Modern Blackwork Sampler: Intermediate Embroidery | Becka Rahn | Skillshare

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Modern Blackwork Sampler: Intermediate Embroidery

teacher avatar Becka Rahn, Artist & teacher, paper & fiber art

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro

      3:15

    • 2.

      Project Options

      2:12

    • 3.

      Materials & Tools

      7:36

    • 4.

      Tied Herringbone Stitch (Part 1)

      21:13

    • 5.

      Toroko Stitch

      20:55

    • 6.

      Fly Stitch

      10:04

    • 7.

      Guilloche Stitch & Maltese Cross

      22:09

    • 8.

      Brighton Stitch

      13:31

    • 9.

      Cloud Fill Stitch

      13:59

    • 10.

      Plaited Feather Stitch (Part 1)

      13:47

    • 11.

      Rice Stitch

      20:53

    • 12.

      Plaited Feather Stitch (Part 2)

      3:45

    • 13.

      Tulip Stitch

      11:48

    • 14.

      Tied Herringbone Stitch (Part 2)

      5:31

    • 15.

      Laced Wheel Stitch

      16:11

    • 16.

      Foliage Stitch

      7:16

    • 17.

      Butterflies (Backstitch & Algerian Eye)

      29:38

    • 18.

      Finishing & Wrap Up

      3:08

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About This Class

Learn a new collection of stitches to add to your embroidery skills. This sampler steps a little off the beaten path, featuring under-used, more unusual stitches you won’t find in a traditional embroidery sampler. It's not cross stitch, but these stitches all use a similar counted thread technique to make geometric, repeating patterns. Blackwork was popular in the 15th century, often shown as the decorative edges of collars and cuffs in painted portraits in many museum collections.

In this class, you’ll create a modern blackwork-inspired sampler featuring 14 distinct embroidery stitches stitched in perle cotton thread—including tied herringbone, toroko, fly, brighton, guilloche, plaited feather, cloud fill, tulip, maltese cross, rice, foliage, laced wheel, algerian eye, and back stitch—each chosen for its shape and visual impact when worked on a grid.

You’ll learn how to stitch on even-weave aida (gridded) fabric to achieve a clean, geometric look. The thread choice is intentional, moving beyond standard DMC floss to highlight structure and the character of each stitch in variegated and multi-layered colors. As you stitch your piece, you’ll have space to make your own color and pattern choices. The finished sampler works beautifully framed, or as a pocket, panel, or feature piece in a larger project.

What You’ll Learn:

  • Reading a counted thread embroidery pattern 
  • Fourteen unusual embroidery stitches that work well on an even weave fabric
  • Combining colors within an individual stitch style
  • Counting and strategies for placing stitch motifs
  • Techniques to break complex stitches into smaller components
  • Follow along with step-by-step instructions for every stitch
  • Options to customize your color and stitch design choices

Perfect for

  • Advanced beginners or more advanced stitchers
  • Stitchers who love structure, rhythm, and a little geometry
  • Anyone who wants increase their stitch vocabulary to include some more unusual and unexpected stitch patterns

This isn’t your traditional sampler of basic stitches—it’s a mix of bold, graphic techniques that build something striking as you go. Each stitch brings a new texture, a new pattern, a new way of seeing what embroidery can be.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Becka Rahn

Artist & teacher, paper & fiber art

Teacher

Hi, I'm Becka.

I am a full-time teaching artist who works in a micro-studio in Minneapolis. I work primarily in fabric and paper, specializing in textured designs from cut paper illustrations using recycled papers and embroidered surface designs. One of the traditions of fiber art that inspires me is the idea of making practical and every day things be beautiful as well as functional. Why else do you embroider on a handkerchief or hand weave a kitchen towel when a scrap of old fabric would do the job? Because that's a tiny bit of art that makes you feel good.

