Transcripts
1. Alcohol Ink Techniques for Christmas Card Making Class: Hello and welcome to alcohol ink techniques for
Christmas cards. Now, in this class
we're going to go over several different ways to use alcohol inks and
your card making. And in the process, we're going to make
some Christmas cards. Let's go take a look at
what we're covering. These are the five cards that
we're going to be creating, creating in this class, we're going to use a variety of different stamps and dies. All holiday, Christmas themed. The techniques though will
work for any stamp or die. We're using some line stamps as well as some
solid image stamps. Then different dyes that
will coordinate with the cards use different
alcohol ink techniques. But these three cards will be created all at
once because we're removing ink from one and then adding it to the other
and then decorating it. This class also comes with a downloadable civil
ILS PDF that will have pictures of each
of the sample cards as well as the supplies
used to make each one. And then each of those
supplies will be linked to where you can purchase
them if you choose. But it's great to have a sample pictures with the
supplies that are listed for each one of them so
that you don't have to make notes or remember while
you're taking the client, let's go create some
Christmas cards.
2. Pinecone Card: Faux Watercolour Technique: So our first alcohol ink card we're gonna do is
this acorn one. And really any silhouette
stamp will work for this. For alcohol inks, we're
actually going to use alcohol ink markers because we have a little bit
more control over this. So what we're gonna do,
and I've got a piece of glossy card stock here
for my first stamping, I've got a piece of
playing card stock here. We'll do a second stamping
just to see what we get. And that way if the ink
isn't going to be wasted. So what I'm going to do is I'm starting with
my lightest color. These are Copic markers
that I'm using. You could use any
alcohol-based marker. It will work just fine. So I start with my
lightest color and color, the whole section that I want, the color that I am using
it in this case of Brown, you wouldn't be able to use alcohol inks and a jar with this because
you wouldn't have the control and you'd end up getting a lot of it
running in between the stamp punish just going to
end up making it a pain in the butt to clean up constantly or to clean
up the whole thing. So for the next color, the medium color, I'm just
tapping the color on. I want to get a little bit
of the acorn texture to it. I'm not covering
the whole thing. We're not going to, some of
this texture is going to be lost because when
we go to stamp. So this is the third
color, that dark color. You could just do
this with two colors. I happen to like doing a
little bit more than that. I happen to like doing
the three colors, but if you only had two, it
would work totally fine. So now I'm going
to do the greens. I'm going in with the
lightest color first. I'm coloring all
of that greenery, although the middle part here, right above the acorns or the pine cone story is really going to be covered
over by darker color. Not going to see it. I just like to have one
layer of color down so that if by chance when
I'm doing a next color, I happen to miss it. I still have color there. So now I'm starting in the
center with the medium color. I'm just flicking my pen out. I want a nice gradual change from the medium
color to the dark. When we go to stamp it, we're going to spray it with some isopropyl alcohol that's going to rehydrate
all of the ink. This ink is drying
while you're using it. There's no way to color
fast enough for it to still be wet. So we need to use the
isopropyl to re-wet the ink. And when we do that, some of those colors
are going to run together anyways,
which is totally fine. This is how you get a full
watercolor with alcoholics. So I'm using my
darkest color here on the sentiment
because I want to make sure that that shows
up really, really well. My paper here, I'm going to move that over because I
don't want to get some over spray
from the isopropyl. So I have a spray bottle
here with isopropyl is 99%. I'm going to spray it
probably about four times. I'm going to do it two
times from this side and then I'm gonna
flip around and do it two times from
the other side. And you want a nice even missed. You don't want to use a sprayer and you're going to
stamp it right away. You don't want to use a sprayer, that big blobs of spray. You want it as even as possible. My piece of card stock here
is four and a quarter by 5.5. It's going to be cut
down for the card. But I always like to have a
bigger piece of card stock. So then if I happen to stamp
it a little bit crooked, I have a little bit
of leeway there. So beautiful. There's my first stamping. Now let's, I'm gonna
move this over here. Let's get a second stamping. Most of that ink is gone. But let's just see
what we have here. I use cheap or inexpensive, just playing card
stock for this. I don't use my glossy
card stock for this. Just because chances
are I'm not going to get a really good
stamping with this. But I've been surprised before. Hold it firmly in one area and
press down with the other, making sure that the stamp has good contact with your paper. Not bad, it's not the best, but it's not bad. I'm not sure. I'm
going to put it aside. I don't know whether I'm
going to use it or not. But it's always interesting
to see some of the time, sometimes what you get,
I've done it before. We've actually gotten
three stamping out of it. So sometimes you'd be surprised. So it's worth it if it ended
up being, So this is my, when I was doing the sample, I ended up getting a few there. But it's worth it
just to see if by chance there's
enough ink on there. So this is alcohol inks or
you're going to need to clean it with a permanent ink. Cleaner, saves on
cleaner rule work. I like to use the ultra clean. I might not great
for permanent inks. So it makes sure
that that is clean. Before you put it away. I am going to cut this down to five inches
by 33 quarters. And I'll see you
in the next video and we'll assemble our card.
