The Road to Manga - Advanced Inking | Olga Rogalski | Skillshare
Drawer
Search

Playback Speed


  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x

The Road to Manga - Advanced Inking

teacher avatar Olga Rogalski, Professional Mangaka and Illustrator

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      About this course

      0:46

    • 2.

      Speedlines

      5:58

    • 3.

      Lightning

      4:19

    • 4.

      Bloodsplatter

      1:06

    • 5.

      Bonus 1

      19:51

    • 6.

      Bonus 2

      14:08

    • 7.

      Bonus 3

      11:07

    • 8.

      Bonus 4

      14:08

    • 9.

      Class Project

      0:20

    • 10.

      Conclusion

      0:25

  • --
  • Beginner level
  • Intermediate level
  • Advanced level
  • All levels

Community Generated

The level is determined by a majority opinion of students who have reviewed this class. The teacher's recommendation is shown until at least 5 student responses are collected.

641

Students

--

Projects

About This Class

Have you ever wished to draw your own manga but have difficulty when it comes to translating your awesome pencil drawing into ink? Or are you starting out and do no feel so sure about how to use ink? Then this course is for you.  

My name is Olga Rogalski from Studio Oruga. I have published manga professionally and have been in love with ink for many many years. In this course I want to teach you my techniques. I will show you how to

  • ink speedlines,
  • lightning and
  • blood splatters.

The course will also include 4 demonstration videos where I will ink panels from beginning to end.

So let´s begin!

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Olga Rogalski

Professional Mangaka and Illustrator

Teacher

It is never too late to start...

That is what I told myself when I first took up drawing seriously at 18 with the big idea of becoming a professional mangaka. Of seeing my books in the bookstores and touching the hearts and minds of readers.

A shy girl from a poor immigrant family in a sleepy provincial village in Bavaria, without any connections or funds. I knew that I would have to learn fast, be bold, be courageous. And I knew that I would make my dream a reality.

And I did.

Not right away but the following 4 years of constant study, self-imposed drawing bootcamps, searching, learning, project d... See full profile

Level: Intermediate

Class Ratings

Expectations Met?
    Exceeded!
  • 0%
  • Yes
  • 0%
  • Somewhat
  • 0%
  • Not really
  • 0%

Why Join Skillshare?

Take award-winning Skillshare Original Classes

Each class has short lessons, hands-on projects

Your membership supports Skillshare teachers

Learn From Anywhere

Take classes on the go with the Skillshare app. Stream or download to watch on the plane, the subway, or wherever you learn best.

