Quilter's Bootcamp: Master the Basics

1. Welcome!: Hi, I'm Sarah. I'm a quilter designer and online educator. I've been sewing since I was little girl, but I made my first quilt when I was pregnant with one of my daughters. That was over 20 years ago and I've been hooked ever since. Now. I even own a quilting store in California called modern handmade. In our quarters Bootcamp, we're going to learn how to master the basic skills of quilting, the things that you were really need to make your product stand out. We're going to learn how to accurately cut your fabric and how to get that perfect quarter inch seam allowance will also learn how to make half square triangles and playing geese. These blocks are key components and so many credit designs. Once you master these skills, you'll be so proud of yourself and you're going to be amazed at the quality work that you can produce after you've done in these few basic, fundamental quilting skills. As we work through the lessons and learning these skills will be making this 12 inch block. Makes sure to download the class PDF below because it has all the fabric requirements, instructions, and cutting charts you need. And if you'd like, you can do one lesson a day and by the end of the week you'll have your block completed. Don't forget to share your project with us. I always loved to see how creative and everyone is with their color and fabric choices. So make sure to post it below in the class project section. In the next lesson, I'll show you all the supplies you're going to need for class. 2. Tools & Materials: So in this lesson we're going to talk about what supplies we mean for class. The first thing you wanna do is go ahead and print out your PDF. That's done below the videos here. That's got all of your information, how much fabric you need, your cutting instructions and everything you need in there. The one thing in this PDF is on the second page. This is one of the ways that we test out our seam allowance to make sure that it's accurate. So you just want to make sure that when you're printing this, you do not choose fit to page because that's going to shrink this down a little bit and it's going to make this not actually a quarter inch away from each other. So that's just one thing to keep in mind. So for the tools that they use, you just need a regular ruler. This one's 14 inches long, which is a great size to have your rotary cutter, some sort of marking pen. I really love these. So line air erasable pens. They're just kinda my favorite marketing tool. But you can really use a regular pen, a pencil, whatever you have around is totally will totally work. And then I have to specialty rulers. You do not have to have these. They're awesome. Today I'm going to show you in the videos how to use these and also how to do it with a regular ruler. So don't worry if you don't have these. But these are just great tools for trimming up these units that are made specifically for half square triangles. They've got, this one has a nice diagonal line here to really help you align those up. It's called the Tucker trimmer, and those are also linked in the supply list below. This one is the wind Clipper also by studio when ET, and it is made for flying geese. Same thing at Scott. Specific markings to really help you align those up. Just trim them up really nicely. So I really enjoy these. I personally don't buy a lot of specialty rulers, but these are my go-to all the time. But don't worry, I will show you how to do it with the plain old ruler if that's all you have and you're going to be just fine. 3. Lesson 1: Accurate Cutting: So in this lesson we're going to learn all about accurate cutting. So I've got my fabric coming cutting mat here. I have a really big cutting table in kind of extra large ruler. So if you have this big ruler, this is a 24 inch long ruler, which is awesome because it will cut through the whole width of your fabric as it comes off the bolts. So it is folded right now. But this is exactly how it comes off the bolt. So if you happen to have a nice big table and a big ruler, you can just leave it just like this straight off the bolts in. You're going to put your fold of the fabric, redolent of one of your horizontal lines on your map. And then you're gonna take your ruler in. You're always going to have to straighten that this first edge before you start cutting your strips. In. So the second way that I make sure that my rulers straight is you're going to want one of these lines to match up and down with the lines on your map as well. And then you're also going to make sure that they're matching going horizontally. So you know that that's straight. You're just going to put quite a bit of pressure on your ruler. If you don't, it's going to slide and that's going to really cause for some inaccurate cuts. So that's probably one of the biggest problems is your ruler slide. You're also going to take your rotary cutter and you're going to hold it about like this. I like to have it at about this angle. If you hold it up, straight up, you're not going to build it, get enough force behind it to really roll it nice and straight. So right about here in, you need to press a little bit hard. You don't have to press really, really hard. You just need to be a little bit careful, but it just a little bit of pressure in the spirit