Not All Watercolor Paper Is Created Equal — And Your Paintings Know It | Umberto Zanoni | Skillshare

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Not All Watercolor Paper Is Created Equal — And Your Paintings Know It

teacher avatar Umberto Zanoni, Nero di Venere Fine Artist

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro

      2:01

    • 2.

      Materials

      2:50

    • 3.

      Full Test

      22:12

    • 4.

      Fake Cotton Paper

      2:43

    • 5.

      Conclusion

      3:53

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About This Class

Have you ever finished a watercolor painting and thought — why doesn't this look the way I wanted? The colors feel dull, the wet-on-wet technique didn't bloom the way it should, or the paper just buckled and fought you the whole time. Sound familiar?

Here's the thing: most of the time, it's not your technique. It's your paper.

Watercolor paper is one of those topics that doesn't get nearly enough attention for how much it actually affects your results. And with so many options out there — different textures, different brands, cotton vs. cellulose, rough vs. smooth — it can feel genuinely overwhelming, especially when you're just trying to figure out what to buy without spending a fortune on the wrong thing.

That's exactly why I made this class.

We're going to run a full, real-world comparison of four paper types — cold pressed rough, cold pressed fine grain, hot pressed, and a no-brand budget sheet — and we're going to test them all the same way, with the same techniques, so you can see the differences for yourself. No theory without proof. Just paint, paper, and honest results.

The three premium papers are all Arches 100% cotton — one of the most trusted names in watercolor — and we'll put them head to head against a no-brand option so you can see exactly what you're giving up (or not) when you go budget.

For each paper, we'll run four tests: wet on dry, wet on wet, shading, and glazing. These are the techniques that really expose how a paper behaves — how it absorbs water, how it holds pigment, how forgiving it is when you make a mistake. And trust me, some papers are a lot more forgiving than others.

We'll also talk about the difference between 100% cotton paper, standard cellulose-blend paper, and those "fake cotton" papers that look professional on the packaging but often let you down when you actually paint on them. Knowing how to read a paper label is a small skill that saves a lot of frustration.

Whether you're just starting out with watercolors or you've been painting for a while and want to understand your materials better, this class is for you. All levels are welcome — the only thing you need is curiosity.

By the end, you'll know exactly what each paper type is good for, which one suits your painting style, and how to make a smart, confident choice the next time you're shopping for supplies.

Let's get into it!

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Umberto Zanoni

Nero di Venere Fine Artist

Teacher

I just can not live without Art. Art is my way to say everything without a word.
Every single thing I do in my life, is based to be creative, and my focus to create something new, improve myself, and tell some story just with any kind of artwork or photography. A right colour combination, or a mixing techniques, really make the difference. This is the reason you will see me jump between painting, to photography, to print. The only thing really matter is what you feel any time you look one of my artwork. and I really hope to make you positive, happy, and vibrant when you join my Art

