Transcripts
1. Introduction: Do you enjoy expressing yourself with your
clothes and accessories? Are you loving the
embroidery trend, but wishing you could
personalize it, then this class is for you. Hi, I'm Kathleen Lyons. I'm an artist and
digital marketer based in Nashville, Tennessee. I graduated from Audubin
University with a BA in Art and started my career
as a graphic designer working outside of Chicago. Today, I spend my nine to
five as a digital marketer. I spend my nights and weekends pursuing my creative career. I sell my work through pronounced man sites such
as Society Six and Pubble, as well as my own Etsy shop. I primarily focus
on hand lettering, illustration, and
surface design. And now all of those
skills have just seamlessly transferred into
my embroidery practice. My journey into embroidery was inspired when I became
pregnant with my daughter. We had a ton of gender neutral
clothes and from my son, but I wanted to find a way
to make them uniquely hers. It turned out to be
super easy and so satisfying to turn something gray into something
sweet and grily. Adding embroidery breathes
new life into fabrics, whether it's clothes accessories or the traditional
fabric in a hoop. It's such a fun and unique
expression of your taste. Today I'll be showing a
few ways of how to add embroidery to your existing
clothes or accessories to not only express
yourselves but upcycle some of those tired
phase into new loves. What are we waiting for?
Let's start stitching. I'll see you all in
the next lesson.
2. Class Project: Class Project Time. Okay, for this class, your project is going to be to embroider a piece of clothing or accessory of your choice, and then share an image of the finished piece
with the class. Use a pattern from the project resources or create your own, apply the pattern to your piece
of clothing or accessory. And then embroider
the piece with your unique selection
of colors and stitches. Lastly, you'll share
your final project with the class by uploading
to your project section. Feel free to include
any detail shots of your piece process or even behind the
scenes if you'd like. If you share your
project on Social, be sure to use the
hashtag arts stitches so we can follow each other
there as well. Key takeaways. Share your piece with
the class by uploading an image to the project
resources section. Please feel free to share your process photos and any behind the scene
clips with the class. Those are so fun to see
how everybody works and gets to choose their own
colors and unique stitches. The more we share,
the more we learn. And be sure to tag your work on social if you share
there as well, I'd love to be able to follow. Let's use hashtag arts stitches. I'll see you on the next lesson.
3. Supply Suggestions: This lesson, we'll be
talking all about supplies. Recommendations are in the
project and resources section, but feel free to
make adjustments. This is ultimately
your creation. Come along As I show you a
few of the things that I use. First suggestion on the
list is a light board. Mine is here. Unfortunately, I couldn't find this exact one. I think it's been discontinued, but I linked to similar one
in the project resources. This is totally optional. You can also hold your
fabric up to a window. Works just as well. But really
this is just for tracing. You light up the board,
you'll be able to trace your pattern onto
your piece of fabric. The second item on the
list is carbon paper. Grab it, little
noisy carbon paper. And then you can have have little stencils
that come with it. I'd like the set that
I have from Amazon. This is an easy way to trace. I would just make sure that
you are really careful about where you put your stitches
and try to cover this hoops. I get a package with
lots of different hoops. I like to work with
different sizes. It also depends on if you have
a large piece of clothing, you want to do like a
back piece on a jacket. Or if you're working on just
like fabric in a hoop is the five by five is my favorite for that, but I
have a link there. There's lots of different sizes. Choose what works best for you, if you're only working on shoes or like a pouch
or something like that, you may not even
need the hoop Use as needed and get the size that works for the piece that
you're wanting to do. Next is one of my favorites. I have the call these, they're heat erasable pens. I have the same ones linked. They also come with little
fills. These are great. This is actually erasable pen, so even if you're just wanting a pen that you can erase,
these are wonderful. But the best part about this is if you want to free
hand on a piece, you can just draw onto
your fabric and stitch. And once you're done,
just use a hair dryer. I think you'll probably even
put it in the dryer too and just let the heat
erase your lines. It's really fun, especially
if you're free handing. I really love using that option. If you're not into free handing, this will be your best friend. This is my favorite. It's water soluble, literally, you can print onto it. You stick it onto the fabric. I actually, I used
it for this one. You stick it onto the
fabric and then you stitch over top of your
drawing or the print, and then you just
rise it with water. Do a little bit of massaging, but it comes off pretty easily. Another option, if
you're not wanting to draw, you're not
wanting to trace. Just print it out and
stick it on scissors. You can use anything,
but I really love these. You can actually take these
on flights or travel. You can also take needles with you. I've
learned all of this. Dmc is usually my go to. There's a lot of different sizes and it depends on your fabric, it depends on what kind of
thread you're working with, if you're working with floss,
if you're working with yarn, be sure to check them out. Juan's, Michael's, any
kind of hobby shop, we'll have them so you
can go and see them in person and compare
it with whatever thread you're wanting to use. But we will need a needle, so make sure you get those. And then floss, floss, thread yarn, whatever
you want to use. I actually take mine out and
I put them on little cards. And then I try to remember to
write the number on there. So if I run out of it,
I know which one to get. Don't have to do that. It's a lot of extra work, but I really enjoy seeing it
in a nice, pretty package. And it helps when I'm
going to look for colors, to be able to lay them out together and not
get them tangled. Pick whatever color just speaks to you, especially
with your piece. Think about fun colors, things that might pop against
what you're working with, Just a favorite color
palette that you have, or something that you think
really works with the design. That's what's going
to make it really uniquely yours. Have fun. And if you have any questions, be sure to type them in. I'm happy to help
throughout the class. Key takeaways. A full
list of recommendations is available for supplies in the project and resources
section of the class. These are suggestions,
big caveat. Feel free to explore options and create a combination
that works for you. If it's the water soluble and you're printing or
your free handing, you're choosing yarn or floss. Make sure that it just speaks to you and what you want your
piece to say about you. I'll seeg on the next lesson.
