Transcripts
1. Magic Colour Slider Card Class: Hello and welcome to the magic
colors lighter card class. My name is Cheryl and I'll
be teaching this class. I'd love interactive cards. Anything that has,
something that pulls or opens or has
some dimension to it. I think it just makes a card a little bit more interesting. In this class, I'm going
to show you how to create some magic color cards. Now I'm going to show you two
different ways to do this and what the benefits
of each one are. Then also going to
show you how to create some custom envelopes
for your cards. Let's go take a look at
we're gonna be covering. This is what we'll be
creating in this class. The first card I'm
going to show you is the traditional magic color card that I have done for years. And in this card, the slider doesn't come out. It pulls to a point
and then stops. But you can see we start with
a black and white image, and then when we open up, we've got our
colored image there. The second card I'm
going to show you is a different version where
the tab pulls right out. The benefit of this is you could have this on your
mantle to display. Whereas when you
have a card that you can't take the tab out, it makes it a little bit
awkward for displaying. I'm just gonna leave
that for a moment. The third card that
we're going to make is the same design as the second one where the
tadpoles completely out. But this time we're going
to step it up and do some embossing and just make
it a little bit fancier. After I've shown you how to create the three
different cards, I'll show you how to create two different versions of custom envelopes for your cards. Just so that if you
only make one or two, you don't need to
get a whole package of envelopes for them. You know how to make
just a single envelope. It's really quite easy. This class comes with a
supply list that lists all the supplies for each
of the cards and has them link to where
you can find them to have them delivered to
your door if you choose. Otherwise, it's just
handy because I will have all the measurements for the
different pieces that you'll need for each of the versions
listed on that as well. Now let's go create some
magic colored cards.
2. Merry Star Card: Stamping & Colouring Part 1: Alright, so the first
card we're going to make is this one here. And the very first step is to stamp the images and
then to watercolor them. So I've got my stamp here, and obviously this can
be done with any stamp. I have these cute little
penny black lines that I just thought
were adorable. So that is what we're using. I'm going to put this in the center of my piece
of watercolor paper. This watercolor paper is four-and-a-half by
four-and-a-half. And the sizes of my card are created based on
the sizes of my stamp. You can alter them for whatever stamp you
have or you can just make, like if your stamp is smaller, you can make the card
dimensions the same, but just maybe make the
window a little bit smaller and that
would work as well. All that to say
you don't need to make only one size
of card for this, it will work for whatever. So I'm using some
black stays on. I'm going to be
watercolor in the images. So the black stays on,
will work for that. If you chose to say color
with Copic markers, stays on, will not work. Copic and stays
on or not France. They don't work well together. That didn't completely stamp. So nice thing about having
a stamp positioner is you can resample it and you
really need a stamp, stamp position or for
this for that reason. After we stamp on this one, we're going to stamp on
some plastic, some acetate. And we want to make sure that if we don't get a
clear first image, we're able to stamp again
in exactly the same spot. So stamp it as many
times as you need it. And by having it
in a positioner, you will be able to just stamp
and exactly the same spot. So my acetate here is four and a quarter by
four and a quarter. It's just slightly smaller. You can make your
acetate the same size minus smaller just because the sheets
are eight-and-a-half. So rather than having a
weird leftover piece, I chose to make my
square smaller. And really it just needs to be bigger than your
opening in your card. So smaller, it's totally fine. I use my magnets
there to hold it in place so that once I stamp it, I can check on the image. And I hold it in one
spot and then press around to check it. I'm just going to remove
that one magnet there. I'm going to take a piece of printer paper and I'm just
going to put it underneath. That image is totally fine. It's hard to tell how good the stamping is if you leave
it on your watercolor paper. But this way you can
tell how it stamped. Now, this is going to be set
aside to dry completely. It's going to take longer
for that to dry that it does for the image to dry on
the watercolor paper. My stamp can get put
away for the moment. And I will clean it off later. Now when I colored, I just did the same coloring
as the back of the package. You can do your coloring
however you want it to be. When I was doing my coloring, I had actually just
thrown my back out. So I was trying to think
as much as possible. But I was wanting to get some
stuff done two, alright, first thing we're gonna do
is I've got my palette here with some distress root anchors. Like I said, you could also
color this with copays. However, you can color it
however you want it to be. I wanted to do some
watercolor ing. So the first thing
I'm gonna do is I'm going to use some pumice stone. And I'm just going to
add a little bit of shadow to the parts
that are white. Now, white isn't
just plain white. And if you don't add a shadow to where the white parts are, kinda looks a little bit off. So it only needs to be
super, super light. And the reason I'm doing
this first is because if you wait until the
other parts are done, you risk accidentally say, touching the red and
having that seek seep and bleed into
your other colors. So much easier to do it first. And not have those possibility
of those colors bleeding. Once again, it needs to be super super light
like it's going to look like it's
not even there. But you do notice
when you are done, how much better it looks when there's some shadow
in the white. And the reason I know that is because when I was
doing my samples, I didn't have the
shadow in there, so I did do that
last and I did have it run a little bit
for one of my cards. I just found that doing it
first is the best for this. Next I'm going to do her face. And if these ones, I like to
use tattered rows for this. It's kind of a pink color, but it's got a bit of a bit of a brown tone and a bit bit
of a peachy tone to it. I just go around the outside and then wipe the excess
off on my brush and then put it on and then kinda spread the
paint around or whatever. And I'm also gonna do
her little fingers here. So same. I just put where I want the shadow to go
and then I brush my brush the excess off
and then paint the rest. Now I'm going to do the read and there's a lot
of red on here. So for the red, I'm
using festive berries. It's just a really
nice red color. If you wanted to, you could
make this hat straight. That's how it is
in the packaging. But I chose to turn it all read. Once again, same as before I put Where am I want my
darkest color to go. I wipe my brush off, and then I spread
the color around. Now, that tends to look a
little bit more pink right now. So I'm just going to get
a little bit more color and basically repeat
that process. I'll put it where I want
it to be its darkest, where I want the shadow to go. Right, wipe the excess off. Because if I don't
wipe the excess off, I'm just going to be spreading
that same amount of paint around and I'm not going to get the light and the dark. I want. Now I'm going to do
little leggings here. Wait the excess off, and then spread
the color around. I do work fairly quickly
when I'm doing this. I don't want that when I
do that dark color there, I don't want it to dry on me while I'm cleaning
my brush off so I wouldn't put the dark where I
want it to go and then say, Go making coffee or whatever. I want to get that spread out. Because sometimes if you
wait a little bit too long, you get a bit of a dark stain
on your watercolor paper. Now I've gotten a
little bit coming out of the lines here. So I'm just going
to use my brush to just brush it
out, lighten it up. Then I can use my paper towel to see if it were to
pick up the excess. I'll do that again
once it's dry right now it's all still
wet so everything is starting to spread
out and I don't want to have a really big
red blotch there. There's a tiny little
bit of red in there. I'm just going to fill that in. I'm not even going
to do a shadow in there just because it's
just filling in the color. Can add a touch of
red to her lips. And then I want a
brown for her care. The brown I'm using is
called gathered twigs. That's a really,
really dark brown. But you can use whatever
color you're wanting, if you would like her
to have blonde hair. Lighter colored here, you
can use a lighter color. Now by doing all this water
coloring at one time, I'm risking colors
running into each other. Like for instance,
that red hasn't dried between me putting the red
there and the brown there. So they're likely to bleed. If you don't want there to be
any chance of it bleeding, you should wait between each of the colors and let each
of the colors dry. I realize I didn't
color in her ear. There.
