Transcripts
1. Introduction to Building a Spool Holder: Hello and welcome to another
beginner woodworking class. This is an easy project you
can complete in a little over an hour with minimal
tools and materials. If you're a maker like me, you might need a place to
store all your thread spools. Sure, you could buy
one at the store that will probably fall
apart and about a year. Or you can make your own custom
to your space and needs. Plus, once you've built one, you can build
another and another. As your thread
collection gets out of hand, I won't tell anyone. Oh, bonus if you
don't have thread, but we'd like to hang washi
tape or a ribbon or heck, even electrical tape or keys. This project can be adapted
to suit your needs. I'm so cow would girl and I'm a creator in sunny Los Angeles. I've been building and crafting wooden objects large and
small for over a decade. And I am obsessed with passing on my love of
carpentry through accessible, fun, and engaging
classes that will help you tackle whatever
project you dream of. I've been featured
in family handyman for my one woman
kitchen remodel, and I've been teaching on
Skillshare since 2019. I hope you'll join me on a
journey of empowerment and skill-building as we create what we've imagined
project by project. In this basics of
woodworking class, we'll create a spool holder
from start to finish. We'll cover an overview
of school holders, design materials and
supplies needed, making our cuts, assembly, finishing, and then
final thoughts. This class is aimed
at students with zero understanding
of woodworking. Access and experience using
tools is always helpful, but it's not required. Some basic tools are necessary. Strong scissors or wire
cutters, measuring tape, sandpaper, paintbrush,
paint, optional, hands-off or flush cuts, Aw drill drill bits, three-sixteenth, 1,364.3,
32, angle square. Brad Naylor also optional
clips with 25 inch reach or more or strong rope glue and one and a
quarter inch screws
2. Overview: A spool holder is a great way to organize your threads
so that they're easily accessible and you don't lose track of what colors
you already have. Anyone else go out and buy
thread they already own? Yeah, you can organize the threads by color
so your workflow is quicker and you
don't have to guess at what you have
already available. Putting them on a
spool holder keeps the threads from getting all
tangled up with one another. No more, throwing them in a box or a drawer and digging through. Let's get that thread or
ribbon or washi tape, or even keys up and on display
3. Design: Okay guys, I have designed
this holder to be used standing on a table
or hung on the wall. It's up to you. The legs fold up
when not in use. So there's some
adaptability there. I've calculated this holder for the average size thread
spool about 2 " tall. There's also two variations
in how you make this holder. If you have a Brad Naylor, you won't need a top and
bottom apron for structure. And you can squeeze an
extra legend there. But if you don't have a
brand, Naylor, no worries. I tested this with just glue and after
an overnight drying, the ledges were perfectly
strong enough to hold schools. So long as you have the top and bottom apron holding
it all together. Now you can of course, adapt
this holder for different size thread spools or
different objects. The base design
remains the same. I wanted minimal cutting
with this project. So the only cuts
you'll be making are on the dowels that
hold the schools, the legs that prop up the
holder and the ledges. The parts of this holder
will be the sides, the ledges, the legs, the dowels that hold the spools, and optionally aprons
for the top and bottom. If you don't have a Brad Naylor, the sides will be made
by these three-quarter inch thick cardboard
squares you can find in the hardwoods section
of your Home Depot or Lowe's or similar big-box store. They come in standard at 24 ". So we're making the sides exactly 24 ", no cutting needed. The legs will be made
out of 1.5 inch thick square dowels that can be
found in the molding aisle. They come in at 36 " so you can get both legs out
of the Wonderwall. Legs will be attached by simple
machine screws with nuts. And they can articulate
back-and-forth. The schools will sit on three-sixteenth
inch thick dowels, which are also in
the molding section. These are bought at 48 " long. The ledges will be
cut from this molding called Pine door
and window stop. I like that. These are three-eighth
inch thick, which allows you more ledges, but with adequate space in
which to rest your thread. If you're unable to find
this at your store, you can alternatively use the same half-inch thick
squared dowels for the ledges, but will change the length of the ledgers so that you
can get to ledges out of each towel will be putting D ring hooks on the back of the holder so it can
hang on the wall. So let's take a
look at the design. Overall, the width of our
holder is going to be 22.5 ". This accounts for 20 1 " ledges and to three-quarter inch sides. The ledges will be
tilted forward slightly. The sides will be 24 ", making the holder 24 " tall. The legs will be 16 " long, which gives just the right
amount of support to lean on. The dowels will be one every one and three-quarter
inch space apart, putting 11 on each ledge. Now please note
that this is going to vary just a little bit. If you have the shorter ledges because you weren't able to
find the pine stop molding. But I'll go over that later.
