Oil Painting Realism: Learn to Paint Glass & Transparency | Jaleel Laffitte | Skillshare

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Oil Painting Realism: Learn to Paint Glass & Transparency

teacher avatar Jaleel Laffitte, Painter

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      0:51

    • 2.

      Blocking In

      10:53

    • 3.

      Fine Tuning

      10:02

    • 4.

      Finishing Touches

      7:59

    • 5.

      Final Thoughts

      0:32

    • 6.

      Check This Out!

      0:10

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About This Class

This class is a demonstration on how to paint glass with oil paints. The video is shown in a way where you can see my perspective of the glass subject side by side with the painting demonstration so it is easier to grasp the process. oil paint is one of the best mediums in art and it is great for creating transparent looking subjects. 

Meet Your Teacher

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Jaleel Laffitte

Painter

Teacher

I am an oil painter from Phoenix, Arizona. I paint a wide variety of subject with most of them being still life's of inanimate objects or interesting scenes. I share most of my work on my instagram @thetonedcanvas and youtube channel The Toned Canvas  

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hey, have you ever wondered how someone can pay something transparent like glass and even make it realistic on top of that. Well, if that sounds of interest to you, then this class is perfect for that. My name is Lola feet, and I'm an oil painter from Arizona. And in this class, I'll be teaching you my process on how to paint a transparent object like less. I'll be demonstrating my full blast process from beginning process to middle processes to the finishing touches. Now trust me, this is one of those things that is definitely not as hard to do as it looks. So if you want to come along for the journey with me, then this is definitely the class for you. 2. Blocking In: So there's my setup that you're seeing on the left. That's pretty much what I'm looking at it as I paint, except it's not a picture is really in front of me. And also as you can see, I've already got the background and foreground paint it out so that we can just focus on the star of this video, which is the glass. So to start out. And this is consistent with all my paintings, no matter what the subject, I start from dark to light. That just helps me focus on an area that I want to start out at rather than just hesitating to even get started, not even knowing where to start. So you're definitely going to want to have a process in mind when you get into this. But in my case, dark to light. The beauty of my background being black is that in those darkest areas, I'm able to just use the black mixture that I made and put it there without any hesitation as to what the color is. And also to make this easier, I've chosen a gray surface for the glass to be on. That makes this whole process almost monochromatic. Make, making it way easier than if I had a lot more colors going on. Also, if you were wondering, I am only containing five different colors on my palette for this painting. Those colors are burnt, umber, ultramarine blue, cadmium lemon, which is just yellow, and titanium white. So you really don't need a whole lot to make a painting like this. Now with glass is different than a lot of other subjects because you have to sort of erase the pre-Qin, the preconceived conceptions. You have glass in your mind. Because naturally one might want to thin down their pain or lighten that, line things up so that things look transparent. And you definitely do not want to do that. One of the hardest things to do when painting this is sort of see the color as you see it and not what you think the color to be in your head. So in the picture it doesn't really do it as much justice as looking at an in-person. Because the glass looks a little, little more foggy in that picture than it than when I was looking at it. But just like how I put the black color that I made from the background directly in there. That's what I saw. And I don't want to automatically go lighter just to get the overall frequent preconceived notion that I have for the glass. Also, I don't want to use all one color when I'm doing this or when I'm seeing, when I see a large area, for example, that top top area at the top, the middle to top left where it almost looks like it's that same type of gray. I don't want to use one gray there. I want to use even the slightest changes in value, slightest changes in color that I see, that we'll just simply add to the realism of the whole piece. That's one misconception. There's no one color that you can use and something will turn out looking clear, clear is not reload colors, just simply the color of your whatever is around it, but distorted. And you have to pay as you see to sort of fill in the space of the glass. I would say one of the hardest things when doing this process is knowing where to paint next. I know I said darkest to lightest, but it changes the colors and the darkness and lightness changed so much throughout this that you kinda don't want to pay on random spot in the middle of nowhere in case that will mess up your proportions. This is a large glass object here, and I want things to be accurate. So I tried to keep things connecting. So I start wherever. I've already painted something just to make sure that my proportions are correct and the shapes are in the same spot that they are for what I'm