of that. And that's just something you're going to have to practice. Just take some scraps and really get the feel for the angle that you want to use your cataract and how much pressure you need to put behind it. So I'm going to show you, most of you are not going to have a big mat and a big ruler. So before I had this setup, what I would do and what most of you are going to have to do is I would go ahead and take my fabric and I would fold it in 1.5 more time like this because I didn't have enough big enough work surface to have it open. And you just want to make sure that this edge is parallel with your salvage, nice and straight. If he get off like this and you start cutting, all your strips are going to be crooked. So this is a key part making sure it's really nice and straight. Then again, you're going to have this fold now right along one of the, one of the lanes going this way. And then if this was your first cut, you would go ahead and straighten up this edge as well. Since we already straightened it, I'm just going to put that right against one of the lines going this way. Make sure this is all good and straight like that. So the ruler that I have most of the time is to solo on the grid ruler. This one's only 14 inches long, but as you can see, that is long enough to make it through this fabric points, it's folded like this. So then I would go ahead. And figure out what strips you're gonna cut. Let's say for this project that we're doing three inch strips. So you're gonna go on your ruler and you're gonna go to the three inch mark right here, line that up with the edge of your fabric. And you can also see that the ruler is matching the lines on the mat here and here with the M3 and slam on your rulers. So that's staying nice and straight. Another easy way to know that staying straight is that it is all even with this line on the map. So you know, that's three inches. Then the last thing you want to check is that it's also straight this way. So let tames, I'll push it up till it's on one of the line markings because it's easier. And C, and that is straight here. This is straight here. This is matching up. Once you get the hang of it, this is much faster, but those are all the things to keep an eye on in use some pressure on your ruler so it doesn't slide. Or you got this just a little bit off because I wasn't watching. So some pressure cut through like that. And there's your strip and then he would just go and get the next one. Again, the three inch mark. Do all those same tricks for lining it up. Go ahead and cut it. Then one thing I do want to draw your attention to after you've done several strips, probably, you know, 345 strips. And especially if you're doing really small strips, like one inch strips, even two inch strips, your edge is going to tend to just get off just barely on each strip. And so after about five strips, you could be off an eighth of an inch. And so it's just smart to go back and go ahead and restraint in this edge one more time. You can just take off like a quarter of an answer doesn't need to be much, but it just brings it back in alignment so that you're going straight again. If you never do that by the time you're done cutting all your strips, it could really be off. In that I was gonna go ahead and show you how we're going to cut these. So let's say you've got all your strips in that you're going to make these into three inch squares. So what I like to do if I know that I have to cut enough to use up the whole strip, I just keep it folded like this. And I'll kinda line this up with one of the horizontal lines again so I know it's straight. And I'll go ahead and cut this edge off because we want to get rid of the salvage is and we don't need that fold. So I will just lay this on here and making sure that this is string with one on the vertical lines, putting pressure on there. And then I'm just going to trim that right off, right. Then you're going to go exact same way you're gonna do your three-inch marking in and it's going to go over three inches. And now that it's cut, you can also kinda make sure that you're staying with these lines here. So you've got three inches there, three inches there. And put some pressure. Just like that in if you needed a match squares for your project that you know, you have to do the whole strip. You just keep right on going to put that on there and just kinda double-check It's all right. So that is it's pretty simple. It really is just taking the time to really make sure that your ruler is aligned both vertically and horizontally. And that you're putting enough pressure on that it's not going to slip. Because if you're really not holding it match and it slips like this, your cuts can be critical to your squares going to meet her kid. And the accuracy of your cutting paired with the accuracy of your seam allowance is really what is going to make or break your quilts. If you can get both of those things dialed in, your blocks are going to come out. Perfect. You can give me so happy. So I would go ahead and pull some scraps out and kind of practice with this. And many can grab your instructions for the block, for the project. Go ahead and cut out in the instructions here. It's right here at the bottom of your cutting so you can go ahead and cut those. And we'll be back for the next lesson. 