is 4,000 Kalvin. Which one you pick truly is a personal preference. Since my client doesn't really like cool light in the entryway, she wants something warmer, I'm going to go for the 3,000 Kalvin. Now, talk about the wattage. Going back to my track light, I can see that it's using three spots. For the one, which can only handle 11 watts, therefore, I can only purchase the 3.4 watts. Each spot provides 315 lumen. Multiplying that by three gives us a total of 945 lumen. That could work as it's somewhere between the minimum and the maximum that we calculated in step four. If I were to use the other track light, which can handle up to 40 watts, I can easily use the stronger wat valves of six watts. Each would deliver 600 lumen, so that would give us a total of 1,800 lumen. Now, something important. Since I'm planning on using dimmable switches, and after I have rechecked the 3.4 watts or the first tracklide that I chose, these are not dimmable. In that case, I cannot really use them. And yeah, I'm going to use the other track light, which with the six wat bulbs as those can be dimmed. In that case, yeah, I do have a lot more lumen than required. But since I'm using dimmers, I can just dim it down. It's better to have the option to have a bit more light just in case. If I didn't have the dimmable option, I think I would stick to the other track light. Is my opinion, that would be sufficient with the 945 lumen. I do have another xN light, a was cone I'm planning to use for this space. So if I need more light in the worst cases, I can always turn on the was cone that has an integrated LED light source, which will provide additional 180 lumen. So those 945 plus the 180 could be sufficient, you know. But since I'm using the dimmable, I have to use the second option. Hope you guys can follow me. Now, before we continue with the next video, I would actually like you to try and do this example our home office area. Please calculate the required lumen for the general lighting the minimum and the maximum, and also for the task lighting, the minimum and the maximum. And in the next video, we can compare it together. Okay, guys, see you soon. 103. Lighting Calculations (Home Office): Hi, everyone. I hope you managed to calculate the required lumen for our home office. If not, that's okay. We will go through it now quickly. The required looks levels for a home office are about 200 to 400 los for general lighting, and three to 500 los for the task lighting. So I already wrote that down here. The area we are working with is 16 square meters. Now, let's do step three for the minimum and maximum levels for the general light, and the same for the task light. Simply multiplying the amount with the 16 square meters, to make sure I'm using a calculator. Okay. Now in step four, I will just copy that part and use the ceiling factor of 0.8 to have my final requirements. Moving now to sketch up, I already defined which sizes I approximately want to use for my light fixtures that helps me to understand the measurements better. So my was cones need to be around 250 millimeters in width. And for my pendant, I think I'm going to go for 600 millimeters in width. So I actually found this Nordic pendant light, which is almost 60 centimeters in width. So that works well and goes also well with my style. The bulb this lamp is using is an E 27, and we can use LED or standard bulbs, as we can see here. I will go for an LED, and I found this bulb actually from ICA, which is dimmable. In that case, it's important for our project as we use dimmable switches here. I think I'm going to go for the warm white and that bulb actually has an output of 1520 1 lumen, which is quite high. C hecking up on my required general light. Actually, I would not be sufficient if I only placed this lamb. So in that case, I have included two more walscones, as you can see here. So I would use my wal scones not as x and lighting. In that case, I define that this lambs are going to be increasing the level for the general light. I chose round walls cones, which have the size I need, and they actually deliver each 900 lumen. So all three light fixtures together will provide me with 3,320 1 lumen. That is somewhere right in the middle between the minimum and maximum. Now, the task lighting is a different story. Just keep in mind that those are general rules, and they don't always apply, and you don't have to necessarily use the whole required amount for task lighting. You have to be a bit flexible here, and it's just an suggestion. So the suggestion says it's 3-6 then. That's quite a significant amount, especially considering we haven't allocated that much for our general lighting. But anyway, it's just a suggestion. So I have opted for a table lamp. This table line is using GE bulbs, and I have chosen the GE bulb with a seven watts, which actually delivers us 900 lumen. However, going through this calculation has highlighted that we could actually incorporate more task lighting for our home office. For example, I haven't placed any light fixtures next to the seating area. Considering my client's role as an interior designer. She'd likely want to showcase some of her samples to her clients. Therefore, it might be wise to think about adding another wall lamp with an arm, perhaps with a neutral white light, like 6,000 or 4,000 Kalvin. This would be ideal for examining tile samples or similar materials. Unfortunately, the current information doesn't specify how many lumen this lamp provides, but I could always reach out to the manufacturer to inquire. And if I still feel, there is a lack of sufficient task lighting. I could even consider adding more of these arms lamps to the wall near the sample display. Well, the point I'm thriving at here is the importance of making these calculations to actually start thinking about lighting in greater detail and gaining a better understanding of the required for each area. Now that we have covered how to calculate the required lumens and choose suitable light fixtures for those two rooms, let's dive into finding light fixtures and explore some key placement measurements in the next video. See you there. 