seeing. So this process, this beginning process where I'm just blocking everything in which is what I call it the blocking and process. You need to do is just to sum this up is pain as you see it. Dark to light. And make sure your proportions are right. That's the main objective of this process. And again, don't, don't dilute anything because it's glass. Keep the colors as saturated as you see them, and resist the temptation to then things down. So I'm not going to bore you and continue to do this part. I've showed you the keys and pointers to this process. So I'm going to fast-forward a little bit, passed the blocking and stage. So you can see the important pointers on the next part of the process, which is adding detail. And I know what you're thinking. What detail can add? Glasses smooth. There's not really any sharp detail points or highlights or shadows. That's pretty much the beauty of glasses. How smooth it can be in the transitions and the blending. But in non-blocking end stage, you may have missed some things. You may have not noticed the the subtleties between the colors. So and also the paint probably has maybe absorbed into the canvas and lined up a little or isn't as strong as it should be. Again, we want to focus on painting as we see it, not trying to make things thinner, lighter. So I'm just going to go back in here and paint over those areas that I've painted almost with that black mixture I made. Which is I never, I never use black because black is sort of a, a killer of color. When you use it in paint. I use burnt umber and ultramarine blue and pretty much a 5050 makes to make the black that I use. But yeah, like I was saying, all I'm doing is going back over those areas that were painted in before and making sure there's sharper and more saturated. Now this glass is kinda foggy. It's not like the clearest glass possible. But I wanted this specifically for this class because there's some spots that are pretty clear. Especially those areas that you can see the background clearly. And there's some areas that are sort of have that glass fog. So this has a good mixture of techniques to use or challenges too. Keep your mind on focusing on what you see rather than trying to overcompensate. 3. Fine Tuning: Now if the glass or painting does have like have labels or stickers or anything, I try my best to remove them. This one I sort of kept them on there because these stickers are pretty hard to remove. And I thought it actually added to the aesthetic of this painting, so I kept them on there. Just know that. Again to paint. As you see that sticker on the back there isn't isn't why at all. But in real life is It's like if I were to hold it in the lightest white. But in this way ahead is sitting in my setup. It looked to be this sort of dough. Greenish gray colors. So painting it like they're kept it in the background where it actually is. So I would say that this is one of the more It's not the most time consuming part of the painting because the blocking end part definitely is. But I will say this is the second toughest. I've, I'm sort of breaking this down into three different parts. Blocking in going back and forth to refine everything that sort of subtleties and details. Then of course finally the highlights. So the glass is finally starting to take form. That first layer things were kind of light and faded. And this is just one thing I have to say. During the process of the painting. Especially painting, something like this, which is a glass, glass, metal or anything that this sort of illusion has a lot of reflectiveness to it or has lot of transparency. It's never really going to look like how you want it to or how your subject looks until you get near the end. And even sometimes until you add those final highlights to it. That's something I sort of struggled with well, while doing this. But again, stick to your process. You're blocking in. And then again, dark to light. And then after you block in, again, do your dark to light and refine everything. The more, the more you refine it, the more it's going to go in a direction you like. So things still look, I mean, you can see the glass forming, but things still look pretty flat to me. This is one of those instances where the highlights definitely help give it that depth because it looks see-through, but it doesn't. The best side that comes out towards us, the front of the glass doesn't pop yet till I add those highlights. So I made a class about metal on here and I would say the difference between painting metal and painting glass is probably how there aren't sudden changes in value throughout the piece. For example, in metal, there can be something very dark and very light right next to each other. And often. But when painting glass, there's more gradual changes and gradual build-ups. And there's really nothing super dark ever next to something super light, except for when I put those final highlights and and even in those highlights there's a buildup to the pudding. That's why you see where the highlight is. In the glass and the background there. I sort of put a light gray around that area for me in the painting. Just to give it the depth and to build up to that highlight. Now one thing that I forgot to say during the blocking end processes don't over blend. All that will do is make things murky and foggy, or some artists call it muddy. When it gets to the point where no matter what you do, the color will just turn into this muddy mess and you won't get that exact color that you're trying to paint there. Just block it in as