Basic to Advanced Sewing Course

1. Introduction Basic to Advanced Sewing Course: Hi, welcome to the basic advanced sewing course of Is Sew Academy. My name is Lorraine, and I will be your instructor for this course. In this course, I share my knowledge of over 35 years of professional sewing with you so that you can learn the easier way of sewing. You don't need any experience, as I will teach you everything you need to know to sew garments and other projects by the end of this course. In section one, you learn about the sewing machine and sewing feed that makes sewing easier. About different kinds of fabric, sewing machine needles, and more up to where you learn to sew straight lines and circles. Then you sew samples of different sewing skills and make notes as you go to keep in a file for future reference. You will receive PDF templates, which will be the patterns for your samples. Print them on home printer standard size paper with the settings on actual size or 100%. This will be paper size a four or 8.5 " by 11 ". Section two, you receive a PDF pattern to sew a zip pouch. In this project, you learn the construction of the pouch and get experience in sewing buys, binding, finishing seams, and sewing a zap. In section three, you receive the PDF pattern to sew a lined slow fashion shoulder bag. The slow fashion shoulder bag is made of recycled jeans and good quality cotton fabric. In this project, you not only learn the construction of this lined bag, but also test your skills by sewing zips, different pockets, and more by binding finishings. In Section four, you sew your first garment. This will be a denim jacket. You can use any commercial pattern with a collar, collar stand, and pattern stands. The PDF pocket templates will be available for you to download. Take the course and embark on your exciting new journey of mastering sewing skills. 2. Supplies needed: The supplies that you need for this course, a sewing machine, one of these quilting rulers, a two B pencil, fabric scissors, paper scissors, thread scissors, sewing gauge ruler, tape measure, a point turner, seam ripper, also called unpicker universal sewing machine needles, size 80 12, good quality pins, two medium size buttons, a pin and notebook, one invisible zip of 20 centimeters long. One metal zip of 15 centimeters long, for the exposed zip sample, one Nylon zip of 18 centimeters long, for the normal zip sample, and one Nylon zip of 15 centimeters long for the pants zip with the fly, 1.5 meter woven cotton fabric of a light color, preferably unprinted so that you will see the pencil marks, half meter calico or contrasting color, cotton fabric, medium size universal hand needle and thread of a contrasting color, half meter, lightweight or medium weight interfacing, a file with plastic sleeves to keep your notes and samples for future reference. You are welcome to ask if you have any questions or need help. I will answer your questions as soon as possible. 3. What sewing machine to buy: A beginner, you most probably still need to buy a sewing machine. When you buy a sewing machine at an agency, they normally give you free lessons so that you can get to know the functions of your machine. I would recommend that you go to different agencies to test their different machines that fits your budget. This way, you will get to learn what machine you like the most. Look for a machine with different needle positions. If you like buttons and buttons, rather buy a machine that can make automatic button holes, it will save you a lot of time. If the agents tell you that the machine can sew on six layers of denim fabric, et cetera, ask them to demonstrate it to you. Never take someone's word without testing it before you buy a sewing machine. In my videos, I use my old paninaRcord machine. The reason for this is because these old machines are very heavy and steady bolt and they sew on almost anything. I bought this machine in 1981, and for most of my life, I used to sew on this machine five to seven days per week. It never had any tension problems. It is now 42 years later, and it is still working perfectly. I mostly use my banana activa machine for the automatic buttons. If you buy a used sewing machine, test the machine to make sure that it is still in a good working condition. People are usually impressed by the amount of decorative stitches that some machines have. These stitches add interest and texture to fabric. As a beginner, you do not need the decorative stitches, but if you do not have an overloger machine, you will need an overlog stitch on your normal sewing machine. If you only want to sew clothing for yourself and your family, then the lightweight machine will do. By the best sewing machine that you can afford, look well after it and it should last a long time. 4. Different Sewing Feet and The Seam Ripper: I would like to show you a few different sewing feet that will make the sewing easier for you. The universal Sewing Foot normally has an open groove in the middle of the foot. Most of them measure 7 millimeters from the open groove to the side of the foot. When you sew a seven millimeter seam, keep the side of the foot on the edge of the fabric, and the needle should be in the middle position. The standard zip foot normally comes with the sewing machine. It has two notches, one on each side. You received the zip foot on the screen. It is most likely that your machine doesn't have the needle adjustment to the left or the right. You will have to clip the foot on the left side or you have to clip it on on the right side. Depending on which side of the zip you want to sew. This zip foot can only clip on in the center. You will have to move the needle to the left or to the right. The invisible zip foot has two grooves underneath the foot to accommodate the zip coils and to keep them in place while you stitch. In the video, I use the plastic foot because the grooves are deeper in it keeps the coil better in place while sewing. When you use the invisible foot, the needle setting must be in the middle position. Keep the coil away with your finger as you sew. Then the needle will sew exactly at the back of the coil. The overlock foot allows thread to wrap around the edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling. It has a pin in the middle of the foot, which keeps the fabric from pulling in while you overlock it. As the machine doesn't have a blade to trim off the fraight edges of the fabric. This will not have a professional look, but is good enough for your own sewing at home. The edge ditch foot, also known as the stitch in the ditch foot, help you to sew a straight stitch on the edge of the fabric. The marking on the side of the foot is normally for quoting, when you sew in the ditch in the front of the foot, there is a metal plate. Keep this plate all the way against the fabric. The sewing guide foot is incrementally marked and you can line the edge of the fabric to any of the red markings, keep a consistent seem. It has a plastic guide that you can move to the mark. You need to guide the width of a seam or width of different stitch lines. Keep the edge of the fabric against the plastic guide to sew a straight seam or keep the plastic guide on a line to sew another straight line. It also have red marks at the front and sides of the foot to guide where your needle should start and finish the ruler foot has a guide with grooves on the side. You can color every second groove with nail polish and a toothpick, then keep the edge of the fabric at the specific groove when you sew a seam or keep it on the previous line. When you sew different lines, the roller foot has two sets of rollers. The bigger one at the front and two smaller ones at the back of the foot. This foot is very useful to sew on leather, stretch fabric, vinyl, plastic, or any kind of fabric that stick, stretch, slip, or slide under a normal sewing foot. The walking foot has its own feet, dogs that evenly feed layers of fabric and patting through the machine while quilting the foot grips onto the top layer of fabric and move it under the needle. At the same price as the machines feed, dogs are moving the bottom layer of fabric. The walking foot is also a micing. When you saw stretch fabric to prevent skipped stitches. For stretch fabric, put the stitch lengths on three and use a ballpoint needle. A very important tool in sewing is your seam ripper, also called unpick. I'm going to show you how to safely unpick a seam. The blade of the seam ripper is between the two points. When you pull thread from the fabric, use the side of the longer point, otherwise it's going to cut the thread, hold the seam ripper on its side against the fabric. Then cut through the back stitching on both ends of the stitch line. Then cut about every third stitch on the one side of the seam, pull the thread on the other side of the seam, then the seam will be undone. 5. Understand your sewing machine: Understand your sewing machine. The sewing machine has feed dogs, which are metal teeth like reaches that emerge from a hole in the needle plate of the sewing machine. The feed dogs move as you sew gripping the bottom fabric to help it pass through the sewing machine and produce a high quality stitch on the needle plate of your sewing machine. There are vertical lines on most machines. These lines are marked. Measurement of the markings start from the middle of the foot. If the measurements are not marked on these lines, set the needle in the middle and use your sewing guy ruler to measure from the needle towards the lines. To see what line you have to use for the width of your seam. You can put a piece of type in a straight line to help as a guide. And then keep the edge of the fabric on the side of the type while you, so it is important to control the foot pedal correctly. As a control pedal plays an important role in the neatness of your work. The heel of your foot should be on the lower part of the pedal, and your fore foot on the higher part of the pedal. This way you will have good control over the petal. When you sew and you see your stitching is going skew, lift your foot off the pedal, then your machine will stop. If the floor is slippery, get a rubber mat to avoid that, the control foot slide. While you sew as sewing machines differ, sit in front of your machine with your machine manual. Go through the manual and make sure that you know what the function of every button is on your machine. Wind the bobbin and thread your machine according to the manual. To wind the bobbin on this machine, I have to hold the fly wheel with my left hand and loosen the wheel release with my right hand by turning it slightly anticlockwise. The reason for this is to stop the needle function while threading the bobbin. Draw thread from the spool clockwise around the tension disc. Make sure that the thread is tightly in around the tension disc. Put the thread through a hole in the bobbin