3. Merry Star Card: Stamping & Colouring Part 2: Alright, last step is that star. And I wanted that
start to be gold. So I am using some
perfect pearls. Now. Perfect pearls are a mica that have a
binding agent in them. So you can use them
with watercolor. You don't need to do
anything other than mix with water because the water is what activates the
binding agent. I did not mean to put
that much water in there. Typically, I'll do this
on a piece of plastic. You could do it on your
work surface or whatever. So same as the other painting. I'm gonna go around the outside with the darkest of
the perfect pearls. Then I'm going to wipe my
brush off and spread it in. I want it to be a
little bit darker on the outside and a little bit
lighter towards the center. Now the other color
perfect pearls that I'm using in this class
is just Perl. You could also use that in the center of this
star just to make it a little bit later as well. And really it doesn't have to necessarily be lighter
in the center. I just wanted to give the star a little bit of dimension
and by having it darker around the edges and
lighter in the center. And just kinda visually does that. With perfect pearls. The more of the Perl you add, the more opaque it is, the more water you add, the more transparent it is. So you have control. If you want it to be a completely solid gold or whatever color
you're choosing area. You have control
over that and you can absolutely do that. Personally. I like
it when it has a bit of transparency to it. But there have been
times where I've wanted something to
be completely opaque, so I have added more
powder and less water. So the last thing I'm gonna do is the little Jingle Bells it a little balls on the
bottoms of her shoes here, making those gold as well. And this I forgot to do red, so I'm gonna do that goal
today. Or for this one. I'm going to let that dry
completely before we continue. We don't want to move on with the card before any
of that is dry. So wait for that to dry and
I'll see you in the next one.
4. Merry Star Card: Assembly part 1: Alright, our image
is totally dry, so we're going to set that
aside for a few minutes. So for our card, we need a piece that
is 5 " by 10 ", but we also need a whole
bunch of quarter inch strips. Now if you didn't want
to make these strips, you could use foam tape that's about a
quarter of an inch. But when we cut this down, we're going to have
a two-inch strip anyways because
I'm going to make two card bases with this.
So I need ten by ten. This paper is 12 by 12, so I'm going to have
some extras anyways. Might as well use that up now rather than cut
those big pieces and then try to cut some small quarter
inch pieces afterwards. Because once we get to a point where the paper
is narrow rhythm this, we're going to have a hard
time measuring those strips, so might as well do
it while the paper is in its full size. So I'm just using my ruler
here and sliding it down a quarter of an inch at a time
until I get it down to 10 ". In this way. By doing this, we're going to have more
ships than we really need. But we can save them for other cards or whatnot
or other projects. So the other side as well, I'm gonna do the same thing until we get down to
the ten inch mark. And like I said, much easier to have too many than not enough. There we go. So now this
piece is ten by ten. For the card-based, I need
it to be five by ten. So I am going to
cut that in half. The other one is
for the third card. This one is for this card. Tuck these strips to the
side for the moment. I need my scoreboard. I'm going to score this
at the five inch mark. So this is five by ten. I'm going to score this
at the five inch mark, which is in half. There we go. Then I want to put a square
in the front of this. So I'm gonna take, I've gotta
set of square dice here. These are spelled
binder, so I've got this small set and
the large set, I'm going to take the
largest of the large set. And I just eyeball it. If you feel more comfortable, you can absolutely take
a ruler and measure it. But for me, eyeballing
is good enough. I've got some dye
tape there just to hold that square in place. We don't want to die cut
it with the card flows. We want to open it up to die, cut it, and run right through. There we go. This piece here is not going to be
used for this card. So you can put it aside with your scraps or toss it if you don't think
you'll ever use it. But we don't need
that for discard. Let's get a machine
out of the way. Now, this card stock
that I'm using has a textured side
and a smooth side. I like to use the texture side on the outside of the card. To me, it's just a little
bit more interesting. So now I'm going to take my watercolor image piece
and I'm going to glue it to the center on the
inside of this card here. I'll put glue on the outside and then a little
bit in the center. Then I'm just going to close
it, makes sure that I have the image how I want it
by using liquid glue, I can move this up
if I want it to. Although I was going to say it grabbed quite quickly there. But there we go. I like how that's looking
in that frame there. So I'm going to let that sit. I'm going to put an
acrylic block on it and let that dry for a couple of minutes before we proceed. Alright, so that's had a
couple of minutes to dry, so it is going to stay in place. So I have got some tape here, double-sided tape, you want to have a really good
double-sided tape. This one is an eighth
of an inch wide, and I'm going to start sticking my quarter inch
strips down on it. So I'm making a little
bit of a U-shape. This is going to
become the channel that the slider is
going to go in-between. The reason I did those
quarter inch strips, same color as the base is. So when you look at the side, you can see that there's
layers of card stock here. But you can't actually see
that they're different. They're not different
colors, so they're not super noticeable. So you want to have a very good adhesive for this to make sure
that they stick well. If you choose, you can
use liquid adhesive. I chose for this to use double-sided tape just
because it sticks instantaneous
instantaneously and I don't need to wait
for anything to dry. I'm going to take the
backing off of all three. For the first layer, I'm starting on the left side of the card and working my
way around this way. And then for the next layer, I'm gonna do it the opposite way, just so that I don't
have all the joints in the exact same spot that they kind of layer almost
like a brick or whatnot. To me. It's just going to make that he's just more appealing to me is basically what
I'm trying to say. So this last one here, I'm not going to put the
strip all the way to the top. And by that I mean,
I'm not sticking it down all the way
to the top until I cut the excess off and
I'm cutting it just shy of the score line,
the fourth line. Now, I'm putting my adhesive starting on the right side of the card so that that
adhesive is going to go over those joints where
the two pieces of card stock meet as well. And I'm layering
this up three times. So I'm doing three layers of
these quarter and stress. So that first layer kind
of brings the back of the card up even with
my watercolor piece. And then I've got two
extra layers above that. And that's just gonna
give some space for the part that we're going
to make the slider OTA to slide freely. I can start with this one here. I'm trying as best as possible
to make these edges even. So when I line stuff up, I'm aligning it with
the lining it up with the outside of the
car, the inside part. Once the card is done,
you're not going to see it. So it makes no difference if they're out by millimeters
on the inside. The outside part is the part
that you're going to see. That's the second layer. So now we're gonna
do one more layer. The nice thing about eighth
inch and even 16th of an inch double-sided
tape or this one, this one is Su Huang, is that you can just rip it so you don't need a
scissors to cut it. When it's the narrow one, which is quite handy. Backing they're stuck. Alright, and let's put
our third layer on these ends that
aren't long enough. I just tossed them. If you
have another use for them, you can absolutely keep
them for another project. Like I said, you could even use double-sided foam tape for
this to make these channels. But what a great way to use
up a bunch of card stock. I'm going to put
those to the side. I'll be used them for
the last card as well. So let's start making
our slider part. So this piece here, these pieces are, my
card is 5 " wide. These pieces are about
quarter of an inch. So I had cut this at
four-and-a-half inches, which is slightly
too big I can see. So I'm going to make it a little bit smaller because
we want it to fit inside this channel here. So you could, if
you wanted to put a little pencil mark or
whatever to mark that. I just cut a quarter of
an inch off of there.
