Sewing Skills Builder Course

1. Sewing Skills Builder Course Introduction: Hi. Welcome to the sewing skills builder course of Isi Saw Academy. My name is Lorraine, and I will be your teacher in this course. If you have completed our basic advanced sewing course or when you already sew comfortably and want to grow your skills, this sewing course is the perfect place to continue your journey. You will learn new techniques, build confidence and expand your understanding of both woven and knit fabrics. This course, I'm giving you three patterns, but I want you to go beyond just following my steps. This is your chance to use the skills you've already learned, think creatively and make each project your own. I'll guide you through the important techniques, but you will also need to problem solve and explore ideas and so with confidence. This course is all about growing your skills and learning to think and sew independently. Will create three complete water pieces in Section one, a feminine cored dress with sleeves and pockets. In section two, a stylish pair of white leg pants. In Section three, you learn to sew on spandex fabric, and then as a test, sew your own versatile aline knit top. With each section, you will receive PDF documents that you need to download. These documents will be available under resources. A list of supplies needed for each of the projects are included in the sewing guide documents. Enjoy the journey, be creative and make these patterns uniquely yours. 2. Print and Tape your Pattern: In section one, you sew the gathered dress. In this lesson, you print out your Perf pattern, and you will learn how to cut and type the sheets. You will receive the pattern in four different formats. For home printing, please use only the A four format or the US letter size. The other formats are for copy shop printing. Make sure to choose the correct format for your paper size. For the pattern, set your printer to actual size or 100% scale. Do not fit the page and use auto orientation. Print the first page and check the test square on page one to confirm print accuracy before you print the rest of the pages on the same settings. For the course preparation and sewing guide, set your printer on fat to page. Your printed pattern might look slightly different from the one in the video, but the principle of typing the sheets together remains exactly the same. Use the diagram on page 14 or 15 as a guide. You need your printed pattern, clear allotype, and paper scissors. The instruction document, look at the picture of the format that you have printed. The pages are numbered. See how many pages there are in the first horizontal row. Left line means on your left side when the printed side of the paper is facing up and the number is upright, cut straight on the lines, otherwise your pattern isn't going to fit in correctly. Row one, do not cut the first page. The rest of the pages in the first row, cut the left line. Tape the left line of page two to the right line of page one. Take your time aligning the pages, tape the corners slightly. Then check that the rest of the lines fit in and tape the pages together. Next is page three. Page four. Page five. Number six is the last page of row one. Row two, cut the top line of page seven and tape it to the bottom of page one. The rest of the pages foot two, cut the top line and the left line, tape the top of page eight to the bottom of page two and the left of page eight to the right of page seven. Page nine. And I. Page 11. Bige 12, which is the last budge in Route two. Then do the same as in row two with all the other rows until you've finished typing the pattern. If the lines of the pattern don't match, loosen the type and retype it. When the sello type does not come off easily, cut the beginning of the type, then carefully pull the paper so that the type is in half. Move the pattern so that it lines up and then type it again. 3. 3. Take Your Measurements: When you take your measurements, write it in the spaces provided in the document. Shoulder to shoulder divide by two, the bust measurement should be taken around the per line. Make sure that the type measure is in a straight line at the back. The waist is the smaller part of the body above the belly button, and below the cage. Again, make sure that the type measure is in a straight line at the back. The length, measure from the middle of your shoulder down to your waist line. Then on the pattern, measure from the middle of the shoulder line down to the waist line. 4. 4. What Size to Cut: What size to cut? The different sizes each have their own line and color. When you print in black and white, you will still be able to identify the lines. To find the correct size, put a ruler with your shder measurement on the back pattern from center back to the shoulder points, then mark your measurement. When your measurement falls between sizes, use the bigger size at the shoulder and armor lines, compare your bust and waist measurements with the pattern measurements, when your measurement falls between sizes, cut the bigger size at the side lines as you can pin and do adjustments later when you do a fitting. It is important that the pattern parts that must fit together are cut to the same size. For example, if the shoulder and armor lines are cut on a large sleeve cap should also be cut on large. If the sides of the top are cut on extra large, cut the sleeve sides and the skirt sides also on extra large. Cut your pattern out and if needed, do the lengthen or shorten adjustments. 