from the inside. And put the bobbin in place. Hold the thread with your left hand upwards. Move the button towards the bobbin. Put your foot on the pedal and slowly wind the thread a few times around the bobbin. Then take your foot off the pedal, but hold the end of the thread upwards until the machine stops. Otherwise, the winding thread will catch it. Cut the piece of thread that you were holding, and then wind the bobbin until the function stops. Cut the thread and remove the bobbin. Remember to tighten the hand wheel releaser, the bobbin thread must unwind clockwise. Put the bobbin in the case, draw the thread through the slot, and then under the tension spring to put the bobbin case back in the machine. Open the hinged latch and hold it again with your thumb and forefinger. The metal finger of the bob and case should face upwards. Put the case in the machine, it will make a click sound when it is incorrectly. Before you threat your machine, make sure that the foot is lifted up to release the tension disks. To threat this machine, there is a hook at the back of the machine where the thread goes through and then on top of the machine through the tension disks. Then it goes down around the hook and then around the take up lever down again. Then hook it in just above the needle. And then from the front through the needle to pull the bottom thread to the top. Hold the top thread with your left fingers, turn the hand wheel towards you. The needle should go down to catch the bottom thread and pull it upwards. Clean your machine. After every project that you so remember to unpluck your machine at the wall before you start cleaning. Although machines differ, the cleaning is more or less the same. Remove the thread, open the bobbin compartment, remove the bob and bob and remove the sewing foot and the needle. My machine also have this cover plate that I need to remove. Push the locking lever to the left and fold down the hook cover. Remove the hook, brush all the dust out. Clean the hook. Rise with a cloth or brush. Never use a sharp instrument. Squeeze two to three drops of oil into the hook. Rise to replace the hook. The driver of the hook should be on the left side. The hook will fit in on the right side. Turn the hand wheel if necessary so that the hook driver is on the left. Close the hook race cover and secure with the locking lever. Insert the Popen and Popen kis. Then clean your machine with a damp cloth. Run the machine for a short time to prevent oil soiling your work. 6. Fabric and Sewing machine needles: About fabric and sewing machine needles. The salvage on fabric is the side of the fabric that prevents it from fraying. You will find it on both ends of a fabric roll. The crane of the fabric runs with the salvage. On a pattern piece, you will find an arrow. This indicates the direction that the pattern piece should be placed on the crane of the fabric. When you pull the fabric, you will see the difference with the, the fabric pulls strong against the grain. The fabric stretches a bit. Natural fabric versus synthetic fabric. Go to your fabric store and ask them to show you different types of fabric. You need to feel the difference between natural fabric and synthetic fabric. Natural fabrics such as wool, cotton, linen, cashmere, visco ion, and silk are made from fibers produced by animals and plants. Synthetic fabrics, such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic are man made fibers created in laboratories. Natural fibers usually have a smaller environmental impact than synthetic fibers because natural fibers do not use as many chemicals during the production process. Some natural fibers are less environmentally friendly than others because some plants require more water. Cellulosic fibers, which is plant based materials such as cotton, viscose, and linen, will catch fire easily and the flames will spread quickly. If the fabric is not impregnated with a flame retardant, synthetic fiber fabrics absorb very little moisture. They become sticky when the body sweats, making them uncomfortable to wear in hot weather. Most materials made from synthetic fibers catch fire easily. They burn, melt, and shrink in flame. For this reason, synthetic fibers must be ironed carefully. Because they melt easily. You sew on satin or silk fabric, use a walking foot, de flon foot, or a roller foot on your sewing machine. If you do not have one of these sewing feet, put a piece of magic type under the normal sewing foot. This will prevent puckering and your stitches will be even. You can use the sewing feet on stretch fabric to prevent skipped stitches, but on stretch fabric you must use a bigger stitch length 3-3 0.5 millimeter about stretch fabric. Two way stretch is horizontal, running across the fabric from salvage to salvage. Four way stretch is both horizontal and vertical, running across the fabric and up and down the fabric. If your garment is made of stretch fabric and it needs a lining, then you must use a stretch lining with the same amount of stretch as the fabric. Or without a means that you cut all the pattern pieces in the same direction, like velvet caudoy or prints that need to face in one direction. Without nap means that you can cut regardless of the direction the fabric looks the same in both directions. Don't forget to follow the grain line. When you buy fabric with a print that forms a pattern, you have to buy at least one printed pattern piece extra. The reason for this is that the fabric is not always cut at the beginning of the printed pattern. You must measure and buy enough fabric to be able to use the full printed pattern on all your project pieces. Use a micro Tex needle size 60 or 70 for fine woven fabric like satin. On other fabrics of light to medium weight. Use a universal size 80 needle for heavy weight fabric, use a universal size 90 needle. You can use jeans needles or universal needles on num fabric. On stretch fabric. Use the stretch needle on knitted fabric. Use the ballpoint or Jersey needle for upholstery fabric. Use universal size 90 or 100 needle or jens size 9,000 needle lightweight fabric. Use the smaller size needle, medium weight size T. The heavier the fabric, the bigger the size needle. We only use cotton fabric in our courses as it is easy to manage and it does not melt when you press it. Always pre wash your fabric to allow shrinking. And iron decreases out before you start your project. If you take good care of your fabric, it will last a long time. Machine wash cotton, linen, viscos, and Ron type of fabrics on a gentle or normal cycle, in cold water, like put them in the dryer on a low heat setting. Hand wash silk in cold water and cool tumble dry or air dry it, Hand wash wool in cold water and air dry it. Interfacing is used to reinforce areas that are subject to stress and helps a garment maintain its shape. Interfacing is also required for many home decorating items. To add support and shape, I do recommend the iron on woven interfacing. The paper interfacing does not last long. In the washing, you get different weights of interfacing for lightweight fabric use the light weight interfacing. The heavier your fabric, the heavier the interfacing that you buy. You also get a stretch interfacing that is used with stretch fabric. 7. Thread tension on the sewing machine: If the tension on your sewing machine is not right, it can waste a lot of your time while sewing a project. Always test on a piece of fabric before you start with a new project. When you test the tension on your machine, use a different color at the top than at the bob, so that you can easily see which one is pulling through the top and bottom stitches interlinked in the middle of the fabric. If the tension is not right, the one will pull tighter than the other one. The looser thread will pull through to the other side of the fabric. Make sure the presser foot is down before you start to sew. Otherwise, there is no tension between the tension disks on the thread. The thread will just run loose through the machine. Re thread the machine. Make sure that the thread is correctly through the tension discs of the machine. Also through the take up lever. The threat on the bobbin should be in clockwise. Make sure that the thread is through the tension plate of the bobbin case. If your machine is threaded correctly, but the problem is not solved, look at the tension dial. The normal tension on a machine is 3-5 Put the tension dial on three, then sew a few centimeters. Check the stitches and move the dial a little bit up. Then sew and move a little bit until your stitches look right. If you have the drop in bobbin, you shouldn't have any problems with tension at the bobbin. But if you have the front load bobbin that has a separate case, it is likely that the screw could be loosened over time. Then you have to turn the screw a tiny little bit to test the bobbin tension. Remove the bob and case from your machine. Hold the end of the thread, then pull up on the thread. The thread should unwind and the bobbin should drop three to 5 centimeters. If the bobbin drops all the way down, then the tension is too loose. If it doesn't drop at all, the tension is too tight to tighten the screw. Turn the screw a tiny bit clockwise to loosen the screw. Turn a tiny bit anticlockwise, I'm going to say with the tension on 3.5 the links are not visible from the outside. 6-7 the stitches at the top are a bit loose, the links are slightly visible at the bottom. I'm going to put the tension on nine to show you what it does on a higher number. You can see the tension at the top is too loose, the links are visible at the bottom. The lower the number, the loser, the tension. When you get to the higher number, you get a tighter tension. If your thread jump off the Tcp lever, the thread will get stuck in the machine. You have to take out the Bob and Is and pull out the thread that got stuck. If you can see the top thread underneath, it means that the top thread is too loose, then increase the tension to a higher number. Or if it doesn't help loosen the bobbin screw a tiny bit. If you can see the bottom thread at the top, then it means that the top thread is too tight then decrease the tension to a lower number. Or if it doesn't help tighten the bobbin screw. 