Transcripts
1. 00 Introduction: Hi everyone. I'm Sara, and in this course
I'm going to be teaching you how to knit these socks. So these are a bit thicker than your normal socks
are not going to fit into shoes very well. But the bigger needle size and the thicker wall makes the
pattern easier to work. So they're a good starting
place for making socks. For this course, you're
going to need to already know how to do a
long tail cast on a knit and Pearl stitch and
how to weave in your ends to both a ribbing and
a normal knit stitch. If you don't know how
to do any of that, I have some knitting for beginner courses here on Skillshare where I walk
through all of that stuff. You can go and check
those courses out and then come back
to this later. But other than that, I'm
going to be walking you through the entirety
of the pattern from working all of the
cuffs stuff to making your heel flop
and turning your work, as well as a right and a
left decreases so that you can shape the August of
your socks and the toes. And I'm gonna be teaching
you how to bind off the toes so they very
seamlessly blended together. Be sure to share pictures of your finished socks in
the project section of the course so I can check
them out along with any questions or issues
that you encountered. But let's get into
the first lesson.
2. 01 Project Materials: This project are
going to need wool, a bunch of it because
you're going to have to make a two socks. You're gonna have to
go through all of this again after going through
it the first time, you're going to need a set
of double-sided needles. I'm using 4.5
millimeters for mine. They usually come
in sets of five, are only going to need four
of them for this pattern. So you can, the other
one to the side, a pair of scissors, tapestry needle for when we're binding off and
weaving in our ends, stitch counter or
something that you can keep track of
your stitches with. They're really cheap. And this is just
a very basic one. You'd get more complicated
ones if you want. But you can also just
have a piece of paper and a pen and just keep a tally
of what row you're on. It'll really help
you when we start to make the heel and all of that. And a flexible measuring
tape so that you can make your socks the
size that you want them. And that's all you'll
need for your socks.
3. 02 Casting On Stitches: To start off, we need to
cast on our stitches. So we're going to be using
a long-tail cast on. You should be
familiar with this. So we're just going to take our working yarn and
make sure we have a nice long tail so we
can have enough stitches. Now we're actually
going to be casting on different number of stitches depending on
which needle we're using. We're gonna be
casting onto three of our needles and then have our fourth one for actually
working our stitches. So for our first needle, we're just going to
put our first stitch on with our long tail cast on and we're going to
cast on 16 stitches. Now how many you cast
on may change depending on how big you want
to make your socks. Just keep in mind that
we're going to be using a one-by-one rubbing. So it's gonna be stretchy. So you're going to want
to aim for a little bit shorter than you actually need. But if you want to
follow along with me, just so that you can get
the hang of making socks before you start to mess around with the measurements
and things like that, you're going to start off with 16 stitches on
your first needle. Once you have that, then you're going
to CAS Center next two needles and you're going to only put 12 stitches
on both of those. 12 instead of 16 or for
your next two needles. And that'll be all of
your stitches cast on. When you're done
with your cast on, you should have 16 on your
first needle and then 1212 on your second third. This weird
configuration will make sense later when
we're doing the heel. But for now, don't
worry about this. A difference in the number. You just want to make
sure that you have an even number of
stitches for each of your needles because
we want to end with a pearl stitch once we
get into our ripping.
4. 03 1x1 Ribbing: Now that you're at,
stitches are all cast on, we can start with
the ribbing that is just gonna be at the
end so that you get a nice little stretchy part to your socks so it's
easier to put on. So to do that we're
just going to do a normal one by one ribbing. So that's one knit
stitch followed by a one pearl stitch, super simple. And that's why it's
important that you have an even number of stitches on your needles so that you're always
going to end with a pearl. And he would always start
with a knit stitch, just knitting like normal and
then hurling like normal, super simple for your ribbing. You've probably done this
kind of ribbing before. You can also do a
two-by-two rubbing. So that's when you knit two stitches than
Carl two stitches, it will work the same way
where you're going to end each of your needles with Carling and
then you can start all of your needles
with knitting. So it's really up to you
which one you want to do. I like the one-by-one better, but you're just going to
work your way around with the one-by-one rubbing or
whichever ribbing you choose. Keeping in mind that the
remnants of your long tail cast on are going to mark
the beginning of your row. And you're just going
to keep working around until you have two inches of that one-by-one
ribbing for your cuff.
