Draw a Geometric Stone Carved Pentagonal Knot

1. Introduction: This tutorial, you'll learn how to draw this stone carved pentagonal knot found in Turkey. I will teach you how to construct a basic Pentagon grid using a compass and add the lines to create this pattern. Then you will learn how to give the ribbons thickness and weave them on tracing paper. I will also demonstrate how to transfer the design and outline it ready to decorate in your chosen style. This class comes with step by step visual instructions, making this pattern accessible to anyone interested in geometric art, enjoy 2. Project & Materials: This is what you're going to learn to draw. This pentagonal knot that came from a stone carving found in Turkey. This is the original version with the circle around it, and of course, there's an infinite knot in the middle giving the pentagram and Pentagon and another one surrounding it. The same here only I omitted the circle to see how it will look and then emphasizing the star. Of course, you can take inspiration and do it however you like. But this is the construction you're going to learn. You're going to need a ruler. A pencil, an eraser, and most importantly, a compass, ideally, with a pen attachment, since you're going to have quite a few arcs to draw as well, and I always recommend using these. Any other pens, pencils or decoration that you'd like, are used mainly paint for this and some metallic pens to outline, of course, you can use metallic pens or just some acrylic pens or anything you like, really. You could even do black and white and just emphasize the three dimensions. You're also going to need some thick tracing paper. Like this, which will help us transfer the constructive pattern onto a different piece of decorating paper. Of course, you're going to need some watercolor paper if you choose to paint and any normal printing paper to construct on or card if you prefer thicker paper. Good luck and let's get started. 3. Constructing the Pentagon Grid: Okay, then we're ready to begin. The first step, we're going to build our Pentagon based grid. We're going to start finding a center of our page. If you're working on a rectangular piece of paper, have it in a portrait orientation like me. I'm going to use a blue fine liner for my lines and a brown one for my circles. It's up to you if you want to do it with a thicker pen as well because later on we're going to actually use tracing paper to transfer. You might want to work with pencil simply because you can erase lines. If I make a mistake now, I can't erase it. I'm working on an A four, and for me, the center of the A four is 14.85 or just often use eight, 14.8 if that's easier and I like to rotate my page. I have the same on the other side. 14.85, I'm going to start with a horizontal line from the two marks the shorter side of the A four is 21 centimeters. I'm going to mark the center at 10.5. Now the sizing for this, we need to start with a radius that is about half, slightly more than half of the final design. If this is what we're aiming for and we know how much space we have on the same size piece of paper, we have about ten on either side. You always want to leave a bit of a gap, nine will take you here. It's a little bit shorter than twice. I've used the radius of 4.5 here. You can see it gives you a bit of space. If you want to go five, that should be okay, but it's quite close to the edge. I'm going to stick with 4.5 and use my ruler to measure. The pin should be on 4.5 and the pen on zero or the other way around, depending on how you're holding it at the moment. Again, the exact value here isn't as important because it's all about the proportions that will just work from the construction itself. We're going to begin with a circle starting from the middle. And all the way around, you can repeat to make sure it comes through nicely through the tracing paper later. From here, we're going to make two marks on the right hand side by using exactly the same radius and the intersection of the circle we just drew with the existing line in there. I'm just going to make a mark of where it crosses the original circle above and below the horizontal line, and I'm going to do exactly the same on the other side. The initial step essentially splits our circle into six equal arcs. Now with the same radius, I don't need to change it at this point. From the two top marks, I'm going to draw two more arcs and I'm aiming to go above the center and I'm aiming for those two to cross because I need to draw a vertical line through where these two arcs are going to cross. Just for extra accuracy, we could now combine these two, but we're going to add another point below, I'm going to do exactly the same. You could rotate the page if that was easier. Make sure they cross. You can always go back and extend these lines to make sure they cross far enough. Through these two points, this one here and this one here, we're going to draw our vertical axis and that vertical axis is now guaranteed to be at a right angle to the other one that we've already got. You should feel that lovely bump going through the center that we already have used before. Next we're going to use these two points and align them. That will find us half of the original