Learn Flared Serif Lettering: Lettering Style Series Volume 2 | Gia Graham | Skillshare

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Learn Flared Serif Lettering: Lettering Style Series Volume 2

teacher avatar Gia Graham, Illustrator & Lettering Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro

      1:45

    • 2.

      Style Breakdown

      3:36

    • 3.

      Modifying Lowercase Letters

      14:47

    • 4.

      Modifying Uppercase Letters

      16:55

    • 5.

      Class Assignment

      0:54

    • 6.

      Final Thoughts

      0:56

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About This Class

Welcome to Volume 2 of the Lettering Style Series! Throughout this series, we’re going to explore several different hand lettering styles in Procreate. I will show you how to pinpoint the characteristics of a particular style; how to use reference images and how to reinterpret and remix letterforms to suit your needs.

In this class, I will show you how to draw a Flared Serif lettering style. By the end of this class, you’ll be able to build an entire alphabet of both uppercase and lowercase letters, allowing you the freedom to draw any word or phrase in this Flared Serif style.

This is a beginner-friendly class but if you’ve never taken a lettering class before, it would be best to start with my Hand Lettering in Procreate class which will give you a good start with the fundamentals, including all the terminology that will be used in this class and throughout the series.

You can also check out the first class in this series to learn how to draw and stylize Wood Type Lettering.

Meet Your Teacher

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Gia Graham

Illustrator & Lettering Artist

Top Teacher

Hello and welcome - I'm so glad you're here!

My name is Gia and I'm a designer, hand lettering artist and illustrator. I was born and raised in Barbados but I live and work out of my sunny home studio in the southern city of Atlanta, Georgia.

My creative experience ranges from corporate design and branding to art direction, photo styling and stationery design but my current focus is licensing my artwork to product based companies.

I've picked up several handy skills, tricks and techniques along my creative journey and I'm excited to share them with you!

. . .

I can't wait to see what you create so please be sure to post your class projects and if you share them on Instagram, be sure to tag me!

