Transcripts
1. Texture Paste Techniques for Cards Class Introduction: Hi there, I'm Cheryl. Welcome to texture paste
techniques for cars class. Have you been in
your local store or online and seen
jurors have texture, paste, and thought no, that's for mixed media. I can't use those on my cards. You absolutely can. There's some fun techniques
that you can use using texture paste with other common card making supplies
for your cards. And this class will
show you lots of them. Now these techniques
can absolutely also be used for mixed
media and art journaling, but they're not
exclusive to that. Let me show you what
we're gonna do. In this class. We are going
to be doing cards with seven different techniques
using both texture paste as well as some common
card making supplies. We're gonna be using glitter. We're going to be
using embossing powders and bossing glazes, crackled paste as well as
the regular texture paste. We're also going
to be using some colored sprays and Mike and sprays as well as alcohol inks. And then I'll show
you how to simply paint with texture
paste on your palette. With this class, you'll
also get a supply list that is divided between
each one of the cards, as well as the supplies
used for each one. And those supplies are linked to where you
can source them. So you can spend a lot more time crafting and not spend that
time sourcing your supplies. So let's go make some
cards with texture paste.
2. Poinsettia Christmas Card: All right, so this is the very first card that
we're going to work on. So we've got a
glittered points data that is also colored. Now before we even
start to work on this, there's a few things that
you're going to need to have. Obviously, texture
paste, palette knife. Towards my side, I have
a dish with water. As soon as I'm done my
stent with my stencil, I put it into the water so that I can work
on the technique on my card without this paste
drying on my stencil. Very important. It makes it a lot harder
to get the paint off your central to his started drawing by putting it in the water. It starts to dilute the paint that's on
there and it kinda does have to work for you, so it just makes your
job a little bit easier. I also have a stencil here. Majority of the cards
that were gonna make in this course have
stencils or we're gonna be using stencils in order
to keep your stencil in place without needing
to hold it constantly. I'm going to use
some temporary tape. This is just a
post-it note tape. You could use washi, you could use die cutting tape. You could use painter's tape
from the hardware store. But you want to tape your paper down and
take your pencil down. And I take my stencil down
where it's not touching the paper so that when I
have put my pace down, I can lift my stencil up
this way to remove it. The reason I do that is because
then if for some reason I lose my hold on my stencil
and it falls down. It falls in exactly the
same as plate place. So I'm not gonna read not going to ruin the
front of my cart. Then when I take it off, I'm gonna do this and I'm
gonna pull it off like that. And then I just spoke
the tape off and put it into the wet or if my tray
that's on the side there. I've got my texture paste. This is a new thing
of texture papers. It's quite full. You'll notice as you start
using your texture page, you can get some dr,
Little bits on there. If that happens, you can use a little bit of water
or a little bit of distress refresher to start softening those bits
and then mix them in. It does get to the point where there's some lumps that you
just can't get out of there. I still keep the old pace that has a little
bit of lumps in it. I know you use it
for snow texture and that sort of thing
on different projects. So don't necessarily
throw that away. But just be aware, I labeled mine with sharpie that
you can't really see. But that way, yeah, That stuff is not good for stencils because there's
just too many lumps. What I'm gonna do is
take a generous amount on my palette knife here. If you're more comfortable, you could take this off here, but I'm just going to
work this way so that I know I'm not gonna get texture based on that part of the card. And I'm pushing
down and buy down. I don't mean towards
the bottom of the card, I mean down onto the paper. So that that texture paste is filling the areas
of those stencils. That stencil. I'm gonna get a nice
thick coat here. Before I remove my stencil, I'm gonna take my palette knife and I'm just going
to thin that coat. You want to see the image from your stencil so that you don't
have too thick of a coat. There we go, put
the pastry back in your jar and then close it up so that it doesn't dry what you're doing the rest, this I'll typically put in my tray of water as well so that it doesn't dry out, lift my sense a lot. And I've got a perfect
point. Set it immature. Take this tape off and sometimes
