Transcripts
1. Create Shaker Cards with Stamps Class: Hello and welcome to creating
shaker cards with stance. In past classes. If you've taken
any of my classes, you've heard me say that I love interactive and
three-dimensional cards, and this one is no different. Creating shaker cards
is a fun way to add an interactive element to your cards without really a
whole lot of extra effort. But it is fun to do and fun to incorporate and they're also
really fun to play with. Let's go take a
look at what we're going to be covering
in this class. These are the three shaker cards we're going to be
creating in this class. And like I just said, they're
super fun to play with. And there are a
great way to just add a little bit of
extra dimension, a little bit of extra
interest to your cards. Now, this class focuses on using stamped images for
creating shaker cards, but I'm going to
color each one of them in different ways. The first one we're going to do a little bit
of watercolor. And now that's not to say
that you couldn't choose to color your images
in a different way. I just wanted to do them
all a little bit different. The second card is has color
layer stamps that are used. And I also incorporated little
shell cards because it's an or shells in it because
it is a beach card. And show you how to do that. And then the third card, we're going to take an element from the stamped image and we're going to create a shaker
element with that. So these cards are
super fun to play with, and they're also fun to make. This class comes with a
downloadable PDFs that apply list that we'll
have pictures of each one of the sample
cards as well as listing all the all the products that were used to
create the card. So you can order those products and have them delivered to
your door if you choose. Otherwise, they're
a great way to learn how to use your stamps in a different way and how to think about them in a little
bit of a different way. Let's go create
some Shaker cards.
2. Winter Shaker Card: Stamp Image, Watercolour Sky & Snow: Alright, so this is
the card that we're going to create right now. Lovely shaker bits in there. So the very first step is to stamp and watercolor or image. So I'm using this set here. It's got a bunch of different
scenic images in it. And I'm gonna do this
part first and then stamp the snowman just to give
this a few seconds to dry. Because I do want to stamp and Emboss some snowflakes with
white embossing powder. And I just want to make
sure that my stays on ink has dried. Now. Stays on ink doesn't take
very long to dry at all. It dries really,
really quite quickly. But I'm using it for this because with watercolor
you want to use a permanent ink so that when we're adding
water with the watercolor, we don't have anything
that is running. And I will clean these
stamps when I'm all done. But for right now we're
just putting them away. I don't feel any need to use a stamp position or
anything for this just because I'm just stamping them. There's no need to re stamp
them or anything afterwards. I'm just using an
acrylic block with it. And the thing was stays on cleaner because it's
a permanent ink. You need to use a permanent
ink cleanest cleaner. So there is stays on
cleaner that will work. There's something
what is it called? Ultra clear ultimate
stamp cleaner, just something that
cleans permanent ink. If you have stamped cleaner that cleans just diabase sake, it won't work for
permanent inks. So just be prepared for that. Alright, there we go. So those guys are all
stamped and ready. Now let's put our snow on here. Now I want to do the snow on now because I want the
watercolor to resist it. But if by chance you
forget or whatnot, you can do it afterwards. There's really not,
it's not gonna make a difference in the look of it. I just like seeing that it
resist it when I'm doing it. So you'll want to use a piece
of scrap paper underneath your piece to catch the
excess embossing powder. And I'm using versa mark ink. It is a sticky ink that holds onto the
powder while we melt. It. Should've done with
stamped all of the snowflakes that once
I'm boss them all at once, I'll do that for the
next, but I have to do film boss this part here. So unboxing, it probably
wasn't very visible on camera. You're just waiting for that powder to melt and you
can actually see it melting. And an embossing gun
just emits heat. It doesn't actually blow air. You don't want to use anything
that blows air because that's just going to
dry up your income below the powder off. You want something that's
just going to emit heat and melt the
powder where it is. There we go. Sit on it so we don't accidentally tip it over anything and
not the rest of the powder. You may have your paper start to curl a little bit with the
heat from the embossing tool. If you've also heat it
from underneath there, that will help flatten
it out a little bit. It often doesn't go
completely flat, but once you glue it
down to the card, it won't be noticeable at all. But you see how that kind of started flattening
it out a little bit. Alright, I'm just going to
move this just to the side. I've got some space
for my watercolors. So I like to watercolor with just distress
watercolor we anchors. So I just have this
little palette here. I put a little drop
of each one in there. And it's one of my
favorite ways of water coloring just because then I have a product
that does double duty. So these are meant for
rethinking the ink pads. But if we use them for watercolor and then
they've got more than one job. First color I'm
using is stormy sky. It's just a nice blue gray. And I really like using it
for especially wintery skies. And you notice I put my
picture upside down. That's because I
want the sky color to be darkest behind the
trees and the cabin. And because there's
the most amount of ink when I first put my brush down. I'm gonna get that by
turning it upside down. I could have it this way and
then B, turning my wrist. It's just easier
to turn the piece upside down and work this way. This brush that I'm using is
it has water in the handle. So as I need some extra water, I can just squeeze it and
get some extra water out. The other nice thing is when I want to move
to another color, I just squeeze it
on my paper towel. Rub my brush a little bit, and I my brush is clean and
ready for the next color. I'm going to do it
just a touch of pumice stone rate at
the top of the snow, just giving it a little
bit of a shadow. I'm not trying to
make dirty snow. I just want a little
bit of a shadow underneath the trees. Even though snow is white. It does have shadows. And pumice stone is really the lightest grayish
color that we have. Alright, that is good for 1 s. Before I go to my
next palette and I'm probably coming back
to this one anyways. I want to get some hickory smoked and just do a
little just a touch of I'm just dotting
it into the sky. And best to do this
one. This guy is slightly damp because
then it's going to start bleeding out into the color that's already there and the dampness that's already there. There we go. Now the thing with these
distress three anchors is they never dry
in this palette. So you have to store
them horizontally. So just be prepared if this
is something that you choose, that you cannot tip them to store them because
they will just run, they never ever dry in here. But you don't necessarily
have to watercolor, would it these just
for this project, you can use anything,
you can use watercolor, crayons, pencils, whatever. My pumice stone wasn't dry it. So I've got a little bit
of bleeding into my snow. I'm all I'm doing is picking up the color and then just taking up the excess off on
my paper towel here. I'm now going to let
that completely dry. If I feel like I need to, I'll probably go
back over it once it's a little bit dry
with some pumice stone.
