Transcripts
1. Alcohol Ink Techniques for Cardmaking Class Introduction: Hello, I'm Cheryl. Welcome to alcohol ink
techniques for card making. Alcohol inks are one of my
favorite mediums to work with. I love how the inks just
kinda move and flow. And you can't totally, you can kind of predict some
of what's going to happen. But they just kinda do their
own thing and it makes it fun to see what happens and
to create cards with them. In this class, we're
going to be creating seven different cards. Let's go take a look. These are the cards
that were going to be creating in this class. Obviously we have a little bit
of a butterfly theme here, and the color palette
isn't the same throughout, I'm using Ranger alcohol inks, but you can use another brand. I have not used
other brands other than some of the
Jaccard pin yada inks. But they should work
very, fairly similar. Now, you can change any of these colors up to
suit your tastes. And you can also change the stamps and dies up
to suit your tastes. So you can really customize
it to what you like to do. All of these cards
will be pictured on the supply list that
comes in this class. Then the supplies for each
one will also be listed. Those supplies will be
linked to where you can purchase them if you choose. But it's also a great
reference to see exactly what is
used for each card. And that way you don't have
to worry about remembering it while you are watching. Now let's go get started.
2. Let's talk about Alcohol Inks & Surfaces: So before we start creating, let's talk about alcohol inks. So alcohol inks are an
alcohol with color in them. They come in all sorts
of different colors. The the pellet is endless. Basically, you can mix colors together to
make custom ones. The ones that I'm
using are from Ranger, but there's a bunch of
other companies that make them as well. To blend those alcohol inks, I'll be using isopropyl
alcohol for some techniques, alcohol blending
solution for others. And when I'm using the
blending solution, I'll let you know when it's that most of the time it'll
just be the isopropyl. Now, I've worked with alcoholics for probably about 15 years now. And in the last I want
to say about six months, I've heard people
say that you need to use a ventilator
when using them. Now, I never have and I've
never noticed an issue. But I don't work with
alcohol inks all the time. I will do them periodically. I make sure that I have lots of ventilation in the
room that I'm in. I share a room with
our house furnace. So I'm very aware of alcohol and fumes and being
careful and stuff like that. I also tend to rotate
different crafts, so I'll do alcoholics for
awhile and then I'll go do something else
for several months and then come back to them. If you have issues with
smells and stuff like that, make sure that you've got good
ventilation and if you're more comfortable using a
ventilator, absolutely. Do your own research and see
what you're comfortable, comfortable with
and follow that. Now, they will also stain. So you'll notice I'm working
on a black surface here. I clean up between different
cards and stuff like that. But if my black surface happens to stay and
you're not gonna see it, just be prepared
that if you're using a white surface to work on, you're going to have some
standing with the alcoholics, so you'll want to
protect your surface. Same with your fingers. They will stay in your hands. Now personally, we don't
have a dishwasher, so I'm hand washing dishes
several times a day. So usually the staining
doesn't last very long. But if you happen to not want to get staining
on your fingers, use a pair of gloves. So to move the inks around, I have it's actually
a hair tool. I've got the curling
brush taken off of here. There's two speeds on here. And it's a low temp. So you'd want something that doesn't have a lot
of heat to it, but you can control the air. I want low-speed, low airflow, and I want it low temp. For someone starting out, there's something
like this as well. This is a great way to start out rather than investing
in a whole lot of stuff. I think there's around
15, $20 or whatnot. But they're a great way
to move the air around or move the alcohol ink
around and have control, but not invest a lot when you're learning
and starting out. So for surfaces where you're gonna be using several different surfaces
in this class. Most of the time
I'll be using Yuko. You Po is a synthetic paper. It's a plastic paper. But it does not like heat, which is another reason
to use something that is very low temperature so that you're not going
to melt it and warp it. I'm also going to be using
alcohol ink card stock. Now this is a glossy
coded card stock. It's actually got a clay coating on it to give it the
glossy appearance, but it's perfect
for alcohol inks. They just look beautiful on it. Some people have had
success using photo paper. If you have photo paper at home, try it, experiment with it. Personally, I never
liked the look of alcohol inks on photo paper. It just didn't have
the same look as alcohol ink card
stock, in my opinion. But I know there's
other people that use photo paper and are
quite happy with it. So it, like I said,
if you have it, play around with it and try it, you may happen to have a type of photo paper
that works perfectly. Different ones will react
differently as well, depends on what they have
coating their paper. We're also going to use some glitter alcoholic card stock. So this is meant
for alcohol inks. It looks like it's glitter, so it looks like it
has some texture, but it's totally smooth. Then we're also going to use some black alcohol
ink card stock. Now this paper is
really, really cool. It's got a nice sweety finished, so I use it for things
other than alcohol inks. But you have to use it
in a certain way because alcohol inks are transparent, you can't just use regular ones on the
black card stock and expect them to show up. So we'll cover that when
we get to that point. Then the last thing I
didn't grab the package, I'm also using some
clear acetate. Now the one that I'm
using is heat resistant simply because I'm going to do some embossing on top of it. If you want to do the technique, but not emboss an
image on top of it. You can use regular acetate
that will absolutely work. But there we go.
Those are the basics. Now let's make some cards.
