Knitting in The Round

1. Introduction : Hello everybody. I'm Sara Shuhdy. I am 40 years old. I have been knitting since I was nine years old. Just from watching my mom, who's almost knit all the time. Till I finished my first sweater. Of course, it was the sweater of my doll since this time, I Was playing with Yarn until I finished my college.by the way I'm a pharmacist. But my passion for knitting, crocheting, and sewing. Increased more and more through the days that made me improve my skills in each that allows me to teach crocheting ,Knitting and sewing to my students. And upgrade their levels some of them now are experts I'm happy to be here with you in Skillshare to share my experience. In this class, we will take a look at circular knitting, As circular knitting. Is a wonderful step in Your knitting journey. By learning circular Knitting you will upgrade you're level. And by the end of this class, you will be able to confidently knit in round. we'll not get to shaping or complex patterns, just basics of circular knitting . This class is great for students who know how to knit and purl and are familiar with basic stitch pattern repeats. You will find the pattern and more in your class material. I'm so excited to see what you make. Don't forget to Share your photos. And of course you can ask me any questions along away. In this class. You will learn how to cast on and join in different ways, the magic loop method, switching in around reading the chart. So let's get started. 2. Tips to Get Started: Hello again. During this class, I will learn all of the skills needed to make a project. I recommend watching lessons in order throughout the class, I will be working on knitting samples as well as in the headband, which has the pattern in the class material I recommend to first start with bulk yarn as it is thicker and easier to manage. Also, in a bulky yarn as a fewer stitches that can be finished quickly. I recommend to practice . Each technique first, then choose the one which is comfortable to you, then start working your headband. It is super easy project that can be finished in one day. And you may wear it soon after you finish it. 3. Long Tail Cast On: In this lesson, I will show you how to customize. Took us two on. You can use any custom method you're comfortable with here, I will use the longer tail method. It is probably the most common costs to on that's used. It is easy, quick, and give a neat cost on each in longer tail costume, gonna start with a longer tail. But be sure that the length of this tail is long enough to accommodate the number of stitches you are gonna gusto to be sure what lens you need, just make this system. This is the beginning of the yarn. Great. Make ten yarn overs. Now, this is a length of ten stitches. If you want 50 stitches, you want five times this lens goal that you want to any stitches. I make a slipknot. In longer tail, you have two strands. One is the longer tail and the other is the working yarn, which is coming from the ball of yarn. Grab these two strands and the whole do with the bottom three fingers. Take your thumb, finger, index finger, and place it between the two strands of yarn. You are going to separate those two fingers like so. Then flip your hands. Now. You have the needle in the center between the two strands. The two strands are forming a V-shape. To make your first stitch, you have the outside, the strand coming from your thumb finger in the inside trend of your index finger. And now you are going to start by coming from outside, from underneath. Scoop up that strength of yarn on your phone. So now you are going to go over and around the strength of your index finger, over and around, come up from underneath. And that strength through the loop. Now, you are gonna drop that loop of your thumb and then use your sum to pull the slack out of the urn and tighten it on the needle. Now, you will find that your thumb in the correct position for the next stitch. I will make one more for you. Go underneath this trend of fewer, some finger to make a loop. This loop, then go over and around this trend from the index finger, then drop off. They are then tighten. Now you can see that my stitches are free. Moving. Very easy. And this is the correct amount of tension you want to have when you are doing a long tail costume. So tension can really be an issue when you are costing going to work in their own. If your cost is too tight, like here, it's two times. The first stitch here is to start may have difficulty not only sliding the stitches on the needle Tips itself, but when you are trying to slide stitches from the cable up to the needle, here, as you see here. And also just on age may not be elastic enough. When in the next lesson, I will show you two different methods to join in the room. So see you in the next lesson. 4. Options To Join In The Round : In this lesson, I will show you two different options. First option I'm going to show you is called regular join. To join, to work in their own. So here after we complete our number of stitches in The Long Tail method, as you can see here. It is moved three. Now, we want the first Acosta and stitch to the lowest cost onstage to work in round before joining. Be sure that your stitches not twisted by laying your needle on the table. And be sure that these little bumps of the stitches are all in the same direction and not twisted like that. Okay. So you're all in the same direction. And now we're going to join our first cast on stitch to the Lost Cause to stitch. It is very simple and easy. This is the first stitch. Great. Here you may use this as a marker for the beginning of the round, or you may use as stitch