5. 04 Adding Length to Your Sock: Once you have your cuff to
the length that you want, I actually like to
add a little bit of space between the
cuff and the heel. So on our finished sock you
can see that there's a bit of space between the
finished cuff and then when the he'll flap starts. So I like to add a couple of inches of just straight
knitting in the round. So not doing any purlin just in its stitches all the way
around for a couple of inches just to give
me that little bit of space between the
cuff and the hue. You can skip this if you want something more like
an ankle sock. But yeah, it's just
knitting around to get that extra length before we start into all of
the heels stuff, which is a little bit
more complicated.
6. 05 Knitting the Heel Flap: Now that you have the space between your
cuff and your heel, we can actually start getting
into setting up our heels. So this is where your row counter is going to
come in handy or however you choose to keep
track of your rows because we're going
to have to make a certain number of rows
for the back of the heel. That's going to be at
this part right here. So to do that, we're
going to have to rearrange our stitches
a little bit. So for our first needle, so that's the woman
we put 16 stitches. We're going to slip a few more stitches onto
it so that we have in 20. So we're going to
do that from taking stitches from our second needle. So to do that, we just didn't need to slip the stitches as if
we're going to Perl. So we have 16 originally. It means we're going to need
four more to get to 21234. Now we want to have an even number on our
two remaining needles. We want to have ten stitches. So we're going to slip
two stitches from our third needle onto that second one that we just
took our stitches from. Same thing, just slip
as if to parole. So 12 and then you should have ten on both of
those needles. Okay. So now that we've rearranged
all of our stitches, you should have 20 on
your first needle and then 1010 on your second, third. So too do our heel. We're basically just going to forget about these
two other needles. We're just going to focus
on our first needle with our 20 stitches and we're just going to knit back and forth. So to do this, we're going to just knit
across this first needle. Knit as normal all
the way across. Once you're done
just sitting across, That's our first row. So on our row counter
we're going to mark one. And then instead of
continuing in the round, we're just going to turn our
work around and we're going to go back over
this same needle. We're going to Perl
this time though. You can see that
this is what the outside looks like with the
straight knitting stitch. And then to keep
that pattern and not get into a garter stitch, which we would get if
you were just sitting back and forth like for a scarf, we're going to have to
Pearl Harbor basically trying to match this
wrong side on the inside. So what we're going to do
is we're actually going to just slip the first stitch. So we're gonna take our working
needle and slip as if to Perl to just transfer
that first stitch over. And then we're just
going to Perl for the rest of our stitches
all the way across. And then once you are
finished, Darling, all across, we're going to
follow up our work again so that you can
work that same needle. And we're going to keep track of our rows on
our road counter. For the next board,
just going to slip the first stitch again. So slip it as if to pero. And that's super important
because that's going to help us pick up stitches later. Don't worry about it right now, but just make sure that you slip the first stitch and then
we're just going to admit as normal across and you're just going to
continue that where you're knitting across one row and then curling the next one, making sure that you slip
the first stitch with each row until you do 21 rows. So you're going to
knit one extra time and that'll be the back
of your heel finished.