104. Light Fixtures in SketchUp: Hi, guys. So on this video, we will quickly have a look at how I approach finding light fixtures in the Sketch up warehouse. By now you should know, I'd like to open a separate file when downloading something from the Sketch up warehouse. Now, let's see if I can find a similar pendent light than the one I was planning on purchasing. So you can see that there are tons of light fixtures in here, and sometimes it can take a while to find what you need. But there's a little trick that sometimes helps. You can import the screenshot or JPEG file of your fixture and search optically within the sketch up warehouse. That also works for furniture, by the way. Sometimes you get good results really. Basically, look for something that looks similar to your light fixture that you can use. I always try to find something that can help me speed up my process. Otherwise, creating it from scratch might take some time depending on the complexity of the light fixture. Now, let me use actually this pendent here. Since it's quite big, I will adjust a de size a little bit and just use my scale tool to make it smaller. Actually, sometimes it helps to switch to parallel projection in order to get a correct size and three D, it's not always that visible if you get what I mean. I create some guides, use my scale tool to simply adjust it in a way that it will look similar to my pendent in here. For me, personally, it's not that crazy important if light fixtures don't 100% match. Most client won't even notice. The point is in getting something similar. Let's finally adjust the colors and maybe get a bulb from the sketch up warehouse as well. Finally, maybe change the color of the shade, and that's it. This works for me now. Here's how it looks in the office. Totally matches the wipe I'm going for here. Now we need to figure out our walls cones. Let's see what we can find. I tried sing for wall or wall lamp. There's so many, I can't really seem to find what I need. D. Searching by image also didn't quite got me the lampshade as many mirrors appeared. Actually, this scone is super easy to recreate. I simply create a circle, push pull it out, half the thickness and create an inner circle and push it out. Now, just need some white wood to finish, and that is done. When it comes to placement, there are no specific rules here, but I tried to place it in 500-1800 millimeters. You have to see what looks best together with the wall art you have or other design elements. Just going to create some guides to help me place my fixture. Now I actually wanted to show you a little trick on how you can create or simulate light within sketch up. I like to use Canva to create a yellow shine. Basically, a PNG file with a transparent background that I can then import into sketch. It will de the transparency, and I can just place it behind my walls and adjust the size of necessary. If you feel it is too strong in color, simply explode the file, so it becomes a texture, not an image. Then you can adjust the transparency and hide the outside lines. Yeah, well, this is how you could view light within sketch up. You could even adjust the color temperature if you wanted to, but I'm just going to move it back to its original state. Okay, guys, now it's your turn, feel free to finish the rest of the calculations for the whole Eaton Springs House rooms and use the light fixtures provided in the Module 12 file. You can certainly also search for some light fixtures in the Sketch up warehouse. The next video, we will talk about some frequently asked questions such as when to create a lighting plan in layout and when not. See you there. 105. FAQ´s (Lighting Plan): Hi, everyone. In this video, we will continue from where we left off in the last video of Module 11, where he should you how to create a lighting plan or GPO plan using layout. Now that you know how to calculate the requiredens for each room and determine how many light fixtures you need, you can certainly create a lighting plan like this for any of your future projects. I take this opportunity to quickly address some common questions from my students. So the first questions is, do I need to create this lighting plan in layout for my clients? It's not mandatory to create a lighting plan as architects often provide them in certain situations. However, there are instances where a lighting plan like this can be very useful. For example, if you or your client are planning to build a new house, but feel overwhelmed about where to place switches and GPO sockets, a lighting plan can help had a client who was planning her house a year in advance and provided me with a basic floor plan from the architect. It lacked detailed spatial planning obviously with only standard amounts of sockets and electrical outlets and no wall outlets at all. So I created a spatial plan, calculated the required lumen and placed potential light fixtures, switches, and GPO sockets, just like we did in using layout. Then created the entire house in three D before it was even built. This way, I was able to see potential issues like we found in the previous video where I could have actually planned another wall fixture in the office. It's always nice to have your three D design before a project is built or started. Using all my documents, including the spatial plan, the lighting, and GPO plan, and also the elevation drawings. I was able to coordinate with the architect. This allowed him to create an official electrical plan, incorporating all my ideas. In summary, while it's not necessary to create a lighting overview plan like this, it certainly can be very helpful, especially for new builds or projects where electrical locations can be adjusted. The next question, at what stage should you create a lighting plan? The timing depends on the overall timeline of your project. If your project hasn't started yet, and you have the time to create a three D design of the house first, it's best to define the lighting plan at the very end. This way, you can better visualize where you need light fixtures and see potential improvements. Your project is on a tight schedule and the house is already being built, you may have to create the special plan and lighting plan in two D first, and afterwards, start building or three D around it. The downside is that you will be constrained by existing locations. That would also be the case if you have a project where you can't move any electrical outlets. The next question, Is a lighting plan like this sufficient for the builder? An overview plan like this can definitely help communicate your ideas to the electrician, architect, or builder. But depending on your building codes, official plans may be required. Additionally, this plan is not sufficient for precise placements. For instance, this plan doesn't include measurements. You will need to add precise measurements to show the distance or your sockets, and especially their heights within an elevation drawing. Or include a note for the electrician or builder to understand your exact locations. But even if you can't change the locations of the light outputs. Having a lighting plan is still helpful in my point of view. It can be helpful, for instance, for you as a designer to remember which light fixture types to source. This way, you can have a look at the plan and know, okay, for the office, I need to source to wall scones, a wall lamp, and a pendent light, and so on. So if you have the time, I certainly encourage you to create a plan like this, it surely will be very beneficial to you. Okay, guys, I hope you found this module on L lighting helpful. I will continue working on another course or model for you in the future, so stay tuned. Let me know if there's anything else I can help you with in the meantime. See you soon. 106. BONUS New approach on working with tags!: Hi, Rowan. Welcome back. Today