4. Pattern Transfer and Hoop Setup: This lesson, we'll learn
about transferring patterns and setting
up an embroidery hoop. There are various ways
to transfer a pattern. We talked a little bit about it. With the supplies, you
can transfer it to fabric with carbon paper
or using a light board. You can also just stick
it up against a window and trace it with sunlight
too, if you prefer. You can simply free hand onto your garment with a
heat as full pen. Once your pattern or
design is transferred onto your fabric,
you may need a hoop. It'll depend on the fabric. Some are easier
to handle without the hoop. Use it as needed. What are we waiting for?
Let's start stitching, right? And then you can see straight through there, way you
don't have to cut it. You can literally just
lay this over top. So if you're going
to do a fabric and a hoop or something
like a T shirt, this is a really
easy way to do that. And then I'm literally
going to use one of my heat erasable pens to
draw over top of this. And this is our pattern. Like our sampler pattern, this really is
just for practice. Don't worry about being
perfect on this one. And then I can actually, I filled it in to show that it's going to be a satin stitch, but you can just outline
the rectangle here. And same for the dots, these will be our French knots. This is the first sampler
that will really just give us a good basis to do some straight stitches
with a zigzag, some back stitches with the
line satin stitches here, and then our French knots here. Alternatively, if you want
something that's cute, this is a great
one to put in like a fabric coop or on
a T shirt pocket. This is just a little rainbow. Same idea, you can
just trace over this. We have transferred
our first pattern. This is going to be good for
us to go into our practice. But first I want to show you a couple other ways that you can transfer onto your fabric. Another great way that, again, we can use
the light board. You can also just think of this light board as a
window if you want to. You could have taped the
pattern onto your window and then put this overtop
the fabric over top. Alternatively, you
can use carbon paper. Carbon paper usually
comes if you get a set that comes with little stylus
that you can draw with. I'm going to pull
one of those out. We're going to put the carbon
right down onto the fabric. We'll go with this one. You're just going to lay
your pattern on top, so you're going to
have your fabric, your carbon paper, and
then your pattern. We're simply going to press in and draw across these lines. All right? And there you can see it really faint
when you turn off the light. It might be easier. You
can see this created, just transferred a very light, almost like a pencil mark. I mean, essentially what it is a couple of different ways, this heat erasable pen, we can heat up and
it will disappear. The carbon paper is very light, but sometimes you can't
get it all the way off. Pick the right one for you. Now that we've got it
onto a piece of fabric, let's put it into a hoop. I think I size all these for 55, which is my favorite hoop size. If you're going to do
something on a wall, not too big, too small,
easy to travel with. The hoop has this
little tightening, get it here and then
you're going to loosen that to release
the inner hoop. Then you're going to put the inner hoop
under your fabric, and then the larger hoop
will go over top of it. So we've kind of sandwiched
our fabric in there, and depending on how you're
going to do your piece, if it's a piece of clothing, it really doesn't matter if you're going to leave
it in the hoop. I would suggest going ahead and making sure that
you've got it centered. This is just for practice, so I'm not going to be too particular about
that right now. Okay. So now we've got this
on here and I'm realizing that I did not show you the
other way we can do this. What I did here is I printed out same files that are in
your project and resources. These are just simply printed
onto the actual stabilizer. Super easy. I
learned in mind that I have to have like
the fabric side up. Make sure you figure that out
with your printer for now. I'm going to do the same thing
with one of the sampler. So I'm just going
to cut this out. This is by far my favorite
because it's the easiest. You're literally going, I don't
know if you can see this. We're going to peel this apart. Here we go. So you can see the backing
peels off of here. Throw this away. Then you're literally just going
to stick it on there. My son's favorite
activities, stickers. And then the same thing
where we're going to take the inner hoop, put it under, and then our outer hoop, and we're going to
stick that over top. The great part about this one is you won't have to use heat, you won't have to try
to wash or erase it. Literally, run this
over some water, give it a good little massage,
and it comes right off. This is an easy way if
you don't want to draw, you don't have to trace, print it out, stick it
on, you're good to go. Key takeaways, pick the transfer method that
works best for you, even if that means just
drawing onto your fabric. Using embroidery
hoop is optional, but it can't be helpful
for flexible fabrics. Fabric stabilizers can help structure fabric while
you're stitching. Experiment and see which
set up works best for you. I'll see you on the next lesson.