8. Practise to sew: Now that you know the working of the machine, you're going to start sewing, download, and print the practice sheets. Then start with the one with the straight lines. The needle must be in the middle position and the middle mark or groove on the universal sewing foot must be on the line. Remember to put your finger on the top thread to keep it from pulling in. When you start to sew, to sew on the sewing machine is like driving a car. You have to keep your eye on the road. Keep your eye on the middle mark of the foot. Your steering wheel will be, your hand on the paper. Just keep your fingers away from the needle. When you drive too fast, you may lose control. Go slow on the foot pedal. Move the hand wheel towards you to make sure that the needle is on the line. Let your foot slow down on the control pedal. Keep your eye on the middle of the foot and steer the paper to be able to sew on the line. When you must move your hand, let the needle stay in the paper and then move your hand. Otherwise, the paper may move, then your stitching will not be in a straight line. When you get to the end of the line, lift the needle up, then lift the presser foot up. Take the paper out, then you sew the next row. Carry on to sew these straight lines until your stitches are perfectly on the straight line. Then you can start to practice backstitching. The reason for backstitching is to secure your stitch line at the beginning and at the end, Make sure that you know where the reverse button is on your machine. Three stitches, then three stitches backwards. Then sew the line until you get to the end. Leave the needle in on the paper at the end of the line. And back stitch three stitches. Then sew three stitches forward. Practice the lines with the backstitching until it becomes easy for you to do it. Then you can start to practice sewing on the circles. Do not back stitch on a circle. Your last stitch should cover the first stitch. In other words, the two stitches will be exactly onto each other. Just go slow around the circles to be able to keep the needle on the line. Carry on to practice the circles until you can sew a full circle on the line. When you get to the end of the circle before you sew onto the first stitch, instead of using the foot control, lift your foot up and use the hand wheel to finish the last stitch. Cut the thread long enough to tie a knot. Then pull the top threads to the wrong side and tie the knot against the paper. Then you will have a smooth finish on the right side. 9. Samples 1-6 Different seams and top stitching : Different seams. And top stitching draw two straight lines on the edge of the fabric to form a 90 degree corner. To draw the lines, you can use a thin piece of old soap or use your pencil. Draw three rectangles of 20 centimeter with the grain by 15 centimeters against the grain. Then divide each of them in half to assume you need two pieces of fabric. This is why we divide each of the rectangles in half so that you have two pieces for each of the samples. Then fold your fabric double for the samples. We need six rectangles, but we only draw three of them. Because we fold the fabric double and we're going to cut them double. Put your pins on the inside, against the outer lines. Put enough pins, otherwise the layers of fabric will move away from each other while cutting. Do this all around the outer lines. For the inside lines only pin one side of each line. When all the lines are pinned, you can start to cut out cut long strokes with your scissors. As short strokes will give uneven lines. Cut the outer lines all around and then cut the inner lines. The only way to get a professional look on your sewing is to unpick where your seams are not straight or the stitches are not right. Sample one is the open seam. Overlook the one side of each of the two pieces. Place the fabric against the blade of your overlooker. Do not cut into your fabric. The blade should only cut the raffles, test your thread tension on a piece of scrap fabric. Before you start to overlook your samples, do not hold onto your fabric but keep it straight against the metal plate. Do not cut the thread against the fabric, but leave a piece of thread in case the fabric pulls in. If your fabric pulls a little bit in with your overlocking, then you have to smooth it to overlook on your sewing machine. Your settings of your machine should be on the overlock stitch or if you don't have an overlock setting the West six X stitch stitch length on two, taste your stitches on a piece of scrap fabric before you overlook your sample. Here you can see the difference between the overlooker machine and the domestic sewing machine. The right side of your overlock stitching is a side where you see the straight lines of the needle stitchings on the wrong side. It looks more like a zig zag. Always keep the right side of your fabric up while overlocking as your seams will fold into the inside and then it will look professional. If all the seams look the same, put the two pieces with the right sides onto each other. The overlook sides should line up. This will be your seam, then pin it on both ends, and then in between. The reason why we do this is because the tension of your sewing machine is not always the same at the top as at the bottom. The one will pull in a little bit more than the other one. Then when you get to the end, you will see that the one piece will be longer than the other one. Your seam will look flat on one side and pull in on the other side your seam, one al centimeter wide. You can draw a line of one alf centimeter from the edge and then keep the middle of the foot on the line. Or you can keep the side of the foot on the inner edge of your over locking stitches with the needle to the far left side. Put the stitch length one for your samples. This will make it easier if you have to unpick, but when you sew garments, put the stitch length on 2.5 for your seams. Remember to hold the thread, then you can start sewing your seam. Leave the needle in when you take out your first pin, then sew to the next pin, leave the needle in and take the pin out. And keep on sewing like that until your seam is done. Then your fabric will not move away while sewing. Now, press your steam open. Make sure that you have enough water in your iron, and then press it with steam. Overlook your sample on the edges, all around with the right side of your fabric facing up long enough pieces of your overlooking thread at the corners so that you can make a knot tightly against your fabric that it doesn't go loose. In the washing practice this with all your samples so that you can get in the habit of doing this when you do alterations on clothing. Then cut off all the Xs thread at the corners, fold the piece over at the top to the wrong side, and press so that you can see in your file what your sample looks like on the outside and also on the inside. Sample two is the closed seam. The closed seam is used on medium and lightweight fabric. Use the closed seam in side themes, princes seams, and also horizontal seams in dresses and tops. This same can also be used in many other projects. Put the two pieces of fabric with right sides together, put it the same way that you did with sample one. So your seam with the one on a two centimeter seam allowance, keep the edge of the fabric on the one on a two centimeter mark. Overlook the seam. Fold your seam over to the one side. The right side of your overlok stitching should face up. Then turn your fabric and press the seam on the right side of your fabric. Start pressing from the flat side and move your iron over the seam so that you can smooth the seam. Now you can overlok the edges of your sample, Then fold the piece over and put it in your file with your notes. Make another four samples of the closed seam, but for the one sample, cut a piece of calico for the one side and use the outer fabric for the other side. Overlook the edges all around and press the seams, but do not fold the fabric in as you're going to do top stitching. Sample three is the edge stitch. The edge stitch is done on the seam 1 millimeter from the fault of the seam. Put the stitch length on 3 millimeters. The edge stitch to reinforce seams like on ins, at the hip area. The edge stitch is visible on the outside like a top stitching. Put the stitch length on three sample three. B is the unders stitching. Unders stitching is a technique used to stop facings from picking out from the inside of garments. If you attach a facing to a neck line or attach a lining to a trace, you can stitch the same allowances to the lining about 1 millimeter from the same line. This will help keep its stay on the inside where it belongs. The unders stitching is done exactly like the edge stitch, with the difference that the unders stitching is only done on the lining or facing and is not visible on the outer fabric. Here you can see that the outer fabric is visible from the inside, but the lining is not visible on the outside. Fold the sample under seam, line, and press. Then fold the piece over and press sample four is the foot stitch. The foot stitch is also done on the seam, but seven to ten millimeter from the seam line, move the needle to the far left side and keep the side of the foot on the seam line. The foot stitch is done as a top stitching, but it also reinforces the seam at the same time. Sample five is the twin stitch. To sew the twin stitch, you need to do the itch stitch and the foot stitch on one seam. Together they form a twin stitch. The twin stitch is a top stitching that we do, for example on jeans jackets or bags. Top stitching should always be a bigger stitch length the, the fabric, the bigger the stitch length. Sample six is the French seam. Use the French seam on transparent fabric like Phon George and Gus cut two pieces of fabric of 20 centimeter with the crane by nine centimeter wide for your sample. Put the two pieces of fabric with the wrong sides together. The right side of the fabric will face to the outside. Pin them together. So a five millimeter seam, five millimeter is with the side of the foot on the side of the fabric and your needle to the far right. If your needle cannot go to the far right, you can leave your needle in the middle and sew a seven millimeter seam. Then trim 2 millimeters away, press the seam to the one side, then fold it over on the seam line and press it again. The wrong side will face up now, and so one centimetre seam allowance, press the seam to the one side and overlook the sample all around. Then fold the piece over and press 10. Sample 7 The inner corner: Sample number seven is the inner corner. An example for the inner corner is the V neck line. You need to cut one fabric and one lining. The reason why we use Calico fabric for the lining is because it is also 100% cotton fabric. For the corner seam, use the sample 11 template of the corner panel seam. Make sure that the grin of both pieces of fabric are in the same direction and also that the arrow on your template is on the crime. Put your template on the fabric, all around on the edges. And then cut it out like the pens out. Put the two pieces with the right sides together. Then draw a line, 1 centimeter from the edge on both sides of the inner corner. Then mark the corner. Pin them together on the inner corner lines with the needle in the middle position, so under 1 centimeter line until you get to the corner mark. If it looks like your needle will go over the corner mark with the next stitch, lift the foot up and put your needle into the mark. Lift the foot up and turn and see that your needle lines up with the next line. Then let the foot down and sew further to the end. This is what's going to happen if you turn it inside out without cutting your corner. To get a nice and smooth corner, cut the corner to the stitch line. But be careful not to cut your stitches just next to your stitch, please. The same to the lining. And then sow your unders stitching until you get to the corner at the corner. Left the needle in and lift the foot up. Make sure that nothing falls in under the foot. Your fabric should be smooth under the foot, then you can serve further. Sample Should look like this on the outside and like this on the inside. Overlook the raw edges of your sample. Fold the piece over and press and mark your lining. 