radius. If I align this point here and this one here, together. I'm not going to draw the whole line. I'm just going to mark where that crosses my original horizontal line, which is the radius of that. Now, if I have a look at the distance from here to here, this should be half of the radius we used at the start and from here to here, of course, should be the same distance. You can use both to measure. Now we're going to pin this point here and we're going to now find a diagonal that goes from the top point to this halfway point. This was here part of a square if we completed it this way. But we're going to go from half of one of the sides to the top of the other. We're going to open our compass to this exact length. If it's easier for you to see it, you could of course use my printed notes, but it is that diagonal here. You could draw it for yourself first using your ruler and align it this way. I just don't like to overwhelm the construction, if possible. For extra accuracy, the same distance should be from here down to the other point. Maybe we could use it. This one looks a little bit too wide. I'm a little bit closer to the bottom than the top, so I'm going to shorten it a little bit. You can gently dab your pen or pencil just to see where it's going to land. I'm going to do the same here. That's about. With that distance, having measured it, I've only used this to measure it. But what I actually need is a mark on the opposite side. Basically, if I was to draw circle here, it would go through that point and the bottom point. I don't need the circle, I just needed to know where it crosses this. Now notice this is right in the middle, this is not. This is longer because we use the diagonal, not just the side length. Ultimately, the length we actually want for our five circles that are going to go around creating a pentagon is that distance from here to here. This is the radius of the pentagon. I'm going to start from the top and measure that distance. Of course, that's a little bit longer as it should be. Again, you might want to just check that distance here is about maybe take the average if it feels like it's not quite right because this is always a tricky one to get right, but it doesn't matter. We can adjust it. This is how we make pentagon. I think I'm going to go with this. I'm tabbing gently here, it comes through there. Now with this length, I'm now committing to drawing a full circle at the top, starting from the intersection of the original circle. And all the way around. This is exactly correct. I just felt it go through that bump here and that is because this is the precise radius we wanted and it does go below here because this is a shorter length, that's correct. Now, from the two intersections between the two circles that we formed, we're going to draw two more circles with the same radius. Going to start with this one here and hope that is correct. Now when I draw this circle, it should also go through the top here. They should meet where the intersection is. They gosh. Excellent. From there, because that radius is the same, that is the same, that is the same to here as well from there. Now from that point as well, same radius. Again, it should go through the top as it is here, full circle here. All the way around. Now what is very comforting that should happen to you is also that these two side circles will cross on the vertical line. Not too much either side. Of course, some variation is normal. Now the scariest part here is that we've drawn the three there. We've got two more, of course, to make the five equally spread. Now the question is, will the distance between that point and that point match accurately all the other distances we've just done so far? Because we should have the same exact length. Let's try it. From here will be the next. Circle and from here as well. The question is, does it go through the point we want it to go through? If it doesn't, you can slightly adjust your measurement. This is mine. I'm going with it. It goes through there, it should go through there. I felt the bump. That was not too bad. Finally, all three are meeting there. You just take your best spot in between where all three meet what should happen now is this should go through both neighboring intersections, this one and this one. Yes, like this. I felt it through here as well. This is our pentagonal grid finished. 4. Adding Lines of Symmetry: We're going to need to draw some lines to create that pentagonal symmetry. I'm going to take my other pen. For each of those five points in turn, actually one's been done for us already, we're going to draw an axis that go through it. From this shape here, I'm going to start top left. This big almond shape, mandla as the Italians would say, I'm going to create from the intersection at the top, through to the center, and it should also go through the smaller petal on the opposite side of the circle. That's the center of the opposite circle. Well, it lies on the original. The top intersection, middle and through to the petal on the other side, which is the center of that and extend. Make sure you extend out of the design. We're going to move on to the next petal. We're focusing on these big MandlasTp intersection on the outside, through