I'm sharing a quick video about text and Sketchop. One of my students kindly shared their file with me, which helped me understand a common issue that many of you may face. Lines or surfaces disappearing or not being assigned to the intended tag. I want to share a more effective way to handle this issue. What is the problem? It's easy to forget to work on the correct tag, which can result in lines, surfaces, or even parts of your sketchup file being assigned to the wrong tag. Sketchus tag structure can be quite complex. Lines surfaces, groups and components can have multiple connections. Assigning an object to a specific tag doesn't automatically ensure that all the lines surfaces inside that object are on the same tag as well. Parts of the surfaces might end up on a different tag, and when you turn this tag off, this can cause unexpected disappearing of lines and surfaces. What is the solution to this? If you are tired of constantly switching the pencil between tags, the simple rule is this always leave your pencil on the untag layer. Never ever move it to any other tag. Keeping the pencil on the untag layer ensures that everything you create remains on this specific layer. Instead of tagging individual lines or surfaces and just making all a mess focus on just taking the outside group or component as a whole. This way, the internal aligns and surfaces stay on the antag layer while the shell or the shell of the group or component is assigned to the appropriate tag. If you're working with an existing file, ensure every object has its own shell. If you have some open source object, make sure to group them first so they can be assigned to a different tag later on. Once everything is contained in groups or components, delete the existing tags to place all internal lines and surfaces back on the tag layer. Then start creating the tags you need like walls, for instance, and assign the outside group to these specific tags you using the tagging tool. By following this approach, you can avoid issues with lines or surfaces being misplaced or disappearing when toggling tags. At the same time, you will remain the ability to hide specific objects when needed. If I have previously suggested a different method, feel free to disregard it. This new approach is far more efficient and eliminates the common problems associated with tags. I hope you find this video helpful. If you have any further questions or run into challenges, let me know. I'd happy to create another video for you. Have a great day and see you soon. 107. BONUS SketchUP 2024 - Ambient Occlusion Style: Hi guys. So we're so excited to see the news that Sketchup has just released their 2024 version a couple of hours ago, and I wanted to immediately try it out and of course give you some feedback about it. In this video, I will talk about two new implementations they have added. We'll talk about the new graphics engine and about the new ambient occlusion styles. The first and I guess best implementation, they have upgraded to a new graphics engine that is supposed to provide faster navigation and responsive. While I opened this big file with multiple texts on, I did notice some orbiting improvements already. However, let me quickly go to my settings. Under the graphic settings, we can now choose between the new graphics engine and the classic graphics engine. I suppose they kept the old one too in case some older computers may not handle it that well. As I mentioned before, I could already feel an improvement in orbiting. But once I turned off the use maximum texture size, it was way, way better. I did notice a huge performance improvement compared to the 2023 version. It took maybe one or 2 minutes to be applied, but definitely they have done something wonderful here. I don't have those bounding boxes when orbiting around as before. So I wanted to check the new speed for the sketch up warehouse. As I remembered, it got slow in 2023. Even that has improved and now it's faster than before to get models into already big files. Anyway, for those of you who know me from my course, I usually tend to download furniture in a separate file. But you could see importing from the warehouse directly is faster already. Now we can also switch between scenes in almost light speed, even clicking on layers become faster. Well guys, there's nothing left to say get the 2024 version, Speed has increased. That's great. Now let's have a look at another fun update. They have incorporated the ambient occlusion style. For those of you who are not familiar with styles in general, usually when selecting a template and sketch up, it automatically has assigned a specific styles to your file, but you can always adjust the style afterwards. Open the styles in your Mac or on the Windows you have fit already with the rest of your windows. On the side you can see that I have the default template activated, which is under default interior. Now this tap here is new and it's called ambient occlusion. I guess they want to try to make the views more realistic by adding shadows. I have tried out those styles, Most of them wouldn't be something I would particularly use, but I had a closer look to the interior specific and the exterior specific style. They definitely look more realistic in general compared to the standard style. However, you need to reduce the shadow transparency and update it temporary. Now to make it look even more realistic, we can turn on our sun. Change the sun direction. Now I noticed my lines seem a little glory. I can adjust my edge setting color maybe to something darker. Now let's compare both styles. I found this great. This adds so much dimension and shadows to the overlook and pretty much looks like a rendering. So yeah, this is something I would definitely use for my project, especially after making those small adjustments by decreasing the shadows turning on my sun. And yeah, this combination works great. Now I think those two new improvements make it already worth it to download and install the new thousand 24 sketch up version. Maybe in the next couple of days I will create some more videos talking about further implementations. Hope you like this video and can't wait to try out the new version. Have a wonderful day. 108. BONUS SketchUP 2024 - Create a sharable link: Hi, guys, as promised, I'm back with another video showcasing the exciting Sketch up 2024 update. This time, I want to highlight this seamless process of sharing your sketchu projects with your client. A now you can effortlessly generate a viewable link that your clients can open and any browser to explore the project in more detail. So let's get started. Here, have one of my kitchen projects, my Santa Monica project that I want to share with my client. And as you can see, I have multiple scenes in here as well. I obviously used the new ambient occlusion for my scenes to make it look more realistic. Now, let's have a look at how I can share this file with my client. First, select file, Trimble Connect, share a