3. Pinecone Card: Assembly: Okay, I've cut my
piece down here. Let's assembler card together
and chose a nice hunter green card base for it because it brings out some
of the greens in the image. And like I said, any solid
image will work for this. And it's fun to just have fun and play around with
them and see what you get. Because really it's
quite a quick card. It's a super simple
technique and I love how alcohol inks they
drive very, very quick. So I'm not waiting a long
time for my inks to dry. You can get a lot of cards done in a short amount of time. With this technique. The
last step that I did, I kinda thought it
looked slightly playing. So just to add a little
bit of dimension, I just added a little gold bow. It could be whatever
color you want. I didn't want to add too much the card and take away
from the stamped image. I thought just a little bow. Added enough. Oops. That
and a little bit too much. When I do Bose, I like to make a big one and then I pull
my tails a little bit smaller just to make it the size that I want
towards my scissors. Cut the tails off. I'm going to use the same
distress collage medium that I just believed
my car together with. And I'm going to put a bit on the back and sit down and
just let it sit there to dry. It does take a little bit
for it to dry because it's a liquid glue for this
particular application anyways, gluing two pieces of paper
together as a lot quicker. But there we go. Very
quick, very simple. I love this technique, will see you in the next video.
4. Santa & Sleigh Card: Alcohol Ink Watercolour Part 1: So the second card
that we are going to create is this Santa
and slay card. And we're gonna do a
bit of watercolor ish in with some alcohol inks. So I have bottles that
have alcohol ink in them. There are about a quarter
of the alcohol ink from the bottle and the
rest is isopropyl, so it's a diluted solution. It's going to lighten
the color a little bit and it's just going to help
it flow around the card. So the first step
is we're going to stamp and emboss the image. This gives us a little tiny bit of a raised area
where the image is. It's not enough that if you put a ton of alcohol ink on it, it's going to hold it in. It is only going to help slightly with kinda
keeping it all in place. So I'm using some
brilliance ink here. It's a really nice black ink. And I'm going to use
clear embossing powder. You want to use clear
embossing powder with alcohol inks because the alcohol ink does start
to break down the embossing. And with clear powder, you don't really notice
that if you use to color, you would start to notice
that it is breaking down. So once again, my piece of paper is bigger than
I need it to be. It's foreigner quarter by 5.5. Once I'm done, I'm
going to cut it down to 33 quarters
by five inches. These measurements would be
on your supply list so you don't need to remember them. Alright. Clear powder on. You don't want to
make sure that it's on all of the different parts of ink before we met it or
melted with the heat gun. Here we go. Some of the ink dried
super, super quick. Okay. I'm going to use an
embossing gun to melt it. So this blows heat or emits
heat to melt the powder. It doesn't blow air. I realized after I
turned that he's got on there that I had
half a sentence there. So you don't want
to use a blow dryer which will dry out the ink and just blow air and ended up
blowing your powder off. You want to use
an embossing tool that emits heat and just
melts the powder where it is. So the first thing I'm
going to do is do the sky. And the reason I'm doing
this guy is if I've had a chance I go
over any areas, I can color over top of them with the next colors and it's a little
bit more forgiving. So these bottles
that I'm using has a really fine tip to them and
I'm pressing pretty gently. I don't want to press out
a whole bunch of ink. I'm just trying to
color in those areas. I'm trying to get the bottom
part a little bit lighter. And then we'll do the
darker part on the top. I can do that a little bit quicker because I'll have
the bottom part done. So you see some of these
colors are kind of going over the lines
and that's because that embossing makes a
slight ridge is really not a huge bump. So it's not going to
really hold anything in, it's just going to help it. And this is especially
going to be noticeable when we go to paint the trees and the
buildings and stuff like that. When we go to do those ones, I'm going to be
using these here. They're actually disposable like eyeliner applicators that I found online that work
perfect for this. I'm going to put some clear
isopropyl alcohol down. And then some of the
