Introduction to Bear Making - Make a Classic Old Style Teddy Bear

1. Bear intro SK: In this class, you will learn how to make a classic old style bear. This sweet vintage bear will make a thoughtful gift for someone you love. You will be shown how to cut out your pieces and all the sewing techniques you need to make this bear and their lovely trousers and jacket. I love making bears and toys, as it's a tangible way of showing someone you love them. Bear making is a therapeutic craft. When you learn to sew by hand, you learn a practical art of slow living. Learning to sew by hand helps you cultivate patience and enter into a state of flow. Hello. My name is Laura Lamb, and I'm a folk artist, musician, and seamstress. I write and record music, draw, and make art, and I love sewing clothes and toys. In my downtime, I spend hours walking and exploring my local nature. I live in Kent, which is nicknamed the Garden of England. I am surrounded by beautiful landscape. My connection to nature informs and inspires my creative practice. Take this class, you will need to buy a few bear making supplies which are all listed in the download documents, and you'll also need a basic sewing kit, thread, needles, fabric scissors, and I like to use a thimble. Included in this class is a classic bear pattern PDF, which you can download and print or trace from your device's screen. This class is suitable for total beginners or those with a bit more experience who'd like to try their hand at bear making. Let's get sewing. 2. What You Will Need: Thank you for taking this class. First, let's get into what we need. The first step is to go to the download section of this class and to download the documents that you need to complete this project. In there, you will find a resources document which includes a shopping list of the exact products that I use to make this bear. Let's have a quick look at what we need for this project. You will need some mohair fabric for your bear. Italian suede for the paws and the feet. Safety eyes. Stuffing. I like wool stuffing. Thread in the matching color, thick black embroidery thread for the nose and mouth and pores. Needles of varying sizes. I like using a thimble. It's not necessary, but protect your finger. So nice, sturdy fabric scissors. Scrap for your coat and a button, scrap fabric for your trousers. Elastic for the waistband of your trousers. You will also need a marker pen. It doesn't matter if it doesn't wash off because it will be on the inside of your bear, and you will need a printer or a device that you can trace the pattern from. The last but most important thing you'll need is patience because making theirs takes time. Let's get into the next lesson where we will cut out our pieces. 3. Prepare Pattern Pieces: Lesson, we will cut out our pieces. Please, first, go to the download section and print out the pattern pieces for the bear and for the bears clothes if you want to make the bears clothes, too. Cutting out the pattern pieces can go wrong, and that's why there's the saying to measure twice and cut once. In the resources document, I've taken a screenshot of all the pieces that you will need. So make sure that you use that to reference against when you double check that you are cutting out the right pieces. Some of the pattern pieces, you will need just one of them, some of them two, and some of them four. That's why it's really good to double check. Here are all our pattern pieces, two belly pieces, two head pieces, four leg pieces, four arm pieces, four earpieces, two paws, two foot pads, and a head gusset. Use this image to check your pieces against. And now getting our mohair fabric and checking the direction of it. So you want it to be the direction that the fur is traveling downwards in, so lining up your arrow with that downward grain of the fabric. Turning it over to draw on the back. And to be economical, I'm squishing the pieces as close as I can to each other without overlapping. Carefully drawing around each piece. And then once I've drawn around them, I will just double check one more time. I will check if I've got the correct number of pieces and that they're the right way round because if you turn your piece of paper over and draw around it the wrong way, you don't get the wrong pieces. Now to the suede and much less pieces here, just the footpads and the poor pads. And then we just get our trusty fabric scissors and carefully cut around each of these pieces. And going exactly on the line. And by the end, it should look like this, and you can just double check that one more time running through the list to check that you've got all the right pieces to sew them together. These are the scrap bits that you can use to stuff your bear, if you wish. I normally use them as an extra stuffing. Then I zip round with my little mini hoover because this pesky mohair can go everywhere otherwise. You might just want to do a quick cleanup. Okay, now our pattern pieces are all cut out, let's head to the next lesson where we will start to construct the head of our bear. 4. Construct Head: This lesson, we will construct the head of our bear. Let's get sewing. Here are our three head pieces, doing another little quick zip around with the mini hoover to get any excess fluff gone, and we're going to start sewing them together. So first of all, matching the two side pieces together. And with this bear, we have quite a small seam. I would say it's around a two millimeter seam, two to three millimeter seam. First of all, starting with a fastening knot to secure your thread in place. So