Sewing & Dressmaking With Half-Scale Patterns: Ringmistress

1. Ringmistress Introduction: Welcome to the ring mistress half scale dressmaking course by Theodore gowns. I'm Brittany King, dressed designer and your instructor. I created these half scale evening gown patterns and courses to help you learn modern dressmaking skills. In half the time, you'll experience the entire garment construction process inside the course. But you'll have the advantage of using less material and finishing in less time. This allows you to focus more on perfecting your skills rather than fit or budget. You'll learn techniques such as pleats, buttons, boning course that loops a modesty panel and so much more. I'd love for you to also check out my mini mannequin course and make yourself a cute little display for your half scale garment. You'll need some basic sewing tools and equipment to complete your dress. I have listed some recommendations below. When you have them all gathered, you're ready to start sewing. I hope to see you there. 2. LESSON 1: Layout & Cutting: Welcome to the first lesson of the ring mistress. We'll be cutting out our material today. There is about four layers you'll need to cut out using different fabrics are first one is the underlining. And you'll use your fabric layout guide as a reference to layout and which pieces you'll need to be cutting out. Feasible knit is very easily to cut out and there's only a couple of pieces you'll need to conserve fabric. You can fold over only what you require and leaving the rest single layer. That is a great tip for any sort of material that you can work with different widths. So I'm just cutting out here mostly bodice pieces and these will be fused to the main fabric. On the wrong side. This is our little cups that we're going to cut out. And the point of feasible knit is to give the pieces some extra strength. It's, it works as an underlining and that keeps the shape of the seams. And yes, you see this in a lot of couture garments. And the feasible note is a really great convenient way to do so. Our next layer here is our lining. So you'd probably gotten a polyester or an acetate or maybe even a rayon lining to line your skirt and your bodice and the various pieces are listed on your fabric Leo guide again, I'm starting here with our cut to pieces. So I've folded over the fabric matching myself edges. And I've left out pieces 10.13 because those are single layer. So we have our front and our modesty panel that are single layer. So we will cut those separately. I like to use a rotary cutter. It just provides a lot more ease than scissors, but these are pretty small pieces. So if you feel you need to pin and use scissors, feel free. It's just what you're comfortable with. I'm using my scissors here just to mark the notches on each piece. And you do that just by snipping on the pattern notch line on the pattern piece. So you don't even have to have a pattern not sure. To clear the way. Just snip right into the paper pattern piece. And I'm almost done cutting out the skirt pieces here. And we will need to cut four of the side, back and front. Lift and flip your piece over and cut again. That is done so that the pieces line up because you're working with a folded over a piece of fabric. It's just a good tip to keep in mind. And here we have our next layer, which is our main fabric. Finally, it is got a lot of pieces on it. So refer to your fabric layout guide for the position of them all. Line up there, green lines. I find that using a ruler to go on each grain line at the end points and measured to my folder of my fabric to make sure they are the same distance. That's how you ensure that your pieces are straight and it helps keep them on grain. So these are two pieces that we're gonna do single layer. And you'll do this with the lining as well. And this is our front piece, so it's got no fold. It's just one straight piece being half scale. It's a smaller piece in general, so it's easier to cut out on your fabric. If this was a full sites piece, it would probably be on the fold. Cut-out piece number 13 the same way and continue with your cut two pieces of your main fabric and that should be all of your lining and made fabric pieces. Now our last and final piece to cut out is our contrast, which is whatever color you've chosen for your silk satin, you'll only need a very small amount of fabric for this. But for now I want you to leave this piece, I'm cuts and we'll cover it later on when we're ready to deal with the front piece. So we'll continue with sewing the bodice in the next lesson. 