As a teacher, rather than being a specialist in one area, my specialty is being able to teach a beginning class in just about anything related to fabric or paper. I love watching the light bulb come on for someone as ... See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Intro: Hi, welcome to Modern Black Work sampler. Hi. My name is Becka Rahn. I'm a full time teaching artist based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. I specialize in fiber and paper art, kind of a mixed media intersection between those two. So I use a lot of fiber art techniques like embroidery, and I also combine them with paper and other kinds of more non traditional materials. In this class, we're going to do a non traditional style sampler, instead of kind of the classic embroidery sampler where you do a satin stitch and a running stitch. This set of stitches are all based on a gritted pattern. So they are worked on a kind of fabric called an even-weave, sometimes known as cross stitch fabric or aida cloth. And these stitches are basically designed to look really awesome on this kind of fabric. Now, the style of embroidery is based on a really ancient technique. It was popular in the 15th century. You can find examples if you look in museum collections like this one from the Victoria and Albert Museum. Black work is sort of known. Its distinctive style is that it is repeating patterns of kind of geometric shapes that are stitched in black thread on a white background. In this class, I'm going to take a kind of more modern approach to that. So we're going to shake it up with using different colors and combining colors into stitches. But they're going to be based on that idea of repeating patterns that can fill a space. Traditional blackwork embroidery was done mostly with two different stitches, the backstitch and one called the Holbein stitch. Now, here's a fun fact, at least I think so. The Holbein stitch is actually named for the painter Hans Holbein, because in the portraits that he painted from that same era, he was so detailed that scholars can recognize the stitch from the tiny detailed parts of his painting. So they named the stitch after the painter. In this class, we're not going to stick to just two stitches. We're actually going to use 14 different stitches. Some of them are based on those traditional stitches, and some are more modern interpretations. I wanted to add some more stitches that kind of keep the same style are still inspired by black work, but let us kind of explore different ways of combining color and using variegated threads. You don't have to have a lot of embroidery experience for this class. It's helpful if you've, you know, stitched a few things with the needle and thread before. But otherwise, you can just jump right in. Every lesson has got step by step instructions for how to do every single stitch. We'll talk more in the next lesson about what your project is from this class and how you can choose kind of different options to make the kind of project you want to do. 2. Project Options: So let's talk projects. There are kind of two different ways you can use this class. So option one is to complete a sampler like this. This is what I'll be stitching through all of the lessons and kind of completing everything together as one piece. So each lesson, we're going to cover each of the different stitches, and I'm going to talk to you about color choices and placement so that you can create kind of a cohesive sampler of all 14 stitches altogether. Now, if you don't feel like making a whole sampler, then you can pick and choose. You can jump around between the lessons and choose the stitches that you're really interested in and stitch small samples of just that stitch and maybe try filling, bigger spaces with it. So that's also an option. So you can think about the projects for this class, kind of like a choose your on adventure. If you want to create a sampler, then I'm going to walk you through how to do all of those different stitches and make kind of one cohesive piece at the end. If a sampler isn't really your style, then choose option two, where you can just focus in on one particular stitch. For instance, this is the Brighton stitch. You can stitch a sample and then use it to create your own projects. Like this book I finished this morning. This is the Brighton stitch stitched on the cover of just a little book that I made. And you can explore things like that using your choice of stitches from this class. So I wanted you to be able to kind of pick the way you want to use this class and what makes the most sense for you. The most important part of choosing a project, I think, is sharing your project. We would all love to see an example of what you've decided to stitch in the project section for this class. Not only is it fun to show off what you've accomplished, but it's also really great for everybody to be able to see the different kinds of fabrics and threads and color choices that you make to help everyone have more ideas, more creative things that you can do with these stitches. So be sure to share your project in the project section when you're done stitching. 3. Materials & Tools: All right. Let's talk tools and materials. No matter what style of project you are going to stitch, you're going to need the same materials and tools to get started. So let's talk first about the fabric we're going to stitch on. This is a piece of what they call even weave fabric. It's also called Ida cloth or cross stitch fabric. That's what I'm going to use to stitch my samples. There are other kinds of embroidery fabric that you can use that have the same gritted texture to them. But I think this pattern is really designed to work best on Ida cloth. Now, the fabric that you want to look for is what they call 11 count. 11 count means that there are 11 squares in every inch. If you use an 11 count like I do, your finished piece is going to turn out about 6.5 by 5 " if you're going to stitch the whole sampler. So you can use a size fabric that's a little bit bigger that has fewer squares to the inch than 11, but I wouldn't go any smaller. And the reason for that is that some of the stitches we're going to be making, if you stitch on a smaller size fabric, the pieces of the stitches will just be too small and they'll be really difficult to stitch. So ideal is an 11 count. Now, you'll notice I've stitched all of my samples on this nice navy blue. You can use any color that you want to. This is kind of turning black work upside down by doing a dark background with lighter colored stitches. So you could stitch on a white or a cream if you want a more kind of traditional appearance. Okay. Now that we've covered fabric, let's talk threads. Now, I made a choice to stitch all of my samples in what they call a size eight pearl cotton. Now, this is a kind of embroidery thread. I love the kind made by Wonderfll. That's the company that makes it. There are other ones out there. And this is a size eight, and that is ideal for this 11 count fabric that we have. Reason I chose pearl cotton is because you stitch this thread as all one thread. It stays together like this as opposed to a cross stitch floss or embroidery floss, where it is made up of six little tiny individual threads. A lot of embroidery works with that, and it's a great thread. But the stitches are going to be a lot more crisp and distinct, as you can see here when we're working with this one more solid strand of thread. You can absolutely substitute in DMC floss if that's all you have. I would use three of those small strands of thread together to make up a thread that's about the same size as this Pearl cotton. Now, I have put in the supplies handout for this class the colors that I'm using for exactly the sampler that I'm making in class. But just to kind of give you a little breakdown, I decided to use three variegated colors and three solid colors for this. And you'll notice that my colors are very much the same value, which means none of them are much lighter or much darker than the others. So you're looking for about six colors that are about the same value, the same lightness or darkness. You also want to make sure that whatever colors you're using are a good contrast to your background color. So I didn't use any blues in my sample here so that they would really show up against that blue fabric. Color choices are, of course, up to you. You can do this with more or fewer colors if you want to, but six is kind of what I balanced out the pattern to be so that you get a nice distribution of color across the pattern. Okay? So pearl cotton thread. You will also need a cross stitch needle. So even though we're not doing crossstitch, a cross stitch needle is kind of the ideal one for stitching this because cross stitch needles have a blunt point. And that helps us kind of guide the needle through those little holes in the fabric we're going to stitch through versus splitting it or splitting the thread. So that kind of ball point, that rounded point on the needle is really helpful. I've got a size 22, which I think is great for working on this size of fabric. A couple of other optional or maybe not so optional things, you'll need a pair of scissors. I think it's helpful to have a pencil in some of the stitches going through teaching each one. I have marked things on my pattern in pencil, and I think that can be really helpful for helping you count and decide where things need to be. You can see this one has got some things all marked up on it. Okay, the last piece you'll need is the pattern. This is in the download section that you can print out. You don't have to print it. You can look at it just on your screen if you want to. But again, I think it's helpful on some of these to be able to make some pencil marks as you're counting. So the pattern is meant as a guideline. Not every single line of thread that you see on your piece is going to appear on the pattern. This is just helping us to be able to place all of the stitches. One other thing I'll point out on the printed pattern up here in the top corner, I've given you a little section to create a color chart. And so what I have done is after I chose my colors of thread, I just cut a little piece of each one and taped it down here next to the little color block. And we'll talk through how I'm using the color blocks when we get into the lessons. But basically, this helps me remember that anytime I see a yellow square, I'm going to use my yellow thread. I made mine kind of match, but you might be doing completely different colors. So I think it's helpful to have this color chart, like, attached right to your pattern piece. So as you're choosing your colors, you can just tape down a sample there, and then you've always got a reference to look back at. The last optional material you could use is an embroidery hoop. A lot of people like having that to hang on to as you stitch. I personally don't like working with embroidery hoops. They just kind of get in my way. So you'll see I'm just stitching the fabric. Now, this Ida cloth is pretty stiff, usually, and so it's pretty easy to stitch on with or without a hoop. So that is an optional thing up to you if you want to use. One last thing to note, I also included a close up photo of my finished piece. Sometimes it can be helpful to have a photo to look at as you are stitching your stitches to make the connection between what the finished stitch looks like and what you see on the pattern piece. So you can also download that JPEG and have that reference photo that you can zoom into to help you with your stitches. Okay, that covers all the materials you'll need to do the project. If you are going to stitch small samples and just pick and choose your samples, then of course, you don't need as large a piece of Ida cloth. You can use just scraps of what you have around. So let's jump into the first stitch in the next lesson. 4. Tied Herringbone Stitch (Part 1): Okay, our first section to stitch is this first block in the top left corner. I thought that would be a great place to kind of get our pattern established. And this is a tied herringbone stitch. So we're going to work this one in two sections. It is in two colors. And you can see here, I have filled out my color chart with my thread colors just with a little piece taped down. So the thing I will point out is the pink squares here. I don't actually have a pink thread. I didn't pick one, but I'm using this one as my pink because there's a lot of that kind of pink purple in it. That's how I decided to match it up. So I'm going to look at the colors that I want for my tied herring bone. And you absolutely can break these rules and do these in whatever color you want. Reason that I kind of selected them out and spread them out is so that when we get done with the whole thing, the colors are kind of balanced, and they are spread out kind of throughout the sampler so that you don't have a whole bunch of green in one section and a whole bunch of yellow in another one, so that they're kind of evenly distributed. So that's why I did it the way that I did. Alright, so for the black part of the stitches, I need my yellow, which is going to be that color. And then I need the orange to do the gray part of the stitches, and that's gonna be my orange. So these ones are going to match up pretty close. The other colors I can set aside for right now. And for the most part, on all of these stitches, I'm going to start with the part of the stitch that's in black first and then work through the gray ones. So the black part is usually the foundation, kind of the part that we lay down. So I'm going to start stitching in yellow. So I'm going to grab a piece of thread. And I got to find the end here. It's always the hard part, right? There it is. And I'm going to cut a piece of thread about 14 " long or so, and I'm going to thread my needle. When you're working in cross stitch, especially, I have heard a lot of people really discourage knots and not making a knot in your work. Um, there are a couple practical reasons. Like the holes in this fabric are pretty large, and so a knot can pull through. For this, we're not doing cross stitches. And so I'm going to break that rule and tie some knots because I want these things to stay. On some of the more dense stitches, sometimes you can just catch the end of the thread like underneath your stitches on the back side, but not all of them work that way to be a very secure thing. So I'm just going to tie knots. So I'm gonna make a knot in my thread. Okay, before I move ahead, I just grabbed a piece of white foam core, which I'm going to set down on my table. I realized on camera, you can see the holes in the fabric a lot easier on the camera if I have something really light colored behind it. So that's why there's a pause in the video there. I just swapped that in. So we're going to start in the top left corner of this pattern, and our thread is going to come up right there on that top left corner, and we're going to kind of work our way across from left to right and then kind of go down this block. So I'm going to bring my needle up because I know I cut this piece about an inch larger on every side than my finished design is going to be, I'm going to bring my needle up in a hole that's about an inch away from both sides. It doesn't really matter, where you start this. You're just establishing where that top row will be. So I'm going to bring my needle out there that's about an inch from either side, and I'm going to pull it through. And then we're going to do just a little bit of counting. We're going to do a herringbone stitch. And so a herringbone stitch is going to go from top left down here to the right, and that's the first stitch that we're going to see. So it goes if I'm counting squares, it goes over one, two, three, four squares, and it goes down one, two, three. So we're making ones that are four wide and three tall. Okay. I'm looking and I'm always counting where the hole is in the fabric. I'm going to count over four holes, one, two, three, four. I should have four squares basically between where my thread comes up and where I'm going to go down, one, two, three, four, and then I'm going to go down three, one, two, three, right there, over four down three, and I'm going to pull through, and that's the first part of my herringbone stitch. So we would stitch it the same way if we were stitching on regular fabric. We just don't have kind of the markings of that grid to follow. All right, so now the second stitch of Herring bone, if we look at our chart, it goes from the bottom left here up to the top right. It's the same size stitch. It's going to go over four and up three. But we're going to come back one, two, and bring up our starting thing. I'm going to go two to the left. So this is where my first stitch went down. I'm going to go back two to the left, one, two, and I'm going to bring my needle up right there. Two to the left. Okay. And now I'm doing my same size stitch. I'm going to go over four, one, two, three, four. And this time I'm going up three, one, two, three. Like so. There's our first pair of herringbone stitches. Now I'm going to keep going in that same pattern. My next one, I'm going to go back to the left. At the same top edge. So I've gone two squares back to the left. I'm going to pull it through. Now I'm going to go over four and down three, one, two, three, four, one, two, three. And as you get a few stitches going, you'll be able to see where the lines are like the line and the pattern. They're all going to align together. Okay. One more time I'm going back to the left, two squares, one, two, and bring it up. Now we're going back to the right again, one, two, three, four, and up, one, two, three, so that it's lining up with those previous stitches. And I'm going to continue working my way across. So back two and pull through over four, down three. One, two, three, four. Yep. I got it in the right place. Okay. So if I refer back to my pattern, I have one, two, three, four, five stitches that are going to lean kind of towards the right side. So I've stitched three, one, two, three, so I don't go too far. Next stitch and one, two, three, four. Go back to three, four. There. Okay, now I have one, two, three, four, right leaning stitches. I want to do one more that leans to the right. So I'll do mine that leans to the left. One, two, three, four. Okay. And my last right leaning stitch, three, four. So. Okay. Checking my pattern one more time. I've got one, two, three, four, five, that lean that kind of go down towards the right. And I need one more stitch, that's going to go back up again. I've got one more stitch at the end that kind of points back up back and over 41 more time. All right. That is one row. We can compare here of herringbone stitch. So we're going to do three rows like this. You can see if you come down the chart, there's another row that's exactly the same that starts at the same line where the last one left off. It's one, two, three squares down from that top corner and I'm going to go all the way across again. And then do that one more time, three squares down and go all the way across. Now, I like to stitch the herring bone from the same side every time, doing the rows the same direction because the overlap of the threads will change if you were to stitch going back the other way. So I'm actually going to tie a knot here and then start my next row again from the left and work to the right. So tying a knot on these kind of stitches is a little bit trickier because there's not a good place to anchor your thread into. So I do a couple different things. If there's a stitch nearby that I can slip my needle underneath and tie a knot, I try to do that. Basically, make a stitch backwards towards one of these stitches and I try to mimic what's going on in the front. I'm actually going to slip my needle underneath this stitch down here on the backside. Now I have a thread that's nearby, and now I can tie a knot anchoring it into this thread. We can tie a knot the same way we have done in a lot of different embroidery classes. I'm going to slide it through underneath that stitch one more time and pull until I have a loop. And then I'm going to slip my needle inside the loop once and inside the loop second time. And then holding the fabric down, I'm going to just gently pull, pull, pull, and that should pull a knot right down close to the back of the fabric. I don't want to pull so hard that I distort the stitch on the front side, okay? So I'm using my fingers to kind of help stabilize that, right? And I'm going to trim off with a little tail. And I'm back to the other side. So now we're going to repeat the same thing and do a second row of herringbone stitches. So I will get you started. I'm gonna tie a knot again. And my second stitch starts at the same kind of line as those first ones, but it's one, two, three grid squares down. So it's in the same row actually where those last ones left off. Okay. You can't really see my needle there, but that's where I'm coming up. Okay? And I'm basically copying. Whoops. I went a row too far. I came up in the wrong space. Let me fix that. It is good to double check. Alright, there we go. Now it's in the right spot. Okay? Now I'm going to do the same thing I was doing before. I'm gonna go over four, three, four, down