11. Sample 8 The outer corner: Sample eight is the outer corner. An example of the outer corner is a lined patch pocket. For the outer corner, we use the template of sample 11. B, cut one of your fabric and one lining. Put the two pieces with right sides together. You're going to saw one corner on the sample. Draw a line on both sides of the corner of 1 centimeter wide. Make your corner mark. This is where your needle will stay in when you turn. Put your pins in so the lines, when you get to the corner mark, turn and then sow the other side. Remember to backstitch at the ends. We will not cut into the corner, but we're going to cut the corner away. Throw a line at the corner and then on the line, this line should be just above the corner stitch. Cut the corner above this stitching line. This will help that your seams will fit in better on the inside. When you turn it inside out so that your corners are not too bulky, turn it inside out, then use the point turner to turn the corner out. Mark your lining on the right side. Fold the same to the lining and do your understitching. Start at the one side, you will not be able to do the understitching in the corner. You're going to stitch until you get as near as possible to the corner. And then back stitch. Then do the same on the other side. Smooth your fabric with both hands when you do this stitching. And then do your unders stitching until you see that you can't smooth the fabric anymore as near as possible to the corner. Then do your back stitching and do the same on the other side, the series on the left side now. So you have to move your needle a little bit to the left. I'll lock the row edges all around. Mark the lining. Press your sample and fold a piece over at the corner. 12. Sample 9 The outer curve: Sample nine is the outer curve. An example for the outer curve is a lined curve. Patch pocket or anything that has a curve with a lining. Use the template for the curve panel seam. Then cut one fabric and one lining. Put the outer piece and the lining onto each other. The right side should face each other. Start to pin at both ends and then pin around the curve. As you're only going to sew the curve line, sew a 1 centimeter seam around the curve. The straight edge will stay open. Put your needle to the left and the side of the foot on the edge of the fabric. When you sew a curve, just slow. With your foot on the pedal, check your stitching to see if the curve is smooth. If it's not smooth all around, pick and do it again. When you are happy with your stitch line, mark the lining, fold the seam to the lining. Then sew the unders stitching from the one point to the other point of the curve. Smooth the fabric all the way to make sure that the seam doesn't fold over at the bottom. While sewing the seam of the outer curve is bigger than the inside where it needs to fit in. You will find that the sacks when you turn it right side out to make the sea cut half of the sea away, the unders stitching will secure the seam and keep it from your seam should lie flat When you press it now overlook the raw edges, the sample should still be open so that you can see what it looks like on the inside the sample. Fold a piece over and press again. 13. Sample 10 The inner curve: Sample ten is the inner curve. An example for the inner curve is the curved neck line. Use the template for sample 12 a for the curve seam. Cut one outer fabric and one lining. The lining will be the calico fabric mark the lining. You are only going to sew the curve, put pins on both ends of the curve and then pin in between. So the inner curve seem exactly the same as the outer curve with the needle to the left and the side of the foot on the edge of the fabric fold the same to the lining and to unders stitching. When you turn the sample inside out, you will find that the seam pulls up because the seam allowance of the inner curve makes the curve smaller. This means that the seam will not fit in below the stitch line, cut the way half of the seam, and overlock the raw outer edges of the sample. Press the seam and fold the piece over and press again. 14. Sample 11 The Corner Panel Seam: Sample 11 is the panel seam print. Your templates, the panel to the fab. Make sure that the grind line of the pattern is in the direction of the grind line of the F. Note on the pattern pieces that you only cut one of each panel. The part, the outer corner panel is bigger than the inner corner where it needs to fit in. Because the seam allowance of the outer corner makes the outer corner bigger, the seam allowance of the inner corner makes the inner corner smaller. But the stitch line will be exactly the same measurement on both panels. When you saw the corner panel, you have to mark the stitch line corners on both panels. Put your ruler on the right side of the fabric with the 1 centimeter lines on both sides of the inner corner. Then mark the corner. If you do not have a ruler like this one, measure 1 centimeter in from the edges, make a few marks on both sides, then draw the stitch lines so that you can find the corner. To make sure that you're going to measure the correct corner, put the outer corner panel on the inner corner panel. The right sides should face each other. Make a tiny mark on the corner. Then draw the stitch lines on both sides of the corner. 1 centimeter from the edge. Make the corner mark where the two lines meet. Cut the inner corner panel in the corner until about two millimeter from the corner mark to pin the panels together. Place the outer corner panel with the right side facing down to the right side of the inner corner panel. Put a pin on the edge of the fabric to keep them in place. Then put a pin through the corner marks of both panels and put a pin next to the corner marks to keep the panels in place. On this side, take the pin at the corner marks out and pin the rest of the line so the stitch line from the edge until you get to the corner mark. Leave the needle in the corner, mark and lift the foot up. Then the second line of the top piece to the second line of the bottom piece. Make sure that nothing falls in at the bottom. Pen the edges onto each other. Let the foot down and sew the line to take the fold out at the corner. Cut the extra two millimeter to the corner stitch, but be careful not to cut in your stitch. Overlook the seams, then overlook the raw edges of your sample and press. 15. Sample 12 The Curved Panel Seam: Ample 12 is the curved panel seam. Put the template of ample 12 on your fabric. Make sure that the grind line is on the grind of the fabric. Pen. Cut the straight lines of the sides and the bottom. Leave some of the pens in, then trace the top line together with the curve, with your pencil on your fabric, cut the panel out. The curve should be the same as the pattern piece, otherwise the two panels will not fit into each other at the curve line. Then trace the outer curve pattern and cut it out. Make sure that the curve is the same as the pattern. The panels double and cut. The center marks about two millimeter in on the fabric. The sam, allowance of the outer curve makes the outer curve bigger. And the seam allowance of the inner curve makes the inner curve smaller. But the same lines will be the same measurement. You will have to stretch the inner curve to fit the outer curve in fold the inner curve piece double and make a few cuts around the curved edge. Three to four millimeter in on the fabric. This will make the stretching a bit easier. I have four cuts on each side of the curve and the small cut on the center front with the right sides together, the center marks onto each other. Now you're going to pin the one side of the curve. The straight lines at the top should be exactly onto each other. Put them with right sides together. And put a pen to keep it in place. To pin the rest of this side. Start at the center mark, stretch the inner curve as much as you can, hold it in place with your fingers and put a pin in. And then keep on, ping, ping, until the outer curve fits in on that side. Then do exactly the same on the other side. As the outer curve panel is flat, you have to keep the inner curve panel to the top so that you can see the folds. When you saw the, keep the side of the foot on the edge of the fabric to keep the panels in place to each other. Do not take any pins out until the needle gets to the pin. When you get to a fault, left the needle in the before it catches the fault. Then lift the foot up and smooth the fabric under the foot. Let the foot down, and sew further until you get to the next fault and do the same. I'm going to teach you two different options to finish the curved panel seam. On the one half of the seam, cut triangles until about two millimeter from the stitch line on the other half, fold the seam towards the inner curve panel and do a top stitching on the seam. One to two millimeter from the seam line, cut the y half of the seam on the side where the top stitching is. And overlook the other half of the sea where the triangles are. Impress the Sam and overlook the outer Tes of your sample. 