marker. Now you can work as in your pattern if it is knit stitch or listed in our project in this class, the head band, you may have their short cable circular need. And you may work as this sample like that. If you don't have that short cable needle, then it only cable needle. So you can't configure your stitches like that. We will use another technique which is called magic loop method. Okay, next lesson, we will learn how to magic loop. The second, miss it I'm going to show you is called swabbing the first and last stitch. Here I have all my stitches. Costume Tomorrow is circular needle. Now again, you are going to make sure that your cost on edge is not twisted. To swap the first and last stitch you are going to become your needle. And with your yard right needle, you are going to slip. The first stitch from your left needle. Boo was like so. And then you are going to backup the stitch underneath it and you are going to slip it over that top stitch. But don't drop it off the needle. And also be careful to not drop the stitch that you are sleeping. Go over and it looks like this. Bird wise. Then the exists. Okay. So now you are going to bless you are beginning. I want to stitch marker and you are going to place it on your right-hand needed. And now you are ready to start your first stitch and start knitting. See you in the next lesson. 5. The Magical Magic Loop for Knitting in The Round: How to cost to own for the magic loop method. So remember we are gonna start with one extra long circular need that's 32 inch or longer. So again, you are going to cost to own all of your stitches. And then you are going to move those stitches the center of the cable. Now you want your stitches to be divided in half. So you will divide by two. So for this example, I have 14 stitches costume. So I'm going to count seven here. And that's my halfway work right there. So what I'm gonna do is bend my cable like so. And current the severity, the two stitches of the two-halves and pull the cable out. Now, this is your first loop for the magic loop terms lightning moist stitches up onto the adjacent needle tips like so. So now you have your two needles held parallel to each other facing the right. And you're working, yarn is going to be on the needle that is far from you or on top here. So before you pull your needle, you are going to position, you're working yarn according to what the first stitch is going to be. So for my first stitch, it is going to be next stitch. So I am going to go ahead and drag that over the top needle and just kind of late in back. Now, if your first stitch was burned stitch, you would just let that churn the angle in-between the two needles and then also want to make sure that your cost on inch is not twisted around dirty needles. So the little bumps from your costume on each should line up on both needles on the bottom. Like so. So now you are going to pull the needle out from under the stitches. So I kind of hold onto those stitches with my fingers so that cost on doesn't get twisted around. And you are gonna pull that needle out, but maintain your loop on the left hand side. Now, you need to pull it out far enough so you can turn this the needle back around. Because now you are gonna use this needle to work across the first all of your stitches. So I have got my needle pulled out and I'm just going ahead and delete my first stitch like so. Now give you the working yarn a little. There. Go ahead and do work across the first half of my stitches. Once my first half is completed, you can go ahead and drop the needle in your left hand and you are going to rotate your work counter clockwise, like so. So once again, the needle with you're working yarn should be on top. And then you are going to go ahead and pull the cable. Because you want to slide the second half of your stitches back up onto the needle tip. Like so. So you are gonna work is the second half the same way you work at their first home, where you get your working yarn in position if you are going in it and lay it across the back and the walls, the needle out again. And now we're ready to start working the second half of your stitches. So once you have completed your last stitch of the second half, now you have completed a full round. The way that can tell is that your tail is now at the top of the needle and that signals that you are at the beginning of a new round. So to turn your work to start the second row and distort the same way you did with the second half. Slide your stitches. Here. On the needle position, you're working yarn to the back, then moves the needle and then knit. The first. Here is the tail, so the second row also is and so on. To have your tube here. This is your two. And so if the first stitch is burden stitch, don't lay your yarn. Let it hang between the two needles. And then put it over your needle. And Berlioz and so on. Now when you are doing the magic loop method, just to make sure and watch your tension. Make sure you are not pulling too tight on that working yarn. Or it is gonna be really difficult to slide your stitches back from the cable onto the needle Tips. And now, after you know the magic loop method on long cable, circular needle and don't short cable needle. Now you can begin your browser. Rectus the two methods and choose what you are comfortable with and which one will you choose? Okay, see you in the next class. Thank you. 6. Reading Charts in The Round : Now you are well equipped for circular knitting. And no matter which needed set who are using. In this lesson, we will look at the chart and what to do when you stitch better Nebraska cross or need. So when you net circularly, stuxnet stitch is a breeze