the center and then through the center of the opposite circle, which is the tip of that small petal. The nice extended line. Now, don't get confused with this horizontal. That's just there. That's fine. We're just traveling around as we were. This is the outer point, midpoint, and then the center opposite. Here we go. And extend. My ruler sometimes slides across the paper, so I have to be very careful to pin it in the middle, so my weight is distributed evenly. If I hold my ruler closer to one end than the other, often it will wobble like that and it creates me an issue. Going down, we've already done this one, the vertical one that went through the big petal and the center and there. In fact, we drew the circles afterwards and they very kindly crossed exactly where we needed them to. We know we've done it right. Finally, this one here at the bottom left center and the center opposite. This is how we split the entire page into five if you ignore the horizontal line. Where is the pentagon we actually want in our design? Well, it is this one. These are the extension of them. They look more like stars, pentagrams which curve at the end. The main pentagon we wanted is this one in the middle and that's the one with the size we've been working with. Therefore, this is the size on the inside that we want. All we're going to do now is connect the five vertices, it's pointing upwards, so starting here from the top and follow the five petals on the inner circle, one, two, three, four, five, but making sure to extend the lines. We're going to do the first one here. Make sure you go through these two bumps, hold this nice and securely so it doesn't slip and extend your line as far in both directions as you can. Then I'm just going to rotate my ruler from the second point down to the next. There's the next two tips of these inner petals. A line, hold steady, extend a big line. Then it's the bottom. You can see how it's shaping up. Bottom two, there's always going to be one that's horizontal. It will be parallel to the original axis, extend, go through the two points, rotate again. Now we are on the other side. You can see now the symmetry of these two. Finally, this. We do have a pentagram inside, inside of our design. The way this works is connecting the other five points that lie on the circle that we drew originally. They are crossed by the axis the diagonals that we drew all way down here. They're all in the middle in between the ones we already have. We're now going to draw lines parallel. From here, we're going to go down to here. This one's pointing down, not up, and it's going to go parallel to this here. From there to there, can you see? And this. Then we're going to go from here to there from here to there, that will be parallel to this. You could extend those lines. I just don't think we need any further lines in the way later on. From here down to here, again, use the parallel lines to help you. They are the edges of the middle pentagon. Look at that. These two crossed exactly on the axis as they should. That means we're doing something right. Now, the two across, they're the ones that will be parallel to the base. Again, it should go through these two points where we've got two lines crossing already. It's so nice when they are crossing in the right place. Finally, these two, again, parallel to the outer edge, always use that to help you through these two points where things have already been crossing. This is the inner pentagram that points downwards in the design, and we've drawn the outer pentagon, that is the main base of the design and the extension of these is what will lead to the rest of those curves. 5. Thickening the Pentagons: Okay, it is time now to think about how we thicken the ribbons in order to be able to weave because weaving is a process of taking two dimensional ribbons and creating that three dimensional effect by erasing some lines and giving the illusion of one going above the other. But at the moment, or lines are one dimensional. We haven't given them a thickness yet. In order to preserve the proportions of any design we've drawn. We have to add equal amounts of thickness on the inner and outer edge of it in order to create this. Basically, the lines we've drawn are the ones we don't see that are right in the middle of our pattern. We need to thicken everything the same distance either side. All we need to do now is roughly fine halfway through this and then thicken that outwards, thicken that inwards, that will be about half. At this point, I will just say here, don't worry too much about it. We're just going to take roughly what half we think it is. If we measure that distance from here to here, I'm getting about 8 millimeters or something even. That's good. Mine is a little bit longer, actually, 8.5, but I'll try and find the center at about four. That's my center here. I want the same distance on the other side at the top of that point, the same distance below as above. All we're going to do now is to ensure that halfway point is transferred elsewhere in the whole design. We're just going to draw a full circle with that distance. We're going to find a distance that we feel is about halfway. Maybe a bit higher. Just try it a little bit between these two. Once