I've made a little loop, and then I tie through the loop to make a knot. Nice and secure. And then we do running stitch. So we run running stitch. And you see I just turned it over. I often just look at the other side to check that it's neat on both sides. So just carefully working your way up this way. And then eventually it will look like this, and you leave a gap here of the two to 3 millimeters for the seam allowance. And then we're just going to tie a knot. Great. And now for the gusset. So it can be useful, first of all, just to mark where the halfway point is on the nose by just folding your gusset piece in half and marking that halfway point like so. Then we take that halfway point and we put it slap bang in the middle, like so, so we can fasten it to the two side head pieces. I do a little knot here, fastening that center point to where they've joined, and then I do running stitch. And you'll notice the way that the fabric curves, you need to keep adjusting your pieces and pinching them together so that they smoothly follow around in that curve. By the end, it will look like this. You've done running stitch all the way from the tip of the nose right down to the neck and then you'll have a little bit of a tail with the gusset, and that's okay. So just leave that there, and then we're just going to tie a knot at the end. You might even like to do 2 knots. So that's one side fastened. And then we just repeat the same on the other side, starting at the nose at that halfway point, getting a fastening knot to get it started. And then running stitch going all the way from that center point, making sure you don't stitch it to the other side. That's why I was pulling the fabric away. You just want to be sewing these two pieces of fabric together. And double checking your stitches as you go, so it's neat on both sides. So there we go. That's the other side of the head attached. Going all the way to the end, there's a little bit of a tail on the gusset. That's fine. And one or two fastening knots. There come my nice even stitches. Perfect. Now, we can turn our head inside out, and even from this early point, you start to get a little field of a little character. Hello, little bear. And I normally stuff it straight away, so I can just start to see the shape of the head. So I'm using my wool stuffing. And then the bear snout is normally hair free. So I give my bear a little nose trim with the scissors and going around. Just around that main central nose bit for where we're going to sew the nose. And with this trimming, less is more because you can always trim more later. There we are. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 5. Embroider Nose and Mouth: Lesson, we will embroider the nose and mouth. There are loads of different styles for noses and mouths. And if you want to look into some different ideas, you could go on Google and Pinterest and type in classic or historical bear designs to see what kind of noses and mouths they're using. You can also buy safety noses that get attached the same way as the safety eyes, so that's another option you might like to do. I will be embroidering a classic nose like this where we first of all, draw the three lines of a triangle and then do lots of stitches to fill the block of the nose. Let's get sewing. My thick black embroidery thread, and I'm starting with a big hairy knot, which is when you just twist the thread like this, around the loop, and it forms a very big knot and aiming to come out at the top left of the nose like so. First of all, drawing the top line of the nose, and then we basically draw a triangle and that will be our framework for the way our nose is done. You should be able to see now this triangle. I'm just going to trim a bit more fab, a bit more hair off here so you can see. So you can see the shape of a triangle here. That is the triangle of my nose. And then what I'm going to do is do long stitches, starting at the top of the nose and ending in the pointy bottom of the nose so that you end up with lots of lines forming a solid black nose at the end. So just working all the way from one side of the nose to the other if you leave any gaps, then you can travel back the direction. I've gone left to right on the nose, and now I'm going back right to left to fill in any gaps. So you have lots of straight lines, straight line stitches forming that nose shape. Lovely. And then once you've blocked it all out, so it's solid, you might notice there's still some teeny tiny gaps, and that's where I get a black pen, and I just fill in any teeny tiny gaps that were left to make the nose all black. Ah, looks cute. Then to finish, I just tuck back into the nose to head to doing the mouth. Leaving a little gap, this is the what's the name of this body part between nose and mouth? I can't remember, but that line going between nose and mouth. You'll see now I'm doing a bit more trimming because there's too much hair in the mouth area too because what I want to do is make a little V. This is the shape of the V. Like so. And tiny little adjustments here on the shape of how you do the V can make your bear look grumpier or happier, and it's fun to try things out and see the personality of your bear. I normally do two stitches on each line. So it's a nice thick line for the mouth and the nose to mouth line. So looking lovely. I'm coming out the top of the nose, ready to finish this altogether. So look at that. That is cute. Already giving some personality. Tuck that thread into the nose and out through the neck. And that's your nose all finished. Cute