you can reuse the tape. Sometimes you can't. So I've got my image here. And in order to illiterate, we're gonna do this
while it's still wet, that the paste will hold the
glitter scrap piece of paper underneath here,
cover it with litter. Tap the excess off, and then pour my excess
fluid or document container. Then I need to let
this dry completely. It has to be a 100% dry. We're going to apply color
to the front of this. Now I could've colored
the actual paste. I would've had to do it, say on a surface you don't want
to do it inside the jar. Micah powders are
not going to change the consistency of the paste. If you use some
liquid read thinkers, diary or whatever
to to color it, you just need to
be sure you don't add too much because
it will thin the paced out and you don't want to change your consistency. All right, so we're going to let that dry while it's drying. I am going to
completely wash and dry my stencil as well as my palette knife because I'm gonna be needing this
sense will inhibit. My pace is completely dry. I'm going to tape
this down again. Now I'm gonna take my
stencil and I'm going to match it up, paste. And we're going to use that
in order to color or surface. For this particular one, I'm going to put
a piece of tape. There are twos just so I don't
accidentally get some ink onto the white part of the card. So all I'm using is distress ink pads and
blending brushes here. By putting that
stencil over top. I don't need to
be too careful of getting my ink color onto
the rest of the card. It's just going to stay
exactly where the paste is. This is a simple and easy
trick that will ensure you don't accidentally put paste on the lower part of
your cart and lose your image. You're just going to
keep building up. I just have three colors here. You could absolutely use more colors if you want
a little bit more depth, you could use smaller blending
brushes if you want to get a little bit more detail for this particular
image though, I didn't necessarily feel like
I needed a lot of detail. Pretty much everyone
knows what the image is so simple as that take
my tape off here. Now this particular
one, when I lift it up, I don't necessarily need to
worry about it falling down because it's not going
to ruin anything if it falls in the wrong place. I'm going to take that,
I'm going to put that in my tray of water. This will just wipe rate off. I don't need to worry
about it drying, but by putting it in
my tray of water, it is going to be half cleaned
by the time I get to it. There's my image pace. And I'm simply going
to put that onto the front of the card and
just add a sentiment to it. And my card is completely done. We'll see you in the next video.
3. Journey Metallic Card: This is the technique for this next section is called the molten
metal technique. But before we get into it, one thing I forgot
to mention with the litter point
SETA is if you want, you can just use
colored card stock, put your paste on, put the
glider on and leave it as is. You don't necessarily
need to color it. This is a card here, whereas just the white paste that has the glitter
over top of it, just adding some sparkle
to the snowflakes. Very, very simple card. You would want to use a bit of a color so that those
snowflakes show through. But just so you
know, you don't have to necessarily color
it every time. You could just leave
it white as it is. Now let's get to
this technique here. This particular one here
we're not using litter, we're using some
embossing powder. So I've got some gold, I've got silver and
I've got bronze, one that I had for years and
years and years and years. I'm going to take my paper down. I'm gonna take my stencil down and I'm just
reusing some of the partakes from before because if you can
reuse it, why not? The other thing
I'm going to need is a heat gun to
melt that powder. And I'm using a little
sloppy straw in order to be able to control
where my powder is going. I'm going to take
some Paste here. Now. You'll notice here
I've got jagged edges. I didn't want to
have the whole thing covered completely as well as the fact that these
particular stencils I'm using, they're meant for
tags, so they're a little bit narrower
than a card front. But I thought this would add a little bit more
interest to it anyways. That's good. The way, once again,
I'm pushing down, so I'm pushing this
paste into that stencil. And I don't need to worry about any of that falls on my mat. It just washes up super
easy with a wet cloth. I have some baby
wipes that I have in my craft room
for easy washing. Once I've got it through
everywhere I want it, I'm going to remove some
of the excess so that I see the image from the stencil. Close my paste, lift it up just like a
door so that if it falls, it falls in the same spot. Remove my tape, stick it
in my water. All right. Now this piece here, I'm going to take
the tape off because I don't need that anymore. I'm gonna quickly wipe that off. So I've got a clean