5. Learn the Basic Stitches: This lesson we'll be learning
a few basic stitches guides with examples and diagrams are available under the project
and resources section. Follow along as I
show you step by step how to complete these
foundational stitches. Now we are ready for
our first stitch. We're going to start with
this little zigzag here. This will be very
similar to what we do in one of the lessons
with the denim shorts. You're going to take it
behind your hoop and simply push through and
pull that right on up. Now the straight stitch, just literally straight stitch, we're just going to go
straight back down. We're going to
follow that line of the zigzag and go straight, I'm actually going to go down to this guy here and come back up and then go here and back. Then I will come
back the other way. Fun to use. We'll
be using them on the shorts and on
a piece of denim. Now I'm going to come back
through and do the other side. Okay, and then we're done. Next we're going to go
through the line of the top line and this is where we're going to
practice our back stitch. We're going to just then
just choose a length, I'm thinking like a four inch and do your first
straight stitch. So you're just going to
go up and then back down. Then this time we are going to go about the same
distance ahead of it. This is where I ended
my last stitch. I'm going to go
the same distance and push my needle up there. Then from there I'm going
to pull it through. As I mentioned,
you're going to go right back down into this hole. That is your first back stitch. Go ahead and pull that through. This is a great stitch
when you're outlining. If you are going to be doing any hand lettering,
like for letters, it's really fun to do the
cursive hand lettering and use this stitch with it. It's also really
fun for florals, if you're going to be doing
an outline aesthetic. It's just really versatile. That's a great stitch.
You'll use it everywhere. I will go ahead and
finish these up, but you're literally
going to keep going about the same distance
over and over again, and then just coming
back into the same hole where your most
recent stitch ended. Okay, so we are wrapping up
this backstitch, there we go. So we're going to start
the satin stitch, which is going to
be this bar here. Because I did print this,
I have the full bar, but if you just did the outline, you're going to be starting
from the corner of your rectangle and then just
going parallel to that, back down on the other side. It feels like a straight stitch. The difference is we're going to continue doing that
side by side by side. I'm going to come
right next to that, as close as I can get and be
parallel to my first stitch. And then directly across, go back down underneath. This is going to start
creating a little color block. Okay, we're ready for
our French knots. I've gotten a fresh thread. I finished this up. You can see I used the floss I'm using as like a ingredients. We've got a nice
little break here. French knot is next. French knots take some time, but I promise they're worth it. They're beautiful. They're
a great way to fill in shapes just to add
little embellishments. So we're going to
go ahead and start with this first one on the left. We can go ahead and pull your needle through
from the back. Then we try to show you this. Best I can remember, there are diagrams and explanations in the
project resources too, but I like to do two. I'll do it again. You're
going to wrap once twice, then I'm going to pull this
so it's perpendicular, and I'm going to keep it taut. And then I'm going to push
my needle back through, basically right next
to where we came out. And I'm going to move my
thread here so I'll get caught a little bit harder
to do well demonstrating, but I usually keep ahold of
this thread through then. I still like to keep this to the side and then I'm
going to let it go. We have our first not, you can play with the
thickness of these, the tightness of them. Lots of variations
as far as sizes. Let's see, you going to do 23. The more you wrap your needle, the larger your knot
is going to be. Same for the floss. If you've used three
strands versus six strands, that will have an
impact as well. Sure, we pull that through key takeaways. Fax stitches are versatile, you can use them for lettering outlining and even
filling in shapes. Satin stitches help easily
and quickly fill shapes. French knots will
always be hard relax. It'll take time to feel
confident with them. I hope you enjoyed
learning these. I'll see you in the next lesson.