5. Merry Star Card: Assembly part 2: Now for the next
part, you need to have a slide rule trimmer. You need to have one that
has a blade on it that you can stop exactly where
you want it to stop. I'm putting the edge of this card stock at the
quarter-inch mark. And I just know from cutting
this that this was 5.5, five and a quarter inches tall. So I'm putting this
at the core at the five-inch mark and cutting up so that it's not
cut all the way through. And I'm going to
flip it over and do the exact same thing. On the opposite side, I'm stopping at the
five inch mark. And this part here we
can just hand cut. So we're making basically
a t that's really, really wide in the center. What this is gonna do
when we slide this up, this is going to stop this piece from coming out of the card. No, you're not gonna be
able to pull this part out. In the other versions
of this card, you will be able to pull that
version, that piece out, which makes it a
little bit simpler to make and there's bonuses
to having that piece out. But I also like the version where you
can't take that piece out and it leaves some of the
magic in the magic color card. So this piece is
done for the moment. We're gonna take that
same slide rule tremor. I'm going to measure
this here a sec. So this piece here
is 3.7 eighths. So now on this bold line here, I am going to start this just a little bit
less than a half an inch. And then I'm going along that
line and I'm ending it just a little bit less than
half an inch from the end. It's stopping on my, um, it got caught on my
little these things here. I'm losing my English here. So I'm just putting my piece
here just to make sure that I've got the
right width there. It's always good to test
while you're doing it. Lifted off, it doesn't pull out. And it's not going
to slide perfectly right now because we don't have everything closed to keep
that channel the way it is. But what I do want to do, well, this is down or
while this is open. If I'm going to put
this piece just even with the bottom
because that's where it's going to sit when
everything is closed. I'm going to take a pencil. I'm just going to mark this
right here. Right here. We will pull this out. Now when I cut that
channel in the fold line, I can see now that I was
just towards the back of it. So I have a tiny little
flip up on paper here that you probably didn't
even see on the camera, but I can see it in person. I just took scissors
and trimmed that down. So now when I have
my piece in here, I don't have that flip
up of paper there. Alright, to take this
piece out again, That's lubricant get tossed. Now those two pencil
lines that I made, I'm going to line them up with
the cut line on my tremor. But I'm just going to
put those pencil lines just to the outside of it
so that that gets cut off. I am going to cut a line and you can stop this
wherever you want. What I'm creating right now
is this little pull tab. So I've got this cut. It's actually to the
two-and-a-half inch mark on my tremor here. Then I'm going to go to the
three-and-a-half inch mark and cut to the end so that I have about an inch here
where I haven't cut through. Then I'm just taking my scissors and cutting that part off. In order to round it. I have a corner rounder. You could also just
take your scissors and cut this by hand. It doesn't need to necessarily have a corner rounder to it. Personally, I just like those corners
rounded. Absolutely. A scissors could work for that. All right, now let's
just test it one more time before we
start assembling. We go and now we've
got our flipped in. Now we've got our poll tab here. And when we have it all the way pushed down to the bottom, we don't have a piece of, we don't see any of that white. Alright, this can come
out for a moment. Now we're going to finish with
this little acetate piece. Now what we're gonna
do here is I am going to put my stamped
image on the African, the acetate rate over the stamped image
that we watercolors. And as soon as we have
it matching perfectly, I'm taking that some
painters tape or die tape and stamping
that or sorry, taping that in place. Now we'll take our tape and put it right
around this opening. And I always press it down, makes sure that the tape has really good contact
with the card stock before trying to
pick up the backing. Sometimes that backing,
if the tape doesn't have really good contact
with the card stock. Sometimes that when you pull up that backing and you start
to pull up some of the tape. Alright, so one last
check that this is in the proper spot
and it still is. So now I am closing this, making sure that my bottom
corners here are matching. What this is doing
is this is taping this piece of acetate to
the front of the card. These pieces here, once
that is taped in place, they can pull out. There we go. Now, this piece can get
put right in there. We're going to glue this
closed and by glue it, we're going to use tape. I'm going to use quarter-inch. So quaint tape for this just because it's a
little bit thicker. But you could
definitely still use the eighth inch if you chose. You just want to make sure
that this slider piece is inside that channel
that we've made. We don't want any of that to accidentally stick to this
tape that we're putting down? There we go. Any of these pieces
when when you've torn them that have gone on
the outside a little bit. Just turn that a second and then take her
tape backing off. Let me glue this
down once again, I'm making sure that
we've got it straight with the backing there. And now we can pull
this up and we have our magic part
of the magic card.