3. Alcohol Lift Ink Technique: Creating an Alcohol Ink Background: Alright, so the very
first card we're going to create is this one. And it's kind of a twofer one with this one because
we're going to create this background and
then we're going to lift, we're going to use a stamp
to lift some of the ink up and stamp it onto
glossy card stock. So the very first
step is to use, we've got some tuple paper here. So you put paper is
a plastic paper. It says synthetic paper, a non porous surface. And we're going to put
some alcohol inks on the background of it so
that we can lift them up. I've got four different colors. I'm using the same four
colors throughout the class. There's one part where we're
going to use some pearls, but they're all the
same color scheme. So I'm just gonna get
some isopropyl alcohol on the back of my UFO here. Now the one thing with tuple
is it does not like heat. So I've got, It's
actually a hair tool, but it's got to two
different speeds on it and it's low heat. You want to use something that
has a very low heat to it. Because otherwise, if
there's too much heat, it's going to start
melting the paper. So a heat gun would
not work for this at all because it would
just melt the paper. So isopropyl down put
some alcohol ink down, and now I'm just putting some
more isopropyl on top of it just to get a lot on
there to help it to flow. And then we're gonna
be using the tool to start flowing
that alcohol around. I just use it to direct
it a little bit. I'm trying to get a little bit of whitespace left in here. As I move this
around is going to start drying around the edges. But if there's an area
that's getting too dark that you want to say here, whatever you just use
your heat tool to move that anchor
around a little bit. Yes, if your tool catches
the edge of the paper, it will start moving like that. So you may want to use the
fingers are just hold it down. If some alcohol goes
behind the paper, that is totally
fine and that will actually help it Hold
it down a little bit. It's still wet. The inks aren't flowing quite as much, but it is still wet. So I'm going to put a
second layer on here. Now, you could, if
you liked the way the first layer ended up, you could absolutely leave
it with that and use that. I just want to make
sure that I have a really good amount of ink in order to lift
up for the next part. I also like the texture that you get when you add
different layers. So I just put the ink
down and now I'm putting some isopropyl on top of them to get them flowing
a little bit more. And you can see I put them in rainbow order on the page and that's mainly so
that I don't get modify put pink
next to the green. It's going to turn brown. Where those inks blend. I'm trying to avoid
getting that. It does take a bit if
you're new to Alcoholics, it does take a bit to learn how they move and how they flow, what you can do and
what you can't do. And then once you learn that, you kinda start trying
to break those rules, are trying to see what happens if you do different things, which is part of the fun of it. I didn't have quite
as much isopropyl with this layer as I
did with the first. It's not going all
the way to the edge. It's creating different edges. Which for me is on purpose because I liked
the look of that. If you wanted it to go
all the way to the edge, you're going to need
to use more isopropyl. Just because we're
doing layers doesn't mean that once it's
dry, it's permanent. As soon as you add
another layer, it does start to rehydrate
the layer underneath, but it just builds up the ink and the color intensity
a little bit. I don't necessarily want that there to be
just one big blob. So I'm putting some
isopropyl, moving it around. Then I'm gonna do one more layer and we're going
to leave it at that. You'll notice I'm not using
a ton of the pink and the pink is really quite strong. It has a really almost a neon
pink kind of vibe to it, which I like once it's
diluted a little bit. But I'm not trying to I'm
deliberately trying to not get a large portion of that. A little bit of green. I just put my isopropyl in these little medicine
dropper bottles will be linked on
the supply list. I liked them because then you can have a little
bit of control. If you have a big bottle, it's a little bit harder to
control when you pour it out. And even if you use a pipette, I just find this
as a much easier. You'll get to learn
how much you need to move the alcohol inks
around or whatever. I keep going up here
to kind of break up a big purple patch. But there will get to be a
point where the ink starts flowing and we just need
to let it completely dry. And that point is,
right now the inks, I'm just going to let
them completely dry. I'm happy with how
this has turned out. Now what I was going for
when I was doing it, because I know that I've
got the big butterfly at the top and I know that
I've got my sentiment here. And I want to make
sure that this is completely
covered with color. And I want to make sure I
have a decent amount of color here as well so that
I have that ink to pick up. If any of that is whitespace, there's no ink to pick up. So I'm going to let
this completely dry. I could use my heat tool to
speed it up a little bit, but I might as well
just let it dry on its own while I get ready for the next video and we'll show
you how to lift that ink.
4. Alcohol Lift Ink Technique: Card 1 Assembly: Alright, my ink is completely
dry and if you get a point where it looks like it's still wet but it's just not moving. You can take a paper towel, a clean paper towel, and tap it on your surface
to see if it's ink is dry. I had a pool here
so that I ended up I ended up just
lifting that up. So we're ready to move
on to the next step. So this here is some
glossy card stock. Glossy card stock is a porous
paper that's clay coded, so it's got a shiny look to it, but it's not non porous. So this background here, it has to be on a
non porous surface. So I'm did it on UCO. You could also do it on a plastic transparency
that would work as well. But the ink will not lift off if you use it on
a porous surface. So I've got an alcohol
lift ink pad here. And this is intended to lift up, to rehydrate that alcohol
ink and to lift it up, you do need to make sure that
all of this is completely dry before we move
to the next step. And then as you can see, I need to make sure
that your stamp is completely covered. The ink is glossy so you
can see exactly where it goes on your stamp.
Press it down. And I like to have one hand stationary while the
other one moves around, pressing and around,
making sure that I have good contact with
that alcohol ink. I'm going to lift that up and then press it onto my
glossy card stock here. And I'm going to do
the same thing here, hold it in one spot, press it around with the other, just to make sure my stamp
doesn't move. There we go. We have a beautiful
image now this here. We want to lift up that
ink before it dries. So we're taking some
clean paper towel. First thing I'm gonna do is just press the paper towel on there. We don't want to rub we're
trying to lift up some of that excess lift ink and
if we start rubbing, it was just going
to smear it around. So clean paper towel lifted up. Get a new point of your new part of your
clean paper towel. Lifted up again. We're gonna do that a couple
of times until we're not seeing ink come up
on our paper towel. So that's pretty good.