6. Straight Stitch on Denim Shorts: This, Lisa will be using the
straight stitch to dress up. Some denim shorts. Let's jump in. Welcome back. We are going to start this
one with the straight stitch. So I have my needle
threaded and you can see I actually went ahead and use that little rainbow sampler
down here on the bottom. I'm liking this red
pop on the white. That's what I'm going
to use for this one. This is going to
be really simple. Feel free as you're going through this to
get more creative. There are so many ways
you can dress this up. Whether you're doing
straight stitches, you can do zigzags. Just think about where you
want your pops of color. What parts of the piece
that you're working on, the anatomy, can you play
with with the sampler? I use this cuff to make the
rainbow coming out of it. Just think of things
like that that you might be able to
play with right now. I'm going to do just
this top pocket. I'm going to come behind and I'm not going
to use the hoop. This is pretty sturdy. I think I may if I were using more like a legging or an athletic type of
fabric with this denim, I don't think it's
really necessary. I'm not going to use the hoop, but I am going to come
straight through here, come up the back. Then I am going to go
straight back down. Maybe just two stitches
then go back through. And be careful, I just
want to make sure that I'm going the pocket and through the whole I don't
want to sew my pocket shed. Be careful if you are
working on the pocket to inadvertently do that. Okay. So I've got my first straight
stitch. I'm going to count. I'm using the same as I said about the
anatomy of the piece. I'm actually going to use
this to my advantage. So I'm going to go 12 and
create kind of a pattern, But I can get it,
so I'm going to use the same hole,
pull that through. Then I'm going to go 12, push that right on back through. As I'm doing this, this is even going to spread
out my stitches. I may go back through and
add a stitch in between. Do this for a little bit and then I will catch up with you. After I finish my red. I've reached the end of
my pocket here and I am going to show you another
way to clip this off. I want to keep
this pretty tight. I'm going to cut this and then separate because I
use the full six here. Think about that too. How thick you want
your thread to be. I used all six. I'm
going to just cut this. I'm going to pull these apart. Probably do 3.3 here. I'm just going to take those and create a knot to finish it off. Then I'll keep it a
little bit smoother instead of a big bulky no, I have my first
stitches in my pocket. I'm liking this
with the rainbow. But I think I'm going to go back through and add a second color. I'm going to do yellow. I
have my new color threaded. I'm going to come back
through here and just go in between my
original red stitches, which will create
another pattern. But it should be pretty
easy just to go right in between head counted down two, so this will be on the one. Again, I'm trying to go
with what's already here. I've got my second color in and I've decided to
go a little rogue. I am liking these French knots outside of the ringle
I have down here. I think I'm going to
mimic that up here. I'm just going to
go about middle. I'm just going to draw a few areas and I'm going
to try to species evenly. I'm going to do it, let's just do I need to take those dots and
make them French knots in the same pink color
that I have down here. I have finished both
of my pockets and added a little extra bonus
with the French nuts. These could also be
beats, would be fun. I'm feeling like
I want to include these straight stitches
in the teal color. So what I'm actually
going to do, let's come over here and
I'm going to add it to this little inner pocket key takeaways. Keeping in subtle is
a great way to start. Simple stitches can add a splash of color
and personality. But remember to get creative. Think about other
ways to work with the existing stitches and
play with more techniques. I'll see you in the next lesson.
7. Straight Stitch on Canvas Shoes: This lesson, we'll be
using a straight stitch to give some color to a plain
pair of canvas shoes. Let's jump in, we are
back to our shoes. I went ahead and sketched
out my points on here, so this one is done. You can see a little splash
color around the eyelids. Then I had already
marked this one. But I realized as I
was doing the side and looking at the shoe
that's already complete, I didn't have quite enough
of my little ticks. So I'm going to go back
through quickly and add just a few more to keep it consistent with what
I already had going on. Give me just a minute, I'll rock through these. Okay, there we go. I'm all set on my guides here. Again, this is a
heat erasable pen. I will be able to just
blow dry this once it's done and all of these
marks will be gone. I have my red threaded
and ready to go again, we're going to be working
with a straight stitch. This is exactly what we
were doing on the shorts. I'm going to start
feel free again, working with what I keep calling
the anatomy of my piece. I'm working with the
eyelets and just making these little sunburst which you can get more or less
structured with minor, minor, more fence blats. If you want to go for
something more symmetrical, definitely feel free to do so. I think I like
mine a little more haphazard because
it is hand done. I want to have that hand feel. I'm going to just
scroll through here. We got our first stitch again, This takes a little more to push through than
some other fabrics. I know that Joanne's and
Michael sells canvas shoes. I got these on Amazon and they may be just a little too thick. Be careful when you're getting fabrics that it's something that you think you
can work with. I think I must have
built up my dexterity because this isn't as
hard as it used to be. Again, we're just going to go around whatever
pattern you've done, you could do zigzags, whatever feels good to you. You can even do some
things on the side here if you wanted to do running
straight stitches, whatever feels good
to you, go for it. But for now I'm just
going to go around this let and then switch colors and we'll keep making
our way down the hot. I'm ready to go on
P. I'm going to go to my next eyelid again, push through from the back, just straight back down. These are all straight stitches. I get my first stitch in, We're going to come back down and just repeat this
over and over again. Now, you may have noticed
that I'm going off script a little bit on
some of my stitches. I'm trying to mix
it up a little bit. I may not be on exactly my
sketch marks, but again, because I made these marks
with a heat erasable pen, I can make adjustments as I go and know that I
can clear those out. We're done with the pink. I'm going to mark that off and get ready for
the next color. I have pink done
something I just learned. I started my pink up here
because it's my beginning. No, a little too. I think it'll be okay, but
it's close to the top. I would suggest starting a
little bit further down. For my yellow, I am going to start here instead of at the
top, if that makes sense. That's going to keep my
knot from interfering. We're laying down the
top of the canvas. We're just going to
go around again, all straight stitches
for our next color. We have one more
and we'll be done back for our last color. So I have my tal threaded here. Let's start a little bit again. Starting towards the
top, make sure my not, it's a little more hidden
straight stitch around again, up through the back.
