Watercolor Kingfisher Step by Step | Paul Cheney Artist | Paul Cheney | Skillshare

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Watercolor Kingfisher Step by Step | Paul Cheney Artist

teacher avatar Paul Cheney, Teaching watercolour and digital painting

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      1:43

    • 2.

      Preparing to Paint

      1:50

    • 3.

      Painting The Chest First Layer

      3:41

    • 4.

      Painting The Chest Second Layer

      9:53

    • 5.

      Painting The Head and Back First Layer

      4:37

    • 6.

      Painting the Head and Back Second Layer

      9:39

    • 7.

      Painting The Eye And The Beak

      7:43

    • 8.

      Painting The Feet And Adding Details

      8:47

    • 9.

      Painting The Branch

      4:00

    • 10.

      The Finishing Touches

      6:12

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About This Class

If you love watercolour and want to learn how to loosen up and let go but still achieve a sense of realism then this class is for you!  

In this course you will learn:


• How to apply simple washes in my style to achieve a loose but still realistic look to your painting.


• What details are important and which ones you can overlook.


• How to use value to define shapes and forms.


• How to blend your colours and decide between hard and soft edges.


• How to use just enough detail to make your painting feel real.

Along with these great topics I also share invaluable tips and tricks that I have learned over the many years I have spent working as a professional watercolour artist.

You will be creating this beautiful Kingfisher.  I have rated this class as intermediate but even if you are new to watercolour the methods used are easy enough for beginners.  If you have always wanted to loosen up your painting style this is a great place to start.

Materials:

I have provided a detailed list of the materials I used to create this painting and suitable alternatives with respect to the colours in case you do not have them.
You can download the Materials list in the Projects and Resources section

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Paul Cheney

Teaching watercolour and digital painting

Teacher


Hello, I'm Paul. Prior to the pandemic, I ran a small independent watercolour shop in PARIS ONTARIO. I enjoyed teaching watercolour to hundreds of people in person. Fast forward a few years and I am now transitioning my teaching process online. I think it is imperative when teaching online to do your best to offer the same level of quality instruction. People have to understand the concepts and be able to apply them to their own work. Whether in person or online, learning art is a skill that anyone can master. Sure it might come easier to some people but there is no magic, hidden talent etc.

Art is a learned skill, no one is born with it - like most skills - it just takes practice. I hope you enjoyed my classes, please leave feedback if you can!



