Transcripts
1. Calendula soap intro!: Hi, Welcome. My name
is Deanna Russell. This is my daughter, Keras. Together we make soap and today we're going
to show you how you can make your own cool july
having an opening process. So from scratch, this class is for
intermediate soap makers. So you should already
know the basics of making cultural
system because well, we're going to go over
the basics briefly. We're not going to
explain the basics. You should already know
how to make your own. So it's also helpful if you have a few fails behind
your belt as well. So if you want to
make this so vegan, you can omit the honey
powder that's in the recipe. And if you want to
make it gluten free, you can simply omit
the oatmeal, this bar, and actually all of our bars, they're all POM for you.
So let's get into it.
2. Our love affair with handmade soap: So let's talk about how
we got started with this. We started making soap together. We like to do it together. It's a family endeavor. Yeah, it's bonding
badmouth that we have and it's harder
to find time to do it now together because
she's a lot busier than me. I don't really have much
of a life, but she does. So we find the time to make the soap together
as often as we can. We loved doing it. It's a lot of fun and
it's pretty creative to it grows a lot faster
with two people as well. Yeah, that's right. We divide
up the jobs, don't we? How did we start doing it? So there's a soap making company in the city where
we live nearby. And they have a workshop where
they show you how to make cold process for a
birthday present for my birthday one year. We did the workshop together, so it was myself, my
mother, and my grandmother. We all took the course, we
added together as an event. And then after that, they have the
workshop in the back. And then they also have a store where you
can buy yourself making supplies and supplies. We did the chlorine
in the class and then we just bought all
of the supplies that we needed right away so we
can make so I think we started making soap like
that week as well at home. And that was a few years ago. And they the recipe that
they started us on, it used palm oil in the recipe. And I decided right from day one that when I was
going to make my own soap, it was going to be pumped free. So all the recipes that
we're gonna ever show you, starting with this one are
gonna be palm free soaps. And that's because it's really
hard to just straight up impossible to get
ethically sourced palm oil if this is the inability
question, yeah, yeah. Yes, it does make
the sole partner and a lot of recipes
call for it. And if you want to
use it, that's fine. But if you want an option,
that's really awesome, that doesn't have it in, then just take his
class and you'll find a good solution for that. We took the class regarding
supplies and we started making her own
recipes right away because all the recipes
that I could find, I'll have palm kernel in
which we didn't want to use. The other thing that we
do when we formulate is we only use natural colorants. So that'll be clays. Or Mike has, perhaps I haven't
really used Mike as much. And only natural frequencies with this collegial or recipe. The things that we put
into it, the honey powder, the colonial oatmeal
and color Angela, they're all very, very skin friendly and that's
why we've used them. It's also a very creamy
bar, very creative. It's a nice bar texture. It's one of our favorites. With that, we'll move
on to the next item.
3. The ingredients for this project: So we've just thought it
would be helpful to show you where we actually source
a lot of our supplies from. And I just want to start
off with saying that when you use the handouts
from this class, run it through a soap
calculator so that you can print off your own
copy like this, so that you can make
your adjustments for whatever size of mold that you want to use because you can easily do that using soap calc. So- and then you can also make your own
notes on there as well. So we always use a
sheet protector to keep our sheets of paper soap
free and mucky free. Yes, it just in case there's
an accident, but yeah, those happen in our kitchen.