link. A new pop up will appear, saying that you need to actually save this file first to Trimble Connect in order to share it. So let's save it to Trimble Connect. Usually, this should be P if you're just starting to save anything in your Trimble account. I have previously tested this, so I have another project in here. I'm just going to save it inside this one, just as a test. It doesn't matter that much right now. I just want to show you quickly how it's done. So I double click inside the project and save my file. Notice the right symbol on here. Before it was a document symbol, meaning I had it saved on my desktop. Now it will change to a cloud. Be aware that once you do that, your file will not be updated on your desktop any longer if you click on safe. It will be now saved in the Trimble Connect Cloud. But you can always log in back into your Trimble Connect to download the file if you wish to have it saved on your computer as well. Okay, now that my file is saved in Trimble Connect. Another window automatically opened up here where I can simply click on Create a sharable link. Now I can just copy this link, send it to my client, and he can easily view the kitchen project in his or her browser. This is the file opened in a simple browser. It took a bit of time to load, but once it did, this is exactly what you will get. Let's have a quick look what options we have. We have a select tool. Then this is nice. The client can actually use the tape measurement tool to reject some measurements in here as well. Then we have the hand tool, and orbit tool, and some Zoom options, and of course, the camera position tool. You can see it's a view only version of this file, so your client can't really move or break anything in here. On the right side under entity info, you could let the animation of your scenes play here, even though it is a bit slow for me. I could try another browser maybe that will speed it up, but just so you know. You can actually choose different scenes under my scenes. Certainly, if your client is not so computer handy, maybe just stick to a top down perspective where he can just use the orbit tool and move around. I'm sure he will be already impressed. You could even display tags if you have some and some more information about your model. Now, let me actually remove the table with the chairs in my sketch up model. Save it and see what happens. Okay. So after making some adjustments and saving my file, moving back to my browser and refreshing the link. You can see it does update new changes you have made previously. So for instance, if your client ask you to adjust something in the project, you can now easily make the changes, save the file, and since it's saved and Trimble Connect, it will be reflected for your client using the same link. Okay, guys, I hope you like this quick video and can't wait to share your projects. Now, super easy with a sharable link. See you soon, have a wonderful day. 109. BONUS Boost your SketchUp Performance: Hi guys. Have you ever felt that using sketch up gets slow with time? Some people face this challenge, especially if they're new to sketch up. There's some reasons your sketch up model can become slow. In this video, we will talk about what is causing the slowdown and how to improve your overall performance and workflow. This is the house I'm teaching in my ultimate sketch up course and it's a great example as it is a big file with multiple rooms, furniture, and materials. In my course, I basically teach you from the beginning on how to create and maintain a clean file. First of all, let me show you the computer I'm working with. I'm working with an Imac from 2020 with a 3.36 score. I five processor. Not the newest, but still works Great. My graphic card is an AMD Radion Pro 5,300 with four gigabyte. Those are pretty standard for this type of Imac. Now in 2024, I'm sure you even get better computers. Tip number one, increased memory, Ram. If you have the budget, I recommend to upgrade your Ram memory. I think my Mac came with four or eight gigabyte, I can't remember. But I was able to upgrade my Mac with a total of 48 gigabyte Ram. It was truly a game changer and helped me in handling huge sketch up files without this constant loading symbol. My next tip, number two, work with tags or layers. I see some people like to create tags or so called layers for everything, for doors, for windows, for floors. That is very excessive and won't help you with your workflow. If you're taking my course, you will see that I create certain layers that make sense to me. For instance, I create tags for single rooms. I place all my furniture on this single tag. When I'm done working with one specific room, I turn off my tag, then start creating a new tag for the next room, and so on. You don't have to follow exactly this workflow. You can define your own tags. What I mean is to make it in a way you can turn them off when not needed. As the more furniture and accessories sketch up needs to load every time you orbit around, the slower your file can get. Tip number three, perch unused while working or before saving your file. At the end of the day, take a moment to navigate to window model info, choose statistics and hit Perch unused. If you are doing this on an older file and have never cleared unused components, materials, styles, and tags, the process might take some time, especially if you have directly loaded furniture and materials into your working file. In such cases, it's best to let it run and complete the cleaner process. So do not run into this issue. I recommend tip number four. Don't load furniture and accessories directly into your file. As I mentioned earlier, the temptation to directly grab furniture from the sketch up warehouse and insert it into your ongoing design project can be strong. However, there's a significant drawback to this approach. Those files come from various creators and they might be quite messy. When you load a furniture piece, you are bringing in not just the item but also its styles, tags, materials, and components. For beginners who might not be familiar with regularly perching unused elements, this can lead to a great deal slowdown of your project file. Here's the helpful practice I follow. Instead of directly placing furniture into my main project, I open a separate file alongside my project. In this separate file, I load all the furniture and accessories, giving me a chance to tidy up the file by removing unnecessary tags and perching unused elements. Only after this cleanup, I do copy and place the refined furniture into my actual design project. It's crucial to note that if you decide to remove a piece from your project after placing it, the materials and components from that piece might still linger in your project. That's where a regular use of the perch unused function becomes essential to both your sketch up warehouse importing file and your current design project. If you notice that loading some furniture pieces from the warehouse becomes slow. In