6. Merry Star Card: Assembly part 3: So one last, two last steps. I'm going to add a married die cut right here. So we're
going to cut that. And then when I first made this, I wrote pull on there and
I actually didn't like it, so I added the bot. I do have a stamp set that
says Pull that is on its way, but it's not here yet. So I will just put the
bow on there for this. But if you happen to have
a stamp that says pull or if you like your writing, when you write, you can
write pool there To me. The tab just automatically
says Pull Me. Like if you ever saw something that ahead of time on it to me that's meant to pull it. But for those, if you're having to give it to say a
child or something that you don't think might understand that that
needs to be pulled. You can use a stamp or you
can write it right on there. I did this married die
cut out a goal just to kind of once this is open, it just kinda ties
in with the stores. There are the star there. But really it can be
in any color that you choose to coordinate with whatever image or
whatever you've chosen. If you're doing
something different than what I have done here. And obviously the
word can be different to one of those things that you can make it
for any occasion. All right, 1 s my die cut. Really wanted to hold on their poke out these
little bits on the inside. And then I'm going to use some liquid adhesive
to glue it down. The main reason for
liquid adhesive here, she can't find a tape
that's that tiny. You could, I could have put double-sided tape on the back of this paper first
before die cutting it. But sometimes when
you have really, really tiny words like that, even adhesive on
the back of that makes them harder to come out. Alright, so that is there. And then I'm just going
to add a little bow to my tab here. I like to tie it
separately on its own. While it's still
attached to my pool. And then cut off the ends. And then you just a touch
of a double-sided tape. Tape it in place
there and there we have our very first
magic color card. So in the next video
and the next card, I'm going to show you a
different way to do this. For the next one, this piece here is
going to pull rate out. And I will tell you then
this is moving now. I'll tell you then why. That is a great idea for
why the benefits of that.
7. Joy Elf Card: Stamping & Colouring Part 1: Alright, the second
color change your card we're going to make
is this one here. So once again,
we've got the thing that comes up and reveals
the colored image. But in this case, it comes right out
so that if you wanted to display your card and not have the tab in
there, can do that. Now, this one is actually
much easier to create them. The other one, That's
why I did the other one first because it's a little
bit more complicated. But I think the fun thing
about The other one is, you never figured out exactly
how the magic happens. Whereas the one that where
it pulls out completely, I think it's a little bit more self-explanatory
are a little bit easier to see how
the magic happens. But either way, the first step is to stamp and color art image. I've got my piece of
watercolor paper again, and I've got my stamp here, and I've also got my
piece of acetate. So we're gonna do the exact
same thing as before. I'm going to position my stamp. Let's put a couple little
magnets on there just to make sure that
it stays in place. I'm using black stays on again because I'm going
to watercolor again. I'm leaving the
coloring method for each one of the cards
the same just because I know it does take a little bit longer to assemble the
cards and I didn't want the class to be hours long by teaching
different coloring methods. But you can color your
image however you want. It's not going to affect the
functionality of your card. Stamp it again just
to get a nice, good, clean image there. So once again, I'm going to put my acetate piece on top of it. So my watercolor paper is four and a 4.5
by four-and-a-half. And my acetate pieces, four and a quarter by
four and a quarter. And that's just
because of the sizes of the paper that I was using. The watercolor pad
I had was 9 " wide, so it's very easy to
make it 4.5 " wide and the acetate sheet
was 8.5 " wide. So rather than having a
four inch strip left, I just made it a little bit smaller because it
doesn't actually need to be full-sized
for this card. Once again, before we
take anything off, I'm just going to
take that one magnet and just test the image. So we've got a nice
clean image there. So our acetate piece can be put to the side to completely dry. We will start watering,
water coloring our little alpha1
ornament image. Once again, I kept
it very similar to the back of the packaging. Just for simplicity sake. I have my distress
root anchors again, even to do watercolor and you can use Shift
different things. There's watercolor
crayons that you can use. However you choose. I like to use the distress
we increase simply because, um, it's a product
that I already have to rethink my ink pads. And I always love it when
products do more than one job. So just like the first one, I'm going to start with adding
the shadow to the white. And this is the sample. Sorry, I got a little
frog, frog in my throat. This is the sample where
I did it last and I had a little bit
of bleeding and it actually is just on this hat, but some of the hair
blue-eyed and some of the green from
underneath the hat blood. So I would recommend
doing it first so that it can dry a little
bit before you work on some of the other areas of the card. Same as the first one. My method of water coloring is very is the same each time. I'm putting my color where I
want it to be the darkest. And then I am
wiping my brush off and going to the next
color and lightening it. So now I'm going to do the red and the red
that I use is Festival. When I am starting an image, I'd like to do this. So I keep track of exactly
what colors that I am using. Just the off chance that by
the time I go and create my card or whatnot,
I'm forgetting. So I always like to keep a little scrap there and a
little a little cheat sheet. Those scraps, I don't cut them. Just for that. Typically when you're
using watercolor paper, like I said before, the one
that I use is 9 " wide. So my paper is cut to
four-and-a-half inches. But if I'm doing a card, most of the time my image piece is 3.3 quarters inches
or 4 " or whatever. So I have a little bit
that gets cut off. Those pieces are
getting are saved for that particular reason. Sometimes, even while
you're doing it, you're trying to figure
out what color you want for a particular, particular part in
which would look best. And that's the perfect way to do it because you're
not actually. Coloring it onto your
completed project or the project
you're working on. But it's a good way to
test colors and see if you like how they are going to
look on your final project. Just another way of using
some of your scraps up. There we go. Much easier to do that
and then possibly realize that it's
the wrong color or that's not what
you were thinking. Then to have to
restart water coloring your image for that same reason. Alright, so my read
is done there. I'm just going to clean
my brush off completely. So this water brush here has
water rate and the handle, and it's my favorite
water brush. And the reason is when I want to go do another color, I
just squeeze some water, rub my brush on my paper towel, and I have a clean brush
and I can continue going to the next color. I am very much a klutz. So having an open container of water to wash my brushes then is kind of like an accident
waiting to happen. So for me this is a perfect way to not have
an open water or open, open bottle of water
sitting on my desk. So the color that I'm using for the skin here is tattered rows. It's just kind of a
peachy, pinky color. Obviously, you can
make your skin tone whatever you like and that
suits what you're going for. I just realized I don't have my little berries here colored. I want to color
the lips read too, but I also want to
wait for this paint. The skin color of the face color to dry before doing that because if I put that
on there right now, it is going to just bleed
rate into the face. Alright, so I'm gonna do a little bit of
green right here. So the green that I'm using
is called peel paint. I chose it simply
because it matched perfectly with the
card stock that I had for the card base. But it is one of my
favorite greens for using for like a nice Christmas green. To me, it's one of the ones that looks the most
natural to greenery. Alright, when I colored it out, I lost a lot of that dark part. So just if you've already filled in the rest of the space and
you kinda figure you're losing some
of the dark part. All you need to do is poke
your brush into some of that dark area and then.it on. And because that area is wet because you were already
spread your paint out, it will automatically start
spreading out from there. Alright, now, little leggings. Once again doing the
dark part first. So it would be dark
right under that for there we go. So like here I lost some
of the dark part there. So just taking some
of that dark part or dark color on your brush
and dotting it on there. It just immediately starts
blending itself in there. Touch more right here. We go.