surface here to work on. Comes off as easy as that. We go. I'm gonna work on a
scrap piece of paper. I'm going to open
my powders here. It doesn't matter which
one you start with. I'm just taking my
slippy straw and tapping it to release some
of the powder onto my, my, my paste here. Now obviously because I'm
using a mix of powders, I can't really put these
back into their containers. So I have a container here
that I just have mixed metal embossing powder
labeled to the top so that I know it's just a mix of a
bunch of different colors. Could possibly use that in
a future project if there was something with
gears or whatever, I think it would be
kind of cool to have the mixed metal powder on that. A little bit cold up here. So I'm also trying not
to use too much powder because most of the time if
I'm using one color powder, I'm just dumping
the whole thing, tapping tapping the
excess off and I'm putting right back in the
container For this one. I can't do that
because the excess is going to be all mixed powders and I
don't want to waste it. So I'm going to tap my
fingers on the bottom to help those powders move around. I want to make sure that
every part that has paste covered with a powder and I see there's an
empty spot right there. So I'm gonna put the powder
read on top of there. Doesn't matter that it's mixed
there and I'm just going to go now we've got that
piece covered. This here. I can just use my finger, swipe the excess off and
I can take a little brush for the sections that are a
little bit too close that I don't want to accidentally
ruined with my finger. Tap off the excess off. Now, normally, you would wait
for that to dry completely. And then you would melt it
with your embossing gun. Because this one is called
the molten metal technique. We're going to do it
while it is still wet. And what it's going
to end up doing, it's going to puff
some of the paste. And it just creates some
really cool texture in there. So before I do that, I'm going to make sure
these are completely closed because I'm the type that would knock it
out and spill it. Let's melt the powder. You'll see the powder is just a dull finish and as
it dries or as it heats, it'll become glossy and shiny. You see how that powder just
puffed. Texture paste up. Some of those will stay,
raise, some of them won't. But that's what makes it partly
that's what insurance is. Mixed it more interesting to me. All right, So once
it is all melted, now I do need to set
that aside to dry. I don't want to glue
that to the front of the card because I can't press anything down because the paste underneath
there is still wet. I do need to let
that dry completely. Once it's dried, I'm
going to glue it to the front of my card and
then just add a sentiment. So I'm not going to actually
assemble the cards in this class because the assembly for all of them is
very, very simple. I simply glue it to the front and then just
add a little sentiment. I tried to keep the texture
paste technique image, the focal point of
each of the cards. I will have on the supply list what the
stamp sets are that I've used for each one for their sentiments so that you
will have that information. But there we go. It's
not cool and I love how some of them stay puffed
and some of them don't. It just makes it so
much more interesting visually to look at what's the you for
the next technique.
4. Waves Card: All right, This is the next card that
we're going to make. The technique for this one is similar to the last card is, and we're going to put the
paste on and we're gonna put some embossing powder is on. The difference being
this one here. I used metallic
embossing powder. And for this one here I'm using some distress embossing glaze. And the embossing glazes are completely clear but colored. So it looks like glass
or in this case water. I'm also going to be using some frosted crystal for the
white parts on the waves. And frosted crystal doesn't emboss completely
clear and shiny is got a frosty granular texture which I thought was
gonna be perfect for the foam on the waves. So let's get this started, so secure your paper in place, but I want to make sure
that I don't have that in the way of one of my waves. So I'm gonna put my stem
cell where I want it to be. I'm making this so that most
of it is the wave image. Now let's put some
paste in there. I'm quite liberal
with the pace for the first layer because like
I've done before I can, I'm taking all the
excess off and putting it back
in the container. But I want to make
sure to get it into all the nooks and crannies and make sure that I
haven't missed anything. I just see a little section
there that's missed. It's pretty easy to see. If you've missed a section. This all back in and close it. Lift this up, put
it in my water. Take this guy off here
and take the tape off. You could leave the tape off on and use it as a
handle if you wanted, but it's easy enough