... See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello and welcome to this intermediate watercolor painting class. My name is Paul Cheney. I've been a watercolor painter for almost 15 years now. During that time, I have made just about every mistake you can possibly make. And watercolor painting today, I hope to help you not do the same. In this course, we'll be painting this beautiful watercolor painting of a king fisher. The course covers everything from start to finish and is broken down into easy to follow chapters. We will begin our painting with simple washes and gradually work our way up to the finer details. Now, don't worry if your drawing skills are not up to this subject. I provided you with a simple outline, trace onto your watercolor paper as well. I provided you with a guide that will help you practice your drawing skills and instructions on how to use it. Please be sure to post your finished painting in the projects and resources section. It's a great way for me to provide you with feedback as well as to inspire others. If you have any questions about this course or any of my courses, please post them in the discussion section here. If you wish to speak to me one-on-one by all means, reach out to me through my website or Instagram. I'm always happy to hear from you. Thank you so much for investing your valuable time and taking this course. There's nothing more inspiring to me than other people wanting to learn what I do. I can't wait to see your finished artwork. Happy painting. 2. Preparing to Paint: Welcome. Today we're painting our king fisher. So I've got my sketch on the paper here. The first thing I do is tape it down to the board. If you've watched my videos in the past and you've seen me do this 100 times already, please feel free to skip, but for those of you that are new to this, this is my process. I am now putting a taping the paper down to the board and board. It's a piece of cardboard. You could use any board, plywood, hard board, any kind of thing you could do right to the table if you like. The reason I do this is it keeps the paper flat, stops it from buckling and bending. It will buckle up as it when it's wet, but it will then dry to be flat. Which for a lot of reasons is a good thing, mainly because if you end up with your paper all wavy and wobbly, when you're putting on another layer or a lot of water, that water will pull where in the lower parts of the paper and paper and that may not be where you like it. And then of course at the end, you're going to have a flat painting versus a wavy and wobbly one. Okay. So no real rhyme or reason to how I put that on other than there's about a quarter of an inch around in some places a bit higher than others. Main part is I want it stuck to the board nice and tight. Hey, we'll stick by itself to the paper. Very well. You don't have to worry about that too much. Tape I use is a frog tape. So the brand, it tends to To do the least damage to the paper when you're peeling it up. And that's that portion of it. The next thing I sometimes do is go around and give myself a roadmap as to where I'm going to have darks and lights. I'm going to keep the drawing on this painting to a minimum. If you feel you need more detail than by all means, go ahead and add in some more details so you know where the paint is gonna go. But to me, the less detail that we have in the painting and the drawing, sorry, the more loose the painting will be. 3. Painting The Chest First Layer: Okay, so our king fisher, we've got a couple main areas that are very obvious and apparent on our king fisher here. If we look at the reference painting, reference photograph, sorry, we've got basically two main colors in the chest area. We've got a light pale yellow color and then a deep burnt orange color. And then again in the head area, we've got a light pale blue and then a dark area liquid. There's little flecks and stuff like that. Fluorescent orange and the feet and then a slightly darker value and the colors below the branch will probably leave out all the bits like the moss and stuff like that and just do a simple branch. We don't want to take away from the bird too much. I like the, I like the intensity and the I will keep that maybe darken it up even a bit more. And then of course, the beak, we basically got two layers and the beak we've got a light area on the top and the dark area on the bottom. So the first thing I think we'll do is we'll tackle this chest area here. And to do that, we're going to start, we'll probably do this in two, maybe three layers, see how it goes. So we're going to basically find this pale color here. It's a pale yellow color. We've got, you've got cadmium yellow light here, but that's a very cool kind of definitely not what's going on there. We've got some raw sienna here or raw umber, I believe raw sienna, and that is definitely more in line with that. So why don't we grab some of this and we're gonna just going to dilute it a lot with water to get that lighter color there. I'm going to mix in a bit of cadmium yellow light just to, there we go. Okay, so now you can see that this is pretty similar. Maybe warm it up a tad. They're at in a bit more water. Now, I'm using my squirrel hair brush or any brush will be fine. You want to avoid using a very small brush and trying to fill in a large area like this quickly because you just can't hold the same amount of water and paint. So feel free. You can go to a larger round brush if you like. It doesn't have to be that big. Obviously you want to be able to work comfortably when the area that you can. So good rule of thumb, the largest brush that you can use to achieve the goal that you want. The reason being is this holds a lot of water and a lot of paint, and it's a very light color. So we need to use a fair bit of it on our brush and then dilute it, diluted sorry, with with water. So I just took another look at that and I think it's a