Transcripts

1. About this course: Have you ever wished to draw you on Munger? But have difficulty when it comes to translating your awesome pencil drawings into ink? Or are you just starting out? And don't it feel so sure about how to use ink? Then this course is for you. My name is the Aga Ho gasket from Studio Yoga. I have published Munger professionally and I have been in love with think for many, many years. In this course I want to teach you my techniques. I will show you how to think. Speed lines, lightning and blood splatters. The course will also include four demonstration videos, variable ink panels from beginning to end. So let's begin. 2. Speedlines: speed lands are great effect. You can use them to create the name vaccines to show movement, and it's quite easy to do them if you know how for this exercise, we will start out by drawing a box for demonstration purposes. I'm not using a character after I have drawn the box. I'm setting our focal point. That is the point that all speed lands goto birds. Next I draw a circle around the focal point. This is a guide that them using for myself, that means the area around the focal point will be as much as possible. Clear off thes speed lines. Next, I'm using masking tape. This is a tape for painting, but I'm also using it for working with think that way I don't have to worry about going over the line. I also usually tape up the borders off my panels, but you will see it in the demonstration later on. The good thing about the masking tape is that you can reuse it later. Also, it usually comes off without damaging the paper. - So now I'm using are no pickle liner, the strength off three and let the speed lines goat over the focal point after everything has been taped off. I'm using the ruler and the fine liner to draw the speed lines. I start from the middle and go clockwise. That way, even if the ink of the finer has not dried yet, it is not smudged. I usually try to move the fine liner in the last second from the page. That way I get this sharp edge that goes toward the middle off the speed line and to make it easy on my hands so that they don't cramp. I'm moving the paper. I also often do it when drawing manga, and it's OK when sometimes the speak lines go over the line. That way it gives it more impact because not every line has the same length. You can also vary it, the thickness off the lines and how far apart they are from each other. And after I have used the's beat lines, I erase the pencil and remove the tape. I am removing the tape away from the drawing in case that the paper rips, which sometimes it does like in this case. But when everything is can't in, you don't see it. I will be reusing this tape later on 3. Lightning: this is quite a fun effect. You know those flashes that appear when something is revealed or if something has happened , you can do that not only with screen tones but also with ink. Like in this case, I drove the flashes in a PSA guide with a pencil and then used the masking tape that they used in the other video. Then use a brush and ink to create the effect. This is, Ah, watercolor brush, which are my favorites when working with Think so again, like was the speed lines I'm doing it freehand and I'm most of the time drawing clockwise and go in the direction off the focal points. Then I feel in the black areas around it, creating this stark contrast between black and white. You have to be careful here not to smudge ink, so try to keep your hands off the year place, or wait until the ink has dried for things like that. Tried to truce and think that is thick. That way you get thes sharp ages off. This flesh is after that. If you see spots over Snow Inc. We can fill it in, and then you can make parts of the lightning thicker sinner on. After it has dried, you can erase the pencil and then roof the masking tape away from the drawing and pressing with one hand on the drawing and with the other. I'm carefully removing the tape. This is my favorite part and take your time. You don't have to rush it. By the way, the tape can be reused again for a least two or three drawings. Okay, After that, I removed the pencil drawings within the razor. 4. Bloodsplatter: did you know that you can create blood splatters with think? It's quite easy. I usually just apply water, tow the paper and then drop the ink onto the wet paper, which creates this splotches. And then I pulled the ink towards the source off the power, which creates a more stark contrast with the other parts being absorbed into the paper. And then you can use something to create small drops, either a brush or better clip. Some people use plastic cards by prefer to use a clip. 5. Bonus 1: okay when inking. Traditionally, I find it important to use different kinds off nips in order to create a contrast off shapes a contrast off line thickness so that you can differentiate better between different parts of the picture and for the facial features. My favorite is Amara Pen. It is quite fine, and even when the drawing is quite small, you can apply many details. - I'm going to use ah watercolor brush to do the hair, which is why I'm just outlining the rest that I know where everything goes. But for the other parts I'm using, the more open to create shadows and to shade in the black, for example, like this mustache and beard. But you can also use the brush to shade in the black. I really like the watercolor brushes, but that you can create great transitions in this shiny, glossy hair. In this case, again, as in the videos with speed lines and flashes are using masking tape to mask off parts that have to remain white. You can also use masking tape to tape the page to whatever underground you're working on so that it doesn't move as you see here. The drawing will have a lot of speed lines going on, and it just gives your piece off minds not to worry about the text boxes. - So after I have drawn the hair and using again Amara pen to draw the armor, the part that I want to have thicker ago over twice. Also, you can vary it. Line strength a bit with Amara pen when you apply a bit off pressure in it. But it's easier with a G pen, which