Down through the front. Now ready for one of
my favorite parts. We are going to erase our lines. Here we go, go. Simple as that. So those lines that were marked with our
pen are now gone. Key takeaways. Varying
stitch length can give more character to
your simple compositions. Using the anatomy
of the clothing or accessory is a fun way
to spice things up. But continue to get creative, think about ways to work
with the existing features of your shoe and play
with more applications. I'll see you on the next lesson.
8. Backstitch on Sweatshirt: This lesson, we'll be
using the backstitch to add hand lettering
to a sweatshirt. Let's jump in again. I'm using the water
soluble pattern, so I just printed it from
the project and resources. The same file that's in there. I printed that onto my
pattern and then applied it. Now for this one, I am
going to use a hoop. I think we've got it again. You're going to put
your inner hoop under your fabric and then we're going to put this
outer hoop over top. I'm just trying to make
sure that this is taught, which is why I'm fighting it. And then we're going to tight ma closed so it'll stay in
place as we're stitching. You could put this in a
different spot that's easier. The sleeve I've seen a lot
or even like right at the. Cough. Those are very cute. Again, make this yours or feel free to tag
on just as I am. We've done some
pretty bright colors and I'm going to stay
in the same palette. I think this one I'm going
to go a little more subtle. I'm going to do the yellow on this beige cream sweatshirt. I'm going to go ahead
and get this threaded. I'll meet you back here
to start stitching. Okay. I have this threaded and back on my handy dandy needle minder. I'm going to come
through the back. I was thinking about
where I want to start. Honestly, you can
start anywhere, but I find my lettering is
the most natural when I start and follow the same path that I would if I
were writing it. I'm actually going to start up here and I think I'm going to come down
and loop around here. And then I'll come back to get the circle part of
the. Let's do that. I'm going to through the back and I'm going to go straight through that
stabilizer because again, this will just rinse away. We get to go right
over top of that. Don't worry about it if
you're totally covering it. If you're, if you're free
handed something again, if you're using a
heat erasable pen, you don't have to worry
about that either. We're going to start
with a straight stitch and then the back stitch let
be practiced in the sampler. I've made my first stitch and I'm going to try to
match that size. I'm going to go ahead of
my first stitch ends here. And I'm going to come about
that distance ahead of it, push through the back,
through the front. And then I am going to go back through the same
hole that I ended, that first stitch that
is our back stitch. Okay. One more thing
before I speed this up. Please, please please wash your fabrics before
you start stitching. I'm thinking that as I'm
working with the hoop, it will definitely relate what you've worked on if you
haven't washed your fabrics, because you'll have new stitches and then your fabric will shrink and it's just
a bad scenario. Please make sure that
you wash your fabrics. A lot of times what
I'm working on are things that have
been well loved. So it's not as
much of a concern, but if you're working
on a new piece, or if you're doing
fabric in a hoop, I would still
recommend washing it, ironing it, making sure
it's nice and flat. Let's speed this up, and I'll see you
in a little bit. I've wrapped this part here, I'm going to come back up and
do the circle before I move on to the rest of the word,
I want to keep this clean. I think I'm going
to tie this off. Now, let's see, on the
back side of this, I'd like to keep
this pretty tidy, especially because
it's going to be sitting directly
against my skin. I'm going to click here again. I'm going
to start where I would naturally be writing, so I feel like I normally
come around here, so I'm going to start there. Okay, Now we've
got urge complete, so I'm going to continue this for the rest of the first word and I will catch up with you on the smiley face, seeing a bit. I have finished my first word of the patterns
and it says good. I am actually really liking this ombraan
here and the fact that I just landed for the smiley
face with a darker yellow, I'm going to pick back up there. I'm just going to put
in straight stitches. The smiley face is
totally optional. I just thought it was fun
after I hand lettered it, made that shape. I'm going to add these in. I'm coming through the back and straight back down for
our straight stitch. I'm just going to
do these side by side to make this
little happy face. Now, I may come back
to this later and do, we'll see what it looks like
or may I just keep it all? This is an ombre, almost tone on tone. It's a little more subtle than what we've been working on. I'm getting to a point where I'm going to need to move my hoop, but I am going to finish
this out quickly. Okay, back here, we're
going to just start down the V and continue
our backstitch. Okay, we just finish
the last stitch, so I'm going to cut this off, wash off the stabilizer, but that's about it. So I've washed and
dried this and now my water soluble
stabilizer is gone, which just leaves the hand
littering on the collar here. Let's see, the Mbre
looks pretty cool. It's a little more tone on tone, kept it pretty tidy on the
back side so you can see what it looks like on
the inside another. We can't wait to see
what you all made. Key takeaways. The
back stitch is so versatile you'll
literally use it everywhere. And being able to
personalize your own clothes or even gifts for others is a great way to save on trends. Remember to get creative.
