Beginner Woodworking: Joinery | Brittany Joyner | Skillshare

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Beginner Woodworking: Joinery

teacher avatar Brittany Joyner, SoCal WoodGal

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

10 Lessons (29m)
    • 1. Intro to Joinery

    • 2. Four Joints and a Project

    • 3. Materials and Tools

    • 4. Cutting your Mitered Frame

    • 5. Joinery Method 1: Glue and Screw

    • 6. Joinery Method 2: Pocket Holes

    • 7. Joinery Method 3: Dowels

    • 8. Joinery Method 4: Biscuits

    • 9. Finishing your Picture Frame

    • 10. Final Thoughts

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About This Class

In this Basics of Woodworking class, we'll cover 4 different methods of joinery- the art of joining two pieces of wood together.

  1. Intro To Joinery
  2. 4 different Joints we’ll cover and why, and the project we’ll make with it- a picture frame
  3. Types of materials and supplies needed
  4. Cutting your mitered picture frame wood
  5. Joinery Method One- countersunk screws
  6. Joinery Method Two- pocket holes
  7. Joinery Method Three- dowels
  8. Joinery Method Four- biscuits
  9. Finishing
  10. Final Thoughts

This class is for anyone interested in learning different types of joinery methods.  No prior experience required.  Some basic tools are necessary- Eye/ear/lung protection, sander or sandpaper, gloves, paintbrush, cloth or shop towel, sponge brush, miter, jig or handsaw, drill, drill bits, clamps, pocket hole jig, dowel jig, or biscuit joiner.

If you'd like to learn more about Beginner Woodworking, check out my other classes on skillshare!

Setting up your woodshop

Building a simple table

Finishing with paint and stain

Making a wall plaque

Handmade Christmas gifts

Other Skillshare Fine Art Classes

Meet Your Teacher

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Brittany Joyner

SoCal WoodGal



Recently featured in Family Handyman Magazine!


Hello, I'm Brittany.  I'm an avid creator and maker.  Whether in the woodshop, filming a movie or writing songs, I aim to create every day. 

My hope is that you'll be inspired to do the same!



*please note I do not take commissions for either plans or furniture.  Business inquiries can be sent to my email, found at my website.