4. Lesson 2: Accurate Seam Allowances: Okay, So we're at the sewing machine. And the first way that I like to test out my seam allowance is by doing it on this paper. Make sure again that you printed this. You did not choose fit to page or anything like that so that this is an actual quarter of an inch. So you can double-check that with your ruler as well just to make sure before you start this. So my machine, you can move the needle position, which most of you hopefully will also have this feature. So I know that if I move it over to my machine, it says 5.5. I know that that is going to be going to adjust this at night. You guys can see what I'm actually doing here. Okay? So I like to put the edge of my presser foot on this solid line here. When you're going to be sewing on fabric, that's going to be the edge of your fabric. And so I've, I've changed my needle position to 5.5 and I just want to put my needle down. And then you can actually your presser foot up if you're having trouble seeing sorry about that. And kind of peek under there and makes sure that your needle is actually right on that dotted line in it is. And then you can actually just do a little test sewing. You can have thread in or not in for this matter. So I know that if I keep the edge of my presser foot right on this solid line. And that's going to actually be staying right on the dotted line when I'm selling? Yes. Yes. Sorry, it's a little awkward with piece of paper. But now you can see that the sewing was right on the dotted line. So now I know that where my needle position is right now is always going to give me a perfect quarter inch. I really like using this method because lining up the edge of your presser foot with the edge of your pieces is a lot easier for me than trying to line it up with a line on my machine. So let's show you this with fabric. Okay, so I've still got my needle position in the same place. And I'm going to put my fabric in and see how the edge of my presser foot is right along the edge of the two pieces that I want to sew together. Just make it a little bit. And then you can double-check this with your ruler. If you want. They can lay that on there and see how that quarter inch ruler line is right on the stitching line. So you know that it's perfect. So another way to do this, if your needle will not move and you need to figure out where a quarter of an inch because there's usually marks here that show it. But like on my machine, a quarter of an inch is so far in that you can't even see the line for it. So you're gonna take your ruler and slide it under here. Put your presser foot down and you're going to very gently lower your needle so that you can see if it's going to be on the quarter-inch line. Obviously don't want to really. All the way touched the ruler. And you can kind of put your presser foot up so you can see a new layer. This is a little hard for me to see with the camera in front of me. Getting some old eyes here. Okay. So that looks like it's about right. So what I would do is you can take a piece of masking tape or painter's tape like this in, line it up with your ruler. Like so. And that's going to give you a guide this side of the wings and see how that's actually inside my presser foot. That's my presser foot since I didn't move my needle. So that's a really great way also of giving you nice big died. You can do this even if you want it to move the needle and have it be the edge of your presser foot. If it's easier for you visually to have this long area to follow, you can go ahead and put tape on your machine that way as well. So you can go ahead and test this out. Just take a little scrap piece. And then you have the edge of the fabric but up against the edge of your blue tape. And then you can go ahead and take your ruler and just triple check it here. Lay your ruler on there and make sure that the quarter-inch line yep. Lines up with your thread and with the edge of your fabric. So and my last tip for just having really accurate seam allowances is really just to go a little bit slower. I tend to go really fast and try to just jam through projects. And the faster you are, the sloppy or you are really. So just slow down a little bit and just really keep an eye on where the edge of your fabric is. And that's really going to help you a lot. So once you think you have your seam allowance set at the right place, we're gonna do a little test. I'm going to just double-check it. So I've got three pieces here that are 20 inches wide. And we're going to sell them all together. And then we're going to measure the middle piece and make sure that it came off the correct site. Just so our third piece on you. All right. So if our quarter inch seam is correct, then that would subtract a quarter of an inch from either side of this middle piece in this should measure 1.5 inches at this point. So I'm gonna go press this real quick and then we're going to measure it. Okay, so I've pressed this open and we're just going to measure this middle piece here. And again, like I said, it should be 1.5 inches. So you can just collect 1.5 inch line is right there and that's also lining up right with that piece. You can also, if it's a little bit easier to tell, is move this over and then just use the ruler on both sides. So 1.5 inches. So that came out just perfect. So that's the way to triple check that you have everything set up just perfectly. So at this point you've tested out your seam allowance on your paper. They checking your needle position and you've practiced on your scraps of fabric. And then you've gone ahead and sodas three pieces together and measured that to make sure that it's coming out the correct size. So go ahead and grab some scraps and sit down at your machine and play with your needle position and all the tips and tricks that we just gave you and get your seam allowance styled in perfectly so that tomorrow we can start sewing on our block. 