blue I want that clear to help this move
around a little bit. Then I'm going to use my brush to try to help move
it around a little bit more. I want to get that sky covered before that
alcohol ink dries. Alcohol ink dry,
super super quick. But there's not a whole
lot of work time with it. I'm not really careful. I'm not sorry. I'm not concerned with
getting it completely even. I like having some
lighter areas and some darker areas that makes
it a more natural SKY to me. But I am wanting some of that blue to cover
the whole sky. A little bit more
on if you want. Just keep in mind if the
ink has dried around it, you are going to get some lines
alcoholic just does that. But by adding the
isopropyl ahead of time, there shouldn't be it
should be to dry quite yet. All right. I think
that's good for my sky. But you'll see I've got lots
of blue in the trees here. And that is totally fine. So I'm going to move that up
way so that I don't grab it. I am done with the aqua
color and the denim color. Alright, the colors
that I'm using on the supply list so that
you know that as well. I don't think I'll need
the clear isopropyl and know that I said I'm
done with the aqua color. I just realized that
I'm actually not. So I'm gonna put a little bit in here and lift it
up with my brush. I want a little bit of that
aqua color on the snow. A, it's going to
hide these bits that go down below the line. It's also just going
to give a little bit of shadow to that snow. There we go. You can go down as
much as you want or leave it fairly high. Up. There we go. Now I'm going to do some
green for the trees. And I just put a few drops.
This is a little dish, has got a little well in it. You don't want to
put too much of too much alcohol ink in there
because like I said before, alcoholic evaporates and
dries fairly quickly. So if you put too
much in your bowl, it's just going to evaporate
on you while you're working. Myself, put just a little bit in and add more
when you need it. That way it doesn't go to waste. Now, any of these wells from previous projects
or from before, I typically would
reuse them again and just put a similar
color ink in there. And you can see with
doing these trees, I worked from the top
down to the bottom. And I tried to work
fairly quickly so that my ink hasn't totally dried so that I'm not getting lines between the
light and the dark. The beauty part about this
image is if the ink happens to go slightly out of the
lines, I still looks good. The aqua and the Navy
that are on some of these trees that have gone over the lines from when
I was doing the sky. It will blend with the
green for the trees. And just give it a little
bit of a different shade. I need a little bit more green. This big tree is the one that your chances aren't
going to have a harder time keeping the ink
wet while you're coloring. But I tend to use
emotion kind of like the branches would be
there if I do get lines, it just looks like texture,
oops, wrong color. You can see that I'm
doing my trunks. The green, the color that I have for my
buildings is terracotta. And I'm gonna go back once I'm done my buildings
and I'm gonna put terracotta over
top of that green. And it's just going to
make it more brown color. All right, done
with those trees. If you want, you can go over 1 second or a couple
of second time, just make them a
little bit darker, just so that your trees aren't all exactly the same shade of green that there's some
lights and darks to it. There we go.
5. Santa & Sleigh Card: Alcohol Ink Watercolour Part 2: Now, let's do the
terracotta color. And obviously you can choose whatever colors
you want for this. I happened to have these colors already diluted from
other projects. But these bottles are great. They feel really, really nicely. And I just write the
name on the side of the bottle so I know
exactly what the color is. I especially like using
these bottles when I'm doing some alcoholic jelly printing because it just
dilutes the color a little bit, makes it flow. Eliminates the step
of having to add too much isopropyl because
it's already mixed in there. You can see this image color
is super, super quickly. We've got our buildings done. So last step, I'm just going
to take this terracotta, go over top of that green. They're going to mix together and make a bit of
a different shade. You can see my green went
under the lines there. I just leave it in to me. Part of those imperfections
make things what they are. I think it makes it
more interesting. Alright, I'm gonna wait a few seconds for
those inks to dry. I will see you in
the next video. I'll cut this down so that
it's ready to assemble. And then we'll
assemble our card.