3. Winter Shaker Card: Watercolour Trees & Snowman: Now I'm going to use
some bundled stage. It's just a nice light
green color and I'm gonna do the tops of my trees
with bundled stage. And then the bottom my trees are gonna be more peeled paint, but I am gonna kinda
have a section where I blend the two a little bit
because they go well together, but it would look odd to
have two different colors on a tree without having them
blend it in to each other. I'm not trying to do solid green here because there is some snow
on these trees, so I want to leave
some spots to do that. Alright, Now a touch
of pure paint. Start from the bottom. Not really a rhyme or reason. I'm just kinda being
sporadic with my brush. Like I said, I didn't
want to have a section there where I blend the
two colors together. Just to make it a
nicer transition between the two colors. There we go. So I'm just going to put the chimney a
little bit of red there. Then I want to put a
little bit of yellow in the windows of the Calvin. Give that a little bit of light. Now I'm going to
set that aside to dry for a few minutes while I work on the snowman and he's actually
going to be cut out. He's gonna go onto the front
of the card and be cut out. So I don't really need
to worry too much about being pristine
in the lines. I mean, I still do, but if you go outside the
lines a little bit, it's not too too bad with this guy just because
he's going to be cut out. Some scattered straw
to do the broom. And then I like to carve pumpkin for his
eye, or who knows? Little bit of gathering twigs
for the broomstick there. Then that pumice stone again, just to do a little bit of
shading and The Snowman, I really should have done it first before doing that read, but I'm just going
to avoid that red. Once again, it
doesn't need a lot, is just to give it a
little bit of shadow, just to make it look a
little bit more real. Alright, now
everything is colored, but I do want to
add one more thing. I've got some
perfect pearls here. Now, perfect pearls
or a mica powder, but they have a
binding agent in them. So if you mix them with water, the binding agent is
activated with water. So if you mix them with water, you can create your
own shimmer paint. So I'm going to add some
shimmer to the snowy areas. I'm gonna do it
just where I have the pumice stone there
under the trees. I'm not going to
bother doing all of the snow down here just because a lot of those shaker bits are going
to be in front of that, so you're really not going
to see it a whole lot. I do want to just kinda count
some with a snowy parts of the trees are just to get a tiny little
bit of shimmer in here. And this isn't a detail that's
gonna be super noticeable. Because with a shaker
cards you've got all the bits and stuff
like that in there. But it just adds a really pretty shimmer
to the background. You could do this were a
regular card and not happy to shake her card but have
that shimmer on there. Another way to do that would
be to say put some stickers, which is the glitter glue. But for this one, I decided
to do the perfect pearls. Alright, I think I have that
in all of the areas I want. And if you forget
where you've painted, you can just tilt it in the light and it makes
it a lot easier to see. I'm going to do the snowman with the shimmer, with the pearls. Once again, I'm going
close to the red, but I'm not touching it because they don't
want that color to melt, but I do want that snowman
to have some shimmer to him on the front of the card. Little bit on the
snow beneath them. Alright, so now I'm going
to let that dry completely. And I will see you when it's all dry and we'll continue
to create the card.
