Hook Up Your Home: Crochet Runner. | Sara Shuhdy | Skillshare

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Hook Up Your Home: Crochet Runner.

teacher avatar Sara Shuhdy, Where Yarn Meets Imagination

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      A Cozy Crochet Dream

      1:05

    • 2.

      Materials & Setting Up Your Crochet Project

      5:59

    • 3.

      Building the Foundation: Rows 1 & 2

      7:26

    • 4.

      Project Roadmap: Planning the Second Part

      1:14

    • 5.

      Starting the Side Panel: First Two Rows & Tips

      4:14

    • 6.

      Row 2 Breakdown: Essential Tips.

      2:26

    • 7.

      Finishing Touches: Weaving Ends & Blocking the Coaster

      4:00

    • 8.

      Your Project is Complete! Share Your Thoughts & Feedback

      1:14

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About This Class

In this class, you'll learn how to crochet a beautiful table runner step by step, making it perfect for beginners. I’ll guide you through the entire process, from creating the foundation to finishing techniques, ensuring you build confidence in your crochet skills. By the end of the course, you'll have a stunning handmade piece to decorate your home!

The project consists of two main parts: the central square, which can be adjusted in size depending on your project—small for a coaster, larger for a runner, or even the entire piece for a cushion. The second part involves adding symmetrical side panels to complete the runner, ensuring a balanced and polished look. By the end of this class, you'll have a stylish handmade piece to decorate your home!

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Sara Shuhdy

Where Yarn Meets Imagination

Teacher

Hello Everybody, my name is Sara Shuhdy i am a pharmacist but my passion to knitting , crocheting and sewing is more than any thing in my life 

I have been knitting since I was 9 years old and now I am 40 years old ,these years built my experience and also I enrolled  in many classes some of them were official and others were online , all these experience allows me to teach knitting , crocheting and sewing to my students , some of them now are experts 

Here are some of my project that are the most close to my heart 



I like these socks so that I can not wear it ;)