3. LESSON 2: Bustier Cups: Welcome to lesson two of the ring mistress. Our first test today is fusing our bodies pieces. So you'll use a steam iron to press gently onto each pattern piece, matching them up. Before you do, make sure you set aside the right pieces so you know which one is which label them if you have to. I know all the pieces might end up blocking all the theme. We'll start stay stitching all of our curves on the bodice. So use a short stitch inside the seam allowance of each curved seam here. So this is under the bus, will need to support those seams because it will be clipping them in the future. That is always, usually the first step of a bodice is to make sure those seams are nice and supported. So also the side backs here, I'm only showing half of the bodice, so always you'll repeat with the other side. I'm sewing the center back here just with a regular SIM and your seam allowances or quarter inch and a half scale. For the bust cops, you'll need to match at the notches. And so together. It's important to mark those notches because you won't know which side of the bust is left and right. So this helps you figure that out. So those centers themes together. You'll mark here a little dot there that will indicate your center. Your center front. Always remove your pins when you, So that is a good habit to get into. So you'll end up with two of these pieces and we'll press them nicely. So that's seam is nice and flat because we're going to do some top stitching now. On each side of the scene, on the right side, about one-eighth of an inch from the seam line. We're going to get a nice straight stitch, nice and carefully. So we get a nice clean stitch line. We'll do that on the other side as well. And on the other cup too. So you'll have two of these matching cups with their center front marked with those dots. We'll continue pressing now. The bodice here, making sure each seam is nice and pressed steam is great for this and that nice fusing and allows it to stay nice and stiff. So we'll be doing a cup variation here. So this replaces those padded bras, cups you see all the time. This is the do it yourself version, the old school method. This is shown in a lot of old couture goddesses, this wool batting that's in cuffs. It just provides that coverage, that port shaping of the bus line. It just looks so professional, just adds that extra, you know, that is based in onto each cup. I've pasted down the center as well so it keeps in place. And using steam on this nice wall further shapes it. So you get that nice curve to the bodice there. I will continue sewing the baddest in the next lesson, I'll see you there. 4. LESSON 2.2: Bodice Seams: Welcome back. We're now ready to tackle that center plead verse silk satin material. We're going to start with tracing those sharp angles and cutting out the rest of the pleats. Make sure you mark all the notches. This will help you in the long-run match those top plates. They're very important to have those marked. I'm cutting out carefully the top using the tip of my scissors so I don't go over. Good thing, this is such a small piece. You'll have plenty of fabric just in case you mess it up. Next, we're going to fold our pleats, match each notch at the top there and iron it out in place. Then I like to go over and secure it with some pins and use a lot of pins. And we'll just continue down each side. This takes a lot of patients. So go nice and slow. Try to make them as straight as you can. This is good practice for when you do something like this full-scale because it requires a lot of finger movements and careful placing. Pins or your best friend, keep pinning and making sure they're straight. And even, you can even fold up your paper piece there as a reference so you can make sure you're on track. You're going to fold over that last bit so that the savages or the raw edge of the piece is taken care of and it looks all nice and folded and clean. I am pasting everything now together. You don't have to worry about basting your plates. They're going to stay in place. Once the top and bottom there is secure. I'm going to now place it on our front piece or center front that we've just sewn. We need to do this before we do any other construction on the bottom. And I'm just making sure they match. And painting them in place. Having good sharp pins is always great. I use these small dressmaking ones that are nice and sharp. They're good for all materials, especially the more delicate ones like this silk satin. I'm going to use a white thread now, so I'm going to match whatever color my pleat pieces, and I'm going to just go over top of it once more, securing it to the bodice and cutting out all my thread ends, they're going over the curve. And that will also mark my center, center point too, which is very handy and we'll need that when we do the bar, the brackets. Now I'm giving it a good Press their malware ready to continue the bodice. We've already ironed our seams, so we're gonna do exactly what we did on the broad cups, which is do our top stitching on either side of the CMBS. This is a nice look to the bodice, so it provides that kind of full exposed course that look, these nice top stitch seems we're just going to continue the rest there. This is again, one-half of the bodice. You'll keep going on the opposite side as well. Just do a nice small stitch one eighth the way. And