6. Santa & Sleigh Card: Assembly: Alright, our ink is
dry. We're ready to assemble our card. I'm going to put
the mat down first. I use the same
hunter green that I used for the card
base of the last one. I didn't want to use it for
the card base of this one. I thought it would be great to just kinda bring out
those trees a little bit, tie in that color. I'm using distress collage
medium to glue my layers down. I liked the distress
collage medium because it is clear
and it is Matt. So if anything
happens to seep out, you're not even going to know
it was there. There we go. Now you definitely want to make sure that your alcohol inks are completely dry when you
glue your car together. Otherwise, the alcohol ink, even if it is mostly dry but
just a little bit there, can sometimes react
with the glue and interfere with it so you want to make sure
that it is completely dry. So now I'm going to use a
little bit of stick goals. We could leave the card
like this if you want. But the stickers just add
a little bit of sparkle to it and I think take
it to the next level. I'm just going to put just
a tiny little bit under the reindeer and slay. A little bit of sparkle there. Then a little bit on the trees. I didn't do it on the sample, but I could do sum on the
top of the hills as well, just the top of the snow. Because in my mind, the stick walls is the
sparkle from the snow, the frost, that sort of thing. I'm actually going to
do it on this one. Once you have your stickers on, you want to leave it for a
little while for it to dry. And it really depends on how thick of a layer you've
put on as to how long, typically half an hour
to an hour is good, but if you do a really,
really thick layer, it's going to take just
a little bit longer. So when it's wet,
It's like that. When it's dry they
stick was just reduced in size and you get
more of a sparkle from it.
7. Creating Alcohol Ink Backgrounds: So if in the next section
we're going to create three cards at once, we're going to
create a background. And then we're gonna do
some lifting to stamp on the other two to
create those cards. We're also going to create
two other backgrounds, one for this flower
and one for the slow though those ones
were going to die cut. So they don't need to
be perfect backgrounds. But let's create those. So in this video we are going to do those three backgrounds. I have a, it's actually
a hair tool that is low voltage and it's got two speeds and it's also
got a cool setting to it. Then I'm going to use to
blow the inks around. You could also use an
alcohol ink blower. This just works a
little bit quicker. So for the first background, I'm going to miss my paper. This model just has 99%
isopropyl alcohol in it. I've also got a dropper
bottle with that. I'm just going to use one
color, it's the crimson. We're going to create a
background just with the crimson. I love this color because
it's just a nice, beautiful, rich red. And then start moving it around. But this one, I want the
whole back ground covered. It doesn't need to be
all evenly one color and it always works
best when it's got more than one shade
of the same color to it. If you haven't worked
with alcoholics before, they do try dry fairly quickly? I've got some ridges here
where the alcoholic won't go. So what I'm going to do is put some isopropyl in those
open spots, add some ink. I do the isopropyl first, add some of the ink color and then more isopropyl and
that helps it move around. And then we'll fill
in those areas. And if by chance you want to rehydrate the whole
piece with ink. That's what this
spray bottles for. It's good for getting across the whole oral over
the whole surface, but it's also good for rehydrating
your whole background. If by chance you don't love it. It also adds some
textures to some of those areas that just get
a little bit of mist. Which in turn makes it look a little bit more interesting. Oh, I must have sucked
up some of the crimson with the bottle dropper because I got a
little bit in there. Alright, I just don't want
these big white patches here. I'm trying to eliminate those. I don't normally put it
on the highest setting, but I just wanted to
make sure they get that ink and some of those
things as before it dries. You want to make sure you're
using a surface that you don't mind getting
stained with alcohol ink. If you use a lighter Matt, chances are the alcohol ink
is going to stay in it. Alright. So I'm going to set
this aside to dry. I'm going to create
another one and I'm going to leave that stuff
at the bottom there. I will clean it up once
I'm done my backgrounds. But that liquid underneath
there is going to help hold this piece of paper or a piece of view but one place. And I'm using a tuple paper, which is not a paper
as a synthetic, it's a plastic paper, but
as a perfect surface. We're using for alcohol inks because they stay
on the surface. This is one of the ones
I'm going to die cut. The first one is the one
that we are going to use the lift ink
and stamp off of. So I've got the same
crimson and I'm also using Kenyatta brass. I'm not a huge gold person, but I love this one
because it's got, it's not too yellow. And it flows really nicely. So I put some of that
Kenyatta in each of those spots and then I'm adding some isopropyl
to spread it around. Since this is one of the
ones that we're die cutting, is just to get the color over
the whole surface that I want areas big
enough to die pet. My point set is, I'm
just gonna do it once. Now the reason I didn't
use Kenyatta brass for the first one because we're using alcohol lifting and the lift it doesn't
lift metallic. So you would still
have metallic in some areas that you are
lifting your image from? Sometimes that's
okay for this one. I just didn't want to
have that in there. Then once you've got your ink
that's not blowing anymore, once it's pretty much
set in a certain area. And you can set it aside
to completely dry. And you want to make sure
it is completely dry. Before you die cut. You will get some alcoholic that transfers to your die anyways, but you can just
clean it off with isopropyl alcohol that
will get set to the side. And then this one,
this one here, I want it lighter colors
because I want to have some lighter areas because it's going to be a dicot there. We're going to put on the red and I don't want red on red. These aren't perfect colors, but they will work
for what we're doing. I just want to lighten
it up a little bit. Good amount of that isopropyl. This one is salmon and it is really diluted
with isopropyl. And this one is a pink Schubert. And it is also really diluted. But you can see once we add
a little bit of the crimson, it'll just lighten
the whole thing up. And that way when we have
our dicot flower on there, it's not going to
get completely lost. I just want to make sure that the part that we're going to die cut is able to be seen
from the background. A little bit different.