general, consider downloading it to your desktop and import it from there instead of placing it directly from the warehouse. Tip number five, anti allized texture in the window Model Info section under the rendering tab, you will find a small checkbox related to using anti allaized textures. This option is designed to enhance the visual quality of textures by smoothing their edges, reducing the jacked or pixilated appearance. Here's a practical tip. When actively working on your files and smooth texture previews are not a priority, you can uncheck this option. This can help speed up your workflow and preserve system performance. However, when it comes time to create video presentations or showcase your file to a client, it's a good practice to turn on anti ellized textures. This setting ensures a more polished and refined look. Smoothing out texture edges for visually appealing results. Just remember, toggling this option based on your current task can contribute to an optimized performance experience. Take a screenshot, so you don't forget about this setting. Next tip, number six, Open GL settings. Now the next setting you can adjust is under Sketch Up Preferences. You can find it under open GL or Graphics, depending on the sketch up version you're using. Be careful, this setting is going to be set for all future sketch up projects you will open as this is a general setting not related to one specific model. These two check boxes can slow down your performance, especially the used maximum texture size. If you have a normal sized model, you can consider keeping it on, but if you're working with huge files, you can turn it off. During your time of your design process, you will notice that images or materials may be lowered in quality, which will help during your modeling process. Again, if you need to showcase your file to your client, just click it back on. Take a screenshot so you don't forget about this setting as well. Lastly, tip number seven, adjust the current style depending on the template selected. When creating your model initially a specific style becomes activated on sketch up to check the active style. Navigate to window styles and select in model. If you're working on the windows, you find the window within your other windows. On the right side here, you will find the current active style. In my case, I have my own styles active, which I also share in my course with you. They have been adjusted to look more crisp and clean. However, you might have chosen an interior template or another version. Locate the surface icon, which is the second one typically shaded with textures is active. If you are not currently working with textures and are focusing solely on modeling for building, consider switching to just shaded. This turns off the materials and you can always switch back to shaded with textures when needed. This adjustment can strongly contribute to better performance, especially when handling large files. Another significant factor in the style setting is the setting for edges represented by the first icon, while edges enhance the visual appeal. They can slow down your model when there are too many edges that sketch up needs to render. Therefore, you can turn off this setting while actively working and switch it back on before presenting your project. Now let's take a look at the notable improvement in my performance while orbiting. I'm working with an increased Ram memory with nearly all tax active, I'm confident that selectively enabling only the tax relevant to the rooms I'm working on will further enhance the speed after perching unused entities. Turning off the antialyzed unchecking, the use maximum texture size and adjusting my style, particularly the edges. I can already witness a significant boost in the fluidity of orbiting within my file. Okay guys, feel free to share your thoughts. I believe this insight can immensely be beneficial, especially if you're facing speed challenges. And sketch up for me, maintaining a clean file is the top priority for a truly enjoyable design creation experience. Wishing you all a wonderful day. 110. BONUS How to fix broken materials: Hi, guys. So today's video, I would like to address something I'm sure you have all come across with. Let's say I wanted to apply this texture to my blanket. Once I import my material into my colors in model section and apply it, it becomes distorted and broken. When I started using sketch up, it was so frustrating and I was in fact impressed how easy I can actually fix this problem. So let's have a look how. The key lies in creating a similar size rectangle and place it to the next object. It has to be somewhat in similar perspective and size. So in this case, it's top down. Then I apply my material to this rectangle and here comes the trick. We select the surface, click, right, texture, and choose protected. Now, we select the bucket tool and use its integrated sampling function by holding down the command key on a mac or the t key on the winners computer to sample this new projected material. Now we can go back inside our blanket group and apply the seamless material that is now projected. T, we got rid of those broken pieces. I could now change the scale of this material by editing this material in size. Now, let's have a look at how I would do that for a throw pillow. The problem in most cases is that we don't have a singulars texture, especially if we need to showcase the specific pillow that we want to purchase later on. So we need to create a screenshot or cut the image in a way that it only has the material visible, not a white background or other backgrounds. Then I import this screenshot again and create another rectangle or square that has a similar size and place it next to my pillow. Then I apply material again, and of course, change it into a projected material. Now, you can see it's not a seamless material, so we might see the corners, and we need to position it in a way that it will be projected on our left pillow correctly. This maybe moving the rectangle to to the right to the top or sometimes scaling it a tiny bit bigger. Somehow sketch up is saving those information and the placement. As I said, it's only needed when not using seamless materials, and we only have a certain size that we need to project. It's visible once I start applying my material to the other pillow, you see it's saved the position of the previous seamless texture. But you can certainly just copy this ready one. But of course, just for you to understand how to fix the problem by simply moving the square a little bit to the sides or scaling it up a bit until you get the projection of your materials that you're happy with. Alright, guys. I hope this trick served as an epiphany moment for you all. Catch you my next videos. 