to take it right off. It's just like a post-it notes, so it's not very
strong adhesive. Alright, so first thing
I'm going to do is use my frosty Crystal. I'm going to use my square feet, spread the straw that I used. For the last card. You can even if you
wanted like a tiny spoon. For this one, I
used a white base. Four, the texture paste. But you could, you say a sky color, a light
gray or something, something that's not
going to compete with the wave colors, but something that
will make that white show a little bit more. Just gonna make
sure that's closer that they don't accidentally get any ethical A's colors in there. I'm going to work
from light to dark. Pretty much. The
light parts read in that crest of the wave where the sun would be
shining through the water. I'm kind of putting the colors in similar spots for each wave. However, I will spread
a little bit of each of the colors through
bottom water part there. I am trying to save some of these dark parts
behind the dark parts, some of these parts behind
the wave to make them darker. Really, no matter how you do
it, it's going to look good. Don't want to put too much of the dark color
in there because I don't want to end it end up
being super, super dark. Fill in a little bit with
some of these later ones. Alright, now let's
same as before. I'm going to tap the
bottom to let the powder hit any of the
texture papers paste that might not already be
covered, and we're good. So once again, I have a
container for my mix. This one I tend to
do watercolor mixes. And one day I will be using them for a bunch of
different water things. I do have another mixed jar
that I have for other colors that because you'd never
be able to get them back into the same
containers again, I'm just going to
close these up. And same as last time. I'm going to use my heat gun to emboss it because for
this particular image, I think it would be
cool if some of it was puffed up and some not. If you chose an image that you didn't want any
of it puffed up. You don't have to. You can wait until
it's completely dried and then do
your embossing. Just like before. You
can see where it's in Boston where it's not
because where it's embossed, it goes clear and shiny
and where it's not, it's Matt and it's textured little bit harder to see the frosted
crystalline boss, but you can, does change. It. Just have to pay attention. There we go, We're done. So just like the molten metal one before I do need
to let this set aside to dry and dry completely before gluing it
to the front of my card. Otherwise, I risk pushing
the wet embossing or what? The wet texture paste underneath around and ruining my image. So definitely wait for
this to completely dry. And then all I did was add
a little sentiment to it. This one I wish I
had one that said make waves because I think that would've been
really appropriate, but the bon voyage works
as well. There we go. Another card done. We'll see you in the next video.
5. Cracked Roses Card: Our next technique is
the cracked roses card, very similar to the last
one that we're gonna be using in blas
embossing glazes with it. But we're going to be using crackled texture
paste. For this one. We're going to put it
through the stencil and put our powders on it, but we need to let it
completely dry and crackle before we do
melting of our powders. If you try to do this while the texture paste is still wet, you are not going to actually have your
crackle crackle powder. It's going to
affect the results. I'm making sure that this part here that has
a flat edge is just a little bit off my card front. Then I'm not going to be putting texture piece
and this piece here. And I'm also not
going to be putting it in this rows here. So if you want, you can use tape and mask off any of the
areas that you don't want. But what I tend to
do and I'm just going to leave that tape
there for right now. I tend to use a
smaller palette knife, so I have a little bit more
control over where it goes. That I have everything in place. I'm gonna take my
texture paste and this tends to be a little bit of a thinner consistency than
the regular texture paste. It's almost like soft butter. Don't want to get
that leaf in there. If you get a tiny little bit in an area you don't want,
it's not a big deal. For instance, I did get some in there when I was
doing this sample. It doesn't ruin the card. Don't worry about
it. If you happen to get it in an area don't want. You can always call
that one a practice one if you really end
up not liking it. And I love the crackled texture with this one because it makes the roses almost look like they're cracked
glass mosaic tiles. Just a really pretty look. Close. The container so it doesn't dry on me while I'm
doing the rest of this. Lift this up. You won't see the
crackle until it's dry. Right now it looks like
regular texture paste. But you'll see once
it's dry that it's not. While it's still wet.