three. Then I go back to squares on that bottom side of the stitch. And I'm going over one, two, three, four, and up three, which will be in the same hole as a previous row of stitches. Those are going to share a hole. So it gets even easier as you stitch these because you kind of can see right where the stitch is going to go. You don't have to count quite so much. All right? Same thing. I'm going to go back to that is actually in the same hole as another part of the stitch from the row above. One, two, three, four, and down three. Okay, back to up meeting that previous row of stitches. Now I go to the left two. Okay. And I just keep stitching that same pattern all the way across matching that first row. Okay. There are two rows. We're gonna do one more. I'm just gonna grab another piece of thread and speed up the video a little bit and stitch one more row exactly like this, just below. Oh Okay. There is my finished Herring bone section. Now we're going to do the tied part of tied Herring bone. So we're going to switch colors to the orange thread or whatever your orange color is. And for this stitch, we are going to make basically their cross stitches, but they are kind of on a diagonal, so they're like a plus sign. And we're going to do that over every intersection of our herringbone stitch. And I like to stitch these kind of one row at a time again, and I do one stitch at a time. So every time your herringbone stitch crosses each other, makes that kind of X shape, we're going to stitch one of these, like, plus signs over top of it. And I try to just kind of establish a pattern that I do these in. So I'm always going to do my horizontal stitch first and the vertical stitch second so that they're consistent the whole way. So I'm going to come up right one hole to the left of that first X, and it's actually 12 grids across and one, two down, if you want to count grid lines, but I'm just coming one stitch to the left, and I'm going to go across two squares right across the center of that X. Like so. And now I'm going to do the same thing top to bottom. I'm going to come. Actually, I'll go bottom to top. I'm going to start at the bottom, bring my needle up at the square that's right below the X. And go across two grids. So there is one tied herring bone. Okay. And then I'm just going to work my way across that first line of stitches that we stitched, doing the same thing at every axe. So now I'm going to skip up to the one that's the next one over to the right. And I'll do the same thing. I'm going to go across first, across two stitches. And then I like the way these colors look together. When I was ordering kits, I told some of my previous class students, I had colors all picked out and I had a sample stitched, and then they were sold out of some of the colors. And so I ended up having to switch for the class kits to completely different colors. So it will be a surprise to me what these ones look like. I'm pretty sure they're going to be awesome. Alright, I have gotten all the way across with my row of ties. Now, these stitches are symmetrical. It doesn't matter if I stitch them starting at the left side and going across or starting at the right side and going back the other way. Since my thread is already over here at the right side, I'm going to stitch the second row of these just working my way backwards. That way, I don't have to tie a knot and have a big thread across the back or anything like that. I'm going to do them the same way. I'm going to do the horizontal stitch first. Then the vertical. Here we go. But now I'm just going to work back towards the left side. And you can work these any, like, either way, whatever makes the most sense to you. I just like to be sort of efficient with my thread. Okay, I'm going to speed up the video here and just continue stitching these. I have one more row of stitches to do when I get done with this on that third row of herring bones that we did. And then we will finish this section. There's our last tied herringbone stitch. I'm going to tie knot on the back, and that is going to finish this section of the design. One thing I want to point out, we do have another section of the sampler that's the same stitch, a slight variation on it, and that is this block that's right down here. This is also a tied herring bone, but we're going to swap the colors instead of doing a tie stitch, both vertically and horizontally, we only go one way. I also took those herringbone stitches and I turned them 90 degrees. These are the same stitch here and here, but they're going to look totally different. I'm not going to stitch that second block right now, even though that's this lesson. I'm going to do it a little bit later on in the process because I really don't like having to count all 100 stitches or something like this to get this placed in the right place. I'm going to work my way down this side a little farther before I do that so that we can start this one and not have to do all of that counting. Okay? 5. Toroko Stitch: Nine. Alright, our next stitch, we're going to do the Turoco stitch. Taroco is a kind of couching. And so one more time, we're going to stitch kind of a layer of foundation stitches, and then we're going to come back and put another layer in a different color on top of it. So my Turoco stitch works in my color chart in kind of the two shades of turquoise. So I'm going to use the lighter one to do the first set of stitches, and then the darker one is going to come back here and do some kind of tie down stitches. So I'm going to start off with this one. And this block goes just below the one that we just stitched. And this one you're going to have to do some counting. We are going to make some really long stitches, and so you're going to have to count some grids to get those so they're just the right length. Okay, so one thing to notice about this particular stitch is we're going to start by doing the really long horizontal lines. You can see there's one here that's one stitch that goes all the way across the whole block. So I'm going to start with doing those horizontal lines, so there's one, two, three, four, that go across horizontally like that. Now, it doesn't start at the corner of the block here that's in blue. We actually need to count down here to get this placed exactly right from the previous stitch. And so if I look at my last stitch was up here where I can count from where that one starts. I'm going to go one, two, three, of the yellow, there's 12 squares between, and then one, two more to get to the spot where the stitch starts. So three, four, five, six, seven stitches down from here to here to get this one established. And it's in the same line. So those should line up with the previous section. Okay. So I know I need to be right on this line of grid, and I'm going seven stitches down from this point. From that section, you can always refer back to the drawing. So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven. That's my whole right there. I'm kind of marking it with my thumbnail. And before I do any part of this stitch, I'm going to bring my needle through, and I'm going to count that again. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven. So my needle is coming up right there. And I'm going to pull through. Okay. Now we're going to stitch across. This is a really long stitch, and we're going to go I can kind of count these in twos. So two, four, six, eight, ten, 12, 14, 16 stitches across. And a thing I will notice is that the end of this stitch kind of is going to line up with one of my herring bones from up above. So I can double check myself that I have all 16 going across there. All right, so back to counting, you can kind of see I like to glide my needle along. That's how I count it. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16. And I can see, yes, where my 16 is is going to line up with the right side of that herring bone stitch, so I've got it in the right spot. I'm also making sure that I'm going straight across. I haven't dipped down a row, and I can pull that one through. So there's the first stitch of our Turoco stitch. Okay. Now we're going to do three more like that, and they are spaced out one, two, three, four squares apart. I'm going to zig zag these back and forth because this is just a straight stitch. My thread is coming out on the right side right now, so I'm just going to drop down one, two, three, four. So four grids, one, two, three, four and come up. And now I'm going to go all the way back over. It's going to match this left side. It's much easier once you get that very first stitch established. Right? Okay. We're going to do that two more times. Going to drop down one, two, three, four. Go all the way back across, making sure it lines up and one more like that. Okay. Now, we're going to make a tick tack toe board. We have really long stitches that are vertical, and I've got one, two, three of those long vertical stitches. So I'm going to stitch those the same way. And I'm looking at sort of as a reference, my thread is going to come up right here, which is one, two, three, four stitches over from the edge. And it's two stitches down from my previous line. Okay? So I'm coming over one, two, three, four, and then down two, one, two. So right there, it's hard to see the needle. Okay. And I'm going to go straight up. And if I look at the top edge of it, my thread is going to stick up two stitches above that horizontal line we stitched. So I need to go one, two past it, right like that. And you can do one more double check. Whoops. And you can see my line is crooked. I put it in the wrong spot. I'm over to the left. One stitch too many. I'm going to undo that. Try again. All right. That's better. Then one double check you can do. Every one of these pattern squares has two grid squares between the one next to it. There should be two blank squares between these two. I can see that I have the right spacing. Now I'm going to work to the right and this is the same spacing as before. I'm going to go over four and copy that last stitch I did and straight down. Then over another four, And back up. Okay? So we've got kind of a tick tack toe board. And at this point, I often need to change thread because I don't have an awful lot left. I still have a little bit here. So I'm going to start stitching the sort of secondary lines. So you can see now we've got those big long ones in. Now we have these kind of long plus signs that are in the middle of those grids, and I'm going to stitch those next kind of the same way that we stitch the plus kind of signs up top here. So I'm going to do them kind of one at a time. And I'm going to start with the horizontal and then do the vertical part of it. So let's see. Just looking to see where my thread is. I think I'm going to tie a knot, and I'm going to start again on the left side so we can establish a pattern. So once more, I don't have a good spot to tie this off that's really close by. I'm actually going to sneak over here and tie it behind this other set of stitches because I don't want to have a big thread across the back of my piece, so I'm just going to slip the thread underneath there. Tie my knot right there. There's a way to tie a knot just and use your needle to help tighten it, and I never seem to get those very tight. Like, I feel like it's always super loose when I do that. Alright, I'm going to go ahead and grab another piece of thread mine wasn't very long. And we're going to start on those secondary pluses. Starting back here on the left side. I've got this one to start right here, that horizontal line and this vertical line. So it is one, two, three, four, down. It's right between those two long stitches that we just made, and it goes over one, two, three, four, five. It's going to cross over the vertical and go past it by one stitch. I'm coming up between those two. I'm going to go all the way across the square plus one more beyond it. Okay, and then I'm going to do the second part of that plus. Okay. The second part of the plus is going to start, again, between the edge and the first line. We're going to go right in the middle of that, so two squares over. And I'm going to go one past the line. So one past the line is right there. Sorry, that was hard to see the needle. And then I'm going to cross over that next line and one more square. Okay. Then I'm going to move my way to the right, and I don't have a plus here, but I can see I have a half a stitch right there that's between second and third or the first and the second vertical stitches. So I'm going to do this little half stitch that's here. So it overlaps my horizontal thread by one and goes to the top. So overlapping inside this grid by one. There's lots of ways to count this. I am using those long stitches that we established and kind of counting off of that. But if it makes more sense to you to count it from a corner or something like that, you can totally do that. All right, so that's that little vertical stitch. Okay, now I have another plus sign. So I'm going to do the horizontal part of it first. So this is two squares in. It's right in the center of those two long stitches. It should line up with the previous plus sign that I did. Coming up, I'm going to go all the way across the square plus one more grid line. And then do the vertical, which is I go one square above the line right in the center and stitch one grid below the line. Big plus. Okay, and then there's one more half a stitch right here on the edge. I'll do that one up at the same level and then across the line. I Okay. That was kind of our first pass. We did that first third or a little more. Now there's two more plus signs on the next row of squares on that kind of middle row. I've got one here and one here. You could tie a knot. You could make a stitch across the back. I'm going to work from right to left just because my thread is on the right hand side, and I think that's going to work out for me. I'm going to stitch the horizontal part of this stitch first. Okay, so it's right in the middle of the next square down, so this square right here. And it goes all the way across the square plus one more stitch. Like so. Okay, then I'll do the vertical, which is I'm going to go right in the center. It's lining up with a stitch above it. I go one grid past the horizontal thread and then come down and go one grid past. Next one over, there's nothing. The next plus sign, I shouldn't say there's nothing, there's stitches here. But the next plus sign is going to happen in this square. I'm going to do my horizontal part first, which means I'm coming over to this vertical thread and I'm going to bring it up. It's two away from the previous one. Then I go all the way across the square plus one. Then stitch the vertical, I go one above one below. Okay, so that finishes one, two. Now we just have this last row, which is like the first row. We've got a plus sign here, we've got a plus sign here, and then there's two half stitches kind of in between. So one more time, I'm going to start with the horizontal part. So I'm going to come over here to the far left side, and it's in this third row of squares. So left side. I'm going to go across that square plus one more. And then stitch my vertical, which is one above the line and one below the line. Okay, then there's a half stitch. So it's in the middle of the grid squares, and it goes one above the line and then matches the bottom edge. So one above the line, and it's going to line up here with those other two long stitches. Okay, next horizontal stitch. I'm coming up one to the left of this long vertical stitch and going all the way across plus one. And then in the center of that square, I'm coming up above the line by one grid and below the line by one grid. Then one more half stitch right here at the edge come one, two over and then over from that vertical line, then I'm coming down at the bottom of the grid. All of your outside threads should be in a line. But there's not one in every square. They're a little bit irregular. So that is the foundation of the Turocostitch. We've got all of the black lines stitched now. So we've got one more little set of tack down stitches. So Turoco stitch is a it's considered a filling stitch. So it's just kind of this I don't know, tile kind of pattern of stitches that would be used to fill in a large area of something. I'm not tying a very good knot here. There we go. I twisted my thread somehow weird there. Did not make a good knot. Alright, tie a knot. Now I'm going to switch colors to my darker turquoise or that second color there that's on your chart. And this one we only need to make a few little stitches. So these are diagonal stitches that are going to go across the center of those kind of Xs that we just stitched. So it's a tie down stitch, a little bit like the ones we did on the tied Herring bone in the last lesson. And these are in gray, so you can see here. And it goes one grid kind of away from the center and one grid over. And all of these are going from top right to bottom left. So again, just kind of stitch them in rows. I'm going to do the first two, and then I'll do the next row and then I'll do the next row. So there's only six of these stitches to do. Okay. I'm going to start my first one. It's going to go right here over this far left hand plus sign and I go one grid down and to the left of the plus and cross over and go up one like that. Then I move over to the next plus sign and I do the same thing. There's two. Okay, I'm moving down to the next row right here. Next row of squares. I'm going to go over this one. And I'm just stitching this one from the top to the bottom this time, and I'm working my way back across because that's the side that my thread is on. So cross like that. Then I'm going to the next plus. Again, if it makes more sense to you, you can absolutely count the number of stitches. So there would be one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, that I'm coming over from my previous stitch here. If that makes more sense to you, you can count them that way. All right, two more stitches to go. I'm going to stitch one over this plus. And then move over one more right here. And that is a finished section of Turoco stitch. 6. Fly Stitch: Okay, our next section is the fly stitch, and this one is only in one color. I think this one's really pretty in a variegated color, as you're thinking about colors, if you're choosing them as you go. So we're going to do three rows of fly stitch and two of them go the same direction. Fly stitch kind of has a way that it points. So the top and the bottom row kind of go the same direction, and then we're going to vary it. The middle row is going to go the opposite direction. Okay, so I'm going to grab. I'm going to stitch this one in this variegated green. But Okay. And we are checking here. We're going to start. Our stitch starts right at the top left corner of this block. So we need to go two down from that previous toroko stitch section, and we're going at the same line off to the left. So I'm going to skip 12 rows and bring my needle up right there. I'm two below this toroko stitch section. And the fly stitch, we're going to work across. It's going to go two stitches kind of vertically, and it's going to go one stitch horizontally. Alright, so fly stitch, I'm going to start by bringing my needle straight down one, two grids. And I'm going to pull this through, but I'm not going to pull it all the way tight. I'm not going to close up the stitch. I'm leaving it just a little bit loose because we're going to catch this loop with our next stitch. And so I'm bringing my needle up between those two grids that we just stitched. So there's one row in between there, and I want to go one square to the right. So I'm in between those two stitches, and I'm one square to the right, and I'm just going to hold this up close so you can see, hopefully move my needle. Okay. And the loop of thread goes around the outside of my needle. All right. When I pull that through, I'm going to pull that previous stitch until it kind of closes up right on the thread. There we go. And you see it makes this little kind of V shape, and the Vs are pointing to the right right now. Okay. To finish this stitch, I'm going to do one stitch. I'm going to go one grid to the right. So one grid straight to the right and make a stitch. Now I've got kind of a sideways Y. And that's all there is to this stitch. We're just going to keep doing this over and over and over. Okay? So I'm coming up one stitch to the right of my previous one. There we go. Trying to move the needle so you can see. So I'm just one stitch over to the right. I'm going to go straight down two stitches. I'm going to pull this through, but leave it a little bit loose. Now I'm coming up one grid to the right of that, which is actually where my last stitch left off. I'm coming up in the same hole where my very last stitch ended. There it is. Needle is coming up there. Try to hold this up close. The thread is to the outside of my needle. One more time I'm going to pull pull pull pull until that V lays down on the fabric. And then one stitch to the right. These are really close together, which I think makes a really cool texture, and we just keep going. I come up one square to the right of the previous stitch. I go straight down two squares. I leave that a little bit loose. I come up one more stitch to the right right in the center. Right where that last stitch left off. And when I pull this through, I also pull that loop closed or kind of into a V, and then I finish it with one stitch to the right. Okay. One more slow. I come up one grid over. I go straight down to leave it loose. Come up. One more grid to the right, but right in the center, top to bottom. Threads around the outside. Pull, pull, pull. Make a stitch to the right. Okay, we're going to keep going. We have one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 stitches to go across, I should end at the same line where your toroko stitch ended. So you can kind of keep an eye out for that. All right, I'll keep stitching them slow for a couple more stitches, and then I'm just going to speed up to the end. So brought it up. I go straight down. Now I bring it up again where the last stitch left off. Pull and one stitch to the right. This is one stitch for sure, where the rounded point needle will help you just push that last stitch out of the way instead of splitting the thread. The last that straight stitch at the end should line up with the previous stitches here, that last little tail end. So we're going to do the next row of fly stitch. We're going to skip one grid in between, there'll be one blank row in between, and then we're going to do another row of fly stitches pointing back the other way. So instead of going to the right every time with the stitches, we're going to go to the left every time with the stitches. I unthreaded my needle accidentally. So let me fix that. Okay, I still have plenty of thread, so I'm just going to start my next row of stitches, and I'm going to go back towards the left side. So I'm starting this one in the same line as the previous stitches, but I want to make sure that there's a gap of one row, one grid line in between these. So I'm coming up right here, which is two stitches below that last like center. And we're working the same way. So I'm going to go down to I'm going to leave it a little bit loose. Then I'm coming up one this time to the left side between those two stitches and I'm pulling through. And now when I stitch down that little tack down stitch, that little straight stitch, I'm going one stitch to the left instead of to the right. Okay, so we're just changing direction, making the stitches face the other way. But they work the same way. So I go down I go one to the left, pull it tight, and then stitch down. You can double check. There's one blank row between those two rows of fly stitch. I'm going to continue back here, and then we turn around and do one more row facing or pointing towards the right, right below that. Again, there's one row gap in between. Alright, there's my three rows of fly stitch. I love how this one looks in a variegated thread where the color just kind of changes as it works its way across. 