4. Materials and Supplies: It's time to gather all of
our materials and supplies. We'll start with the tools. You'll need some strong
scissors or wire cutters, also known as cutting pliers. You'll need drill
and drill bits, specifically
three-sixteenth, 1,364.3, 32, a hands-off flush cuts all jigsaw or miter
saw, sandpaper, rafter or angle square, and optional Brad
Naylor clamps with 25 inch of reach
or more wood glue, one in a quarter-inch
screws, number 1032, one-and-a-half inch
machine screws with nuts, you'll need to total and D ring hangers you'll be using
to for your wood. There are variance. If you have a brand Naylor, you won't need to have a
top and bottom apron to hold the whole spool
holder as a frame. Brad nails will hold
all the ledges in place enough that it will provide
the structure that you need. This also means that you can get one extra legs out of this, giving you 111 schools
rather than 90. If you don't have a Brad Naylor
and we'll be using glue. You'll also buy two extra
hardwood square dowels for your top and bottom apron. If you have a Brad Naylor, you will not need to buy those two extra hardwoods squares. So here's the list for with Brad Naylor and without
with broad Naylor, five three-sixteenth thick
by 48 inch long dowels, one square del half-inch
thick by 36 " long. This is located just above the three-sixteenths
towels in the molding. I'll 18 ft of one
and a quarter by 38 inch thick pine
door and window stop, also in the molding aisle, and to three-quarter thick by two foot-long
hardwood squares. You can find this
in the hardwood. I'll if you don't have a brad nail or get
all of the above, but 16 ft of pine
door and window stop and two more three-quarter
thick cardboard squares. Now, if you can't source the
pine stop and have a brand Naylor also by another six
half inch square dowels. If you don't have a
Brad Naylor by five
5. Cuts: Before you cut, please
follow all safety guidance. Cover your ears, eyes and mouth, and pull back any long hair. First, we're going to cut
a spacer blocks to make things go quickly and
with consistency. Each doll is going to be one
and three-quarter inch long. So cut a scrap piece of
wood at that length. You'll also be using
this space or block to space out your dowels
on the ledges. So you'll use it twice. Now cut your dowels
to hold your schools. Each one will be cut at one
three-quarter inch long. This was pretty easy
with the wire cutter, but you can use the flush cut or hands-off for this as well. Try to keep them as consistent
in length as possible. You'll be cutting
anywhere 90-110 of these. Hold up that space or
block to each one and cut. We have to attach dowels
before we attach the ledges. So this is one of
the first steps. After you've cut them,
give them a bit of a sand on the end so that you
have a smooth top. You'll cut 90 if you don't
have a broad Naylor, 110, if you do, next, cut your half-inch
thick squared L 16 ", cut another, these
are your legs. If you don't have
a Brad Naylor cut your top and bottom apron from the three-quarter
inch hardwoods square two of them at 21 " long. If you were unable to source the pine stop molding
for the ledges. Don't have a broad Naylor
and we'll be using the half inch square dolls
for the ledgers instead, you'll cut your aprons at 17 ". And finally cut your ledges. Take your pine stop
and cut ten pieces at 21 " if you have
a bread, Naylor, if you don't cut nine at 21 ", give a light hand
sand to all cut ends of the wood,
including the legs. Now, if you were unable to source that pine
stop for the ledges, cut your half-inch
thick square dolls at 17 " long and cut ten of them. If you don't have
a broad Naylor, 11, if you do
6. Assembly: Here's the fun part. This is going to go
by so fast and easy, you're going to wonder
why you haven't made one of these before. So first, pull all
your ledges out. We're going to make holes
for the dowels to sit in. Take your three-sixteenth
inch bit and tape it off a quarter-inch
from the point. This will be your
depth guide to keep you from drilling
through the wood. Now with each of your ledges, There's a flat edge
and around edge. Make the round edge, the front of each ledge and keep it consistent
throughout. Make marks every one
and three-quarter inches using that
space or block from the dowel cutting and place it a quarter-inch from the
front of the ledge. We want to be careful
not to drill too closely to the edge or
the wood might splinter. Once you've made
all of your marks, there should be
11 on each ledge, unless you have 17 inch ledges. Drill your holes, stopping
when you reach the tape guide. The dolls fit pretty well
with a friction fit, but we're going to put just a little bit of glue
in there as well. Place a dab of glue and each hole instead of
dowel in each one, lightly tapping with a mallet or hammer if needed
to set it fully n. Next, we're going to mark the settings for our
ledges on the sides. This is much easier to do
before assembling anything. Make a mark three
quarter of an inch up from the bottom of each side. Now, each leg is going to
be tilted towards the front to allow for ease in pulling the spools on and
off the holder. Make your mark with an angle of 45 degrees pointed
towards the front. If you happen to have a
minor saw with the laser, you can set the miter and markup where the laser hits up to you. Do this on each side, the front of the angle ending