There's not much left. Once we get very little left, then we can start rubbing. And that's just going to remove any excess and it's just
going to clean up your image. Now this part here, that
ink was quite heavy there. That's about as clean
as I'm gonna get it. If I start rubbing too hard, I'm going to start getting smear like scratches from
my paper towel into it. So I'm going to leave
that like that. And we'll finish that
with the next card. But let's finish this here. I've got my card base all ready. I'm going to glue my blue
mat to the card front. And then I'm gonna glue my image piece on the
glossy card stock. So I've got some distress collage medium
that I'm going with. I like using this
because it dries completely clear and it also
dries completely matte. So if anything happens
to squeeze out of from underneath the layer,
you're not going to see it. So we could leave it like this, but why not add a
little bit of sparkle? So I'm going to
use some stickers. I'm just going to outline
the wing a little bit. I'm not being ultra precise, going around the edges. Just to add a little
bit of sparkle, which basically just
gives it a little bit of a different texture on the card. And in my opinion, enhances it. One thing to make
sure of though, when you're using sickles is don't put your hand
where you just put some stippled because
you will smear it. And then depending on how thick of a layer you
get or you put on there is going to make a difference in how long
it's going to take to dry. And then the last thing
I did for this one here was some Glossy Accents just on the butterfly's
body there. Once again, just giving it
another texture in the center. So I'm gonna leave that to dry without touching it. But
that's what it looks like. So you get some glossy
raised area where the body is and then just the sparkle
around the wings there. The alcohol ink on your butterfly stamp needs to be cleaned off with a
permanent ink cleaner. My favorite one is
ultra, ultra clean. But you want to make
sure to clean that off? If I were to take that
and not clean it off and then say put my
alcoholic lifting, I'm going to contaminate my pad, which is what has
already happened. So if you want to keep your
pad as clear as possible, make sure to clean
off your stamp. There's not really any way
as far as I'm aware of rehydrating that and getting
another stamping out of it. You could miss it with some
isopropyl and snap it. But it's going to not be as crisp of an image
as what we've got here. So you can do that, but it's not going to
clean it completely. And it's going to be
more of a watercolor. Look back for a moment. I figured, instead of
just talking about it, why not show you what
I'm talking about? So I've just got some
isopropyl alcohol here. And what I'm going to do is
this is the one that I want. I had 70 and I want 99%. I'm just going to miss
my stamp here lightly. Then I'm stamping it right
onto glossy card stock. Alcohol inks don't
really look very nice on regular card stock. They really come alive on non porous surfaces
and glossy card stocks. So that's what I meant. So
you could absolutely use that and create another
card with it and I will. But you do get some spots
that are a little bit, I'm not nearly as crisp
as our original image. But why not use that ink rather than
just cleaning it all up?
5. Alcohol Lift Ink Technique: Card 2 Assembly with Glitter Butterfly: Alright, now let's finish this piece here to
create this card. So the background
is already done. We did that with the first one. Let's move that to the side. What I'm gonna do now is
I've got some alcohol, ink, glitter, stock,
my package go here. So this is what it is here. It's meant for alcohol
ink and it's got like a glitter print, if you will. It's not textured at all. It's completely smooth. So we're going to, I think this background to create
our butterfly accent. You could create a card like this and just leave it as is. Maybe put some stickers and glossy accents like we
did with the last one. But I just thought this
was really pretty in the center and it
just added a bit of extra dimension to the card. So I'm only actually going
to use three colors. But I do want to make sure
that these are out of the way. Sometimes when I have
things sitting in the way, they get an accidental spray or block of alcohol and
can we do not want that. So once again, I'm gonna put some alcohol ink on
my background here. I said alcoholic, I
meant isopropyl alcohol. I'm just doing this over the entire surface of this glitter card stock
is going to be die cut. This isn't gonna be for
the front of a card, but we want to make sure that the whole
surface is covered. That way we can choose where we want to decode
or butterfly farm. There's a good chance most of the surface will be covered with just one layer
of alcohol ink. But I can always add a
second layer if I need it. I'm trying to push that
to the edges there. See how that pink really overpowers the blue
and the purple. Alright, right away,
this is already drawing and this is still wet. And I want to have a little
bit more of the blue and purple on here to choose
from with dye cutting. So I'm just going
to go ahead and add a little bit more of that. Now, for this, I, i, so far I've been
using the dropper. I also have some isopropyl
alcohol in a misting bottle. And this way I can just wet the entire surface down
really, really quickly. There we go. I just wondered that
blue in that purple area to be a little bit darker. If you don't like having
things like this with this this background just
because we're die cutting it, you could spray more alcohol, isopropyl alcohol on the
background in order to clear or in order to
completely wet the surface. But I like those areas. They just add some extra texture that I think as more
interests to the whole abuse. Now, you noticed when I was
using the alcohol inks on it, a lot of that glitter
texture totally disappeared. But see how things are
drying and it's coming back. Just so you know that when
you're working with it and all of a sudden you
don't see any of that. That glitter and you think
something's gone wrong. It's just it does that while
you're working on it and as soon as that alcohol dissipates,
it starts to come back. Now, before we go any further, I'm going to set
that aside to dry. I want to clear in
my surface off here, just do that with
some isopropyl. And then I just use the
paper towel that I used for mopping up the ink
for the lift technique. I'm using a dark
surface here so that my alcohol ink won't stain if you have a light background, unless it's glass or whatever, there's a good chance that the
alcohol ink will stain it. So just keep that in mind. You don't want to be
working with a light mat and ruin it by staining
it with alcohol ink. I'm going to let
that completely dry. I'll see you in a
moment and we will die cutter butterfly, right? So our glitter card stock is completely dry,
we're ready to die cut. This particular dye has
two different dyes that layer one has all the detail and one is just a silhouette. We're going to use the
silhouette for this card. I tried to cut the one
with the detailed, but this card stock has a
plastic coating on the back, which makes it really
hard to get all of those little bits out without
starting to rip things. And rather than have
that frustration, I decided to just go with
the solid I'm sorry, I've completely lost
my train of thought, decided to go with this all his silhouette
of the butterfly. So my butterfly is in this area. I'm trying to pick a color on here that's going to pop out. I don't necessarily want
it to completely blend in. So I'm going to pick
a little bit lower in the blue areas and maybe have a little bit of
purple at the top of the wings in my machine. So the silhouettes are a
lot easier to cut out with tricky papers like this that
have a plastic coating. But I do still run it through a few times like you just saw, so that it has a
better chance of completely cutting and
it works totally fine. So this, I keep this and I'll use this for other
projects as well. This piece here can just come
right out of the die cut. And I love how when
you put it through, you get pressed image of all
of those little bits there. So it's not just one solid, um, silhouette with
no detail in it. I think that just adds to
the look of the dye cuts. So I'm going to glue this
piece of the front of my card. It's already the right size. I'll put the measurements
that you need on your supply list for each of the cards so you'll know what each piece or
each card needs. And then for the butterfly, I'm only going to put some glue on the back of the
butterfly body. I want to have those
wings pop up a little bit and add a little
bit of dimension. Then I'm just going to align the body up with the body
from the stamped image. Obviously it's not
the exact same image and obviously it's not as big. But I like the silhouette of the stamped image
behind this one here. And then the other
thing I'm gonna do, just to touch it, the
glossy accents on the body. Just add a bit of a
different texture. There we go. And
then we're going to let that completely dry. But I love how the different
glitter card stock just plays with the
alcoholic background. And they just play
off each other.