Speaking of Instagram, let's conn... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Intro: Oh. Welcome to volume two of the lettering style series. In Volume one, I showed you how to draw inspiration from a reference which provided a starting point for all 26 letters of the alphabet. But what if your reference image does not include a full alphabet? Hi. My name is Gia Graham, and I'm an Illustrator and hand lettering artist born in Barbados, based in Atlanta. I've had the pleasure of teaching hand lettering to thousands of beginner students over the past several years, and the number one topic most students are curious about is how to approach letter style creation. So I've developed the series to answer those questions one short class at a time. In this class, we're going to be creating a flared serif style, and we're going to pull inspiration from a specimen which does not include every letter of the alphabet. I will show you how to establish rules for your new lettering style based on the letterform anatomy of your reference so that you can apply those same rules to create new letterforms, even when there's no example to follow. By the end of this class, you'll be able to build an entire alphabet of both uppercase and lowercase letters, allowing you the freedom to draw any word or phrase in this flared serif style. Now, this is a beginner friendly class, but if you've never taken a lettering class before, it would be best to start with my hand lettering in Procreate class, which will give you a good start with the fundamentals, including all the terminology we'll be using in this class and throughout the series. Whether you're drawing in Procreate on the iPad like I am or whether you're drawing on paper, grab the pencil of your choice, and let's get started. 2. Style Breakdown: Let's first take a moment to understand the structure of serif styles before we dive into the sketching process. We know that a serif is a small line or foot at the end of a stroke. These little feet can be stylized in many different ways to give your lettering a specific look. Here are a few examples of different types of serifs. With a bracketed serif, there is a smooth, curved transition between the stem and the serif stroke. With a slab serif, the strokes are bold and heavy. Now, a slab serif can also be bracketed, which just means that there is a curved transition added to the bold serif. A hair line seraph. It's basically the opposite of a slab serif. Here, the seraph is very thin, creating a high contrast look, meaning there's a distinct difference between the thicks and thins of the latter form. Serifs can also come in many creative rule bending forms as well. For example, bifurcated serifs are split into two pieces, creating a decorative flare. Wedge seraps have a sharp, triangular shape. A cupped serif is very similar to a bracketed serif, but in this case, there's a concave curve to the sarah stroke. The style we will be focusing on in this class is a flared serif. In this case, the serif gradually curves outward from the stroke, creating a flared shape. If you think of the other serifs as feet of the letter, then a flared seraph would be more like bell bottom pants. Specimen we'll be using for inspiration comes from this book, Vintage Type and Graphics by Steven Heller and Louise Fee. The sample is part of the Sheridan series, which looks like it's been pulled from a manufacturer's catalog, and the date range is sometime around or before the 1930s. Let's first take a moment to break down the characteristics of this style. The high crossbars and slightly elongated letters give the style an art deco feel. This style does have flared cerras, but they're so subtle and so tiny, they're barely noticeable. The crossbars on the A and H are stylized and they have a curve to them, but that detail is not used on other horizontal strokes like the second arms of the E and F. A similar wavy stroke can also be found in the uppercase N, but I'm not seeing it in any of the other uppercase letters in this particular specimen. There's an interesting mix of terminals here. The S R and the number three have very rounded terminals. But then the lowercase T, the E, and the uppercase C, have elongated curved terminals, shaped almost like a sickle. The lowercase letters are tall and quite close to the cap height. And with these proportions, the ascenders are rather short, as you can see with the T, B, H, K and D. There are no descenders in this sample, so we can just assume that the descenders would be short as well. Rather than being pointed, the apex on the A and M are flat. And the same on the vertex of the W and the V, they're flat against the baseline instead of being pointed. Now that we have an understanding of the characteristics of this style, let's make it our own. I'll see you in the next lesson. 3. Modifying Lowercase Letters: As mentioned in the last lesson, the lowercase letters on this original style are quite tall. And we're going to stick to similar proportions. So the first thing we need to do is draw guides to make sure the sizing is consistent with each letter. First, I'm going to turn on my Canvas guides because having this grid on the canvas makes drawing the lettering guides much easier. Now, I like to use bright colors for my lettering guides just so they stand out. So I'm starting with a bright pink, and first I'm going to draw my baseline. Then the X height line. And this will give me the height of the lowercase letters. And we're also going to add the cap height and a guide for the descenders, but I'm going to do those in a different color. And as we discussed, the uppercase letters are not much taller than the lowercase letters. So the X height is going to be pretty close to the cap height. And like I've already mentioned, there are no descenders in the specimen that we have, but I'm going to assume that those are going to be pretty close to the baseline. So I'll draw a line for those as well. When creating a style, there are certain elements of letterform anatomy that will be shared with several letters in the alphabet. And these repeated elements give the style structure and consistency. One of the most important elements to establish first is the stem. Now as a reminder, the stem is the main vertical or diagonal stroke of a letter form. So it's basically the backbone of the letter. Using the vintage specimen as inspiration, let's modify a few lowercase letters, starting with the stem. Remember, as we discussed in volume one of the series, it's super important to use your observation skills when you're looking at lettering and using it for reference. So here we can see that the style is relatively