16. Sample 13 The Single Ended Dart: Sample 13 is the single ended dart. The single ended dart is marked on your pattern as a triangle with two angled sides. You will mostly find this kind of dart in the side, seems at the bust or in the waist line for pants or a skirt. Put your template on the wrong side of the fabric, then pen it and cut it out. Put the pin through the dart point. Mark the notches on the edge of the fabric. And then mark the pin at the art point on your connect the marks with the ruler and draw the middle line of the art. This will be the fold line. Fold the fabric on the middle line of the art. Put pins in, make sure that the mark for the dart point will be visible. When you sew, start to sew on the edge of the fabric, do backstitching, then sew on the line until you get to the dart point. Do backstitch at the dart point, but leave a piece of thread about 8 centimeters long so that you can tie a knot against the fabric to secure a smooth finishing. Make sure that you tie the knot against the fabric. Then cut the thread about 1 centimeter from the knot. Press the dart to the side and overlook the raw edges of your sample. When you saw this dart in the side seam, you press it down. When you saw it in the waist line, you press it to the side. 17. Sample 14 Double Ended Dart: Sample 14 is the double ended dot. Print the template, pin it to the wrong side of the fabric and cut it out. Then put pins through all the dots of the pattern. Make marks on the fabric where the pens are. Connect the marks with your ruler. We don't want the middle of the dart to form a corner. Slightly curve the corner with your free hand. Fold the fabric in the middle of the dart with the wrong side out. Then both points of the dart. Put the pen through each of the notches to make sure that they're lined up at the bottom on the double. In the art, you're not going to do backstitching. Leave a piece of thread so that you can tie a knot on both ends of the art. Start to sew exactly on the mark. And then sew the line until you get to the other point. The stitches are exactly from the one mark to the other mark. They mica, not against your fabric. Now do the same on this side. On the outside, the dot points are nice and smooth with the right side of your fabric facing up on the one side and then on the other side so that you have a nice flat team. The double in the art is mostly used for shaping the waist area overlok the raw edges of your sample. 18. Sample 15 The Box Pleats: Sample 15 is the box plets. Box plets are made up of two knife plets facing away from each other. In other words, they are formed when two pieces of fabric or folded away from each other, giving a white vertical pleat. They are often used as a standalone pleat at the back of a shirt or as a series of plets on skirts and dresses. Cut your templates out and pin it on the right side of the fabric. Then mark the lines at the top and also at the bottom row the outer lines of the template. When you make a skirt or a dress, always use a pin of pencil that will wash out so tasted on a piece of scrap fabric. Pack out the pins and then draw the lines between the marks. Cut your skirt panel out on the outer lines. Cut the waistband piece, one fabric and one fusing. Then on the fusing to the wrong side of the overlook, the two pieces all around at the one edge of the skirt, which will be the bottom of the skirt. Fold the hem 2.5 centimeter to the wrong side and pin it. The first half of the hem should be pinned in the direction of the grind line. Then on the second half of the hymn, put your pens against the grind line. On this one half you're going to do the hand. On the other half you're going to sew the hymn with the machine. I'm going to use a darker color of thread so that you can see what I do. But normally you will use the same color as the background of your fabric. Put your thread through the eye of the needle and make a knot with the two points at the end. If this was a skirt, this will be the side seam. Put the needle between the layers of fabric through the inner edge of the overlock stitching. Then in line with your overlock stitch, catch one thread on the fabric with your needle, and then put the needle a little further on. On the inner edge of the overlok stitching. Again, don't pull the thread too tight as your fabric still needs to be smooth. Check that your stitches doesn't show on the outside. Otherwise you have to unpick and start over again. Carry on like this until you finish the first half of the hymn. Normally when you put a hymn in, will start at one of the seams and then end at the same seam again. When you get to the end, put the needle through the same spot where you start it. But for the sample, it will be where the thread is in at the last stitch. Put the thread three times around the needle, then keep your finger on the thread, against the fabric when you pull it through so that it makes a knot against your fabric. Then put the needle between the two layers of fabric and pull it through the hem. So this is what it looks like on the outside. Now you're going to do the rest of the hem by machine. Sew it in the middle of the overlok stitching. Put the stitch length on three, press the hymn on the wrong side. Then mark the center piece with a pin. Fold the one line of the centerpiece. Then put it exactly on the next line away from the center piece and pin it. Make sure that the bottom of the hem and also the stitch line stay in line with the rest of the skirt. Follow the next line to the previous line, then pen. The next line will fold in the opposite direction. Now do the same on the other side of the skirt. Make sure that the bottom and the top edges are in straight lines. Press the plates with steam. Then take out the pins and press it more. Put pins at the plates at the top where you're going to sew the waist band to keep the pleats in place. Put the waist band on the top of the skirt with right sides facing each other. The edges should line up at the top and also at the sides. If it doesn't line up at the sides, it means that your pleats are not folded in correctly. So the same with the one saying to meet the same allowance, press the waist band to the top, fold the waistband 3.2 C to the wrong side. And it, the front of the waist band should measure 2.5 centimeter. Make sure that it is the same measurement all over. Then sew it in the ditch. In other words, exactly on the stitch line of the waistband. Stitch length 2-2 and three, smooth your waistband at the seam while sewing so that you will be able to sew in the ditch and we don't want the stitching to be visible on the skirt. Always use of the same color as the background of your fabric. For box, you always need three times the amount of fabric plus the same allowances. Knife pleads, you need the same amount of fabric, but all the faults should face the same direction. 19. Sample 16 The Normal Zip: Sample 16, the normal sip, the type of the zip is the soft fabric pieces on each side of the coil. There is a slight line on the Zeper type close to the separate teeth. This is the perfect position for sewing your Ip in a straight line. The teeth of the Ip are the little bits that lock together to close the P that can be made from plastic or metal. On the normal P, you will find the teeth on the right side of the zip. The stopper is the piece at the end of the zip that in regular Eps stop the bottom end of coming apart. In open ended zips like on coats and jackets, the chunky bit at the bottom must click together before you can close the zip. It can sometimes be plastic or sometimes metal. You can also create your own stopper when you shorten a zip by sewing several hand stitches or six at stitches with your machine onto each other around the teeth, Then cut the excess piece off at the bottom. If you can't find the correct length of a zip that you need, you can buy the longer one and then make it shorter this way. Remember when you cut your zip, use your paper scissors and your fabric scissors. The pull or tab, also called zipper, is what you use to open and close the zip. You will also find two little stoppers at the top of the zip to lock the tab. When you sip it up, cut a piece of fabric 25 centimeters with the grain by 16 centimeters wide. Then divide the 16 centimeters in half so that you have two pieces. Overlock the fabric and put the two pieces right sides together. Pin them on the one side mark five millimetres above the metal stop at the bottom of your zip. Then measure your from the top of the zip down to this mark. This will be your length measurement. Your seam will be 1.5 centimeter wide. Draw your seam line and then mark the measured length of your zip on this line. Start serving at the bottom of your seam stitch length on three and do a back stitching then until you get to your mark, the needle should stay in the mark and then do a back stitching again. Now adjust your stitch length to the biggest stitch on your machine. Then do a tacking stitch on the rest of the seam Without back stitching, Cut the first stacking stitch next to the back stitching on both sides of the seam. And cut one stitch in the middle on both sides. Press your seam open, make sure that the closed part of your seam is on the right and the stacking stitches are on the left. Take your zip, put it down on the stacking stitch part on the left, on your seam with the right side down with the coil lining up on the same line pin the top of the zip on the edge of your fabric. See that your zip lies flat on your seam. And then put the coil on the same line at the bottom and pin it. Take the top pen out. See that your coil lines up with your seam and then keep it there with your finger. Put pen in and do this all the way until you've finished penning your Ap. Put your Er with a 1 centimeter mark on the middle of your and see which line will measure to 1 centimeter. Then hand tack your zip on that line, all around on this side as well At the bottom. Your tacking stitch should be just below the last stitch of the closed seam. Pull your seam to both sides so that you can see where it opens. And then put the pin just below where your seam is closed. Take a hand needle, put your thread through, and then make a knot at the bottom. Now start on the one side of your Ip and do the hand tacking until you get to the bottom of your Ip. Make your tacking stitches about 1 centimeter long. Then mark the 1 centimeter line on the other side of your zip. Put your needle through the marked line and then finish your taking stitches on that side at the end. Do a double tacking stitch before you cut your threat. Tack the pens out on the wrong side of your up. Unpick the top half of your tacking stitch, then open the Ip and put your normal Sip put in your machine, so next to your taking stitch on the inside. When you get to the zipper, left the needle in, left the foot up and close your zip, then let the foot down and sew further. Then stop sewing when your needle is just below the pin. Now you can turn and sew over the Ip coil. When you get to the coil, you may want to turn the wheel by hand just to get over the coil so that you do not bend or break your needle. Then turn. And so the other side, when you get near the upper, leave the needle in, left the foot up and open your up. Then let the foot down again and finish your stitching. Prese your sample and leave the taking stitches in. 20. Sample 17 The Invisible Zip: Sample 17, the invisible zip. The invisible zip is hidden in a seam. You don't do a top stitching on this kind of zip. The teeth or coil of the zip is visible at the back or wrong side of the zip, always by your invisible zip 2 centimeters longer than the opening where it needs to fit in. Because you need extra space at the bottom of the zip for the sewing machine presser foot to fit in. When you sew it, cut a piece of fabric 25 centimeters with the grain by 16 centimeter wide. Then divide the 16 centimetre in half so that you have two