bit, there, be a little bit lighter than it shows on the palette. Alright, so step one, let's get this onto the paper here. So we've got this light area up at the top. Just want to make sure that I know where that is. I've got my pencil lines are in there. And you can see how my pencil lines. You guys want to make sure that I'm using a water-soluble pencils. So if I go over top of it really hard, then I'm going to lose where those are. I don't want to have a uniform wash. I want some areas to be lighter in some areas to be darker because that's the reality of what's going on in our picture there. And I want these to show through selectively when I put on the next layer. So this is all really, I'm only a few light areas there are, so I'll come over here even though this wouldn't be much darker. You can see how loosely I put that down and how relaxed and easygoing It was. I'll pick up a bit more paint and plop it in a few areas here, just for the effect of giving it some variation. Now, we're going to let that dry and see how easy that is, easy-peasy. We've got this area down here too. Let's throw in a little bit there. Okay, now we're going to let it dry and we'll come back when that's dry. And then we will go to the burnt orange color. 4. Painting The Chest Second Layer: So our orangey burnt orange color, that's up and around in here. We've also got a dark shadow area there that will probably try and address and this layer, Let's see how this dried. Basically a nice simple wash. There's a few little blossom areas there if you're white patches left. Any of those little details, things like that. I kind of like the add character to the painting. So I'm not worrying about those. I'm actually not worried but anything. One area that I want to be aware of here is my light area here that I made too dark because it's very bright in the in the painting there. Like this area up here is okay, but I'm going to just grab a different brush and I'm just going to try and lift some of that out. And I want to keep that effect. It'll be fine when it's all said and done. It'll show relative to the rest of it. It'll look just dandy. But while I'm thinking of it, it's showing you how we can fix a little simple things like that. I'm pushing with a brush load. This is an older brush for a long time and it's getting a little rough around the edges. But it's what it's allowing me to do is I'm not worrying about breaking it. Like if I tried to do that with this brush, these hairs are really fine. It would destroy it in minutes. And I don't want that. I quite like my little squirrel hair brush, like this brush too. But There we go. We're going to have to darken that up in there, this little shadow under there. But for now, we're going to leave that area there. I am just going to make a little pencil line around it. I'll be done that too dark. I just wanted to know where that is because what will happen is if I come right up here when I put the next layer on and that's still wet, well then my burnt orange color is going to run up into that area that I just tried to rescue. We don't want that. Do we need to know? Okay, let's go over to our palette and attempt to make a bright orange color. So I've got some orange here and now that is excellent for the feet. But for our chest, it's a little dark. So I'm going to take some sepia and mix it in there. That's great for the shadow area, but I think that's too dark for most of the chest. We can always add more orange and go back and forth. But I think no matter what we do, we're going to end up with that being too dark, That's great for the shadow color. So we'll leave that clean off my brush. I'm going to grab some of my raw raw sienna. I bet you I mix those together. Will that work? Getting pretty close? Here we go. Okay. Yeah, and that actually works well because I've got some colors are just really intense and they just wanted to have all the attention. So you end up, now I'll get light and it's more raw. Raw sienna, raw sienna. The names mixed up. So hard to talk and do things at the same time. Okay. What do we got? How's our color there? Buddy? Oh, maybe not. Yeah, I think that's good. Okay. Let's get that color on them. Okay. So we're gonna watch out for the area there that's a light. We're just going to come up to the edge here. We're getting the color on. Grab a bit more orange, I think. Too much. There we go. Try that. Okay. It's lighter down here in the center, we've got a darker area over here, and then it's lighter. In the middle here we've got a lighter area down here. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna kinda put in some of these darker colors here. Very careful up here. Keep that exposed. I don't want these to dry, so I want to be careful that I don't let this sit too long. I clean off my brush as much as I can there and lots of water in here. I'm just dabbing in some clean water. You can see how loose and easy it is. I'm trying to avoid getting hard lines. So avoid that. And just put in lots of water to give us that lighter area there. Now, down here it's darker. So let's get some of that water off. Grab the darker color, maybe even a bit more of the sienna there. For down here where it got really dark. I'm going to touch those together so that they blend and bleed. But more see uneven. There we go. I can even dab some of that along here. Now. You just get this on and then I'll talk a bit more sienna here. It's almost pure. Well, it is pretty dark down here that values like getting really dark down at the bottom. They touched together, they should be okay. Okay. One of the things about using a squirrel hair brush or a brush like this is they hold a lot of water, but they also hold a lot of pigment. So when it comes time to get it off and clean, it can be a bit more work than maybe you are prepared to deal with. I take some getting used to, but I quite like them. We will probably add in more shadow down here later