7. Guilloche Stitch & Maltese Cross: Alright, this next lesson, I'm actually going to put two stitches in this lesson because these are pretty simple ones that go pretty fast, and it's going to help to do the two of them kind of alternating so we can get them placed. So the next stitch we're going to do is this little section called the guilloche. So there's a guilloche stitch here. There's also a little more of it right there. And the other stitch we're going to do is the Maltese cross, which is this one up in the corner. That's going to help us, I think, get these placed if we stitch those three together. So I'm going to start with this line of guilloche stitch, and it starts with the orange color. We're going to do this again in two parts. One is we're going to lay down some running stitches first in that orange color, and then we're going to come back and do some threaded lines underneath that. So starting with the orange, or whatever color you're representing with orange here. This is just a running stitch. These stitches goes over two grids, skip one, so it's a little bit uneven, unbalanced, over two stitches under one, over two under one. We can do these just as three passes zigzagging back and forth. Again, there's two spaces between the fly stitch and this next section, and this first row of stitches is going right along the edge what will be the left edge of our sampler. I'm making sure I've got two spaces after my fly stitch. Okay, and I caught the end of the thread. Don't want that. All right. So I'm going to go over two and then under one. Go over two. Under one. I think this is the easiest stitch we've done so far. Okay, I should count one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. So there's five, six, seven, eight. And I like to double check everything, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. All right. Then I'm going to move over one grid square, and I'm just going to go back and sort of parallel that line. So we're going to have three parallel lines of running stitch all right next to each other. And I like to just exact this back and forth. Okay. There's our foundation for guioch. So I'm going to tie this one off because we're going to switch colors. Okay. Now we're going to swap two. For me, it's the purple. It's whatever is your pink color on your chart. So it's this kind of variegated purple and blue. The second part of this, this stitch could also be called a double threaded running stitch, but they call it a guioche and what we're going to do is we're going to make kind of a wavy line that goes underneath these stitches but not through the fabric. And so it's going to kind of S curve back and forth under these stitches, and then we're going to double back and go back the other way. So I didn't draw the complete line on the diagram just because it got too messy and confusing. So it will kind of look like this on the edge, but the center will have more going on than it looks like. So we're going to come up in this first set of three running stitches. I'm going to come up right underneath basically the middle of the stitch. So there's one hole underneath that, and I'm just going to kind of push the stitch out of the way with my thumb a little bit so I can just come up right under it with my needle in the middle. And I'm starting on the left side. And now I'm going to go down to the next row of stitches and I'm going to slide my needle underneath all three stitches, one, two, three, going from left to right. I'm going to pull this through. And this is a little bit of a judgment call how much thread you leave out here. So it's all about the tension and how big a loop you want there. So I'm going to pull mine about like that, and I'm going to try to be consistent. So now we go down to the next row and I'm going to go back towards the left. I slip underneath one, two, three, and try to slip under and not split the thread. And I'm going to pull, again, establishing, how big that loop is that I want to stick out there. And we're gonna keep curving just alternating back and forth. So slip, slip, slip. Then back towards the left side. Towards the right. Oops I slipped under the fabric. Just the thread. And this one, you can see I'm bending the fabric a little bit as I do this. This might be a place if you're working in a hoop that you might take it out of the hoop just to be able to slip under those stitches a little bit easier to do just this part of the stitch. Then I'll slip through my last one. There's one set of S curves. Now I'm going to go back the other way. This time, I'm going to go just working backwards. I'm going to go back up and now I'm going to go through this one from right to left. So the opposite of what I did before. This is where you just have to be particular about not catching any of those previous threads. So I'm going back through. So there's almost like a circle around this very last one on the loop, and now I'm just going the opposite way of my last set. So just being a little slow and patient so that I'm not splitting threads or going through the fabric and trying to make my loops match. I happened to stitch this in double variegated. Like both two variegated threads ended up being in this one, and it's kind of crazy. All the different color combinations I'm getting. Okay. So. And then the last stitch, I like it to look the same as the bottom one, so I actually slip underneath those three and then bring my needle back down in the same hole that I started. So I finish the slip. Like, se. And then I'm just going to go back down through that same center hole there. I think so. And you can adjust these a little bit once you're done stitching, just to get them all kind of balanced and even. But there's one section of guilloche, and then we're going to do another section of that up towards the top, but we're going to stitch the Maltese cross first. So I'm going to tie this part off. Let's see. Find a good stitch. I can anchor this too. Okay, Maltese cross. We have to do a little counting to place this first stitch and we're going to start by bringing our thread up right here where I circled it. It's on the left hand side of the stitch to the very top one on the left side. We're going to have to count past this little cloud fill section because we haven't done that yet. I'm going to go one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12 across, and one, two down. Let's get that placed first. So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, and I'm putting my thumbnail by that, and then I need to go down one, two, right? So that's the spot for my first part of the stitch. I always check that twice. You want to get this in the right place so you don't have to rip it all out and stitch it again. Okay? So I've got my thread coming out in the right spot. Now, we're going to work the Maltese cross in kind of two parts. There's two stitches right next to each other, so we're going to do the left hand one first. And I'm going to stitch the horizontal parts first. You have to count the very first stitch. Once you have the very first stitch of the section done, it's much easier. So bear with me. So I'm going to count over, and this first stitch is going to go from the top on the left to the bottom on the right. Okay, so I need to come over the whole width of this stitch, which is one, two, I'm gonna count it up here. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine. Okay? And then I need to come down from where that thread is one, two, three, four, five. Okay, so nine across and five down from where I am right now. Okay. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, puts me right there, marking it with my thumbnail, one, two, three, four, five. Okay. And I'm going to pull that through. And that makes kind of a sharp diagonal line. Okay? Now, it's easy. Once we have that first stitch established, our threads on the right side. So on the right side, I'm going to go up one square in the same line where my last stitch left off. I go up one square, and then I'm going to come back to the side, and I'm going to go down one square on the left from where the stitch started. Now I have this shallow crisscross. On the left side, I'm going to go down one. I'm going to go across to the right and go up one. So you see once you've got that pattern established, that's really easy to zigzag back and forth. On the right side, I go up, so I go up one, back across. Then go down one. Back across. And last one, we go up one more And back cross. Oops, I caught thread there. Alright? There's the first half of a Maltese cross. It looks kind of like a bow tie. We're going to do exactly the same thing again, but now we're going to do a top to bottom one. So my last stitch ended right here. So we did this part. So I'm going to skip over and I'm going to start the next one right here. And we're going to do the same thing. From here, we're going to count across nine, and we're going to go over five. Okay? So we got to count that first one, and it is two down and two to the right of where my last stitch left off. Okay? So I'm going two down, one, two, and two to the right. So my next stitch is going to start right there. And just like we did here, I'm going to count nine across the stitch. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, and then five, one, two, three, four, five. And you can double check yourself where your needle is going down right now should be two over and two up from where this part of the stitch left off. You can see that on the picture. Once I have that first one established, now I'm just zigzagging back and forth. My first stitch here is going to go one to the left and then come down and go to the right side. Then one to the right. Go back up to the left side of the stitches. One to the left, go back down. One to the right. Go back up. One to the left, and go back down. That is a Maltese cross. The one next to it is exactly the same. It's going to share holes with its neighbor here along the right hand side. I probably have enough thread that I can start the next one. I'm going to start my next stitch right here on the right hand side of the previous one and I'm going to do it in the same pattern. So I'm coming up right here. I'm going over nine and down five. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, one, two, three, four, five. And you can double check yourself. It should line up with the other stitch. Yep. All right. And we're going to zigzag back and forth. So I go up one and across, and it's sharing a hole with a previous stitch. Then I go down one. Okay, there's the horizontal part. And then we'll do the vertical part the same way. So I'm going to count down two and over two. That's going to start my stitch right there. And then I'm going to count up nine and over five. Three, five, seven, eight, nine, and one, two, three, five, right there. Yep. And gagging back and forth again. So I go back to the left and then to the right on the bottom. And I'm just barely going to have enough thread. Okay. And you can double check. You should have six rays in each of these groups. So there should be six stitches vertically and six stitches horizontally. All right. And then we can tie off. Alright, to finish out this lesson, we're going to do one more section of guilloche stitch that'll be much easier to place now that we've got the Maltese cross in place because it's right here. So it starts two squares below the Maltese cross. And you'll notice it's not lined up with the edge of your Maltese cross stitches. It's actually one stitch over. We're going to do another tiny section of guilloche right here with just four stitches. And this one, you will notice, is stitched in all the same color. So I'm using whatever your dark blue is. I'm doing both the running stitch section and the woven section of it in the same color this time. So it gives it just a little bit of a different. Okay, counting from the guilloche stitch, I'll help you get started on this one. So I know I need to go two down from the bottom of the stitch because there's always a two stitch gap. And I'm going to go, let's see. I'll go from this bottom corner of the stitch. I need to go one, two, three to the right or to the left, sorry, three to left, one, two, three, and that will give me the space that this first running stitch starts. Okay, so I'm going one, two, three, and I need to make sure that I'm leaving two stitches, one, two, or two grids between. So that should bring my needle up right. There. And before I stitch anything, I'm going to double check that. So I'm one, two, three, over, and I'm two down. Yep. And I should be one grid to the left of those guilloche stitch. Alright, and now one stitch over from the Maltese cross stitches. I misspoke. Now, you know how to do guilloche stitch. You can jump back and rewatch that if you want to. I'm just going to speed up the video as I stitch this little section. Y Okay. And there's our second tiny section of guilloche stitch. Actually, looking at mine, I'm going to try to smooth out those circles a little bit. Mine were not quite all the same size. There we go. I like that a little better. 8. Brighton Stitch: Next up is the Brighton stitch on my sample here, that's this section. That's right there. It looks like this on our pattern page. Okay, we're going to stitch this one in whatever color you've assigned to blue. For me, that's this bright turquoise. And one thing before we start stitching this, I want to point out about this stitch is kind of the way that it's formed. It looks really complex, like, there's a lot of lines, and this one actually breaks down into three by three squares. And so I'm going to show you that. I want to just block off some sections of the pattern so we can just kind of focus down using a couple of post it notes. So if I look at just a three by three section of this stitch, like so, and I'm going to zoom down a little bit. You can see that. This block is just five diagonal lines, and they go across one square, two, three, two, one, and they're all leaning the same direction, and these lines are all one square apart. So we're going to stitch the first section of it as this block with just five stitches, one, two, three, two, one, like this. Now, as we move across, we're going to do this a row at a time, each row is three squares high. If we move to the next square, just move my post at note. The next square is the same, five stitches, if I just block that with my finger. But these ones are slanting the opposite direction. These were going up. The next ones are going down. It's the same pattern of stitches, one, two, three, two, one across those diagonals as we go. As we work our way across the row, the next block, we're back to the same as we did for the first one. It's again, five stitches that are leaning up and then our last block is five stitches leaning down. So they just kind of alternate, but it's the same pattern of stitches every time. Now, if we move down a row to do the next row, we're going to go down three squares. One, two, three, and if I just block off the top of this, you can kind of look at this is exactly the same pattern we were stitching before. But instead of starting with a block that kind of leans up, we're going to start with a block that leans down. So you kind of do the opposite of the one above it. But then they work their way across exactly the same way. So there's five stitches leaning down. Then we go to five going up. Then five going down, and then five going up. The pattern continues the rest of the way through this block. So we're just working little three by three sections for all six rows. So there's one, two, three, four, five, six rows across on this one, up and down, six rows. We'll make our Brighton stitch section. Okay, so I'm going to zoom back out a little bit, and we will get our first stitch placed. So we're going to count again from one of the last stitches we made. So we'll count over from the guilloche stitch that we did in the last lesson. So the last stitch here, the top edge of that one, I'm going to go over one, two, because there's two blank squares between these two. And so my first stitch is going to happen in this first square here, but I'm going to come up one row down because I want to come in the bottom left corner of that square. So I'm going to go over two and down one, and that's going to set me up to start this first stitch. Okay, so counting over from my guilloche, one, two, and then down one, and I'm going to bring my needle out. Okay. Now we're going to start our pattern of diagonal lines. The first one we do is going to go diagonally across one square, and it goes to the right one and up one. So right and up is my first one square stitch. Now, I like to zig zag these back and forth, so I don't have as much thread on the backside. So to do the next stitch, I'm just going to move over one to the right. Come up. And now I'm going to go back down towards the left side, and I want to go over two squares this time. I'm just counting the diagonals on the squares. So I'm going to go one, two, and that's going to line up with my previous stitch. I come down. So there's a diagonal line that's one square away. I'm going to keep zigzagging across. This next one, I'm going to go three stitches. And to start it, I'm going to go down one, kind of keeping in line with the other two stitches. And now I go up to the right across three, one, two, three, Okay, so that's one, two, three. Our next stitch is going to be two squares long. And this is kind of the right side of our little square that we're stitching. So I'm going to go down one to start out the next diagonal. Down. There we go. Down one. And now I go back diagonal across two squares, one, two, And then one more stitch to finish this off. I'm gonna go one square to the right. And my diagonal just goes across one square this time. Okay, so there's one Brighton stitch block. So now we're going to do the next block, kind of going the diagonals in an opposite direction. Okay? So I'm going to start in the bottom left corner of this because my thread is here on the bottom, and I want to stitch this kind of going from left to right. To make my very first stitch, I would come up in the same hole where my last stitch left off. And so I would pull out my last stitch if I did that. So instead, I'm going to start it in the bottom corner of this diagonal instead of just stitching it from the top. So I'm going to go over one