I'm going to add my powders 1 second. Before I do that, I
want to lift this up. Take my excess paste off of
here while it's still wet. Scrap piece of paper to catch that powder underneath there. You can choose as many
colors as you want. I'm trying to keep
it somewhat simple. I'm only using four colors here, pink and purple for
the flowers and then two different green shades for the leaves and the stems. I would've loved if there was a darker pink and the
embossing lasers, but it doesn't exist,
at least not yet. So I'm doing pink and purple. The only other flower
color that I had that I kind of would have
considered is the red, but it's an orangey red and is not really one of
my favorite colors. I like reds, but on
the bluer red side. So I chose the purple instead. I did my stem with
a darker green. And then I'm trying to do the
base of my leaves as well. Again, it's not
going to matter too much if you happen to get, say, some purple or pink
on your leaves or you get some green
on your flowers. Just looks really
pretty when it's done. Sometimes I've even put some little bit of
the wrong color on an area on purpose, just because it
still looks fine. Tape off of their tap this row. If I were to just late
or just pour this, I would end up having streaks of the color if I had a large section that I
missed with the powder, which is why I tap it around first and then take
it off so that, that powder can go anywhere. Well, dance around and look
a little bit more natural Before before to
bring it to the side. Now this has to
be completely dry before I melt the
embossing powder, I must have touched
it or something. There must be a little bit
of dampness here along the this part here, which is why the powder
is sticking to it. But once it's completely dry, you can take a brush and
I can dust that off. Put this to the side so that I don't accidentally touch
it while it's drying. I have my mixed glaze
container because once again, you can't separate the
US and put them back. There we go. And let's close these guys up. I will see you once our image
piece is completely dried. All right. So our image pieces
completely dried. I'm not sure if
you'll be able to see all their little tiny
cracks in there. I haven't melted the powder yet, so now's the time
to melt the powder. I've gotten all the
excess that I wanted to get off of there. And now I can melt the powder. Going away because of the texture piece was
completely dried. It didn't pop up,
it didn't affect the texture paste in
any way, shape or form. It's simply melted the powder. And what I love about using these glazes with the crackle. It like I said, it looks
like cracked glass, but they seem to to me makes it enhances the crackles and I love it almost has a
little bit of a glittery, shimmery look just because those little crackles
hit the light. Just a fun technique to
do very simple card, put it onto the card
base at a sentiment. This would be perfect for a wedding card if it was a
wedding theme or Mother's Day or just a feminine
birthday card or thinking of you or
whatever. There you go. The cracked roses card will
see you in the next video.
6. Special Day Flowers Card: All right, So we've done
texture pace with the liver, we've done it with
different embossing powders and also with using
crackle paste. But it doesn't just need to be used with things
laid on top of it. So for this one here,
we're going to be using some colored
sprays with it. This is what the card
ends up looking like. I've got two colored sprays in blues because I kinda thought
it looked like a sky. And then I've got
some Micah sprays in brushed Peter and
tarnished brass. Again, all these
supplies will be on your supply list, but
let's get started. First step is taping
my paper down. That tape has been used so many times it's not sticking anymore. Let's get a new piece. Let's put my stencil
where I want it to go. Again, any of those flat edges I'm trying to put rate over the edge of the card so that
I don't see them on my card. And then any of these images
here that have a flat edge, I'm going to completely
ignore and not put paste in them because I don't want there to be images that have
flat edges on there. Not the look I'm going for. You could use a stencil
that was wider and do an entire front card front
with the same technique. I just thought this looked a
little bit more interesting. I'm gonna get my paste. I'm using the
regular paste again. I'm just working
away from any of the images that I don't want. I've already realized I've
got so paste in there, so that's gonna be part of it. But what I can do is once
I've got my image off, is I can rub some of that off. You may still get a
little bit of effect with the sprays. But that's okay. You could if it really bothered
you lift the sentiment up so that it hit it a little bit. But most of the time
those little things are things that you notice and other people don't
really notice though. They're we'd go
close the pay stub. Bear. We are that needs to dry completely before
we start using our sprays. I'm going to completely
wipe that up. And I happen to already have one that I've
already pasted. So one thing I
forgot to mention, I'm using mixed media heavy stock because I'm going to
be springing on top of this. I want to have a paper that
can handle the moisture as well as not bubble and
buccal like it will. When I spray everything
on it is going to curve. The spray is gonna go
to the side which is what ends up here. But that's totally fine. But what's going to happen is it will end up drawing flatter. So I'm gonna take
all of my lids off. I'm working on my
regular surface that I've been working on
through the whole class. But you want to make sure that you have a surface
that you can spray on. These are just defaced So they will wash off your surface. So no need to worry about that. I'm just adding
different sprays. They're all going
to mix together. Then to help it
flow a little bit, we can spray some water. I typically like to lay this onto a piece of paper
towel so that any excess on the sides can just get lifted by that paper towel. The other thing I tend
to do and I tend to do it with a damp paper towel. I usually wait for it to
dry a little bit more, but I'll take a paper
towel and I will just lift just from the raised
texture paste not from the card back. And what I'm trying to
do is to get it to be a little bit on
the lighter side. Most of the colored spray will be going to the
card stock anyways, because that's lower
than the texture paste. The texture paste is arisen. But I just want to
remove just some of the excess while it's drying. Now, when I originally was
had this card in my head, I thought I was going to
add a dicot in front of it. I also took my tarnished
brass spray and sprayed a scrap piece
of paper so that I would have a piece of paper to die cut that was going to match. But I ended up just
liking this as is, and leaving it alone. And then I ended up
using that card that I sprayed Is a mat against
my silhouette there. I'm going to leave
this to completely dry and I will be
back to show you how it turned out.