we're happy with that, we're just going to draw and I'm going red here because I'm going to be using that underneath the tracing paper and I want it to really stand out and it's going to show us this. What is that done now is that this point, where the red circle is is shown us about halfway between these two and so it's here, here. Here and so on, at all the intersections that we're going to need later. With the same distance, we're now going to enlarge the circle to find the other side of it. It's about here. Again, try it to see if you visually think that is the same as that to me, looks a bit too big. Yeah, I think that's about right. Make another circle and that should be about the same distance on both sides of the original circle that we drew there. The outer points of that same distance will be here. This ribbon here is going to get thickened by that much on that side and the same on the other side. Now I'm going to take a piece of board that I know I can move around on my surface. I'm going to secure my original design on that by using duct tape or masking tape on top, I'm going to lay my piece of tracing paper. Now, for this part, I'm going to use a pencil. Let's begin with the pentagon part, we're going to do the inner parts of the ribbons of that pentagon part, of course, by extending, but we're going to focus on the one that points upwards. So there's the red circle on the inside, and we're going to draw parallel to the blue lines of the original pentagon, but on the inside of that. There's one of the sides of the pentagon, but I'm going to align the two points that are just below that lie on the red circle where that crosses the axis. Again, I'm going to extend as far as I can. I want to make sure pencil is nice and sharp and do that. I'm just going to rotate to the next line of the Pentagon. The point I've just used and the next one down on the same inner circle. Of course, always draw it in a way that you don't block the original line because we are trying to be as accurate and parallel as possible. That helps you align adjust if you need to. Nice, sharp line. Turn down. This is the next one, gain through these two points. See, for me, this part looks a bit wider than the top, so I can slightly adjust my ruler. Go for it. Turn over to the bottom, be careful here. I will rotate this because I don't want to block my view and get this wrong. If I did it from that side, I can't really see whether I'm doing the parallel okay. We're doing it this way. I can see how well it's aligning. Next, we're ready to go on the outer side of this about the same distance. We're going to use the outer red circle. Now, I don't block the lines I've already made. I'm going to start at the bottom here rather than at the top. I can see the original blue line underneath and I can see the inwards thickened ribbon as well. I'm going to use points on the outer edge of the circle. And the corresponding lines they're crossing and making sure that my lines are roughly parallel and extend outside. Going to rotate and continue in the same way until I've done all five. What we're going to do now is do the other five lines, but without crossing through the middle, so it doesn't get too crowded. What I mean by this is every point in between the five that we've already drawn, we're going to do the same thing. Let's start from here. You need to ignore these lines here now, the outer line of the previous pentagon, and just focus on the red circle and the point that it touches the axis and join that with the next one. Just going to draw outwards from the point outwards from the point outwards, but that way we're skipping the inside. Notice how we don't quite reach to the bottom of there, even though it's not an issue if you do. I'm going to rotate and I'm going to find the point I just used, the last point we've used with the next one on the inner red circle. But jumping over the edge of the Pentagon, going outwards in both directions. Rotate. Now this other star is being done, that's the one on the outside. We're going to do the same on the outer edge of the red circle. I'm going to start with this line here on that side. This is the inner side of the circle. Now we're going to go to the outer side of the circle using these two points. Outer circle, s two axes and make sure it runs parallel to the inner part of the ribbon and again only extend outwards. S. 6. Thickening the Pentagram: Let's thicken the inner pentagram. To do that, we're going to do the inner lines first and for the very inner lines, we're going to use the inner ribbon of the pentagon. Starting top left, this is the middle of the inner edge of the Pentagon and where it crosses one of the original axes. Skip to the next one, and we're using the inner point and the next one and the next one and the last one. These are the five points we're going to now join together and we don't need to extend any further than where they are. We're going to start here and join these two, top left, bottom middle, just like this. Then I'm going to turn from bottom middle to the top right that runs parallel to here. That gives the desired thickness going inwards. Turn that way down to the bottom left. Again, same thick as. From here, go across. Now here is a