111. BONUS Why are my tags (layers) are jumping up?: Hi, this is Anna. Today's class, we will have a quick look at why your texts, or so called layers, are jumping when you toggle them on and off in sketch up. Let's have a look if you have encountered the issue of tags, formerly known as layers, jumping to the top of your list when turning them off, there's an easy fix. During your modeling process, you might have accidentally clicked on the small top left corner causing Sketch up to sort your tags by visibility. This way once you turn them off, they jump to the top. To fix this issue, simply click once on the tag name until you see a little arrow appearing. This action will sort your tags by names. Eliminating this problem. See you soon. 112. BONUS Create seamless texture from any image: Hi guys, it's Anna from Bilikahams Design Academy. In this class, I'm going to reveal how to create seamless textures and sketch up using an image of your choice. For those who don't know the difference, basically a seamless texture that you can use and sketch up can be applied horizontally or vergically in an endless loop while looking clean. The problem in sketch up is that if you simply import an image as a texture that wasn't prepared in a way that the edges align well on each side, you end up with something that looks like this. You can see that the pattern here is not aligned and we have the small border on the side from the image. That's because Sketch Up is mapping this image multiple times in a row and above. How do we create something that looks like this texture and make use of the image that we found? Let's have a look. The very first thing you would want to do is to import your image using a mag. You can simply track and drop it inside the window. It's best to know the actual size of the tile in order to scale it up to its correct size and sketch up, you can use the tape measurement tool for this. My single tiles are all 77 millimeters by 77 millimeters, or three by 3 ". I'm going to switch to the top view by clicking right Explode. The image becomes automatically a texture and can be now found in the colors in model section. Now we can select the surfaces. Let's create a rectangle over the correct size of one of the tiles and move it to the side. I will actually add the grout thickness in here by moving my lines. Obviously, it depends how thick you want your grout to be. This can range, In this example, I choose 3 millimeters or one of an eight inch. I'm also using the scaling tools to make my material look a bit more straight. Now that it looks clean, we can do the same for the wide tile. After that, we can copy both to the top and to the side. Now let me pause here for a second. What you need to understand with seamless textures is that the corners will be mapped by sketch up and repeated on the other end. Keep that in mind. When creating seamless textures with a C tangle of square shape, this is very easy, but if you have a more complex shape, you need to think how the edges will be repeated or mapped on the other side. Have a look at this herring wound shape. You can see that I have placed the piece that is cut on one end and placed it on the other side. The same for the top and the bottom. This way it aligns sketch up, can handle this kind of texture and will map it automatically in a row. Back to our checkered tiles. I select all surfaces and edges. If I click right, I need to find the option that says combined textures. If it is not visible, it means Sketch up can't merge the faces together. We need to make them unique by clicking right, Make Unique Texture. Now once we select all surfaces and edges, we can click right again, And now it appears and we can select Combined textures. Click Yes, and now we have a seamless texture, just as a comparison with the image that we previously had. You can see that it's not mapped correctly, and our seamless texture now can basically map the image in any size we want. We can now select the material with our color picker using the old key on a Mac or control key on the windows, and apply this material to our wall surface. Now there's another way if you wish to change the grout color, for instance, you need to copy the squares and don't move your lines for the grout, simply leave a gap and then you can create a rectangle over it. Since it's going to be mapped, I only need the grout on two edges as otherwise they will be duplicated. I removed there in the lines if there are any, and since it's a surface I can choose any groat color I like. Now as this is a texture and the color surface sketch up can handle those better. And immediately shows us the option to combine textures. I have to say it does look a bit flatter than the left one, but if you need your grout to have a specific color or you have an image that doesn't have a grout at all. This is the way to go. Make sure to visit my sketch up warehouse by typing in Palica Homes. Move over to the collection folder, and here you can find multiple furniture and accessory pieces and also seamless textures that you can use freely for your projects. See you soon. 113. BONUS Scaling with SketchUp: Hi guys. Today I'm going to show you a quick and handy trick and sketch up. I literally use this all the time. Let's imagine the following. I saw this kitchen on social media somewhere and I was wondering how wide are the cabinets, especially for the upper part. Maybe you're new to design, and wondering how other designers have constructed their kitchens, their cabinetry. But you don't have access to their plans. So let's say we want to know the width of this upper cabinetry and also how much backsplash this designer used. This example is not the previous kitchen. I know I had to use some royalty free images, but anyway, it's enough to showcase how it works. Also know that you need to have somewhat a frontal perspective of the image, unless you are a genius at math, which I'm not. So I use sketch up to help me. The first thing is to import this image you found into sketch up. Now find any reference that is pretty standard. Obviously, this is a standard oven and I believe most of the countries, they use an oven which is about 600 millimeters or 23.4 ", for sure. This is a great reference, we can use sometimes. It can also be a door height, but this is more different at times. An oven in this example is the perfect reference to use. How do I scale my image? Show this oven is 600 millimeters. First I click on my image, then I select my tape measurement tool and start clicking on the very left edge of my oven. And click another time on the very right of my oven. Obviously, it is not up to scale right now. While I don't move my mouse, after I have done my two clicks, I can simply type in the correct measurement of, in this example, 600 millimeters or the inches. If you're watching from the US Now, Sketch up understands you wish to scale this image. You click yes. Now we have our image scaled. We can recheck the measurement by creating guides. Anything that falls along this perspective line allows us to examine the measurements in more detail. We can now create some guides with the tape measurement tool to check our upper cabinet width. As we see most likely, the designer