7. 06 Turning the Heel: Once you're done the
back of the heel, it's gonna look a
little bit odd, but now we need to actually change the direction
of our work. At this point we've
been working down, but we need to
actually start going across instead as we
work the NGSS it. So to do that, we're going
to have to turn our heel, which is probably the
most complicated part of a Itzhak pattern. So I'm going to walk
you through all of the steps for it because it can be super, super confusing. What we're going to do is
still on that same needle, we're going to
Pearl 12 stitches. So basically we're going
to be starting short of the actual end of the row
before we turn our work, It's going to seem really weird the first time that you do it, but eventually you'll
get into a rhythm. So pearl 12 stitches, then we're going to hurl
two stitches together. So you're just going to pero
like you normally would. But instead of only
picking up one stitch, we're going to pick up
two at the same time. So we're just going to
pull those together and then we're going to
Perl one more stitch. And then we're gonna turn our work just like we
were doing before, but we're not finishing the row. You can see if he's still
have some stitches leftover. We're not going to knit
those for this one. For row two, we're going
to slip our first stitch, just like we were doing before. And then we're going
to knit five stitches, 12 or five, and then we're
going to knit two together. So NTID is normal buttons to picking up one
stitch or picking up two at the same time and
knitting those together. And then we're going to
knit one more stitch. Those two places where
we've decreased, those are going to
be at the end of our he'll never going
to turn our work. And we're going to
do purlin again. For this one, we're going to slip the first stitch
as if to Pearl. And then we're going to Perl six stitches and
then we're going to approach two together
so you can make sure that you're in the right
spot because there's going to be this big gap in your work compared
to other stitches. You can see that it's a lot closer to the needle and
then there's this big gap. That's always we are going
to be doing your decreases. Another way to think
of it as each row we're going to be having one more stitch in-between
are two ends of our hill. I know confusing, but I'm going to walk you
through all of it. So after you have knitted
your six stitches, we're going to Pearl
two together and then Perl one more
and turn our work. Now with our knit row, we're going to slip the first
stitch and then we're going to knit eight stitches
or seven stitches. I'm sorry, I'm getting confused. Seven suggests one
more we did before. We get to this big
gap and we're going to knit two stitches together. And then we're going to hit
one more and turn our work. Then we're going to
slip our first stitch for our pearl row. And then we're going to
Pearl eight stitches. And then when we get
to that big gap, we're going to Pearl
two stitches together and then PRO one more
and turn our work. Now for our nitro,
we're going to slip the first stitch and
then knit nine stitches. And then when we get
to that big gap, We're going to knit two together and then knit one
more and then turnover. So for our next pro row, we're going to slip
the first one. Now this is where the
decreasing gets a little bit confusing because we've run out of rooms at that big gap is actually gonna
be the last two stitches. But we actually want to
make sure that we can still stitch into that last stitch. So we're just going to Pearl until we only have
three stitches left. So when you have
three stitches left, we're going to
Pearl two stitches together and then perl into that last stitch
and turn our work again one more row and then we're all
done turning the work. We're going to slip the first stitch and
then we're going to knit until we only have three stitches a
left on our needle, and we only have three left. We're going to knit
two together and then net into the last stitch. You should have 12 stitches
left on your needle. And look, we've turned our work. Our needle is now facing
in a different direction. So that is how you
turn your heel.
8. 07 Shaping the Gusset: Now that you've finished
turning your heel, we're going to actually start shaping the Gosset of the sock. So where most of your foot
is going to be to do this, we're going to have
to pick up stitches. If you remember, with shaping
the back of our heel, we slipped the first stitch. And the reason for that is
if you look at the end, you're going to see those V's of those stitches on the end. And we're going to
be using those to pick up stitches and add them. So what we're going to do
is with our needle that has on our stitches
from turning our heel, we're going to pick 11 stitches by stitching into those
stitches on the end. This can be a little
bit tricky sometimes, sometimes you have
to kind of find stitches or skip over stitches. Sometimes the numbering
doesn't always work out. I feel like I always
have an extra stretch every time I do this with
these v's on the end, we're going to take
our needle with our stitches and slip
it so that it picks up both legs of that V. And then we're going to take
our working yarn and we're just going to pull it over
like a knit stitch and then pull the stitch up and over to create a new
stitch on our needle. That's one. We're going to
pick up 11 along the sides. One so far our next one, find another V, put our
needle into that stitch. So we pick up both
legs of that beam and put our yarn over
and then pull it up and over to John to
pick up so that you have 11 new stitches that
you're adding onto this needle. Once you've picked
up those stitches, we're going to move on
to our second needle and you're going to have to take your ND needle that you have. And what we're gonna do is
we're going to actually put the stitches from
these two other needles. Remember we had ten
on each of them. We're just going to sit
all the way across so that these stitches are
all on one needle. So you're just going to
knit across and nothing fancy and add all of
those stitches together. So one needle and then I'm