little bit harder to see because we're blocking our view. You can turn around if you want to wish to see it. I'm just going to go for. And finally, complete the star on the inside. Put clues how our lines should be going through these intersections as well. Now, to find the outer edge of the pentagram, this is a little bit different and it's a circle that we haven't drawn yet. It's also the circle we need to locate all the centers of these curves that we're going to need in the next part. I love it when we get to a step that unlocks the next several steps all at once efficiently. We couldn't find that circle though until we just thickened those existing ribbons from the pentagon. Where all the inner corners of the pentagons meet? This is how far we need to get to. This point here, for example, here, here, and so on. Using those centers we just did, I'm going to actually draw a circle underneath, you should be able to see on your own paper where you marked that cross section. This is where the next circle from the center needs to be. That extends exactly to the centers of the little curves we'll be doing at the end. Check it all. Nice and a nice definitive circle here because that will help us go back to here. So you can see how that last red circle goes all the way up to there. Now that means we can finish thickening the ribbons. Now, see what I mean. This is the inner side of that ribbon and we are now going to use the outer circle we just drew underneath to align it and that gives us the same thickness on the other side. We actually don't need to go all the way to there. We only really need the ribbon to go within the Pentagon. That might be a good idea now if I delete it. I delete this outer part here, it doesn't go beyond that edge. I'm actually going to delete that because again, this is the bit we'd like to transfer as neatly as possible. I'm going to just align these outer corners, but I'm not going to draw outside of the inner pentagon edges. Let's try that. For the next one. I'm going to rotate the paper this way because I'd like to do this one. I'm aligning my ruler using the outer red circle points alongside the pentagram edge. Same thickness on the other side. I'm only going to draw. I'm going to identify where the edges of my pentagon ends and on the other side as well and stop there. Rotate and finish all five using those outer red. Marks. This is the full Pentagon now thickened, it merges into these edges and we've got all the other straight lines thickened. Don't worry about some of the overlaps just yet. 7. Thickening the Curves: Okay. We're now ready to start drawing the ten circular arcs around the edge to complete it. Now at this point you might want to have re sharpened your pencil and we're going to need the compasses for that. The good news is that that outer red circle that we already drew underneath and used as a guide for our pentagram is where all arcs are going to lie on. Let me start at the top. Outermost circle. This will be the center of the arc where every radial line crosses that circle. Now the question is how far do we go out? We do at the inc nearest intersection between the inner corner of the line coming out. This is the outside of the pentagon, which becomes inner on that side of it, and the inner side of the other pentagon. This is it here. Of course, let's just check it, but it should be the same distance. For all of those arcs. If it looks like they're a bit wide, you can adjust each time. I'm going to start here and just do an arc from the inner corner to the next nearest in the corner and stop there. I'm going to rotate and do the next one. Again, recheck that it reaches far enough that it's central enough in between the two points if you need to, there you go. You can start seeing it. We have to repeat this on all ten. They're all exactly the same. The differences are in between, but not on the outside, so just repeat for all. This is now the inner arcs completed. The outer arcs are all coming out of exactly the same centers, but different radius, you can guess it, they will meet on the middle of each of the arcs where they reached as far as this. Let's just do the top one. I should be something like that. We should continue doing that for all the rest. The outer arcs are now the same. I'm done. The final circle we're going to need to do here is to complete the look of this as if it's a medallion with a circle on the outside. We're going to need two points. The inner point of the outer circle is, of course, going to be a point that touches the edge of any of the curves we've done, for example, this one here, here, just pick anyone you want. You should just brush on the outside of all of those arcs. The question is how to find how far out our circle is going to go in order to have the same distance? Well, if you see some of the original brown circles underneath the ones from the five fold design, where they cross the inner lines of the Pentagon, here and here, this is the distance. We need to extend that circle by in order to have the same width. On the other side, I'll show you two other points you could use. There this is where one of the five fold circles underneath crosses the inner side of the pentagon. There's another one and it should