My piece was dry. I ended up having to drive
my daughter to work, so I wasn't able to sit and
make sure to get more of this spray off of the paste in order to make
it lighter like that? To do it again, I would
make sure that I was here for the whole time and to
be able to take it off. I've got love it
like this as well. But I do really
like how this one, because I kept taking the
damped spray off the surface. I love how the flowers
appear wider than that one. The other thing that I love
is the mica sprays here. You don't necessarily
have to use them, but they add a bit
of sparkle to it. And I love how they tended to pool right around all
of the embossing. So it was almost like
it highlights it. You get some a little bit in
the bigger areas as well. But it really tended to
get stuck and pool in those little tiny areas right
around the texture pace, which is fun to
see and neat when you put it in the light. Simple, put it onto
the back of your card, add a little sentiment,
and away you go. Another card with texture based will see you
in the next video.
7. Alcohol Ink Floral Card: Now we're going to
do this one here. This one, we are
using alcohol inks and you PO, as our surface. And then I ended up putting
some dye cuts in front of it. Now, this one of the alcoholics we're gonna
be using as the rows alloy, which is like a
leafing metallic. I didn't have any
rose gold card stock. So an easy way to
make that is take a scrap of my UFO and add, I added my peachy color
as well as that rose LA, just to create some card stock in order to be able
to have a piece there that matched to dicot with. So I'm gonna take my paste here, I'm going to tape my UFO down. You can attempt to do this,
but glossy card stock, which is another
surface that people use regularly with alcohol inks. The only issue was the glossy card stock
is UPA was non porous. Glossy card stock is
porous but it's clay cota, so it has a shiny finish to it. But the alcohol ink, while you can use both
surfaces with alcohol ink, it absorbs differently on
the glossy card stock. So you would end up having
just a little bit of a different look in this. But it could look
really, really cool too. I like using my UFO because it tends to be a little
bit more forgiving. If I'm not super happy with
how something it looks, if it's too dark or whatever, I can add a little
bit more blending solution like enlightenment. I can rehydrate it, move it. Whereas card stock, the glossy
card stock sometimes once you've once you put a piece
or alcohol ink in place, you're stuck with it. You can't really start
moving it around. You can lighten it a little bit, but you can't start moving it. So I'm gonna put this
in my dish of water here so that it stays wet. This needs to completely dry before we go onto the next step. I happen to have one here
that is already dry. Let's clear our
surface off first. Now the math that I'm using, it's actually a map for baking. I ended up getting them
in a three pack of Costco and I just use one for crafts because it's perfect surface, nice and light, but nice
and easy to wipe off. But one thing to consider is
if you're using a lighter, match, the alcohol
inks will stain it. So I typically use my glass, not here and there's a white
mat that goes with this. The alcohol inks will
stain it so you want to be aware of whatever
surface you're using. If it's a lighter one
and you don't want it seemed maybe don't
use that surface. But for cleaning this
up once I'm done, any alcohol length that has
gone on the surface here, I can use some isopropyl
alcohol and just wipe it up. So it's very forgiving that way and it starts so
you don't see any staining. The alloys need to be mixed up before they're used so you
can hear the ball in there. If you can't hear the ball
and that means it's stuck in the pigment or the mike is or whatever it
is that makes the metallic. So you need to make sure to shake it until you
can hear that. Also needs to be done
with blending solution. I'll regularly use
my alcohol links with isopropyl alcohol, but the alloys need the blending solution in
order to work properly. They don't react
properly without it. So first thing I'm
gonna do is put some blending solution down. The other thing with the
alloys to keep in mind is less is more. It's much easier to add more on if you don't
think you have enough. If you have too much, the
only way to get rid of it really is to kind of
push it off the surface. I'm getting a little bit
of each of my colors down. I'm just going to
use my blower tool. Just going to get some
around first and then I will add my alloy. I want to make sure that I get a little bit in here as well. And I can see where
I've mixed or mixed missed putting some
blending solution down. I'm putting tiny dot drops
of the alloy and then I'm going to add an alcohol
ink on top of it. I find that that helps it to
move around a little bit. When I chose colors for this, I kind of tried to choose a sky, a greenery, and a flower. But they go all over the place. They don't just
stay in one place. So I wouldn't worry
too much about making sure that you have a sky color. You just want to
make sure you have colors that look
pretty together. You're going to move it around until you
like how it looks. And I actually pretty much
like how it looks right now. I want to make
sure to get rid of that big blank spot there and I wanted to break
up that rose gold there. Another white dot there. You can leave those white spots
there if you'd like them. If you don't like
them, break them up. Go once you have how it looks, just leave it to dry alcohol
inks dry fairly quickly. I want to say in a
matter of minutes, it really depends
on how, really, how liberal you were with
the blending solution. But they dry fairly quickly. Once that's completely dry, the only other thing
that I did was I put that onto my card back. I die cut my flowers and just glue them right onto the surface and then added my sentiment. So another super simple card, but it seemed to
need something else. Just this texture. It just seemed like it
was missing something. I could have just put just
a sentiment on there. So if that's what you like, you absolutely can do that. But I just felt that
some flowers on there would look
really pretty as well. We'll see you in the last video. The last technique.