5. Leson 3: Half Square Triangles: So today's lesson is all about half square triangles. And these give you this great printable chart. It's in your notes. You can go ahead and download this and print it out. It's got the cutting instructions for all the sizes from one inch square to 12 inch square. So any project that you're working on, you can just refer to this tells you the size to cut the squares of the sides to square them up to at the end. And I love this method because they're a little bit oversize. So you know, they're always going to come out right? Even if you're sewing isn't 100% perfect to have enough room to trim them up and they're always going to come up the right size. So let's get started with this. For the block that we're working on, we're going to need two of the coral color and then there's two different Gold fabrics. So what we're gonna do is put one gold with each coral like that. And what you do, these are solids, so they're not really right sides or there's no really right side. So put them together in. What you're gonna do is you're going to draw a line from corner to corner. I love these erasable. So line markers, mark stay there for I would say a couple of hours. So dump go ahead and mark for your whole project and then come back tomorrow and you can be really sad because the lines will be gone. I did that one's on and quilting project. I marked the whole quilt and I was very sad the next day because the lines were already done. So just work kind of an hour or two ahead. That's about it. So you're going to lay this on here. You're going to hold it and just draw a line from corner to corner. Just like that, super easy. You gonna do the same for this one. You can use any kind of pen. You can just use a regular pen or pencil, whatever it's going to show up. You're actually cutting it apart right on this lens. So it's not the National at all. So anything that works for you for marking, go for it. Alright, so we're gonna move to the sewing machine and we're going to just sew a quarter of an inch away from this line on both sides. So I'll show you how that works. Okay, so at this weighing machine, we're gonna go ahead and so a quarter of an inch away from either side of our line. So I have my seam allowance setup, like I showed you in the lesson for the seam allowances so that it is a quarter of an inch from the edge of my presser foot. So I just line up the presser foot with the drawn line. Search something. Now if you have a whole bunch of things to do, you can chain piece and you can keep just feeding through the next ones. But since I just have this Huang, I'm just going to pull out, put the threads, even I'm going to go ahead and do the other side right there to sync up. All right, so now that we have our sewing done. We're back at the cutting mat. We're just going to cut this apart right on our drawn line like we talked about. So like this back up. Go ahead and cut it. And then we're going to press this open. And I've got a couple here that I already pressed open. And they look just like this. So our finished size on these when it's sewn into the block is three inches. So what we're gonna do is trim them to 3.5 inches. And you can go ahead and refer back to your chart for this, we started with four and a quarter inch squares. We're going to trim this unit up to 3.5 inches right now. And then that gives you a three inch block. Once you're all done, you know, taken away the seam allowances. So any square ruler that you have will be awesome for this. This is a tucker trimmer. I really like this one. It's just very easy to use and straightforward. So back to my chart here. I'm looking for 3.5 inches. So this ruler has the full inches on this side, and if you want half inches, it's on this side. So 3.5 inches. What I like about this ruler is that it's got the line here that you're going to go lined up with your cell phone line so that you need that angle is right. So if you can see this, I've got this on this line here. The 3.5 inch dotted line is here. And so see how much extra I have to trim off instead of it being like already 3.5 inches and it's a little bit crooked and it's not right. There's always enough room to trim it and make them come out perfect, which that's what I love about this method. So what you're gonna do, trim the side and the top like that. Many pull those away. And then you're going to turn this, this way. So you had just trimmed these edges. So diagonal line this up again because those edges are already trimmed in other perfect. Now you're going to line the 3.5 inch dotted line with the lines that were already there, the edges that were already trimmed. And then you're making sure that this line is straight on our diagonal. Press down. And you do again