The satin stitch is another great way
to add lettering to initials and apparel. I'll see you on the next lesson.
9. Satin Stitches on Canvas Bag: And this lesson will be using
satin stitches to create a fun design on a
canvas pencil bag. Let's jump in. Welcome back. I am going to be working on a
pencil bag for this lesson. I have a pack of these. They're from Amazon. There's a ton of canvas
bags you can get. This would also work
on a canvas tote. But today I'm going
to be working on a pencil bag. This
is a great gift too. If you have another artist
in your life or someone who works office or
travels quite a bit, this is a great gift as well. I started mine. Remember to use the transfer method
that works for you, whether using carbon paper or a light board or the water soluble transfer
that you've printed on. I printed on mine. This. I got a head start. You can see a little bit of
what we're going to be doing. Like I said, use the transfer
method that works for you. I use the water
soluble stabilizer. I printed this and
I just stuck it on. I've been using the same thread. I'm going to be using
this teal again. I'm going to go
ahead and get this threaded and I'm going to use my handy dandy
needle miner for this one. Again, I'm not using
a hoop for this. This one's pretty easy
to handle without it. If you do need it or
prefer it, feel free. Again, this is ultimately for
you. Whatever works best. Whatever workflow,
whatever materials, experiment, figure out
what works for you. By all means you can follow
along exactly as well. Now I have my needle threaded. When I don't need it, I will be putting it over here
on my needle Er. But we're going to go through
these two pieces here. I've done the same
thing all across. We're just going to be
finishing this up together. I'm going to start with this one again, this is the satin stitch. We did straight stitches
in the last two lessons. In this lesson, we will be
doing the straight stitch. This is going to come
through the back, it's just like a
straight stitch. I'm going to go
down through here. Then that pretty much marks
us for the rest of it. I am going to fill this shape
by going right next to it, coming up, then as
close as I can, sting parallel and directly
across, right back down. And I'm going to do that
to fill out the shape. Now the shoes, and the shorts, and the T, or the sweatshirt. We're not quite as
long as this one. Please don't feel frustrated. This one will take more time, partly because of
the pattern and also because of the
type of stitch. So take your time, enjoy, and fill in your first shape. Okay, now if you get this stuck, I have done this 1,000
times working on this. If you get it stuck
on the zipper, you really just have to loosen it and move it back around. It will come off, I promise. I've done it, like I said about 1,000 times working on
this particular piece, this may be easier on an actual tote bag versus the pencil bag that our
bag without the zipper. But I really do love
this as a gift. I'm actually thinking
I'm going to use this as my new
embroidery pouch. So when I'm on the
go, I can just throw my needles and my
threads in here. Again, I'm just
filling out the shape. I'm going side by side by side and just hitting
this outline. Because I use the water soluble, I can just go straight
over top of it. And then we're going
to rinse this. When we're all done and
the pattern will come off, we have our yellow ready to go. I'm going to come back and fill the center of the sky again. You can either go vertically or you could fill
in horizontally. I think this one I may do
vertically. It's super small. But just to give it
a little contrast, since these are more horizontal, again, there's no
right or wrong. It's more about how you want the flow to feel
with your piece. Again, you could experiment. If you don't like it, you can
always cut it and redo it. This one I think
is going to fill in really fast this way. And then also again, I like the contrast, like
having, I've done it here too, where I've gone horizontal, then I've gone vertical and
just giving it more flow. Again, this is going to
fill in really quickly. I've done it in a couple
of places, like here, I've gone vertical
with a horizontal, Done here. Play
with what you like. I prefer that movement, but then I also
have some that are, this one is in line
with each other. Play around, see what you like. Can always change it later, or you could do another bag. I honestly think I might just leave it at those two stitches. Maybe one more of no, I think I'm going
to leave it like that that filled
in really quick. We're going to move
to this last piece and then we will be all
set with our pencil bag. Okay, since area had
my yellow thread, I'm going to stick with that. And we're going to finish
out this last shape. Actually, I think I may grip this a little
bit differently. Again, if you need a hoop,
feel free to grab one. I've found that this
one has been easier for me to manipulate
without the hoop, but whatever works
best for you is fine. Okay. I just cut that down
the center that at times helps me keep things even
and keep it straight. But I am just filling
in this outline. Again, the satin
stitch going side by side to fill the space. Again, take your
time. This one does take longer than some of the other projects
we've been working on. Let's finish up our shape again, I'm going to start
at the bottom. I make my first stitch is
essentially a straight stitch. And then I'm going to follow
that through side by side by side as a satin stitch
to fill this shape. Okay, It is all finished,
see different colors. Really enjoying how this ombre, the gradient thread worked. I'm getting different
colors of yellows and the blues into
the teal. It's nice. I'm going to take
this needle minder off now for the fun stuff, we're going to take
off this pattern. So stabilizer, we're going to take off this
water soluble stabilizer. You can already see it's
going to be pretty easy to get off even as a sticker, but let's go put it under some water then we're going to have to let
our pencil bag dry, but we're almost done. I have also washed
and dried this, just to get there
was a little bit of bleeding from my thread
that is all gone. Now again, we'll
come back to this and adds more beating
and embellishments. I wanted you to see
progress. Key takeaways. The back stitch is
quick and easy but still adds variety in
combination with other stitches. Satin stitches are
great to fill shapes. Think about other ways you can use these in your
other projects. Remember, get creative. This is a perfect
piece to think about, adding fabric, paint,
and bees as well. I'll see you in the next lesson.