6. Alcohol Lift Ink Technique: Card 3 Alcohol Ink "Watercolour": So since we just
did this piece here with the isopropyl
alcohol on this. Now, we might as well turn
that into occurred as well. So my front of my card is
four and a quarter by 5.5. So I am going to take off an eighth of an inch
from each of the sides. Because that image is pretty
much centered already. In the end. It's going to be four inches
by five and a quarter. Then I just chose a
blue card-based for it. To bring out the
papa blue in there. You could choose any
of the colors that are in that image. Any of those will work. Then let's glue that to
the base and I'm going to enhance the image the same
way I did the first card. I'm just going to add a
little bit of stickers on the outside of the wings. A little bit of Glossy
Accents in the center. You could do the same as the second card
and do a die cut, the glitter die cut in
the center as well. Just have fun with it. It's always nice getting
a bonus card when you didn't necessarily
expect it. So just a thin line of sickles. And if you don't have stickers, you don't necessarily
have to add them. I just like it just adds a different texture to
the front of the card. Little bit of sparkle. But I only do a tiny little bit. I'm of the belief
that less is more. I think a little heavy, being too heavy on the glitter
would take away from it. But just a little
tiny glitter line I think is really,
really pretty. Just adds a bit of
sparkle is put some on the word dream as well, because I like it on there. The font that they use for the
word dream has an opening. And it just seems to work well for adding the
********* in there. And then a little bit of
Glossy Accents in the center. If that body some dimension and make it pop
out a little bit. I'm not too concerned
about being exactly where the body is. Close enough is close enough. So I'm going to let
that sit aside to dry. But there you are
another card made with an extra of
stamping up the lifting.
7. Diecut Butterflies Card: Alcohol Ink Background for Creating Butterflies: So now we're going to create
an alcohol background, but we're going to stamp
and die cut the pieces. What we're going to add is this pin yada opal alcohol ink. Now, it's not a metallic, It's got like a glitter to it. That as is really, really pretty shimmer
to your backgrounds. So you wanna make sure to completely shake it
up before you use it. I've put it in a
smaller bottle so that it's easier to
use and to control. So we're actually gonna do this. I'm actually going
to do this twice and save the other one for extra embellishments for cards in the future or in the
other cards in his class. Sometimes English discard. Alright, so I should have taken the lids
off the bottles already, but I didn't. Alright, so our background
is basically the same as the first one. I put the isopropyl down, put some alcohol ink down. Now before I'm putting more
isopropyl on top of that, I'm just going to add
a little bit of this. Opal is already
settled a little bit, so you want to
make sure to shake it every time you lift it up. I'm not sure if you can
see on the camera that pretty shimmer that ads. And then Let's add some
more of the isopropyl. No, because we are
cutting these out. Really unjust trying
for an all over background to stamp
and cut butterflies. If you get an all
over background with the first try, then use that. If you need to add some more coverage than
you can absolutely add some more
alcohol to do that. I think this is still wet. I'm going to add a
little bit more. The blue, green and the
pink is really taking over. I'm just going to add, good turn that off
while I'm doing this. A little bit more of
the isopropyl just to blend that out a little bit. I want to make sure
that I can see my stamped image on top of it. So we don't necessarily
want a really dark surface, but I do want to have
sections that you can see, our pink sections that
you can see our purple. You may notice some
of my alcohol ink is going off the page. That's totally fine. Clean that up later. Like I said before, this
pink really takes over. So I don't mind if
some of it goes off of the page and makes
way for other colors. So it's still fairly wet, but I don't feel the need to be pushing the alcohol
ink around anymore. I'm just going to close
these up and let it dry a little bit on its own. And you'll definitely
want to have a little bottle to put this end because the bottle itself is like that and you'll have 0 control if you
use it like that, you could use a pipette and take the alcohol ink out of
it as you're working. But much easier to have it in a smaller container and
be able to control it. Alright, I'm gonna
wait a few minutes for this to completely
dry and I'll be back. Alright, so my inks are
completely dry and I'm going to stamp butterflies over them. So this happens to be
a stamp set that has a matching die set
to cut them out. You could use other butterflies and then just hand cut them. And I have already placed them
so I know they're going to fit within my piece of paper. I'm using stays on ink. You'll want to work
fairly quickly with this because it does
dry weight quickly. And once again, I
put it on my piece, hold it steady with one hand
and then press around with the others so that it
doesn't slip or move. There we go. Now I have the dyes
to go with this, but I can't die cut them all at the same time because
if any dies overlap, like for instance, say
that if any dies overlap, then I'm going to ruin my die. So they need to be
cut separately. So these inks are going to
dry while I'm doing this. I'm going to police two of the Di's where I want it to go and I'm going
to tape them in place. The one thing you
wanna do though, when you're taping
them in places, don't take them over
another stamped image because you will lift a little bit alcohol ink up and
hence some of the image. So tape them where there
is no stamped image. I just need to move
this over so I can see it a little bit better. There we go. Then these pieces of tape,
you can just reuse them. This one I'm gonna tape
on the bottom here. And that stays on, might
not be totally dry yet. So you may get a little
bit of transfer on your I'm cutting plates
on your machine. It'll just clean up with isopropyl alcohol or
permanent ink cleaner. Yeah, I got a little
bit on there. So better to wait until it's completely dry before
I die cutting it. I tend to get a
patient sometimes, which is not the best thing. Right now. This one I
believe goes on this one. This one on this one. Alright, I'm going to finish cutting these out and
then I'll be back. Now, if you happen to
have what I had before and didn't wait long enough in your ink was still a little
bit wet when you die cut. Here's the way to fix it. So these dicots, dicot rate around the edges of the stamp. So this one here is one that
lost some of the detail. So what I did was just
rethink that one stamp. And then I'm just gonna put
my die cut rate over there. Just a stamp that
detail back in place. There we go. Now it's a lot darker again and you've got
more detail to it. Do it for one more. In all honesty,
better to be patient and wait till the ink is
dry before die cutting. But we all have our moments where we're trying to get things
down and get impatient. There we go. I'm going to let
that dry completely. And then when I'm back, we
will put our cart together.