final trimming, if you wish. This stuff is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 6. Sew and Attach Ears: Lesson, we will make the ears and attach to the head. Let's get sewing. Here are our four ear pieces. So first of all, joining two together, fur on the inside, the back on the outside, starting with the fastening knot, as we do with all the steps of fastening this bear together. You might like one or two fastening knots and then we're just going to do a seam running around that curve of the ear, but leaving the straight line open. And again, a couple of fastening knots. The end. And you leave a little tail. Don't trim that. Leave that long thread at the end. So at the end, you'll have two loops like this long threads, and then we're going to turn our ears inside out. And then loop in a couple of millimeters, fold the fabric in so that you hide that cut seam. Then you can test where you like your ear to be. Again, this really affects the personality and look of your bear, whether it's on the top of its head or side, and I like to have a little curve to my ear like this. So I've already attached one ear, and then now what I do is first of all, I just baste the ear in place. So I do one fastening knot using that tail that was from the earpiece, and I just hold it in place and baste it, which means I'm just roughly making sure it's in the right place before I really securely stitch it. So doing sort of three or four stitches along the base of the ear to hold it in place. And then once you're happy with it, then you can start to secure it more firmly. So start to do smaller stitches. So you want probably six to eight stitches on each side running along it. And I normally lean my bear on my leg like this so that I have something to push back. I I'm sat on the sofa or if not, you might like to use a table, but I tend to sit on the sofa or on the bed and I just have my knee up like that to rest the bet on. So then you just want to give the ears a wiggle and check they're really secure. If you've run five to eight stitches along each side, it should be nice and secure, especially securing the edges of each ear, and then a couple of fastening knots like so. And then you just make the thread disappear out the head. I'm doing some more knots at this end of the year. Just need to use your eyes here and just check it from all angles it's really secure and give the ear a little pull as well. So that is looking so cute. Look. Okay. Me double check more, more, more. I can do some knots, more stitches. Running along the back one more time. It really is just more than merrier, really, especially this bears going to be given to a young child, so I really want it to be very, very secure so that when they play with it, things don't fall off. So there we go. Look at those lovely ears. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 7. Safety Eyes: This lesson, we will affix the safety eyes. Go to the download document to see the exact safety eyes that I've used for this project. Let's go. So here are our eye pieces, and I'm using a seam ripper to make the whole. So first of all, I just test out my eye where I want it to be like all different elements of this, where you place the eyes really affects the personality of the bear. So I've chosen this position. I've done the other eye, and I'm going to show you how to do the eye. So I make a little hole with the seam ripper like so. You might like to use a knife or something else sharp just to make your hole. And I'm going to actually make almost like a cross. So I've done two little holes there with the seam ripper, so I've definitely got space for the eyepiece. Then I just push it in. Oh, and then get that turn the bear inside out so I can get to the back. And then using the safety eye, I just pop pop pop pop and clip it on. Cute. Now, this might be a time for a bit more trimming. I find that you might want to get a little bit of hair away from the eyes so that the hair isn't going over the eyes. You also might like to take a bit more off the snout. This is your own creative decision about where you think your bear could do with a little trim. So I particularly like to make sure that so that the eyes really stand out, that there's not too much hair overlapping the eyes. Beautiful. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 8. Sew Tummy : Lesson, we will construct the bear tummy. Let's go. Now our two belly pieces. So putting them fur to fur together. And we're going to run a running stitch all the way round round, round round, round the belly, and just leaving a small opening in the neck, like so. Once you've done this, you can put a little note in the bear. This is something I like to do a little wish for the child I'm giving it to. So I've written a little wish for the child, and I'm going to hide it inside the bear. And I'm going to use a little bit of the leftover scraps to make the stuffing a bit heavier. But always making sure I start with some wool because that's where the legs are going to be sewn on, and it will be tricky to sew through all that thicker stuffing. So just only just putting a little bit of that. But you also might not want to use it. It's not necessary putting the little wish in. And now this looks like a sort of funny shaped sausage. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 9. Sew Arms: Lesson, we will construct the arms and embroider paes on if we wish. Let's get sewing. Here are our arm pieces. The first job is to attach the sued paw pad to the inner arm like sew, with running stitch going all the way along. After this, we are fastening the outer arm to the inner arm. We start with a fastening knot here, just above the pore. We travel our running stitch around the pore, come up to the shoulder, and the inner arm is slightly smaller than the outer arm and that's what creates fullness in the arm. You just need to pinch it like this to create that fullness. Traveling back down the arm. You're looping all the way around like that, and you'll leave about three finger gap there for turning. And where you've tied your fastening knot, leave a tail there because we're going to use that to close the arm. Using a pen to turn it inside out, the paw pad can be a little bit trickier. I just really giving it a push in so that you reach the full shape and then time for stuffing. Using our wool stuffing. First of all, pushing it in a bit with our fingers, and then I always find it easier to be helped along with a pen or something similar to push it right in there. Once your arm is nice and stuffed to your desired stuffiness, then it's time to close it up. So we create a seam allowance by folding in the two sides in about two to three millimetres, and then we loop like so. So we loop a tiny couple of mill here, and then a tiny couple of mill here, and then we just go along like that till we get all the way to close the close the arm shut. And we're going to do a couple of knots there to be extra secure. And then to make the thread disappear, we just push it through and snip it off. You can leave it like this if you like. But I'm going to add embroidered pores. So I'm coming in from the side there to the front, and I'm going to do a little knot to fasten this thick black embroidery thread in place. And then the first pore is going to come under like this. I'm going to do three stitches altogether, three pores. And then once you've done that one, going into the middle, and then bringing the needle through to the final pore on the edge. And then closing with the lost one. And then we just need to do a knot to finish it off. Cute. So I'm going to do a little knot here. Relax jaw, relax shoulders, relax temples as you work on these fiddly bits. Saying soft and relaxed as you concentrate. Beautiful. Now, as with the face, you might like to trim a little bit here so that you're able to really see the pores. So I'm just taking off a little bit of the length of the fur around the pores so you're able to see those stitches. And then do the same with the other arm. Lovely. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 10. Sew Legs: Lesson, we will construct the bare legs and embroider the paws, if you wish. Let's get sewing. Here are three leg pieces, the two sides of the leg and the paw pad. So doing running stitch all the way round and tying here at the tip of the toes. And you want to start your running stitch from about here, so not quite halfway. Folding the poor pad in half and marking the halfway points. Now coming from the back of the foot starting with a fastening knot here and some running stitch. So now the back of the foot is fastened shut, too. Then I'm going to use that halfway marker to make sure that the paw pad is exactly coming halfway, and then I'm going to join that here. Once we've done that, we're then going to do running stitch around the paw. This is fiddly because we want to adjust the poor pad and line it up with the edge of the fabric so making sure the running stitch is neat on both sides. You'll notice the paw pad is slightly bigger sly, a slight overhang there, and then you should that central halfway mark should reach the toes, and then you come back along the other ways. You've got a nice circle going all the way around. And then, when you're back where you started, we just need to do a nice knot or two there. Lovely. Then we've got this little opening, which is our opening for turning the leg the right way using our trusty pen to push it to its full shape. Sure, relaxed, shoulders relaxed, temples relaxed. And doing the same as what we did on the arms, so we don't have a tail on this case. In this case, we first will need to join a new piece of thread with a fastening knot. And then we're going to close up in the exact same way, folding the two seams in by two to three mill and sewing along. And once you've got all the way to the heel of the foot, a couple of fastening knots to secure that in place. You can see the stitches, but as soon as you scruffle up the fur, the stitches disappear. And you can leave it like this or as with the arms, we can add the paw pad, using our thick embroidery thread and doing the exact same technique we did before. So starting with a knot, where we come out the front of the foot, going into the suede for the first toe, through to the center, And then the final toe. Finishing that toe and then another fastening knot. Making that thread disappear and snipping it. Perfect. Doing the others just the same, and there you go. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 11. Attach Head: Now all the parts of our bear are complete, we're going to attach the parts of our bear together, first of all, starting with attaching the head to the body. Let's get sewing. Now we have all the components of our bear, two arms, two legs, a belly, and a head. So it's time to connect them all together. First of all, I plump up the belly a bit more just to make sure it's definitely 100% full. So that our bear isn't saggy. And same with the head. Stuffing it to 100%. And we need to create the neck of the bear. And we do this by, first of all, doing a big hairy knot, which is when you loop it like this, twist the thread and then pull the end so you get a nice big lumpy knot. And then looking at where you want the chin to be and coming in from the back where you like the base of the chin to be, where the neck will start. Then we do running stitch going around the bear's neck. Coming back to the center. This running stitch or sometimes called gathering stitch, very loose running stitch or basting stitch is to gather the neck. You see now I pull it and now the neck is gathered in. Once that's gathered in right, then I just do a fastening knot to have that gathered in place. Now that neck of the bear is ready to slot into the belly of the bear. So folding that lip in, so you've got the seam allowance at the base of the neck there. And then the neck just pops in to that gap. And as with the ears, the first thing we do is we just baste it in place so that we can make sure that we're happy with where our head is before we do more stitches. You can use the seam that runs down the center of the face to line up with the seam at the front of the belly to help it get it straight. And then you've got the two seams on the back of the head and the one seam at the back, and you can use them as well as a bit of a marking point. To have your head roughly central. Saying that, I don't often follow that, and then my bears end up looking a bit wonky, and that gives them more character. So just folding those two seams in, and then I've basted it all the way around. So it's just loosely in place, but I'm happy with the position of it. So now I can go around and more finely, say, I'll do at least 15 stitches running around the same technique, scooping a bit, scooping a little bit, and stitching round all the way around the head. Shoulders relaxed, jaw relaxed. Eyes relaxed. Okay, so we're back at the front center now, and I've noticed there's a little gap here at the front of the chin, which I'm going to seal shut with a knot. This is the great thing about hand sewing. You can just take your time and notice any little mistakes and go and correct them. So we've done a couple of knots there now. And I'm just checking if it's secure all the way around. Give it a little wiggle, another fastening knot. The more knots, the merrier, I say, in bear making. H going for one more knot. And there we go. Our head is securely in place and looking lovely. So you see mine slightly off cent in my back seam. But I think it looks nice. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 12. Attach Arms: In this lesson, we will attach the bear arms to the bear. Let's get sewing. So now we've got our arms, and we can have a little wiggle around to see where we would like them to go. When it comes to arms and legs attaching, I really do want you to follow the double knot theory. So sometimes you see me here doing a single knot and I really don't recommend that. You want to do 2 knots to make sure these arms are really secure. Once we've decided where our arms going to go, we run our needle. And please note, right at this stage, when we're doing the arms and the legs, you want to use the biggest needle you can find or if you're going to the shops, try and buy a really long needle. Accidentally, when I'm doing the arms, I'm not using my longest needle, which makes it a bit harder, but you'll see how long the needle is that I'm using for legs. So now I'm just going back and forth. And this thread running from shoulder to shoulder is effectively creating a joint that the arms can move on. So, I like to see you go back and forth at least six times to make this joint really secure. You might even like to do eight or ten times. And you really want to be using a strong thread for this as well. Once they feel secure, notice you still got the lovely movement in the arms, which is just lovely for a bear. Then we need knot, 2 knots. Another thing you can do is to do a couple of knots and then go back and forth a few more times and then another knot to really secure these in place. And you see me there. I just did 1 knot. I really don't recommend that. I really think it's good for this part of the bear that could be fragile is to do 2 knots. There we go. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 13. Attach Legs: Now that the head and the arms are attached, it's time to attach the legs. Let's get sewing. So as with the arms, taking a moment to fiddle around and see where you like the legs to go on your bear. It's good to try it sitting up as well as lying down so you can imagine how it will move. Now I'm going to use my super long needle. Look at the silly needle I was using before. This is my normal needle for sewing, so you get the idea of how long this needle is. This is good. So starting the same way with a couple of knots. Making sure you use attach the leg of the right round so your toes aren't facing backwards. So going into your hip joint and coming out the other side. And then going back in, but not exactly where you came out at least a millimeter or two away so that you don't go back in the horn accidentally unthread your legs. Pulling that through to match up there. Then we go back in the hip joint on the body of the bear coming out the other side and repeating the same on the other leg. Hey, I said six back and forth. For the arms. But, you know, why not do eight? Definitely do eight. And maybe ten, maybe even 12. I have a confession to make that in my first attempt of the legs, I thought they were secure. Then I had a little fiddle with them and put the clothes on, and they fell off. And I don't want that to