just going to keep going with that same working needle
and start knitting those other ten stitches
onto the same needle. So you should have 20
stitches on that needle. Now, now we're going to go
back to picking up a stitches back to those V's at
the end of our heel. And we're going to pick up 11
again with an empty needle, just putting it
into those fees and then knitting through
until we have 11 stitches. Once you have your 11 stitches, we're going to knit
through some of the stitches on
the first needle, the needle that
has these two just from our heel that
we were turning. Remember that we had 12 stitches when we finished off at heel. So we want to end so that we have the middle of our heels. We're going to knit six of
those stitches over that. We have the beginning of a row set to the center of that heel. You can see there that
we have this space in-between are two needles is right at the
center of our heel, and that's gonna be the
new beginning of our rows. So it's not marked by this string from our long
tail cast on anymore. Now the beginning of our row is going to be the
center of this. So I just kind of keep
track of it given that we have pretty
obvious shape. But if you need a little
bit of extra help, you can always take
a stitch marker or a paperclip and just clip it into that center stitch so that it is a very
clear marker and email. Whenever I get to the end of a needle and I see
that stitch marker, that's the beginning of my row. So you can always
have that there too. So now we have all
of our stitches that we need for Augustine, what we're going to have
to start some decreases. I know we just went
through all of the work of picking
up those digits, but now we have to narrow down the Gazette so that
it fits our foot. So you can see here that we have the stitching
and that is are decreasing if you
know anything about left leaning and
right-leaning decreases or we're gonna be
using that as a, we narrow down our Gazette. What we're going to
do is we're going to just knit across these stitches until we only have
a three stitches left on our first needle. So when you have
three stitches left, we're going to knit
two stitches together. This is going to get a
right-leaning decrease. Just pick both of
those up and knit them together and then knit the
last stitch on that row. And then for our second needle, we're just going to
knit straight across. No decreases happening
is to finish off that needle and then we're going to go to our third needle. And what we're
going to do is knit the first stitch and then
we're going to do left leaning decrease or a FSK if you want to
think of it that way. So that is basically when
we slip as if to knit. So we've been slipping
as if to Pearl notice twist up our stitches. But this time we want that
little bit of a twist to give it that left
lean to the stitches. We're going to put our
needle in as if we're going to knit and then just
slip that stitch off. Same with the next one. Put our needle in as if to knit and then just slip it off. And then we're going to
nip those two together. So we're going to take our
needle with the rest of our stitches and put that in it, pick up those stitches
and slip that off. And then we're going to put our working needle in to
the back of those stitches. A little bit different
than a normal net. And then just knit
those two together. And that's gonna
be our decrease. And then just knit the
rest of our stitches. And that will get you back
to the end of your row. And then for the next row, you're just going
to knit all the way around and then you're going to degree or
decreases again. So knit until you only have three left,
knit two together, and then on your third
needle knit FSK and then the rest of them doing a just straighten it
across every other layer. So decrease and then just knit, decrease and then just knit
and you're going to keep decreasing until you have ten stitches on
your first needle, 20 on that second one because
we're not decreasing or touching any of those stitches,
just knitting across. And then ten stitches
on your third needle. And then when you're done,
all of your decreases, you're just going
to keep knitting in the circle because you're
going to have shaped your dataset and you're
just going to keep knitting like normal and the round until you stop about an inch of where you actually want the
length of your SOC to be. You're going to stop an
inch short so that we can start to shape the
toe at the end.
9. 08 Shaping the Toe: Once you have the NGSS it to the length that you
want to keeping in mind that you want
to stop an inch before the actual length
of that you need. We're going to start
shaping the toe. This is just going
to be decreasing, which you should
have some experience with since we've
been in a few times. But what we're going to do
is with our first needle, we're going to just
knit up until we have two stitches left. And then we are going to knit those two
stitches together. So just picking up both of them and knitting them together. Then on our second needle
we're going to SSNK, so slip, stitch and then the
next one put them back on our needle and then
with our working needle going in through the of both those stitches
and then knitting them together and then knitting
across the rest of that needle except for
the last two stitches. And then with those
last two stitches, we're just going to knit
both of them together. And then for our third needle, we're going to FSK again. So just flipping those
stitches and then knitting them together and then
all the way to the end. That's the basic
decrease pattern. The next row, you're just going to knit all the way
around just like we did when we were shaping the NGSS it originally doing
those decreases. So you'll knit all the way
round to the next row. Then you'll knit needle one, except for the last two
stages which you'll knit together than FSK at the
beginning of the second beetle, net across to knit the two
elastic fibers together. Then on the third needle, FSK again infinite and you're
going to keep doing that. One decrease rho, one knit row until you have five stitches on your first needle
tends stitches on your second ETL and five
stitches on your third needle.