has used the upper cabinets in 500 millimeters or 90.7 ". The back splash height is about 770 millimeters, or 30.3 ", which makes sense since this is a gas cook top. How about the drawers? I'm curious to know the height. The kickboard is 17 millimeters. Okay. Next they use a drawer of maybe 300 or 305. Then some space in between For the shark he pole of 30 millimeters and so on. Now let's have a look at how high they actually hung those island pendants. As this is not the same perspective line anymore, it's more to the front. We have to have a new reference in order to scale it up. Again, we actually know that standard kitchens have a standard benchtop height, 880-930 millimeters. Let's see what I got in here, 915. This makes sense, as the countertop is super slim, that must be about 50 millimeters. We can now use this reference to rescale our image as islands usually have the same height as the rest of the kitchen benchtop. I can delete my guides and start scaling the image the same way we just did creating guides again. And now we can see they have used the space of about 760 millimeters between the bench top height and the bottom of the pendant. What do you guys think? Scaling images in Sketch Up is a powerful tool to extracting measurements from inspirational images. It's a great help for planning and designing, especially if you're new to interior design. I hope you find the step useful in your projects. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Have a wonderful day. 114. BONUS Preventing Furniture Distortion: Distorting furniture while scaling and sketch up is a common issue. This lesson will guide you through the steps to avoid such distortions and ensure more accurate adjustments for your furniture pieces. Here I have a boucle bench I created myself. You can find this bench and other furniture and accessory pieces in my warehouse. Simply search for Alka homes, head over to my profile and find the piece under the collection folders, important. Always check the scale first when downloading from the sketch up warehouse. Since some creators start building pieces without actually building it based on real furniture measurements, they can end up being huge or tiny. The challenge lies in navigating in the three D space with a sketch up where objects can appear normal sized, no matter if you zoom in or out. Therefore, it becomes crucial to employ guides and precise measurements. If you are very unexperienced in understanding standard dimensions for certain furniture pieces, I would recommend to search for examples of certain pieces, like a bench, a bed, and investigate standard dimensions for those furnitures. To address this, I initiate the creation of guides and sketch up using the tape measurement tool, by holding down my arrow keys, I can meticulously establish the furniture width, length, and height of the objects. Now imagine a scenario where a piece of furniture appears either too large or too small upon retrieval from the warehouse. Though such issues won't happen if you download some of my pieces, but occasionally you will meet those oversized dinosaurs in the warehouse. So let's say this bench came out to huge from the warehouse. I can now scale it down to a standard bench height of 450 millimeters or 70.7 ". Have my future guides in place. And I uniformly scale it by holding down the control key on Windows or the option key on a Mac until it is properly sized. When it comes to its height. Now that it's somewhat realistically sized, I can start adjusting it when it comes to its length. I would like to make this bench longer to match my future measurements length. Let's say this bench is going to be 1,800 millimeters long. I'm sure the first thing you will want to try to do is to apply the scale tool on the whole group. Sometimes it can work for certain furniture pieces. I don't say, don't use it. The problem of that is, once you start to use the scale tool on the whole group, the material starts to look distorted and also the bottom feet start to get wider. You know what I mean? What can you do instead? Start investigating how the component or group that you have retrieved was actually built. Meaning, click your way through the groups or the component and investigate if there are more groups or if the whole group or component is an open source. If it contains multiple groups and signed the main group on component, that's great. As you can start moving those single objects like the feet to another spot without sacrificing them to get to wide. Then you can even go deeper inside one of the single group, like the middle part here, until you can select the surfaces and edges, ensure precise selection by choosing the correct sections of the surfaces and edges while excluding the upper surfaces. In some instances, moving the lines along the edges can automatically move the surfaces with them. If materials are already applied to the surface, they will remain in place and sketch up will seamlessly continue within the existing texture. Remember, always begin by examining the overall measurements of the piece obtained from the warehouse. If adjustments are required, consider scaling uniformly up or down. Keeping an eye out for the possibility that the item may already be in its original size. In such cases, tweaking the width or length alone might be sufficient. Instead of relying solely on the scale tool for the entire group, delve into understanding how the furniture piece is constructed. Experiment with moving individual objects or lines and surfaces. Sometimes it's a matter of strategic combinations of those. My experience, the aesthetics of furniture often better preserved this way instead of scaling the entire group as a whole. Hope this little tip will help you in rethinking your process when it comes to adjusting furniture to a different size. See you soon. 115. BONUS Create 3D Panels around curved structures: Hi, everyone. Welcome back to another video tutorial. Have you ever wondered how to create fluted panels around a circular structure or a kitchen island? Well, in this video, I'm going to show you exactly how to do that. Let's get started. Here's the kitchen island I have built, and we will be placing fluted panels all around it. We will also create a round pillar to support the island benchtop. I have already duplicated the kitchen island to the left side to give myself some more room to work. Step one, outline the area for the panels. The first step is to create and outline where the panels will be placed. I'm basically copying the existing circular shape, pasting it in place and moving it to the side to use as a future guide. Next, we will draw a straight line and copy it next to our circular guide. Then we also need a line for the side, where the panels will be wrapped around. You can either draw this line from scratch or copy it from existing geometry. That's totally up to you. The goal is to create a guide, so SketchUp knows where to place the panels later on. Right now, these lines are