just because I'm trying to bit more grabbing pure sienna there. I might even use like a neutral tint or Payne's gray or something like that to get that really, really dark area there. And the water is kind of pooling down there. Makes up a little bit darker color that has less water in it. Forever. The top here. Okay. Even this out a bit. Put some water in there. Okay. We, now we can do this little area up here at the top. We've got so that brighter orange. And this comes pretty much right underneath the eye here. And it gets darker at the bottom. Later over there. You can use a smaller brush for this, don't feel the need to use a giant brush. And these detailed areas, again, remember, the largest brush to come to achieve the goal that you're trying to do. Some example like coming up in here, this, I can use the very fine point on that brush. But there's really no point, no pun intended. And it would've been a good one if I did intend it. This just orange up in here. Don't worry about it too much because you're going to, if you don't get it bang on because all the other colors are darker that are going to fill in. Over top of it. We're just getting out of a base layer down there. Okay, I'll grab some dark now. We're here at the bottom. Throw on some of that up at the top, that blend in. Now this in here should come over this way more. I just want that to be not so over, not so much of a hard edge there. Okay. I think I'm going to actually grab a little bit of indigo. Just bear with me here. And then I want to add in, see if I can get this dark color all done in this layer. The more, the less layers you have, the better your painting will look. That's just one of those golden rules. Less is always best. And watercolor, indigo is a very dark color. I use it quite often in almost all of my paintings. I'm losing a leg down here. So I want to make sure I rescue that. I'm just lifting some of this paint out. Using my brush, my brush, my Bravo my brush like a mop. And yeah. Okay. We'll let that dry and we'll come back. We may we'll probably add some finishing touches in the end. We still need to do the, oh, we still need to do the bottom. Whoops, daisy. Let's do that. Bottom area will grab the dark color here with our orange mixed in, maybe a bit more orange. And put that down here. Well, you could add some more of the indigo or whatever you like and you're using just sienna or whatever brown color we're using and put it up in the very top there because that's going to be a shadow under there. Blend it in underneath the log there. Okay. Alright. Now we're going to let it dry. 5. Painting The Head and Back First Layer: So let's look at how our painting dried here. So it looks pretty good. I think just for a bit of character and a bit more texture, we need another layer, perhaps over a brighter orange color in some areas, but nothing too much vary a little bit. This area down here, we kinda got a little blossom or the water pooled. And I want this to come down in that direction. This is a lighter area down here. So really, all we're gonna do for that is just kinda brush out that top bit there. Like so. So we're pushing feathers down in the right direction. And then we can add a little bit of shadow area down here over top of the leg. We can darken that up a bit the next time when we do the next layer. But for now let's move on to the head and back in the blue areas. So like we mentioned, there's two light blue areas there. We've got basically underneath the lighter area and then we've got a darker area. We're taught the way watercolor works, being translucent, we can't really paint light over top unless we start using gouache and stuff like that. Which I think is fine for a little highlight here or there, but I don't want to turn my whole painting into something like that. So I'm going to put down a base layer of the lighter color. And then we will do a darker color over top. Probably add in some sea salt or something like that to give the texture of the kind of spotty areas up there. But for now let's move over to the palate and sure. Palette is pelleting, okay, it is. And we will grab a lighter color. I think this is a cobalt blue. Yeah. We'll go with that as a cobalt blue. And I think with a bit of water diluted down that should come out just about being onto what we want. It's almost like a white blue color there. Feel free to clean off your palate of the other colors. You can always mix them up again later if you don't have a lot of room. One of the reasons I like having a large pallet. It's for that reason a fair bit of water on here. I'm just going to try to be careful and not make a big mess. It's using the tip of my brush. Now when you get a lot of big puddle like that, you can always come back and grab it and put it, use it elsewhere on your painting, which you want to avoid is a drawing and getting some hard lines that you don't want to have. So that's why a lot of water is good. It also keeps the painting loose. And that's how I like to paint. Okay. So that's pretty much it for Tambora had there we've got this blue area underneath here. Not worrying too much about the paint overlapping later. Lily ray, that comes down there, but we don't just for consistency, I put this down here. You don't you can just move right on to the darker color. But for consistency, I think we will flick out a few some of that water up there, bring it down. Darker areas. I'm not going to worry too much about this part down underneath the eyes. For now. It will do it all with it. We'll just use like solid indigo on that. We're just trying to fill in any little spaces that I don't want. Okay, now there's a very light blue color up in the wings here, but I'm not going to worry about that. You could put in some sea salt if you want it to for that. Now that I said it, I will do it just to show you basically have got some coarse sea salt here and that should give us some little flecks. They're