One thing I forgot to add, I've got some rainbow
sparkles is from mirror boo, just to add a bit of
glitter to it. There we go. Just to get a bit of
a different texture. This is another one of the ones that we are going to die cut. You can see how that is
much lighter than this. Sorry, my hands are
in front of it. Then. So when we have
the dicot flowers, they're going to show up
beautifully on that surface. Alright, those
backgrounds are done. I am going to set them aside to completely dry
before we move on. And I'm also going
to completely clean my surface area before
moving on as well. I just realized I forgot to say how to clean up
your surface area. I just take that same isopropyl
and the spray bottle. And I spray where
the alcohol ink is, makes sure that your pieces
are far away from it. Otherwise, you're gonna
get over spray on them, then just a paper
towel to wipe it up.
8. Creating Dimensional Flowers: Alright, so now we're going
to create the flowers, the dimensional flowers that we're going to put on the front of our cards just so that
they're ready for us, for when we are ready to
put them on our cards. Now before we do that, some of these areas that are quite dark, maybe alcohol ink that's really just not going to dry just because it's really
concentrated. So what I do is I take
a paper towel and I just put it on there and it just kinda takes
up some of that excess. We're going to create
flowers out of these two. This one here is set aside for one of the card backgrounds. So like I said, when we were doing these
backgrounds, this is, you put paper, It's
a plastic paper, but it die cuts beautifully. Sometimes. Sometimes if you've
ever tried dye cutting, acetate or whatnot, it's hard to die cut and just kinda
fights with the plastic. But this here
dicots beautifully. So I have a thin die here. You want to put the blade
side towards the paper. And the nice thing about
having a large area, we only need two of
these flowers is you can pick and choose
exactly which parts of the paper you are going to die cut even the back
is really kinda cool. I'm gonna put it through
my machine here. I'm going to cut two of each of or out of each
of the backgrounds. The rest of the
background can be saved for more flowers and
for another project. And really I could
have just done one background and then, and then cut got
four flowers out of it for this particular project. But I completely forgot
where I was going with that, but I wanted the flowers to
look a little different. So that's why we did two, so that they weren't
both exactly the same. Alright. Now, if by chance
you or die cut, that first 11 of the
petals happened to be outside or popped out when I was taking it
out of the paper. If that doesn't happen, there's little holes in dicots. Specifically for this
reason, you can take a pic, you can take a little thumbtack and it'll help you pop
that out of there. Alright, now for this one here, this one is pretty much
all the same color, so it doesn't really
matter exactly where I cut it out of. This one is going on a
lighter background as well. And you'll see some of that. And that's the heavier, thicker and thicker areas got stuck to the plate just
because of the pressure. Once you're done doing
your die cutting, you're going to want to take that isopropyl alcohol and
clean your plates off so that is clean for the next
time you want to use it. Alright, one there and I need one more and then
same with your die. Some of that alcohol
ink is going to transfer as your die cutting. It just does it to clean up, spray some of that
isopropyl alcohol on, and then you use a paper
towel to wipe it off. Can use an old toothbrush
if it gets stuck in areas that you need to scrub a
little bit to get it off. Just going to put this
to the side for now. Alright, so let's get
this die cut out. You'll find sometimes it
comes out really quick and easy and sometimes it likes
to fade a little bit more. So now what we're going to
do is I'm going to take, Actually do this before time. You poll paper. You don't typically want
to use a heat gun with it because it melts and works. And so you can't emboss on
UPA paper it for that reason. But we can also use
that to our advantage. So what I'm going
to do, I'm going to take one flower and I'm
going to use that heat and have it melt and warp the paper so that I get
some little shapes in here. And we can't really
control it to a point. But if you do find that there's an area that's
moving more than you like, go to a different area,
let that cool down. I don't hold my heat gun on it. That's just too much heat.