is why I'm switching to Jeep in. Jeep in has more off a line dynamic, so if you apply a bit more pressure, you get a thicker line. But it can also draw quite thin like, for example, with the muscles. I'm applying more pressure when drawing the round parts, but you can see the difference between the face and the strong lines off the cape again, trying not to draw over the still that ink, which is very good when you try to work quickly Jeep in. It's also great for filling in black like with the armor. And don't worry if you make mistakes. Now I'm using the brush to create shadows on the cape. That way I can create the name it kind off speed lines where the shadows are. - And , as you can see here, I'm drawing over the masking tape, which is why it's so easy to use it. I really loved working with ink. It allows you to create really stark contrasts, but if you want, you can also use a brush bent like, in this case, a new pickle line. Three brush pen. Also working with our real brush. It's more of a favorite with me, but you can see the difference in the line strength and in the line pattern between Amara Pen a watercolor brush off. Fine line a brush. Just use it to create what you want. My favorite is to make the outlines thicker, but then at the details thinner, which is why I love the more open. You can create really super fine details with Amara Pen and Esa said before, Don't worry, if you make mistakes, okay, you can also leave yourself the option toe. Fill in black later. I usually just mark the places with an ex because it takes a bit longer for thick are ink to dry, but you don't forget it. A few market. So after I'm done with the character, I can begin toe draw inthe e effects. In this case, it's like this Louds off dust and debris flying around and, of course, the sword. So now our feeling in the black, in this case with Amara Pen, because it's a small space and unfortunately my video give out. But now I'm using Ah, could Lola pin. It's on electric pen that creates dots so you can create effect without ruining. Your nip thing is when using the dot effect too much, it can shorten the life spin off your nip, but it's great toe great, a pattern that is different from the rest off the drawing. So I'm using it in this case for the Cape to show that it is off a different material, that the rest of the closes and it's so much easier with this pen. It has an electric charts who just have to press the button, and then it creates this pattern. So after I'm done with the drawing, I'm working on the speed lines. I'm drawing them top toe down, topping off course, easier to just rotate the drawing and drove them like that but it would have been more difficult for you to fall written because the pages quite big. It's a three, and I regularly clean the ruler with tissue that parts off the ink from the fine liner doughnuts. Much these guidelines in this case and placing the speed lines quite close to each other, which creates a more powerful effect. Also, when I'm drawing part off the speed lines on the upper part of the drawing, I'm also doing it on the lower part of the drawing because it still follows behind the character. It would have been, of course, more easier to tape off the character, but in this case it's difficult to tape the character because it has so many different shapes. It would have taken too long to tape it off. So I have to draw this beat lines more slowly, by the way, in this case, the speed lines also have a focal point that they go towards, but it's outside off the drawing. At this point, it's a bit slower because you have to be careful not to draw over the character, - but it also can be quite fun. Using the speed lines can make your character stent out even more like this. Explosion and clouds and shadows and dust and debris just looks different than if you create the speed lands with a program, which you, of course can do. It takes a while, but we're almost done. And after I finished the normal speed lines, I'm heading even more speed lines in between at some spaces to make the effect even more stronger. Like if you go over some spaces twice, it creates on Hans speed line effect. And after I'm done with speed lines, I removed the tape carefully so that I do not take away some off the paper with it, which is especially risky when there is a drawing below the tape, but it went well. 6. Bonus 2: okay in this part, I will be combining different materials in order to create these panel and what I'm doing here, especially this one off my most hever things that this thinking black hair using a brush, you can find more about it in my former tutorial about thinking when inking black hair with a brush, I'm using a thick Inc. Which allows me to create this sharp outlines and which does not bleed into the paper so I can create a lot off thes highlights in the hair. I'm working from left to right because I'm right handed so that I do not draw over the places where the ink still wet, which we have to be careful about when using a brush, or also on IP. Because otherwise you can create smudges often times when doing the highlights with black ink, I try to create the highlights in a V or on n or M shape, leaving parts of it white. In this case, I'm using a gelatin to ink, which is really thick, especially if there's not much ink in the bottle. So, for instance, if the ink is almost up, becomes quite thick, actually too thick to be used with a nip, especially if it's a more open. For example, this kind Off Inc at this stage is much too thick for a more open, but I don't throw it away. I keep it for exactly this purpose. Okay? Hair that is behind the strength that are hit by the sunlight, our drone with hardly any highlights. So basically, they're filled in. I tried to concentrate on the highlights that are in the front and in the bag. It's mostly filled in, and I have to really be careful not to drag my hand over the wet ink. And when accidents happen, I just adjust the highlights accordingly, so I don't worry about making mistakes too much. I just used the mistakes to create something better. So don't panic if you make a mistake. It's an opportunity