now we're going to attach that center front piece that we just put the pleaded front on. And we're gonna so that with a regular stitch and regular seam allowance. And after that sewn than the other side, we're going to have a full complete bought us ready for the bra installation. But we have one more theme to top stitch. So we'll do that on either side. Next, we're going to prepare for the bra cups, and we'll do that by clipping our best curve. Be careful not to clip through the stay stitching that we did in the very beginning. This is tricky. This is where your dot marks of your center front come into play. You're going to match those up with your center front piece. They're both of those should be marked with a dot that you'll match up and you'll follow along the curve, spreading it apart to make sure goes smoothly. And now this is tricky, so go slow based if you need to by hand, if you need to. It's very tricky to work with a curve so sharp like this. So take your time. And for the final cup, the next one, you're going to match those dots up again. It's okay if they're overlapping and seam allowance a little bit, that will all be turned under. Just keep checking the front, making sure that they're centered and they're even they're not lopsided. So there I have a little bit of overlap. That's totally okay. We're going to attach those there with irregular seem. Overall, our basting. This is one instance that I did keep my pins in. You can also hand base this first if you want to avoid that. But for pressing, we're going to clip the wool edge now so that it matches the broadest part. And we're going to press that seam down towards the bottom. And we'll continue sewing in the next video. 5. LESSON 3: Skirt Seams & Attaching to the waist: Welcome back. Today we are tackling the skirt. We're starting with the two-sided skirt pieces in the center. We're sewing those together to complete the front. It's always helpful to lay out your pieces first, I find there's a lot of pieces in the skirt, so either keep them separated and labeled matching your notches. Notches are a good indicator of which piece is which. And we'll do a regular seam down each panel. This is the center front and the side front piece. We've got two side fronts, so we'll do the same on the opposite side. Or next piece is side skirt to side skirt. See here I'm flipping it over and I will go and pin that piece together. These pieces are identical, so it makes it easy to figure out which one is which were being gentle with the curve here. Keeping our fingers taught and growing a lawn the entire skirt length all the way to the ham. Doing your backstitch there. Next we're going to have to mark the center back opening. Most will be the end of our modesty panel and our core sit back and we'll continue with our side skirt to center back now. So we're working all the way around the skirt, doing all the seams. It's very satisfying when they're all put together. And you pretty much have a entire circle, circular form taking shape. We'll do that with the other side of the piece. And once that's done, it's time to press all those seams. Depending on your fabric. If you've got it thicker fabric, you might need to use some steam there. Mine was quite a heavier sense, so I'm using steam to get them all nice and press straight. So now we have our full skirt there, all the panels sewn the center back completely open still. We're going to repeat the same process, exactly the same like our main fabric with the lining pieces. Lining is definitely more slippery. So make sure you're going slow and you're really holding that fabric in place as you're going along. Removing your pins as well with this fabric. Because if you sell over them, they might shift and it's just a lot safer to remove them. And you can work with any puckering going on there. So I think this is probably one of the signs were doing a lot of seems. If you're confused with the pieces, is so handy to keep them separated or together, even then labeling them so you know, which is which we're ready to press that as well. Having an iron shoe with this delicate fabric is good. And shiny fabric. Shoe is what is on top of my iron here. It allows me to press on the right side of fabrics without damaging them. So it's a good protection to have depending on your iron. So now we have our lining piece. They're all done as well. So we're ready to put it together here. We're going to pin the bodice to the waist. And it is so important to match your CMBS. That is the one thing that makes a dress so pleasing to the eye. It's when all your seams continue all the way down. Not mismatched. They're not uneven. So we're just continuing or checking as we go. Your body is going to feel a lot more tighter than your skirt because it's got that feasible knit to it. So just work with this by stretching it a little bit gently. Stretching as you so as well. Just ever so slightly so you avoid any puckering that's going on as you cross each