the side and the top row and see my religious sled. So I think it's fine. I don't think it's written. It's going to be cutting into the block. But that is why you really need to press hired. I was pressing pretty hard and still sled. So that's kind of part of it sometimes goes awry and we have to remake something, but that just lit a tiny bit. That's fine. I just could keep going in. It's perfect now. So I'm just going to show you one more so you can really get the hang of it. Again, you're going to put this line on the diagonal. And all you need to do is make sure that you have something to trim off on the sides and you're dotted line is still within the block, so you're going to have something to trim off over there as well. In the stone. And across the top like deaths from right to left can be a little bit tricky. It's just something you kind of have to get used to. But it's not too hard. And obviously I'm right-handed. If you're left-handed, you're going to be going at this from the other side. So again, I line this up with the pain have little. And that is perfect. So that is our super easy method for Habsburg triangles. You're going to find these units in so many blocks like you don't really realize it until you learn them and when you start patterns. And there's just so many times where there's half square triangles. You can make a lot of really cool designs with them. 6. Lesson 4: Flying Geese: Today we're going to work on our flying geese. This method makes four at a time, which is nice and fast. And it uses one large square in for small squares. So your small squares are going to end up being the small triangles and the flying geese for the points. If you're making something like a star block. So this is our printable chart that you've got again in your notes today, can download and print. And it's going to tell you the sizes you need for a bunch of different sites flying geese today we're making three by six flame piece, the finished size. So you're going to look for that on our chart. That's going to tell you you need four-inch small squares and 7.5 inch large square. And that when you're done so you're going to trim it to 3.5 by 6.5, that gives you your seam allowance that you need. And all the backside of this is your instructions. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna take two of the small square that first, we're going to lay them on our large background square like this in each corner. And you're gonna notice that they overlap in the middle just a little bit. And let's get you need that for your seam allowance. So you're gonna get those on there. And depending on how big your block is, you can go ahead and pin it them if you feel like you can get this to your sewing machine without it moving around and that's fine. This one's probably big enough that I'll pin it. But before that you're going to go ahead and mark your line. And again, just like the Habsburg triangles, you're gonna go pointer to pointer. And I have my cell line erasable marker again. You just can't draw this like that. And then you've got your line. And since this is a little bit big, I'm going to go ahead and just put a couple of pins in it. And in a similar manner to making the half square triangles, we're going to sew a quarter of an inch on either side of the strong line. And then we're going to cut it apart. And then we're going to add more triangles to it, will actually squares these extra two squares. So let's head to the sewing machine and we'll work on that. All right, so to sell our flying geese, we're going to be doing the exact same method where we are a quarter of an inch away from this line. So again, my presser foot is set so that that is a quarter inch seam in. You're going to go ahead and start going in, take your pin out once you get close to it. And in now you're going to go ahead and so on the other side of the line and some miles right there, eight, we're going to head back to the cutting board and organic to me as a pirate. And I'll say the next step. So now that this is someone we're just going to cut it apart on the drawn line here. And then we're going to go and press these any press it so that these points go up away from the main triangle. So I'll go do that. So now that we've pressed this open, we're going to add our second square to it. And it just goes in the other corner like this. And again, we're going to draw a line from corner to corner on our new square. Just like that. And then we're gonna go. And so this one-quarter inch on either side of the drawn line slept tied to the site machine. So now we've got our second piece that we're ready to so on. In its exact same process, we're just going a quarter of an inch on either side of the line. Now we're gonna go cut this apart and trim them up. Okay, so now that we have that zone, we're going to cut this apart right on the drawn line from corner to corner. Just like that. And then we're going to press this open. So let me go press these and then I'm going to show you how to trim them. Okay, so we press these open. Now we're gonna go ahead and trim them up. You can use a regular ruler, can use the specialty ruler. This is the wing clipper by studio 180. This is such an easy one to use. It just has really clear markings for, especially for flying east. Let's all its use for it just really helps