look about the same. Do a full circle? This is the entire tracing done. 8. Weaving the Ribbons: For this part, we are ready to prepare our paper to transfer. I'm going to take this off just for a moment. I'm going to use the same paper that we've already used for our original grid. That sometimes happens where it actually strips some of my paper, be careful when you rip yours off. I'm just going to turn this over. I just need a bit of white space to be able to see what we've actually built on the tracing paper. I'm just going to flip that back to show you what we have. Now we can see what we have. We don't even need to be secure down, but we will be. The great news about this now is that we have all the correct lines and the weaving just requires erasing some little arcs of this in order to make it appear like it goes in and out. Of course, the tracing paper is perfect for that. It's smooth and pencil marks come out really easily. If we get rid of the wrong one, we can easily add it and rectify it before any of the transferring happens. I'm going to start with inner pentagram. The first thing I want to do is erase the marks which make the pentagram sites join into the pentagon. There's the pentagram edges and then they should just blend into the side of the pentagon. These two here, these two, these two, these two. That already feels like one continuous loop. Now, to make this, we're going to start with making sure this ribbon, as it goes down, it goes over the one below for it to look like it goes over, we're just going to erase the two marks within the ribbon as we go in that direction. It's one continuous line. It's the one underneath that is broken into two. Once we've gone over in the first part, the second part needs to go under. By saying under, it means we're going to delete the other way. It's usually if you first delete it vertically, you next delete horizontally. That is the rule. If that continued, you just go that way. If you delete down, delete across, and that's it. Now I'm going to rotate and I want to recreate exactly the same thing on this bit. However, as you can see, by deleting the previous one, we've already done that. Delete down, the next one, delete across. The ribbon is going over and then under and by doing that, we have now made the next one over under by going across. Rotate, we've already gone over. I'm going to go under. Rotate, we've already gone over, and we've already gone under complete. You can either do one full ribbon at the time and then rotate or just do one part of the knot, then rotate and repeat and then it will be complete. Our knot is completed and it's blended in with the pentagon. Now we need to look at the outer curves because they're a bit easier to do than the middle. We're going to do the outer curves first because they are the same at every curve. At every curve, we're going to go over on the left. I want this part to go over this part, meaning everything inside it, I want to delete. There. Make a clean path there. If your arc disappears a little bit, you can just repeat it. This part here I'm happy with. Now I'm going to keep exactly the same orientation and do this nine more times. This is this curve. I want to go over here. Nothing in my way. I've got a line and two little side segments to do. To let's a clear path. Repeat. Next and just for clarity, I'm going to delete this little line here because it's inside the ribbon and we don't need it. It's not actually part of the weaving. This is already going under here, but it's just cleaning up that part. I'm just going to go ahead and delete all of them. The final and possibly trickiest part will be to weave this part here. We need to make sure it alternates. For example, on this ribbon here, this is going underneath that one underneath. Here it needs to go above that means deleting down. Because essentially, if you go down the ribbon, we've gone across, now down. Now here we're just going to blend these in because we want that to be one continuous line. This is not weave. These are just one continuous line that splits into four, under this has to go under, you go across and then that already has gone over by skipping here. In other words, when we look at the pentagon, we start at the top with this was a vertical delete going down over, then horizontal. Rotate, vertical, which we've now done, merge these two, then horizontal. Rotate, that's the vertical we've done, merge these two, sideways and finish off the five sides this way. This is the entire knot weaved. Of course, there's no lines that we need through here, but I'm not going to delete them. We're just going to transfer the circle that we want at the end. This is it. Now this is ready to go and be transferred on a different piece of paper on which you intend to decorate it. 9. Transferring the Pattern: Because I'm going to want to paint this, I'm going to transfer it onto my 300 GSM watercolor paper. Now, the pencil marks are still facing upwards. I'm going to take this off and make sure I flip it in a way that it's going to touch the bottom of the paper. The shiny part of the pencil will face down. I haven't found the center of my page. I'm just going to use this as guide by eye and roughly top and bottom. It doesn't really