and down one. Bring my needle up. Okay? And now my diagonals are leaning the opposite direction. So now they're going to kind of lean up this way towards the left. And so I'm going up one kind of diagonal across one square, and it's going to share a hole with our previous block. Okay. Next, I go up. We're going to do that next diagonal. Just trying to push my thread out of the way. I don't want to split it. Okay, so I've gone up one square. Now I'm going to go across two stitches, two squares for the diagonal, so one, two. Okay, move to the right one square. Okay. Now back up this way. Three, one, two, three. It should be in the same hole as that previous stitch. Okay, so I've done one, two, three. Now I got to go back to two, one. So I go to the right by one square. Go across two diagonals, one, two, and last one, I go up one and across one square. Okay, we're going to do two more blocks like this in this row. So my next one is going to go back to the diagonals will lean the same way as my first one. All right, I'm going to start the next stitch. Our first stitch is going to be a one stitch diagonal that's going to go right here in the next row. You can start it from the top or the bottom edge. It doesn't matter. I'm going to go down and start it from the bottom edge of that diagonal, which is sharing a hole with the previous stitch. Okay. And now I'm slanting towards the right, kind of up towards the right this time. So I'm going to go up one take my needle to the right one square. Now I go across two stitches, one, two. Again, it should match that pre stitch. Now I go down one. Back towards the right across three, one, two, three. Now I'm down to two stitches, so I want to go down one because I'm at the right edge of my square. Cross two, one, two squares. And my last little one stitch at the corner, so I go to the right one Okay. Now, we're just going to repeat what we did in the second block. So I'm going to start this by going over one and down one. And these are leaning again up towards the left. There's one. This one goes across two. This goes across three. The right back down across two. And my last one across one. Can do a double check. Your last stitches here should line up in the same line with your fly stitches from the row before. And actually, it should continue that same line with the toroko stitch up above, so you know that they're all aligned. So now I finish one row of Brighton. I'm going to actually tie my thread off here because I want to stitch the next one again from left to right. I'm going to do the next block of three. It'll be three high and it'll have four little blocks of stitches just like we did. But we're going to start at the diagonals going in the opposite direction from the row above it. The row above, they're leaning this way. Our row below, the second row of stitches is going to lean this way. And it helps you to look at the picture, you can grab a post note like this and just put it at the bottom of the row so that you can kind of block out what's going on below that, and it might make it a little bit easier to follow the pattern if you like to be able to follow the picture as you're doing your stitches. Okay? So I'm going to tie off this row. I'm going to speed up the video and just stitch the next row, and then we'll check in again when we are at the end of this block. And one little note to start the next row. I want to stitch this again from left to right. And so I want to start with the bottom stitch of this and be able to stitch one, two, three, two, one going kind of from left to right. So I need to count down to start this stitch, and it's going to start one, two, will be the top part of the stitch right here to get to that section where I do the one stitch. I just wanted to point that out. We go to count down a little bit, just so you can start on the very bottom, the left hand stitch. There is my last Brighton stitch and I'm going to tie off on the back. I don't know about you guys, but I think this is one of my favorite sections on this whole sampler. I just love the way this stitch turns out. 9. Cloud Fill Stitch: Okay, our next section is called a cloud fill stitch, and we're going to do this block right down here, but there is a second set of cloud fill and a block right up here, and we are all set up on our piece to be able to fill in that block. So we're going to do both of those sections in the same lesson. So we're going to start on this one on the bottom left corner. This works in two colors again. So we're going to do a foundation set of stitches with yellow, which is whatever color you've assigned to yellow, which for me is yellow. And then our second set of stitches is going to be in whatever you've assigned to your orange section. That second set of stitches is not shown on the pattern. I'll show you that when we go to stitch them. It made the pattern look too complicated and messy to put the line in. But here's what it's going to look like when we're all done. Now on this sample, I used a variegated colored thread, which is why that second set of stitches is all different colors. So we're going to start by stitching what looks like the yellow stitches here on this one, and then fill in with that second color. In our second section of cloud fill, it's actually going to be all in one color. Again, on this sample, that was a variegated thread, so it looks a little different here. Alright, so let's start out with our yellow, and we're going to lay in those foundation stitches. So I've got my yellow thread. That's kind of mustard gold color for me. The first part of this stitch is just a running stitch. It's actually the same stitch we used to start off guiochT cloud fill is related to the guilloche stitch. It's a similar kind of structure. All right, so we're going to stitch a series of running stitches. They're going to be one square high and one square apart. So there's one square gap, and the columns kind of alternate. They're off by one row as we go across. Okay, so we can count down to start the placement of this one. The bottom of our guilloche stitch is here. We need to go down one, two, and that first row of stitches is going to be in that same column of holes. Okay, so going as far to the left, one, two, down, bringing my needle up in that second hole. Okay, and we're going to start with running stitch, which is just I'm going to go down one square. I'm going to skip one square and come back up. Here we go. Stitch one square. Skip one. Stitch. And one more. So there's just four stitches in this first row. Okay. I'm going to do similar to what I've done in several other places. I'm going to zig zag back and forth. I'm going to go over one column and go down one to start the next row because it's offset and I'm going to work my way back towards the top. So I'm going over one and I'm going down one from where I left off. My next stitch is going to start there, and I'm going to do the same pattern. I'm going to go one skip one, do a stitch. Skip one. And this also has four stitches. Okay, I'm going to continue in that pattern, adding running stitches. I'm going to match this block here. So you can count. There's one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, looks like. And your last row should line up with your Brighton stitch up above. So it should be in that same column of stitches so you can kind of double check yourself. Okay, I'm going to speed up the video as I stitch these because I don't think we need to go through them slowly step by step. And then we'll meet back to do the second half of this stitch. Okay, to start this next section of cloud fill, I've got my orange thread ready to go. I'm holding my piece kind of sideways because I think it's easier to do this kind of going away from me with my needle. So I'm going to start by bringing my needle up at the bottom of this very first running stitch. So if I were facing right side up, it's at the bottom of the stitch, I'm going to come out at that same hole. And I'm going to thread underneath each of these stitches as I go across. I'm not going to go back through the fabric again until I have reached the end of this row. So all the rest of these are going to just be slipped underneath the running stitches that we've already laid down. And this first pass across, I'm only going to go underneath the first two row of stitches. And so I'm going to kind of zigzag back and forth, alternating between just those first two rows. Okay? So the first one I'm going to do is this second row that I'm coming to here, the one that's on the right side. So I'm gonna slip underneath the right side stitch. And pull through. Then I'm going to go under the left stitch. Back under the right stitch. And try to slip underneath the threads and not split them. That's where the blunt needle will help with this that you're just going underneath those stitches. And I'm alternating back and forth, left, right, left, right, left, right. I'm just pulling the thread tight enough that it lays kind of flat underneath those running stitches. I don't want to distort the stitches at all. I don't want to pull it so tight that it's like pulling them out of place. Okay. Got. Three more. Two more stitches under that one, under this one. And then when I get to the very last stitch, I'm just going to go down right at the end at the bottom of that last stitch in the row. So back through the fabric. So there's one little zigzagging line of our cloud fill. Okay. For the next row, because my thread is on this side, I'm going to stitch this one back going the other direction. I'm just going to spin my fabric around because I like it. I like to hold on to it that way. I'm going to start this one by coming up at the top of the running stitch that's on the end. And we're going to zig zag again going between the second and third rows. So one set of stitches we have already slipped underneath once, and then we're going to slip under the next one. Okay, so I'm bringing my needle up at that very first stitch. And I'm going to zigzag back and forth. So my first one, I'm going to go to the right. It's sharing a thread with that previous row. And now I'm going to do that same zigzagging motion. I'm going to do one to the left. Then one to the right. One to the left. One to the right. And again, we're trying not to split threads anywhere if we can help it. And And you can see there's now kind of a little diamond pattern that's happening between those two slipped rows. Okay, same thing. When I get to the very last stitch, I'm going to go down at the top edge of that last stitch. So I kind of stay in pattern. All right. Now I'm ready to go back towards the right side again, and we're going to do the same thing. The left hand stitch here is going to be the same row. It's going to share a row with the previous one we did and then we'll do one new row. So like one we slipped through before and one new row, we're zigzagging back and forth. I'm going to start this one by coming up at the bottom or the right side of this next running stitch. There we go. And zigzagging one more time. So I'm going to start by going to the right. Then the left, which has already been slipped through in our last row and back to the right. And so on. I'm going to speed up the video. Here you got the idea of how these slipped stitches work and we will meet back when we have finished slipping all of the rows of running stitch. There's the last bit of cloud fill that section is finished. I love using variegated thread on this section. I like how it does a color gradient there, which is really fun. Right, so I'm going to tie this off. I'm going to get you started on the other section of cloud fill up here. But you know all the instructions already. So we'll kind of get started of how you place that first section. And the only difference with this one is we're going to stitch both parts of it, the running stitch and the slipped stitches, we're going to do in the same color, and that's going to be in whatever color you've assigned to green for this section. I'm going to tie this off first. Okay. Got that. I'm going to swap to my green thread. And we'll take a look at our chart. So we are going to. We're going to count over from the end of our tied herringbone stitch. We're going to go over one, two, and our first running stitch is going to start there. So this one is a little taller. This one was only four stitches. This one is five and then four in the next row. So it's kind of alternating five and four. And you're going to do ten. It looks like one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, nine rows across. Okay. So we'll get that very first part started. So I'm going over one, two from my tied herring bone, and I'm doing the same kind of running stitch. It goes one square, and then we skip a square and stitch a square. Okay. And one double check we can do. Our last row of running stitch should be 12 away from our Maltese cross. So there should be a gap of two squares there. All right, I'm going to finish stitching this section, and we'll just do a quick check in at the very end, and you can see the finished section, the other section of cloud fill. All right, there is my second section of cloud fill stitch. So one there at the bottom. And one up at the top. 10. Plaited Feather Stitch (Part 1): Okay, our next section to stitch is the plaited feather stitch. And we've got this again in two spots on the sampler. We've got one little section down here. And then we've got kind of two rows next to each other on this little section right here. We're going to stitch this one right now in class. We're going to come back and stitch this one a little bit later after we've done some of these other blocks just to help us with placement of it. We're going to learn the stitch right now and then we'll revisit in another lesson a little bit later on, coming back to stitch that other section. I do that mostly just because I don't like having to count a huge distance across. I always make a mistake. Okay, so the platted feather, we basically do two rows of feather stitch one on top of the other. And there's one little twist where we do the platting or we are braiding it, plating, platting together. So the first stitch stitch we're going to do are the ones indicated in black, and that's going to be in my aqua color, whatever I've assigned to sort of aqua up here. And then my second set is going to be whatever is in pink, and the pink for me is this variegated thread. So I'm going to start out with the aqua colored ones and do this first section. So I'm going to get some thread ready to go. Okay. I'm turning my fabric a little bit this way. I think the stitch is a little easier for me to stitch if my fabric is kind of facing this direction. And we are going to bring our needle up. At the top corner here where the stitch starts. It's going to be two over from my guilloche stitch and it's going to be two down from the edge of my Brighton stitch. You'll notice I don't have a stitch right here at the corner. There's not a thread right there, but I need to have a gap of two and two. That's where I'm going to start my needle. I'm going to come over from guioch and two over from the Brighton stitch and bring my needle through. Okay, so these platted So this section of plaited feather stitch is three squares wide, and each one of our stitches looks a little bit like a check mark, and it's going to be two stitches high. One thing I want you to notice is this section is a little bit larger than the stitches over in this section. Okay. So the first part of my stitch, I'm going to go towards the left side. I'm going to go one, two, three squares, and I need to go two squares down, one, two. I'm going to make this kind of part of this stitch in one motion. So I'm actually going to bring my needle down three squares over, one, two, three, and I'm going to bring the needle tip up two squares down so that I'm kind of just making a stitch so I can park the needle. Again, that's three towards the left and one, two down. Before I pull that stitch through, I'm going to take my thread and I'm going to go underneath the tip of the needle from right to left. I'm kind of hooking the thread underneath the tip of the needle. Now I'm going to pull that through. What happens when I do that is we're making that checkmark shape, and it's caught the thread on the beginning of my next stitch. Now we're going to do a checkmark shape going to the other direction. I'm going to do that same parking the needle motion. But this time I'm going to go back to the right, one, two, three, to the right, put my needle down, and then go one, two, down and bring the tip back up again. Over three, down two, and this time I'm going to bring the thread underneath the needle going from left to right. We're swinging back and forth. Okay. Now I'm going to pull through. And you can see now I've got kind of a check mark shape going the opposite direction. All right. Now we're going to swing back to the left again. One, two, three. And this is in the same row that my thread is coming out of that last stitch. So one, two, three, back to the left. Go down two and park my needle. Then my thread wraps from right to left. I moved my needle to the left and my thread is moving to the left. Pulling through. Next stitch is going to go to the right. I go one, two, three, down two. I went to the right with my needle, my thread also going towards the right. You back towards the left again, one, two, three, Needle down. Two stitches. Needle went to the left, so my thread goes to the left. I think we've got one more stitch to go. Back, one, two, three. My needle tip should be coming up right in line with the edge of my Brighton stitch. My needle went right, so my thread goes to the right. Okay, that's one set of feather stitch. We're going to finish this off and then we're going to stitch another row of feather stitch right on top of this. So to finish this one off because I have a loop of thread going around, I'm actually going to go back down in the same hole that this thread is coming out of, and it's going to catch that loop of thread that's already there. I don't want to pull so tight that I pull that to the back side, but it's just making a tiny little stitch. That's going to hold down that corner. Now I can tie this off on the back and finish off this first row of feather stitch. And trim my thread. Now I'm going to switch colors of thread. I've done one pass. Now I'm going to swap to my other color. We're going to do exactly the same stitch, the same pattern of going over three and down two. But we're just going to start it going the opposite direction than our previous row. This time, I'm going to start on the left side, which will actually be the same hole as my previous one started. I'm trying to block that so you can see, there we go. My needles coming up in the same spot as that very first checkmark shape. I Our first stitch the last time we went towards the left. This time we're going to go towards the right. It's going to work exactly the same way. We go over three, one, two, three, which happens to be in the same hole that this last stitch left off. We're going to park the needle bringing it down there, and we go up or we go down two, which actually matches up with that stitch underneath. My other checkmark. We're going to share holes a lot in this one. Our needle went to the left, so I'm going to wrap my thread from left to right. And I'm gonna pull through. And it makes a figure eight shape where my previous checkmark went one way and my new checkmark is now going the other way. Now, here's one little variation that you do to make this a plaited feather stitch. We're going to braid these threads together. Before I start the next stitch, I'm going to do one little thing, which is I'm going to slip underneath this diagonal line right here, get my camera to focus. This diagonal stitch right here, I'm just going to go under that one. Just slip my thread underneath. And now I'm going to start the next stitch. The next stitch, I'm going from where I left off, I go over three, one, two, three, which is going to go down right there, shares a space, and then my needle tip pops up down to squares. Sorry, move some threads out of the way there. My needle went to the left this time, so my thread is going to wrap to the left. Wrapping towards the left and pull through. Oh We're only going to do that little extra slip when we're heading towards the left. When we're going towards the right, we don't do a slip. The next stitch, I'm just going to do the same. One, two, three, over. My needle goes down, goes down two squares and pops up. I went towards the right, so my thread wraps towards the right. Pull through. Okay. This next stitch, we're heading left, so we're going to do the little slip. So we're just going to slip underneath that diagonal bar. And then we go one, two, three, pop the needle tip up two squares down. Go. My needle went left, so my thread goes left. We don't slip anything going to the right, so I just count one, two, three. Needle goes down up. Nle went right, thread goes to the right. And one last stitch, we're going back to the left, so we're going to slip under that last diagonal. And then we're going over one, two, three, so we go right in that corner. The needle goes down two. Needle went left, so thread goes left, and pull through. Then we're going to finish this side the same way. My thread color almost matches my fabric right here. I'm just going to stitch down again in the same hole that that threads coming out of to make a tiny little tack down stitch right there, that finishes our little section of plaited feather stitch. I'm going to tie that off on the back. Now, to stitch the next section of platted feather, I'm actually going to revisit that in this lesson. But what I'm going to do is stop the lesson here. I'm going to move on and record some other things so that I can fill in some of the pieces over here, making it easier to place our next section of platted feather. And then we'll come back to that. So there'll be a pause here, and then we're going to come back and finish up our section of platted feather. 