pieces. Overlook the fabric and put the two pieces right sides together. Pin them on the one side. Measure your zip, but keep in mind that the zip should be 2 centimeters longer than the opening. Then prepare the seam and so the Sam the same as the normal Sm, please. The same. Open back out. The tacking stitches. Lay the fabric flat with the right side facing up. And fold away the one side of your fabric. Open the Ip. Turn it over so that the coil or the teeth that is on the wrong side point upwards pin the zip, the coil on the seam line fault that has been pressed in opens must be horizontal in to keep the coil away from the up sew the zip behind the coil down to where your seam is closed. If you have a invisible zip foot, you can use it for this sample. But I'm going to teach you how to sew it with a universal swing foot. Other words, your normal sewing foot. Be careful not to sew the coil but right behind it. If your stitches are away from the coil, the zip will be visible on the right side of the sample until you get to the point where the seam is closed, but don't stitch into the seam line. Close the zip to the top to taste. Now zip it halfway and fold the other side over. Smooth the seam to be flat on both sides. And pin through the zip at the bottom of the unstitched side against the fold of the seam. Turn the fabric over and pin on the wrong side through the zip and the seam only right next to the pin that you inserted. Take out the outer pin, open the zip to the very bottom, and put the rest of the sip on that side with the coil on the same line fold now, so this side behind the oil, down the way the seam is closed. Pull the zip up, place your sample. Your zip and stitches should not be visible on the outside if it is visible. And do it again, Only the P should be visible. 21. Sample 18 The exposed zip: Sample 18 is the exposed Ip. The exposed zip sits right on top of your garment. For a deconstructed look, it can add an element of interest to an otherwise plain garment. Cut the piece of fabric, 22 centimeter, with the grain by 17 centimeter wide. Measure the zip tape from the top edge to the bottom edge. Then cut one piece of fusing with this measurement by 4.5 centimeter wide on the fusing to the wrong side of the fabric. Then overlok the fabric all around. Measure from the top edge of the zip tape down to just below the zip stop at the bottom of the zip on the right side of the fabric. Mark the middle of your fabric. Then draw a line with this length mark. Seven millimeter to both sides of this line. Then draw lines to connect these marks. It should be the same length as the center line. Then draw a line to meet the 27 millimeter marks at the bottom of these lines. Mark 1 centimeter up from the zip length line. Draw corner lines from this mark down to the seven millimeter marks. Cut the center line above the 1 centimeter mark. Then cut to the corners. Fold the seven millimeter lines to the wrong side and press them. Then fold the triangle at the bottom to the wrong side. And press pin and hand tack the zip in place. The zip stop at the bottom should be above the fold of the triangle and the zip should be centered in the middle of the opening. Sew an edge stitch all around the zip and do a foot stitch to cover the raw edges at the back. 22. Sample 19 Zip with a fly: Sample 19 is the zip with the fly. The zip with the fly is the zip that you find in the front of pants and sometimes in skirts. Keep the printed side of your templates facing upwards and the right side of your fabric facing up. When you pin the pieces on your fabric, you have the left side of your pants, the right side of your pants and the fly shield. Pin the pieces all around then cut them out. Pattern notches are small marks on your pattern that you must mark onto your fabric to ensure that the two pieces of fabric will fit correctly onto each other. When you sew it, you can cut them into the fabric about 2 millimeters with your scissors. Do this before you unpin the pattern. Then put pins on the top, stitching lines on the left side of the pins. And mark them with your pencil on the right side of your fabric against the pins. When you make pens and you do the top stitching marks, make sure that you use a pencil that will wash out. Then draw the top stitching line on the right side panel. Mark the notches on the wrong side of your fabric so that your marks are visible. While you do your stitching, Cut a piece of lightweight woven fusing and iron it onto the wrong side of the fly shield. Shiny side of the fusing is the glue side. It's important that you make sure that the side of the glue face down onto the wrong side of your fabric. Put a piece of paper on top of the fusing so that the glue will not attach to your iron when it melts. Use a hot iron. When you do this, note that you do not use steam when you on the fusing on. Otherwise it will not attach properly. Hold the iron at one place. Just long enough to melt the glue and then move it on. Do this until your fusing is attached all over. Mark the notches of the fly shield with your pencil on the right side of the fabric, overlok the left and right panels, all around with the right side of the fabric facing up. Be careful when you get to the curves that you do not cut into your fabric. Your overlocker, just turn the fabric so that it forms a straight line, but do not stretch it out. Overlock the fly panel until you get to the point at the bottom of the fly curve, then fold it in. Don't worry about the fold that forms in the fabric because the overlock stitching will not keep it as a fold. Fold the fly shield double with the right side facing up. Then press it overlock. The raw edges together. Pin the two panels with the right sides together. Start at the bottom to sew the seam, do back stitching, then sew until you get to the mark. Back stitch again. Sew the rest of the seam on the longest stitch length. But do not back stitch as this is attacking stitch. Press the seam open and tack out the tacking stitches, fold the panel with the fly away. Your fabric should lie flat at the seam. Place your zip with the right side down at the top. It should line up on the edge. The coil of the zip should be on the fold of your seam. Put a few pins on the edge to keep it in place. Open the zip and put your pins horizontal. Put the fly shield on the right side of your overlok stitch should face up. Your fly shield should line up at the top and at the edge of the seam, then pin the fly shield. Your will now lie between the fly shield and your panel, fold the other piece of the down to the bottom and put a pen in to keep it there. While you sew your put your normal sip foot in the machine, start to sew at the bottom of your seam and sew it right next to the coil of your Ip. Take out the pen, close the up, and fold the other panel over. Then put puns in to keep it close at the seam. Pin it with the wrong side up. Fold the panel where the fly will be away towards the other panel. Then fold the fly shield over so that you can pin this up to the facing. Then take out the pins in the front and open the zip hand. Take your zip to the fly facing or put pins horizontal in before you take the other pens out. Shows up on the outer edge. Do another stitching. Next to the coil of your P. You will have two rows of stitches on the P, Close up, then fold the fly shield away, put pens in to keep it out of the way while you do your top stitching. The top stitching should attach the flyficing at the back. Put your normal sewing foot in. Put pens through the fly ficing to keep it in place. Then put a pen through the stitch line to make sure that your stitch line will attach the fly fing at the back. Otherwise, you must do your stitching a little bit more to the inside. So the top stitching on stitch, link three, back stitch. When you get to the same line, take the pens out at the back and fold the fly shield over the, put the pen through the bottom edge of the fly shield to keep it in place. Now you must do the back. Back is a very small zigzag stitch. The stitches should lie against each other, but not on top of each other. As sewing machines differ, take a piece of scrap fabric and test your machine to see which setting will be the best. The bottom stitching looks good. The settings on my machine stitch length 0.5 and the width 1.5 The bar taking on the seam line at the bottom of the fly, from the opening of the seam down to the top stitching of the fly. The stitching should touch both sides of the same line. This is what a bar tacking looks like. Then do a bar tacking on the top stitching where the curve starts to attach the fly shield at the bottom. This barking should be about 7 millimeters long. The stitches should lie on both sides of the top stitching. Praise your sample. This is what it looks like at the front and at the back. 23. Sample 20 The seam with a slit: Sample 20. The seam with a slit cut two pieces of fabric of 25 centimeter by 18 centimeter and overlock the edges. A seam of 12 centimeter long by 1.5 centimeter wide and back stitch. Set your stitch length on four. Then do a tacking stitch on the rest of the seam. Press the seam open and take the tacking stitches out, fold the seam to the outside of the same line, and put pins in, mark the 2.5 centimeter of the hem width on both sides of the seam, the edge of the seam on the overlock stitching and turn when you get to the mark then so on the horizontal marked lines, take out the pins and turn the corners out. The seam will fold to the wrong side. Again, pin the hem 2.2 centimeters to the wrong side and press on the inside of the seam. Hem should lie against the fold of the seam so that everything can line up, put pins in the corners to keep them in place. Then measure the seam 1.5 centimeter and pin it on both sides so the edge of the seam until you get in line with where the seam is closed. And so to the seam line until 1 centimeter above the opening. Then turn again and make a mark on the edge of the other side of the seam in line with where you turned the first time. Do this mark. Turn again and so on the edge down to the bottom. Then sow the hem on the middle of the overlok stitch. Start at the stitch line of the seam on the one side and then end at the stitch line of the seam on the other side. The stitch lines at the bottom of the hem should line up with each other. 