you see it, and then worry about going over it on the next step of it in the refining process. Also, I did paint this all wet on wet, so all in one sitting. It took me somewhere around I want to say four or five hours. Probably four. Which is definitely not long in the painting world. And don't let that intimidate you. The time really flies when you're locked in, you get into the process. So I'm slowly building up those highlights. The glass is finally starting to take shape. I'm just trying to lock in and focus on the little things I may have missed in the blocking in process. I want to make sure everything is as good as it can be. Before we get into those final highlights. Those final highlights are just for when everything else has done for me. And I definitely keep things loose when I paint. I'm not really someone who tries to hyper-realistic with the detail and get out a small pointy brush. So this is a very achievable way of painting. Glass. Is actually rather hard at first to sort of look into the glass and see what small changes in, in darkness that you may have missed or little details you may have missed, any distortion. You may have not included. But over time, it gets, it gets way easier. 4. Finishing Touches: Right now I'm just adding some of the distortion I didn't include when I first painted this, I kind of painted things as if they weren't distorted for whatever reason or maybe I just knew I'd fix it later, but no, I'm just adding in a little more of that randomness in the glass, a little more movement. Definitely right there in the top of that back sticker. You can even see it in this picture on the left here. Some distortion in there that I missed. I'm starting to try to correct that a little bit. Something that may be hard at first to conceptualize is that the painting doesn't look as refined up close than in-person. And sometimes you definitely have to take a step back, especially with glass, because as you can see, I'm just sort of zoomed in here on my painting. Up close. You see all the, the abstraction, all of the brushing with the blending. But when you take a step back, the whole thing looks as cohesive as when you look at the subject as you see it. Overall, this process isn't as hard as you think. One tip that I would give to is that you'll probably want to keep the background and foreground and surrounding area of the glass you paint as simple as possible because whatever is surrounding the glass is what's going to be visible in the glass are reflecting off of it. So again, that's why I chose this simple black background and gray, gray foreground. Again, I'm continuing to add some of that distortion that I missed in the beginning. Because something that you will get a lot with glass depending on the way that you position it is. Some distortion which makes the glass look like lies along with the highlights at the end. Now I'm getting to the point where I'm going to really prepare for those final highlights. So I'm going to go back over that sort of top area where things are gonna get really bright. Also, one other thing that I should have mentioned earlier is if you use certain colors, makes sure that you either can mix that color again or you keep that same color around because for example, the gray fabric that's on the surface, use the same color in the back of the back of that gray fabric is also present in the glass and same with the background. And just luckily for me, the background is black and the foreground is gray. So these colors were easy to duplicate. Then I'm going to fast forward through adding the details of that cork up there and some other details in the foreground. And also the label on the front. And we're gonna get straight to the highlights. So after lots of preparation for this is finally time for the highlights. If the highlight is really bright, brightest thing in the whole canvas, and it's sometimes can even be brighter than pure white paint out of the tube. Well, you wanna do is get a lot of it. And enough to sort of put it on there where you don't need to brush it. You can either do this with a brush or a palette knife. I'm doing with the brush here, so I have a little more control, more comfortable with the breast and the palette knife. But I'm pretty much taking white, titanium white straight out of the tube and putting it on there. So there's a little bit of texture going on. I'm not blending it in, I'm just putting it directly on top where I see it in the subject in front of me that I'm looking at. Here is where I really like abstraction, where it doesn't need to be a smooth highlight. Having it as a clumpy paint makes it stand out a lot. Rather than sort of blended in there. I'm just hitting over all those areas that need it. I'm pretty much whenever you paint something, there's very few areas that need that bright white highlights straight out of the tube. Now all I'm doing is just putting the finishing touches. And voila, here's the finished glass. 5. Final Thoughts: Hey, see, that wasn't as hard as it looked like I said before. And if you found this to be a good class, definitely leave a comment or a good review. And like all my other classes, I want you to try this on your own for your class project. That can be, you know, appending glass, plastic, anything that's transparent, and anything that this class helps you with technique wise. So thank you for taking this and see you again. 6. Check This Out!: If you enjoyed this class and want to see my art work or get to know my style better. Follow me on Instagram at the toned canvas.