See full profile

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1. Intro to Joinery: Welcome everybody. Good to see your faces here tonight. Some of you not so much. So I don't know if you've heard this one before. For joins walk into a bar, a cgroup, a pocket hole, a doll, and a biscuit. The bartender, he's a, he's a real dovetail. He says to the verse, screw it, do a straightforward kind of guy. I know you can handle yourself under pressure first one zone may be then turns to the pocket hole and he says, I'm not so sure about you. You always hiding under cover so no one knows how your stay in tight. And you Well, listen, my great, great grams. It was adorable man. And if he was good enough for him, you're good enough for me. That brings me to you biscuit. I never see what you're doing at work, so I'm sure you can keep yourself together. So I'm keeping my eye on you and I don't want to hear no GF put a clamp on it. I'm so cow would GAO that's all for me. Good night. Woodworking puns, much like my mineral spirits from 2001, they just never get old. In today's class we're going to be learning all about join R3. So what is join R3? Put simply, it's how two pieces of wood are joined together. Now, as you can imagine, once you know how to securely attach what together, you're building options will grow by leaps and bounds. There is many different ways to join would as sun dresses I fully intend to wear that are actually gathering dust in my closet. But for today and for beginners, we're going to be covering four different methods. There'll be a project will make with these types of join y3, a picture frame. So we'll also be covering types of materials and supplies. Then we'll cover cutting your metered picture frame would join every method one counter sunk screws, Join Room method to pocket holes, join every method three dowels and join R3 method for biscuits. Well, in the class by finishing our picture frame and adding details in hardware. This class is for anyone interested in learning different types of joins MRI methods, no prior experience is required, but some basic tools are necessary. I, yr and lung protection, sander or sandpaper, gloves, paintbrush, cloth or shop towel, Sponge brush, miter, jig or hands-on drill, drill bits, counter sink bit clamps, pocket hole jig, damaging, or a biscuit joiner. 2. Four Joints and a Project: In today's class, we're going to be learning four types of Joiner and methods. Gluon, screw, pocket, whole, Dow, and biscuit will be practicing them on our project. A picture frame made of one by twos. It's a great idea to know several types of join R3 as each project you build. It's going to have different needs. Sometimes a glue and screw is the easiest, fastest, most direct method you could use. And other times you really need to hide your method with a biscuit or Adele joint so that there's no visible join or a method from any angle. And you can also stain it without messing with wood filler. Other times, you really need the strength and durability of a pocket hole joint for structure and stability. No matter which method you choose, you'll be glad to have multiple options in your arsenal. Okay, enough chit-chat. Let's get started. 3. Materials and Tools: Okay, Before we begin with our joints, Let's go ahead and gather our materials and tools so that we're ready to go. You're going to need a board or to a one-by-two pine. And if you're doing the biscuit joiner method, you're going to need a one by three. These are what we're going to be practicing on for our picture frame. You'll need some sort of saw to cut the wood. A miter saw really is preferable, but a jigsaw or a hand saw. Those can be used as well. Glowing and screwing. You're going to need a drill, drill bits and a counter sink or force NOR bit a little bit larger than your screw heads. For this project, I recommend one and a quarter inch wood screws. If you're doing a pocket hole, I recommend having the K4 pocket hole jig by Craig as will be Pocket holding into an angled piece of wood. And that really is pretty difficult to do with the baseline single jig. Now if you're dabbling, you're going to need adelgid. I got this one for $4 from Harbor Freight. You'll also need Dow's. If you're doing a biscuit joint, then you'll need a biscuit joiner. I got this one used off of Craigslist for $40 less weekend. You'll also need biscuits. I recommend Psi 0. You'll of course need the usual suspects are finishing your project. Our sandpaper, paint or staying and brushes and sponges, polyurethane to protect the wood. And optionally, a piece of around an eighth inch thick acrylic sheet to protect the front of your picture in the picture frame. Now you can optionally use glass as well. Just make sure to have a good quality glass cutter or get it cut by a pro. You'll also need a picture hanger and turn buttons. All right, Now it's time to dive into generate. 4. Cutting your Mitered Frame: If you're wondering why I'm not doing this for my woodshop right now? Probably aren't. Is we're having an unusually rainy and sundry kind of day in what is generally sunny SoCal. So inside it is, alright, this is a big section. So buckle up. Think about the picture frames. You know, chances are mitre to edges used for all four corners of the frame. A metered edge is just a 45 degree angle so that two pieces of wood join for a clean edge in which only a sliver of a joint is shown. We'll use a metered edge for the glue and screw and the pocket whole joint R3. Now the other type of edge will be working with as a butt joint. Now, aside from the hip or a t of that phrase, It's actually a very basic joint where the two pieces joined together in an upside down capital L. You'll see a more visible joint with this edge. We'll use a butt joint for the doll and biscuit joiner R3. Now you're