4. Winter Shaker Card: Assembling Card Base & Cutting out Snowman: Alright, our
watercolor pieces are dry and we're ready to
start assembling our cart. So the very first
thing I'm gonna do is glue our image to
our card front. There's still a little
bit of curve to this from the water coloring
and from the embossing. But when I go to put
this on the card front, I am going to use just an
acrylic block to hold it down while it's drying so I can continue
working on other things. So I have a rectangle die
then I'm going to use to do the opening for
the shaker window. Now, if you don't happen to
have a die cutting machine, I'll show you how to create a window and a piece of
card stock with a slide. Blade tremor. In just a moment. I definitely prefer the
die cut just because you get it basically cuts
exactly where you placed it. The only drawback
sometimes from using a slide rule tremor is sometimes even no matter how
careful you try to be, sometimes you get
a little bit of a extended cut or whatnot. So this is what I mean by a slide rule tremor or
slide bleed tremor. It has a blade that you can start and stop wherever
you want it to. Say. For instance, I wanted about the same
distance around is this, which is actually
three-eighths of an inch, which makes it a little
bit more difficult, but we can do it. So I'm going to start my blade at the three-eighths
of an inch mark. And there's a little arrow on the side so I can see
exactly where that is. I'm going to push it down
and then I'm going to go up. This particular piece of card stock is five
and a quarter, so I'm stopping at 3.7 eighths. Obviously, if you're not
doing eighths of an inch, it's gonna be a
little bit easier. But I'm just trying to create a frame that is
similar in width. This is not going to be the same size because
this piece of card stock is actually a little bit smaller than that one. So once again, I have this at the three-eighths of an inch, starting at the three-eighths
of an inch mark. And I'm trying not to get my
head in front of the camera. So that might be I'm a little
bit out, but that's okay. I'm going to stop
being three-eighths of an inch from the edge. So we're doing this
on all four edges. But you definitely have
to have a tremor that has a blade that you can raise
and lower like this? I GOT and tremor, which is one of my favorites, will not work simply because you can only cut from one end
of the paper to the other. You can't start and stop in
different areas. There we go. Now I can already
see I haven't gotten gone far enough on that one, so I'm gonna go back. So this is the only
drawback with a, I'm with doing it this way is sometimes you might accidentally
cut a little bit short. Clearly I measured
that side wrong. Sometimes that
happens with talking and measuring that
side's wrong as well. I'm thinking I must
have put those at the quarter-inch marks and these are the three-eighths
of an inch work, but that's how you create a rectangle frame using
a tremor like this. Obviously, if you're
doing it on your own and not talking through it, a little bit better
concentration. Alright? Now the other thing
that I want to do is I want to cut my snowman out. I'm leaving just
a little tiny bit of a white halo around him. He's kind of a sketchy as
in sketched drawn snowman. So he doesn't have really
precise lines and some areas. So to accommodate for that, I'm just giving them a
little bit of a halo. You could if you wanted to
cut right up to the edge. And obviously, it doesn't have to be this stamp
set to create this card. It could be whatever you
wanted and you could even take this snowman and put them inside the shape for
card if you want it. I just thought he
looked kinda cute, sitting on the outside, kinda guarding the scene. And then obviously
watercolor this image. You can color it
however you want it. You can use Tombow marker,
she could use Copic markers. You would change your inks. You're stamping inks to whatever coloring system you chose because you would
not be able to use. This stays on ink
with Copic markers. They are not friends that
do not work well together. I just liked the look of watercolor with this
particular stamp set. And I think some
people just don't realize or don't think to watercolor when
doing shaker cards. So I chose to do it
just for that reason. But obviously you can choose whatever coloring
method you would like. These little shadows, sketchy
things on the bottom. I'm just kinda cutting around them as if it's just kinda like a piece of ice or snow
sitting right there. Alright, so this
should be dry enough to continue working with. So I wanted to take my frame
and on the backside of my frame I'm going to put
some double-sided tape. First thing we need to do is to put in the acetate window. I have a piece of acetate
here that's already cut. So you can buy acetate in Sheets to do with this
or to do this with, or you can even reuse packaging if it's not
too scratched up. Sometimes when you get packaging It's pretty
scratched up and it would affect the
look of the window. But it's a great way
to reuse things. You just want to make
sure that it is acetate. It's got some little
bit of stiffness to it. You don't want packaging
that is super sorry, I just have to make sure
to get in the right place. You don't want to
choose packaging that's really, really flimsy. You want to have a
nice window to this. There we go. Swift
better window there. So the next step is I've
got some foam strips. I'm going to create a frame around this and
I'm actually doing this just a tiny bit in, I want to say maybe even
like a 16th of an inch. It's not a lot in but I just don't want to be able to see any white around the edges
when the card is done. The other thing you
want to make sure is that you don't have any spaces between your joins
on your foam tape here, you want to make sure that they bought up really, really well. If by chance you notice
afterwards that you do have a bit of a space. What I have done is just taken a little bit of collage
medium and just squirt it in that hole
just to seal it up. If you have any openings there. And you also have like really tiny bits for
your shaker stuff. There's a chance of there's
a chance of that filling, falling out when you're
shaking your card. So by sealing those holes, you lessen that chance. We go and one last. Here. There we go. Alright. Now I want to peel
the backing away from that double side or that
foam tape so that we can stick our front
onto the back. Before we stick the
front to the back, we need to put our filling in. Now, if you feel
more comfortable, you can leave that tape backing on and then puts your filling in and then take the tape off.