a bit more up here too, just, just for the fun of it. So give it a bit of variation in how it, how it dries. Okay, So now again, like we did in the other layers, we have to let this dry and then we're gonna put another layer over top. And for that I think we're going to use probably just like we could use an ultra marine or a fellow blue. Just a darker blue that compliments this one. Well. 6. Painting the Head and Back Second Layer: So let's take a look and see how did this dry. We've got are you can see are where assault went there and made some lighter areas in that blue. Again, not overly necessary, and that's something that you'll see done. And people make the mistake of saying, well, I made a painting and now I gotta put sea salt in it. Like anything, it can be really overdone really quick, so use it sparingly. I just thought it's a good example. I've said it, so I put it in. I tried to avoid things like that as much as possible. I think watercolor on its own, if you leave it alone and let it do its thing. It looks fantastic already. So I just basically, once it's dry, it's going to be hardened into your painting there. So just very lightly push it with your fingers to get it off and try not to make sure if it's wet you not getting fixed streaks across your painting there. I've got a few little splatter bits there, but that's okay. People always like them. So if you get one by accident, leave it again. It's taking your brush and going on with the splatter across your painting. Get done, can get very overdone very quickly. A couple of ways we can handle the top here and the darker areas we can literally go across and put lines in, but it's not going to look good no matter how you do it, unless you spend a huge amount of time going in and doing those. Nothing wrong with that if you wanna do it. My paintings. So I like to keep things loose and I don't like to put in a huge amount of detail stuff. I just think it takes away from what watercolor is. But if that's your forte by all means, it wouldn't be hard to do. You can just take a little section and go line by line and just fade them out. But for today we're just going to rep, make a representation of it. So over here on the palette, we are mixing some fallow blue in with our lighter blue just because that's bases there. And it's that way too, they kind of blend in together. So I'm going to look at this and say, where are the darker areas in here? There's a dark area down here, so I'm in there. And over here, it's darker. Like that. Goes down here like this. Now I'm going to put in some just a little random water spots here. The darker paint. Ok. Now you may not like that, but just bear with me. I don't want to get all my orange there, which I did list that out before. It gets worse. Okay. You grab some water. I'm just going to go along here and blend these together. Okay. So now we've got the darker areas, like even darker. So for that we're gonna go into indigo or go too dark. And we're going to bring some of that in while this is still wet. It will blend nicely that way. Really messed up that spot there, excuse me, while I grab a piece of paper towel and dab it out. And I just want to be able if I if I put in indigo over top of that, I'll never get that orange spot back. So I'm just gonna make sure that it's dry and paint doesn't bleed. Their mission accomplished, we can move on. Okay, so now we'll come over this way and come down here along this back here part is very dark mixture of light and dark everywhere in there it seems. So you can see we're kinda getting like a representation of all the different areas in there. The lighter areas and we've got the darker areas, not as many lighter areas as in the as in the reference picture, but we can put some water on in the second and lighten that up top. Where else he's coming around here. I'm just trying to establish this. Well, this is still wet. Clean off that brush. This is a number to Heinz Jordan Series 400. Brush. In case you're wondering any round brush will do. Stick with horsehair on it if you have it. No, I'm just kidding. But don't worry too much about the brush right now. We'll put in more details in here later. For now, I'm going to take some clean water. And this area that comes around the eye, they're kinda like it's like a round kinda kinda highlights the eye. So I just wanted to see if I can't get some of that out and make that area lighter. So I'm just cleaning off my brush and lifting. You probably just dab in some clean water too. And that will spread the pigment around. And see where else can we do here was putting in some clean water spots in here. Still a few lighter areas. Break it up a bit. So we could have left more of the, um, and we put in a bit too much water in there and we could have left more light spots. But I think it also would take away from, you know, some things look great in a photograph or in real life. Then translated to a loose watercolor painting. They don't sort of like a white fluffy dog. People asked me to paint white fluffy dogs in watercolor. And I just get sugars because he's one of the most difficult things I think there is to paint and they just don't translate well into watercolor. And been my experience anyways, I'm sure someone out there has mastered IP. Okay, so I don't want to mess with that too much. We'll let that dry because anything else that I do like e.g. here, I'm gonna put in some darker over here, but it starts to get Nick. It's not dry enough that it's going to make a difference. Maybe it will. Maybe it is. Okay. I think one of the things I say the most is okay, I'm going to let that dry now and then I never do. I just keep mucking about, keep poking at it. When I'm teaching a class in person, I'm notorious for telling people stop painting, just leave it alone. Geez, when it comes to my own paintings, it's a whole different story. I definitely don't practice what I preach enough, working