going to have to figure out your lengths based on the size of frame that you want to make. But for our example today, I'm going to be making an 8 by 10 frame. If your picture is eight by ten, then your frame will need to be slightly larger and your measurements will depend on the orientation of your photo as well. It'll be a bit different for the biscuit joiner example because we're gonna be using one by three for that one and it'll be slightly longer than that for mild ends, I do suggest cutting and fitting as you go for the perfect fit for the metered edge with an 8 by 10, the formula usually goes something like this. Take the measurement of your picture, say it's 8 by 10, then take the measurement of your framing wood. For us, it's 1.5 inches since we're using one by 2s, double that number. So 1.5 times two equals three. Then add that number to both the length and the width of your photo. Eight inches becomes 11 inches and 10 inches becomes 13 inches. Now subtract half of an inch from each of these for your photo to be held in place by the inside edges of your frame, which will be a quarter-inch on every side. So your eight by 10 frame will use one by 2s, cut to 10.5 inches and 12.5 inches. You might add just a little bit to that for expansion, probably around, oh, let's say 1 16th of an inch. So now we're going to cut angles. A right angle is 90 degrees. That's just a straight cut. And we'll do that with our butt joint boards. After a far too much mapping for this joint and for an 8 by 10, I came up with two sides at 7.5 inches and a top and bottom at 12.5 inches. This accounts for the widths of the boards as well as a quarter inch overhang on all sides into the 8 by 10 so that it stays in place. Now again, a hands-on fitting will help you out here. For our miter joint, we're cutting that right angle in half. So 45 degrees. You can do this crazy easy on the miter saw, just unlock your miter, dial, turn this all to 45 and lock it in. You'll cut from the very end of the board so that you don't lose any of the links on the long point. Measure from the long 0.10.5 inches plus a tiny bit more for expansion if you choose. This will be the other end of the long point. Cut the same for this side of the board and do not make the angle parallel. It'll be opposing. Do the same for the other two pieces of wood. But your long point measurements should be 12.5 inches plus a bit for expansion. If you don't have a miter saw, you can also do this with a jigsaw or a hands-on. Pull out your speed square and look at the long edge or the hypotenuse of the triangle. This is 45 degrees. So if you line up the edge of the square with the end of your wood and draw the hypotenuse. You'll have your angle that's 45 degrees. Cut this with your choice of tool. Now remember to measure from the long point to the other long point with either 10.5 inches or 12.5 inches, depending on which side of the frame you're cutting. Make sure you flip that hypotenuse around so that the angles are opposing and make your cut. We also need to talk about rabbits. No, not the hobby type. A rabbit is a recess in the wood and can be made with a router or a table saw, or even a chisel. When we go to put our picture in the frame, we need a recessed edge to set it on so that it doesn't fall through or make a large protrusion into the back of the frame. Now unless you have a router, this becomes much harder to do after you've made your edge joints. So if you have a table saw, we'll go ahead and make a rabbit before any joiner he takes place. If you don't have one, don't worry about it. I'm going to show you a quick and dirty trick later on to inset your picture without a table saw or a router. Now if you do have a table saw and know how to use it, follow along, you'll have to remove the blade guard and the splitter. You'll want to lower the blade down until it reaches just about a quarter-inch above the table saw. Then line up your fence so that the blade will remove the very edge of your would. Use a push block to protect your hands and keep the wood flat to the table saw top. This isn't a through cut, which is why we had to remove the blade guard. It's a little more dangerous than the regular table salt setup. So please don't do this without having some basic knowledge of how your table salt works. Your blade is likely around 1 eighth of an inch thick. So push the fence over just a tad. You'll cut another line just to the right of your first, making a total of one-quarter inch rabbit into the wood. Do this to all four pieces to the inside of the frame so that you now have a quarter inch resting ledge on all four inside pieces of the frame. 5. Joinery Method 1: Glue and Screw: Our first joint is going to be glued and screwed together. This joint is pretty simple and uses minimal tools. First we want to line up our miter. It ends perfectly and clamp them down very securely to a flat surface so that they don't budge. Get both pieces of wood under that clamp so that you can drill all the way through. This won't be a straight on drill as you'll miss your metered edge if you do it that way. So start from the top of your frame about 1.5 inches over from the edge and drill into the side piece at an angle so that the bit hits the inside part of the side frame. Do this slowly as robots like to snap on you when drilling at an angle, your drill bit should be just under the thickness of your screw so that if you put this group behind your bit, you'll see the spirals of the screw protruding out the sides. I like to start my drill straight on and then I ease it into the angle I want so that there is less strain on the bit. Then you're going to pull out your counter sink bit or forced in a bit that's slightly larger than your one and a quarter inch long screw heads plays a counter sink hole over your drilled hole, an angle that a little bit as well. You'll only need to go down about maybe an eighth of an inch or so for it to cover the head of the screw, unclaimed your joint and next, place some glue on your miter, it ends and reclaim AMP now screw into the whole starting straight on then going at an angle following your drilled path. Next, remove the clamp and put your frame facing you from the side, clamped down again. We're going to put a screw in the opposing side for more strength and we'll do it near the top of the side, aiming for the top outside edge of the top frame. Do this the same way as before. Now, do this for all the sides. And that's the gluon screw method, easy peasy. 