Keep moving it around. I don't want this to
completely curl up. I just want some texture to it. I'm going to leave
that like that. So you do need something
to hold it down, otherwise, this would
just blow away. But look at how it gets. Just movement and texture to it. It does curl it up. If you wanted. You could alcoholic
both sides so that if you see the whites there, it would be the color
of your alcoholic, but I don't mind
seeing that white. So I left it that way. Now the second one. Now I want this one
to be flatter than my first one because I'm
going to put this first one Over the second one and I don't want them
to completely curl up. So I'm going to use my
distress collage medium. This works on the UPA paper. Put some in the
center of the flower. Then use my tool here
to press it down. And then I'm going to
set that aside to dry. When we go to put
the car together, I am going to put some stickers
in the center of this, but I don't want
to put it on there now just because it's
not going to have time enough to completely dry before we're putting
it on our card. But if you were doing
this, say the day before, you can absolutely put your stickers on so
that it has time to dry. For that one. This is a great way to
get just some movement in those flowers when
you're using alcohol inks. When I do flowers
with just paper, I'll often use my fingers to curl them and just
get some movement and curl and some just life
texture into those flowers. But this is a great way
to do it with alcoholics. That one there fluctuate over sometimes if you get
it quick enough, you can flip it back. This will it hardens but it's not like it's when interfere with
mailing or whatever, but you don't want if you
don't want it forward, you can heat it up
again with the heat gun and put it back. But you have to be quick. So once again, I'm
using my distress collage medium and
you might have notice that it's squished
out a little bit on that first one.
That's totally fine. Just dress collage medium is a dries completely clear
and it also dries matte. So once this is dry
and on our project, we're not going to
see that little bit on my board there,
but there we go. We have two flowers
that are gonna be beautiful on the cards
that were gonna make. Let that dry completely. And then we're gonna
move to the next part, which is starting to
create those cards.
9. Happy Holidays Card: Lift ink Technique & Assembly: Alright, so the first
card that we're going to create is this one here. And the very first
step is we're gonna do the alcohol lift ink image, and then we're going
to stamp them onto these other pieces for
the other two cards. So this one here is glossy card stock and it's
got a glossy finish to it. And this one here is
just playing card stock. So the first one I'm
going to stamp off onto is the glossy card stock. And then I'm going to
stamp off onto the plane. So make sure you've
got a good amount of the alcohol lift ink on there. Choose where you want to stamp
on your background here. Any of these really thick areas are not going to
lift off very well. So I try to avoid those areas. Hold the stamp down with
one hand and press firmly, make sure it has
really good contact with your background there. And then stamp this one down. There we go. Set that aside to dry. I'm going to leave that there and we'll use that
in just a moment. For this, to lift
this off completely, we're going to need a pair of completely clean paper towel. Press it down on the image, flip it over, press
it down on the image. And I do this four times. If you feel it needs more
than you can do it more. But I find what we're
doing here is lifting up the wet ink from that alcohol lifting
and you can't smear it. Otherwise you're going
to smear your image. And usually four times is good. This time we got that much. So now we're going
to take a clear area and we're just going to buff it. And that removes and
cleans up that image. Go set that aside for a second. This one here, there's
still ink on that surface, so I'm just going
to miss it with some isopropyl two
times from each side. And it's just
rehydrating that ink. And typically you
don't want to lose control of your acrylic block
and have a drop on you. But if it does drop, you got to work with
where it drops. There we go. So you see how each time there's just a
little bit less ink. And the glossy card stock, it just the inks just seem a
little bit brighter on it. Regular card stock, it
just seems a little bit on the donor side,
but that's okay. So I'm going to put these
aside. We're going to use them for the next two cards. The stamp can be put
to the side as well. We can start
assembling this card. I've got the card
base already done. I also have my
happy holidays and my greenery die cut
completely done. I found that those are either die cut
exactly the same way as the dicot flowers. So I just didn't think he
needed to see that again. What I tried on this background and it
didn't really work. I tried that very
first technique that I did with the pine cones. And I colored some green onto the stamp and then miss
it it and stamped it. So you'll see a tiny
little bit of green here, but the rest of them you don't actually see, so
I skip that step, but just at the off chance
that you were able to see that green there, That's why it's there. I had high hopes that it
would make the greenery on their pop out a little bit more, have a bit of a different color. And then I went back.