Yeah. All the time. Okay. So the first thing that you'll need is distilled water. Really, really easy to
get that. You can get it at superstore or
any grocery store. And it's very inexpensive. If you didn't want to use distilled water,
some other liquid, you could use like a carrot juice or an aloe
juice or something like that. But the recipe we're showing you in this class
uses distilled water. So the next biggest ingredient that we use is pumice olive oil. This is the bulk of most of our recipes; is definitely the largest quantity of oil
that we put into any soaps. So it's nice, it's soft. It's a very good bar, is really nourishing
for the skin too. You can get this actually
at the grocery store, which is where we
found this one. If you get an olive oil
that is not pumice, just make sure that you
select that when you're using your soap calculator
because there is a difference on
calculation for that. So the difference between
regular olive oil and pomace olive oil is that pumice is
the third pressing of olives. So it's really, really
bad for cooking. It doesn't taste very good, but it has all of those nice, nice nutrients from the olives, that are great for soap making because they're
good for your skin. So coconut oil is another part of what you'll
be needing to make this. It is what helps to create the cleansing part of the bar as well as hardness of the bar. So we use that as well. You can't make soap without lye. So the technical name for
that is sodium hydroxide. And we usually get this in the bigger buckets because we
go through quite a bit. So if you're just starting, you don't need a
bucket this big. You can easily do one
with half that size. So this is sunflower oil, which is one of the smaller oils that we put into this bar. Actually I don't know that
much about sunflower oil. It's- I like using the sunflower oil because
it's high in oleic acid, which is, provides a
really great skin benefit. And actually the same reason
why we use the safflower. And it says even write
on here it's high oleic, so that's what
you're looking for. And they're just
very easy to work with and they're stable and
they have a long shelf life. And that's two of the reasons why we selected these
oils for this formula. So one thing we also put
it as bar is kaolin clay, which is a white clay. And that helps with
from the coloring. So this soap is a yellow bar. It just makes it a little bit
creamy because the coconut, coconut oil is a very, very, very stark white and
it just softens. Also, it provides a bit
of slip to the bar. That's the other reason
why we use kaolin clay. So of course, your honey powder, that's what you're using. You'll be weighing that up by the gram because it's
a smaller amount. If you have a scale
that goes down to the part of gram that
will even be better yet, we actually use two scales. One that goes down
to the gram and when that goes down to
the part of the gram. We're usually using the scales
simultaneously, because we
measure things together. So I'll be using one scale and
she'll be using the other. And the other thing that
you can put into this - that is nice for the skin into
the colloidal oatmeal is easy to work with us while because it dissolves
and disperses very easily into the oil phase. And the last thing
that we'll show you is the calendula flowers. I usually buy it by the pound
because I use it quite a bit. And we just got that
one from Golden Bough. So we'll leave
description links. So you can access some of these websites and find out
where you can get them. And that's the supplies were
used to make this project.
4. Soaping tools: So I just want to spend
a minute or so going over some of the
things that we use the most and that
you'll probably need something like a bit
to make your soap. So you'll need containers, obviously. These are the
ones that I use to weigh out lye, powders,
things like that. I don't use them
for food at all. They're solely dedicated
for soap making. This little container is super-helpful because of the
pouring funnel that it has. I got this at a local soap crafting supply
store where I live. I'll put the link for that in the class description so you can see how much they cost and possibly they shipped
to your location. But you'll need a
couple of these. So that's the pouring thing. Stirring implements. You need a couple of them. We have several different ones. Some of them we
only use for lye, some of them we
only use for oil. You can use,- don't use metal. They should be plastic or
wood or plastic or wood. These kinds of mixing dishes, you need to have something. So the smaller
ones we got first, I just got it at our