8. Texture Paste Painted Poinsettia Card: Alright, so this here is our last technique that
we're going to do. And it's the one technique
that we're gonna do in this class that doesn't
require a stencil. What we're actually going
to do is use a stamp. So we're going to stamp the image and then
we're going to use the texture pace to give
some dimension to the image. We are going to lose some
of the detail like I ignored some of those
smaller petals. This works best when you have a larger image because
you need somewhere for that palette knife
to be able to work. First thing I'm gonna do is
I'm going to stamp my image. And I'm stamping it in blue because I want a color
that is dark enough that I can see through it when
I'm using my texture paste. But I also want it light enough that when I go to
paint with acrylic paint, it's going to
completely cover it. So let's put a stamp
over to the side. Then I'm using my
smaller palette knife for this just to have a
little bit more control. And then the other
thing I have here as an inexpensive brush, it's really hard to get into those points at
the point cetera, with the palette knife, I'm going to use
my brush for that. Like I said, this is
going to be painted with acrylic paint
when we're done. So pretty much. It's, the acrylic paint
is pretty opaque, so it's going to be very
forgiving with your lines. What I'm trying to do
is I'm trying to get a bit of a ridge on the
outside of the petal. Then I'm smoothing it
off towards the inside. Whenever I take excess off, I put it right
back into the jar. This is the only one, only one of the
techniques where I'm using or I'm having
the jar open for a period of time to get a bit of a dollar
in there so that I had something people to
pull out with my brush. It doesn't need to
go all the way out, but I do want to have
a little bit of, a little bit of pace towards
the end of that petal there. This works more for images that have a bigger open surface. This wouldn't work for
something that's really tiny. And all the techniques that
we're doing in this class, I do them on cards
because I tend to work on cards more often simply because it's a smaller
surface, a smaller area. But you have a completed
project within a fairly short period of time. But you could
absolutely use these in mixed media projects. You could use them in art
journals, that sort of thing. This particular one I think, would be really
cool on a canvas. Adding some extra texture to
whatever image you're using. And then you could do it in
a larger format as well. Seem to be picking that up
instead of putting it down. So I'm just going to
take my palette knife and go back over there. I work from the
outside and I'm doing all the bigger outside
petals and then I'll do a few of the bigger inside ones. Then I leave the smaller ones. Because when it's painted, you see so much
texture that that adds some detail to it anyways, I don't find you lose anything by losing
some small petals. This is one of those ones where it takes a little bit to kind of get used to how to position the palette knife to get a ridge
where you want it. Like I said, I tend to
try to get ridges towards the outside of the petals almost has been for the petals
were curling a little bit. But I don't get too caught up with being perfect
with the details. Because my paint will be that will help it be a little
bit more forgiving for me. This is another one where you
definitely need some newer, fresher, tough getting
fresher paste. You don't want to have
faced with lumps in it. Because otherwise
you're not going to get a smoother ridge on your petals. They're almost like icing a cake. Except you're creating flowers. I'm just gonna leave
it as is right now. When it comes to the center,
I just take a little bit on my palette knife, and I just give it a little
bit of texture in the center, we're going to use some color. Is it tarnished,
brass, metallic. So that's going to highlight
the center anyways. But I don't worry about getting all those little tiny bumps
or whatever in there. I just put some
texture in there. This has to completely dry
before you can paint it. You can't paint wet paste. So through the
9. TPTC8b Texture Paste Painted Poinsettia Card: Magic of prepping
something ahead of time. I've got one already done here. I'm going to put my brush
in the water as well. Quickly shake my paints up. First thing I'm gonna do
is paint the background. Let me get a bigger paintbrush because I want this one
for doing the image, but I want a bigger one
for the background there. I'm just using antique linen. And then I'm going to use
some of the tarnished brass just to get some darker areas. I tried to do as few