narrow. There's some nice contrast right here at the shoulder of the H, where it goes from thin to thick, and the negative space is quite tall. So to modify this, the first thing I'm inclined to do is to make the seraps much more prominent. So I'm going to exaggerate the flair. So we're starting with that stem, which is going to start on the baseline and go all the way up to the cap height. So for the stem, I'm aiming for a similar width as the reference, but like I said, I'm going to exaggerate that serif. And this stem has a serif on the top and the bottom of the stroke. And since it is a flared serif, it's just going to gradually taper outwards. I'm just going to fill that in so we get a better sense of what that solid shape is going to look like. So we've got that stem established. Then the shoulder of the H would curve over, and then you'll have another vertical stroke here. So rather than redrawing that stem, I am going to duplicate it and move it over. Since the flared seraphs are more exaggerated, I'm going to shift that duplicate over enough so that the two seraps aren't touching. But I don't want it to be too far away because I still want that fairly narrow, elongated look. Now I can erase the top half of the stroke and then create that curve to connect the two. And remember, if you want to add that contrast, make sure the stroke gets a little narrower as it moves towards the stem. Here's a modified version. So we basically kept the proportions, but we definitely have more of a flared serif look, and the negative space in this version is a little bit more open. Drawing this one letter, we've already established a few things the width of the stem, the height of the asenders, the size and shape of the flared serifs and the size of the negative space. Now, with those basic things in place, we can apply these established rules to several other letters. You can not only reuse the shape of the stem, but you can also apply this same shape to the M, the N, and the U. Now let's modify the B. Now, I've already made a duplicate of the H so that I can reuse the stem that I've already drawn. So I'm going to erase the shoulder of this H. So again, the stem is our starting point. Looking at the reference image, the B has a little contrast here just like the H did, so it gets thinner as it goes towards the stem. Oddly enough, it has this little point at the end of the stem rather than going into a small serif, like it does here. So on the stem, I'm going to keep the flared serif on the top. But rather than recreating this point, I think what I'll do is I'll round out the bottom of the stem. So the flare is on the left side. But here on the right side, it will just make room for me to attach the bowl of the B. The other thing I'm going to do actually is turn on my sketch of the H. I've reduced the opacity, so it's just really light in the background. And I'm just going to mark the width of the H. Now, the B will be rounded, so it'll be a little bit wider, but this will give me a good point of reference. So I don't make the B too wide or too narrow. Alright, so I'm going to draw that bowl. And remember, your rounded letters are going to go slightly beyond your guides because they have overshoot. Now, curved letters can be a little bit tricky, so sometimes it just requires a lot of trial and error to get the shape right. And again, it's really important to fill that shape because you really can't tell what the solid form will look like until you've filled in your shape. Now, I just want to see that be side by side with the H. And so far, they look good together. The negative space is similar in size. And even though, you know, we've adjusted the stem here, it still very much feels like they're in the same family. So now with drawing this B, we've established some new rules. We have a secondary version of the stem with this curved area, and we've also established the shape of the bowl. Now we can take that same shape of the bowl and we can apply those rules to the lowercase D, the G, the P, and the Q. And here you can see how that alternate curved stem has been used as the starting point for each of these letters. Now let's try a letter with curves. The lowercase E in this specimen has a lot going on. It's kind of a quirky little letter. The crossbar is angled and slightly curved. It has that elongated, curved, almost sickle shaped terminal, and this crossbar sits quite high. So the top half of the E is a lot shorter than the bottom half of the E. So I'm going to start with an oval shape. And just like we had a little contrast with those other letters where it got narrower in certain areas, I'm going to do the same here. So the stroke will be narrower at the top and the bottom just slightly. And I think this is a good width for the vertical part of the stem, but we'll probably need to make some adjustments. It's rare to get it right the first time. So on this side, I want to match this width as best as I can. And I like this angled crossbar, so I'm going to keep that, but I'm not going to make it curved, though. I like the idea of a curved terminal, but this might be a little extreme, so I'm going to simplify that. All right, so let me clean this up a little bit and fill the shape so I can get a better sense of what it looks like. All right, there's the modified version. And now that we have the shape of the terminal established, it can also be used to create the lowercase A, F, R and T. Speaking of terminals, with letters like C, S, and Z, it can be a bit repetitive and sometimes even awkward to use the same terminal shape on both ends of the stroke. In this case, it's okay and probably recommended, actually, to switch it up and use a mix of terminals. Rather than using the curve terminal at the start of the stroke, you could use the flared serif shape instead. Lastly, let's try a letter with a diagonal stem. This V is fairly straightforward. There is some contrast, just like with the other letters. So the downstroke is thicker than the upstroke, and it does have a little bit of a flare at the vertex and the vertex is flat. It doesn't come to a point. Again, I've duplicated that stem that we first drew with the H, and I'm going to use that as a starting point. So I'm just going to angle that I've decided to make this angle a little bit wider than the original version, and we'll see how that works out. I may have to make adjustments later. Now, that upstroke is going to be a little bit narrower. Now, to add those flared serifs, it's a little bit trickier on an angled stroke because you want the flare to be obvious, but you don't want this to be so wide that it's out of proportion. And since this upstroke is narrower, that flare is going to be a little bit narrower, as well. I'm also going to add a seraph to this vertex where the two strokes meet. This is optional. It's just another way to stylize the letter, but you don't have to have this. I think that actually needs to be a little bit wider. Now, of course, the V is a very simple letter, so there's not much else to it. But once you've drawn the V, you have a starting point for the lowercase W, the X and the Y. As you can see, although we've only sketched four letters, we have a roadmap for how to create almost every other lowercase letter in the alphabet. In the resources, I've included my sketches for the entire lowercase alphabet, if you'd like to use it as a reference for your own practice sketches. Up next, we're going to tackle a few uppercase letters. I'll see you in the next lesson. 