at that three-quarter mark. Now we're going to repeat
this up each side giving 2.5 " of space
in-between each angle. Measure your marks from
the front of the allege, not the top of the angle
on the back of the ledge. If you don't have
a broad Naylor, you're going to
do nine ledges to leave room for an apron up top. If you have a brand Naylor, go ahead and mark
for ten ledges, taking you nearly to the top. Next, make a mark 15.25 " up from the bottom of
each side in the center, take your 13, 64 bit and drill a hole clean through
the wood on each side. Insurance from the inside of
the side where you marked your ledge placement to the
outside, not front-to-back. Now take your half-inch thick 16 inch long legs and make a mark three-quarters of
an inch down from the top. Drill a hole with that same
bit clean through the wood. Test out your number ten one-and-a-half inch machine
screws threaded from the inside of the
sides to the outside of the legs with
the nut on the end. Make sure it pivots. Now take this grew out
and set the legs aside. If you do not have
a Brad Naylor, we're going to go
ahead and attach a top and bottom apron. Take your three-quarter
inch hardwood squares that you cut it 21 " and place one flush with
the tops of your sides. Drill with the 332 inch bit. If you have number six screws or Metro drill bit up with
whatever size Screw you have. Just make sure the
length is between one and a quarter and
one-and-a-half inches. Drive the screw in on each side. Now, do the same with
the bottom apron flush with the
bottom of the sides. Do the same thing if
you're legends will be made from the half-inch
hardwood dowels. But do note that your top and bottom apron is the same length as
the ledges, 17 ". Next we're going to place
our ledges lined up on top of each angle
mark we made earlier. It's easy to move the ledges around as you're placing them. So it might be a good idea
to glue two to three down, clamp it for a few hours, then move on to the next view, letting them sit for
a bit each time. Glue each leg in place until
you've reached the top. Let the glue set. Please note I haven't shown all the ledges in place
for more clarity. Now thread that machine
screw from the inside of the sides onto the legs and
cap it off with the NET. Do this for each leg. Finally, set two pieces of
wood on your surface to rest the top and bottom apron on so as not to crush the dowels. Lay your holder facedown, measure down from the
top of your sides 1 ", drill a small hole and then
screw the D hangers in place. Now if you have a Brad Naylor, this is a little bit tricky, but if you're careful
and take your time, you can do this. Be sure to have proper
safety gear on. Take allege or a spacer that
is 21 " long or 17 " long. If you're using the
alternative ledges and set it between the sides
at the top of your holder. Clamps in place, put glue
on the ends of allege and set it above the angled mark you made at the bottom
of the holder. You might place another
clamp in the middle of the holder to give it
even more stability. Now, very carefully and with 1 " or one and a quarter
inch brad nails place one at the back top of the leg, and one at the front of the
ledge entering from the side. It's easy to miss with such
a thin lead for your target. So take it slow. Watch your fingers and keep them clear of the nails trajectory. Continue to do so
with each ledge gluing the nailing in place. Once the first few are in, you can remove the center clamp. And once you've made
it near the top, this spacer or lead you
place can be removed. Put the final legend
the same way as before. You'll finish this
the same way as those without a brad nail
or dead thread that machine screw from the
inside of the sides onto the legs and cap
it off with the nut. Do this for each leg. Finally set two pieces of
wood on your surface to rest the top and bottom apron on so as not to crush the dowels. Lay your holder facedown, measure down from the
top of your sides 1 ", drill a small hole and then
screw the D hangers in place. And that's it.
7. Finishing: You can leave your holder
own natural if you like, or you can have fun and painted a bunch of
different colors. It's up to you. It
would be super easy to spray paint it all one color
if that suits your fancy to. You can also choose to put little rubber feet
on the ends of the legs and the
sides to ensure it doesn't want to scoot
around on your table. Really, the possibilities
are endless. How fun?
8. Final Thoughts: Now you've built a
spool holder holding anywhere 90-110 schools that can either rest on your craft table or hanging from your wall. You also know how to adapt it for future or a different uses. Way to go fun project, right? I encourage you to keep on
building up your woodshop, acquire tools, dream up new ideas and ways to grow
and take on new challenges. But most importantly, post a picture of your
finished project here. I love to see what you made and how you made it your very own. And lastly, if you
enjoyed this class, would you please consider
leaving a review? Reviews? Let me know that you're liking the classes that I upload and it really also helps other
students find the class. Thank you so much for watching. It means a lot to me
that your journeying in the shop with me,
lesson by lesson. Now let's go build something fun
Brittany Joyner, SoCal WoodGal