8. Diecut Butterflies Card: Assembly: Alright, so my income, my
butterflies, this is dry. We're ready to put
our card together. One thing I wanted to
mention first though, is you will probably get some alcohol ink on your
dies from cutting them. You can clean this off with
just some isopropyl alcohol or some permanent stamp cleaner, make sure that you
completely wipe them off before and dry them off or whatever before
using them again. So I've got my stamp positioned here where
I want it to go. I like to stamp my sentiment first before gluing on the card. So if something
happens to go wrong, I can just swap
out the card base. And I also like to use the
positioner for this so that if by chance it doesn't stamp perfectly the first
time in it it did. I can re stamp it. I could just repeat
that stamp and it'll be positioned in the
exact same spot. And I will know that I can position it in or I can stamp in
exactly the same spot. Let's move that out of the way. I'm just going to increase
this a little bit better. There we go. I want this big butterfly
here in the center. So before I glue them down, I'm just going to
position that one there. I want that one there. I'm going to take this guy here. I'm trying to go from green
to the purple or the pink. Alright, so I'm going to glue this one down and I'm
only gluing the body down. This will likely move
and shift a little bit as I am gluing
the rest of them down because I'm not waiting
for the glue to dry, but that's also okay
because I want to be able to move and adjust as
I'm working on them. If you wanted, you could
glue them down flat. But I liked the dimension. Having the wings
pop-up gives it. I am trying to stay within
the edges of the card though. And I'm also trying to make sure that they're not all
facing the exact same way. I'm using the distress
collage medium again. Once again, I like it because it is clear and if
anything seeps out or anything moves and my
glue isn't in the same spot. It is going to be
completely matte and you'll never know that there's glue there. There we go. So I'm going to let
that completely dry. But I love the movement of
the butterflies on the card. I've got my second
background here, just drying, waiting
for the next card. I'm just going to be using
it in the same way as this, but just creating embellishments for some of the other cards.
9. Alcohol Ink Lift Refill Technique: Background: Alright, so we've already used an alcohol lift pad
to create a card. Well, actually three.
But you can also get thinkers for that pad. And there's a fun
technique that you can use these reinforcers
for with stencils. So we're going to
create this one here. So the very first step is
to create the background. So I'm going to spray
isopropyl or my whole thing and start dripping
my alcohol inks. Now, one thing that I forgot
to mention in the first one with the lift pad is you'll notice I'm only using the
regular alcohol inks. I'm not using any metallics
or pearls for that. And the reason is the lift ink will only lift the
regular alcohol inks. It will not lift the pearls. You can use those pearls and metallics and
stuff like that in your alcohol ink prints and
lift from those prints. However, any place
where there's metallic, it will stay there.
It will not lift up. So just be prepared that if you do use a metallic
or a pearl or whatnot, that will not lift
from your prints. It does create a fun look to it. But if you're wanting, if you're thinking
it's going to lift up that it's not going to. Then you'll also
notice that in all of these alcohol ink basis or
whatever that we're creating, my paper keeps
catching on the dryer. I'm using the same color order, but not one of these backgrounds is the same as a different one. So that's part of the
beauty of alcohol inks, is you can use the
exact same colors and the exact same order. You're never gonna get the same. Since it always is going to
flow a little bit different. You're going to move the tool and a little bit of
a different way. So it's just a fun, fun to see how they flow, to learn how they flow and then create your prints
from what you've learned. I'm gonna do another layer here. I've got a good base layer. I'm trying to get the
entire background covered in which I do. But I also want to
build up the ink. There's a, a bigger wow factor when
you've got lots of ink and then you remove some, then if you have just a
thin layer and remove it, so I'm just going to
do another layer here. And below that around. I also like the texture
that you get from having multiple layers
of ink on here. A lot of that went super thick. Let's just do one more. Then that's probably
going to be good. Just want to break
up somebody who's really, really thick parts. And you can go and
lift from them. But it's going to take
a couple tries to get a good Lift
from those areas. So I'm just trying to
break it up a little bit. I'm not trying to completely
get rid of them just because I like seeing different darks and
lights or whatever the different textures
add to the effect. Alright, Those aren't
moving anymore, so I'm just going to
leave that to dry. So for this one, we used, we have a
coordinating sentiment. And the way to do that is stamping a boss with
white embossing powder. I'll show you in the next two
cards how to sampling bias. If you haven't done it, then all you're going to do it has to be on black card
stock because if the background of this
is a different color, you're going to see these
inks on the background. So it only works with
black card stock and white embossing powder, but you can customize your sentiment to
go with your card. So I am putting the alcohol ink on the whole thing
because if you only put alcoholic just over the
powder or the embossing, you kinda see a little
bit of an outline. So by putting the alcohol
ink on the whole thing, it'll just even itself out. This needs to be 100%
dry before you use it. If there's any slightly
moist alcohol in there, it is going to resist any adhesive that
you're going to be using to put it on your card. So I'm going to let both
of these completely dry, although I've already
got my sentiment for this card done, I'm going to let this
completely dry and then I'll see you start lifting.