When that didn't work, I chose the gold bellum
greenery die cuts instead. All right, now I only have
one of these die cut. And the reason is I broke it in 1.5 of them is
gonna be glued right there. Oops, need the cap off. Glue. This is just going to help
pump that point set of flower off in the background
a little bit more as well. Make it look a little bit
different from the backing. Now, you'll see my
velum here pops up. And that's because it does not like let's do this one next. It does not like glue. Velum doesn't like any liquid. So as soon as you put a
liquid glue on there, it does tend to pop up, but it relaxes a little
bit once it's dry. You can, if you want, put an acrylic block over top of
it to hold it down in place. Well, everything is drying. I'm actually going to do that while I'm putting glue on the next piece
just to hold it down. I'm using my distress
collage medium. Again, dries
completely clear and it dries matte so you don't
see where the glue is. But with this glossy card
stock here that I've got the word cut out
if you want to be especially careful
to not accidentally get it on the front
of the die cut. Because if you do, you're
going to be able to see a bit of a
different texture. It was one of those
things that probably wouldn't see it unless
someone pointed it out. But just be careful not to get to that glue
onto the front. And really any glue
is going to change the texture of that glossy
card stock anyways. Now I'm going to
put down my flower. You see how just a little, being a little bit lighter, it pops out from the rest of the cards a
little bit better. Then last but not least, I've got some platinum
stickers here that's going to tie in with the gold from the greenery as well as the
gold from the sentiment. I just do little dots. I like it to have
a little bit of the same texture that point said is happening in the middle. There we go. My glue is still wet, but I'm going to let that set, set that aside to dry. I am going to put the acrylic
block on the Happy holidays just to hold that down while it dries once it's completely dry. That's what we've
got right there.
10. Seasons Greetings Card: Lift ink Stamped Image Assembly: So now let's create a card
out of this one here. So we're going to
create this card here. So this is glossy card stock. And remember how I
said you couldn't use heat embossing on Bupa paper. You can absolutely use
it on glossy card stock. So that is what
we're going to do. The first thing
we're gonna do is stamp this season's
greetings stamp. It comes with that
point set a stamp. So we're going to use some
sticky embossing ink. I've got versa mark where you want an ink that's
going to stay wet long enough to hold that powder while you're using
the heat and gut with it. So press your sentiment
firmly so you get a good impression of your image. The powder on there. I've got a little bit of gold powder that
is sticking around that around that stamp that shouldn't be there and it's probably I probably
touched it with my fingers and you've got
oils and your fingers. So it probably is
sticking to that. So before I go and emboss it, I'm taking a soft brush here and I'm just
brushing that stuff away. If I leave it there, It's just going to
melt with the rest of the embossing powder and will
not be able to be removed. So some of it is so close to
the stamped image that I'm not going close to it. I don't want to ruin
my stamped image. But anything that I can
get out with a soft brush, I will because it'll give a cleaner embossed
image. There we go. That's better. Close the cap on a power so we don't get it over the
surface like I just did. Alright, and now I'm
going to use the heat, heat embossing and
I'm going to melt it. You can do it on top or
you could do it below. I tend to do both just because the heat sometimes warps the paper and by doing
it underneath as well, they kinda evens it
out a little bit. Make sure also that you're doing this away from your hand. There we go. So you can see how the paper works a little bit.