theme, removing your pins as well, because that can cause puckering too as you go along. So we're doing a regular, regular stitch here, quarter-inch going all the way to the center back as well. So just like how we did the broad cups pressing and down towards the waist, we're going to press the waist upwards this time. Instead of opening, I just find this a lot better for courses did things is, and especially with a thicker skirt, pushing it up towards the bodice. Just a lot easier with all this thick fabric going on. So if you wanna do it open to, that's an option. It's totally up to what your fabric. It's like. This just gave the cleaner look for my material. So there we are. We've got a nicely pressed, there's a little bit of a white thread poking out there that can all be trimmed. But it's looking pretty nice so far. We'll continue in the next lesson. 6. LESSON 4: Corset Loops: Hello and welcome back. We are tackling the course, it loops at the center back today, we're going to make some bias strips here by creating a right angle with our salvage edge. Use some grid paper or a ruler to make sure that angle is a right angle. When it's 90 degrees like this, it creates that bias grain line. And I'm making one about 24 " long. And I'll need to make two of these, but make extra if you can. This will be enough strips to do on either side. So I'll cut it out here. So I've got one that's 2 " wide and then one that's one inches on the fold there. So I've made two strips for my course of loops. We're going to make our loops. So I always start at kind of funnel shape at the top, they're going down into the measurement that I suggested. Making a nice loop and having that on a bias makes it easier to curve and loop around some tight loops. So there's my funnel. And I will trim this carefully, making sure not to go into my stitching. Trim away all the access they are leaving about one-eighth of an inch. And that will make it so easy to turn. A loop Turner is lovely, preferred method. Depending on your fabric, this could be quite difficult. So a loop Turner is a must for this. So that catches the end there. This was tricky for me. My fabric was quite thick. So it just took some extra, extra work. They're getting that to turn and it creates a nice tight loop. There. They're made longer. So having that funnel can just be cut off eventually. To prep the seam, I'm pressing it to market where the center back is going to rest, right? We want to make sure our loops are along that center. I want my loops about three-eighths of an inch and down. And this will mark the start of the loops because that will leave enough room for the seam allowance up at the top where we're going to turn under our bodice. I'm going to start sewing these loops by pinning one of the ends. And we're going to just loop around. We're going to stop after each loop is made. We're gonna make them tight. And you're going to want at least half inch in-between. There we go. We're checking with my seam gauge or use a ruler. You can also preform the loops and secure them with scotch tape. I've seen people do it that way as well. But this is definitely the quicker method. Just looping them around, making sure they're the same width as well. So I'm signing a little bit and then I'm looping at and securing it, checking the width there. And this is quite the process. So go nice and slow. To mark the opposite side. You can either use a marking pencil. I like to mark with pins. So I'm just going through the middle there of my loops that will indicate where I need the middle to be on the office side. I'll just do that with all of the loops, making sure when you pass the waist there that your wastes are matching as well. So you don't make them off kilter a little bit. Make sure that they're the same and we'll do the exact same thing on the other side. But now we have those pin markers or you're drawn lines from mirror pencil if you did it that way. And we'll just continue all the way down. Each 12 are marked, um, center, center, back start there. And we'll do that now. We're going to sew up that center back seam. You can see how frayed white material is. If that is annoying to you, you can always pink the edges or surge them if you have a searcher. But here I am pinning all the way to that notch that I did to mark the end of the bodice, where the modesty panel is going to eventually be. You should leave at least three-eighths of an inch space there. Because the modesty panel we'll cover that. We'll do a regular stitch all the way down our center back. And as always, we're going to press our siem after we've sewn, it. Makes sure you've double-checked that your loops line up. If they're a little off, you can always switch and adjust them. And we'll continue pressing the rest of our themes, and we'll continue with the bodice in the next lesson. 