11. Rice Stitch: Our next section is called the rice stitch, and it's this one right here, which looks crazy complicated. And it is right here on our chart. This one again is stitched in two colors. Now, it looks really complex and you can't really see where one stitch starts and then stops. But it's really a series of just big Xs, big cross stitches. And then we're going to do a series of little tack down stitches afterwards. So we're going to start this one with the yellow color, whatever you've assigned to yellow, and we're going to do some alternating cross stitches, and then we're going to come back and do a second pass and then a third pass in green, whatever color you've assigned to green. Okay. So I'm going to start out with the yellow. Okay, and we're going to start out by stitching big Xs in the yellow color. I'm going to use these post it notes one more time to block off a section so you can see the little bits of these stitches better. So these are going to be three squares across again. So there's three by three. You can see there's just one black X in that three by three section. We're going to start out by making that three by three cross stitch and we're going to work our way again across the row. We're going to ignore the gray stitches here. We're actually skipping one, two, three. We're going to do another X. That are shown in black, that's three by three. We're going to skip three, one, two, three, and we're going to do another three by three X. Post it notes a little bit crooked there. That first row, we're just going to make three cross stitches, big ones. When we move down three stitches to go to the next row, we're alternating. We're going to skip because those are in gray. We're going to skip one, two, three. There's another X that goes right here, one, two, three, and another X that goes like this. We're going to keep alternating like that all the way down the block. We're working just like we did in the Brighton stitch. We're working in rows that are three high, and so we've got one, two, three, four, five, and a half of what we're going to work across. Let's start with those big Xs. I've got my needle and my thread. We are going to start this we're going two down from our Maltese crosses and we're going over from our guilloche stitch, and it's going to match up with both of those things. I'm looking for two and two, and that's going to get me to the top left corner to start. I'm going two to the right of my guilloche stitch and that should be two down from my Maltese cross. Okay. So I'm going to do a cross stitch. I'm going to stitch each one of these individually, I think. My first part of the cross stitch, I'm going to go over three, one, two, three, and down three, one, two, three, and make a stitch down. That's going to make a big diagonal line. All right. Then I'm going to go back over to the left hand side. I'm going to go back to one, two, three squares. This should be right in line with where my first stitch started. Two, three, right there. Now I'm going to cross. Now I'm going to go back over one, two, three, and up one, two, three. So I'm just making a three square X. Okay. I'm going to try to make all of my s do the same thing. So I'm going to start at the top left corner and go down, and then I'm going to go to the bottom left corner and go up. So all of the crosses of the cross stitch are going to go the same way. So my next one, I'm going to skip three. I'm going to leave a blank, one, two, three, and so my next stitch is going to start in the top left corner there. Okay. And I'm doing the same thing I just did. One, two, three, over, one, two, three down. And then I'm going to come back to the left, one, two, three, and make that cross by going right three stitches again and up three stitches. Three by three X. And then we've got one more that fits in here. We're going to skip three again, one, two, three. That gets us to the top corner. We're going down towards the left three and three. This should line up with the outside edge of your Maltese cross. Going back to the left corner. There's our three big cross stitches. Now we're going to keep doing rows of those that alternate. My next one is going to start right here and they're just going to be two in this next row. I've got a stitch right there, and then I'm going to skip three and I'm going to do a stitch right there. I am going to tie this one off only because I don't like really big stitches going across the back of my work. That's just my little picky details. I'm going to tie this off and start again going left to right. You can stiturs however you want to, honestly. A Next row of big Xs and two in the next row. And it's going to start where this last one left off because I'm going over three, one, two, three, so that puts the top left corner at the end of that very first X stitch. So same pattern we were doing before three and three and back Then my next one, I count one, two, three over again, which starts at where that last stitch left off. Now, as we look back at our pattern, we're looking at just the black lines again. We have another row of one, two, three big Xs, then a row of two, one, two, then another row of one, two, three big xs. Then we've got a half a row. I'm going to stitch all of these full rows. We'll come back and talk about that half row. I'm just going to speed up the video a little bit while I stitch. Okay, this last row, we are just making. Basically, we're going to start this row of Xs that would go right here. But instead of stitching all stitches, all three squares, we're just going to do one. So there's just one. It's like a third of a stitch. And that was just to make the whole pattern work out. So I'm starting it just like I was doing another row of big Xs. But instead of going one, two, three, I'm just going to go one stitch over. Then I'm going to continue. Then the next part of the X would be right here, but I'm just going to do the top one square of it. I'm just going to do that one like this. Then same thing over here. I've got one little diagonal stitch that goes right here. You can just double check this from the black lines on the pattern. That's the part of this that we're stitching. It is just the black lines. Okay. So I've got the last little third, one third stitch. There, I'm going to tie off, and that's going to finish the first pass, the yellow section of this. We're going to switch colors, and the second part of this stitch we're doing in green. Alright, I think this is actually the easiest part of this stitch is we're now going to do the same three by three big Xs, but we're basically going to fill in the checkerboard. So in every gap that's right here between yellow, we're going to put a big green X. And when you look on the chart here, there's a big green or a gray. There's an X there and an X there. The next row, there's going to be three, there's one. Two, three, and they are just going in the holes. I'm going to start my first one right here. That'll be the top left corner of it is the top right of that previous stitch. It's going to share a hole. I'm coming up there and I'm doing the same pattern of cross stitches because I want them to cross the same way. I'm going over three and down three. That's going to land in that same hole. We've already got two stitches that are sharing that. Then I'm going to go over to the left three, which shares a hole again with two stitches. This sometimes can take a little wiggling to get your needle, not to split the threads, but just to push them out of the way. I'm stitching back. I felt there was a knot. Let me fix that. There we go. And then I'm stitching again from the bottom left up to the top, it shares a hole with that yellow stitch we did previously. So green thread is a little dark on the blue here for this stitch, but you can see I'm just filling the gap in between with large stitches in this other color. So I'm going to start this one the same, go from the top left down and from the bottom left Okay. Now I'm going to continue to fill in the Xs the whole way, fill in those gaps, and then the same thing on this bottom row, we're going to have some little one third stitches, is to fill in where those partial Xs are going to be. All right, so I'm just going to speed up the video and go ahead and fill in all of those big Xs there. So we're making kind of a checkerboard of cross stitches. Okay, there's the finished section of large cross stitches, and I'm just going to hold this still so you can pause the video here if you want to double check yours against mine. And then we'll go on to the last step. All right, so the last stitches are also done in the green or the variegated green thread. I'm going to grab another piece of green. All right. And the last little bit, we are doing little diagonal stitches. But I think the way to remember this is to help you with getting these placed correctly. Is this last pass we are only stitching over yellow stitches. So the only place we're going to make these little tie down these little tack down stitches are on the yellow Xs. Whatever color your first color was. As we look, it's just a little one stitch diagonal, it goes over one square and they alternate direction. We've got one that leads towards the left and then towards the right, left, right, left, right, and they are on every yellow X. And then we go down and we do the same thing on the bottom of the yellow Xs and they're going to alternate again, it goes right, left, right, left, right, left. Then we skip down to the next row and we do the same thing to those yellow Xs left, right, left, right, and then we go to the bottom of left, right, left, right, and work our way back. I'm going to zigzag this back and forth across because it doesn't matter what direction these stitches go. I was pickier about the Xs because I wanted every X to cross the same way, but these ones won't all right. We're going to stop. We're going to start in the top left corner on that very first yellow X, and my diagonal is going to go just across that first square from bottom left to top right. I'm going to bring my needle up right here, one row below that X, where that X starts. So I'm going one square down to bring my needle up. Find the spot. There it is. Bring my needle up and then I'm just going across one diagonal crossing over the yellow. I've got one stitch that leans towards the right, and then I go over one square. I do a stitch that leans down slopes down. I skip the green, and I do that same thing to the next yellow. So I go bottom left and stitch over one square diagonally. Then I move over a square. The dark green part of my thread is just hitting right now, so it's a little bit harder to see. Then I skip the next green and I do the same thing again over the yellow. I go from left, cross over that corner, then move over one and cross over the right. Now I'm going to do the same thing on the bottom of that same row of Xs. I'm from where I am right now, I'm going to go down one square and bring my up. Right there. And I'm going diagonally across one. Then I'm going to move over one square and go diagonally across the other corner of the X. Now you can see all four pieces of that X have a little diagonal across. I'm going to keep working my way back towards the left. Again, I'm skipping the green stitch and I'm only doing this to the yellow stitch. Cross that diagonally, move over one. Cross diagonally. One more time skipping the green cross and going one two or the yellow one. Now I'm going to skip down to the next row of yellow Xs and do the same thing. There's two yellow xs in the next row. I'm going to put those same diagonal stitches across each of those. I'm just going to work my way back from left to right again. Go over the top of the Xs to skip the green. A two. Now we have to do the bottom of those yellow Xs. So I just go down one square and work my way back from right to left. Dig other end, skip the green one and two. Split a three. Okay, now I'm going to continue in pattern. I go to the next row of yellow Xs and do the same thing. So I'm just going to speed up the video until I get to the very last row, and then we'll meet back just to talk about finish. Alright, this very last row, we actually have a few more little of these diagonal stitches to do. And again, it's just over the yellow. So there's a little yellow stitch here, and there's little yellow stitches here. It's basically just going to be one stitch over the same thing we've been doing. But just so we finish out the pattern there. So I'm going to go over the yellow stitches with our little diagonal. I really love how this pattern ends up looking like plat. I think. And then I'm skipping over, and I'm doing this little diagonal stitch, again, the yellow stitches here. I think it's really helpful to do this one in two colors that you can keep track like that. I think it's easier to count, sort of, if you have the two colors to kind of alternate. Alright, there's my last stitch. So there is our finished section of rice stitch. 12. Plaited Feather Stitch (Part 2): U All right. Now that we have this rice stitch section in, we actually can go back and put in our other section of platted feather. It's going to be a lot easier to place now. So we're going to stitch it the same way as we did this other section, platted feather over here. But our two colors are going to be we're going to start again with the aqua color for our first thing, that's going to be the black. Then our second pass we're going to do in orange. And the difference with these two sections of platted feather, this one was three wide and two tall. These ones are two by two. So that's the only difference there. You're going to count over two stitches and up or down two stitches to create that. So I'll get you started on these little sections of plaited feather, and then you can revisit the previous video if you need a refresher on how to do this stitch. So I'm going to start this with the aqua color. Okay, to start the stitch, like we did on the section over here, I want to bring my needle up on the diagonal part of it to start with. So I want to start at wherever the diagonal stitch is. As I'm looking at this, my diagonal is here, that starts the diagonal part of the stitch. I'm going to go over 12 from this line, so this is going to line up with the rice stitch section. I'm going to the right two, and I'm going to go down two from that rice stitch section. 02 and down to. So one, two, one, two. So my needle is going to start right there, pulling it through. Okay, and plaited feather again, we're doing we're going to go starting to the left. We're going to count over on this one. We're going to go two stitches to the left. Nedle goes down, and then we go two stitches down and we're kind of parking the needle. And because the needle went left, the thread goes to the left underneath. And we'll pull through. Okay. Then our next stitch is going to go to the right. So we're gonna count over one, two, and 12 down, so the needle goes down and then down two and pops back up again. And our needle went to the right, so the thread goes to the right. Okay, so following the pattern, we're going to stitch one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, kind of checkmarks. That's how tall it's going to be. And I would stitch the first column and then the second column in the same color and then go back and do your second color and the platted section. Now, I'm noticing on the screen, I have a miss print on my pattern piece. I have one of the V sections like marked going the wrong way. I will make sure that the PDF that's with this class has that corrected. So yours is correct. So ignore mine that's there on the screen. Okay, one more time you can go back and visit the plaited feather stitch lesson. If you need a refresher on how to do that stitch. I'm going to complete these two columns of stitches and then we'll check back right at the end, just so you can see what they look like. Okay, there is our plaited feather stitch, Part two. 13. Tulip Stitch: Okay, our next section is the tulip stitch, which is right here, this block in the middle. And here's what this one looks like. Now on this sample, I stitched it in a variegated thread so you can see there's all kinds of colors happening there. This is actually a one color stitch, so we're only going to use whatever color you have set as your orange, mine is a variegated orange. Tulip stitch is based on a chain stitch. So we're going to do a little detached chain with some extra details. Okay, so first thing, we've got to do a little counting to place the corner, to place the top part. So we're going to start the tulip stitch with kind of the teardrop shape part of the stitch. So we stitch that first, and then we do the stem, and then we put in these little like petals, and then we'll kind of go on to the next one. So I need to place this tip of this stitch is where we're going to start. So I'm going to come two down again, from the block above. I can look at the bottom stitch of that tied herring bone, two down. Then I'm going over four, one, two, blank stitches, and then 12 from the Turco stitch section. We're going to go down and over four is going to place the top of that tulip stitch. I'm going down to one, two, and then over four from my Turocostitch, one, two, three, four. That's going to bring me up right there. Okay. This has some similarities to the plaited feather, plaited feather stitch. So part of this is going to stitch a little bit like the platted feather stitch. So we're going to kind of place the needle to do this first part and park it there. So we're going to go down and up with the needle. And our tulip stitches are I think they're three stitches high, one, two, three squares. So we're going to make this loop, this part of the chain stitch. It's going to be three stitches high. So I'm going to take my needle. I'm going to go down in the same hole that the thread is coming up right now. So it's coming out of that hole. I'm going down in that same hole. But instead of pulling it all the way through, I'm going to take my needle down one, two, three blocks. One, two, three, and pop the tip of the needle up. Now I'm going to wrap my thread around the bottom of the needle and I don't want to twist it. Right now, I can see thread coming out on the left side, so I'm going to wrap my thread so I'm going around from the right to the left. I'm not crossing over the needle. I'm not putting a twist in it. Then I'm going to pull that through. What happens when I pull that through is I'm going to have a loop and my thread is coming out of the middle of the loop. I'm going to pull that loop down until it just sits on the fabric. I don't want to close it up completely. I want to keep that teardrop shape so it's a little bit open at the bottom. If you pull it too tight, it'll just close up and it'll look like two threads right next to each other. Then the bottom part of the tulip stitch, the stem, we're going to go down one, two. We're going to change that. I'm just going to point it out. On these two last ones on the bottom, the bottom of the stem is only one stitch high, but for the rest of them, we're going to go two stitches. I'm going to go down two grids, one, two, and make a stitch down. And this stitch is going to do two things. It's going to make that straight part of the stem. It's also going to kind of tack down my chain stitch. So that's a detached chain that we've made so far. To turn it into a tulip stitch, we now do two kind of slip stitches like we've done with gioche and several other things. And our two slip stitches, there's kind of a U shaped stitch here. And then there's kind of a flatter U shaped stitch here. So I like to start with the one closest to the chain stitch. And so I need to go to the left and down one. So over one and down one. And that's where I'm going to bring my needle up from the tip of our tulip stitch. So I'm going left and down one, left one and down one. So my needle comes up right here. I'm going to slip underneath the stem. I'm just going to slide my needle from left to right under the stem. Then I'm going to go down again one, and one. I go one to the right and one down. It's symmetrical. It's going to be in the same spot on the right side of the petal as the left side. I'm going to pull that through. Okay. And now we're going to do that second kind of U shaped stitch. And this one, instead of going one and one, we're going to go two to the left and two down. Okay? So I'm going to go back over to the left side. I'm going two to the left from that point of my tulip and two down from the point of the tulip. That's where the stitch starts. I slip under the stem. And then I'm going two to the right and two down. One, two, one, two. I like to stitch these going left to right, so I'm just going to do the next one towards the right. And this point of this one is just going to go it's one block over from where my last tulips stitch left off. So my last little petal is right here. I'm going to go one to the right, and that's going to be the top of my next chain stitch. So I'm moving one grid to the right. We're going to do another detached chain, so I'm just holding the thread out of the way. I'm going to go down in that same hole. I'm going to go down one, two, three blocks and bring my needle tip up. One, two, three, yeah. Alright, I'm wrapping my thread under the tip of the needle, just making sure that I don't twist it. So if I cross over the needle, that's going to put a twist in my stitch. So I just want to make sure that I'm not crossing over the needle. I'm just going either left to right or right to left, as long as you're not making a crisscross. Okay. Pull through. Again, don't close it all the way up. And then you're going to go down to one, two, and make a stitch down to make your stem. Okay, then we're counting one more time for the petals from the tip of the tulip. So you're going to go to the left one and down one. Slip under the stem and to the right one and down one from the tip of the tulip. Okay. And then same thing. We're going to go two and two this time. So I'm going to go to the left two and down to which'll be right there. Slip under the stem. To the right two and down two from the tulip tip. Okay, there's two tulip stitches. Okay, we got to do a little counting to place the next one because we're going to go back up again. So if I'm looking at maybe it's easiest to count from this tulip tip. So my second tulip, I need to go over one, two, three, and up one, two. Okay, so it's one, two, three, one, two, will get me to the next tulip tip. So counting from wherever it makes sense to you. Okay. Going down in the same hole. Moving down three. One more time, just wrapping underneath the needle, making sure I don't criss cross over. Pulling through. Go down one, two, Okay, now counting back from the tip again. I'm going over left one and down one. Slipping underneath. Right, one and down one. There. And then left two down two. Slip. And right two down to. Okay, we've got one more tulip stitch in this row. I'm going to tie off after I finish that one. And then we've got four in the next row. And the only thing to remember that's different about the next row is the second and the fourth one that you stitch. You can see the stem is a little bit shorter. It's one stitch instead of two stitches. Otherwise, they're going to start right at the base of the tulip stem before them. Okay, so I'm just going to finish stitching this row, speed up the video, and we'll meet back when we get to the end of this second row. Okay, there is our finished tulip stitch section. 