to create a new technique, which is how Ah, lot off my techniques have been developed. - Okay , after the hair has stride, I'm using the fine liner to create the debris flying around. The final honor is a 0.3 no pickle line. Three. It's the finest final, another 10. No, and it's one of my favorite fine line us because, ah, lot off fine line of brands, especially with super super fine fine liners. They have quite sensitive tips. So if you pressed on them too much, they disappear into the final honor break off. And I found that this type of fine line earthy, no pickle and three by de litter it's much more sturdy. It remains fine, but the tip does not break off, and it does not disappear into the fine liner, which is why I love fusing it. In this case, I'm drawing the pattern on the sword, and because there's movements, the pattern are drawn with small speed lines. I could have just filled them in with brush or a nip, but I find using the small speed lines, gives more off movement or flexible using this dot technique instead, off just in outline. No. And here I'm drawing the speed lines freehand because it would have bean a pain to use a ruler in this shape, I would have to adjust it too much, so I'm just doing it. Freehand one advantage or disadvantage depends on how you see it off. Using a fine lander is that they are not exactly a razor proof. That means they can become lighter after you raised them. So in this case it's an advantage, because by raising it, it creates are more fractured. Line compared toothy, solid lines of the character. So it's better for movement. And after I'm done with e speed lines, I'm using a more a pen for the face, for the eyes, for the eyebrows. I have been using this more up in quite a lot, so it's more flexible. I can add a bit more off pressure and prayed thick aligns askew. See, I'm not always following the pencil drawing. If I change my mind, I can just change the line off the drawings while I'm in Cade. - But I really loved this contrast off different lines between the hair and the facial features. And now, with the deep end that I'm using for the thick outlines off the face in the filling off the eyebrows just creates a more dynamic drawing than if you use the same sickness off lines no , After the face follows, the armor were used sick lines and marks the places that will be filled in with black later on. By using an X. So I'm really applying a lot of pressure also for the cape. And you can see the difference between the fine lines off thesis ores that this and movement and with the stick lines off the cape and the armor. And as I said, the old lands are more thick and the details are more since I'm using Amara Pento drawing the details. And as you have seen, I'm using a tissue to clean the ink off the nips. And now I feel in the black with a watercolor brush. Given thes size off, the drawing makes it more easy to use. A watercolor brush compared toa a jeep in for filling in the black again. This is the dilator to So now the ink has dried and I'm removing the masking tape and erase the pencil drawings. As I have mentioned with the fine liner. It's not eraser proof, so the sword becomes even more transparent, like the name it was movement, which is good in this case, 7. Bonus 3: this part off the video again, I'm using ah, watercolor brush toe ing the black hair. I'm creating the highlights a bit bigger because the drawing a smaller but even on a small drawing, you can create quite a bit off the chine in the black hair. - Then I'm using Amara Pin to drove. The facial features more open of the finest name that this available, and I'm using a touch cover pen holder, which I have been using for, I don't know. I think I have gotten it in 2003 or maybe four are all the time, but I have been using it ever since. So then I at the outlines and the details with the Mara pen because the drawing is so small , so it would have bean too much to use G pen. In this case. When drawing the outlines, I'm applying more pressure on withdrawing the details. I'm applying less pressure. - So after having done the outlines of the character, I'm using a 555 nip to draw the blood. I'm using the speed line effect for the blood, but I'm doing it free hand. In this case, 555 is a nip that is a bit difficult to come by. I had about my supply in Japan. I decided to add a bit of the background. So to do the trees with, ah, fine liner. In this case, it's again the 003 near pickle lines Re Lina. To create a contrast between the characters in the background, I'm using the dot, dot dot and shades technique on the trees. You can find out more about techniques like that if you check out my other tutorials on thinking, as you can see instead off placing the dots close together around the characters. I use more off a distance in order to create a contrast between the characters in the background. And the trees that are farther away are just outlined and then lightly shaded in, as well as the sitting the background that are suggested by the small lines and their hitech chur. But they don't have to be detailed because they're so far away, as well as the castle on the hill. Okay, again, I'm using a 555 nip for the sound words and the 003 liner for the details and the castle on the Hill. As in the other video, I'm using the Liner Toe Inc and shade the castle on the hill. And because the learner is not a razor proof, it will be even lighter after the lines are erased, which is good in this case. And I said before, Don't for if you make mistakes. This is the great thing about the traditional thinking. People forgive if the lines are not perfect, the part that will be felt in can be marked by using an X No, I think this case I'm using Ah 555 nip instead of Japan. It's quite similar to deepen, actually, but it's a bit more off a Sergey feel. But as I said, it's more difficult to get hold off. Most shops do not offer them for whatever reason, but they're quite great for drawing. But you could probably order them from Japan, accusing eBay, actually a friend of mine, first about them by mistake, instead off a deep end when she was in Japan and both nips for me, which