8. Joy Elf Card: Stamping & Colouring Part 2: I'm going to do the hair. I'm going to use the
gathered tweaks that I used with the last one, but I'm also going
to go back over it and use some scattered straw, which is kind of like
a pale yellow color just to lighten it
up a little bit. So put them together,
twigs in there. I didn't blend it out
because I'm going to go back in with this one. I just wanted it
to be a little bit lighter than the last one. You can see that it
is blending rate into like it's starting to spread rate into my
skin color there. I don't actually
really mind that. And if you're worried about that and don't
want that to happen, just wait till your skin
color is completely dry. Now I happened to get a
little bit of green there, so I'm just fixing that. I'm going to put a touch
of green gesture rate, where the hat attaches to
the palm, palm at the end. And a little lip color. Just a little touch. And then the last step is the perfect pearls
for the ornaments. And oh, there it is. And the top of the ornament. So I'm gonna do the gold first. I often will use
these perfect pearls on my mat or whatever
to blend them. And I saw an idea recently where they just did it in the
cap like that and I really quite liked it because it just keeps everything neater. And obviously, every
single container has its own cap so that way you don't have to
clean it up at the end. You can leave it in the lid and rehydrate it to
use again next time. So putting the dark area on the outside and now I'm going to mix up some of
the lighter color. I'm just going to
make the inside of the ornament lighter. With the lighter color. This is called perfect pearl. It's just a pearl color. I'm going to put some of
that purple color down and then I'm going to start
blending the gold into it. It's gonna be easier or
harder depending on how much of the how much
water you have in it. If you have it
very, very liquid, it's gonna be a lot easier
to mix the two colors together than if you have
it very thick and opaque. But the nice thing
is you can easily add just a touch more water to it as you're working
the two together. And I am trying to blend
that gold into the parole. I don't really want to
have a white center here. I'm trying to have a light gold in the center and
then a darker gold on the outside. Alright,
there we go. So I'm just gonna say,
or images colored, but it's not just going to add a little bit of
gold to the little, I'm assuming that they're
little bells on the shoe. But you can always do it white
as if it was a palm, palm. There we go. That is colored. I'm going to let that
dry completely before we continue on while
that is drying, I'm going to leave these
open and let that dry completely just
because this one here, I added a quite a bit
of water and if I was still close it right now, I would be possibly getting drops of water
into my perfect Pro. So I'm going to let that
dry while this is drying, and we'll see you
in the next video to assemble our car together.
9. Joy Elf Card: Assembly Part 1: Alright, so our watercolor
image is completely dry, so we'll set that
aside for a while. So I have my piece
of card stock here that is five by ten. And while I was cutting it down, I got a bunch of
quarter inch strip, just like the first card. I'm actually going to take
this piece of five by ten card stock and I'm going to cut it in half for this card. We don't need to make
that slot on the top, so we can just cut
that rate in half. Put that to the side. For this one, I'm going to
decorate the front with just a little bit of a
shiny gold mirror paper. I am going to put a square dy on there and I'm going to
hold it in place with some dye tape and then run that through
my die cut machine. You to take one of
these pieces of five-by-five card stock
for my card base. And I'm also going to
cut a square out of it. Now this squares a
little bit smaller than the one that I
have on my gold piece. Because I want to be able
to see a little bit of that green on the inside there. So teeth that in place
so it doesn't shift. And once again, I eyeball them. If you are more comfortable, you can use a ruler to make
sure everything is perfect. This guy through. And then same for the gold one. Move my machine out of the way. Alright, so we've got our
opening for the front. Now my image is slightly bigger than my square here, and
that's totally fine. If you prefer, you can
choose a smaller image. I'm going to take some glue, glue that into place. And the way I'm
going to place it exactly how I just laid
it behind that frame. So I know that what I'm
going to see in there is exactly what I want to
see in my finished card. If I were to just put it in
here and then just lay it, then I might not get I might
have it off a little bit. By doing it that
way. I know that I have exactly the image
that I want to see. Then I'm going to put three layers of those
quarter inch strips, same as the first card. The main difference with
this one is we don't have that upper part
attached to it. Completely attached
because we're not going to create an insert
that stays in. There. Got a little bit
funny in the corner, but it will be fine. And if there's any adhesive didn't go over the edge there
day adhesive over the edge. You can just use your
finger to fold it back. Alright, so I'm
going to create a U here with these
quarter-inch strips. I'm just going to turn the camera off and
do that off-screen because it's exactly the
same way as the last one. I just don't have this
top attached to it. It's not gonna be very
exciting to watch the same thing again, so
we'll see you in a moment. Alright, so my u with the three layers of quarter-inch
crosstalk stock is done. The next step we're
going to do the top of this insert here. So I'm just gonna
put a little pencil where that top end
because I don't really want to see
white on the top here. Now this white that
you're seeing is actually the card
that we're going to glue onto the back
so that it opens up. So you can write a
message in here. Now, the reason this is up
here is because I just didn't actually trim it down afterwards and didn't realize
it until I started filming. So by putting that line there, we can cut this down. Now, I'm realizing that I cut this piece here a
little bit too long. I want to this tab
here to be about a half an inch taller
than my card. I don't want it to be
really, really big. So once again, I'm
going to go in up until wherever you
want your tab to go. You're just going
to leave an inch where you don't cut it. So for this one here, I went to the two inch mark and then started again at
the three inch mark. And then I'm gonna
take my scissors and cut straight down
to remove those pieces. Then use a corner rounder to coordinate the
efforts around the edges. And once again, you can
just use scissors to round them if you don't
have a corner rounder, It's not really that hard to do. It's just quite convenient to have a pair of
scissors there. Alright, so our insert
here fits perfectly. So now we can put our acetate piece into
our front window here. So these pieces of
tape that I use to glue the die to the paper, and typically I
would be a little bit more careful removing them. So you're going to move
your acetate peace until it matches your watercolor
piece perfectly. And tape it in place with the ends of the
tape sticking out. Because remember, we're
going to want to pull those out so that they don't stick into our card
or stay in our card. And then use some tape
around the window here. Here we go. Just turned it a
quarter turn because in my cutting of five-by-five, one of the edges
is probably about like just a hair too wide,
so I didn't want that. I want to do it on
the top so that I can cut it down later if I need to. Making that nice. And even with the
bottom, there we go. Pull that out and then add
the tape to the back here. That one's a little bit wide. I've got a few different types that are different widths here. That one's perfect there. This one is a quarter of an
inch wide, this tape here, but it fits perfectly on
those quarter inch strips. This one could have been used
to glue those pieces up, but I typically like to use
this eighth of an inch one, just so that I don't
have to worry too much about having exposed
tape on the side. And I'm just going to put
those to the side here. I'm gonna glue the
bottom one in place first and then remove those
other ones because I don't want make sure that your image
pieces on there correctly. Now it should completely line up when you line up the bottom. Just because I've lined up the bottom when I was
putting that piece on there. Always good to double-check
while you're putting it down. Alright, That does sound. Our insert here flips right in there and once
again comes completely out.