5. Winter Shaker Card: Adding Shaker Bits & Attaching Card Front: I'm fairly confident
that there's a cautiously confident statement that I won't get any
on the exposed tape. I have just a bunch
of different fields. I tend to collect
them from, you know, when I'm at dollar
stores, sometimes I just like the jars
that they're in. I like to put a
different mix in there. You don't have to. You can. I know a lot of stores
now, scrapbook stores, carry shake her card, mixes. I went to mind
recently and I just didn't see any that I really, really liked for
what I was creating. And then I've got some
snowflake confetti in here too, and they're stuck on each other. So you want to put basically as much as you want in there. This particular
snowflake confetti has some of this stuff in here, so I'm going to put
a little bit of that in there as well. You don't want necessarily
want to overfill it so that nothing will shake. You want to be able to
have some movement there. And I like when it goes to the bottom and it's just
it's on the bottom. I don't want to be covering
a lot of my scene. So now we can take
our frame carefully, put it onto our scene, makes sure to press around the tape before
you start shaking it and moving things
around. There we go. Sometimes you get
pieces that gets stuck in there and I just
I just leave them. I don't worry about it too much. Now I want to glue
my snowman down. So I'm going to use
some collage medium. I'm going to make
sure not to get it too close to my edges though. I like collage medium because when or if it happens
to squeeze out, it is Matt and it is clear
so you don't see it. But that's when
it's on card stock. If it's on the acetate
because it's mat, you'll, you will see a different
finish from it. So I don't want any of it to squeeze out onto the acetate. I am going to put
this down here to let that sit too dry so that it stays flat because my
acetate isn't porous, so it's not going to
really grab it too easily. But then once we're done, this is what we have here. Such a cute little way to
send a holiday greeting. And really quite easy. There's not a whole
lot of extra work from regular cards, which is
something like fine, especially if you have someone to send it to that has little ones in the
house or whatever. It's just a fun thing to play with and to
amuse yourself with.
6. Beach Shaker Card: Stamping & Embossing Background Scene: Alright, for a second one, we're going to do this
beach shaker card. And I've even got some shells and they're super
appropriate for the beach. So we're going to use
these to stamp sets here, this one for the water and
the writing in the sand. And then this one here for
the clouds and the chair. So we'll do the water first. That to the side. I've already got my paper
sitting in my stamp positioner. And a staggered
position is really, really helpful when you're using these color layers stamps. If you happen to want to do a second stamping and
exactly the same spot, this is the answer for you. So first one here is this guy. I'm gonna do it just a little bit less than
half the way up. This stamp isn't gonna go
all the way to the edges, but we're going to
have our foam tape and our frame around
there anyway. So that's not gonna
make any difference. Let's take it up there
and now I've got my paper in the corner. So if it happens to shift, I can easily move it. Now, especially
when these stamps don't have any income them. They like to stick to the paper. You want to make
sure that wherever you position your paper, if it happens to lift up, it's gonna be very easy to
move back down if you need to. Because sometimes
even just lifting it up, sometimes it moves. Normally, I put more magnets on but with clear stamps
and this position are, these magnets are just
slightly a little bit thick. So sometimes it's hard to
get a nice pressing on your stamp with the
magnets are too thick. Now, I'm not looking
for a clear image here. I'm looking for just
a layer of color. But the ink does tend to
even out as it dries. But if you wanted it
a little bit more, even you can stamp
it a third time. I'm just doing it twice here. Next one is the
next darkest color. So that first color I
used was broken China. This one is a salty ocean. Perfect color for a beach
image. There we go. I'll stamp a second time. There we go. I'm going to
clean these stamps off once I've got all of
my stamping done, do it all at once. Last image here. Now these are pretty
easy to line up just because they have
the horizon line, this straight line there. I just line it up with that. Next color I'm doing
is uncharted Mariner. I love this color. Such a pretty one. There we go. I don't think that needs
a second stamping. Alright, now, I'm going
to put hello in the sand. Now obviously this
sand here right now is light blue because of
the paper that I've used. But I am going to ink it
and turn it turn it Brown. I have something here that keeps getting it, keeps my stamp, the center keeps.
It keeps hitting. So I'm just moving. There. We go. Now you could have easily
used white card stock for the background and then inked
the sky if you wanted to. But I decided I just
wanted to go for a light blue background
behind everything. Now, whenever I make
a mask for my stamps, and this is one that I've
made for this particular one, I just keep it with
my stamp set to be used again and again. This particular mask,
the only way I made it, it's just on a post-it note. And I just stamped
my silhouette, my biggest image here, this one. And then I just cut
along the edges. And that's just to
be able to block this off so that
when I ink my sand, I'm not going to get brown
all over the blue there. Where did my brush go? I know I pulled it up
there it is right there. Now. I'm not worried about it staying pristine
and staying in exactly the same space. So I'm just holding it down. There is a little bit
of adhesive on the back of this post-it note just
because it is a post-it note. But I have used it
quite a bit so. It is wanting to pull up. I'm not too worried
about getting this pristine Lee
colored either. Like I don't need full coverage. I just want to make
sure that it looks more brown and then blue. There we go. Attack
that to the side. Now back in the positioner, going to stamp the clouds. So the first thing
I'm gonna do with the clouds is I'm going to stamp them white. I'm gonna do the base of
thumb white for all of them. And then I'm going to stamp a gray over top for the shadow. I want to have some of it
coming off of the page. I don't want them all
within the center. It just looks a little bit
better if you have some of your image moving off of there. This one, I'm not
going to just because it's going to go
off of my frame, but I don't want it off of my paper just because then
I have to shift it over. Which if you want to
shift it over, you can. But just keep in mind where
are you shifted it to so that if you happen to have
to do a second stamping, you know exactly
where that line is. Just going to clean
this a second. I have a little bit of the
uncharted Marriner on here. And just at the off
chance that I press a little bit hard with my white, I don't want to get blue
on my white pad here. There we go. Now this is a white pigment pad. I'm going to need to heat set it in order to get that to dry, to do the gray over top of it. Perfect. I'm going to clean
these off with my baby wipe just because
they have out now. If you didn't want
to heat set it, you could just let
it sit and dry, but it's just going to
take a little while. I just don't want to wait. So I'm going to speed up
the process by taking out my heat tool and
drying it that way. I'm also going to do
the water because I want to take an embossing
pen and I wanna get some white embossing
on there for the waves. The distress ink has a resin in it and if I don't heat set it, that embossing powder is just going to stick to
the whole thing. I'm going to heat that as well. You'll notice I
was doing it from the top and from the bottom. Paper tends to start to
curl with the heat tool. In order to combat that, I'm just heating it from
the top and the bottom. It doesn't curl a lot,
but just a little bit. And you can see that it's kinda
curled a little bit here. So by doing some from the top
and some from the bottom, that just helps control
how much it's going to curl. All right. Now that light, that
white is fairly light. I'm a little bit
harder to match these. There we go. Thank you. Sure.