10. All Stitch Pattern on Ballcap: And this less, we'll
be using all of our stitches to create a
composition on a ball cap. Let's jump in so
we're onto the pat, and this is a good thing to
include all of our stitches. I've gotten a head
start here and I do have my thread ready to go. I started with a satin stitch for the petals and
all of my greenery. I'm using straight stitches to create the vein of the leaves. I have French knots
in the pollen here. I'm using a back stitch here
through some of the stems. Okay, so we're
back with our hat. I have gotten a head start. I applied my soluble
stabilizer here. I printed out the pattern. Again, this pattern is in
the project and resources. You can print those
out, you can transfer it with a light board or against the window, whatever
works best for you. Also, feel free to draw straight onto your garment if you have your own
design in mind. I place this on the side here. You can place it
anywhere it would work on the front
or even the back. I like the way that this
followed the curving of the hat. I've decided to stick with
this side of the hat again. I got started on this side, we'll work on this
side together. On the right side, I have been
using a hoop for this one. This is a three by three,
you can do it without. I found it a little
bit easier to have this structured for
me while I was working. And I am pulling this,
there's an inner part here, I'm pulling that
down, it's a little too thick to get into
the hoop with that. So just be mindful as
you're getting your set up. Okay, you've got that on there. And again, use it as needed. You may be fine
having a flexible. I just like to have a
little more structure and just keeping it a bit
more tap while I'm stitching. Start here. I'm going to
start with the petals, and again, we are working
on our satin stitch. Okay. I've gotten the first half done here and I'm going to
come back to my center. I usually like to
split my petals down the center first just to give myself a boundary,
more of a guide. And I'm going to come
back through and do this other half just
to make sure that I'm staying symmetrical
as much as possible. This is hand, no need
for it to be perfect. But I do like to have
a little bit more of a structure as I'm working. Okay, I have my
second flower done, all the petals, and they mentioned we were going
to go into the leaves, but this looks funny to me
now without the center. So we're going to go ahead
and fill in this pollen. What I've been doing for
these are French knots. I typically start in the
middle and then I work my way out and around
against the French knot. You're going to come
through the back, wrap it two to three times 12, actually two, then go back down basically right
where you came out. Not the same hole, but
really, really close to it. Pull that back through. Here's my first knot. I'm going to do the same
thing I've done over here, and I'm just going
to fill the space. I finished my pollen here, and I'm actually going
to start with this stem, this floral piece here. I still using the
full six of my floss. And I'm going to
do a back stitch. I'm going to come
through the back, then I'm going to
go straight down the starting with
a straight stitch. Then again, about the
same distance to come up and then back through the same hole that I ended
the previous stitch. And that will start
my back stitch. I'm going to do that all
the way through the stem. And then we'll add
some French knots for these little floral pieces here. Now I have this stem here, complete with the back stitch. I'm going to fill these
in with French knots. Again, we can do
French knots here. You could also do
a satin stitch. If you're not feeling
totally comfortable with the French knot just yet,
don't worry about it. Fill that in with a satin
stitch. And same for these. You could also do
a satin stitch for these if you don't want
to do the French knot. I'm going to continue
with the red. Then once we're done here, I'll move on to the
upper part of the piece, they turned out to be more
like a little berries. Now those are done. We are going to pop back up here to the
top and finish these stems. Thinking, probably
French nuts in here. You could also do
a satin stitch, and then we'll finish
off with our leaves. I've gotten to the
point where I'm having trouble
keeping my hoop on. I tried to adjust it,
but I'm just getting a little too full here
with my thread. I'm going to go free and
just work on these stems here through then
I will come up, sure, about equal distance through that same hole that I made to end
my previous stitch. Continue that for the. Okay, so we have all of our stems done. I'm going to come to
this very top leaf here, and I'm actually going to start this more of a backstitch. I'm going to come up through
the top and I'm going to go right into the same
hole where the stem. Then I'm going to fill this
in with a satin stitch. Same for all of these
leaves and then I'll show you the straight
stitch for the vein. I finished out all
of my leaves here. I'm going to come back through and add the straight stitch, and that's actually how
I'm creating this vein. Look, on these other pieces, I did split this one. This is only three
of the strands. I have it threaded
my other half, there are six strands. I took three of them and
put them on my needle. And I'm just going
to come up through the center here of this leaf. Super simple straight stitch,
just straight back down. And this layered look will give, it will look more
like it has a vein. So it just adds a little more
character layer just to me. It finishes out the floral. Okay, So we are about
to wrap this up. I have my leaves done well, the veins that I wanted
to put in and now I think I've decided
that I'm going to fill these in with
a satin stitch. Okay, Here it is,
we're all done. Fill those out again. Think as you go
through, if you want to follow this step by
step, please feel free. But if you want to
make the French knots, if you want to make the
center satin stitches, however you want to
change it up to make it same with the colors. Feel free with your color
and your placement. Don't forget, you could
put it on the front side. You could even put it
over the back here. Whatever it is that feels
good to you. Go for it. Make it yours. I
am going to wash this or at least soak it so
I can get this part off, and then I'll give you a
quick little peek at it all. Nice and finished key takeaways. By combining all
of our stitches, it gives the composition more texture and visual interest. Adding contrasting subjects to apparel like floral
with a ball cap or even camo is a fun
way to express personality and
remember get creative. Think of a composition
you like to create for an accessory
and keep practicing. I'll see you in the next lesson.