10. Joy Elf Card: Assembly Part 2: Now you could end
your card here. But what I want to do is
add a card on the back. And when I say Andrew Card
here and they still have to add the gold frame
and the joy die cut. But I wanted to add a
car to the back of it. And what this is going to
do as well as being able to add a message inside or
write something inside. It's also going to
give it something like this so that
it can stand up. This is one-dimensional, so it's not going to
stand up on its own. And if you're gonna
be able to pull this out and display it, kind of nice for it to
have its own easel. Or if you would like to call it. Alright, The one thing that I want to do with this one is I do want to add a sentiment. So this one I put to you
and yours because I thought joy to you and yours, but you could do whatever
sentiment you were wanting. Going to use some bursts of archaic and some gold
embossing powder. Grab a piece of
scrap paper here. So first of marketing
is just a watermark ink is a sticky ink that, that embossing powder
is going to stick to until you melt it. Having said that, you don't
want to wait like you don't wanna do this and
then have it sit for an hour before you melt it. You do need to melt it
fairly quickly because the ink will dry. It doesn't stay
sticky indefinitely. There's any powder where
you don't want it to go, make sure you rub it
off before you melt it. Any of this excess powder can go right back
into your container. And then I like to close my container before I
take out my heat gun. And you do need a
heat gun or I'm in Boston Gun to do this and
a blow dryer won't work. A blow dryer will
just blow that powder off and dry up your ink. Whereas a heat gun
kinda just emits heat, emits heat so that it melts. When you use the heat
gun on your papers, sometimes it does
work like that. So I like to just kinda
throw it along the back just to try to flatten it out. Sometimes it works
better than others. And often when you glue it down to something
and hold it down, it will make sure that everything is
situated properly. Glue your car to the back. And I am going to put my frame there and my
joy to IC die cut there. And then what I'm gonna do
is take an acrylic block and just hold it down
while it dries. There. We've got our gold frame. You can see the green
on the inside part of it as well as the outside. And put your adhesive on
the back of your die cut. Once again, they really do liquid adhesive on
a die cut like this, where you would
like on your card. So I'm gonna put
an acrylic block on there just to hold everything in place and weigh it
down while it dries. I also like to put something
heavy on top of it. So there you go. Once you're done, you've
got your card on the back, your slider there that
can pull straight out, so then you can prop
it up for displaying. Now, if you by
chance have a little white slit up the
top from your card, put it in a tremor and
trim it down this one this trimer may be a little
bit tiny for this button. I would usually do this
in my larger tremor. Trying to work there. That one's more meant
for smaller things. But that way I don't have that little white strip
at the top there. Super easy fix. And then if you want to put your
insert backend, you can absolutely
put it back in. So you can write pole
there if you want, or put a ribbon or a pull
tag or whatever on there. But there we go. Cute little magic color card that the slider pulls right out. In the next video,
we're going to step it up just a little bit more again.
11. Peace Angel Card: Stamping & Colouring Part 1: Alright, for our
last magic card, we are going to
create this one here. So the tab comes out the side. It's the same one as
the second version, the easier version
that comes right out. We're also going to step
it up and we're going to emboss the image, both on the watercolor paper
as well as the acetate. So I'm going to do the
watercolor paper first. Position this stamp on here. I'm just making sure that that
hanger thing is facing up. We're going to use
some versa Marque Inc, which is the clear sticky ink that the embossing
powder sticks to. I'm actually going to stamp it twice just to make
sure that I've got a nice clear impression
with the verse of Mark. It's because the ink is clear. You actually can't see it
on the watercolor paper because watercolor paper has a little bit of texture to it. I just like to do it twice just to make sure that I've gotten
a nice clear impression. Take those magnets off and
put our powder on here. So do this on a scrap
piece of paper. Any of that excess powder
can come right off and go right back into the jar. And I like to flip the
paper to get any of the excess that's not
sticking to ink off. You have to take it
off before you melt it simply because if you don't, once it's melted, it's
fused to the paper. Put the powder back in
the car, in the jar. And I like to put the lid back on just to make sure that it's not going
to get tipped over. Use a heat gun to
melt that powder. Now sometimes when you bought
your paper can get warped. This one here is going
to be glued down, so it's going to get
flattened out that way. But I do like to run
my finger or my run my heat tool behind it as well, just to heat the back of it to try to even out that warping. Some days it works
better than others. So now I'm going to put
my acetate piece in and I'm just going to leave it just will actually want to
put it right into the corner. Just so that if I don't get
a clear impression the first time I can do it again. And once again, my acetate
is bigger than my opening, so I've gotten a little
bit of excess there. Now I am heat
embossing on acetate, so you need to make
sure that you use acetate that is heat resistant. And the acetate is
actually quite easy to see the impression of the
stamped image on there. So you can make sure that
you've got a nice, clean image. Now, the one thing
that I was going to do before I stamped
on here was used my anti-static tool before times so that the static didn't get
attracted to the acetate. Because I didn't do that. There's a few spots
on the inside of the ornament there that
it wants to stick to. Once again, I'm just flicking the acetate to try to
get some of that off. Before I heat it. I'm going to put this
acetate on a piece of clean paper just to
make sure that I've gotten any powder
off that I want to if anything is
still sticking, you can use a brush
to help brush it off. Now you have to use
heat resistant acetate. Because otherwise, I mean acetate being plastic.