That's in the corner. If you wanted your clouds
a little bit darker, you could stamp them a second time to get a darker weight. But I don't want them
to two noticeable Rigo. And I've got this one
way up, but that's okay.
7. Beach Shaker Card: Adding White to the Waves & Beach Chair: It's going to clean
that a moment and then tuck this aside for now. I'm going to heat set that
distress on top of the white. There we go. Alright, now my distress or my embossing pen and a
scrap piece of paper. This one has been well used,
but we can use it again. So the embossing pen lets you control where
you put your embossing. It's just the same ink is
in the verse of Mark pad. But in a pen form. I'm just making little strokes very
similar to what is already on the stamp from the waves. There we go. So that
embossing powder only is sticking to where
I have my embossing pen. Strokes. Here we go. Alright, so I'm going to
set that aside to drive. That is done for the moment
and I don't need it. Now I have a piece of
acetate here now I want to emboss this chair. So you need to use acetate
that is heat resistant. You cannot use regular acetate
because it is going to just melt and warp. So even though this
is heat resistant, it is going to work
a little bit if I keep my heat gun in
one area for too long. So you'll notice when
I go to heat it, that I am going all
over the place. Now before I do this, I want to take my anti-static tool and I'm just going to put
it on both sides. This is just going to help the embossing powder not stick. Now, for stamping this one, I'm just using my
versa mark pad. It is a sticky ink pad that that embossing powder
is going to stick to. And it will stay in
the one place while I use my heat tool to melt it. Now I couldn't use
my stamp position to position or to stamp this. But because I'm just
stamping one image and I'm fairly common and I can stamp one image in
the right spot. I didn't use it. But if you feel
more comfortable, you absolutely can do that. And you see the white
dust here that's just from the anti-static pouch. Once this is melted, we can just rub that
right off. There we go. So as I'm heating this, you'll notice that
I move my heat gun around a lot just to kinda disperse the heat
or just even it out so that it's not just
concentrated in one area. There we go. And as soon as it's done
embossing, stop touching it. So once it's done, I don't heat anymore
because I don't want to risk overheating the plastic. It worked just a
tiny little bit. But once we get this onto our frame for our card,
we won't notice it. Alright, so we've got
all of our pieces stamped and Abbas ready
to put our car together. I'll see you in the next video and
we'll start to do that.
8. Beach Shaker Card: Assembly: Alright, so now we are
ready to assemble our car. So the first thing I'm
going to do is put our stamped background
onto the card base. And for the card base I have
just a quarter fold card, just something very simple. It doesn't need to be anything
elaborate or anything because the focus is definitely
on the front of the card. I'm just going to
put that aside. Put a block on top of it
just to hold it down. Then let's die cut our window. So I'm centering the rectangle
day. I just eyeball it. You can if you want, actually, and I'm seeing that it's a
little bit to the bottom. If you want, you can take
a ruler out and measure. But I usually find that just eyeballing it is good,
it's good enough. It's usually pretty close. And of course, if you didn't
have a die cutting machine, you can just use the tremor. The way I showed you
with the winter card. I reuse the dye tape until it doesn't stick
anymore mind as well. Alright, this,
we're going to put our adhesive on the back of it and attach the acetate piece. Now when I placed my or stamp to my chair
onto the acetate, I was keeping in mind
the frame around there. I didn't want to have part of the image hidden by the frame. And I realized now that I forgot to say that
while I was stamping. Another thing, if you did have a die cutting
machine and you did have say, a chair die cut. You could also use that in there which
could be acute too. So as I'm placing this down, I'm just I'm basically
positioning this chair. Any excess that goes off of my frame can just be cut away. But I'm more interested
in where this is placed. We are that is ready to go. Now. We want to add our foam
strips for the sides. Now because I wanted to put some shelves in the bottom here, I actually need to produce three layers of
these foam strips in order to be able to accommodate the height of those shells. I'm just going to put a
tiny little extra piece. So as I'm putting these
three layers of foam strips, when I do my next layer is I make sure that the seams aren't all in the same place. I make sure to stagger them, kind of like bricks. Just so that the
upper layers will hold any openings in the
lower layers together. And once again, if by
chance as I'm placing this, I get a little bit
too wide of a gap. I'll just squirt a little bit
of distress collage medium in there just to close that up. And I'm not doing it
right to the edge, I'm just doing it just slightly. And I want to say like
maybe a 16th of an inch, just giving myself a
little bit of allowance. I did one before that when I went and did
it right to the edge, he ended up seeing a
little bit of that white on the front
and I didn't like it. So by doing it just
shy of the edge, you're getting the same result. But you're not gonna be able
to, or you're not chanting, being able to see the white
from the front of the card. There we go. Now before
we put our next layer up, I need to take all of
the tape backings off. Then you get to a
point where you can't remember which
ones you've taken off. So I think I've got them all. Alright, next layer. And as I said before,
I'm making sure that this layer is