10. Alcohol Ink Lift Refill Technique Card: Assembly: Alright, so some of
these thicker areas are taking a little bit
longer to completely dry. I've dabbed up
some with a bit of a paper towel just so you'll see a little bit
of a difference in them. I have another one that I had done earlier that I
have ready to go, so I'm going to use
that one for right now. So one thing I wanna
do for this technique, because I want to take
part of my piece down. I know this area here is where a central image will not be. Then I'm going to, I don't
really want this flower. I'm trying to use more. These flowers here. I want that up a little bit. Do you see my tape in
there inside the image? So I want to lift
that up a little bit so that I don't have that. Alright, so now what
we're gonna do is I have a distress tool with a foam debris and they're
usually used for spreading out distress ink
and inking images. But what I'm going
to use it for is my alcohol refill or
alcohol lift ink refill. Now, this I keep with
my alcohol inks, so it only gets used for this. I'm just going to
dab over my stencil. Now I'm not doing
a circular motion, It's just up and down dabbing. And keep in mind if you put too much of the lift
ink on your sponge, some of it will seep
underneath your stencil. You'll see the alcohol lifting and going onto my stencil
that can be cleaned up. So this is the reason why
we're taping it down. So I can lift this up and I can start lifting the alcohol ink. Now, in some of those
really dark areas, if it hasn't really lifted as
much as I would like it to. I can put my central rate back
down and do a second pass. And it will be positioned
exactly how I need it to be. And I can see that I'm
gonna wanna do that because it hasn't lifted
up as much as I want. So let's put a little bit more. Lift ink on my surface here. And you can rub it a little bit, but just with a
light hand and all that I'm doing by
doing that is I'm just trying to rub some of that alcohol ink to get
it to move a little bit. There's so many Jags and
jogs in this stencil that I don't want
to do too much. And I'm kind of going with the stencil so that I'm
not picking any of it up. So this one here, I
wouldn't want to go up here because I'd be picking up all those
little bits there. You just have to be careful
when you're doing this. And I'm also not
pressing because I'm trying as much as possible to not push any of that
ink below this tensile. Some of it might go below
the stencil anyways, but I'm trying to not do
that as much as possible. Alright, now let's lift this up and see that's much better
than the first time. I'm gonna get another
clean area of paper towel and dab that up. And you can see some of the ink where it went under the stencil. For this particular
image, it's totally fine. And I would choose an image
that if that happened, it would be It wouldn't
ruin anything. But you see how with
the dark background having a nice contrast, just really, it gives more of a wow factor then if the background
was really light, alright, so I've lifted
up as much as I can. So now I'm gonna go in with the clean area paper towel and just a light
circular motion. Just get any excess
ink off of there. So the stencil, I
would clean off with some permanent stamp cleaner, but I will do that in a moment. Stick into my finger. Alright, let's move this
piece of tape here. And then all of our
pieces are ready. We can just put our
occurred together. I'm going to glue my
blue match down first. And then my alcohol ink piece. Sometimes the backs look
really, really cool. How the ink kind of
pools underneath. You get some really
interesting looks. There we go. Now I've got my sentiment here. I've got my butterfly stamped, but I still have to die cut it. So let's just glue
on the sentiment while we have it here. Let's move this out of the way. I want to get this
off of the table before put something in it. I did put some foam pop dots on the back of the sentiment, so it pops up just a little bit. Just a simple way to
add some dimension. There we go. Alright,
I already have my stamps in my image. Are my butterfly stamped here? I just want to die cut it. I actually stamped a
few of them because I need another one for
one of the other cards. And I wanted to give it time to completely dry.
I don't want this one. I actually didn't
accidentally stamped that one a little
bit off of the page. So I'm just going to
put my tape on that. The tape, this one has the background that has
that opal alcoholic. The tape seems to lift that up, so I definitely don't want to be putting my tape over top of my image and accidentally
ruining that. Let's see how it lifted
in some areas there. So just be aware of that
where you put your tape, but don't put it over
top of your image. Just in case that
happens sometimes. Even though you think something's
going to or you know, something's going to
happen sometimes it just doesn't there's not enough
pressure in that area. But just be aware of that. I'm going to my glue doesn't want to stick around because it
wants to flow now, rather than actually
I'll fight with it. If you ever have
glue that doesn't want to come out of the nozzle, just take a thumbtack and push it in and it
should start flowing again. I always have a
thumbtack just sitting nearby for that
particular reason. Here we go. Now, last step, even though that butterfly has got
some sparkle to it, I'm just going to
add a little bit of stick close to the
side of the wings. No, I'm not going to
put that in there. There we go. Another cute background
done with lifting, but this time they re
anchor and stencil. Another great way to
use your stencils in a different way.