7. LESSON 4.2: Modesty Panel: To finish up our core sit back, we're going to need to complete the modesty panel. This is cut out with on a single layer of your main fabric and you're lining fabric. You'll do that and you'll end up with two separate pieces that will then be sewn right sides together. Now a modesty panel is to cover up the space that is left when there's no zipper, there's just a corset. Larger ones sometimes even have boning in it so that they keep shape. But this is really just like an inner flap to cover up that skin that might show through a course it after we've sewn, we're going to trim the edge off, making sure the corners and the curve there is clipped nicely. We're going to turn out and push that corner out with her fingers. It's going to leave a nice rounded edge there. And we're gonna give that a good press, nice and flat. I use my fingertips to roll that lining over so that it's underneath the main fabric and a nice straight line Just continuing down. If you need to remove extra fabric, you can do that as well from excess and seam allowance. So we'll end up with that one open edge. So we need to based that close. Now. This will be the edge that is sewn to the course it, to make it look a little bit nicer, we're going to top stitch the edge of the modesty panel there, just so that that folded over edge stays put. It's going to look nice with some top stitching to match the bodice. We're going to pin to our opening, which is on the left side of the dress. We're going to do it one loop down from the top. That just allows it because there's that seam allowance there. Otherwise it's gonna be too close to the top if we don't move it down a little bit and it makes it easier to loop and tie together. Eventually, I'm just going to pin those nicely. It's a lot of material to go through, so go nice and slow with your machine. If you have the option to lower feed dogs, that might help if you are having difficulties. Here we go. I'm going over the machine is quite sturdy, so I can go over my pins like that. I do remove some of them though there. When it's really thick. There we go. I've done a regular seem there. And we'll finish up by top stitching that edge down because it's quite thick as you saw. We want to make sure that turned under side. Looks as nice as possible. Do a little back stitch. There we go. It's looking nice and clean. It matches to where we've sewn the center back. Now we've got to make the other side look just as nice. So we're going to fold under that seam allowance or loops kinda pop out there. And we're going to talk stitch that down as well. This side will then be lined underneath so that right edge will be taken care of at a later point. You can iron that top stitching and your loops down with maybe a pressing cloth or an iron shoe, and it will continue sewing in the next lesson. 8. LESSON 5: Front Lapel Pieces: Welcome back. Today's lesson is putting together the lapels. These pieces make up for the turned over color like lapel piece that is on top of the bodice. You're going to want two of each, the fuse and the main fabric. They're gonna be double-sided, so main fabric on both sides. And here I'm cutting out on the fuse. And I'm going to show you another way to cut it out, which is I'm doing it single layer. So instead you're going to do two of each piece. So I've traced around it. I'm going to cut that out and then I'm going to repeat that for the second piece as well. But you want to take that second piece and you want to flip it over because you are cutting out on the right side, you can either flip your fabric or you can flip the piece. The piece is generally easier to do. That way they mirror perfectly. Here we go. Using a Taylor's chalk or a pencil. This is the back piece here. So this is all done on a single layer, making sure the green line is parallel to the salvage edge there. That way you'll always know that the grain is straight. And here's the second back piece or tracing that around. This method takes a little bit longer because you are cutting out double the amount of fabric. And the next step is to fuse your front and back pieces. One fuse to each piece. You want to make sure you're fusing on the right side so you can lay out your pieces making sure they're exactly mirrored. You don't want to fuse the right side of one wrong side of the other. That will do so. Just double-check that. You also want to transfer your notches. This will mark the center of your cup. So the smaller end there is your center front. The longer edge is what you attach the back piece here. You want to make sure that those line up nicely. You don't do a regular stitch for that. You notice that the pieces go into a V when you put it together, that's perfectly fine. So when you open it up there, they make a nice angled slope. And you'll do the same for the lining. So you'll end up with four pieces. So to inlining to in the main fabric that you will then press open. Each of those seems there's the main fabric and then I'll continue with the lining and the other matching two as well. We want to match them up right sides together. Painting the