6. Joinery Method 2: Pocket Holes: Our next joint is going to be made by a pocket hole. Pocket holes make a very strong joint and they are the preferred method of joining me in my shop. They're easy to make, easy to use and they don't take a lot of fuss. Now you do have to have some upfront investment, but as it's not a power tool, it will likely last the life of your wood shop. As I mentioned before, you're really going to want the K4 Craig jig or higher for this one as the individual baseline Craig jig, It's going to be hard to place on your metered end of wood. So let's get familiar with our Craig jig. First thing claimed the edge down to a flat surface so that your project doesn't shift when you drill. I also like to hook my vacuum to the port here so that it sucks up the sawdust as I work and it contains all of the sawdust and, and helps clean up the mess. If you look at the back, you'll see a scale for the thickness of the wood. Turn the knob counterclockwise to loosen and then adjust the drilling insert to the thickness of your wood. Now for us today, that's three-quarter inch. Tighten the knob to set it. Next you'll see this scale on the side of the jig. This also refers to the thickness of the wood, but it's for the adjustment of your drill bit. Place the Craig drill bit, which is special in the cradle with its depth color attached and flush to the ledge. Then with the lock screw loosened with an Allen wrench, move the bit itself until the flat end of the bit, not the point matches with your thickness of wood. Again, for us, that's three-quarter inch. Now tighten that lock screw down on the drill bit. Your jig is now set. Next, we're going to place our wood minored in down into the jig. Make sure it's flat against the surface of the jig and check to see if any of the drilling holes are exposed. If so, don't use that whole or move the wood around until you how the holes pointing where you want them into the wood. You don't want to drill into the side of the wood, which will happen if any of the drill holes are exposed. Drill your holes, I suggest to you only need to do this on either the two sides or the top and bottom, not both. You'll drilled two holes into both monitored ends of each side or top and bottom. And now you're ready to attach spread glue if wanted, but it's not absolutely necessary. Now clamp your joint onto a flat surface with the pocket holes facing up. You really want to make sure to get both metered ends covered by your clamp if possible so that your wood doesn't shift as you drill. Grab a one and a quarter inch Craig screw, which is the link do you use for three-quarter inch thick wood. And your square drive places grew in a hole and gently drive it into the other mired end. Now I like to drive it a little back it out a bit, then drive it a little bit more several times in order to mitigate would splitting. You might also want to place your hand on the opposite end to feel for the screw pushing too far and popping out the end of the wood. Putting your drill on a lower torque, say around 11 to 13 can help with this. But I find it's better to be safe than sorry. Do this with all the other pocket holes. A voila, you have learned out pocket whole joint. Congratulations. 7. Joinery Method 3: Dowels: All right, Now onto Joining Method 3 diol joints. This joint is used for everything from chairs to tables to pretty much everything in between. And it really is one of the older join MRI methods. It makes a strong joint and has relatively little buy-in Since you can get a very cheap, very basic jig, much like this one for $4 at Harbor Freight. Okay, let's go over the components of this jig. First we have the drill bit which matches the size of your del. The bit has a depth color on it that can be adjusted via this tightenings screw with an Allen wrench. Next, we have the dowels themselves. These are fluted, but dolls come in different textures. The idea is with the texture, it allows glue to settle into the lines for more strength. The DOW, when installed we'll sit halfway and one piece of wood and the other half will sit in the opposing piece of wood, leaving you with no exposed holes. Now next we have these data centers, which are a handy-dandy device to help you make your holes match up on the wood, which is vital to your joint actually working. We're using a butt joint here. Fancier jigs actually have a whole setup where it sits on top and bottom of the wood helping you make your whole centered. But for this jig and simplicity sake, we're just going to eyeball it. The important thing is for your holes to match, which the dowel centers are going to really take care of for you. Set your butt joint flush on a flat surface, mark align with the right angle for the first hole and another for the second. Then set your depth color. You'll want it to stop the drill when you're half the length of the dowel plus a tiny bit more for glue expansion, tightened the depth color. Take one end of your wood and drill two holes symmetrical with one another. Taking note of your lines, try to make the hole as close to the center of the thickness of your wood as possible. And