matter to me, transferring it onto there. Now, we could go over all of these lines individually and it will take a long time, but we will get a nice crisp edge. What is worth trying is to use a spoon or something with a sharp metal edge and press hard on each of the lines to transfer. We're going to do that first because it's by far the fastest way to do it. I'm going to start from the middle. Let's see how it's come out. Now, sometimes it doesn't matter how hard you press. It comes out quite faint. Hopefully, you can see it better on your own page. This is going to vary with the thickness of the tracing paper and of course, the softness of the pencil. If it doesn't come out, all we have to do is just go over with the compass and sharp edge. In fact, you might want to change. Your pencil with something even sharper, but this should do the trick. If you just repeat all the lines because the pressing down in a specific area will force the pencil to come out more defined. Let's have a look at those four compared to the other ones. You can see these much clearer than the neighboring ones. I'm going to complete that. You could complete that on the tracing paper, or if you can see the lines here, you could just re outline directly on here. 10. Outlining the Knot: Okay, I have re outlined the pencil marks to make them a bit sharper on my watercolor paper. I can see them as long as you can see your own as well. Now you can outline the pattern ready for painting. That means you either need a waterproof fine liner of any thickness that you might want to paint over or within. Or a metallic pen or paint. Now, if you're going to use metallic paint by hand, I would do that at the very end to make sure the Shima stays on top. However, I'm using a paint based metallic marker, which is waterproof. What that's going to do is push away the water from the edges or preserve each of the little areas together. I'm going to go to outline before I paint. I'm going to start with my arcs because if my arcs are slightly off, it's easier to align the edges of each arc with a straight line later on, even if the line is slightly wobbly. It's a good idea to adjust the lines later after the circles. I'm just going to repeat those all the way around, try not to go too far from where each two arcs meet because the rest will be joined by straight line. Just repeat all the way around. In the same way now, I'm going to adjust my radius to the inner part of the circles and repeat those as well. Now, give it a few moments to dry so that the pen doesn't smudge. Then once you're ready to start again, what we're going to do is flip the ruler over. It's really important that you're not using a ruler that is completely equally flat on both sides. Nowadays, most rulers are not flat. They will have not a rectangular but more retropezium cross section, meaning that on one side, the edge of the ruler isn't going to directly be touching the paper. Let me show you what I mean. I put it this way and then tilt it. That way. Of course, that's a little bit dangerous, but it's showing you that it's not touching that meaning you're not going to ruin your ruler and ruin the actual design by smudging it. I'm going to start here because I like to be able to see mostly what's on the right or my dominant side. Also, I like to start with the left hand side of each ribbon. The reason why is because I can see on the right where to stop, where I can continue, where I need to skip, and so on. It helps me with the weave. Now, when I use my pen, I'm going to be holding it directly down, not like this, but down because I want to ensure that my pen ink does not touch my ruler, but it touches just below on the paper. Let's see what we have here. We have one continuous line, stop here, then one short line. This is helping me remember where I need to lift my pen off. I'm now going to use these two points to align my ruler. This is what I meant earlier that if our circles are in place, then our line can just connect the points and it doesn't matter what the line underneath was. I'm going to hold it like this. It's blocking the view a bit, but it's important that you're holding it as vertical as possible at right angles to the paper. And glide to release the ink, jump over here, and then go to the next circle there. I joined here. It started a bit thin on that end. It wasn't quite ready when I started. I'm going to rotate Now, because I'm using the opposite side of the ruler, there's very little touching between the ruler and the paper, so it's very unlikely to smudge. At some point we're going to have to overlap. I'm going to do this one, bearing in mind here, I have to jump, but this one is quite easy to see and remember. I'm aligning the ruler with these two points that are now dry on the outer side of the circles and I'm only going two short lines parallel to this, stop, and just on the other side. Vertically, and here vertically until it joins. This one goes a little bit longer because it joins all the way up to the circle because this one goes over. I'll just repeat this one because the ink has come out a little thinner there. That's a nice seamless joint there. Rotate again. This time we'll have the other type, the really long line, small jump, short