5. 5. Lengthen or Shorten the Pattern: Lengthen or shorten the pattern. For a shorter torso, calculate the amount, the pattern should be shortened as follows. Pattern shoulder to waist measurement minus your shoulder to waist measurement. Mark the amount that you need to shorten the pattern above the lengthen or shortened line as indicated in red. Cut the lengthen or shorten line. Then move the bottom piece up to the line. The center front or center back age should line up, type the pieces together, connect the side line. For a longer dorsal, calculate the amount, the pattern should be lengthened as follows your shoulder to waist measurement minus the pattern shoulder to waist measurement. Cut the lengthen or shortened line. Now you need a piece of piper, which is wider than your pattern. Draw two horizontal lines on the piper with the lengthen amount between the lines. Then draw a vertical line on the right side, which will be the center front or center back line. Type the pattern pieces against these lines, making sure that the center lines are in line with each other. Connect the side line. Remember to make these adjustments on both the front and back pattern pieces, do the same on the skirt or any other pattern, you need to lengthen or shorten. Taking accurate measurements and making precise alterations will result in a well fitting garment. Before you do adjustments on your patterns, you must check overall proportions. For example, if you shorten a dress, ensure that the waist line and design details like pockets still align correctly. 6. 6. Pattern Layout: The pattern lie out. When using fabric with prints that face in all directions, you can fold the right side of the fabric inward or outward. When your fabric has repeatable prints, you must fold the fabric with the printed side outwards so that you can see that the prints line up at the side lines. Note the direction of the grain, which will be with the salvage of the fabric, Fold the fabric double and light the pattern pieces out as indicated on the sketch. First pin the pieces that have ps on the fold markers on the fold of the fabric. Make sure you don't we spice in between. Pen the sleeve in position. Both sides of the grind line should have the same measurement from the fold of the fabric. Pin the pocket and leave enough spice for the facin pieces as you will cut the facin lighter after ironing the fus in to the fabric. Fold the piece of fabric for the ties over so that you can cut all four pieces at once. To save time, you can cut the length of the bottom panel and place it on top of the other piece so that the pattern is pin only once. The print on the fabric of both pieces should face the same direction as the bodies and sleeve patterns. Before you lay out your pattern, take away the edges of the bottom layers of your fabric, Mark it with a pin, Make sure that the folds are in line with each other, place your pattern below the pen and on the fold of the fabric. 7. 7. Cut the pieces out: Cut the pieces out, cut all the other pieces out, but keep the spice on the fabric for the facings, leave the pens in. Cut against the edges of the pattern pieces. Do not cut into the extra fabric as you need more fabric for the other two pieces of the pocket and the facings. Place the pocket piece under of cuts. Make sure that you leave enough fabric to cut the two pieces for the. Pen the pocket piece and it out. Fold two of the remaining fabric on the grain, pulling the fabric at the f to test the grain against the grain, the fabric will be stretch. Fold the fabric until the pattern pieces fit in, place the pieces on the To prevent the facings from losing shape when fusing is ironed on, cut the fabric larger than the fc and then on the f onto the fabric before you cut out the f. S. Place the facing fabric on the fusing with the wrong side to the glue side of the and cut the f the size as the fabric. Cover the f with a piece of and then with a hot on without steam. Fold the pieces double, and place the pattern pieces for the on the pent and it out. Aah. I cut out this pals. 8. 8. Notches and Markings: Mark the sleeve notches by cutting them about two millimeter in on the edge. Mark the side and mal notches on the front pattern. Mark the side and mal notches on the back pattern. Mark the pocket placement notches on the bottom panels. Do the stitch line mark on the wrong side of the pockets. And mark the right side of the front and back panels for that ties. Make sure to mark the correct si. The blue making pin is not very clear on my fabric, so I'll go over the marks with a white making pin sole. 9. 9. Prepare the Ties: Prepare the ties, unpin the pattern. On the right side of the fabric, draw a line five millimeter from the edge on both sides. And also on the one end, fold the fabric on the lines to the wrong side and press it, then do the same with the other ties. 10. 