I'm doing this on the end grain first. And I'll take these cool little metal dal centers and place them in the holes you've just made on a flat surface. Bring your other piece of wood to them, keeping a flush edge, press them together and give the new piece of what a tap with a hammer. You've now made it an exact mark where the Dow whole should be placed to match up, drill your holes the same as you did with the other piece of wood. Check for fit with your Dells. If everything looks right, then go ahead and make your holes on the other corners of your frame. Check your fit after each one. Okay, now it's time to glue it up, will be putting a thin coat both on the inside of the holes as well as the outside of the dowels. You can do this with a small paint brush, put your dels in and press your joint together, cleaning out any excess glue that squeezes from the joint, clamp it overnight to let the glue dry. And now you know how to make a doll joint. 8. Joinery Method 4: Biscuits: The fourth and final joint we'll be covering today is a biscuit joint. Now, I'm learning this with you. I bought this use one from someone off of Craigslist this last weekend for $40, interested in learning about biscuit joints because of some tabletops that I've been making recently. And I join them by pocket hole, but I really would have preferred to have a completely hidden joint Enter the biscuit joiner. A biscuit joiner works by cutting a half ellipsis into your wood, where you'll then glue in these thin wooden wafer is called biscuits, much like a dao, half of the biscuit sits and glue in one piece of the wood and the other half does the same. In the other. It leaves you with no exposed holes and two pieces of wood joined together seamlessly. There are differing opinions as to whether a biscuit joint adds much stability and strength to a joint over just a straight glue in your projects. But for our purposes today, it's great for a picture frame as there's going to be very little stress on any of the joints for a tabletop joining boards edge to edge. This is also going to work great, but maybe perhaps think twice about it with projects that require great structural stability. Let's explore this tool together. Now please note that this is specific to a real be biscuit joiner. Read your manual if you have a different one as the knobs and layout may differ a little bit. This rubber handle can be folded up and down. And the first thing I notice is the depth gauge. This refers to the size of viscous that you're cutting. We're doing size 0. So check out this knob on the back. There are three different lengths of lines marked. We want the smallest one, as that refers to the size 0 biscuit. You can also see on the back of the knob where it rotates the size. The other two are 10 and 20. Pull the NADH back and turn it to the smallest line. You can then check your depth with the gauge. Push the blade forward and you'll see that it stops at the edge of the gauge, which denotes a size 0 ket. Next up is the workpiece height gauge. We're working with three-quarter inch thick woods, so we'll set the height to three-quarter and lock it in with the ankle knob. The angle knob can be adjusted for angled would. But for us today, we just need the straightforward 90 degrees once these two knobs are locked in as well as the depth knob in the back. We're all set to use this tool. If yours has a desk port, feel free to connect your vacuum or a dust bag to collect this oddest you kick up. Remember we're using one by three would for this joint as the biscuit would be a bit too big for a one-by-two. This is also a butt joint rather than a mitre. Make your mark across the wood on each piece so that you can line up your holes. Do it halfway across the wood. There's a mark down the center of this front handle that you can line up with your pencil lines so you know that it'll match up for both sides. Claim pure would securely to a flat surface. We'll start with the end grain. Place the joiners so the handle pieces resting flat on top of the wood. The ingrain should be budded up to the blade housing of the joiner. Check your center line and move the joiner until it matches your pencil line. Hold the rubber handle down to the face of the wood while you engage the trigger and slowly push the joiner into the wood. If there's a lot of resistance, go at it in a few passes, going deeper, cut. Your handled be protected from the blade since the wood and the blade are all contained beneath your handle piece. So next we take our other piece of wood and clip it securely. Place the side of the wood flat to the blade housing and line up the pencil mark with the center line on the handle area as before, push in and cut. Now, check the biscuit for fit. If everything looks right, then move on to the other corners of the frame and do the same cuts. Then put glue in the holes as well as on the end grains and place a biscuit and each hole and close up the joints, clean up any excess glue, clamp overnight for the glue to dry. And that's it. We've learned together how to make a biscuit joint. 