line, line using the outer circles. Who vertically and go slowly to make sure ink comes out evenly, all the way to the next ribbon, stop, jump over, and all the way to the circle and make sure this joins nicely. I'll repeat this one. It's come out a little bit thinner again. Rotate. This is the two short edges. Again, a line. If you're worried, this will smudge give it a few seconds, focus on the two outer points. Hold down into shorter edges. Stop here. This one is the one that's a little bit longer until it joins the arc. This one joins the arc, which this one was shorter and complete the same way all the way around. Oh Again, give you a few moments to try out. This time we're going to do the inner parts of the same ribbons that we did. Outer ribbons, but inner lines, I like to see the lines we've already done on my right. I'm going to start working from within even though I'm overlapping the rest. I can see now that I've got this part to here, jump over, then two short parts. This is an obvious here, but I must remember that the inner one stops and then it goes all the way to the end. From here, I know it stops to the next line. From here, it stops until the middle ribbon. There's a gap, and then the second ribbon goes. Over here. This is what we're looking for now, this one's slightly too thin, I'm going to repeat it. This is what we want. I'm going to rotate now. Now the next type are the two shorter types where here it goes from the circle to the corner and from here only to the corner to the next line. Look at your parallels. This is the one that goes all the way to the corner. This is the one that stops at the next rhythm. This one stopped to the ribbon. This one went to the corner, rotate and back to the previous one. This goes to the ribbon, then a short segment, then to the next ribbon. Align with these two points where you see any crossing oververs. Now, for me, it's slightly hard because I now have a bit of a shadow from the ruler, so I have to be very careful. I don't think that's where the pen edge is, but instead, that's my shadow. I have to be careful depending on your light. Okay. So this, stop over. This one looks a little messy for some reason. Jump over and to the next. Then we've got the two shorter ones. This one goes over and joins this. This one is the slightly shorter one that stops before the previous ribbon. So that goes over. That stops and the ribbon. That stopped here that one went over. Some of mine because obviously this pen is slightly thicker, it's actually touching the edges of the pentagon, that's fine. I'm just going to complete the rest of those inner edges. I made a mistake here on the very last one, typical. Now we're going to do the outer part of the inner pentagram. I'm going to put my ruler here and I know I need a longer edge and then a shorter edge and I'm going to align these two corners. I love how these rhombuses are emphasized. There's some of my favorites in this pattern. Now I'm just going to go on the inner corner of these five lines again this time on the left. This time I have a short and then a long edge. The final step now would be to outline the two circles on the outside, just like we did here and you can see it on the tracing, of course, it's still there and you could see some marks on here. However, I am taking the artistic decision that in my second go at the same pattern, I'd like to decorate it differently and emphasize the beauty of those waves on the outside. I am going to leave it like this and show you two different ways once we're back to decorate. 11. Conclusion: So to decorate this, I took two different ways. I firstly painted the weave with two of my favorite colors and made them merge together. I felt like it lacked some contrast. So I added these black parts in between and for those that I left white, for extra contrast, I outlined with a bit of black on either side of the gold because the gold right next to the paint didn't stand out as much as I wanted to. Now, you could add some shading in here as well. I decided not to because I thought the black was sufficient. I really like how the black emphasizes the curves on the outside and that circular medallion finish, which matches the original. The second way I did it, I decided to emphasize all these curves and left it without the full circle at the end. The other thing I really wanted to emphasize is this golden star that wasn't really part of the weave in the middle. I left the weave in the middle white and because I added bright colors in between the white, I know that stands out on its own. And then I thought I'll make that surrounding star gold as well. I gave you a tiny little bit of a border there. Some of the paint didn't dry quite to my liking, so I used a little bit of acrylic on top to smooth it out and to me, that is nice and finished. The pattern gives so many ways and suggestions of how to do it. But more importantly, I hope you enjoy the process of learning this fivefold shape. I hope you share your own versions. There's several different ways to do it down below in the project section so we can admire the work you've done. You could leave a review if you'd like. You could also share it with me via my Instagram page and see you soon for the next one.