My professional Amigurumi 

love it so so so much 

See full profile

Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. A Cozy Crochet Dream: Hello, friends. I'm Sara, and I'm so excited to welcome you to my new crochet class on ski show. Together, we will learn, have fun, and explore the beauty of this creative cast. For a long time, I have the window of a home filled with handmade touches, especially crochet. And if I can't achieve this in the entire house, I at least hope for e cosium that is like my comfort, too. Filled with crochet biases, colorful yarn, and cheerful wipes. Blade that reflects my comfort and passion. To have this wonderful hobby that helps me bring my dreams to life, decorating my home endures with more unique touches. Let's enjoy this journey together and start creating a beautiful crochet runner. That would add it fishing charm to his biscu Let's to get started. 2. Materials & Setting Up Your Crochet Project: Know, my friend. For this project, I will be using Egyptian cotton yard called as It is 100% cotton and is neither too thick nor too thin. I will be working with crochet hook number three, and it is aluminum hook. You can also use cotton acrylic blend or cram yarn, but it is best to avoid wall for this project. Let's get started together. First, we will create a major cream. Hold the yarn in your bum and wrap it around your index and middle fingers, crossing it over at the back. The working end of the yarn will set behind your finger like this. Insert your hook from the front of your finger to the back and boil through the loop, forming circle. Hold this circle steady as you work eight chain stitches. These eight chains will be the first three chains as the base for the first Daba cocci, and then five chains for the first base in the runner. Next, work a double crochet into the magic ring followed by five chain stitches. Then another double crochet and another set of five chains. Repeat this until you have a total of four double crochet and three spaces. Now, you want four spaces to do this tighten the magic ring by pulling the loose end of the arm and work another five chins. Finally, join with the sleep stitch into the third chain of the starting eight chains. This will create your four species. Moving forward in the spaces, we will work as start by making three chains over the double crochet. Then work three double crochets into the first three chains of the next five chin base. Be careful. We will work in the back loop. Make sure to work into that loop of these stitches rather than this itself. After completing the four double crochet, chain five and repeat by working three double crochet into the remaining two chains of the five chin piece in the same stitch as the lost double couch. Work another double crochet, followed by two more double Couche into the next two chains. Finish with the double crochet on top of the briefest double course. By now, you should have four double coche, five chain, and four double coche, a crosser. As you can see here, after the five chain stitches, I'm going to make the first double crochet into the same stitch where I made the last stitch of the Brevious four like this. Now, I have two chains left, where I will work two more double crochet. The first double crochet will go on top of the double crochet from the Brevius row. So above each double crochet, I will make a double crochet. In the five chains, I will make six double crochet. I am working everything in the back loop. So I will make a double crochet here, and then I will work three double Crochet, one, two, three, followed by five chains. Then another set of three double crochet. The first of these will be made in the same stitch like this. As you can see, then I will work a double crochet on top of the double crochet from the previous row. I will continue the row in the same way. Okay, now that I have finished, I will close the row with slip sstich into the third chain of distorting chains e. Now I have four corners. Each corner consists of five chain stitch, and between each corner, there are number of double crochets. In this row, there are seven double crochet between the corners, and with that, I have finished the first row. Join me in the next lesson, where I will walk you through the second row so we can complete the first part of the runner. If you have any question, feel free to reach out. I would be more than happy to help see you in the next lesson. 3. Building the Foundation: Rows 1 & 2: Hello, my friend. Let's take a look at the second dru together, which is really simple. I'll start by making three chains, and this will count at the first double coche. Next, I will skip two stitches from the brevis room and work into the third one. Since we are skipped two stitches, I will replate them with two chins. So I'm starting with a total of five chains, three for the double crochet and two in place of the skipped stitches. I'll be working in the back loop. So make sure to focus on that part. As I am crocheting into the last stitch before the chain five space, just like we did in the Brevis row. Now, moving on to the corner, you will make three double crochet in the chain space, exactly like we did before. Remember, the steps for the corners remain the same across the rows. After the three double crochet, you will chain five again and add three more double coche into the next corner space. We will end up with the same structure four, chain five, four double coche. The first of the four double Couche comes from the lost stitch before the chain space. And the other three are in the first three chains of the chain five space. Continue like this across the room. Mmm. My urn has finished. It is a chance to show you how to join the yarn. I have the end of the urn and the new yarn. I blade them opposite each other like this. Then I tie the new yarn to the old one inside with a single note. And I use the end of the finished yarn to tie a note on the new yarn, also from the inside. Then I pull the yarns until the nodes come closer together. This way, the arm will never come undone. You can safely trim the excess. Let's continue with the work. Here I made two chains, so I will escape two stitches from the bottom and work in the third stitch. Which is the last double crochet. Before the corner, start the corner steps. I will not repeat them so you don't get bored, but I want to remind you that you are working in the back loop. Don't forget that. Here, I have reached the end of the round. I will make the last two chains. Then I will close with a slip stitch in the third chain from the beginning. This way, I have completed my round, which consists of two chains, double crochet, two chains, double crochet. And the corner is the same as what we did in the previous row, following the same steps. The next row is a repeat of the first row. I will start with three chains as the first row, and then I will go onto all the stitches to make double crochet. All in the back loop until the last double crochet before the corner. And then I will work the corner and continue with the double crochet and corners as we have gotten used to The advantage of the runner, as I told you, is that you work with the size you want for the project you desire. For example, if you want a coaster, meaning you don't want it large, you might stop the first part of the runner add these two rows as the width of the square, meaning it will stop at these two rows. If it is a cushion, it might be 15 rows. If it is a runner, it might be 27 or 28 rows, depending on the thickness of the urn. You continue to work on these two rows in successive rounds until you reach the desired size. For me, this is a large runner. I made all these rows until the square reached this size. And I stopped at the last row with the gaps or spaces. Which is the second draw. This means this is the last draw for me. After that, we move to the second bird of the work. You can stop at the size you want. I will work with you on a small sample, but I am waiting to see your complete project. So I have left for the next draw, which will be the row of spaces or row number two, and then I will finish this bird of the runner. And now, get ready for the next lesson because we will be diving into the second part of our brochure. I hope the explanation so far has been simple and clear. If you need to double check anything or have any questions, feel free to reach up. See you in the next lesson. 