14. Tied Herringbone Stitch (Part 2): Okay. It's a good time now to fill in another gap. We're actually going to do the second section of tied herringbone stitch now. That was the very first stitch that we did, and we've got another section of it that is right down here in the center. And there's a little variation on this. You'll see our first one, we have the stitches going horizontally, the herring bone part. On this part, the stitches are going vertically. We're stitching them the same way, we've changed direction. And when we go to do the tied section on the top, we did two ties, horizontal and a vertical. On this bottom section, we're only doing one set of ties, which is a little one stitch that goes, in this case, vertically across. Okay? So I'm not going to do an entire lesson again about tied herringbone stitch because we've done that before, but I will get you started on this section, and then we'll revisit it at the end when we got it all stitched. Marked on our chart, we are going to use our aqua color to do this section, that is this one, and our ties are going to be in green. That's what's set out here. I've got those colors ready to go and I'm going to pull off some of my aqua and we're going to get started with that herringbone stitch. Okay. I'm actually going to turn my piece. I think it's a little easier to kind of get started on this. If I turn it, easier to hang onto. And we're going to start. The very first stitch of this herring bone pattern is kind of half a stitch just to get the spacing to all work out on the design. We're doing just one little half stitch to start with. Okay, we're going to use the Brighton stitch to kind of help us locate where this first one starts. So I've started it with kind of half a stitch. There's a short one that starts out here. So we need to place the top corner of this stitch to kind of get started. So we got a little bit of counting to do. Um, so it's going to come over from the edge of our Brighton stitch. I'm going one, two, three, four. So four stitches over. And I'm going to count from the bottom of the Brighton stitch section. So from this bottom corner, I'm going to go one, two, three, four, five, six, seven. Seven is going to place the top edge of this. Okay? So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, kind of up from the bottom of the Brighton stitch and one, two, three, four, over. Okay. So from the bottom of my Brighton, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, and I'm coming over one, two, three, four. Whenever I have a big section that I count like that, I'm going to pull it through, and then I'm just going to double count it and make sure that I'm in the right spot because there's nothing worse than having to tear it all out. Okay, so I'm one, two, three, four from the edge of my Brighton section, and one, two, three, four, five, six, seven. Okay, looks like I'm in the right spot. So our very first stitch, we're just going to go over two and towards me and down to. So over two and down to gets us the little half stitch start on this one. Okay, and a little reminder about herringbone, we then go back to stitches, one, two. I'm going to go back to stitches, one, two to start the next herringbone stitch going this way. Okay. And this one's a slightly different size than our first one, so I'm going to count this. So I'm stitching up to this corner. So this is the next line of stitching that I'm doing. So I'm going over one, two, three, four, and I'm going up one, two, three, four, five. Alright, so from where I am now, one, two, three, four. And then one, two, three, four, five. These are nice big stitches. Then herringbone again, I go back or towards the left two. Now I'm going to do that same four, five pattern. I'm going to go to the right, four, one, two, three, four, and down, one, two, three, four, five. Okay. That's got you started on the herring bone. So you can continue. You're going to do three rows exactly the same. They've got one stitch or one square gap between them. Then when you go to do the tie down stitches, these ones only have a horizontal and not the vertical stitch. I'm going to finish stitching this and then we'll meet back the end so we can just review that. Okay, there is our finished tied herring bone section, part two. 15. Laced Wheel Stitch: Okay. The next section we're going to do is this bottom corner. And that is a stitch called the laced wheel stitch, and it's also kind of interspersed with some cross stitches. So this is our first stitch that has three different colors going on. So we're going to do this in three different parts. We're going to start with orange. That's going to be the black parts of these stitches. We're going to go on to stitching in yellow, and that's going to be kind of the lighter gray part. That's going to be these little circles we see here. And then finally, we're going to switch to the aqua color, and that's going to be the X's that are in light gray on this one. Okay, so three different passes that we're going to do for this laced wheel stitch. All right, so we're starting out on this one with orange. I'm going to grab my orange color or whatever color you have assigned to the orange block. Oops. Thread snips were not as sharp as they could have been. And this stitch starts out basically with a cross stitch. So the same stitch we were using for the rice stitch up here, we're going to start with a base of some cross stitches and then we're going to stitch some other things over top of those. So as usual, we're going to locate the top left corner of this to start. So we have a couple of things to work off of this time. I'm going to count from the bottom of my plaited feather stitch. So I need to come down 12 from the bottom corner of the plaited feather stitch, and it's going to be two away from our tied herringbone here. It should line up in line with the platted herringbone. Okay? So just two down from there is going to locate the top left corner. So one, two brings me out right there. So the first thing we're going to do is we're going to make a great big I forgot to tie a knot. Let's start that again. Tie a knot this time. To stitches down. Okay, we're gonna make a great big cross stitch. So the same way we did the cross stitch is for rice stitch, but this one is bigger. It goes one, two, three, four, five, across, and five down. So I'm going to stitch it the same way. I'm gonna go top left to bottom right. Then I'm going to skip back here and do bottom left to top right. Okay, so I'm going to do that unit first. So, one, two, three, four, five, and one, two, three, four, five. It's a really big stitch. Okay. Then I'll go back over to the left side, which is also five to the left, and cross over to the right, five and five again. Okay, so that's the first part. Now we're going to make two horizontal and two vertical stitches. There are one, two that go across, and then 12 that go vertical. I'm going to do the horizontals first. This horizontal stitch is going to start 12 down from that top corner and it's in align with everything else. Two down, bringing my needle up right here. I'm going straight across to the other side of the stitch, so it's going to be five stitches long. Okay. And then I can stitch the other one going back the other way. So I can just go down one stitch, one square and go back across. Okay, and then I'm going to do the same thing with the verticals. I'm going to start at the bottom, and I'm going to go over two stitches or two squares. They keep saying that wrong. So two squares over. Go up five. I move to the right one and down five. So it's kind of a tick tack toe board on top of an X. Okay. We're going to make three, four, five, six, seven, eight of those. And as we check out, we're kind of doing a checkerboard, sort of a style thing too. So we've got we're skipping a five by five square in the middle and then we're doing one more. And then the next row alternates. So there's a five by five square that's blank here, and then we're doing one. So I think what I'm going to do is I'm going to stitch this one next because it's the next one towards the right, and then I'm going to do this one and kind of treat it like it's a zigzaggy row. So I'm going to stitch one, two, three, and then tie off on a knot, and then I'll do four, five, six, and then seven, eight. That's kind of how I'm going to stitch these units. All right. So I'm going to count over. I've finished this first stitch. So I'm going to start this next one at the top left corner. Of this stitch, which is really close to where my thread is coming out right now. Okay? So I'm going to go top left corner. It's going to share a hole with this first one that I did, and I'm going to stitch it in the same order. I want to do the same order every time so that the layers of thread match on every stitch. So we're going top left to bottom right, and this is a five by five again, one, two, three, four, five, one, two, three, four, five. Okay? Then I come back over to the left side five stitches, and I go from bottom left to top right, five and five. Okay. Now I'm going to stitch my two horizontals. So I'm coming two down from the top. And I'm going five across dropped need. I move one square down and then go five across back the other way. Okay. And now I do two verticals. I'm going to start the vertical at the top this time. So I'm coming over one, two from the corner. And I'm going all the way across five stitches. Move over to the right one and back five. One more of these. I'm going to do the one that's in the corner here. I'm going to go up and start it in the top left corner again. There should be a gap of five by five in between these two stitches. Top left to bottom right, one, two, three, four, five, one, two, three, four, five. Back over, it's going to share a hole with that previous stitch. And finish the cross. Then I'm going to do my horizontals. Horizontal. Move down one. Back. And then I'll skip down to the bottom. Go to the top. Move one right. Right there, There's three of our layered cross stitches. I'm going to tie a knot. I'm going to do that same thing again, one, two, three, and then I'm going to do one more row, one, two. I'll speed up the video and we will meet back when we have finished all of these layered crosses. Okay, I've got all of my eight kind of layered cross stitches done. Now we're going to switch colors, and we're going to do the laced part of this wheel stitch. So I'm going to yellow, and we're doing these little kind of loops that go around the center of these. So I'm going to swap colors. So I'm bringing my needle up and you have to kind of push some threads out of the way to get up. But I'm going to come one, two stitches over and one down. So it's going to come up right here kind of underneath the space where all of these stitches are crossing over each other. So you just want to find that hole and push the stitches kind of out of the way because you don't want it. Don't want to split thread anywhere. So I'm just pushing stuff so I can come up. There. Okay. Now I'm going to make a circle going around the stitch. I'm going to go clockwise, and I'm going to weave in and out of these existing stitches. I'm going over all of the horizontal and vertical ones, and I'm going under the diagonals. My thread is first going to go over those two verticals. Then I'm going to slip under this diagonal. Move my thread so you can see. Going over the two horizontal under the diagonal, under over. Then we're going to go underneath this last one and you go under the thread and it goes back down in the same hole that you came up. We're just making a circle around. I'm going to go under that diagonal stitch first. And then just push it out of the way to stitch down, and then you play with the tension of this loop. Because it's just all loose under there, you can pull. Sometimes you need to move it around with your fingers or your needle, but you just want to make a circle that's even that circles the center of those stitches. All right. And I'm going to do the same thing, just kind of work my way in the same order around these stitches. So I'm going to come up again, two over and two down from the corner stitch, pushing things kind of out of the way. I just hold that with my thumb. That might make it easier. Go. Okay. And then I'm working my way clockwise around. So over under O, under. Over, under. Over. Under caught the corner of my fabric. I got a re thread my needle. And then I'm going to go back down in that hole where my thread started. Okay. Just kind of just a little bit. And I keep going. So I'm going to do the same thing. Come up here, and then I can either tie off or just make a stitch down. And I want to do that same little circle pattern around each one of these layered crosses. Okay, there's my last laced section with the circle, so I'm going to tie off that color, and then we have one more set of stitches to do. And that actually finishes what they call the laced wheel stitch. But I decided to fill in this section just a little bit more. It looks a little empty to me. And so what we're going to do is one more set of cross stitches, just plain cross stitches in each of the gaps. So these are marked kind of in pale gray on the pattern sheet. We're going to switch to the aqua colored thread. And these are just three across and three down, and they kind of sit right in the center of those open squares. So these squares are five by five. We're going to stitch a three by three. So I'm going to swap to my aqua colored thread. All right. And I'm just going to stitch a series of crosses. So this one is going to start one stitch over and one stitch down from the last or the very first one of these that we stitched. So this is going to center it right in the middle of that empty square. And I'm going to go one, two, three, diagonally, and then go up three. And back. I'm going to do a cross stitch like that and just fill in each gap. I always start them again in the top left corner and go left and down and then do the second part of the cross the other way. That finishes out our laced wheel section. And 16. Foliage Stitch: Okay, you've probably guessed where we're going next, which is we have a little hole right here. We're going to fill that with something called the foliage stitch, which is right here. And on this sample, got a lot of extra threads hanging out on this one. It looks like this. Okay. This on our pattern is marked as being in our darker blue. So whatever your darker turquoise color is, that's this one for me. And this is another stitch kind of like the Brighton stitch that works kind of in little squares. So it's made up of little units. Each one kind of looks like a leaf. So I'm going to get my thread and my needle and one more time, we're going to count over so we can place the top part of this. So I'm going to start on the top left corner of this stitch. So it is 12 over from our plaited feather stitch, and it's two down from our rice stitch section, so it should fit right in there. And each one of these squares, these leaves we're going to stitch is four across. It's four across and four high. So they're going to make little squares. We're going to stitch eight of these foliage stitches. Okay, so I'm coming again over two and down two so over two from the platted feather and down two from the rice stitch. So it should line up with your plaited feather stitch. Okay. And I'm pulling through. So this is almost a variation on this Brighton stitch, where we're doing a set of kind of diagonal or in this case, a lot of horizontal and vertical stitches kind of in an order. The first one I'm going to start doing is I'm going to do a vertical stitch and I'm going to go four stitches straight down, one, two, three, four. Then I'm going to zigzag back and forth. I'm going to go one row to the right and I'm going to come up one. I've gone one over and one up. Now I'm going to stitch back to the top, which will be three stitches. It's one less than the last row. Then I'm going to go one to the right. This time, I'm going to do one less than the last row. I'm going to go down two, one, two, Now we're going to do the same set of stitches horizontally. I'm going to start at the top and do the two stitch part of it first. I'm going to go from where my last stitch left off, I'm going to go over two, go to the right two. I'm going to come back and meet the bottom of the two that are the two that goes vertically. So I made a little L. Now I'm going to go to the left and down one. So left one down one, which is going to be the same hole where this next vertical stitch left off. And I'm going to stitch back to the right, lining up with this right edge here. It's going to be three stitches long, just like the vertical one it's matching. Then I'm going to go down one row. I'm going to stitch right back to this corner and meet the four stitch. This one should be four squares across. You've got three stacked Ls. Then to finish this stitch, I'm going to come up to the top right corner, that's going to be right up here. I bring the needle from the backside. I'm coming right up here. This would be two over and two up from that last L. I'm going to stitch from this top right corner of my square all the way back to the bottom left corner. I make one diagonal stitch across the whole thing. That is one foliage stitch. We'll do one more. We're just going to work these in little rows of two. I'm going to start again at the top left corner. Go down four, which will be sharing a hole with our previous stitch. Then we go over one up one. Stitch back to the top edge. It'll be three stitches lung. Then over one towards the right, and go down two. Then we go over two, which should line up with the outside edge of all of our other stitches. It should be right in line with everything. I meet the bottom of the other two length stitch. Then I go down one left one, which will be at the bottom of the next vertical. So we're making these little V shapes. Okay. And out to the outside edge. Down one. Back to the bottom corner. Okay, then I go all the way up to the top corner of the square, which is going to be two over and two up kind of from this last little L. It's the other corner. Like that. And I stitch back. To make the center of the leaf. We're going to stitch six more just like that, and they're going to go in little rows they'll be two, two, two that'll finish off this foliage section. I'm going to go ahead and just finish stitching these and we'll meet back when those are done. Okay, there is our finished section of foliage stitch. 