24. Sample 21 The welt pocket: Sample 21 is the Welt pocket. These pockets are mostly used in jackets and pants, but I also make them in bags. For the sample template, I is the jacket piece. Cut one fabric and one fusing. Place the fusing with the glue side to the wrong side of your fabric and iron it on. Draw the placement marks. On the right side of the fabric template is the pocket piece. Cut one piece of fabric, fold the fabric, double on the grain line. Place the template with the place on fold edge on the fold of your fabric. Then open it and cut it out. For template C, you must cut one fusing. Only place the fusing to the top edge on the wrong side of the pocket piece. Throw the placement marks and then draw the lines exactly as indicated on the template. In order not to sit in front of the camera, I turn my fabric upside down to draw the lines. The top line should be 2 centimeters from the top edge and 2.5 centimeter from the side edges of the. The side lines should be two centimetres down from the top line, then join the side lines at this line should be 2 centimeters from the bottom edge of the fusing. The middle line is 1 centimeter from the top and bottom lines and 1 centimeter shorter on each side. Then draw the corner lines, which forms the triangles with right sides together. Put the pocket piece onto the jacket piece. The placement marks should be in line with each other. Put them together as seen on the video. Start to sow in the middle of the outer line. Remember to do back stitching. When you get to the corner, your needle should stay exactly into the corner, then turn and so straight down to the next corner, then carry on. And so all around the outer lines, it is important that these lines are straight and that the needle is exactly in the corner when you turn. Otherwise, the weld will be skew. Fold the fabric double. See that the edges line up with each other and then cut the medal line. When you get to the triangles cut to the corners where your corner stitch is, be careful not to cut your stitch, but just next to the stitch, push the pocket through the opening to the wrong side. If the fabric pulls at the corners, it means that the corners are not cut near enough to the corner stitch, pull the corners to see if it smooths out. On the right side of the press, the seams to the pocket piece at all four sides of the opening. An inch stitch all around on the pocket piece. Stitch length on three. Place the sample, fold the pocket to the top, then fold it down against the top edge of the opening. Bend the fold just below the top corners of the weld opening. Then see that the fold is in a straight line. Put a pen in the middle below the fold, press the fold, Turn the sample over with the right side facing. Then fold the jacket piece away on the sides, so the triangles through the pocket piece next to the first stitch line. Be careful not to sew into the jacket piece. This stitching will secure the sides of the weld and should not be visible from the outside. Hold the pocket, double the overloked edges should line up all around. Then put pins in so it with a seven millimetre seam allowance, press your sample and put it in your file, together with your notes. 25. Sample 22 Bias binding the curved neckline: Sample 22 is the bis binding on the curved neck line type. The two pieces of the bis binding pattern together on the dashed lines. Make sure that you're layer it out on the bias of your fabric. In other words, the arrow on the pattern should be on the grind of your fabric. The reason why we cut the binding on the bias is because it have to stretch a little bit to fit in where you sew it. If you cut it on the grin line, then it will not be able to stretch. Cut the front and back panels on the fault of the fabric. Place the front and back panels with right sides facing each other. The shoulder edges should line up pin the shelder lines so it with the one seeing to meet the seam allowance, overlook the seams. Then follow them to the back and fold the B binding double with the wrong sides facing each other. And press open the binding on the one end. Draw a line 1 centimeter from the edge. Fold the top over with the right sides together, and mark the center back on the wrong side of the panel. The marked line of the e binding on the center back mark and the binding all around the neck line. Be careful not to stretch your fabric. When you get to the end, fold the back panel on the center back mark, and put the two ends of the Bis binding together. Then cut off the extra piece of binding. Bend the edges of the binding with the right sides together so the one sent met the mart line. Place the seam open, then fold the binding double at the seam. Pin the seam on the center back mark. Start at the center back and sew a 7 millimeters seem all around the neck line. Fold the same towards the panel and then do your unders stitching before you fold the binding over to the right side. Trim the edges of your seam. Fold the binding over to the outside. Make sure that it's the same with all the way around when you pin it, start at center back and then the binding all around on the edge. Stitch length on three. As this is a top stitching, your neck line should be very neatly done. The stitching should be straight on the edge all around. If not, unpick and sour it again until you get it right, press the neck line and overlock the raw edges of your sample. 26. Sample 23 Bias binding the V neckline: Sample 23, the vice binding on the V neck line. When you sew this neck line on the garment, you're going to do the full neck line as you did in sample 22 with the curved neck line. But for this sample, you only sew the V on the front panel, fold the vice binding double with the wrong sides together and press the seam allowance will be 1 centimeter. Draw a line on both sides of the V. 1 centimeter from the edge to find the mark where the lines meet at the corner. Cut the order in until about 2 millimeters from the mark. When the By is binding to the right side of the fabric, the binding should overlap a little bit at the shoulder line, start at the one shoulder line, and sew it with a 1 centimeter seam allowance. When you get to the corner, lift the needle in the fabric on the corner, move the stitched seam, the back and the wrist of the binding to the front. The binding should form a straight line. The wrist of the seam and sided to the other shoulder line. Cut the binding straight with the shoulder line overlok the seam. And then cut the extra two millimeter in at the corner fo the same down. And press the install a top stitching with stitch lengths on three. Your needle should be exactly on the corner. When you turn fold the panel on the center front with right sides together. See that the edges line up and then put pens in on the binding. Put your ruler on the centerfold line and draw a line on the binding. This line should not touch the seam but be just above the seam stitching, So the line on the binding at the back of the V fold the corner piece flat on both sides. You don't want it to be bulky on one side and flat on the other side. Then it, this is what it looks like at the back and at the front on my sample. At the center front, you will see that the dots did not line up in the middle. When you use printed fabric for the binding, you have to do planning. Before you saw the binding on the V. Cut your printed binding longer and fold the binding in half pin a V at the fault to see the results, keep folding it bit by bit, further on until you are happy. Then mark the fold on the binding pin the fold, mark on the V point and then pin it upwards. 27. The Shirt Placket: Sample 24 is the shirt placket, print your pattern on actual size, and cut the pattern pieces out, cut two of pattern B on fabric and two of C on lightweight fusing. I should be placed on the fold of the fabric. And Put a pin through the bottom of the stitch line. The center front line is on the fault. The next line on the pattern is the placement line, and then you have the stitch line. The lines are 7 millimeters apart. At the neck line, mark the placement lines. Mark the pin on both sides of the front. Mark the bottom of the placement lines. Mark the placement lines with your pencil where the cutting lines of the scissors on the neckline. Then draw the placement lines between the marks for demonstration purposes, I'm drawing the stitch lines as well, but you don't need to draw the stitch lines on your front pattern as you're going to draw it on the placard piece. Connect the bottom marks of the stitch lines. This will be the length line. On center front, mark 2 centimeters up from the length line. Then from this mark, draw diagonal lines to the stitch line marks. This will form a triangle at the bottom. Here you can see the triangle. The bottom points are at the stitch lines. Place the fusing on the one side of the placed pieces with the glue facing the wrong side of the fabric. Cover the fusing with paper and on the fusing to the fabric. Remember, no steam fold the unfused sides, seven millimeter to the wrong side and press. To fold the line evenly, you can draw a seven millimeter line on the right side of the fabric and fold it on the line to the wrong side. Then press it. Remember to use fabric markers when you mark on the right side of your fabric. Mark the fused sides seven millimeter and throw the stitch lines between the marks. Fold them double. The folded edge should just cover the stitch line. Then press. Put the placed pieces right side down. The first edges should be on the placement lines. Pin them. Mark the length line on the stitch line of the placed pieces so that you can see where your needle needs to stay in when you do your back stitching. Check the marks at the length line to make sure that you have your marks correctly before you start sewing, your last stitch of your sewing lines should be in the mark when you start to backstitch. Make sure that your stitching ins on the mold of the link line. If you went over the marks with your stitching, unpick and sew it again. Cut the placement lines until you get to the diagonal line. Then cut to your last stitch. Be careful not to cut into your stitch. Fold the centerpiece to the back. Press the seam towards the placed. Fold the placed panels over to the wrong side. The folded edge should be on the seam line. Pin them in position. Place the placket pieces onto each other. For women's clothing, it will be the right over left. For men's clothing, it will be left over right. Pull the placed pieces at the bottom until it lines up. The fold at the bottom of the placed should be in a straight line. Press the fold at the bottom. Turn the bottom piece of the fabric over and put a pin in to keep it in place. See that the fold at the bottom of the placket is still in a straight line. Then sew it in the groove of the fold. Be careful not to sew on the top piece. Cut the extra piece off. And I will lock the edge. With right side facing upwards, so a top stitching on the edge of your placed from the neck down, stitch length on three. When you get to the corner at the bottom, leave the needle in the fabric, lift the foot up and turn. The placed pieces should line up at the sides, then sew the bottom on the placed to the next corner. Left the needle in the corner, turn, fold the fist to the back, then sew the other side to the neckline. Pin the placket pieces onto each other on the sides. To secure the placket at the bottom, sew another line 1 centimeter above the first stitch line. Iron your sample and overlook the sample all around. In the next lesson, you will use this sample to sew your buttonhole. 