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Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. Intro: Welcome back Narrative inner Channel here. I'm really happy because finally I am back after a long, long, long time. As you can see, I changed everything. I moved to a new house. I made a new painting studio, and I'm ready to make some new classes. Today, I like to start not with just a class. Is something I like to explain you for science many times. Every class I made, I strongly suggest you to use a specific kind of paper and was a cold pressed paper. But now today I will show you why, and I made some test to explain you why I strongly suggested you use one kind of paper and why the other one could be not the best for you or at least you can have much more information to choose which one is the right paint paper painting for you. So I'm going to cover this would be a very short glass. Actually, I'm going to cover some different technique on these four kind of paper. I'll show you three, but actually it is four. But one from my point of view, it's really best to avoid. So just jump into the explanation, not a class. I will show the materials I use very very easy, and I will explain everything about the paper. So see you at the end of the explanation or classes, and thank you so much to join me. Sorry if I disappear for a very long time, but as you can see here, I'm ready now. I'm set up to go ahead with new classes. Let's see what happened with the paper now. 2. Materials: Okay, speaking about the material is gonna be quite easy because as I said, these are gonna be common stuff that I usually use. So this is the brand I like so much. Is the Arches paper or arch because it's French. This is rough, so green torchon all of them, the stuff is going to be 300 GSM and 100% cotton, except for one and a hovlaor. So this is the cold pressed, rough. This is cold pressed, but fingerin, okay? Again, 100% cotton, 300 GSM and so. And this is the hot pressed. 300 GSM and blah blah blah, 100% cotton. The last one. I'm not going to show you the brand because it doesn't really matter. I just want to tell you that this is not 100% cotton. But it is 300 GSM. So this is a generic brand. I'm not going to show you the brand because I don't I don't like this paper, so there is no way I can use this paper in the future. So Enough to say is not 100% cotton, but still 300 GSM. And to do the test, I'm going to use just two brushes. So those are the Tintoretto synthetic value, which means squirrel emit. And actually, tin toreto is my favorite brand at the moment for watercolor painting watercolor brush, soft. Okay? This would be some soft bristle and just a generic brush with a hard bristle. Um, this is absolutely no brand synthetic found on Amazon. And this is pretty much the brush I'm going to use to mix the color here and to I'll show you later to pick up some color and work on the color afterwards on the paper. A sponge, this is to clean the brush, before pick up some color, so just to download the excess of water or clean the brush from the pigment, and that's it. We're going to start our test. 3. Full Test: So I will start to reactivate some color. I'm going to use kind of dark color just because I want to show you a very contrast, very contrast on this white paper. So pretty much I will use something like this turquoise. Keep in mind when you set up some color, pick from the palette and go to the mixing area before go on the actually on the actual paper because in this way, you are going to get the right amount of pigment and color and you don't have you avoid the mistake to have too much color on the brush before on the real painting. So to be sure, always some piece of paper, and then you can try and see the color before before paint on your final main work. Okay. That's it. So I'm going to pick up my I show you here probably if you like this could be better. Okay, so I'm going to carry on some water. I'm going to download some water, pick up some color, and just start our test in this way. I'm going to start with wet on dry. And here you can see what kind of paper I'm going to use. So you can see what happened with the same technique with the same test on each different paper. So try something like this. And then switch to the normal cold pressed, so rough. Pick up some more color, go to the hot pressed paper. This is wet on dry, okay? And on the final no brand. I think you can already see the big mistake of a non hundred percent cotton paper. And I'll show you straight through the camera. Can you see this? This is not uniform. And this pretty much is already dry. So not so much you can do right now and it is just a few seconds. Let's say I want to go back here and make some smoothing transition. Okay, let me pick up this hard bristle. So just water, nothing else. Download a little bit of water. Now it's already past pretty much 1 minute. And as you can see, I can still work on my painting and the smoothing the transition is very, very smooth and clean. Okay, I can go ahead and a head and the head, so I can start from full color to zero in a very smooth smooth, smooth transition. And so I can I don't know, go back with another color. Let's say, I can pick up this light color and start from here and go back or mixing, I don't know, a purple or something like that. So as you can see, after let's say 3 minutes, I can start I can work. I can pick up some color. I can actually take tissue deep in the water, go back here and pick up some color if the excess of pigment. So I'm going to make the transition smooth. Okay? Right. Let me do the same thing. Actually, this is going to be almost dry, but as you can see, I can work on it. Again, it is pretty much now couple of minutes. And I can go back with this and make now the transition. Now I'm going to use wet-on-wet. So it's easy to make some smoothing transition. But as you can see here, it's very easy to work on those two kinds of paper. Let's talk about the paper I don't like at all and see what happened. Not so much I can do, okay? You still see here this edge and a massive difference between this part of the first color we put on the paper. And actually, there is no way to get a transition over here. These two kind of paper, well, now this I place too much too much color on the paper, but as you can see here, I can obs I can still work on my color and fix some mistake, maybe, or again, pick up. Let's pick up some pink right here and go back in the opposite way