covering up any joins and not any joins that I have are in different spots than they were on
the first layer. I go. When I ordered these strips, I was hoping they were going this way on the card so that they'd be a
little bit longer, but they are not, they
are going the other way. So they do need to
be joined more often than I would like,
but that's okay. It's not the end of the world. Still does the same job. As you can see with these, you can do all sorts of
different themes for them. You can have really a lot of fun coming up with
different ideas. Little opening in
here to fill in. Then also a tiny one in
there that's actually the width of the well, so we're going to
do that that way. Once again, take
the backing off. If we didn't take
the backing off, the tape went stick near the foam tape wouldn't stick nearly as
well to each other. So we definitely want
to take the time to do this to make sure we've got all of our layers glued
on together securely. Alright, this one here, I'm going to start in
this corner and cover that little join there. And if by chance you get a
little bit that stuck out, you can just snip it right off. There we go. I'm going to come down this way. Same as the first layer. I'm gonna make sure to
cover all the scenes. I'm just going to pause
and be back in a moment. Alright, to our taping is done. Now for this one, before taking that top
released paper off, I'm going to put in my feeling
about some star sequence. I hope they kinda looked a
little bit like starfish, some gold, little
tiny little balls. I have some seashells here. The reason we had to
make sure that we had enough height on
our walls there. And then I actually just
have some playbooks and I thought it'd
be cute in there. Now these seashells,
I actually got them from necklaces from
thrift stores, the Hawaiian necklaces,
the shell necklaces. That's all they are. And took them off of the string. You'd never know that they have holes in the
ENS for necklaces. But they worked
perfectly for this. So then I just picked out all the smaller
ones of the shells. You don't want to take
any of the bigger ones, otherwise you'd have to raise the walls on your shaker card. And better to have the smaller ones because
they are effective anyways, so we don't need anything
bigger than this. Alright, are backing
there is off. I'm just lining up the frame with the bottom
of the card there. Make sure that it is glued all the way down to the phone
before we shake it. That is the voice of
experience talking there. I did one where I shook it first and I had the
contents coming out. There. We have our
completed card. They're so cute, I love it
with the shells in there. And then you can go and write
your message on the inside. If by chance, seeing the foam
on the outside bothers you, you can take some
quarter inch strips at the same card stock
and cover them. But I don't necessarily
mind that at all. There you go.
9. Angel Shaker Card: Stamping & Colouring Angel: Alright, so for our last card, we're going to create
this little cutie. Now, just because we're using stamped images doesn't
mean the entire image. It needs to create the
whole shaker card. We can just use part
of a stamped image. So very first step,
we're going to stamp and color this image. Thanks sure that your stamp
is inked really well. And center it nicely
on your card front. Now, personally, ideally,
I would love to have, say, the shaker image more in
the center of the card, but that's not how
this stamp is. So we are working
with how it is. First thing I'm
gonna do is color the skin and I'm using
Copic markers to color. You can use whatever coloring
form you would like. You could even watercolor
like we did the first card. I wanted to have all three cards colored
in a different way. So I chose to do
kopecks for this one. You can even use
Tombow markers if that's your preference
for coloring. I'm just putting a light coat
of the first color down. Typically I would
wait a little bit after stamping to
let my ink dry. And obviously I did
it because I can see a little bit of streaking. But I'm just going to go with it because it's not too too bad. I'm just doing two colors
for the skin tone. I've got IO and E 11. And I'm just putting
the darker color where I want the shadow so anywhere that the skin is
going behind something, I'm gonna put a shadow there
and I have, I'm looking, I'm pretending that
the light source is coming from above. So anything that's towards the top is going to be lighter. But right there it's going
to be darker because there would be a shadow
underneath the hair. I'm only doing two colors
for most of the shading. For the cloth part,
I did do three because it just needed a
little bit of a deeper red. But you can do more colors, say three or I've
actually even seen people use four colors
for doing shadows. Just to get a deeper
shadow in there. I chose to do three, only two or three to only to make it take less
longer to watch coloring. But if you did do the three, what you would do is any place
that you had the shadow, you would put it put the
darker color in that shadow. Just a little tiny,
a little bit. I'm just gonna do a little bit of this pink on the cheeks. Just give her a little angel, some rosy cheeks
and I'm gonna go back over with a light color. The nice thing I like about
coloring with kopecks is even though that is
totally done in colored, is I can go back
still and I can take my darker color and add a
little bit more shadows if I, if there's some
areas that I want a little bit more
shadow, I can do that. Whereas doing coloring
with markers, you pretty much have to color it quickly and leave it as it is. Because the paper with the
dye markers tends to start peeling and it doesn't do that when we're working
with Copic markers. So that's the main reason
why you'll see me choose Copic markers to color over