11. Alcohol Ink Pearls on Black: Background: So now we're going to
have some fun with some alcohol pearls
on dark card stock. Now, if I were to use just
the regular alcohol inks on dark card stock,
they're transparent. You're not going
to see the color. So you need to use
something that has some micas are
some pigments with it in order for them
to work properly. So these have a little
metal ball in them. You need to state them
up really, really well. Make sure that
everything is properly. Now. You also need to use some alcohol blending
solution because of the resins, the
micas, whatever. You can't use isopropyl, it reacts funny with
the alcohol pearls. So you have to use some
blending solution. Now, one way to get
these to show up on dirt card stock is to say
use the snow white mix it IV or using a metallic
with it so that the color will show
up on top of those. But by themselves, you can see
that there's a spot there, but unless you knew
that was pink, you would have no idea. So let's put some
lender solution here. Then the pearls. I chose pearls that were
very similar in color to the rest of the colors
we're using in this class. So make them look similar
to the other cards. And we blow them around in a fairly similar
fashion because of the micas and then they
don't move quite the same. You can use these pearls on just the regular glossy
card stock or the Yuko. They will work absolutely
perfect on that. Well, so you don't need to
just use dark card stock. Let's put a few more. You build up the
colors a little bit. You could turn that off
while I'm doing this. Even like these, I even
like them just like that. I think it looks
really, really cool. So I'm not adding more of the blending solution
just because I liked the way that it looks. But if you wanted it to
flow a little bit more, you could add some more. Put a few drops of the pink
up at the top just to get a little bit more
continuity with rest of it. I'm just going to let that dry. Like that. I'm going to leave some of
the block on the sides here. Actually, I think I'm going
to blend a little bit more out just down here. So it's not just a big line
of block on the side there. I like having some of
the background showing. But I don't want to have
a whole bunch of it. Alright, So that I like that, I'm going to let that dry
and then I'll see you in a moment and we will do some
stamping in a bar, right? Or alcohol ink is dry and we're
ready to stamp in a boss. So we're not going to use the same tool that we've
been blowing around. Embossing powder to emboss. And I use a heat
gun, a heat gun, it is going to emit heat
to melt that powder. Very first thing we
need to do is we're going to stamp or image. I am stamping with, or I'm using versa mark ink. Just stamp. That is a sticky, clear ink that is going to let the embossing
powder stick to it. So same as stamping before
I hold in one spot and I press around to make sure I got good contact with the paper. Then I'm going to pour
the powder over top. There's any parts of that
alcohol link that wasn't dry. This powder will stick to it, which is why you
need to make sure that it's absolutely dry
before you continue. Then we're going to heat
it with a heat gun. So I'm going to move it slowly
around with the heat gun. This is completely cool. I haven't used it
yet today, so it's going to take a bit
for it to warm up, but you'll see it go
from granular Matt, too shiny and smooth. There you go. And always pointing us
away from your hands. It does get quite hot, so we don't want
to burn herself. So I'm just going to
let that cool and I will see you in a moment and
we'll put her car together.
12. Alcohol Ink Pearls on Black: Card Assembly: Alright, or alcohol ink is dry and we're ready
to stamp and a boss. So we're not going to use the same tool that we've
been blowing around, embossing powder to emboss. And I use a heat
gun, a heat gun, it is going to emit heat
to melt that powder. Very first thing we need
to do is we're going to stamp or image. I am stamping with, or I'm using versa
mark ink stamp. So that is a sticky, clear ink that is going to let the embossing
powder stick to it. So same as stamping before
I hold in one spot and I press around to make sure I got good contact with the paper. Then I'm going to pour
the powder over top. There's any parts of that
alcohol link that wasn't dry. This powder will stick to it, which is why you
need to make sure that it's absolutely dry
before you continue. And then we're going to
heat it with a heat gun. So I'm going to move it slowly
around with the heat gun. This is completely cool. I haven't used it
yet today, so it's going to take a bit
for it to warm up, but you'll see it go
from granular Matt, too shiny and smooth. There you go. And always pointless
away from your hands. It does get quite hot, so we don't want
to burn ourselves. So I'm just going to
let that cool and I will see you in a moment and
we'll put her car together. Alright, I have all my
pieces here ready to go. So let's just grab the glue. Remember all of these
measurements will be on the supply list. This one I did a double mat to bring out the colors
in the car stock. The other reason I
did that is because the black alcohol ink cards.com is in pieces
that are five by seven. Cards that I'm making are
four and a quarter by 5.5. To cut a five by seven down. I'd cut one in half. So then it's 3.5 by five. It just makes it so
I can get two cards. I would have one piece of
alcohol ink card stock rather than having a
bunch of black waste. Alright. Just have to hold this
down for a moment until let it stick. Probably actually
more than a moment, but I'm just gonna
do a moment here. So when you heat
with a heat gun, you will find that
your card stock does tend to work a little bit. I'm going to get an acrylic
block and I'm going to let it sit with that
on it to hold it down. And then we'll put the
rest of the car together. Alright, so I glue
has dried and you can see that weighing it down. Well, it dried, made
it go completely flat, which is exactly what
we were wanting. I already have my adhesive
on my sentiment here, so let's just take
the backing off. All right, go. The last step. We're going to put a
butterfly on there. So this is die cut from the glitter card stock that we colored for the second card. You could leave it like
that if you wanted to. It's just a lot of whitespace, so I just thought this
would help break it up. It would also give the card a little bit of extra dimension. No extra sparkle. It plays
off nicely with the pearls. And then last step,
I'm just going to put some glossy accents on the body. Again, just just add another different texture
to the cart so that one is white or white wet. Once it dries, it'll
be more like that. So it'll go it goes down
a little bit as it dries. But again, it just adds
another little texture there. So I'll see you
in the next video and we'll do our last card, which is alcohol
inks on acetate.