like this. And as you can see, you can blend the two color pretty much with no problem. Here, I think there is no way to do this. I think I think you can clearly see, well, let me switch to the good good brush. So, yeah. As you can see here, this is pretty much a mess. I think you can clearly see the difference between this transition and blending and this one. This edge, this mixing area, well, I think speak by himself. See what happened here because of course, I don't try to do this here because it's pretty much impossible, but I want to show you something. So let's say I want to try to work on this paper, on this color and I don't know, try to fix some mistakes. So I'm going to pick up some water, and I start to work on this part of the paper. Can you see what is going on after a few pass? This this point here is actually paper that is going to broke from the foil from the paper. So can you see here? The paper actually is going to ruin your entire work because this is broken or torn paper. I think this explained by itself what happened here. So I'm not going to use this piece of paper anymore because I think there is no way to explain more than this. The dry here is not uniformed, is actually really bad. You can try to do some smoothing and transition, but you are going to broken the paper even with just a small amount of water. So a non cotton paper is definitely not for me. Let's see what happen if we do something wet-on-wet. So I'm going to wet. An area here, again, another area here, and again, another area here. Before I do anything, I don't know if through the light, you can see what happened here. So I still have some water here, and you probably see it can move. This is almost already dry. Okay. Right. I hope you can see that. So those two still pretty much wet. And now I can do a wet-on-wet technique. This is pretty much already dry and actually, to show you what happened, I'm going to paint first on the hot pressed paper. Right. The amount of water here is too much, so I probably need to pick up something. But can you see how much time and how much yeah, how much time the paper gave me to actually think what I can do if I need to set up another color. So I don't have to rush. And here, I have to be very quick. I have to do the thing in a really fast way. Let me pick up some color here, just because the amount of water on the paper needs to be the right amount. So it doesn't need to be basically soaked. A minimal amount of water can make you able to work very, very quiet, very clean. As you can see here, I'm not rush and not running, I'm not no anxious. I can do everything in the right way. And now with the semi dry brush, of course, here I can do a little bit of smoothing, but I want to show what happened when this would be dry. Okay? Here, of course, is my fault. There is too much water, so I'm going to pick up some excess of water in the brush, download the excess of water and again, put some color in here. So let me extend the smoothing, the transition, and so. Something you can clearly see when this would be dry is this is very common. And this is why for some reason, I like to use the rough paper with the semi dry bristle. If I do this movement, as you can see here, I'm going to get this kind of effect. Maybe you can like, maybe you don't like. I don't know. Sometimes I like this effect. This is not going to happen here, of course, I show you immediately because this is a cold pressed paper, but is a little bit smooth. So as you can see here, the the effect pretty much doesn't exist, okay? Or is very, very, very low. Of course, on the hot pressed paper, this effect pretty much disappear, as you can see. Okay, it's not completely dry, but I think you can already going to see what happened here. So the transition here is quite good. I can add, let's say, some more color here just to increase the three dimensionality of the final effect. Okay? Something like that. With the other brush would be better, of course. But as you can see, let me do things properly. Uh, I'm going to show you in a little bit, even what happen when you use a very good brush compared to a known brand brush, okay? Right. So I think you can clearly see the transition from full color to zero is smooth. There is no edge even here, apart from the effect of the rough paper, but this is something. Again, you already know that this is going to happen, but the transition here is pretty much perfect. Check the hot pressed paper. Can you see here at the border? Okay. This is something I really hate, especially when I have to do a portrait. For example, when you have to do let's say you have to put some contour on the chin on the face. So yes, on the chin, and you need a very smooth transition from, I don't know, the here to the mouth, okay? You're going to get this edge around the middle of your face. And, um, well, I show you with a strong, very hard bristle. Check here. Still, no way to remove this edge over here. The transition here I'm gonna do the same thing here, very, very I'm not gonna be very gentle. Can you see what happened here? And this, I didn't touch this piece of paper for a while now for a couple of minutes. Look. Perfect. Pretty much there is no edge, no transition, nothing. I hope this can explain in the best way why I don't like the hot pressed paper, even if it is the best brand in the world. Of course, from my point of view. This is why I love to use this rough texture for some work, of course. And this one, the cold pressed, the normal cold pressed, fine grain. Last but not least, of course, this hot pressed paper would be amazing if you ink because there is no texture on the paper, so you can pretty much it's perfect for using, I don't know, a technical pen or a fountain pen. Even you can do exactly the same thing pretty much here because there is a little bit of texture, but not so much. The texture is very smooth. Here you can find some problem, but I always use this and you see pretty much all of my work are inked before with a fountain pen or with some technical pen. So from my point of view, I have no problem to use an arch. Sorry, rough. Paper texture. This would be amazing even with the airbrush, because with the overspray, with the airbrush, actually, this kind of paper could be a problem because, again, with the overspray, the if you see this to the microscope, the grain would be touch on top from the overspray of the airbrush. So there is a possibility then you can get some visible overspray and you can have this kind of result and it is not the best. So again, inking, if you want to ink, those two are the best in general. If you want a smooth transition, those are the best. If you want special effect, this one is the best. Keep in mind, if you use the hot pressed paper, you have to be quick. You have to paint very, very fast. And even with wet on dry, sorry, wet-on-wet, keep in mind, you have to constantly go back immediately with the tissue and try to fix the edge. But the problem to me, the problem is the time. You have to be very, very, very fast to use an hot pressed paper. At least from my point of view and from my kind of painting. 