corners and the bottom of the pieces. So you'll know that the bottom is the inner curve, where it's curves outward is where at the top of the cup is right. Will so together leave the top open. Because then we'll baste that together because that will be attached to the bodice and then turned under. We go, we've sewn the bottom. We're going to soak up the side. I guess this would be the center front. Then. Now we're going to trim and clip the corner and an angle like that, that gives you a nice pointed corner. So we'll do the same there. For every curve, especially that inner curve there. We're going to clip to the stitching. Careful not to click through it. You can use a point turner as well to get a nice sharp corner. Or your finger or the scissors like I used. I'm doing the same kind of turning method that we did on the modesty panel here, pressing nicely with my iron and some steam. Then we're gonna go ahead and base that top edge. And there we go, do that with the other side and we're ready to continue. I'll see you next time. 9. LESSON 5.2: Bodice Lining: Welcome back. In the last part, we did the cuffs are the lapels and we're going to go forward and attach them to our bodice, match the notches and the side seam so that they are at the right spot and adjusting as you go. And it should and right out to the very center back seam there. Or the loops are going to sew with a regular stitch and a quarter inch seam allowance along that edge. And that edge will be finished with the lining when we do it. So we're gonna go ahead and do the other side the exact same way, lining up our points there. And so that it ends at the center back. Taking out my kin. The material is quite thick here. If you're having a little bit of difficulty with it, change out your needles, make sure they're nice and sharp. There we go. Our to lapels are sewn to the top of our bodies. Now we need to put together the lining. And you'll have to remember from the previous lesson where we put together the main fabric version. So we're going to do the exact same thing, although we don't have to do the top stitching on the scenes with this one. We literally just have to use so the fronts, the side back in the center, back together, leaving the center back open and the cups off for now, we're going to do some pressing on that. Just like normal. After every scene we have to press them open. And there's a lot of scenes, just like the skirts that hurts a lot of themes of those bottles. So there we have it. We have the whole front done. Now, we're going to need to check our pieces of the cups here the dot is the center, notches everything to make sure that the right pieces are put together. There we go, we're going to double-check, are going to just check that our notched their matches or notch on the bonus that we saw the right cut piece to the right bust line. There we go. Bought us lining to cup right sides together with a regular stitch. When you're matching up for the next cup, you want to match those dots, of course, and it should leave about a quarter inch from this, the point there if your center front. That avoids overlapping when the lining turns over, which is similar to what the main fabric was like. So you have your one cup, you're going to match up your dots and your notches and your second cup there should start right where the other one ends. And so on. Other piece there. And lining is slippery. So sometimes my pins just end up still in there. And do the same thing where we're pushing or pressing the seam allowance towards the waste, making sure everything is nice and flat. Our next task is to mark out the boning. So I'm folding my bodice in half here to see the center front. And that is going to be where we're going to put a boning line as well. So I like to mark three-eighths of an inch up and down from the seams for the waist and then from the top. And that's going to ensure that no boning will be sown when the lining is put on. That would give us our length of our boning as well. So I'm using this nylon type boning. It's soluble. You don't even have to put a casing on it. It's really convenient. So we're going to cut our links, they're using are marks that we just made. And I've cut out a boning for each seam there, including the center front. And that should be quite easy to do to make the corners less intrusive and easier to where we're going to round those corners just by snipping them off. This boning is really easy to do and half scale because you don't really even have to do two edges really. You can really just sew down the middle. But if you want a cleaner look, then you can definitely do the two edges here like I'm doing. So we get a nice it looks nicer on the lining side. On the right side of the lining when you have two seams going down their side. So it's nice that you don't even have to pin them. They're pretty sturdy and you just have to keep them centered on the scene. I've used a clear boning piece here so you can better see the stitching that I'm doing now because I ran out. That's what's great about boning. And I will catch you in the next lesson. 