10. Staystitch and Tacking stitching: Sy stitch the curve of the front neck line, about 5 millimeters from the edge, stitch lengths on three. This is to prevent the edge from stretching out while sewing the seam. Tacking stitches on the top edge of the bottom panels. Leave a long piece of thread on both sides of the stitch lines. Right side of the fabric, facing upwards. The first row, five millimeter from the top edge of the bottom panels, right side of the sewing foot on the edge of the fabric, needle position to the right with the longest stitch length on your machine. Do not backstitch when you sew tacking stitches. Second row, The right side of your foot should be against the first line. Put the needle settings to the far left. Then sow another stitch line. If your fabric has pulled in a little, you have to smooth it towards the side. 11. 11. Sew the Gathers: Fold the front and back skirt panels double. Mark the center with your pencil on the top edge. And put a pin on the mark. Then fold the bodies front and back panels double and mark the center on the bottom edge. Place the bodies and skirt panels with the right sides facing each other. When the center marks together. And pendcides, 1 centimeter in from the edge to leave space for seam allowance. Hold the bob and thread tails at the one end. Ma both threads, then gently s the fabric along the threads to the. The fabric will gather and form soft folds. Once the two pieces are the same length at the same line, not the threat against the fabric to secure the gathered length, adjust the gas until you achieve the desired fullness, Put enough pins in to keep the gathers in place. Do the same on the opposite side. So the same with the one same allowance, stitch length on 2.5, which is the normal length. M. I over the seams. O. Out the tacking stitches, press the seams and overlok the side edges. Then overlog the pocket pieces all ad. A. And overlook the shoulder edges. 12. 12. The Facings: Overlook the shoulder edges of the facing pieces. Place the back and front with the right sides facing each other. Put pins in. Sow them together with a one centimetre seam allowance. Price the seams open and overlok the outer edge. Place the bodies back in front pieces with right sides facing each other, pin the shoulder edges, So the shoulder seems with one sent to me the same allowance. Pres the s o. With the right sides facing each other, be the ad the neck line of the body. The shoulder seams so line up. Start at C B and save it all around with 1 centimeter same allowance. Cut tra angles at the curves along the same line, it helps reduce the bulk by removing some of the axis fabric. Them press the sea towards the undertitch the s on the. Turn the neckline to the inside and press it. Pen the facing in place and then hand tack it all around on the edge of the overg stitching with the right side of the fabric, facing upwards, do a top stitching around the inside of the hand tacking stitches. If you find it difficult to sew even next to the tacking stitches, use a foot and keep the mark next to the needle on the tacking stitch line. 13. 13. Attach the Files: Fold the ties double with the right side of the fabric facing outward and press them. Make sure the folded edges are lined up. Put a pin on the end that you're going to sew to keep the fabric in place. Start to sew against the unpin end. Your machine may struggle to feed the ties at the start because the ties are narrow. To help wrap the thread ts around your finger. And gently pull back as soon as you start stitching. So an itch stitch on both sides in the length and the one end, stitch length on three. Place the unstitched end of the ties on the marks. The tie should face the opposite side, pen it in position. Sit on the edge. Then so a second row 1.5 centimeter from the edge. L's. Fold the tie over so that it forms a fault against the second stitching, pant in position, then the top stitching two ce from. So, the other three ties the same way. 14. 14. The sleeves: Overlook the side edges of the sleeves. Make sure you place the front of the sleeve on the front of the arm hole. P the under arm points of the sleeves to the under arm points of the arm holes. Ensure that notches match up and pin them. Pen the center mark of the sleeve cap on the shoulder stitch line. Then pin the rest of the sleeve working from the under arm area towards the shoulder. Keep in mind that the same allowance the sleeves and the s. You must pull the and p as to fit the sleeves. To make the sleeve foot in easily, if you have an, set yourer together and a the sleeve cap between the notches to pull in the seam allowance a bit, or you can sew a line of long straight stitches on the seam allowance along the sleeve cap between the notches, then gather the seam allowance slightly. So the same with the one s to made the same allowance? M. Lock the seams and press it to the sleeves. 15. 