Why use a heat gun? It's just going to work. Even though this
is heat resistant. If I was to concentrate
the heat gun in one area, it would still work. So I'm going to be moving the heat gun around
just to kinda get as much heat to melt
that powder as possible, but not concentrating
it in one area, trying to disperse
that a little bit until the whole image is melted. There we go. And it's really easy to see where it's melted
and where it's not. Once it's melted, it goes
from being like a dull, granular looking
powder to a clean, shiny, glossy gold outline. So our embossed piece can be
put aside for the moment. And we are going to watercolor. Our little angel here. No, there's not a whole lot of different colors on this one. Here's my piece of paper towel. There it is. The paper towel. I just keep reusing it
over and over again. Once it's dry is basically
used to clean your brush. And once it's dry, you can keep reusing it. So I will regularly reuse that same piece for quite
a long time actually. So same as before. I'm putting the color where I want it to be
darkest in the area. Then I'm wiping my brush off and spreading
that color out. I'm using the same tattered rows for the skin on this
little guy as well. If I need some darker
areas, once again, I'm just going to after I've
gone over the whole area, I'm going to tap my brush
into the darker color and then just tap it in because
that whole area is wet, it will start to, um, it'll start to flood or bleed blend rate into the
rest of the area. There we go. I'm going to use some scattered
straw for the hair color. I want it to be darker around the head and then go lighter towards the
ends of the hair. And obviously you
can do whatever hair color you're wanting. Then I'm going to
use my red color, festive berries for that
little piece of cloth. Really obviously that cloth can be whatever
color you want it. I just wanted it to be some sort of color so
that it had this image, had a bit of a pop
of color in it. Then I chose red just because I wanted my card-based
to be read as well, So I wanted that
to tie together. If you chose a different color, you might decide to choose a
different colored card base. Once again, just so that they
tie together a little bit.
12. Peace Angel Card: Stamping & Colouring Part 2: Alright, so that is all I
need from the watercolors. And now I'm going to use
my perfect pearls again. I'm going to use the white
for the little wings. And then I'm gonna
do the gold the same way as I did the last one. It's going to be white towards the center and then gold
towards the outside. Once again, that's just so
that I get a little bit of definition between the
lights and the darks. It's much easier if I'm mixing a little bit of
white with some of the gold in the center, but just a little white in
that center, so it's wet. And now look at the
little bit of the gold. Little bit careful around
those fingers there so I don't accidentally paint
little angels hand gold. Alright, there we go. We've got some
nice lighter areas and some nice darker areas. I'm just going to pull some of that gold in with the white, just so that it looks a little
bit more of a goal tone. Let those completely dry
and let my image 1 s, I just realized, I forgot the
top of the ornament there. Don't want to forget this and
I just realized that this I think is a little,
a little halo. I didn't do that with my sample, so I'm gonna put
that gold as well. Let this dry completely
before we continue on. I'm also going to let my lids here dry before it continue.
13. Peace Angel Card: Assembly Part 1: Alright, so our watercolor piece is ready to continue
with our card. So I'm going to take some glue. I'm gonna glue it to the back of our card before I
actually lay it down. Take the frame from the front. I already have the
square cut out of it. It's exactly the same method
as for the second card. I'm going to place my image in the opening
where I want it to go. I'm just going to lay
it down so that I know. I haven't placed exactly
where I want it to. Like I said, I've got these
already cut out because it's exactly the same as the last
one. And it doesn't matter. This is a little bit
cricket on here, but because I like it in
the frame from the front, it doesn't matter if it's
a little bit cricket. Now, I'm going to do the little channel with
our quarter inch strips. Now the last card we
had our tab coming up, so it was a U-shape. This one, we have our tab coming out of the
right-hand side. We're going to make a C-shape with our quarter inch strips. So the methods are
exactly the same. I'm going to do three high. But rather than having the
opening up at the top, it's going to be the side. And you can change that to whatever side you
want if you liked it at the top and you
don't want to change that, you can leave it. You can leave that
opening at the top. Once again, making sure to line up with the sides of the card. I'm going to continue this, do my three layers and
I'll be right back. Alright, that is done. I've
got my quarter inch strips. Three. Hi. I'm gonna take my piece here that I want
to be my tab to pull out. Lay it where I want. Put the little marks right
where the edges of the cards are so I know where
to cut it off. Take my slide rule tremor, just put that aside
for a moment. I'm going to line up
those marks just on the right side of my tremor. For this one, I'm
going to do two up to cut up to
two-and-a-half inches. And then I'm going
to start again at the three-and-a-half inch mark. Once again, you can put that tab wherever you want it to be. For your card. Grab the scissors,
cut those off. Then my corner rounder just
to round those corners. Once again, you
could just use this, uses scissors to
round these corners. It doesn't have to be. Pine should just makes
it a little bit easier. Then just put it in there to test and it's just shy
of the edge of the card. So I know I'm not gonna have
any of this white showing. Alright, now to glue our
acetate piece to the window. So once again, I'm
going to match it up. Now, even though I used
heat resistant acetate, it did warp slightly. That's why you have to be
really careful with it. But once it's in the card, that won't be nearly
as noticeable. And it's also not nearly
as bad as if I were to not use heat
resistant acetate. If you don't use heat
resistant acetate, it's almost like a, you know, those shrinking inks that we created as kids are I created them as kid
or the kid anyways, it would be kind of like that. It would completely warp. You wouldn't actually
be able to use it because it would start
melting the plastic. All right, put your tape
in the center here. Around the window. There we go. Take that backing off. And then I lined it up with
the bottom of the card. When I go and put my car
together, it's placed perfectly. I can take those those
take pieces out. And I keep reusing
those tape pieces. There's no need to
throw them away. And now take the
whole front too. The back of the card. Sometimes the hardest part
is taking the backing off the top of the sieve. There we go. Alright. Make sure you put that
front on the correct way. 1 s, let's line it up there and I shouldn't have taken all of my backing off, but I just realized I did. Before you push it down fully. I just realized that it's
not lined up correctly. I have this bottom
corner up slightly. Let's try that again. And if it's not lined up
exactly perfectly than those lines on your
embossing won't match. So I've got it down here
and I'm just checking to make sure that that embossing, that image is
completely matching. My Insert can go right in there.
14. Peace Angel Card: Assembly Part 2: Now before I put
my frame on here, I want to emboss
the wishing you. So it says wishing you piece. So I just realized I
didn't actually say it. So the stamps that I'm stamping the last card with the inside of the card and this
one with the front. It's all from the
same stamp set. And then the peace, joy and Mary die is often
the same guys that, so those will be listed on your supply sheet if you
were curious what they were. Also just realized that all of the stamps and dies or from Penny Black other
than the square root eyes. Alright, now, need
our embossing ink. So the clear sticky ink
to hold the powder. And I'm going to
stamp the wishing you towards the left-hand
side so that I have room to put
that piece die cut. Can flick it to get
any of the excess off. If there's something where
it's not supposed to be, you can either use your finger to rub it off or if it's
too close to your image, you can use just a soft brush. And then let's emboss that. Now this guy can get glued right to the front
of the card here. And then let's glue
down our piece die cut. Trying to put just
a super thin line of that adhesive on
there so it doesn't see boat. It does seep out. It won't show up on
the card stock because it's completely matte and clear. But as you're moving
things around, if you happen to get some
onto the front of this, you will see it just
because it's mirror paper. And if you get some
of this adhesive on the front because it's
Matt when it dries. You'll see a bit of a
bit of the image there. I'm just going to hold
that for just a moment. Typically only takes a
few seconds to hold it. When I'm done this,
I will actually put a my acrylic block
and my weight, my jar of glass beads or
whatever weight down. So one thing I wanna do on this one that's a little
bit different from the last one is you saw me just put a couple
of holes in there. It's just from an eighth
and eighth inch punch. You don't necessarily need
to put the holes in there. You can put this bow on the
front or on the top of it. But I just wanted to show you. But you can actually
attach it right to card. And a little tip here. If you tie your bot upside down than it usually
works out pretty good. If you tie, if I have
my card flipped over, tied the other way, then the ends would be poking
on the inside of my card. But by doing it this way, the little tails should be
on the outside of the card. Not sure why it works like that. It just works like that. Then last step is just
to cut those tails. You typically do an angle cut. I just think it looks prettier. But you could do a
straight cut if you wanted those little tails. I typically save them
for other parts. I'll just use them as
a naught on there. So there we go. Our
card is complete.