happen for your gift. So just make sure you run this joint, this joint you're making out of thread. Lot of time, so it's really, really secure and don't be afraid to knot as you go. For example, I've gone in and through once. I've come back now to where I started. You could now do another knot there. Every two or three times you go back and forth, just do another knot, so it's really getting secure. Also another option is to not have a joint and to actually just sew them in place the same way that you fixed the head to the neck. So it's solid in that place. I've done that with previous bears, I made one for a baby, and I just did not want any risk of an arm or a leg falling off. So I just sewed them very, very securely in place. So it's up to you whether you create this joint with these back and forth stitches or if you fasten them in place. Then you just don't have the fun of being able to move the arms and legs, that's all. So it's going to sit on your shelf or something, you might just want it in a stationary position. Okay, so now I'm doing this knot here. Remembering jaw, shoulders, eyes relaxed. So I've done a knot, and then I'm going through again. I've actually lost count of how many stitches I've done for these legs. There's got to be eight or more, and that's what I recommend for you. Another knot. Then, yeah, double, not messing around this time. This is leg attempt two. I do not want these legs to fall off. So going for it with the knots, there we go. Then at the end, just making that thread disappear as we always do. Cute. Just checking them. Are they moving? They're not pulling away. And there we go. There's Grbert with moving arms and moving legs. Looking lovely. This step is now complete. Let's head to the next lesson. 14. Sew Trousers: Lesson, we will make some sweet trousers for our bear so go and get your scrap fabric and your elastic. Let's get sewing. First of all, tracing our trouser shape onto our fabric and cutting it out. We're going to leave, as with the bear, about two to 3 millimeters seam allowance. So starting two to 3 millimeters from the inside of the leg and the inside of the crotch and then running stitch going all the way to the waist of the trousers. And fastening off there. So I've started from there and run all the way up. And then repeated the same on the other side. And now let's do the two legs of the trousers. So starting at the bottom of one of the legs and doing a fastening knot. And then running stitch all the way to the center of the crotch of the trousers. And here we're going to do a knot once you get right in at the center. O. And then pass through to the other leg. You might like to do another knot at the other side of the leg as well, so that's really secure. Then running stitch back down. We've done running stitch all the way along one leg to the center and the other leg. That's the basic shape of the trousers complete. And now the elasticated waistband. So measuring the bear's waist with a little bit of overlap on the elastic. And then we start by rolling the elastic waist. So you'll notice that I'm not finishing the seams of the bears trousers. This is because I was making the spare for a gift, and my time was limited. But if you wanted to, you could finish the seams of the bears trousers. If you'd like to see my really refined way of making trousers, there is my class on Skillshare called palazzo pants and you'll see how I do much more finishing. But for the sake of this bear and for its scrappy character, I thought it was fine for the seams to not be finished. Relaxing jaw, shoulders, eyes. Then now we're going to on a fastening knot there. And I'm going to travel along the waistband. And what I'm making sure is I'm not scooping the elastic. I'm scooping around the elastic, so I'm basically making a tube for the elastic to travel through, and that's what makes the nice elasticated waist. You see then now I can pull it and I get that nice scrunch waist. So I want to travel all the way around in this fashion. Until I get to the very end and I've now got to tuck the other bit of elastic in and fix it in the same way I did before. I just do a few stitches going back and forth. You'll see I'm attaching a new piece of thread now because we don't have a tail hanging here, and I'm just going through the elastic round to the other side, and then back and forth through. So this just affixes the elastic to the trousers. Probably six stitches like that to make sure that the elastic is secure in place, and then all we need to do is finish closing this channel, this tunnel for the elastic to travel through. Looping through and just as you go, just making sure you're not sewing the elastic. And when you get to the end, you might like just to do a few more bonus stitches through those layer of elastic, so they're really secure in place. And then, as always, finishing with a fastening knot and making that thread disappear into the garment. I'm disappearing into the channel of the belt. Lovely. So now you can just rejig it around so it's all even. And now you can see how our trousers have a lovely elasticated waist. If you'd really like to continue the scrappy theme, you could leave your trousers unfinished at the ankle as they are now, which actually looks quite nice. Or I'm going to do a little turn up like this, sort of make them into cropped trousers. So the way I'm going to do that, I'm going to fold them, twist them around with my fingers, and then I'm going to iron them in place. On my turn ups in place. Lovely. And then you could run stitches all the way around