you get the perfect size. So what we're doing is we're looking for 3.5 by 6.5 markings on this ruler. Because once it's sewn into quill, it's going to be three by six. So that 3.5 by 6.5 is giving you your extra seam allowance that you need. So this ruler has an x here that shows you exactly where to put it in the peak of your flying geese unit. And so that is right there. And then these lines, Hopefully over a 100 diagonal lines between the mirrored turquoise and your weight. If they're not quite perfect, then you're going to want to just kind of sketch it just a little bit so that it's kind of in the middle of the two lines. So say that this one's way off. You're going to want to twist it just a little bit to make it kinda compensate for that and have the same amount on each side. But this one is working out really well. So we just want the x sum at the bottom there. And you want to make sure that your 3.5 line is still on the fabric, not off the fabric so that you have somewhere to tremble. And up here at the top, this is pretty much already straight. The flux like I don't have a lot of extra to get rid of. But that's fine. As long as you have the fabric there, as long as they're not too short. So what I'm gonna do is go ahead to marry, say, trim the top, like that. And then you're going to turn it over. And then this ruler has another x up here to show you where to put it. So now you're looking at the 3.5 line, the 6.5 line on those cut edges. That's all you need to worry about. And then your x is at the top of your point there. So this is giving you a perfect quarter inch seam allowance patents to your point. And that is a key to make. It must turn out right, because the way you saw it into your block, you're not going to lose any points. It's just going to come out perfectly. So you can put some pressure on here to the right and trim the top. So the fakes, look how nice that looks. And once you get that sewn into your block, it's going to come out but perfect size. I do want to show you my other block here. When they started to measure it, I noticed that this is going to be a little bit short right here. And even though I was super careful, things happened in sometimes your blocks to still come out to a 100 percent perfect. So we're going to do laying this up to psyche when you're going to see that down here on this side, I'm fine on this side. And just a scooch short, which is fine because it's less than my quarter inch seam allowance. So I just need to know that when I'm sewing it, I'm going to have to compensate for that a little bit. So to me saves. Turn it to begin. So again, you can see I'm a little bit short right here. But not so much that I can't use the block once in a while. You just are so off that you either have to take it apart and resell it, or are you just scrap it and you just try again? So you're going to be able to tell this as a little short here. When I'm sewing it into my block, I'm just going to when I lined it up with the other piece, make sure that I'm keeping it straight. And then I know that I've got to make up for just a 16th of an inch there. But it's still gonna work out fine. He's still have a quarter of an inch from your peak. And that's the important part. So it's still going to fit into your quote just fine. I wanted to show you what I was talking about with the one flying geese that was a little bit shy at the top there. So I've got a pin to my center of the block. I have a pin in it because I want this point to match the point on the block. In, so as I'm matching up the top here, this part was just fine. So that's going to be matched up to the edge. But you're going to see that right in here. It's just a little bit shy and that's fine because it's way within that quarter inch mark. But you're just going to know that and kind of keep it just a little bit away from the edge of coral color fabric in. It's going to come out just right. So I'm gonna go ahead and so this and show you what I mean. I want to take your pen and then go ahead and line up the edge of this one. Right? So see how this is a little bit shy here. But once you open it, the counter, those points just all matched up perfectly and you didn't lose any of this points on your plane qis, once this is pressed, it'll be even better. And you didn't lose any of the point on your center unit either. So I hope that helps. So I wanted to show you how to trim these. If you don't have a specialty ruler, if you don't have one that's made specifically for flying geese. So you can just use a regular old ruler for this block. These units need to end up being trimmed to 3.5 by 6.5 inches. Because when they're sewn into the block, they're going to be three by six. So you're going to need to do a tiny bit of math for this. Not too bad, but however wide it, the whole unit needs to be 6.5 inches. You just need to find what's half of that. So in this case, three and a quarter inches. So again, take your ruler and laid on here and you're going to find your three and a quarter inch mark right there. And you're going to place that right on the peak, the big triangle, this middle triangle. And then the other thing you need to watch for is that this line here is a quarter of an inch that, that is also at the peaks so that you're getting a quarter of an inch seam allowance above that