4. Modifying Uppercase Letters: This Sheridan specimen has an interesting, somewhat eclectic mix of uppercase letters. Some letters like the A, the M, the C, N, and S are stylized in a very distinct way while others are a bit more basic. Although it seems like a little bit of a hodgepodge, they all work fairly well together. Admittedly, there are some spacing issues in this specimen. You can see here that some of the letters feel like they're a little cramped and too close together. While with other combinations, it feels like there's a little too much space. But overall, it doesn't look as disjointed as one would expect. I personally think that the combination of upper and lowercase letters works best with this style. For the modified version, I want to keep some of the quirkiness of the original uppercase letters, but make the characters feel more cohesive overall. To help achieve this, let's first start with a few general rules to follow. Just like we did with the lowercase letters, we're going to start with the H to help us establish these rules. Of course, the first rule is that the uppercase letters will have flared serifs, just like we used on the lowercase letters. Rather than trying to guess the right size of the stroke, I can just use the same stem that we used for the lowercase H. Since it's already the right length, it goes all the way up to the cap height, and the shape of the serifs has already been set. So I'm going to just erase what I don't need. The next rule we want to establish is the general width of these uppercase letters. Now, we already know that the uppercase letters are not much taller than the lowercase versions, but we still want them to feel really tall. So making them slightly condensed or slightly narrow will help achieve this. So I'm going to go back to that H that we already sketched, and I'm going to use it as a guide for the width of this uppercase H. So I'm going to duplicate that stem and drag it out to about the same width as that lowercase H. And I'll pinch those two layers together. The third rule is that we're going to keep the slightly high crossbars from the original version. Ordinarily, the crossbar on this H would probably land somewhere around here, but we're going to shift that up slightly. So I'm going to set the crossbar somewhere around here. And remember that horizontal strokes need to be a little bit thinner than the vertical strokes to adjust for the optical illusion. So there's a very basic version of the uppercase H. And again, the rules we've established are the flared serifs, just like the lowercase letters, a slightly condensed width and high crossbars. Now, the goal is to keep these same rules top of mind when drawing every other uppercase letter in this modified style. I do want to keep a little personality, So let's make this a little bit more interesting. Instead of using this wavy stroke, I think it might be interesting to bring in the curved shape from the terminals we used on the lowercase letters, and just create a simple swash on this crossbar. So I'm just going to extend this to the left and have it curve to mimic that shape on the terminals. And with everything else, you just make adjustments until the shape looks the way you want it to. And there's the altered version. Now, this same crossbar with the swash can also be applied to the uppercase A and the uppercase F. Of course, these versions with the swashes would mostly be used at the start of a word. When lettering a word with all uppercase letters, in most scenarios, it would make more sense to use a simplified version. Now let's modify the uppercase E. The original version is fairly straightforward. The center arm sits quite high, which is an aesthetic that we're keeping. But I personally don't love the proportions of this E. As a general rule, this center arm is usually a little bit shorter than the top and bottom arms. So the fact that it is the same length as this top arm visually makes it feel like it's sticking out further than it should. So I personally don't love that, so I'm going to make an adjustment there. And again, I'm going to start with the stem that we've been using throughout. And for consistency, I'm going to use the H that we just drew as a guide for the width. So I'm just going to mark a really light line here so that I'll know how wide to draw this E. So I'm going to start with that top arm. And for now, I'm just going to sketch out a basic rectangle, and then we'll make decisions about the terminals later. First, I want to get a good sense of the basic shape of the letter. And again, that center arm is going to be fairly high, so I'm going to draw that about here. And I want to keep the width of this pretty consistent with that top arm. But as I mentioned, I'm going to make it shorter. I'm probably going to adjust the length of these arms even more, but for right now, we're just getting shapes down. Now, that's to start with the basic shape, but of course, it needs a little bit more personality and more style. Now, we've got these three terminals to figure out. Remember the mixed terminals on the C and the S from the last lesson. I'm going to apply that same styling here. So I'm going to add that flared serif to the top arm. So I'm just going to angle this so I can create that flare I'm going to add a similar flare on this center arm. I'm going to make that even shorter, as well. And then for the bottom arm, I'm going to use that curved terminal. This will, of course, create consistency with the other letters we've drawn so far and much like the swash on the crossbar of the H, this will bring an extra element of flourish, especially when the E is used as the first letter of a word. And of course, you'll just nudge and tweak until the shape creates a nice smooth transition. There's our modified version. Now, of