is how I discovered them for me. But when I went myself there, I bought a lot. So now I'm drawing in the monster using thief I've for five flip. The 55 limp said, is similar to Sergeant Pen, but also to the deep end. It's great for long. Lines also like long hair, but also it can be used for outlines like this, and I'm drawing inthe e shadows and details with Amara Pin. But the 555 plan is great for the outlines, but after you have drawn with a more open for a long time, it becomes flexible and dynamic enough to be used also as a stent in for the 555 It's like the longer you used a nip, the more flexible becomes, but the difficult it becomes to great, really fine old lines, which is why usually change my nips after a couple of pages. But ever said, I have bought a lot the longest I have used a nip. I think it was a Jeep in, if I remember correctly, was for 20 pages. But after that, the tip of the nip start to cross. - Now I'm drawing debris and the clouds off dust with the more open and after that, those some of the ground shadow and texture with a fine liner as mentioned before, fine liners are usually not a razor proof, which is why there will be a difference in line quality between the characters and the big round. 8. Bonus 4: okay. In this panel I'm using Ah 555 nip again to draw the outlines off the sound birds. As you can see, you can apply quiet a lot off pressure so it creates these dynamic outlines, but without going to think like with a jeep in, the outlines are quite uniform. - Then I'm drawing the debris that is flying around with the more open and in the panel above, you can see the difference. This was done with fine liners, so after that part was the raised, the line became quiet, fractured. It's not a solid as the inclines. Most of the ink. It's usually raise a proof, but not all. You have to test it out and check it out for yourself. - I'm using theme are a pen for the motion off the sort. Then I'm using a fine Leonard theme. No pickle line three with the strength 0.3 for the castle on the hill. As mentioned before the final liner is not a razor proof, so it will become lighter after I have erased the drawing, the castle and everything around. It doesn't have to be exact because it's just a stage for the action in the front. Also, I have used the shading with the direction off the movement in the front so that it supports it. - You can also think the blood Samos, a breathy speed lines that it follows the direction off the slash. I have to imagine that thief focal point off the slash displaced around the middle off the character. I mean the girl, which is why the blood splashes around it except for the lower part of the body. But I have never killed anybody, Which is why I don't know when the blood flow may be asked. Dexter. No, I'm doing the trees in the background with a fine liner there behind the characters, but they are in front of the hill with the costal, so I'm giving them more details in the castle. No, I'm using the 555 nip in order to shade in the monster in the front, and I'm using quite thick lines and shadings in order to show that the monsters indeed in the front that it's big and rough. I really wonder why people don't import this 555 nips really great for drawing. It's actually made for drawing. I'm using the nipped by the company nickel. But there are other names that are also created by the company. Touchy cover quite a number of companies that produce nips like Tell Attar like nickel lack that you cover. Some say that the nips produce spect that you cover off our higher quality. But I don't know. I have used the nips by Niko. I have used the nips bite that you cover. I have used the names but del Attar actually my deep in and my school pen and sad Japan are by Tachikawa and Mara Pen and this number 555 are by Niko. But I also have used the G pen by Niko anyway, In the end, it's whatever works for you. After I have shaded the character in the front, I'm using about a color brush in order to ink the hair off the girl in the bag. Since she's far away, the highlights are not as detailed. I'm just doing the general shape, and after I have Inc the hair I'm drawing the outlines off the clothing off the girl with Amara pin. Again, I'm using the touchy cav, a pen holder which I have owned for many, many years, at least 15 and I'm not always following the pencil lines, which is okay. You can always change your mind. I'm using also the Mara pen in order to draw the face and to draw the or lines off the body and the details. It's really up to you. But to use for what? It's just the way I prefer to work to use different kinds off nips for different things, but sometimes also decided on the spot what will be better. For example, I'm starting out inking the character with a more open, but then the part that have the most action. For example, the spot where she pushed him away I can do with a fine line are better, especially because after erasing it, the lines will be more light, which is good for the places that have the most movement. - For example, this spot. But she pushes him or escape for his hair and face as well as the cape in the sword. No, I'm also using the final liner to draw the monsters lying on the ground in the background and then, after Earthy Inc has dried, I'm erasing it. And as you can see, there was part off the ink that gots marched. This is on the hand off the monster, but it's okay. I will be using a Wide Inc in order to remove it. I'm using Doctor Peach Martin. What Inc. Which is great for fixing mistakes like that, and I'm done. 9. Class Project: for the class project. I want you to experiment with the creation off speed lines, lightning in blood splatters based on the information shared in this course. Also feel free to share your results with the other students. Good luck. 10. Conclusion: I hope that you have enjoyed this course And I hope that, you know, half as much fun with ink as I do. Please share. You work in the project gallery and let me know how you like this course. And what other topics will be interesting for you so I can cover them in the future. Thank you for taking part in this journey.