peak. That's the key to getting these straight. And then when you're citing them into your block there, your points are going to turn out perfectly. So I've got it on three and a quarter. I've got my quarter inch extended above that peak. And then the other thing that has seemed to double-check is that it's actually deep enough this way still. And it is it's 3.5 inches, just barely 3.5 inches down there, but is so it's gonna be fine. So it just seems a little bit more. We're just kinda making sure that you've really got it in the right spot. And you're going to press it down in your gonna do the same thing as with the specialty. Really just do the right side and the top. And then you're going to pull those pieces away, flip it over in. You're gonna do the same thing. Except this time you're just going to have to do 3.5 inches this way across the bottom and then 6.5 inches from here to here. And then I also like to triple check when I'm doing that, that I still have my three and a quarter inch mark great there at the peak. And I do. So then I'm just going to hold this quite a bit of pressure. It can slide and then trim. And then you've got your perfect plane use unit. So really your key is making sure that this is in the center every unit, and that you've got at least not at least unit a quarter-inch above those peak to make it turn out pretty quickly. So I just wanted to say you that in case you just have a regular ruler, you can still totally do this. 7. Lesson 5: Sewing the Block: So in this lesson, we're going to take all of our completed sections and go ahead and assemble the block. So you're gonna play your instructions back out in on page five. This shows how to put together the center of the block with all over half square triangles that we made. So these are all sewn in square root in there, ready to go together. So you're gonna go ahead and do what this shows where you're going to. So these two together and these two together, just click this and we're going to move over to the sewing machine and do that. Okay, so we have our seam allowance set at a quarter of an inch. And I just want to point out that this diagonal seam right here, you want to make sure that those are matching, that both pieces together, that that's matching and you can feel it with your fingers that way it's going to meet in the right place when he saw this scene. We're going to go ahead and solve this. And then if you want, you can chain piece and go ahead. And so the next one without taking this out and cutting all the thread, you can just do the next one. And again, I kinda feel right here, make sure this is all lined up nidus. And then what we're gonna do is iron these open. Like this. This will flip around and then we'll iron those open and sew them together. Okay, so we've pressed these open and you just want to press towards the darker gold on both pieces because that way, when you put it together to so the block together, your seams can nestle together. If you can see right here, this seam is pressed this way and that one is pressed that way. So you can just butt up against each other. And again, you can use your fingers to feel that they're nestled really nicely. If you feel confident enough, you can just nestle it and go ahead and sell. But you can always put a pin right there just to keep it in place. I like to after I felt with my fingers, I put the pin right in the same line, but then I can flip it over and check in. It's right on that seam line on the back, so I know it's perfect. And then I'm just gonna go ahead and so this seam right here. And then you just want to stop and pull your pin out right before you get to it. Some people think they can so over pins, but it's pretty, pretty dangerous. You can definitely hit the pen and then you end up breaking your needle. And they all mass. Perfect. So that's done. Then you're just going to open that up and you're going to press that seam open. And then I'll show you the next step. All right, so we've got our center unit down. It's all pressed open. And what we're going to be doing next is adding are two of our flying geese unit. So you're gonna grab your instructions again. And it's showing the how to make the flank He's units which we've already done in another lesson. You're going to go ahead and for this section you're going to add the two phalanges to the side of this. So it's going to look like this when you're done. So we're just going to take these two units that have already been trimmed and you're gonna go that way, in that way, right, like that. So the trickiest part of this is matching up these two points because that's going to give everything a nice crisp point. So you can't do that and you're gonna take a pin and you're going to pin right through the center, that peak. And it's going to also go in right at the top of that point there. So we'll move over to the sewing machine and openness and show you how to sew it. Okay, So we're going to pin this flank easily unit on. And what I like to do is put a pin right in the very center of that peak. And then before he even finished pinning it, I'll flip it over and make sure that it's come through right at the top of that point as well. Can you see that? And that just helps me to know I've got it right in the right spot and then I'll just continue pinning it like that in many, just