10. LESSON 5.3: Bodice Boning: Okay, we're now ready to put our lining bodice piece and pin it to our actual bodice right sides together. Matching all our seams are boning and our lining. And the main seems on the main fabric. I like to curve over my my boning there just to shape it a little bit before it turns under bending it so that it makes a nice round curve. And now we're gonna go. And so the lining to the bodice using a regular stitch length quarter inch, removing my pins, stopping and making sure I'm not getting any puckering going on. This center part is probably the trickiest part. Just so and then either backstitch or use a smaller stitch length to really reinforce that point. So just take your time with it. Make sure you got no puckering going on and you're not going over your boning pieces as well. They should be further enough down that they don't get touched. So now we're going to trim the bulk off from our bonus and clip our curve there. The top of our broadest needs to have a nice turnover with it. So that reducing that bulk and clipping really helps with that. Because there's so much interfacing, there's fusing. There's like four layers of fabric here that we need to trim out. And then to turn under, I like to just temporarily pan my lining down here at the waist. That will eventually be based in together. But I like to just make sure that those boning lines, the seams are not going to shift as I turn under and it helps kind of role that lining under, making sure that they're in the right place. It just makes it nicer finish. And I'm using my fingers to roll that seem under Get the shaping of the bus really down. Curving that boning. Here we go. We've turned it under and pinned it. Now we just really need to press it and make sure that's going to stay nice. So take your steam iron. I'm using my Taylor's ham there to help lift lifted off my ironing board and work with the curve. There we have it. We've got a nice edge to the baddest cups and the front. And we'll continue on in the next lesson. 11. LESSON 6: Buttons & Understitching: We are now in the finishing touches stage of this dress. And the first thing we wanna do is to understand which are top of the bodice. Now sometimes this is done with the machine just opening up your lining and your bodice and stitching in the ditch as they say. But this is a complicated bodice and with many couture garments, it's done by hand. So I'm using the Fell stitch, which goes right to left, starting on the lapel side, exits through the lining side. Then the next stitch is exactly above the last on the lapel side and it just repeats. So if you need to pause this video, please do so. Our next step is the buttons, the decorative buttons on the center front. And this little trick I learned to help with your spacing. I'm going to do a basting stitch that length of those two dots I made on my finger, which is the width of my button. I'm just continuing down each one. Then you ensure that you've left enough space for each button. Pretty nifty, and it helps a lot. When I place the buttons, I'm going to start the top of the button right in the middle of that first space. That way I know that it's the center and my buttons gonna fit and they're going to evenly spaced. Sewing a shank button like this is quite easy. You can see where your stitching and you're just looping around that shaft that's at the bottom. Depends on what button you have picked. These are covered buttons, pre covered. You can buy these at some supplies stores, but a pro button would be nice. Something that goes well with the design, which is totally up to you. So our next placement is in the middle of that stitch there. We know that those two buttons are now going to be side-by-side. And there, sometimes they have different sheen. So you want to make sure you're doing your best to line them up. If that sort of thing bugs or use them. Some people don't. It doesn't really matter. But depends on your button to my buttons are shiny and the greens are going different directions. Yeah, I just continue with that method all the way down. I think I did about six buttons, five or six buttons here. Looping through the shaft and then making a stitch. Finishing off with a secured double knot. And doing a couple of loops back and forth. Here we go. And here's the double not finishing off that last, very last button. Here's the finished product looking very cute. And we'll continue the finishing touches in the next lesson. 