local Home Depot. I have a couple of them. They fit into my
microwave and this is what we melt down our coconut oil and cocoa butter
and shea butter in, in the microwave and it's okay. And also it fits nicely
onto our scale that we use. This one is for making the
bigger batches of soap. And you can't really fit
this in the microwave. And it also doesn't
like to be on the scale because we don't
have a big enough scale. But that's where
you can dump stuff. So depending on the size of
batch that you're making, only different sizes of holding and measuring and
pouring containers. The other thing that
you definitely will need is an immersion blender, something that you
can clean it easily, something that you
can store easily. You can get a secondhand one
if that's available to you. And the other thing that
we, that you do need is a mold. Now, this is one of my
favorite little molds. It comes with a built-in
silicone liner. But it only makes a 2.5
pound batch of soap. So after we bought two of those -and we used them for
actually quite awhile. So if you're just getting
started with that, this is actually
an ideal size to have and it has an
insulating lid as well. So that's my right now. It's my favorite
model even though I use a five-pound mold as well. Now for cutting the soap
after it's ready to be cut. I just want to show you my
first soap mold cutter. Yeah. This is it. This is my.. so I took a trip
to the hardware store, it involved a bit of
cutting with the wood. There's a wing nut here and a sliding thing with a notched
out edge so that you can determine how wide you want your soap bar and then you just use you put the
soap in there. Actually this would this
fits very nicely in there. That's why we got this. And then you just
make your cuts with a knife and it's pretty simple. However, I had a terrible
time trying to cut everything really uniformly and because
I was selling the soap. Well, a little bit
of that is okay. I wanted it to be- the soaps to be more uniform in weight
and size all the time. So that is why I ordered
the next soap mold cutter. This is the one that I got
when I ordered my 5 pound mold. And it came with asoap cutter, which is straight
edged so that it makes - so that when you cut it, it makes the same exact
straight up and down cut. So your variance isn't as much. And it's also fully
adjustable so that you can make it
whatever you want. So that is that those are the
tools that I use the most. And I'll try to put links in
the description so that you can go and look around for yourself where you can
get some of these things.
5. Quick soap safty review: Welcome to the safety
section of our show here I was adjusting
clothing with my gosh. Are you ready? Yes. Okay. Welcome to the safety
recap part of the class. This is actually
quite important, which is why we're going
to just do a quick review. First thing that
carries is going to do is tie back her hair. She's wearing long
sleeves right now, but I'm also going to give her a lab coat put on because that's how we roll
here in our house. There's a story
behind this lab coat. So I am assuming
that the university, once at the bookstore, I was walking past to get
to a class or something. And they had lab coats on
sale outside and I saw them. I thought my mother
needs a lab coat. Now I am the founder
owner of a lab, so I bought her a lot code for
the boroughs all the time. Yeah, I like wearing
it would weaken. So anyway, Social do that. The other thing that you
should have is safety gloves. You can use ordinary
dishwashing gloves or what we call cleaning
gloves if you want to, those are her favorite,
they're a bit longer. The other thing
you could do, the nitrile gloves like that if you can find that or you can use
a regular book like that. Another thing you need to
have just regular glasses, not protected, not enough. You need to have something else. Those are the ones that
she likes to use the most are the ones that clear. Yeah. Easier to see through. You also should be
working and events, especially when you're putting your light powder
into the live water, you need to do it in a well
ventilated areas such as the outside terrace is going to explain to you the order of
adding the mixture together. So go ahead. When you are mixing
your alive water, remember that you have to
put your lie into the water, not water into the live. Also, keep your
kids and pets out of the way when you're making
so they bumped something, you could have potentially
a serious problem. But I think that pretty
much recaps the safety. And if you can handle
bleach competently, you can handle by as well.