choosing a diabase marker. So I'm just making sure
these markers have, if you haven't used them before, they have a brush tip and
they also have a chisel tip. I always use the brush
tip for coloring. It's softer. I find I have more control. It has a little bit
of a pointed tip to it that I really like. These wings are
actually going to have some sticklers over top of them, so they're gonna be
nice and glittery. So I'm not going to spend
a lot of time doing the shadow just because
you're not going to see a lot of that detail. Now we'll do the when
you see me pausing, I'm just making sure that
I'm using the brush tip. For some reason. I always so the brush tip has the gray line and I always in my brain thinks that's
the chisel tip. And I've always done that. It's you think after awhile
I learned but I haven't. So this is the lightest
red that I'm using. Oh, I forgot to color
his knee or her knee. I don't know. We'll go back and do
that in a moment. There we go. So for the cloth, very same
principle as the skin. Anytime it's going to go behind something, it goes darker. Anytime there's a fold, it's darker behind that fooled. But I am trying to keep
the light from the top. So I'm trying to keep
the upper part of that fabric lighter
than the lower part. And for this one,
like I said before, I just felt that it needed a little bit of a darker
red just to give it some more depth. There we go. Now, this is the medium color. I'm going to go back and
blend where the lighter, the medium and the dark meat. Then I go back over with the whole thing with
the lightest color. I've seen some people doing their co-pay coloring
that they just start with a dark color and work their way to the light color and
just do it at one time. I've always been
taught to the light, medium dark and
then medium light. But play around with
both techniques and see which one
works best for you. Because just because
there's a certain way to do something doesn't
necessarily always mean that it works for everyone. So tiny, a little
bit of shadow where that little knee would
go behind the cloth. And really I could
have done that read as if the knee was
stuck in the cloth, but I didn't want to. Then last little
bit is the hair and I grabbed the wrong
end of the marker. I chose to do brown hair. I kinda thought it actually
should more be blonde hair. But in all honesty, the blonde colors that
I've seen for kopecks, they look more
yellow to me and I yellows kinda my
least favorite color. So I didn't really want it
to give it yellow hair. But for the hair, I'm just pretty much doing
a little curl sweeps. The hair isn't the
focus of the cards, so I'm not spending
a lot of time on it, but I do want to make
sure that it's color. We don't want to leave it blank. And I only chose two colors
for the hair if you wanted, you could add a third
Brown and give it a little bit more shadow areas. We also didn't want my
coloring to take up too much time for the
hook on the ornament. I'm just using a gold
gel pen going over that. And same with the little
top part of the ornament. I just liked that touch
of metallic in there. Alright, so our
coloring is done. We'll leave those
there for the moment. So the next step would
be to cut this part out. I am, like I said, going
to put stickers on here, but we're gonna do
that at the very end. Otherwise, there's a chance that I will mess up my sickles.
10. Angel Shaker Card: Stamping & Embossing the Sentiment: But before we do that,
I'm going to stamp and emboss the sentiment
on this piece of red. I'm just going to
use this piece of paper that I was coloring on. Now I didn't have
any bleed through. I always color on a scrap of
paper just at the off chance that some of that ink bleeds through better to do it
on a piece of paper. Because sometimes if
you do it on like a slick surface and then move your paper and your stay
coloring with a lighter color. Sometimes you can actually
transfer that color up. So better to do it on something that you can
see a porous surface that that you can see where the different
blotches of color are. And then make sure to
not shift your image while you're coloring so that
you don't pull up a color that you don't really want. Alright, so we put that embossing ink on
there that's going to hold that embossing
powder while we melt it. Put the excess back in there and I'm using
white powder because I want it to show up really
well on that. Red. If you happen to have
any There's my brush. If you happen to have any Dots have embossing that aren't
stuck to the stamped image. Brush them off before you emboss them because if you emboss
it while it's there, it's just going to
melt into the paper. There we go, all melted. So it's really fun to watch embossing powder melts because
it just goes from being granular and lumpy and kinda
matte looking to glossy. And you can just watch it melt. It's one of those things that kinda has a little bit
of a wow factor two, it looks like magic and it's something I loved doing
with kids because obviously you wanna do it with
supervision because you're using a heat gun and it gets warm and you don't want
anyone to miss use it. But it's, like I said, it's got a bit of a
wow factor to it. Alright, now I'm going to
glue this to my local scrip. These are both scraps
that I'm using. This is actually the back
part of it has a barcode. No reason you can't use
it once it's on here. No one would ever know when
you might as well use up the scrap rate to
glue that on there. I'm just going to use
some double-sided tape. But this way it
will be ready when we're putting our car together. And I have a little
mini tremor for cutting these small
little things. I find it quite handy, especially for the small items. But you could certainly use
a bigger tremor to do this. There we go. Not his ready. I'll see you in the next video
and we'll start assembly.