because you are just working stitches every round. But what happens with the statue? But now with the statue buttons, you may see patterns written out as row by row or round by round instruction. But you also may see them listed as a char. In circular knitting. Using the chart is much simpler than chart for flattening. On circular knitting. Again, you are already working right side routes, so you are always reading the chart from the same direction for each row. That is right to left. So every row you work with be working right to left, butt. With flat knitting, you are basically going to be working right to left on the right side rows. But then when you do wrong side, it is a little trickier because you are going to be working from left to right. Not only that, but you will also have to reverse your stitches. Which means if you see that the stitch or wrong, sorry, draws, you are actually going to burn. And if you see an early stage, you are actually going to be netting and you kind of have to work all that out in your head as you are working with circular knitting. That's not an issue. That's why it is so much easier to work with the charts in circular knitting. So now let's look at our chart again. In a circular knitting, the char, each row corresponds to written out through in your stitch vector. Square corresponds to stitch. Now here you will see it key. And that just gives you a guide to what the different symbols mean. An empty square like so is an edge stitch and a little.in the middle is at burly stitch. Whenever you have a new round, you are going to go up on the chart. Also. You can tell on this chart that this button has porch. And then for round in one repeats, if you are working with a stitcher vector that has a repeat and working on a major clue method, you may want to divide the stitches so that the repeat is not broken over there. Magic loop. Example. If you have 66 stitches and sex, if you divide 66 by two, so you will have 33 stitches for each side of the reader that would break the pattern. So in this case, you would divide your stitches at 30 plus 36 so that you can keep your stitches so that you wanted to break your butter. And now, stay tuned for the next lesson. 7. Swatching for Knitting in The Round : An important thing to do anytime when you are knitting, whether you are knitting D-flat or circular, is to create a gauge swatch gets refuse to the number of stitches and rows there centimeter or where inch using certain signs of yarn and certain size of needle gauge can vary from person to person. So two letters using the same yarn, the same needle size is get different gauge measurements. But gauge can really make or break your finished garment. And it is the only real way to estimate what the final measurement of your garment. Now I know as an editor, it is tempting to cost just to start knitting or bruising, but swatching really based off. So why can't we just make a flat switch? But when we are knitting, stocking net stitch circularly, remember, we are knitting every RAM, but if you were knitting, stocking it in fled, we would be knitting on the right side and burning on the wrong side, toe. For most letters, your net and burn good tend to be a little different. So when you are working in their own, your tension will be different too, because of the way you are moving your stitches around the needle. So overall you're stuck in a ditch gauge, be really slightly different when working circular. So I have here two stock in it, watch, one down flat and one bond circularly. They are both working over the same number of stitches with the same yarn on the same size needed, the stocky net, swatch done, fled. The stitches are a little bit larger and looser than one dawn circularly. But let me show you the final measurement. My swatches down in the round is about mine, about 9 cm, and the flat one about 10 cm, even though it is the same yard and the same size needed. So that's why it is important to make a circular swatch if you are working on. So let me show you how to switch around. Here. Before switching, I want to clear that I start my swatch. Any number of stitches plus six stitches over three for the starting and three for the ending. And store two is three and ending with three garter stitch. Also. The first three stitches, inverter and the lost three stitches or in Garter stitch here to have this stuck in it looks stitches. I do all my stitches in the round in knitting stitch. To have a garter stitch in round, you have to burn your stitches. These three rounds are in Berlin stitch. Stitch. And these three stitches are bird. And these three stitches are awesome. Okay, now you can measure your stitches or your gauge clearly at any point in your swatch. If you forget to do your garter stitch edges, you have to measure your gauge from the center of your swatch, not on edges. And now, let me show you how to swatch in route. 