And that's totally fine. It's going to be flattened
when we glue it down anyways. But I do try to go underneath to let it flattened
on it, on its own. Alright, so I've got that
same glossy paper that I used for the sentiment
for the last card. And I'm also using it for the
mat around the image piece. It just highlights the
gold that's in there. I think it's a
really nice frame, especially on holiday cards. There we go. Now really this image could
be left like this. Just add a bit of sticklers,
a little bit of sparkle. But I thought it'd
be better to add some dye cuts and just
add some dimension to it. So I've got some greens
here that I cut out. A green card stock could
have been the same, or could have been cut out of the same gold as the last one. But I thought, let's do something
a little bit different. This is actually a little bit
too long for what I want. So I'm going to don't be
afraid to to break into, make your dicots a little bit smaller to fit whatever
project you're working on. Nothing says that you
have to use it as is complete way It's die cut. So I definitely do when
I do break them up, I tried to break them up in an area that is not
gonna be noticeable. So I wouldn't want to take say a silhouette of a big silhouette
and just rip it in half. I want to make it sure that it's not noticeable that
that was done. But easy to do on ones like
these greenery ones here. Alright, so we've got the breast from the alcohol ink print, the gold around the
outside and the gold embossing it just all
ties in together. Now just to tie it in
just a little bit more, I clearly had some red alcoholic on my hand then I just
transferred over. So make sure you
wash your hands. Some of this is going to
stain and it won't come out but busy with other stuff and I didn't take
make sure they're alcoholic was off my hand. I'm going to use some
platinum stickers again, just in the center
of that flower. Like I said before, I
typically just kinda do dots. I want to make sure that
it's not just one even area. I kinda like it to
look a little bit more like a point ceta. The way those centers are, there is our card. That's the way the articles
look when they're wet, but once they're dry, they
flatten out a little bit. And then you'll see really
a lot more sparkle. While it's on my mind that smudge that I got
from my finger there. There's no way to
remove it completely. But what I can do is I can take some isopropyl
alcohol and rub it on there and that's going to bleach it out a little
bit so it's not as noticeable and actually it was light enough that it did
completely remove it. The one thing that was
you don't want to go near the embossing because
the alcohol ink or the alcohol isopropyl alcohol will start to degrade that. But like it, it's
completely gone there. So if by chance you happen
to do that, try that, use some isopropyl alcohol, spray it away from
your project or put a little bit
from your dropper. I don't want to use this
because I had already gotten some of the crimson in there, so it's not completely clear. Put it on your surface, use something small
that you have control and try to remove it.
11. Seasons Greetings Single Layer Card: Lift Ink Stamped Image Assembly: So the last card with the
lift ink stamped image, we're going to keep
it very simple. I didn't add a
dimensional flower to it. I wanted to keep it
very flat just to show that you can create a card with it by not adding
a dimensional flower to it. And it will work
just beautifully. So I'm gonna do
that same season's greetings image that
I dip the last one, we're going to stamp
it and emboss it. I liked this layout
where the flower was on the top and the
sentiment on the bottom. But you could do
that and then over lap them as well.
That would work. Completely personal preference. There we go and there's no
excess powder around that one, so nothing to brush off. Heat gun and melt it. Rico. And then let's glue
or car together so it makes sure that the
fold is going the right way. This mirror card that I'm
using, as I said before, was the one that I die cut to do the holy or sorry,
the Happy Holidays. For this one here, it dicots beautifully as
well, just like the UPA. And great for Christmas
cards or holiday cards. Just that extra
metallic sparkle is lovely. Here we go. Usually it takes a minute or so just for that glue to kind of settle with that
glossy card stock just because it's not
porous on the top. So I'm going to
add some glycerin, Twinkle, twinkle, sorry. Glycerin. Stick to this one just to add a little
bit of sparkle. This glycine won the glitter
is got a gold tone to it, but it's also fairly transparent so you're
not going to lose the image of your points
set up underneath it. I'm going to add
some to the center. And then I just added a
little bit to the greenery. You could also, if
you wanted to just do some outlining of the point set of
flowers a little bit. Just makes it a little
bit more sparkly, a little bit more festive. There we go. There we're going to
let that one dry. And once it's dry, you just
get a beautiful smirk, sparkle from this
that goes on there.
12. Alcohol Ink Techniques for Christmas Cardmaking Class Thank You: Thank you so much for
joining me for alcohol, ink techniques for
Christmas card making. Now remember, we did Christmas
cards in this class, but you can absolutely use
those same techniques for other cards to swap in and
swap out the stamps dies, and different alcoholic colors. Have fun with your
future projects. I hope to see you
back in class soon.