15. The Inseam Pocket: You're going to sew the in sem pockets. Boot pins in with the placement marks on the side lines. Note that the curve of the pocket faces down towards the hem line. Place the pocket pieces on the side edges of the front and back panels between the marks with right sides facing each other and pin them. So it was once in to meet the same allowance. Fold the pockets out, press the seams towards the pockets and do a top stitching on the seam against the Place the side edges of the front and back panels of the trees with right sides facing each other. Bend the sleeve points together. Bend the underarm seams together. Ben the wise seam lines together. Remember, it is based to light the dress flat on a table while pinning the seams. In disguise, I don't have enough spice to light the dress on the table in front of the camera. Pen the top end of the pocket. And pin the bottom end of the pocket. 16. 16 Double folded Hem: Olo the am edges of the sleeves, follo stitching to the wrong side and press, fold it over again and press. Make sure the seam fases to the back with the right side of the fabric facing up. Start at the under arm seam. So the am five millimeter in from the edge, stitch length on three. 17. 17. Single Folded Hem: Overlook the hem edge of the skirt, fold it 1.5 centimeter to the wrong side and pin it all around. Press the hem. Then tag out the pins. As the hem is folded in 1.5 centimeter, sow the m 1.3 centimeter. To sow the hem, use a sewing guide foot or any other sewing guide. Measure from the middle of the foot to see in which groove the guide should be. Start at one of the seams. The right side of the fabric is facing upwards, side the hem, keeping the fold against the guide, stitch length on three. I hadn't met though. Congratulations on reaching the end of your sving co. Remember, saving is a lifelong learning process, and every project is an opportunity to. Enjoy your sving journey and keep. 18. Wide Leg Pants - Introduction: In this section, you make the wide leg pants with a front waist band and elasticized back. You will learn how to achieve a great fit and finish of your pants. I will guide you through some of the key steps, but you'll be responsible for completing the bicyc steps as you have lent in our bicycle advanced sewing course with the help of the downloadable sewing guide. Please note that the fabric specified in the requirements list is not necessarily intended for the mockup. Instead, you can use a less expensive fabric for the mockup, requirements 2.6 meter by 150 centimeter wide, light to medium white fabric, like cotton, linen, and denim, ten centimeter light wit woven fusing for the we band, the printed pattern and sell type to type the sheets. Basic sewing tools, including your sewing machine and pip processors. Remember to buy at least ten centimeter of extra fabric to account for shrinkage and make sure to wash and iron your fabric before you start sewing. 19. Wide Leg Pants - Prepare and Sew the Basics: Pair and sew the bass. Print your sewing guide document on I four paper. Print your pattern on actual size. Then type the sheets together as you did in the previous section. Don't rely on your usual size as patterns can vary. The measurements that you need is your ist circumference and your lower hip circumference. This will be around the widest part of your lower ip. Stand up straight with your feet together, wrap your type measure around your body snugly, but not too tight. Ensure that type measure is level all the way around and is not digging into your skin. Compare your measurements to the pattern size. If your measurements fall between sizes, you might need to grade between the sizes. This means adjusting the pattern from one size to another in different areas as from the it to the heap, Fold the fabric double and light the pattern pieces out as indicated in the skitch with the gran line of the pieces on the grain of the fabric, pin it to the fabric and cut the pieces out. Follow the instructions of the swing guide and sow steps one to five 20. Wide Leg Pants Steps 6-15: Step six, you're going to do the elastic. Since elastics come in different strengths, measure your back waist from one side to the other, calculate the elastic measurement to be about 20% shorter than your back measurement, and mark this measurement on the elastic. Wrap the elastic around your back waist with the marks on your sides to test the fat. Then if needed, adjust the length. Along the marked lines with six A stitches to prevent fraying. Thetrim the elastic just outside the zig zag stitching. Step seven, fold the waistband, five centimeter to the wrong side and pin it in position. Now you can put pins on the outside near the fold so that your pins will not be in the way when you saw in the groove. Band should now be four centimeter wide on the outside. Step eight. So it in the groove of the waist band seam on the right side, but be careful not to sew into the side seams as you still need to fit your elastic in the side seams. Smooth the fabric to the sides while you do the stitching so that your stitches will be in the groove and not on the waistband. As your stitches are in the groove, it will not be visible from the outside. Step nine. Then the back waist over to the front at the side seams. The wrong side so face outwards. Step ten. Place the elastic against the stitching of the seams between the two parts of the seam and pent in position. Fold the back waist over at the other side. Make sure that your elastic doesn't twist win pinning the other end. Step 11, attach the