separated. So let's select them all. Then we click right and choose weld edges. This will connect them into one continuous line. Now when we select or click on the line, it's all interconnected. Step number two, let's measure the total length of the future shape. The next step is to open the entity info panel, where we can check the total length of the welded line we have just created. In this example, it's 4,166.7 millimeters. Now we select the line tool and create a straight line with this exact length. Essentially, if you were to extend the curved guided line we have just created into a straight one, it would measure the exact same length. I will now group this straight line, as you know, lines are sticky, and I don't want it to stick to my panel. We can always ungroup it in future steps. Step three, create the panel shape. Now let's design our panel shape. I'm going with a 35 millimeter wide and 20 millimeter deep panel. You can use guides to help you draw the shape. Whether you want a rounded, a square triangle panel, it's entirely up to you. Use sketch, drawing shapes, and line tool to create a flat two D representation of your future panel design. Mine is going to be rounded. Once you have created the shape, select it along with its edges and generate a component. Then use the star symbol option to create multiple copies of this component along the length of the straight line we have just created earlier. Select all the components, but deselect the guided line and group the two D panel components together. We now have a group of components. Now we can the line we have just previously grouped by it. Step four, push pull the panels to their full height. Next, we will use the push pull tool to give the panels their full future height. In this example, the panel will be 900 millimeters tall. Just below the benchtop, since the panels are components, they will all be pushed out at the same time. And Step five. Use the shape vendor extension. At this point, we will use an amazing and free extension called Shape vendor by Chris Fullmer. You can download it from the extension warehouse. Just search for Shape vendor and install it. Let's see how to use it. The first thing to do is select the group of panel components. Then we start the shape vendor extension tool. You will notice a little line on your selection tool. However, over the straight line we have created earlier, and click once. It worked. Once you see the end text appear and a wavy symbol on your select tool. With this ave symbol active, click on the curved line. Don't move your mouse. Wait for a few seconds as sketch up needs to generate the panels. Once you see the panels appear in green, press enter, and there will be created. And here we have our finished panels. Isn't this easy? Just follow the steps and you can create fluted panels around any round edge. Now let's move these panels and place them around the kitchen island. I took me actually a while to figure all this out, but I'm so happy to got to know this little secret that now I can share with you all. As I remember before, it took me forever to move one panel one by one and rotate it manually. This is so much easier. Now, since our island is floating, we will actually need to add a round pillar. We will follow the same process. I'm creating a circle with 160 millimeter radius and remove the face inside. Quick note. Shape bender doesn't seem to work with closed shapes as far as I have tried, so we need to break the circle by exploding the curve. I will then draw a tiny small line to break the circle by removing a piece from it, creating or generating a tiny gap basically, which won't be noticeable later on, but just so the tool can work with this line. After breaking the circle, we need to melt the edges again to form a continuous line. Now we do or repeat the same steps as before. We generate a straight line of the same length as the curve. We copy an existing panel shape or create a new one as we have done in the beginning. Generate components. Group the components and use the push pool to extend the panels to its correct height. Then we select the grouped components. Use the shape bander tool, click again on the guided line. Then onto the curved line and wait a bit. Now, what we see here is that our panels are actually facing inwards. If this happens, just press escape, ate the panels just to the other side of the guided line, and repeat the steps again. This time, they should have bent correctly outwards. And here we have our rounded pillar. May not be perfect, but I think it gets the job done, especially for presenting your idea to a client or a builder. For the final touch, let's move the pillar and place it under the kitchen island. And there you have it. In just under 10 minutes, we have created fluted panels around the curved structure. If you want to see the full video on how I built this entire kitchen in just 1 hour, be sure to sign up for my interior hub through my website, where I share not only more sketch of tutorials, but also all my furniture and material files with you. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and I'll see you in the next one. 116. BONUS How to fix blurry imports: Hi, everyone. I'm back with a really quick video. One of my students lately mentioned when she is importing a JPEG or PNG file into sketch, she always ends up having a really bad display quality that makes it impossible to read the dimensions. Well, guys, there's a very easy fix to that. By default, some of the sketcher versions tend to have one setting unchecked. Let's fix that. Simply go to your sketch references head over to graphics on the left section. And simply check on the use maximum texture size. This will immediately increase your disp quality. However, another tip I want to mention, if you were to work with PDF files instead of JPEG or PNG files, by importing this with the checkbox on, you won't gain the same results as sketch up tend to work better with image files instead of PDFs. Those cases, I would strongly recommend just taking a screenshot or saving your PDF file as a JPEG or PNG file, and import that instead. You will definitely see better results and now you're able to create this floor plan and sketch up with clear measurements. I hope you find this quick video useful. Se and the next one, 117. ✨ ✨ FINAL WORDS ✨ ✨ : Congratulations on completing the ultimate sketch up course for interior designers and students. Throughout the course, you have mastered sketch up and layout. And I'm sure with this new set of skills, you will not only elevate your interior design projects, but also impress your clients with beautiful designs. I would love to see your new projects, so feel free to tag me in one of your new creations. Boy, share your file with me for a personalized feedback. Don't forget to follow me on Instagram, Facebook, Youtube, and subscribe to my channels. Thank you for being part of this learning experience. May your creativity shine through all your interior design projects.