17. Butterflies (Backstitch & Algerian Eye): Okay. The very last section of our sampler is the butterflies that go right here in the center, and you can see we have an opening left for them. And the butterfly section is a little bit of choose your own adventure. I'm going to stitch mine kind of following the pattern colors suggested here. But my other sample, I kind of did a variation on that because I wanted you to be able to see a couple different ways. So the butterflies are stitched in kind of a combination of they use backstitch for most of them. So we're going to outline the butterfly shape in backstitch. So we'll do that. They have an Algerian eye stitch, which is this little kind of radiating one. So they each have that in a section. They've got some cross stitches. We've done big cross stitches, so we're going to do some little ones, that makes the body. And then there are two pistol stitches that make the kind of antennas for them. So there's a lot of different stitches going on here, but only a little bit of each of them. I like to start with the outline with the backstitch, and then we'll figure out how to fill them in. So you can choose how you want to outline yours. I'm going to follow the pattern. And so on the pattern I have it marked, the outlines or the main black part of these are going to be in my color, which is marked pink, which for me is actually this variegated blue and purple one. So I'm going to start with that. And for the backstitch, there isn't really a pattern that you learn for doing this. We're really just going to have to do a lot of counting. That's why I left the butterflies for the very last part. So you've had a lot of experience now with counting and placing stitches. The two butterflies are identical, so kind of once you get one set, the other one should be kind of familiar and easy. Okay, I think the easiest place to start the butterfly is the very top of the wing. So there's a little bit of a point right there, and it's right at the edge of the pink block. So I think that's the easiest place to start. And I'm going to kind of just start there and work my way clockwise around the butterfly. All right, so I am going off of my tulip stitch block maybe is I'm going to go, let's see. Where's a good place to count from? I guess I'm going to go from the edge of the Turocoblock I'm going to count over one, two, three, four, five is where my little point of the butterfly wing is. That's five over. And it's going to be two down from the very bottom of the tulip stitches. So not from this point, but the very last stitch here. I need to go two down, there's two stitches between every block, and I'm going over five from my Turoco block there. Okay. So let's start with that. Tarocoblock. I'm going over one, two, three, four, five, and then I want to make sure that I am two down from the lowest part of my tulip stitch. So it looks like I'm starting my butterfly wing right there. And I'm going to recount that because I always do one, two, three, four, five, and then it's one, two down. Okay. So now you just have to follow the pattern for the butterflies. So we're going to do the first stitch, and I'm going to, let's see, zoom down just a little bit. Okay. Our first stitch, like I said, I'm going to start going clockwise. We're looking for corners. So corners where it hits a grid is where we're going to stop and start stitches. So this very first one goes over one, two, and down one. So there's a kind of an intersection right there. So I'm going to go over two down one. That'll be my first stitch. So, one, two, and one and pull that through. Okay, that kind of gets us started. Now, backstitch, once we kind of have done that very first initial stitch, the way backstitch works is we're always going to go to the end of the next section, and then we stitch back to where we started. So my next section ends, one, two, three over, and one, two, three down. So my next corner is right there. So I'm going to bring my needle up one, two, three, one, two, three, and then I'm going to stitch back and meet my previous stitch. This will make sense when we do it. I'm going to go over one, two, three, and one, two, three, down to double check that. One, two, three, one, two, three, pulling my needle up right there. Now I go back and I meet the previous stitch. I'm going to go back down in the same hole. Okay. Our next stitch, there isn't a stitch that goes across the top of the head, so I just skip one, and I'm going to come up one grid to the right. One grid to the right. And now I'm doing a mirror image of this last one I did. So I'm going to go one, two, three over and one, two, three up. So there's the next kind of corner. One, two, three, I Okay. Sorry, that didn't get on camera. All right. Looking for the next corner right here. So I go over one, two, and up one, one, two, one. And back to meet my previous stitch. Okay. Hopefully that should match what it looks like on the left side. All right, next corner is going to be right here. Go over one, two, and down one. One, two, one. Back to meet the previous stitch. Okay, my next one is here. So I'm just going one down and one over. One down, one over. Okay. Next down two straight down. And you can double check yourself here when you stitch that stitch. It should be two away from your edges over here. All right. My next corner is right here, which is down two and left two. Then I'm going to do this little part in here that goes over two and down one. Over two down one. I'm just going to keep going around the outline. I'm not going to stitch this little piece yet. Now I go back out over two, down two. Back to meet the previous stitch. Okay. Down to, left one. One, two, three. I go three straight to the left. Now, one, two, one, two, gets me to right there. We've made it around one wing. Hopefully, this stitch is going to line up so that this half of the wing, those are in a line. Now we're going to keep going. We're going to go straight across one. There's no stitch there, so we're just going to skip over one square. Then over two down two. Okay. One, two, three, straight to the left. Left one, up two. Right two, up two. Left two, up one. Left two, up two. Straight up two squares. Right one, up one. And this should close up our butterfly. We're gonna go over right two and up one. And hopefully that meets up where we started. There's our butterfly outline. Okay. We're going to do exactly the same thing on the bottom one. The two butterflies are identical. So you can just follow the same method to place the other one. Notice that the bottom of the wing here is one, two, away from the top of the wing on the next one. All right. The next part I'm going to stitch on this is I'm going to do the pistol stitches, the little antennas, and I still have plenty of thread, so I'm just going to kind of move my needle over here. I might just slip behind a stitch or so on the back just so that I don't have a big loose hanging thread. I'm going to start the pistol stitch right down here kind of at the base of the wing, and I'm going to bring my needle up at that same hole. So it's right where the wing kind of starts. Okay. And this one to do a pistol stitch, I think is easiest to lay this down on the table. And we're going to go three straight up, one, two, three, that's the spot where our needle is going to go down, but we're going to do a little wrap with the thread before we do that. I'm going to hold my needle kind of going horizontally. I'm pointing towards the left, and I'm just going to pick up my thread, and I'm going to wrap it over top of the needle and back under towards me. I'm going to do that twice over top of the needle and back towards me. So I'm going to do it three times. Over the needle back towards me. We're going to make a three twist. Alright. Holding onto that, just keeping the tension so you don't lose those little wraps you just made. Count up one, two, three, and that's the hole you're going to go back into. And before you pull your needle through, you just want to grab this end that you've been holding onto and just slide those twists so they sit down at the bottom of the needle, kind of tight against the fabric. All the twists are right there down at the very base. And I'm just keeping my thumb on it to keep a little bit of tension so that doesn't come undone. And now I'm going to pull through. And when I do that, it's going to leave a little knot, a little twist right there at the top. Okay, I'm going to do the same thing. One grid over. I'm going to start again at the bottom of the wing, or I guess this is the top of the wing, but that end of the thread. I'm going to lay it down on my table. Holding my needle, pointing to the left. I wrap over and under back towards me, back towards me, over back towards me, three times. Holding the tension on it, I'm going to count up one, two, three grids. And put my needle back down through that hole. There we go. Before I pull it through, I'm just going to pull on the thread to pull those twists right down against the bottom of the needle. I'm going to move some threads out of the way, so I can hold that up and you can see it really well. There we go. I've pulled the twists of thread right down there at the bottom, and I'm just holding it with my thumb and then I'm going to pull through. There we go. Two little antennas. All right. I still have some thread. So I'm going to keep going. Now I'm going to stitch the body of my butterfly, and I do this in the same color. I've got five little cross stitches, and they're just one square wide, one, two, three, four, five, I'm going to do these just to kind of be efficient. I'm going to do a stack of them. So I'm going to start in the top left corner, which is the same place as the kind of base of the wing and the base of our antenna. So I'm going to bring my needle up right there. Maybe. There we go. Okay. I'm going to stitch all five of these stitches. I'm going to do half the stitch first, and then I'm going to come back and do the Xs on them. I'm going to go down one to the right, one down. I'm going to do five stitches just like that. I'm going to go back straight back over to the left side. I'm going to go one to the right and one down. These are halves of cross stitches. I'm going to go back to the left one. Go down and right. Back over to the left. Down and right. And one more stitch like that. Straight back to the left. Down and right. Okay, then I'm going to make the other half of the cross just going the same way. But I'm going to work back up. Okay, now I'm going to do the other half of the cross, but I'm going to work the same way just going up. I'm going to start in the bottom left corner and just do all the stitches going up and making the crosses. This is just the speed cross stitch way to do these because they're in a nice column like this. All right, bringing my needle up there at the bottom left corner, and then I just go right and up one and that finishes that first cross stitch. Then I just keep going the same way. I go back to the left We one up one. It's kind of the opposite of what we just did. Back to the left, right one up one. Back to the left. And lasts one up. Okay. I am now out of thread, so I'm going to tie mine off. I I like to stitch the outline of the butterfly first because I think it's easier to do the decoration in the wings if you have that outline going for you already. Okay, so we got one butterfly outlined. Now we've got one more little set of stitches that I need to do in the same color. We have a little horizontal stitch that goes right here that divides up the wings. I'm going to get just a short piece of thread and do that next so I can get the whole outline of the butterfly done. I would have just done it with the same thread, but I ran out. My piece was too short. Okay. So I'm going to make two little horizontal stitches, one on either side of the body, and they just go from the little indent where the wing kind of comes in and they go straight across till they meet the body. And then I'm going to just skip over to the other side. Skip that row of cross stitches and go straight across here. So now I've got my whole outline of my butterfly done. I'm going to switch colors. So you can do the decorations and the wings in whatever color combination you want to. On this, I marked it, so the tops of the wings on one butterfly or done in one color, and the bottom of the other butterfly is the same color. And then I alternated, you do a different color on the bottoms and then repeat that on the top. So that's what I'm gonna do. On my chart, it's marked that the next part I do is the kind of aqua. Okay? So the aqua color is going to be the dark gray, and for me, that's the top of the butterfly wings over here is all in the little bit darker shade of gray. So I'm going to pull some of that color. And most of the wing decoration, we've done the stitches before. There's a little section of backstitch, and there's a cross stitch in the top of the wings. So we tie this knot. So this little like curly cue is just backstitch. We've done backstitch all the way around the outside. And then there's one little cross stitch there. The new thing we haven't done is this one called an Algerian eye. It's a lot similar to the foliage stitch that we did. Okay? So I'm going to start with the Algerian eye part of this, and then we'll stitch the rest of the kind of pattern. So I'm going to start on the left most vertical piece. I'm looking for that highest point on the butterfly wing. We started on that on this side, and I'm going over one to the left one and down one from that highest point on the wing. Over one down one. Just right. I can see the hole. I just can't get my needle through it. Okay. So it's coming up right there. I'm stitching this. It's going straight vertical three stitches. I'm going to go one, two, three, down. Okay. And I'm making five rays of this stitch that all are going to start out here and end at the center point. So the next one is going to go one over towards the right from where my last stitch was. So I go straight over to the right, and then it comes to that center point. Okay. The next one goes over 12. It's actually going to share a hole with your backstitch. It touches the outside edge of the wing, so it goes over one, two. It's touching the outside of the wing outline. I hold it where I can fabric isn't all flopping around. There we go. Okay. And back in the same hole. Okay. From there, I go straight down one. No, two. Straight down two. I was like, wait, that doesn't make sense. I go down two stitches straight down, or two squares straight down, back to that center. And then one stitch straight down. And back to the center. So if you were to keep going all the way around in a circle, that makes a full Algerian eye. We're using like a quarter of an Algerian eye. Okay, from here, I now go and I stitch this little curly cue in backstitch. So I'm going to bring my needle up at the place that my Algerian eye Oh, no. Because we just ended that. Okay, so I'm going to bring my needle up. The first part of my backstitch goes one, two, three, towards the left, one, two, three, and then comes back and meets this Algerian eye stitch. Then I go straight down two and go back to meet it. Then I go to the right two. Up one. And to the left one. Makes a little tiny spiral. And then to finish off my wing design, there's one little cross stitch that sits just one square over from that. I'm going to move over one square and stitch. One and two. The other half of the wing is just the mirror image of that. So it works exactly the same. We're just doing a mirror image. I'm going to tie off my thread here and then I'm going to stitch the same thing on the top of the wing. A Okay, there is the top of the butterfly wings. Now I'm going to switch colors one more time for the bottom. On my chart here, it says that is yellow for the last little parts, so I'm going to swap to my yellow. And this last little design on the bottom of the wings is just some more backstitch. It's another spiral kind of going the other direction. Okay. And I'm going to start on the one on the right again. So I am coming kind of from this horizontal line. I'm coming one down, and I'm one over to the right from the body. That's where this is going to start. And we're going to do backstitch again. So I'm going to start just my first stitch. I'm going to go forward. So three. And then I'm going to go down two and up to meet it. And then to the left two. Yes. Okay. Then up one and one to the right. And that's all there is for that bottom section of the wing. And same thing here, we're going to do the mirror image of it on the other side. So I'm just going to make a stitch across and mirror image that. So over three 22. Okay. And I'm going to tie that off on the back. Now, the butterflies, you can really have some fun. This is a little bit where you could personalize your project a whole lot. Your second butterfly is going to work exactly the same as the first. But you could trade the colors around and do completely different colors. If you look at your design and you're like, oh, I really would like more orange in mine. Like, do your next butterfly with some more orange. I'm going to follow what's written on the pattern just so that we have an example of that. So I'm going to outline mine again in the same kind of purple and blue variegated. And then I'm going to stitch in aqua and yellow, but I'm going to flip flop the two colors on that. So that's kind of what it says here. So I'm just going to go ahead and stitch my second butterfly, and then we'll meet up when that is all finished. Okay, there's my finished butterflies. And actually, I got almost all the way to the end of mine. And instead of stitching aqua on the bottom here, like the opposite of the top one, I decided I wanted more green. Even though it looks kind of the same on camera, it wanted a little bit more green for me. So I stitched it a little more green. So there is our finished sampler. In the last lesson, I'm going to talk about ways to finish this and what you could do with this project when you're all done. 18. Finishing & Wrap Up: So let's talk finishing and a little wrap up for your project. So when you're all done stitching, there are a couple of things you can do to kind of finish your piece and make it look really awesome. So if you're like me, you might have been stitching and at some point, like, folded over the fabric or you might have used an embroidery hoop and you've got some wrinkles and crinkles in your fabric. So the best way to take care of that is to grab just a terry cloth towel. So I have just a bath towel here as an example. And the reason I like terry cloth is because it's got this plush kind of surface, I'm going to take my finished piece, and I'm going to lay it face down on top of the terry cloth towel. And I'm going to press this from the backside just with my iron and a little bit of steam. And what the terry cloth towel does is that it allows your stitches to kind of stay, like, nice and plump and rounded instead of ironing on, say, like an ironing board, which would flatten and kind of smoosh the stitches. So this is going to let everything kind of stay nice and plump and round. A little bit of steam helps to get the wrinkles out. So you've got a nice finished piece, whatever you want to do with it when you get done. Okay? So pressing from the backside with a little steam on a terry cloth towel. Same thing goes for your small samples. That's a great way to just kind of finish them up. Now, of course, you can use this bigger piece. You can put it in a frame. You can stitch it onto the pocket of a bag. You can do all kinds of things with it. And we'd love to see. Of course, if you want to share your project in the project section of this class, if you're going to use your sampler piece for the pocket of a bag, for instance, I would put another piece of fabric on the back of it just to protect the back of your stitches and those knots that you tied and so forth, especially if it's used for something like a pocket where you're going to be putting things in and out of it and it's going to kind of abraid on the back of those stitches. So just a lining fabric, I like to use something that's similar to the color of my fabric just so that it doesn't, um emphasize the little holes in the fabric, like you can see the light coming through them here. So I would back mine with something dark colored, black or navy blue like my fabric color that I chose. Okay, last little wrap up for this class. Thank you, first, so much for joining me and stitching along with me. Remember that you can use all of these stitches to create your own projects. So many of these were designed to be what they call a fill stitch. So it's supposed to fill as large or as small an area as you want to. So you can be creative, like the book I showed you earlier on in class and use these stitches in many, many different ways. I hope you enjoyed making a modern Black Work sampler, and I will see you at another class again soon. And