elastic by sewing two lines of stitches on the side seams. Step 12, fold the back five centimetres in over the elastic and put it in place. Make sure the puns do not go th the elastic, allowing it to slid in the west band. When you're done with the pinning, s a straight line by hand tacking on the overlog stitching and take the pins out. Step 13, try to keep your elastic against the fold of the fabric while you sew. Sew it from side seam to side seam above the tacking stitches. To save time, I'm not going to do the hand, but I do recommend that you do the hand tacking as you break or bend your needle and pins in the process of sewing over them. Step 14. S three lines of top stitching, one centimetre apart with a large stitch length, about 3.5. Pull the elastic to keep the fabric straight while doing the top stitching. Step do a fitting of your pants. You need to take the sides in, pin it wa necessary, making sure that the sides are folded on the stitch line. Adjust the side seams by marking the fabric on the wrong side against the pins. Make sure that you take in the same amount on both sides. Then sew the seam on the marks, but make sure that the new line flows smoothly in with the existing stitch line. Olock the raw edges of the hams, fold it three centimeter to the wrong side, pant in position. Then sew the hems on the right side of the fabric as a top stitching, 2.8 centimeter from the fold, stitch lengths on three, press the hems to finish your pants. 21. Sewing on Spandex Introduction : In this section, you will learn and practice how to sew stretch fabric, as well as how to troubleshoot common problems that might occur. You'll be sewing a sample of a neck line with a facing on Spandex fabric. Once you have completed the sample, you can download and print the PDF pattern and the instruction sheets to make your net e line top. Printing the pattern, set your printer to actual size or 100% scale, not fed to page, and use auto orientation. For the course preparation and sewing guide, you can set your printer on Ft to page. The sewing of the top is your chance to practice what you have learned in this course. The sample, you will need one piece of 35% spandex fabric, measuring 30 centimeters or 12 " long by 150 centimeters or 60 " wide, matching poles to sewing thread, a walking foot that fits your machine for top stitching, magic type for the universal sewing foot, stretch or ballpoint needle, and a twin needle. You will also need 30 centimeter or 12 " of lightweight stretch interfacing for the facings. This amount is enough for both the sample and the net line top. For sewing the top, you will need 1.9 meter or 75 " long by 150 centimeter or 60 " wide of light to medium weight, 35% stretch fabric, such as Viscos spondex, cotton spondex and matching polyister thread. 22. Percentage Stretch in Fabric: Measure the percentage of stretch in fabric. This is viscous spandex. It is normally used for tops, t shirts, and dresses, a four way stretch fabric, which means it stretches well in both directions. To measure the percentage, stretch in your fabric, fold the fabric double on the groin. Hold the fabric firmly with your one hand against a cutting mat, a ruler or type measure. With your other hand, grip the fabric ten centimeter further and stretch it to the point where it still stretches comfortably. Don't pull the fabric too tight. This fabric stretches 3.5 centimeter easily. Multiply the amount of stretch by ten. That will be the percentage of stretch in your fabric. In this case, it is 35%. Is a Nylon spondex known to me as gra used for sportswear, swimwear and form fitting garments like leggings, underwear and dance wear. It is a four way stretch fabric, which means it stretches in both directions. This fabric stretches 3.5 centimeter easily. So the percentage of stretch is 35%. This fabric is called bon bon. It is a synthetic blend of polyester and spondex also a four way stretch fabric. Is used for tops, pants, dresses, jumpsuits, skirts, and cardigans. Stretch percentage, 35%. This is a four way stretch cotton spondex. This fabric is soft on the skin. It is perfect for casual wear, sleepwear and children's wear. Also, 35% stretch. This is a nylon spandex blend. In some shops, they call it Bentley. It is ideal to use for straight leg pants, tapered pants, and pencil skirts. It is more a two way stretch fabric as it stretches well against the grain, but not much with the grain. 1.5 centimeter stretch. 