line up the rest of the piece like that. And go ahead and saw a demo. This is when all of your accuracy and trimming is really going to help because if he's got this trimmed perfectly to be a quarter of an inch above that point right there. This is kinda match up nicely, right? And then we open that up. And once we press this, this is going to look really nice. This has got a perfect point right there and right there. And we're gonna go press this and show you what to do next. Okay, so we've got our center done. These are pressed, I pressed the flank East, the seams are going out towards the flying geese. And you're going to go ahead and look at your instructions one more time. Right now we're working on this unit here, where we're going to add the top and bottom rows. And that's the last step to this block. So it's one more plane, 0s and two of the white corner squares right there. We're gonna do is these guys onto here. So that whether your query we've seen on both sides here. And what that's gonna do is it's gonna give us a finished unit that looks like this. Once you're all done and you press it open. And for this, you're going to want to press these seams in towards the flying geese so that they nestle when you saw this to this. So we'll go do that. So you're seeing, okay, So all we have to do is so these white squares on again, whether a quarter inch seam allowance. And I'm just going to turn it and do this side. Make sure this is nice and matched up. All right, and then you're gonna go ahead and open this and press it, like I said before, you're going to actually press the seams in towards the tail, towards the flying gates. So the muscles in with the other part of the block. And you're actually making two of these pieces. This is the very top row and the very bottom row of the block. So now that we've got both of these rows done, we're just going to sell them to the center of the block and we're going to be finished. So I gave you the scrubbing your instructions and it's going to show you exactly what to do in this is going to go on here. In like I talked about before, if you've pressed your seams in opposite directions, then your seams are going to nestle right here. So you can, again do that trick where you just feel with your fingers. You can feel them this butting up against each other because that seems going that way in this one is going this way. So you're gonna go ahead and pin at the two seams and then also again at the peak of the flying geese to make all of that match. And then you can do the same for this piece. And so these guys, so let's go do that. Okay, So I have matched up my seams here and I've kinda felt with my fingers means you're there nestled together and then pin them. And then we're just going to pin the peak gray here. Another good way to do it is you can kind of fold it back in just visually make sure that those two places are meeting, those two points are meeting. And then you're going to go ahead and put a pinion as well. So we like to poke it right in the point there. And then I can look on the back and the SIM in that center seam so we know it's centered. And then I'm just gonna go ahead and stay on. And again, you're gonna go almost to the pin, but not over the pin and then pull that guy out. So right now you can kind of see that I've got a little bit more fabric here. Then my bottom piece, It's a little rapidly. If it was really bad, that means that my block is out of whack and I need to see what's going on, measure it and maybe take it apart and redo it. But you can just give a very, very slight little poll because your fabric stretched just a little bit. And Neil, your easing this end. You'll, you'll get to the point where you know, how much is too much fabric to ease in. You know, obviously if it's really big and Ripley in and try to do that, your whole block is just going to be all wonky. So, but if there's just a little bit of extra 0s, you can definitely do that. That's actually a really big part of quilting and lot of times your easing stuff in so that it fits just rate. Right? And then you're just going to open that right up. And you're going to see that this looks fine. It doesn't look all stretched out because it wasn't so much that we had to ease in. This'll be much flatter once we press it. But all of our points matched, all of our seams matched. And we're going to just press that open. And we're going to also add our second piece on this site. Okay, so we have pressed these open and everything is nice and flat now and you're going to come and see that all of your hard work, all of your accuracy has really paid off because look at all of these plates. There are just perfect. You have not cut off the tops of them. They all match, all of your seams match. And that is because you spent all the time, I'm dialing in your quarter inch seam allowance and really being careful about your accurate cutting as well. And so because of the accurate cutting and sewing, your blood came out awesome. So I really can't wait to see your project. Make sure you post it in the projects done below the video here. 8. Thanks for Watching!: Thank you for joining our class today. I hope you enjoyed it and I can't wait to see what you made it. So make sure to snap a picture of your finished block and share it down below in the project section.