6. 6makingthesoapsteps: The very first thing that
you will do is gather up all the items that
you'll be needing before you start
mixing up stuff. The timing on some
things will be tight, so you'll need to be prepared. Okay, let's do this project will start with
making the lie water. The first thing that we
do is weigh out the lie. The inky name for this
is sodium hydroxide. Use a digital scale to do this. I got this skill
years ago at Staples. It's actually a postage scale, and I use it almost every day. Still using the digital scale. Next, weigh out the
distilled water. The reason I recommend using distilled water is
that it is free of contaminants and will provide a consistent outcome every time. Now you'll be adding the
light into the water. We have a spot on our friend
step where we do this. Now you can stir
this mixture until all the light is
totally dissolved. It will take a minute or so. When the liquid is
clear and there are no clumps or crystals,
then it's ready. It will be very hot. You can leave it outside for a few minutes and then
bring it indoors. But be sure that
no animals can get into it and keep an eye on it. This step completes part one. You will need to let this
mixture reach room temperature. You can use this time
to move on to part two. You may have noticed the
garbage bags on the countertop. Since we don't have stainless
steel work surfaces, we need to protect
our countertops. Lie will definitely eat away at things and we've actually had some ellipses with the counter. So keep your counters
protected and keep paper towel close
at hand as well. This is where working in
pairs is really handy. One of us will weigh out the liquid oils while the
other ways out the powders, clays, and in other
cases, essential oils. This little scale is
very handy for weighing out ingredients that
measure parts of a gram. You can find them listed
as jewelry scales, and this one costs about $30. The blue weigh dish you
see here is actually a plastic gelato dish that
I saved while traveling. It's the perfect size
for small amounts. Now you can weigh out the hard
oils such as coconut oil. Some of our other recipes use either shea butter
or cocoa butter. And if we're using those weird
way the mountain out also, if you are using the
collegial of flowers, measure that out now to melt the coconut oil using
medium heat and 32nd increments until it is fully
melted into liquid form. Depending on where you live
and how warm it is that day, this step may take
varying amounts of time. The trick is to do this over
medium heat, not high heat. Whether or not you use the microwave or the
bain marie method. If you try to melt down the
oil too fast over high heat, the unresolved will
not be pleasing. Just to recap the plan here. Number one, make the
whitewater and set it aside, allow it to reach
room temperature about half an hour to an hour. During this time, you can grab a beverage and take
a bathroom break. Number two, you'll
weigh out the oils, the liquid and the solid. You'll be melting down the
coconut oil during this phase. Next, you'll lay out all
of the dry ingredients, including the powders
you're using, as well as the flowers. At this time, you
can get your mold ready if you need to align
it with parchment paper. Do that now. If your mold
that already has a liner, makes sure that
it's clean and dry. Now is also the time to
clear the area of pets, small children, and anyone
who might get in the way. Make sure you are wearing
your safety gear and that you'll be uninterrupted for
the next several minutes. Are you ready? Let's make that soap.
7. Soap batter up!: Okay, So I'm just
getting ready to mix up my actual, soap here, this is my melted coconut oil and this is my other oils
that are already liquid. So I'm going to combine that. Now. I've got my honey
powder, collodial oatmeal And kaolin clay. All my
powders are mixed in this dish. I'm just going to
add them to my oil and then whisk that in. You want to make sure
that this is fully incorporated before we
add the lye mixture. Okay, now, I'm going to be
using this five-pound mold. that I ordered off of a shop from Etsy and it didn't
come with any liner. So I use this, I'm going to try this
for the first time. I don't know how
it's gonna work. But I cut up some plastic
shelf liner paper and I just made myself a thing
to fit in there. I guess we'll find out what
happens with that later. And you'll get to
see that like me. So now I'm ready to add my lye water to my oil
mixture all at one time. And now I start mixing. You can see that it's
changed color and it's, you can tell that it's
going to be very creamy like and that's
exactly what I want. (mixing sounds) If I was using any
essential oils, I would add them now, but this is going
to be scent free, so we're just gonna
keep on going. It's starting to thicken
up a little bit, but it's not ready yet. We're approaching a light trace, but you just have to be patient and wait
for the right time. We're not quite there yet. Pretty soon I'll
be able to add in my calendula flowers. Oaky, we've got a light trace. Okay, I think I'm going
to add in my flowers now. These are dried calendula flowers. And I'm going to
incorporate them. Just at this trace point. We're almost ready to pour. Okay, that's looking good. I'm just going to set aside my immersion blender. Okay. I'm ready to pour it. Now it's looking like some
kind of crazy pudding, but we're not going to eat this. I'm just going to burp it, just
to get out any air bubbles. Then I'm going to cover it with a plastic wrap and then
I'm going to put the lid on and then I'm going
to insulate it in a little towel. Okay.. Then I'm going to tuck
this into bed and I'll check on it in a few
hours later today. I can take off my safety glasses, I'm going to keep this on for
a little while until I finished carrying it
to its little spot. And that's how you make
the calendula soap.