23. Test your Stitching: Now you will sew on small fabric pieces to test your machine tension and different stitches. After each sample you sew, examine your stitching. If it doesn't look right, set your machine tension slightly looser or tighter and sew again, keep doing this until it looks correct. Make a note of the settings and keep it with your sample in a file. A 14 centimeter or 5.5 inch strip from the fabric and set the remaining piece aside for the neck line sample pattern. Then cut the strip into smaller pieces, each about ten centimeter or 4 " wide. You will use these samples to test your sewing machine, experiment with different stitches and adjust your settings to find what works best for your fabric and for your machine. Fold a sample piece double and put it under the universal sewing foot. Put your stitch length on 3.5 and set the tension of your machine at the normal mark. On my machine, it's four. Start by sewing a straight line to see how your machine performs with the normal settings. On my machine, the stitches come out perfectly. If your stitching doesn't look right, don't panic. You will continue testing until you find the correct stitch or method for your fabric and machine. On the back, the stitches look slightly loose, but this is necessary to allow stretch in the seam. And there is enough stretch in the stitching for a seam because of the slightly longer stitch length. Set the stitch length to 1.5 and test what difference it makes. H. The stitches were very small but even. And because this is a firm spandex fabric, the fabric did not stretch out. There is enough stretch in both stitch lines. Now, this might vary on another machine. So I'm going to do the same test on Viscos spandex, which is a thinner and softer fabric to show you what might happen. The stitch length was set on 1.5. You can see the fabric as stretched out. This happens because there isn't enough space in the short stitch length for the fabric to return to its normal size. Now, see what happens with the stitch length back to 3.5. Because of the longer stitch length, the fabric did not stretch out. For the next sample, set your machine to a zigzag stitch with a width of 0.5 and a stitch length of 3.5. And The small zig ac works well for seams, but it's not as neat for top stitching. If your sewing machine has the option for a double overlok seam, then you can try this sample. For any stitching on stretch fabric or other fabrics that are difficult to sew, you can place a piece of magic type under the presser foot. In many cases, the type helps prevent skipped stitches. This stitch work as both the seam stitch and the overlook finish in one. The walking foot helps feed both layers of fabric evenly, and in many cases, it prevents skipped stitches. It has feed dogs underneath the foot that grip the top layer of fabric so that it fits evenly with the bottom layer. Make sure that you buy a walking foot that fits your machine. The feet might differ, but they all have a bracket that fits over the machine's presser bar. This is the bar where the needle clamp screw is attached. You can use the walking foot for seams and especially for top stitching. There's your stitch length again on 3.5. The stitching looks neat and has enough stretch for a seam. You're going to use the twin needle for sewing a hem. Light the second spool of thread on your machine and thread it the same way as the first, but guide one thread through the right needle and the other through the left needle. Put your stitch length on 3.5 and the tension on the normal mark. Fold a piece of fabric over for the m. It should be a little bit wider than you want the hem. This stitch is very stretchy, which makes it ideal for seams on spondyx fabric. Trim the is fabric from the hem, right along this stitching, and you'll have a neat clean finish. H. 24. Preparations for the neckline with a facing: Preparations for the neckline with a facing. Download your sample pattern and print it on A four or letter size paper with the settings on actual size or 100%. Place the front and back panels on the fold of the fabric and cut them out. Make sure that you pin them correctly as you learned in the basics course. Keep the facing pattern one side. Lay the fabric piece for the facing down with the wrong side up. Check for the grain of your fabric. Cut a piece of interfacing the same size as your fabric. The smooth side will face upwards as the rough side is the glue. Find the grain of the interfacing. Place the interfacing with the glue site down on the fabric. The grain should line up. A good quality iron shoe is worth the investment as it prevents burning or melting. Set your iron on a high heat without steam. Cover the interfacing with a piece of piper before you press it. Avoid pressing at one place for too long, as the glue can overheat and turns brown. Once you have completed the entire piece, turn the fabric over, cover it with a clean paper and iron it on the right side to ensure a secure bond. Fold the fabric double on the ground, place the pattern pieces on the fold. Open them and cut it out. 25. The shoulder seams: Olok the outer edge of your facing pieces. The front facing will be overlooked from the shoulder to the V point, and then the other side from the V point to the shoulder. Be careful when you overlook not to cut into your fabric. At the V, pull the loose thread toe through the overlook stitching at the back to secure it neatly. If the overloking looks a bit pulled in, smooth it with your fingers. Overlook the shoulder edges of the front and back panels. Bn the front and back panels together with the right side facing each other. A Do the same with the facing. Place a piece of magic type under the regular price of food to help the fabric light smoothly. Test your machine settings on scrap fabric before you start sewing. Put the stitch length around three to 3.2. Sew the shoulder seams with 1 centimeter seam allowance. Inspect your stitching for any skipped stitches. If