28. Buttons and buttonholes: Button Ole and buttons. Look in your sewing machine manual for the buttonole settings. As machines differ and have different settings, make sure that you have the correct buttonole foot for your sewing machine. When making button Oles, always iron facing on the wrong side of the fabric that your buttonholes come out firm and neatly. Practice on a piece of scrap fabric before you sew your buttonhole, and do the same before you sew buttonholes on camonds. The automatic buttonole, most buttonhole feet have measuring marks on the side of the foot to sew button noles on cord. There is a pin in the middle of the foot with grooves on both sides. There is also a pin at the back, put the cort under the foot from the front to the back. Over the pin at the back and then at the other side to the front again, if the diameter of the button is 1.2 centimeter at the depth of the button. If it is three millimeter the length of the button, Ole should be 1.5 centimeter. Measure on the side of the foot, at which mark you need to stop for the length of the button Ole. Then move the plastic marker on the foot to that marking. Make your marks where your button Oles need to start. This will be in the center of the button Ole stand. The needle should be above the mark on the fabric and the foot should be in a straight line up to the mark. Then you must press the backstitch button so that the needle reverse automatically and finish the button Ole. This machine will keep the memory for the size of the button Ole to make all the other button Oles the same. To cut the button Ole, put a pin through the top stitching of the button Ol and put your und picker above the bottom stitching. Then cut through the fabric to the top. The pin will prevent cutting into the top stitching. The one step button Ole. Slide the buttonole foot open to the back and put the button in. Then slide it to the front so the button fits snugly in the gap. Then pull the button lever of the machine down as far as it can go, it should butt up to the left edge of the button Ole foot. Then select the button Ole setting on your machine. To sew more than one button Kole, you will need to turn the dial to reset after each button Kole that you sew. Once you reach the end of the button Ole, be careful not to continue sewing beyond this point, the four step buttonw, when you saw the four step button Ole, turn the button for each of the four steps. This is the four step buttonole foot. The red marks that you see on the side are the measuring marks, mark the length of the button. On these marks, on the inner part of the foot are two red marks that are across the machine needle. Keep these markings in line with your marks on the side of the foot where you have to start and end your buttonole. The bobbin case of this machine has a little hole in the finger. If your machine has one like this, put the thread through the hole from the inside to the outside. It puts a little bit more tension on the thread of your Bob. Do this when sewing button holes, satin stitching and free motion stitching. Take it out again after you've finished your button Oles. This is what the button Ole foot for my old machine looks like. It has grooves at the bottom and also the pin at the back for corded button Oles. Mark the full button Ole measurement on your fabric. Test your machine to see if it starts at the front or at the back. Your needle should be above the mark where you will start to sew. Turn the dial to number one. Test your stitch length between 0.3 and 0.5 The stitches should lie against each other, not onto each other. The middle mark of the foot should be on the length mark of the button Ole. Slowly until you reach the mark at the end of the button Ole, lift the needle and turn the dial to number 23 stitches. Lift the needle and turn the dial to number three. Then continue to sow to the next mark. Lift the needle and set the dial to number four, then so three stitches. Number five will make a knot at the end of the button Ole, if your machine doesn't have the setting, leave enough thread so you can pull it to the back and make a knot by hand the buttons. So two button Oles on the placard sample to mark the button placement. Make sure that the panels line up with each other. Then make a mark in the middle of every button Ole onto the bottom fabric. Take a long piece of thread and fold a double. Put the fold of the thread through the eye of the needle. Now you will have four strings of thread hanging from your needle. Make sure they are all the same length. Before you make a knot, the piece between the two holes must be on the mark that you made on the fabric. The needle should go in from the back, next to the mark to the front. Pull the thread all the way through until the knot snucks against the underside of the fabric from the bottom. Put the needle through one of the holes of the button and pull it through. Then put the needle through the other hole and on the other side of the mark, through the fabric, Pull the thread tight. Do it once more. Put the needle through the stitches. Then turn the thread three times around the needle. Pull the needle through. Keep your fingernail on the thread so that the knot forms against the fabric. Then put the needle between the two layers of F and pull it through, cut your thread against the fabric. Do the same with the other button. 29. Shirring: Sample 26 is shearing. The supplies that you need for the shearing is 20 centimeter by 15 centimeter, lightweight fabric, one spool of thin elastic thread, a 20 centimeter piece of six to eight quarter elastic, a botkin and normal sewing thread. Cut a piece of fabric, 20 centimeter wide, B 15 centimeter with the grain and overlok it all around. Thread the machine with normal thread at the top bobbin for the elastic casing. Measure your elastic width and thickness and add four millimeter for E. The six quarter elastic in the video measures six millimeter wide plus 1 millimeter thickness. So in total, we need 11 millimeters for the casing. Fold the overlog stitching to the wrong side and press. Then fold it 11 millimeters to the wrong side and press. So the casing on the edge of the bottom fold. Wind the elastic thread onto the bob and buy machine. Holding the thread between your fingers, not through the disk, be careful not to hold it too tight as we don't want it to stretch out, but also not to loose. The other option is to thread the bob and by hand. Now you need normal thread at the top of your machine and the bobbin with the elastic in the bobbin case. For both front loading and top loading bobbins, thread the bobbin case just like you would with regular thread. Your machine settings should be on straight stitch and stitch length on 3.5. The right side of your fabric should face upwards. Place the fabric with the right edge of the sewing foot on the stitch line and the needle to the far left. Keep the foot on the stitch line all the way and do backstitching at the beginning and end of the sewing line. Leave a piece of thread about 2 centimeters long at both ends. So four more lines, keeping the fabric smooth while sewing. Let the needle down in the fabric when you stop. For the sample, we do the 1 centimeter measurement between the stitch rows. But when you make a dress or a skirt, you can do a 1.5 centimeter measurement between the rows. Then you will draw the lines on your fabric with a fabric marker. Use a Btkun or safety pin and pull the elastic through the casing. Replace the bobbing with normal sewing thread. Sew the elastic on the one side to the casing. Pull the elastic. The left side should still be in a straight line. When you are satisfied with the strength, put it on the other side. Then sew it to the casing. The fabric measured 20 centimeter wide, but after it has been sewn, it now measures ten centimeter. Always do a test first as different fabrics will give different measurements. When you sew a dress or skirt with sharing, do a fitting before you attach the elastic to the casing on the side, pull the elastic and pin it when you are satisfied with the strength, then attach it to the casing on both ends and cut off the excess elastic. To work out how much fabric you need for a project, so a sample of ten centimeter long by 20 centimeter wide with five to six rows on a scrap piece of project fabric. Measure the stitch piece from side to side. An example. The sample fabric is 20 centimeter wide. The stitched sample measures ten centimeter wide. Finished skirt should measure 50 centimeter from side to side. Then you take the 50 centimeter of the finished skirt, divided by ten, which is the stitched sample measurement. Then it gives you five. Multiply the five by 20, which is the sample fabric width. This will give you 100 centimeter plus you need two centimeter seam allowance, 1 centimeter on each side. So the measurement for each of the front and the back pattern will then be 102 centimeter wide. Different types of fabric give different measurements. So always test on a piece of the project fabric before you cut the pattern to work out how much elastic thread you need. Normally, you get five to six rows of 140 centimeter long out of one bobbin. It takes more than one spool of sharing elastic for an adult bodice. For a dress with a sharing bodice without straps or a skirt, make the elastic casing as you did in the sample at the top to keep the garment from pulling down. 30. The Slash Pocket: Sample 27 is the slash pocket. The slash pocket is commonly used in jackets, trousers and skirts. The pocket opening is cut at an angle, making it easier to access items quickly. That can be deeper and more secure than other pocket styles because the angled opening makes it easier to keep items from falling out. These pockets are commonly found on the sides of pants, skirts and jackets. In jackets, they might be integrated into the seam or part of a flap. Bucket panel A forms the sideline of your pans. Bucket panel B with the diagonal line forms the lining of the pocket. Then you have the one front panel for the pans. Place pocket piece B on the side of the front panel with the right sides facing each other. Ben the diagonal line. And sew it with 1 centimeter seam allowance. Olock the seam, press it to the pocket and saw an understitching. I Place pocket piece A on piece B with right sides facing each other. Then pin the inner side edges and bottom edges together. Them with a seven millimeter seam allowance. A Olock the seam. Brace the diagonal seam. Ben the top and side of the pocket to the front panel. And so it on the edge with the front facing upwards. Overlook the edges of your sample at the inner curve, move your fabric so that it forms a straight line when you overlook.