11. Bonus! Paint and Bead Embellishments: That is time. In this lesson
we're going to go back to our pencil bag and add some flare with paint
and embellishments. It's totally optional,
but it's a fun, I've got my beds
ready, let's jump in. Right now, we're
going to come back and do a few embellishments. You can see I heard have
my paint pen in my hand. I've also got some beads here. I was deciding between
just adding a little bit of texture with these, can't really see that too well, but it would just give it a little more dimension if I were to spread
those out in between. But I'm more pop, so I'm going to go with this purple beat that I have here. I'm going to use my pen so
we can put these anywhere, but I am going to use my paint marker to create
poca dots through here. It'll serve as a
backing for my bead, but also help me with placement. You could also just draw
on here with the paint. Don't feel like you have to
do something super tidy, and I'm just going to fill
in some of these spaces. Feel free to get creative. You can do zig zags and curly cues and draw
anything you want. Everything. You can
use lots of colors. I really love these
Posca markers, but I think you can use any. Think there's also fabric
paint that you could use. I'm just going to use
this because this is what I have and what
I'm used to using. But I am going to slip a little cart in here to make sure it
doesn't bleed through. So I'm going to go ahead and start marking where I
want to put my leads. You'll see that
made a nice little Now I'm okay. I will go through
here and I will pick where I want to add beads, and otherwise I may leave a few, just a blue polka dots. Let's get this going. I already have my needle
thread, a sneaker at that, I chose a color that no matter what bead
I was going to use, I was going to use the
same color as the canvas. That way I'm really focusing on the bead and not so
much the thread. I think I definitely want to
put one in this middle here. I'm going to come up
through the back. Let my bead fall all
the way down here. And then I'm going to
come in right behind it. I want to stamp
this up, I think. So let's pull this
through there. We've got our first bead.
We've got one right here. I'm going, I think I'm going to tie these off one by one just to keep it clean. Okay, ready for the next one? I'm going to try
to space these out because I like this
variation so I am going to keep some as just paint and others where I'm
going to add a bead. And probably some of
them where it's blood, a little bit like maybe
I didn't make the best. I'll try to cover those. I'm going to come up
through the fabric, this is essentially
our straight stitch. I'm going to thread that, and then I'm just going to
come straight back down. I am tying these
off by each bead just to keep the back of
them a little bit cleaner. You don't have to go
to see a couple here. I'll go ahead and
finish out my beads. This is officially done. I did end up mixing
some beads, some paint. You can see in between there
really simple polka dot, but to give it a little extra
flare and different layers of dimension between the beads, the embroidery, and the paint. Think about what you'd
like to do with your free, you can also just leave this as. But I thought this was a fun way to show you that you can add beating and paint to your
clothes and accessory as well. Beating, I'd be careful with for anything you're washing a lot. But pencil bag was perfect
for this key takeaways. Paint is a fun way to add more color and levels to
your embroidery projects. Beads are a fun way
to add dimension, but may not be the
best for all pieces. Think of accessories
that get washed a lot. Maybe not the best, but pencil
bag perfect. Get creative. Think back on pieces
we've already worked on or pieces that
you want to work on. Make sure to include
some paint and beads and just continue to
grow your practice. I'll see you on the next lesson.
12. Final Thoughts: Thank you so much for
joining me today. I'm so happy you were able
to join me for class. Embroidery is a great way to breathe new life
into your fabrics and it's just a
great way to upcycle your clothes to be
expressive and fun. Remember, embroidery
is super adaptable. Get creative and think of ways to apply it to your
existing pieces. Even what we've
done in the class, or new accessories and
compositions you want to work on. What adds with beads,
paint different stitches. Just think about the combinations
with your color combos, what makes it uniquely you? Be sure to post your
final pieces in the project section
and keep on stitching. I'd love to see more
and more of them. Remember to use the
hashtag Artsy Stitches and please review and
follow me on skill share. I would love to
hear your feedback and suggestions for
additional classes. I'll see you in the next class.