11. Angel Shaker Card: Assembly: Alright, so for the very
first step of this assembly, first thing we're going to do is we're going to cut
out the ornament. I am using a craft
knife to do this. And I'm actually just going
to be cutting just on the inside of the
stamped line image. I want to see that stamped
line. Personal preference. If you prefer to
not have it there, you can absolutely not. But I think it gives it a right, a nice border. If
you would prefer. You could actually know, you could say you could
use a die cut, but I'm going to hand cut around the hand and I don't want
to lose that detail. And if you were to use a die cut, you would
lose that detail. Alright, that is all cut
all the way through. If there's went there where it's not cut all the
way through. So that's cool. There we go. Indefinitely work on a mat, don't cut right on
your craft table. Then just a nice pair of detail cutting scissors to
cut around the hand. Because it would look
awfully silly if we cut a little angels handoff there. And same with the hand. I'm cutting just
on the outside of the stamped image because I want to be able
to see that detail. It is a bit of an awkward
area to be cutting, but it looks much nicer
when you do the hand. For when you do the
detail cutting. There we go. A little bit around the
thumb, their piece out. Bring up. Alright, we will
move this stuff to the side. Now the very first thing
we need to do with that is we need to put
our piece of acetate. And this just has some
tissue protecting it. We don't need to keep that, but you wanna make sure
that your acetate is a good size that covers
the edge of the area. I have this tape here
and it's yellow. It a little bit with age, but it will still do the job. Glue or a piece of acetate down. The tape that I normally use is the creative taper
soup Wang tape. So this is a little
bit different that be creative doesn't yellow, I'm just gonna put a little bit of collage medium
here just so that, that handles it
caught on anything. So the silk weighing
doesn't yellow. This one has got a
bit of yellow to it, but I'm trying to use up
some of the supplies that I have that happen to use up. Alright, Now before we put anything onto the
back of our card, we need to do our shaker window. So I'm taking those thin strips. I don't think they're really
meant to be curved like this because they don't
sit super, super flat. But they sit flat enough
that it is able to be done. But rather than having this entire window,
the shaker part, I'm only doing this because if this entire window
is the shaker, all of these bits would fall to the bottom and we
wouldn't see them. So I am just building
a little bit of a dam, if you will, around
that cutout area. So those shaker bits are exactly where we
want to see them. There we go. This is going up, it's
not going to matter, is enclosing the whole thing. Now, I'm going to put my
little shaker bits in there. Now this glitter does like
to stick to that window. I left it like that
because I liked it. If you don't want the glitter
to stick to the window, you can use your
anti-static tool and brush the acetate
before you assemble it. I liked it because I thought
it made it look like it wasn't an all over
your literary ornament. Go bigger star
sequence in there. Then I'm going to put this
to cover the back of it. You could do that any color. I wanted it to be a
nice metallic ornament. So that's why I chose a silver. And again, just using
scraps for this, it doesn't need to be, you don't need to cut up a
whole sheet of paper. If you don't have a
whole sheet of paper. Cut this a little bit smaller. Make sure that that hole
is completely covered. If by chance these
edges bother you, you can cut the excess off, but you certainly don't have to. This is all gonna be hidden.
To continue occurred. This is all gonna be hidden.
So it's not going to be something that
you really see, but if that bothers you,
you can cut it off. Now. We're going to take some
thicker double-sided tape. And obviously we can't put
tape there because that is already risen higher because of the foam tape
we use to make our shaker. But we aren't going
to put it around the other edges of the card. Ideally, like I said
before, ideally, I'd love the shaker
part to be in the center so then I could put this foam tape all over
the over all the sides. But that's just not how this
image was and I just liked this image for this application. Alright, now let's take
the backing off here. Glue it to our card front, but make sure you've
got it folded the correct way
because we want to make sure that it sits right. I'm just gonna put
a little bit of adhesive on the back of here. Doesn't need to look
pretty the way. Center it on the
front of the car. Now I did cut this a
little bit smaller so that you could see the
outline from the card. And then this piece here, I'll put that on foam
Pop-Tarts as well. I'm just using this same
tape just for convenience, but you could use
smaller phone pop dots if you preferred. There we go, or if you prefer, you can even cut it
flat and that is what you would rather do. Then last step, we're gonna
put articles on there. This is my empty 21. There we go. Now we need to let those
tickles completely dry. But I can show it to
you without touching them. So there we go. So like I said, the glitter
sticks, silver ornament. I like how that looks and I knew that was going to happen. But if you don't
want that to happen, you could try not using glitter. You can just use
bigger sequence b. Just use your standard
anti-static tool. That will help eliminate that. There we go. Cute little shaker incorporated
within a stamped image.
12. Create Shaker Cards with Stamps Class Thank You: Thank you so much for
joining me for the creating shaker cars
with stamps class. I hope you enjoyed
learning the process. And it's inspired you to look at your stamps that you have and just see which ones have elements that you can
create shaker cards with. I hope to see you back in another class soon.
Have a great day.
Artsy. Island Girl, Teacher