on it, but whichever. All good. Okay, So we can do the same thing down here with our bit lighter color. We can leave in some areas that we had that were we want to leave in some light areas there and how some dark areas. Putting in. However, there we go. I'm not going to worry too much about the wing details because they are going to put in some darker areas down here and start to highlight those after with that. But for now I'm going to let that be like that. We'll grab some water, fill in a few of those areas so it doesn't look too blotchy. And we put it in some dark spots. Now, down here I've got a dark spot here. We got one, over here, we got one. And then this whole bit down here. And we've got some up here. And we've got some over here. Now we can put in some drier dark paint, some indigo here. Just be quick, clean off the brush, grab some clean water. And we blend that in. Just trying to eliminate any hard lines there. 7. Painting The Eye And The Beak: Welcome back. So our blue is dried. Now we're going to work on our eyes and our beak. For the beak. And we're going to use some. And we'll use Payne's gray because it's got a bit more color to it. And we'll add in a little bit of magenta because there is some at the top there. So over here we're mixing some of this up. I'm using my number two brush, grabbing some of that. Oh sorry, that's neutral tint. But whatever neutral tint, that's what we're going to use neutral tint. And we'll grab a bit of magenta. Just for fun. My paints are starting to dry out. She need to rewet them again. And yeah. Okay. So we'll let some of that diluted down and we'll just do a layer, simple layer with this color. It more magenta, maybe. There we go. Nice light layer there. So just grabbed a bit more water to lighten that up. Even a bit more water over here. There's a little light area there that I'll leave is going to come up and it's gonna go back. Cross will do that dark part later. For now, just a simple even wash on the beak and we'll leave the dark part later. I'm going to just grab a bit of water and lighten this up at the top. Okay. That's that. Now we're going to grab some indigo and it goes a very dark color once you wet it. That's very rich and very dark. So we're going to come over here to our eye and we're basically just going to follow this along. There's a very light area underneath that we will leave in a little bit of one at the top. I'm going to leave these fairly large so you can see what I'm talking about. I'm just going to fill this whole thing in. I'm gonna put a, I'll put a dot of gouache on later just so that it's easier to find one sometimes sometimes when it's dry. And he got all the rest of the details figured out, it's easier to see where where the highlight in the eye should be. That's like that little white flecks area there. On top of this, there's a very fine line. Okay, So this is, you can see it's fairly dark, which is what we want. We can try to close this white line a bit and keep it as narrow as possible. It's easier to fill it in than it is to try and put it in after you've already got really dark paint on it. Now, if we look here, this goes right up like that. And okay. There. Okay, So you should have something similar to that. I'm going to add in a bit more here just so that I can use it to pull up. So I'm kinda piling on the pigment up here. And I want to use it to blend this area in here so it's a bit darker. I might go over the eye again later just to make it even darker. That's some dark areas in their lives. They don't have enough water in here, called dark area there. Depending on how dry your beak is, it's still a bit wet so we'll leave it. But if you're a beak is dry, you could decide to tackle the next part now by going over it, but I'm going to leave mine to dry a bit. Okay. I'm going to clean off my brush. Get rid of it all. A little bit of water there. And now I'm going to use some of this to bring that up around here a bit more. See what we're doing there. We're just basically using water and picking up some of the Indigo to get them more textured area. We missed an area underneath, it's fairly dark as well. Down in here. Are underneath or highlight there's like dark. Let's see how are because it seems fine. Okay, we can move over to the beak. Route, some darker other. I need a bit more water for this. So we'll get that on this so that it spreads evenly. And we come up over top, almost right to the edge there, but we'll leave that and put a bit of orange later. Okay. We have that on. We can grab a bit more, darken it up. Easier to do this while it's still wet. And take some of that off. Blend this you, some of this that we just picked up off of here and do this little shadow area down here. If you've got enough. I think we're we're going to need is we're going to need a bit darker color up at the top here because it's too concerned about making it too light or too dark. I think I made it too late. So I'm just going to add a bit more value into that beak there. That looks better. This area here, this white area is not actually white, but I'm going to leave it for now. Because if I don't want is going to bleed in the wrong direction, which I don't want. Okay. All right. We're going to let that dry and we'll come back and do the feet and then the branch wide and a highlight in the eye. And then we'll wrap it up. I think we might actually do another layer on the chest, but we'll see. 8. Painting The Feet And Adding Details: So we've got our eye has dried here and our beak is dry. Now, let's take a look and see where we're at. There's a few things I think we'll cover in the finishing touches and we'll go over and do some of those. But before we get to that, I think what we'll do is we'll work our way down to the feet. And I would like to see a bit brighter, a bit more in the chest there. I'd like to bring that out a bit more. So I'm going to use a little bit, not a lot. Just going