colors as possible. Not to make it too complicated
because I wanted more of the focus to be on the point set and
not on the background. You could use extra
colors if you wanted to, or you could use a different
color for your background. You could even go
after this and do a little bit of texture
stamping on there too. I think that would be
really cool. For this demo. I'm only going to do one coat. You could do more than one
coat of paint if you want. You can tell I'm not
too worried about only going one direction. I do want to make sure that all my white if my card
stock is covered. Once I've got it
covered, I'm gonna take a little bit the
tarnished brass. This is an older bottle so
it doesn't have the flip top on it. I'm going to pour. That was pretty good. If
you're saying go to pour some out and hopefully
you don't get too much. Too much on my brush. I didn't want that much. I do want to try to
get some darker areas around the outside. That a little bit of dimension. I'm just using my
hand to hold it in place so that the card stock is not moving around on me. Get some of that
metallic off of there, a little bit more
of a lighter color. Lighter color. Blend it around a
little bit so it's not so distinct the differences between the dark and the light. I mean, I do like seeing certain areas with late in
certain areas with dark. But what it was before, it was just a little bit too distinct between the
darks and the lights. Once this is dry, you could
even go back in and again, give it a second coat. I haven't worried too much
about getting a little bit on the flower because the blue
is going to cover that up. Just a touch of
the dark in here. And then I'll start
working on the flower. Here we go. I kinda
like that background. It looks kind of like an
stucco background there. Now I'm gonna do the 0.7. Now I'm gonna start
with the light blue and then I'll add the shadows
with a dark blue. I like this small round
brush just because it gets right into the texture
or the texture paste. I don't end up having
any white when I'm done. I can get any to any knocking
cranny that I need to. Once I have the
whole petal covered, I'm taking some of the blue off of there and I'm just going to the darker blue where it goes behind one
of the other petals. Feather it up. If by chance you lose too
much of the dark blue, just go back in
and add some more. If you don't add enough or if you add too much and you want
some of the light again, just rub your brush off and then add some
more of the light. Paint is really wet right now, so it's very easy to
blend it together. Once again, just doing
one petal at a time. The end of your tip of your
pedal that you can see through your cream and
brass paint there. You can just use the tip
of your brush to paint it in a fun technique just to add a little bit of extra dimension
to your cards. Something a little
bit different, different way to
use your stamps, different way to
use texture paste. But once again, it
would be really cool in a mixed media project. You just want to make sure
that you're using areas that bigger, that will allow you to fit in
there with the putty knife. With the palette knife. You're just gonna
keep going like this with all of the petals. You get to the center
and once you've got your center one done, or sorry, once you've got all
your petals done, you're just going to use a
little bit of the brass. Definitely want to clean up off your brush first because I can see a little bit of blue in there and just use that to highlight the center
of your flower. Once that is done
completely dry, you just add it to the
front of your card. You could add a sentiment
there if you want to. But you could always just put a sentiment in the inside
of your card or whatever. I went once this was done, I went and just added a little bit of almost looks
like plaid or whatever, but just a little bit with
my flat brush or whatever, just to add a little bit
of extra dimension to it. But I actually like the way this background looks
a little bit better. So your choice whether
you like that or not, whether you want to
add that or not. But there you go. That's how you paint
with texture paste.
10. Thank You: Thank you so much
for joining me for the texture paste
techniques for cards class. I hope you enjoyed learning
these techniques and have fun adding them to
your future projects. Don't forget the supply
list is linked with the introduction video
supply list lists all of the supplies
that we're using, as well as linking them to
where you can find them. You can spend so much more time crafting and not
looking for supplies. Hope to see you soon
in the next class.
Artsy. Island Girl, Teacher