4. Project Roadmap: Planning the Second Part: Know, my friend. I will stop at this size of the square. Pay attention. When you stop at the desired size, you stop at row with this bases that have two chains and double ching. Not zero that is entirely double crushing. So here I will finish my row by making a chain, then cutting the yarn and bulling it tight at the end. I will clean up all the excess threads later. Now I will start attaching the yarn so I can work like this. One side, corner, another side. Then I will turn the work and do the same side corner side until I reach the desired length. After that, I will cut the yarn and start working on the other side using the same method and the same number of rows. I just wanted to clarify the work plane so you can visualize how it will go from the start. So see you in the next video. 5. Starting the Side Panel: First Two Rows & Tips: Hello, my friends here, I will attach my yarn to this for double crochet. But make sure it is in the back lobe. Don't forget. Then I will make three chains as the first double crochet, followed by one double crochet in each stitch as usual. Now, I have reached the middle of the row, which was the starting and ending point of the work in the first square. Where we cut the urn. It's fine. I will work over its stitches normally. I will also continue working over the urn like this to hide it as I go. So the work stays neat and secure. When I reach the corner, don't forget that all the work is done in the back loop to get this texture. So when working on the right side, I will always use the back loop. I will continue the second time, and the row will end here at the first of these four double caching. Here, I will make five chains and turn the work to start on the wrong side. I will not count this stitch where the five chains come from. Instead, I will count from the next stitch skipping two chains and work a double crochet into the next one. But when working on this side, I will work into the front loop to maintain the texture on the front side of the I will continue with zero as usual with two chains and a double crochet. Now, here is an important note. Be careful not to get confused and count this as one of the two stitches, you skip because if you do the placement of the double crochet shaft causing problem with the stitch count. So pay extra attention at the start of zero to keep the count correct. As the number of bass should remain consistent in a row, how does that work? I will tell you how the decrease I make at the start of the row is balanced by an increase in the five chains of the corner. This happens in row of double crochets. And it naturally reflects on the row of its bases as it starts and ends above the row of double crochets. That's why the count stays the same each time. I will continue working and as usual. Stop at the lost double crochet before the corner. I will work into it as usual. Don't forget all this is done in the front loop. Now I have reached the end of the row. I will find two stitches to skip and is the last stitch where I will make my final double crochet. Then I will turn the work to start a new row of double coche. As you can see, the message is simple, but now I will show you how to start the row of double crochet here. Stay tuned because we are almost done. See you in the next video. Bye. 6. Row 2 Breakdown: Essential Tips.: Hello, my friends. After finishing the row of pieces, I will start the next row which is all double caching, and it will be on the right side of the work. I will turn the work like this. How do I know it is the right side because of the back loop stitches which created raised texture on the front side of the work? At the beginning of this row, I will make a decrease because I want to eliminate these two spaces and reach this third double cushing. So I will work slip stitches until I reach the desired spot. I will also work the slip stitches in the back loop. Of course, I will skip the first stitch. Then I will work on stitch into the next one, covering about six stitches over the two spaces. From this point, I will start by making three chains at the first double cochet. Then I will continue the rest of the row with all double crochets. Of course, all the work will be in the back loop. I will repeat the same steps as before until I reach the end of the row, where there is also a decrease for tooth pieces. Here, I will stop working before the tooth basis without making any slip stitches. This is the last double crochet I will work, which goes over the last double crochet before the tooth basis. And with that, I have finished this row. You will just keep repeating these two rows until you reach the desired length. Oh 7. Finishing Touches: Weaving Ends & Blocking the Coaster: Hello, my friend. Now that I have finished the coaster, I can identify the front side by the raised picture. We will start cleaning up the loose threads, thread the needle and with the thread into the back of the work without pulling too tight to avoid altering the shape of the runner. I like to separate the threads strengths and weave each part in separately for extra security. So it doesn't unreveal at all. The most important thing, of course, is to hide the thread on the backside of the work. If there is a short thread that doesn't work with the darning needle, you can tuck it in with the crochet hook itself. It is likely already well secured. Now we only have blocking left. If it is pure cotton yarn, you can steam iron it. But if there is synthetic fiber or a cleric, it is best to stick to the blocking. You get a bowl of water and add some hour gel or shampoo. Then submerge the runner in the water, making sure the water reaches all bots and fully saturates it. Use your hands to help the water penetrate well. Once you are sure it is thoroughly soaked, take it out and debes it gently like this to remove any excess water. Next, get a dry towel suitable for its size and the brass the runner again in the towel to absorb even more water. Then take the boards you will use for blocking and secure the runner with pens, at the corners which tend to curl and need more straightening. Make sure the entire runner is bread out smoothly. Then leave it to air dry completely. This step is important because it enhances such details and smoothes out the beast nicely. You can also add Frene to the front and back edges if you would like. This is the large runner I need, though it hasn't been blocked yet. To add French, cut the desired lens. I read it six times, then thread one end through the edge of the runner like this. Take another strand, wrap it around the French bundle like this, and then create a loop with the end of this thread. Wrap it around the bundle from bottom to top, so that. Once done, you can thread it through the loop from front to back, and pull the lobe thread tightly. This will secure the French and under the wraps. Trim any excess to liking shorter or longer as you prefer. And that's it. Congratulations. Your runner is complete. I hope you enjoyed the journey as much as I did being with you. See you soon in next workshop. 8. Your Project is Complete! Share Your Thoughts & Feedback: Hello, friend. Congratulations on making it to the end of this course. I'm so proud of you for completing your crochet runner brojec. You have learned a versatile design that you can use not only for a runner, but also for creating, matching costers or even a cushion covers. The possibilities are endless. If you have any questions or need any clarifications about any part of the class, please don't hesitate to reach out. I'm here to help and would love to hear from you. And if you enjoyed this class and found it helpful, I would truly appreciate it if you could leave a review in the feedback section. Your support means so much to me and helps others to discover the class, too. Thank you for joining me this create, Jenny, and I can't wait to see what beautiful iss you create. Maybe crocheting. Mm hm.