to use a bit brighter of an orange over here to the palette. Mixing some of that raw sienna. I always forget the name of that. It's got like they've got a funny name for it, but basically you can use it's the same color, almost identical, yellow ocher or something like that. Okay, so I'm just basically going to grab some of this pigment here, paint. Same thing and you can see it's a bit brighter. And I'm just gonna put it on in a few areas. Not worrying too much exactly how and where it goes. It'll all work itself out in the wash. This area here and it'll cover that up nicely. Now I don't want those streaks. They are obviously, so I've cleaned off my brush, grab a bit of water, and I'm just going to blend those in a bit more. Just trying to accent that, you know, it kinda comes around this lighter area here a bit. Make it stand out a bit more. And we don't have to worry about it being overly bright because it's, it's on top of two other layers already. Let's drying pretty quick. There we go. So now I'm just basically spreading it around and evening it out a bit. There. We've got that darker area there. So let's grab some of our sepia. But another layer down here that just being aware of where that leg is there. Grab some indigo and mix it in. Darkening this up a bit. Again, it's not a solid line and it's hardly aligned at all. So we're just using some clean water, pushing it down into that shadow. Just to blend that out a bit. The darker run outside. Bring some of this over here. There we go. I think one of the most important things in painting, well, there's a lot of important things, but unimportant thing. A important thing is the keeping, using our values like lights and darks to make things three-dimensional, to give it, like keep it looking real. I think that often gets overlooked when I look at people's paintings. So for down the bottom here I'm going to keep it really simple. Just use some indigo. I'm just going to bring us down here. Let me a little bit darker at the top. That's silly. Shadows work. Clean water. You can use any kind of dark color there if you want for the shadow. Now, I often use a neutral tint and then it's like a neutral color. But again, just use what you have. Okay. So now these feet, so we got our orange color out there. I'm gonna grab a smaller brush, number two, brush here. And the feed mine, I'm on a I'm on. This is an eight by ten sheet of paper which your drawing guide will be set up to be the same. I like using smaller sheets of paper because it's cheaper and it's great for practicing. One of the things that people will do is I'll say they'd get a giant full sheet of paper. It's been like $10 on it. I mean, that's what it is in Canadian. I'm sure that's a lot cheaper in the US and some places. But there's been a lot of money on the paper and they're painting doesn't work out and then they get discouraged and they think they give up. And using your paper like teaching yourself how to paint. You're going to have some paintings that don't work out like it's a given. Okay, so we've got our orange on there. Now we need some clause. We will add some more definition to the feet shortly, but for now we'll just put a little bit of blue on there for sure those are I just want to have them here is we're gonna put we paint the branch in. I always forget these and then they get kinda leftover. So I'm just using some of this as a shadow color. Basically just drawing a simple line underneath and that shows bit of a shadow there. And don't stress too much about the feet. I quite often leave feet right out. Okay. So we can let this dry now before we do that, let's give our eye a little love here. So we're going to use our handy tube of gouache here, which is an opaque white watercolor paint. And I'm going to decide where this bird is looking by putting a little dab of, that's probably too much of this. Alright, about her. I think. There we go. Now our bird house, some vision. I'm sure has vision, but it looks like I'm looking somewhere. What I mean, we can use this if we wanted to bring out some of these feathers up here, e.g. like I made this area in here, I filled in for your reference. If you wanted to do something, you can use it like a fixed area. Let's say you had a feather coming down here. You could flip that over kind of thing. But keep in mind it is bright white. You can get other colors that are, that are in use it as well. But leave your watercolor painting, a watercolor painting. Don't feel bad about using this either because it's anything you can do to make your painting look better. As great. While we've got this little brush and we've got our bright orange. I'm going to put some of that up in here because this is a little dull compared to our guy up there. This part up here that we had to fix. I almost forgot about that. So we'll use the same orange in there. And I'm just going to put it in. Then I'll bleed it in after with some darker blue to make it look more realistic. And gazes down here. I'm just going to blend that in with some clean water. There we go. Whoops, whoops, it easy. There is no orange on this blue part here. That doesn't go there. I think that Blue need some love anyways, I think it's a little dull. So let's grab some of our, some blue. There are more brightness up. Well there we go. That's pretty write that down there. And again, we're going to clean water and blend it in. I think the bird looks good like that. He's a bit more dark up in here. More dark down here. 9. Painting The Branch: So for our branch, in a picture there you can see it's got a whole bunch of moss and stuff on it. I'm not gonna do that. I'm going to grab some burnt umber here. I'm going to keep it really simple. And I'm gonna go underneath at the bottom here. Put on some brownish color like that. Try to avoid leaving any spaces and you can see how quickly I'm putting that on. Now, grab some of that raw sienna color. I'll dab some of