10. 09 Binding Off: Once you're finished decreasing so that you have five stitches, ten stitches, and
then five stitches, we can bind off the
end of our toe. So the first thing that we
need to do is we actually need to narrow this
down to two needles. So what we're going
to do is take our third needle that
has our stitches on it. And we're just going to
knit these five stitches from our first needle
onto our third needle. So we're just going to
stitch across like normal. If you remember when we
did the heel and we were transferring over some
stitches, we knit those. So we're going to
knit those instead of slip them because we
want to make sure that our yarn is coming off
of the end of that needle, but also it's going to even out our knitting rows so you can put your other two
needles off to the side. You don't need them anymore. And I'm going to
turn this so that my working yarn is
off to my right. So what we're gonna do
is we're going to weave these two sets of
stitches to gather. So you should have
ten on each needle. And by doing this
weaving stitch, you're basically going to get this continuous stitch all the way around the
end of the toe. It just looks really nice
with socks alike this because your toes are going to be pushing out that
end a little bit. Having a nice continuous stitch just looks really
nice on the socks. So first thing we need to do is cut off at nice along piece of yarn because we're
going to need to be able to stitch through all of these. So when in doubt, give yourself too much room, always aim for more water
than you think you need. Because the last
thing you need is a running out of wool when you're part-way
through something. And then you're gonna
take your needle and thread the end of your wool, the roof so we can start
stitching with it. To do with this stitching, you basically have to
think of it as you have frontal needles
less than one, it's closest to you in the back needle which
is farthest from you. We're gonna set up the first two stitches and we're going to take our tapestry
needle and we're gonna go into the first stitch
of the closest us as if to Pearl and then
pull our yarn through. And then on the back needle, which is furthest from you, we're going to take
our tapestry needle, put it through as if to knit, and then pull all of
that yarn through. And that's our setup for this. So now we're going to get
into the actual pattern. We're going to start with the front needle closest to you. So we're going to go
into the first stitch as if to knit and pull
our yarn through. And then we're just going
to pull that stitch off. And then for the next stitch still on that front
needle facing, you were gonna go in as if to Pearl and not pull
that stitch off. So we're just going
to pull our yarn through and leave
that stitch on. Then for our back needle, we're gonna go into that
first stitch as if to Pearl and pull our yarn through. And then we're going to
pull that stitch off. And then for the next stitch
still on that back needle, we're gonna go in as if to knit and just pull
our yarn through. And we're not pulling
that stitch off either, relieving it on and
don't be afraid to pull on that working
yarn to tighten it up. You're not gonna
get any curling or anything like that unless you
really, really pull at it. So it's okay to make sure it's nice and snug and
thus the pattern. So one more time, we're going to start
with our front needle and we're gonna go in as if to knit for
that first stitch, pull our yarn through and
then pull that stitch off. And then for the next stitch
still on that front needle, we're gonna go in as if to Pearl and pull our yarn through, but leave that stitch
on our needle. And then for our back
needle so farthest from us, we're gonna go in as if to Pearl and pull our yarn
through and then pull that stitch off
and then still on that back needle
for the next stitch we're going to go
in as if to knit, pull our yarn through and leave that stitch on our needle. That's the pattern
you're just gonna keep going through until you only have one stitch on
each of your needles. And then there's a little bit
of a variation at the end. So let me finish
binding these off. I can show you that
little variation right at the end to
finish up your work. Now that you only have those two suggests left or we're
going to do is go through the stitch on the front needle so
closest to you as if to knit and then go into the stitch on the back
needle as F2 pearl. Then you can put
your two needles out and put them to the side. We don't need them anymore. What I like to do before I fully pull this tight is I like to actually put the tapestry
adult through my work. So through that little
end of the toe so I can pull the excess wool to the inside of my sock because
that's where you're gonna weave in your ends
so you don't want it hanging out on the
outside anyway. And that is the end, the toe. So you can see how it all just disappears into each other. So all you need to
do now is weave in the ends and your
sock is finished.
11. 10 Conclusion: Congratulations on finishing
your first pair of socks mixture that you go
back through a pattern to make your second
sock so that you have a full pair and
share pictures of your finished socks in
the project section of the course so
I can check them out along with any questions or difficulties you ran into, so I can help you
through some of that. Also be sure to check out my other courses
here on Skillshare. I add new courses regularly
so you can always find new projects as you further
your knitting journey. I hope to see you
in the next class. Bye.