course, you could use a more simplified version if the E will be part of a word using all uppercase letters. So now that we've established this curved terminal on this letter, this same style can be applied to other uppercase letters as well, like the C, the J, the L, the S, and the Z. The N, I've decided not to change too much. I quite like the wavy diagonal stroke, and I think it brings an unexpected twist to this lettering style. Now, anatomically, the thickest part of the N is the diagonal stroke. So instead of using the starter stem that we've been using for the other letters, I need to make the vertical strokes much more narrow, but I do want to keep the shape of my flared serif, so I'm going to cheat. So I'm going to use the selection tool. And I'm going to select half of this stem And I'm just going to nudge it to the left to make a skinnier version. This is what I'm going to use for the two vertical strokes on the N. Again, I'm going to go back to that uppercase H as my guide for the width. And I've duplicated this skinnier stem, and I'm just going to drag the duplicate over to match the width of that H. Now, what I can do is use this original stem as a guide for the width of the diagonal stroke, just like we did for the letter V in the last lesson. Now, I can already see comparing to the original, this diagonal is much wider than this, so I will probably need to make some adjustments here. But I can at least use this as a starting point for where to position this diagonal stroke. And then we can work from there. So there's our starting point, and I have to make that wavy shape. So it looks like it curves inward here and then downward slightly. The trick is to make sure that the wave here transitions smoothly into the curve of the serif, both at the top and at the bottom here. So, that might require a little trial and error. I've made my wave shape a little bit more exaggerated, but I think it works. Now that we've got that figured out, the same wavy diagonal can also be applied to the letters M, W, X, and Z. Now, each of these letters is very different. So the wave shape did need to be adjusted slightly to accommodate the structure of each letter form, but the shape is distinct enough that it helps with the continuity throughout the style. Is no uppercase P in our reference, but we can piece together the structure based on the rules we've already established. So of course, we're going to start with our stem. And again, I'm going to use the percateH as a point of reference for the width of the letter. So I know that the bowl of the P will extend to somewhere around here. I'm actually going to turn that back on because the crossbar of the H can also give a general guide for how high up the bowl of the P will sit. So I'm going to mark that somewhere around here as well. And let's see what that might look like. This positioning might be a little too exaggerated, so I'm actually going to just bring that down a bit, maybe to around here. And remember, the stroke gets a little thinner as it approaches the stem here and here. There's the P. It's pretty straightforward. There are not a lot of bells and whistles, and that's okay because we don't need every single letter in the uppercase version to be filled with swashes and flourishes. But even a letter as simple and straightforward as this P gives us a really good starting point for other letters, like the R and even the B. Now, for the B, I kept the top bowl as high as the crossbar of the H. So I just needed to tweak the proportions of the P slightly in order to transform it into the B. I've got one last quick tip. When you start lettering words and phrases, it's sometimes necessary to make adjustments based on the specific word you're drawing. For example, you'll notice that I created an altered version of the lowercase L when I drew the words for flared serif. That's because initially, when I placed the stylized F with the standard lowercase L next to each other, it was creating too much negative space between the letter forms, and I didn't have the option to bring them closer together because they were fighting for the same space. Stylized that lowercase L so that it would fit a little bit more seamlessly with the uppercase F. So remember that once you've established your rules, it's okay to bend them slightly for the sake of the layout, as long as it's still legible and it makes sense visually. In the resources, I've also included my sketches for all of the uppercase letters so that you can use it as a reference when you're practicing. Of course, you're always welcome to modify the style in different ways, if you want to create something that's uniquely your own. Just remember that in your process, you need to establish these kinds of guidelines for yourself so that all of your letters feel like they belong to the same family. Up next, we're going to take a look at the class assignment. I'll see you in the next lesson. 5. Class Assignment: Mm. Your assignment for this class is to letter a word or short phrase with the new style you just created. You can draw a simple pencil sketch or you can ink and embellish the lettering with Illustrated elements to create your final piece. If you need a little guidance on how to achieve clean lines when you're inking your lettering, I share several tips in lessons six and seven of my Improve your lettering class. So be sure to check that out. Please be sure to share your work in the project gallery when you've completed your assignment. To share your project, scroll down below the class video and go to the Projects and Resources tab. Click on the Class Project button. Name your project and upload as many images as you'd like by clicking on the image icon where it says, add more content. I look forward to seeing what you come up with. 6. Final Thoughts: I hope this class has given you some insight on how to pull inspiration from a limited source and then use your knowledge of letterform structure and anatomy to develop your own style from that inspiration. Don't forget, I've included my sketches for all 26 letters in this flared serif style, both uppercase and lowercase. You can find those in the resources, and you're welcome to use these sketches as a reference for when you practice building these letterforms. If you enjoyed this class, I'd love it if you would leave a review. Your reviews not only help me improve my classes, they also help prospective students know what to expect. Don't forget to share your work in the project gallery and look out for volume three of this series coming soon. As always, it's been a pleasure sharing this creative space with you, and I'll see you in the next class.