13. Alcohol Ink on Acetate: Image Piece: Our last card here is
alcohol inks on acetate. And in order to be able
to see the beauty of the acetate and be able to
see how it's transparent. We're going to, when we do
our assembly for our card, we're going to create a
window in our cards so that you can see both the
front and the back. Now this is heat
resistant acetate because I am going to do
some stamping and embossing. And you do need specific
acetate if you want to do that. If you didn't want to emboss, if say you wanted
to say stamp with some black permanent ink or
whatever and just let it dry, then any acetate will, will do. You don't need the heat
resistant for the alcohol inks, It's just for the embossing. I'm also going to use the opal Kenyatta alcohol
ink as well with it, just to give it a
little bit of sparkle, Let's put on some isopropyl. So I've got it on top of a piece of white
paper just so that you can see in those blue marks
are sitting on the paper, but it's not going to
affect the alcohol exit. All this piece is bigger than I actually
need is a quarter sheet. But this way, once it's done, I can pick which
part of it I want to use and then cut it down. So the process of working on the alcohol inks exactly
the same or three, acetate is exactly the same way as any of the other
non porous surfaces. I put on some of the isopropyl, drop the colors and
then a little bit of the opal, then more isopropyl. And let's spread that around. I don't need this
to be super dark, so I'm just gonna do one layer. If by chance there's an
area that gets missed, I could add a second layer. But really this is more
just to get the color behind the part that
I'm going to emboss. If any of that alcohol and goes on the paper, that's
totally fine. It's not going to do anything, it's just going to absorb. Alright, that's stopped moving. So I'm just going to let
that dry on its own for a few minutes to clean up
or move my alcohol eggs out of the way so they're not gonna be in my way for when I do the
stamping and embossing. So this is heat resistant. Acetate is not heat proof. So when I'm doing my
embossing, once again, I'm going to use my heat gun that emits heat, not just error. And I'm going to move it
around quite a bit because I don't want to concentrate
the heat in one area. I'm just going to get
ready for that while this is completely
drying and I'll see you. Alright, so the alcohol
ink is totally dry. I ended up having a little
bit of a pool there that I mopped up in one there. But I'm just going to be
doing my concentrating, my stamping and embossing
in this area here. I'm going to use the same
embossing ink that I used for the previous card. It's just a watermark
sticky ink. Hold it in one spot, press around to get a nice, good clear stamped image. And I am doing the
stamping and embossing the opposite side
of the alcohol ink. That way I don't have
to worry about any of that ink still
being a little bit tacky and sticking
to the powder. Alright, so like I said,
when I do the embossing, I'm going to be moving
my heat gun around. If I concentrate it too much, even though this
is heat resistant, it will start to work. So I'm trying to
move it around to disperse the heat evenly. There we go. So you
can see it did warp, It's slight little bit, but that's nothing compared
to how other types of acetate would react with the heat gun, with
the embossing. I'll see you in the next
class or next video, and we will put
our car together.
14. Alcohol Ink on Acetate: Card Assembly: The first step when we're
going to be putting our car together is to cut
out that window. And the easiest way
to make sure that that window is in the same
spot for both layers. Plus we get an even matt around our window
is to just tape it down temporarily
in the center. Now if you're wanting to use
these pieces that you cut out for other projects, make sure it's
temporary adhesive. If you don't care about it, then you can use
permanent adhesive. And now we're going to put our
dy where we want it to go. I'm leaving a wider
edge at the bottom here so that I can put
my sentiment down there. I'm just going to
get a little bit of dye tape and hold it in place. And that way I can make sure that it's not going
to move around. When I'm putting it through
my die cutting machine. I'm going to flip that up. I always die cut with
the blade site up. And the reason is when
I first got my machine, that's how the instructions
said to do it. One time I was
teaching a class and it was my dye was used
the opposite way. And I figured I just let it go. And by the end of
the class might die. It was curved because all the pressure
comes from the top. And by having this
part of the die down, I never have a curve in my dice. So if you ever having an issue with curved dies
after you're using them, try flipping them the other way. And in order to do
that, often you do have to tape them in place. But I'd rather get more
use out of my dice, then have them start to curve those pieces of tape I will
reuse over and over again. My diet can come out of there. This shape, this rectangle shape is quite simple so you can probably cut both the mat and your card
piece at the same time. This can be taught
to the site to be used for a future project. Now before we put
anything together, I'm going to stamp it and
boss at my sentiment. That way it ties into the
image piece on the card. I'm just going to use my
magnets to hold that in place. Place my sentiment
exactly where you want. Make sure your stamps are
clean when you're doing this. So you're not accidentally putting down ink on there while you're trying to place
it in your stamp. This embossing ink tends
to be shiny on card stock, so you can see exactly
where it has gone. To see if you've gotten
a clear impression. Grab a piece of paper. If you get something like that, you can use a brush
to brush it off or if it's far enough
away from your sentiment, you can use your fingers
like I just did. But you do want to take it
off before you melt it. If you melt it first, that part is going to melt to your paper and you
never got to get it off. There we go. Now what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna put tape on the
inside of my frame here. I'm just using a nice
double-sided tape and I am going to go around all four edges to make
sure it has a good seal. Take the backing
off of that tape, and then center our frame
with her stamped image. There we go, press it down. Now we can cut the excess off. And it doesn't need to be cut pretty all of this
is going to be behind the blue mat and, or between the blue
mat and the card. So you just want to make
sure that it's not going past the edge of your blue. Alright, now let's
put some adhesives. Are blue piece here to get this onto the
front of the card. Now, this double-sided tape
sticks super, super weld. If it's his stuck
to your surface, the only way to get
it off is using undo or basically
ripping things off. So in order to get
it on a little bit easier and not have to worry about trying to get it
off of the whole thing. I'm just taking the
ends of my tape, folding them over
so they're passed the blue part. One back. Now I'm going to match my window with my
window on my card base. Once it's all mashed,
I can put it down and now I can take
that adhesive off. Just by pulling the tail. There we go. Now it's perfect if
you were to take that adhesive backing off
and try to get it all down, chances or something would stick that you didn't
want it wants to stick and you wouldn't
be able to get it up. So I've already got my
butterfly stamped and cut out. This is the one from the piece, the extra piece that we did
with the opal alcohol ink. So it's got a little
bit of shimmer to it. My sample card, I did one
that was pinky purple, this one I did that one that was got the greens to it just
so you see the difference. Neither one is right or wrong. It's all personal preference. And the last step, I'm just going to put a little
bit of sticky notes around the edges again just to add a little
bit of shimmer. That butterfly is
still moving because that adhesive on my
card is not dry yet, but once it's dry,
it won't move. There we go and we'll
let that dry completely. But there you go.
That's how you do alcohol inks on acetate.
15. Alcohol Ink Techniques for Cardmaking Class Thank You: Thank you so much
for joining me for alcohol ink techniques
for card making. I hope you enjoyed learning the different techniques
that were taught in this class and that's inspired you for your
future projects. Just remember, any
of those colors can be changed to whatever
colors suit your taste, as well as any of the
stamps are dicots. Again. Change them up. Have fun, get creative. We'll see you in the classroom.