that in different places very loosely, not really overworking it too much. I'm going to spread that around, even it out with some water. Now this color does kinda when you, now that you've gotta do it and see how the color matches the the bird, which I don't necessarily want up, picking up some of that claw there. The indigo that we've put on. Okay. So there's our branch, okay, we've got a brown branch, we can add in some brighter yellow, got some cadmium yellow there. Some light, whichever doesn't matter, just to give it a bit a color texture. Now, again, this is a three-dimensional object. So it's going to have shadows. I've gotten my indigo or there are faithful indigo. Some bits there. Just see how loosely I'm putting it on them, not over stressing about it too much. It'll grab some of that sepia. Put it down here. Few spots. We don't want to take away from the bird or king fisher here and his royalty after all. Show him sitting on something. Okay? Now, as we mentioned, the shadows, you're going to have shadows because he's or she is going to be casting some shadows. So put some more sepia up here underneath our feathered friend. In-between. Whoa, I went right on top of the there we go. I went right on top of his foot. Her foot. Maybe we'll let that dry and then we can add in some more detailed bits once it's dry. And at that time we will also do our finishing touches. We're gonna go over our bird here and we'll see where we can improve on certain things. I've noticed a few areas already, e.g. I think the head looks too flat, so we need a bit more shape around here. And I think the I also, there's white line that we've gotten needs to be filled in quite a bit. And maybe a few other things that we'll discover. I'm sure I'm going to let that dry for now. No. Come back. As you can see how quick that was very simple. You know, it's mostly about making it three-dimensional shape, your shadows, which are your values and lights and darks, so to speak, kind of thing there than anything else? I mean, yeah. If you made it purple, it wouldn't be like why is the branch purple? But for the most part, that's a bit bright. There we go. Okay. Now again, I'm going to let it dry. 10. The Finishing Touches: So our branch is all dried and I like how it looks. I'm not going to change anything about that. I am going to move up. As I said, we're gonna look at our eye up here. You look at the reference picture. We can see there's a line around the eye like there is, like some highlight areas, but none of them are bright white like that. And I used to make this mistake quite a bit. And I found that just a very subtle things like this can make all the difference in the world. So what I've done is I've just got some clean water on my brush. And we have a lot of indigo and the eye there. So I'm just very lightly going near it. I want to see it. I want to know it's there. But I don't want a glaring out at me like that because it's not in the picture and that's not how the bird looks, the eyes and things like that are probably the most important part of the painting as far as them being in the right position, the right size, and little things like these highlight areas. So you can see it starting to make a lot more. It's a more dramatic, it's more powerful. Same as this little white area here. It's not actually white. So I'm just going to tone that down a bit. This area in here is a lot darker. Grab some more indigo. Not this area up here that comes up all the way down here. Again, this some clean water. Now I can just use some of that indigo and this dark and this orange area a bit up here. Just by pulling that up. You want that kinda dark and mysterious looking shadowy area there. So any bright white or something like that is going to take away from that considerably. Now let's seen here in our white line on our beak in tone that down a little bit. Now I do want a bit more character up on the top of the head. I'll grab some of my fellow blue. And I'm just going to bring in, actually I might do is try and put in some of these mines there like that. And then just, um, lead them in a bit with water. Good. Just gives a bit more shape, I think to the head. We all need a little more shape in our heads. I'm just looking at the areas that I think are lighter and darker. I'm putting them in there. Some orange and some sepia down here. They're standing a bit more value to the area there. There's a bit of magenta color up here on the beak. That in you can see now those little subtle changes that we did there. They add a lot more like, it's more dramatic looking, more three-dimensional. Same here, the shadow area. So regardless of what you're painting or when you're painting at this stage or at near the end, you're painting. Take a step back and look at it and say, what can I improve on? What doesn't look right? What, what areas need to be tweaked. And then at the same time, learn when enough is enough. I think we're getting pretty close to that. I would like to see some more deaf, something different, something bugging me about this wing here. I just needed to be broken up into two parts instead of one big solid area there. Alright, I'm gonna say all this tone this down a little bit. It's got my clean water went over that IN area a bit more. Highlight was fit, more neutral, sorry, a bit more indigo. Bit darker up here. Dabbing in some because it's still wet. Anything too. I think our highlight might be a bit on the bright side to one of those out by dabbing over it. Some fresh indigo on top of there. There we go. Now I'm birds looking a bit more forward. I like it. A little bit more. Shadow underneath the log. Rid of the leftover paint on my brush Anyways, they're just makes it stand out a bit more. And I'm going to say that our king fisher is complete. I hope you liked it. Please leave me a comment. In whichever medium you're watching this in, and let me know what you think. Thank you very much.