90% for I suggest for the people start to paint. So from beginners to start with this one because it's a middleway and is very quite easy to use, okay? But to avoid some problem, to avoid some mistake, to avoid some anxious, be sure, please to use 100% cotton paper. I know it is expensive. You can try to use this if you want to do some exercise, but keep in mind, you're going to pretty much ruin the paper and the work. And when you feel maybe more comfortable, you can switch on 100% contum paper. In the next chapter, it is going to be very quick. Pay attention because even if the cover of the album says is 100% cotton, suntme is not. I remember an album, and I'll show you in the next chapter. I remember I used an album says 100% cotton, but that paper was awful because I feel like have plastic cover on top. So the ink doesn't go actually into the paper. And I ruined two works. I remember. So I pretty much trash all of that album. I hope this is a good test enough for pretty much glazing wet on dry and wet-on-wet technique. And maybe now you have a better idea what happened on different kind of paper just to let you know, I actually love this transition. This is why I still say this is my favorite favorite paper ever, even this one on top. With a little bit more attention, I could avoid even this small edge, but last test just to see if it's fixable because sometimes it is even after almost 20 minutes. No, I was asking too much. No. But as you can see, I can go over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over, and the paper still clean and it's not gonna broken like this. 4. Fake Cotton Paper: So I want to show you what happened right now here because the piece of paper I'm going to paint should be 100% cotton because that was pretty much a no brand. But on the cover of the album, I can clearly see 100% cotton. I clearly remember this paper was absolutely awful because there is a kind of coat on top, like a plastic, like a tape plastic tape on top. And it was really hard to paint on this paper. So compared to the other one, this, I can say I can tell you it was fake. So I actually pre wet the paper, and now I'm going to spread some color in there, and as you can see, the color spread with pretty much no control. It goes everywhere and it's not precise as the other piece of paper gave to me. So totally totally no control of the color on the fake paper. Keep an eye on the center one. Don't mind about the other five, the other four. The center one is the piece of paper you have to keep in mind. So, apparently, the paper is dry, and this is going to happen. I took a piece of paper, a tissue of paper and check what happened. I am completely, totally 100% going to remove the color. So this is very, very, very bad. Check what happened here, okay? This should be dry. So just with a piece of wet towels, wet paper, I can completely remove the color. It's unbelievable. As you can see, on the other piece of paper, nothing happened because everything should be dry. See? How much was disappointed? This should be 100% cotton. So pay attention when you buy something with no brand because this can happen. And when this happened on a painting, when you spend time and skills and color and everything, you're going to be very, very, very disappointed. 5. Conclusion: So I really hope you enjoy everything I explained to you. And hopefully now you got more information to decide which kind of paper is best for your style of painting. Again, I strongly suggest, as I already said during all these minutes together, the two I mostly like, which is the still on the brand Arches, as I showed you in the material, this is my favorite kind of paper, even a little bit difficult if you want to sketch on this one because the texture of the paper is not very friendly of sketching and I don't know, use technical pen, be precise. But to be honest, from my point of view, this is my best. I use often quite a lot, this one, as well. And as I told you, probably, I just got this hot pressed paper but probably I'm going to send back because it's good for the airbrush. For example, I use the airbrush a lot. In fact. Behind here, I'm going to make a mural with the airbrush. But from my watercolor style is not the best for me. I hope you can see which one would be the best for you if you want to try and check what happened with all of these different kind of paper, feel free to do it. I have nothing else to say nothing at the moment, and I really hope I went back to search a piece of clip back in time because I already made this class ages ago, but was not a good level as I hopefully made today. The only important thing when you buy a paper and you see is 100% cotton, if there is not a very no brand, because no one is going to pay me. So Arches AnmullKanson is not going to pay me. But I'm sure if you stick Windsor and Newton, as well, if you stick on this very no brand, you're not going to get prong. If you try to save some money, probably is not really 100% cotton, because I remember once, as I showed you before, was kind of a kind of coat on top of the paper and was very plasticky. So the color doesn't go, doesn't from the paper. So Pay attention because sometimes you can get wrong and you probably think to save some money, but you are going to waste some money. Stick on the brand, and you're not going to be wrong. Okay, thank you again. Sorry about my broken English. I hope everything was explained in the right way for you and you can understand pretty much everything I said. Visually is better than listening. See you on my next class because I have already pretty much ready a portrait to show you monochrome probably. I'm not sure yet. I will decide later. See you soon. Feel free to message me and ask me more information if you need it. See you again. Thank you so much to support me, Cho.