12. LESSON 6.2: Skirt Lining & Hand Sewing: Alrighty, we're almost near the end. And our first task in this lesson is to stitch up the center back on our lining piece. So we're sewing all the way up to that notch that we had made. That will open to our modesty panel. So we'll do that with a regular stitch all the way down and then pressing it open once we saw it. When we do that, we can go up further a little bit, just marking that seem there and that will help us hand. So at later, now we're going to attach the lining to the waist. And we'll do that by pinning and matching or seems like normal, making sure they're aligned. You'll notice that I've left the bottom lining free for now because we'll turn that under separately. We'll do our waste stitching here. So in the lining to this skirt and feel free to trim off any of those fraying bits. We're going to pin our lining closed along our loops. So turning under the seam allowance and pinning it alongside the modesty panel side as well. So that just gets turned under right next to the modesty panel. Like so nice and evenly giving it a good pin. Then we're going to hand, so this all the way up. Like that. Very nice. Making sure you're even and you've got no puckers near the end sometimes that happens. But I love a good looking lining on the inside. For this here, we're going to turn under our waste. So pretty much I'm just pre pinning everything because all of this will be hand sewed, will match our CMBS. Giving it a nice press, two, if you'd like before you start sewing it. So this is the other side of the waist. I'm finally tucking that. This is the top of the bottle spur our loops are. And we'll turn that under and Pinot as well. These, this final corner here. Just get it as, even as you can. Pan it. Mttr takes a little bit to get it in the right spot, but pins are so useful in this. So our hand stitch that we're gonna do is the Fell stitch. Again. We use this to under stitch our bodies and we can do the same here on our waist. I prefer the Fell stitch to a slip stitch because it takes less steps. So you can see it more here. We are going on the skirt lining side, coming out on the bodice. Then our next step stitch is right above our very last one, right there. Then I'm coming out on the lining side of the bodice. Then repeating, this is near the bottom of the modesty panel. I'm just making sure that that is nice and secure. And I'm going all the way around it, coming out the other side here. Going up the other side of the course at loops. It's, it's a big job. But in half scale, it makes it so much less time than if you were doing this on a full-scale at the very top, I'm going to just tack down the ends of the lapel here just so that they're not flipping up constantly. I think wearing that and having that happen would be pretty annoying. So we're thinking ahead and we're attacking those nicely down so they stay put. And that's it for this one. And we'll see you in the next lesson. To finish up. 13. LESSON 6.3: Hem & Corset Ribbon: You've made it to the final lesson of the ring mistress, which is hemming. It's always the last step to any dress. And with this one, we're going to press up our half inch him here. I'm using my seam gauge or him gauge you can use making sure that half inch is pinned and steamed any excess out for the lining, you're going to want a folded under an extra quarter inch, so that would be three-quarters of an inch, I believe, in total. Before you start your hand sewing, you want to hang this dress up and makes sure that the hem isn't looking funky, that it's the right length that you've turned under. And make sure that it's even of course. Then you can continue on with your hand sewing, which we are doing the Fell stitch again, my favorite. This is a perfect one also for hymns. It's just attaching two layers here, the lining and the main fabric will do this all the way around. The hem of the skirts, going all the way around. So again, the Fell stitch is your stitching from right to left coming out the other side and the lining going right directly above your last stitch. Here we go. I've made it all the way around and I'm just doubling up my knots and finishing up that last bit of hand sewing. Who? That's quite a lot. You want to give it a final steam pressed to make sure it looks as good on the inside as well as the outside. And our last thing we need to do is how do we close this dress? We need to cut some ribbon. And we finished that edge so that we don't get any fraying with a nice lighter. They're good old Bic lighter to seal those ends. And we can have now something to lace up the back of our dress width to do a course it, you go back and forth alternating and a zigzag type fashion. And it takes, it takes some time. Please dresses our work and you want to make sure that it's easy to do for your clients as much as possible. So sometimes I've had to use a pin there to put some of the ribbon through on the lower end there. Finish it off with a nice bow that you can tuck into the dress eventually. But here we go. There's the final dress. I want to thank you so much for being here and taking this course. I hope you've had fun and that you've learned something valuable. Please do leave me a review or a comment and remember to post your projects. I can't wait to see them. And hopefully I see you again in another course, happy sewing.