9. Finishing your Picture Frame: All right, way to go. You've now learned for different types of join hurry. This basically makes you a joint boss, which sounds pretty cool. To wrap things up, we're going to finish and put on the final details on this picture frame. If you did the glue and screw method, the next thing you're gonna wanna do is pack those counters on coals with wood filler so that you have a smooth surface and no visible screws. You can screed this off with a putty knife or just happen in with your finger and sanded down later for this joint and all of the others give you frame a good sand down, go progressively from 80 grit to 120 grit until you get a smooth surface. If you did not make the rabbit on the back of your frame when you cut the wood. Now is the time to learn a quick and dirty trick that will allow you to place a front guard and your photo into the back and be held securely at the big-box home improvement stores. There's something called lattice molding. You'll find it in the molding and trim section. We want the one that's one-quarter inch thick and one and an eighth inch wide. We're going to attach this with nails on the back of our frame and it will act as our rabbit giving a recess to place the photo, measure the lengths, cutting and fitting as you go so that the lattice sits flush with the sides of all of the frames except the biscuit joint one. This one is a little bit different because it uses one by 3s. For that one, make a mark 3 eighth of an inch out from the center edge of each frame piece. Connect your marks all around making a rectangle. The lattice molding will line up with this mark, leaving a 3 eighth inch rabbit as well as a recess on the other side. Measuring cut and fit to make your lattice frame. I'll be using my brad nail or with very short nails for this, but you can absolutely just use a hammer and small nails. They shouldn't be any longer than 5 eighth inch long nails or they're going to break through onto the surface. Now, it's time to finish. Here are some quick tips. Make sure your frame is free from any deaths by wiping it with a damp cloth. If you're staining, put on some gloves and dip a shop towel or a sponge brush into your sane and cover your wood on all sides and front and back. Wipe down the excess. If you're painting, dip your paint brush and your paint and give nice even strokes all over your project. You might need to coats, drying in-between each coat. Let your frame drive from either stain or paint for 24 hours, then give it a coat of polyurethane or wax. I like a sponge brush. We're Polly and I use a shop towel for wax, buff the wax after it's dried for a few minutes, after the poly is dry, a half-day should be fine. We're going to put the final touches on the frame. If you bought an 8 by 10 piece of acrylic sheet from the store, which I recommend this was only, I think 350. You're all set. If yours is bigger, you'll have to cut it down. You can do this with the box blade or a specialty plastic cutter that they sell next to the acrylic sheets at the store. Keep the protective sheet on to protect from scratches and make your marks where you need to cut. For us, we need eight by 10. So Mark one measurement at eight inches and the other at 10. Set the sheet on a flat work surface and clamp a board or a measuring stick to the line that you've drawn, then score the line until you've caught at least halfway through the sheet. Then line up the marked cut to the edge of a table or workbench and clamp the sheet down next while holding the tabled section with one hand, take the cut edge and bend it down until it snaps. If you want to use glass, please be careful. I've cut myself every single time I've ever cut glass and it almost never cuts right for me. But if you insist, we'll do one cut. But just one start by making your lines just as with the plastic clamp a piece of wood or a measuring stick as your straight edge a little past the line. Don't plant too hard or you'll probably break the glass. You might want to place the glass on a towel for a little protection as well. Put some oil on your glass cutting wheel and don't use the glass cutter from Harbor Freight. Trust me, it's garbage. The idea is you make your cut in one solid pass, no stopping. You don't want to go over the line more than that because of reasons completely unknown to me. It's supposed to sound like a zipper as you go down. So let the straight edge guide your mark and gives steady even pressure to the scoring will add a bit of an angle. Then place the glass with the mark lined up with the edge of your table and with thick gloves on, give a light WACC and the edge should break free. If it doesn't. Well, welcome to my club of those who cannot cut glass. Next, we're going to kind of backing from cardboard so that there's some protection behind our photo. Simply score an 8 by 10 out of a box you have sitting around. Use one a little bit thicker than a cereal box. Next, we're going to put a hanger on the top of this frame. A while back. I talked about these sought to painters. These are my favorite measure and mark halfway across your top and line up the center tooth with this mark. Also make a line about half of an inch down from the top in order to keep a level line with the sawtooth pre drilled tiny holes at the holes of the hanger. Then hammer in the tiny nails that come with the sawtooth hanger. Last and finally, we're going to install these little guys. They're called turn buttons. And I had to order them online as I couldn't find them anywhere in my store. These are going to hold the photo and plastic and cardboard backing into place. Place one on each piece of your frame near the center and set it so that the whole is on the wood and the tail holds down the center of the frame. You can bend these easily to whatever depth you need, then screw them into the wood pre drilling to avoid any cracking. And that's it. You now know how to make a picture brain and you can do this for any size print that you have with ago. 10. Final Thoughts: Yeah, you did it. Now you know for different methods of join R3, as well as how to make a picture frame, which is pretty cool. I don't know about you, but I'm feeling pretty damn powered right now. I encourage you to continue building up your shop source wood and tools from Craigslist, pain, your inspiration photos to your Pinterest page so that you can have pictures that'll inspire future projects. And most of all post a picture of your finished frame here and love to see what she made. Now let's get building.