15. Creating Custom Envelopes for our Cards: Alright, so now that
we're finished our cards, I'm going to show
you how to make a custom envelope for them. And actually I'm gonna show
you two different ways to make an envelope. So my favorite way is using
an envelope punch board. It's super, super simple
and pretty much foolproof. But I'm also going to
show you how to do on if you just have a
slide rule tremor. Because not everyone
has a punch board. So the cars that we made or five-by-five with
this little tab here, it comes out to about 5.5 ". I'm going to make a five-and-a-half
inch square envelope. It's going to accommodate
that little tab there, and it's also going accommodate the dimension from stacking
those quarter inch strips. So the first one I'm going to show you is the
envelope punch board version. If you look on here,
There's a chart there. So it tells you this
card size and tells you to cut your paper
to nine by 9 ". So when you're using a
envelope punch board, it has all the information rate on that punch board that
you're going to need. Then you only other
thing you need is a tremor and adhesive. Alright, so now we've got that
cut down to nine by nine, but the tumor to the
side for a moment. The other thing it tells
you right on here is your first score line is going to be at four-and-a-half inches. And it's got a measuring
thing right here. And because we're making
a square envelope, all of them are
gonna be at 4.5 ". Put this to the
four-and-a-half inch mark, punched the corner, and then use the scoring
tool in the channel when your card stock is
shorter than this, it's really easy to see
where the channel is and just to move in and
then turn a quarter, turn this lines
up rate with that little whatever this thing is, that little plastic thing there. And because I'm making a square, I also make sure that
it's up to 4.5 inch mark. Sometimes it's
really easy to get that just slid
over a little bit. Punch score, bunch score. And the mean before we put
her to lose weight this side, we'll round those tips for you. There we go. Now, all of
these flaps folded right end. Then obviously we're
going to want to put adhesive on those as well. Grab my adhesive. I'm just gonna put them on
the inside of that flap there because I've
already folded it over. I know that that gets covered. Let's close this and
then put it on here. That I like to use that score tool just
to get really good. Folds in there. There we go. Now we can take our card
inserted in the envelope. It's gonna be a little bit wider. But that's totally fine. It's going to
accommodate that width. There we have our
first envelope. Now let's put the envelope
punch forward aside. I'll show you how
to create one with just a slide rule trimer. So I'm also going to create
a five-and-a-half by five-and-a-half inch
envelope with this, just grabbing a little pencil. So I want the finished
size to be five-and-a-half by half the width of the paper. Then I'm going to create here, I'm going to add an answer to
that because I want to have a half-inch flap so the
width is going to be 6.5 ". Then we need to have, this is not the right size, but it's just going to show
you what I'm talking about. So we need to have
a piece of paper this way that is twice
this plus an answer. So five-and-a-half plus 5.5
is 11 plus an inches 12th. So that is going to give us enough card stock to wrap
it around the card both front and back plus a flap
in order to glue down. Now, I typically will do
that an inch overlap. But you could do less than that if you wanted or if you didn't have quite
enough card stock, there is a limit
to what size you can create your envelopes
when you do it this way. But still, it needs
to be 12 " by 6.5 ". Measuring that on the tremor. That excess can go to the side. Going to need this in a moment. I'm going to spore lost
my bone folder there. I'm going to score a half an inch from the sides
on both of the long sides. And I could do it
on this side too. It's just easier because
I'm right-handed, easier to do it
on the left side. Shifted a little bit. There we go. Then we
need to score this way. So our paper here is 12 ". I don't want to score at
five-and-a-half because I don't want this flat to go all the way to the top with the next fold. So I'm going to
score this around 4 " and then add
five-and-a-half to that, so that's 9 ". So this is the size of the envelope which is
five-and-a-half by 5.5. And then I've got
my overlaps there. Now back to the
slide rule tremor. These four corners are
gonna get cut rate out. So I'm lining up those
with the channel. I stop where that score line is, lift that up and then put it back down
where the next score line is on that side and then do that on the
other side as well. Once again, trimming
down to where that score line
is, lifting it up. And then starting again with
the next score line is. Then you could use
this slide real trimer to cut this part. But I find it, it's just as
easy to just use a scissors. You've already got
that score line to show you exactly where to cut. So it's just a matter of
snipping those pieces out. Now at this point, I do
like to round the corners, all of the square corners there. I just think it looks
a little bit prettier. And not everyone, but a lot of people
have a corner rounder. So if you have one, it's easy enough just
to round those corners. Give it a little bit
more of a finished look. Obviously, this is the
same corner rounder that I was using for the card. And if you wanted to round those corners but didn't
have a corner rounder, you could just use
your scissors to do that by using a punch. It's just going to
make sure that all of those rounded edges
are exactly the same. Alright, so the inside here, those two sides
can get folded in. And then that part
gets folded up. Now rather than putting
adhesive on this flap, you could, you
could put a little pencil mark where that ended. It's just easier to do it on this right here because
I know where that ends without even
needing to measure it. And then same with
this side as well. Take those backings off. And there we go with and
put our card in there. And then we can pull
that off over there. Nice score. And there we go. We have our envelope
for our card here. So two different ways
to make an envelope. Neither one is right or wrong. This one is definitely a
little bit quicker and easier, but you can absolutely create your own envelope with just
a trimer and a scoreboard.
16. Magic Colour Slide Card Class Thank You: Thank you so much
for joining me for the magic color
slider card class. I hope you enjoyed
learning how to make these magic color slider cards. And then it's inspired
you some food for some future ways to change it
up and to make it your own. Hope to see you
back in class soon.
Artsy. Island Girl, Teacher