8. To Swatch Circularly but in Flat: This method is called the cheater swatch. Here we work in getting around, but it also similar to working deflate. So here I have a swatch that I have started. If you work in a specific pattern, choose to work two or three beats of the stitch pattern. So when I get the end of my row, I'm going to go ahead and slide my swatch back to the other of the needle. So now we need to get our working yarn back to that front side of the needle again in order to start working. The next true. The way to do that is we just strand that yarn across the back of our routes. Now, you need to make sure that your strength is a little bit longer than what the final measurement of viewers towards is gonna be. As wise, it is going to boil the edges and when you go to measure it, so you are going to strained or floats your yarn across the backside. And now you are ready to start. The neck is true. So this is the tricky part that you have to kind of hold that flew through that lens while you make the first like so. And so that tRNA is gonna be a little bit loose. When you go to the end of that row, you are again going to slide your work back to the other side of your knee. And then you can go ahead and work across the next row. You just need to tug on it like that. Float they honor across the back and continuing on working that way. After you have finished DOTs and bound off. This is what it looks like. So this is the front part that you are gonna measure. And in the back far, as you can see, has all of these really crazy looking good floats that run across this epoch. But you are also two nets like you're knitting deflect without having to do magic loop method and distill be letting your right-side rules only. Which suits save you some time. Of course, there is another method to do this watch, but this is the simplest way for you as a beginner in circular knitting. So when you measure our two or four inch section, just make sure it is close to that center as possible cause your edges are probably gonna be a lateral of gauge because of those strands that run across the back. So making this watch, I know that it is a step that's quite often skipped, but it is really important to have a successful finished the garment. We do swatches to determine our gauge, but also to preview our stitches in our stitch pattern to make sure that our yarn is a good Fred, especially if we substituting yarn in our button. Before measuring, you need to make a quick plot by either submerging in water or spraying it with a water sprayer than dry the swatch by bracing it flat between two layers of a towel. Now, don't hang this watch out or it might stretch and be careful handling the edges so they don't come on revealed after the Swatch has dried through the lay it on a flat surface, and then your swatch will be ready to measure. So once you have made your circulares, watch and done the quick block, you want to measure and determine the gauge or stitches per inch of your stitch pattern. And now, after watching the little calculation, so we will learn in the next lesson how to calculate the number of stitches that I need to start my brush. 9. The Only Math You Need : Hello again. In this lesson, we will talk about little tips for measuring gages teach and how to calculate the number of stitches you need to start your head band. Let's get started. So after blocking your swatch, when you are going to measure your stage, it's the same as infinite swatch. So be sure to count the V shapes when you count that stitches. And now you get that gauge in 10 cm or 4 ". You need now to measure your head circumference. Measure your head like in the sample of my doll. And now, let's get started to calculate the number of stitches you need to start your head band. As an example, if we say that your head circumference is 55 cm and you stitch gauge is in 1 cm. You have three stitches. So simply write your numbers in this form. 1 cm with three stitches. So 55 cm contain how many stitches? And do this simple equation, three times 55/1 equal 165 stitches. This is the number of stitches you need to cast on to start your head back with me in the next lesson to tell you tips for working your head band. 10. Tips for Working The Headband: Hello everybody. In this lesson, I will tell you some general tips to do. Your head band. First of all, your urine position, size of needle tonight, this headband, buttons and the styles you choose to net your head band. And finally, the homework you have to do. So let's get started. This step may seem a little obvious, but it happens to me still, even to this day, you're working yarn should be on your right hand. Need at all times, you may put down your work and then pick it up again and find that my working yarn is now on my left-hand needed when that this means that your work has turn it inside out. So you just need to work back to the other week. You are ready now to go. Again. Start with a small size needle. Make your red edge that gives your elastic. Be sure that your stitches are not twisted. Then change to larger needle size to work is the body of your head band. Then again back to the small size needed to make the other each rib. Also. You may choose to donate your head band all and rape. Or you may play with colors like so. In this headband, I started with rice stitch edge, then shifted to the heart, the button which is in the class material. For your homework, work your symbol head band with hurts, to be familiar with reading and shorts. And even if you don't like working from a chart with flat knitting, go ahead and Detroit using them for circular knitting. And now, share your work. Post photos for your project. 11. Our Circular Knitting Journey: Congratulations, you did it. If you are watching this video, it means you have gone ahead and finish it and learning about circular knitting and shared your project photo for the student project tab below remember, we have all trying to get better at this. So do not be shy, I know this class has a lot of skills to excercise. And if there is one thing I hope you take from this class is the magic loop. I'm sure that's your level now has been upgraded. Thank you for joining my class now you can enter the world of socks,gloves , cowls , hats and many other and advanced projects. And I'm sure you'll do the perfectly. Don't forget to review this class. And if you liked this class, don't forget to follow Me and now time to say Goodbye .