you notice gaps, restitch that section to ensure a neat and secure seam. Your stitches are not supposed to skip. So be careful not to pull your fabric when you sew. The edges of the facing should line up on both sides of the seams. If not, unpick and sew it again. Press the seams open. 26. Attach the facing: Fold the facing double at the V point with the wrong side out and mark a line on the fold. The seam allowance for the neck line is 1 centimeter. Make a mark 1 centimeter from the inner edge of the V. If your pattern has a seven millimeter seam allowance, then this mark will be seven millimeter from the edge. This is the pivot mark, meaning you let the needle down in the mark and then turn to sew the other side. Pen the facing to the neck line. Make sure the shoulder seams line up with each other. I The V at center front should also be in line. The facing and the neck line should fit together comfortably. When you lay them down, they should align naturally. So be careful not to stretch it while pinning. So the neckline with the 1 centimeter same allowance. When you get to the V at center front, let the needle in the mok and pivt Inspect your stitching. I 27. Clip the seam allowance and sew under stitching: Cut the seam allowance at the V. Be careful not to cut your stitches. Then cut the seam allowance around the curves. The more you cut into the seam, the neater the neck line will turn out. Praise the sin to the facing and sew understiching on the pacing. 28. Sew the Top Stitching: Then the s into the inside and pin it all around. Hi tack the facing all around the outer edge, making sure that the facing and outer fabric lie smooth and flat. Use small tacking stitches so that the facing is secure. The tacking stitches should be the same distance from the neck line all the way around. If your seam allowance was accurate, then the width will come out perfectly even. Mark center back so that you know where to start your stitching. For the top stitching, put the walking foot in your machine. By using a walking foot, you prevent the top layer from stretching out while you sew the top stitching because the facing is firmer with the interfacing than the outer fabric, and the walking foot will help that all the layers fed through at the same time. Start at center back and sew a top stitching slowly so that you can keep control. Use a bigger stitch length. On my machine, it's 3.5. Tiest this on scrap fabric before you start to sew. For a neat stitching, keep one side of the foot aligned with the tacking stitches. So to the view point. Perfect. And continue sewing down the other side. Remove the tacking stitches. When you press the neckline, press it on the inside. In other words, on the facing to make sea mark showing on the outer fabric less visible. 29. Sew the hem: Now you're going to practice the m. Test your overlooker or search your settings on a piece of scrap fabric, put the differential feed die on normal. The stitch length between three and 3.5, tension between three and 4.5, and adjust the settings if necessary. If you are happy with your stitching, but the fabric has drawn in slightly, smooth it out with your fingers. Overlook the bottom edge of the front panel. Yeah, you can see, again, the longer stitch length helps the fabric to move back to its normal width. Fold the hem 2.5 centimeters or 1 " to the wrong side and pin it in place. Now, you're going to sew the m through the overlog stitching, but on the right side of the fabric. We do a top stitching because the bob and stitching is usually not as neat as the top. To align the stitch with the overloksm base it on the outside of the overlog stitching with the hand tacking. The hand tacking will be your guide when you sew the hem. Put your walking foot in your machine for the stitching. Stitch length on 3.5. Tension on what tasted the best on your scrap fabric. Sew the hem next to the hand tacking stitching. Be sure to guide the fabric with both hands because pandix moves a lot while you sew, and it can easily pull away. Once you are happy with your stitching, you can take the tacking stitching out, otherwise, unpick and sew it again. Check if there is enough stretch in the hem. Press the m on the wrong side. Then you're done with your sample. 30. Test Your Skill: Now it is time to test your skill by following the steps from page five to 11 in the course preparation and sewing guide to sew this line top. Please note that this is a test, so there will be no video guidance included. For printing the pattern, set your printer to actual size or 100% scale, not fit to page, and use auto orientation. For the course preparation and sewing guide, you can set your printer on Fit to page. If you don't have an overlocker or serger, you don't need to overlook the edges as the fabric will not unravel. Using an overlog stitch on a regular sewing machine might stretch out or distort the edges of your fabric. Instead, you can finish the hems with a twin needle. Just remember to add a little extra to the hem allowance when cutting out so you can fold a wider hem. Now that you know what to expect, you one step closer to starting your test project. Keep practicing, keep learning, and most importantly, keep sewing.