8. The big reveal: Okay, let's just have a quick
little check on our soap. It's insulating and a towel to keep it warm- and I'll
take off the lid. Okay. You can see that it is
going through the gel phase. I actually want that to happen. And I don't want
it to get too hot, but it looks like it's gonna do all right. So I'm just
going to tuck it back in. And I'm going to wait
for it to cool fully. It's actually still
quite warm and it's a couple of hours
after I made it. I'm going to let
it cool overnight and I'll check on it
again in the morning. So now we've just been
checking on a soap and we feel like it's ready
to come out of the mold. So you're going to watch me on unmold that and then I'm
going to cut it. So what I like about this
particular mold is that it has a fully collapsible system so that you can get everything
out really easily. So it just totally disassembles. Et voila! It's ready to come out. Now to get this out of here. Remember I told you this was
the first time I'm using this (plastic shelf) paper
liner that I made. I'm hoping to get more
than one use out of it. So I'm going to be careful on
how I take everything out. It's pulling away easily. Which means that now is the
right time to take it out. So I actually cut this into strips and then I attached
it using packing tape. So if I need to slit this open, I can easily do that and then reattach it using
different packing tape when I need to. See that? It
just comes undone. So that's the freezer paper. It was actually good experiment. I'm happy with how this worked, and I'll probably do this again. So I can easily wash that and
reattach it and reuse it. So excellent. The next thing I'm
gonna do is put this into my cutter. Very carefully. One of our piece here, the bottom
should just slide off. Okay.
9. Cutting the soap: Now on this cutter I have marked already where the lines
are that I want to cut on. And so I'm just going to
make sure that that's in place and tight enough. The first cut that I make because it wasn't
totally square, I'm just gonna make it- do an end cut, just
to square it off. And that's what the soap looks like. Okay, so I'm just
going to finish cutting this and then when I'm done I'll show you what it looks like and I
will see you in a bit. You might be wondering
why I'm putting them into chunks like that. You will find out just a minute. So once I get this all cut, I'm going to take it onto
my soap curing rack downstairs and it's going to cure for probably close to six weeks. And after that time, then I can wrap
it up and take it to the market to sell or
give away or use here. And that is how you make honey, oatmeal and calendula soap.
10. One more tip: I don't know. Happy soaping! We hope that you've enjoyed
this class with us. We've had time. We've had fun making both
the soap and the class. I hope you can tell, we like to have fun together. And while there are serious
aspects of making soap, it can be really, really
fun and it can be a good family activity if
you can survive it together. So now you have a really good formula and recipe that you can
use to make your own soap for sensitive skin that is palm free and you
can also customize it to make it vegan
and Gluten-free. Yeah. And this is what it looks like. This is what ours turned
out like. This isn't the size of bar that we
normally cut it to. This is just one of
the little tidbit said I've had leftover
when you trim. Yeah, So to recap, what we did in this
class is we showed you- we did a a safety
review to make sure that you're safe when
you make soap. yeah. We did a quick review, overview of the supply
ingredients that you need to make this
particular recipe. And then we walked you
through how we make it. So yeah. Well, you were the one on camera, I was behind the
camera in those. Yeah. So now you know how we do it. You might have noticed that
we don't use a thermometer. We've actually never
used a thermometer. We weren't taught
using a thermometer. Yeah. The important part
is that your lye is pretty well at room
temperature and that all of your
oils are liquid. So if you have any solid
oils, they just need to be melted. So you don't need to
worry about hitting a specific temperature of your ingredients
when you're mixing. This should just be the same
when you mix them together. So that's a quick
final tip to end the class and join us next time. We'd love to bring
you more soap classes if you can all take it. That's it. Thanks for watching. Bye for now. Happy soaping!