the turn up or you can just do two or three stitches at every edge, like so. I'm doing 1 knot, one or two stitches, another knot at both the inner corner and the outer corner of the trousers. You'll see what I mean once I show you all the places where I've done this. So that's just one turn up fastening knot there. So you can do one there, one there, one there, one there, one there, one there. You've got four. And because I didn't finish the inside seams, you might get a little bit of the scrappy edges folding in, and you can just use your needle and thread to fold that and just hide those scrappy bits of the inside seam there with a few stitches. That's what I'm just doing here. Now finally going round and just checking you got any loose threads. And if you like, you might like to add knots at the front center and the back center, too, to keep these turn ups in place. Lovely. This step is now complete. Your bear looks lovely with a pair of trousers. You could leave it there or head to the next sessin if you'd like to sew a jacket for your bear. 15. Sew Jacket: Lesson, we will make a cute jacket for Aber. You will need your scrap fabric for your jacket and a button if you wish. So here are all my jacket pieces that I've used following the jacket pattern. First of all, attaching the shoulders to the back of the garment, like so. Then taking one of the arm sleeves and marking the halfway point. Here I am cut a corner. I didn't iron my fabric before I started. I've got this old scrap of fabric, and it's a bit screwed up. I really don't recommend doing that. Makes it harder to see what you're doing. So then what I'm doing is I'm attaching, leaving a little gap at both ends and then attaching they look like little shoulder flaps. That's the two sleeves attached. So just notice that sort of two to three mill gap, the seam gap at the end of each one there. Then I'm going to fix the sides of the jacket like so, and then I'm going to do a knot or two and then head down the sleeve. So I've traveled up the side of the jacket, down a knot. I'm turning, and then popping out the other side of this, these seams here and then running along the sleeve running stitch all the way to the end of the sleeve and fastening knot. So it look like this. Repeating the same on the other side. So the basic structure of the jacket is complete. And now we just need to do some finishing to make it look smart. And we do that by doing rolled hems, rolled edges. So I just take the edge of the fabric and I roll it over twice. And this is a very neat rolled edge. Probably each roll is 2 millimeters. So you just see I've rolled it. Round. And this has this is a very simple way basically to create a nice finished edge. So I travel all the way up the front side of the jacket around the neck line and then around the other front. Like so. Did lido, shoulder, neck. Roll, roll, roll roll roll all the way to the end. And then now to the sleeves, which I did by just folding like so. You could also do these as a roll if you like. I've just folded them like so and then run a running stitch along silly me, left the tails hanging out, not practicing what I preach, where you always disappear the last bit of thread so if that ever happens to you, all you need to do is put the needle back in where your tail is, thread it in place. And then you'll be able to disappear that. Perfect. So doing that to both of those, so both those tails have disappeared, then that's looking smart, doing the same on both sleeves. And now going well, we got the jacket this way round, just going round and noticing any little tails of thread from the fabric or from your thread to neaten it up. And then the last step, you'll see I did a roll stitch all along the base of the jacket, too. I so I basically finished all the edges with a nice rolled hem. Here it is with the bear wearing the jacket, looking very sweet, trousers and jacket combo. It looks lovely, just like this. But you might like to add a button and a buttonhole like I did. To learn how to do buttons and buttonholes, you can go to my Sussex Smock class. Your bear is now finished. Let's head to the final lesson to say well done and goodbye. 16. Well Done and Goodbye: You are complete, well done for making your bear. Thank you so much for taking part in this class with me. Please share a photo of your finished bear in the project section, or if you're going to put it on social media, please tag me at Laura Lamb, hashtag folk sewing with Laura. Skill Share is all about community, so let's connect. You can head to the Discussions tab to ask me any questions. It would really help me if you write a review. It doesn't matter if you haven't made your bear yet or you haven't finished your bear yet. You could just write a sentence or two about my teaching style and if you enjoyed this class. I work really hard to create good classes here on Skill Share. And when I receive a nice review, it really makes my day. And as well as that, if there's new students who are thinking about taking the class, if they see positive reviews on the class, it will let them know that it's quality. Go to my teacher page and follow me if you'd like to see other classes I have on offer and to be first to hear when I launch new classes. On my teacher page, there's also links to my social media, website, and music. I recommend signing up to my Substack email list where I send out a nice inspiring email once or twice a month. My the magical art of sewing bring more intention, peace, patience, and beauty into your life? Thanks so much for watching. Bye.