Bladesmithing Class 3: Making a Stock Removal Blade | Barrett Knives | Skillshare
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Bladesmithing Class 3: Making a Stock Removal Blade

teacher avatar Barrett Knives

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      4:16

    • 2.

      Pros and Cons of Stock Removal

      4:48

    • 3.

      Design

      5:03

    • 4.

      Cutting the Design

      4:06

    • 5.

      Prepping the Tang

      5:15

    • 6.

      Midway Motivation: It Won't Be Perfect

      5:00

    • 7.

      Adding the Bevels

      4:13

    • 8.

      Heat Treat

      6:10

    • 9.

      What's Next

      3:59

    • 10.

      Class Project

      2:39

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About This Class

NOTE: This is class 3 of a series of classes designed to start you off on the right path to blade smithing. For introductions and important information, be sure to watch class 1: Introduction and class 2: Basics.     

Welcome everyone, my name is Trevor, and I will get right to it. I am a self taught, full time bladesmith right here in Alaska. I made this course to help you start your path down bladesmithing. Whether you are interested in this amazing craft because of tv, video games, books, history, or just the desire to create something with your own two hands, you’re in the right spot. Really, whatever reasons you have or looking into this, you’ll love this class. 

Because to be totally honest, almost everyone can start bladesmithing. I am just some random guy who one day gave it a shot. I had no training, no experience, and being in rural Alaska, I had nowhere to go for help. So trust me when I say that if I can learn how to do this, so can you. And obviously, I want to help. 

In this class, you’ll learn right from your own home everything you need to know in order to start bladesmithing. This means I’ll tell you how to get equipment you need, how to set up a shop, how to design blades for certain purposes, and how to make them high functioning pieces of art. 

    Check out the class outline below for a clear idea of what to expect!

 

Class 1: Startup

  1. What to Expect From This Class
  2. Get to Know the Instructor
  3. Tour of the Forge
  4. Stock removal vs. Forging
  5. Basic Gear vs Intermediate Gear 
  6. A Note on Safety
  7. Shop Layout Sample
  8. Weather Considerations
  9. What’s Next
  10. Class Project: What's Your Reason?

 

Class 2: Basics

  1. Overview of Knife Making
  2. Steel Choice
  3. Handle Material
  4. Hammers
  5. Forges
  6. Midway Motivation: Expect Failure
  7. Anvils
  8. Explaining Heat Treat (Thermocycle, Quench, Tempering)
  9. What’s next
  10. Project: Design Your Blade

 

Class 3: Making a Stock Removal Blade

  1. Introduction 
  2. Benefits and Downsides of Stock Removal
  3. Design
  4. Cutting out the Design
  5. Prepping the Tang
  6. Midway Motivation: It Won’t Be Perfect!
  7. Adding Bevels
  8. Heat Treat
  9. What’s Next
  10. Project: Cut Out a Simple Blade

 

Class 4: Forging a Basic Blade

  1. Introduction 
  2. Benefits and Downfalls of Forging/Design
  3. Notes on Heat Control
  4. Forging the Blade
  5. Forging the Tang
  6. Heat Treat
  7. Cleanup/Blade Finish
  8. Sharpening
  9. What’s Next
  10. Project: Show Me Your Blade

 

Class 5: Handle Making

  1. Introduction (Comfort, Style, Finish)
  2. Notes on Adhesive
  3. Hidden Tang Handle
  4. Full Tang Handle
  5. Paracord Handle
  6. Wooden Handle
  7. Antler/Bone Handle
  8. Spacers
  9. What’s Next
  10. Project: Show Me Your Handle

 

Class 6: Finishes

  1. Introduction
  2. What to Avoid
  3. Forge Scale
  4. Polished
  5. Satin
  6. Midway Motivation: Take Your Time
  7. Etching
  8. Texturing
  9. What’s Next
  10. Project: Show Me Your Finish

 

Class 7: Sharpening

  1. Introduction
  2. Safety
  3. Sharpening Vs Honing
  4. Methods
  5. Angles and Applications
  6. Cutlery
  7. Camp Knife
  8. Testing
  9. What’s Next
  10. Project: Demonstrate Your Edge

 

Class 8: Forging Large Blades

  1. Introduction
  2. Small Vs Large Blades
  3. Heat Control on Large Blades
  4. Forging
  5. Midway Motivation: Entirely New Challenge
  6. Grinding
  7. Balance
  8. Finish
  9. What’s Next
  10. Project: Forge a Blade at Least 15” Long

Class 9: Forging Damascus

Class 10: Forging Sanmai

Class 11: Recap and Reminders

  1. Introduction
  2. Forging
  3. Handle Making
  4. Heat Treat
  5. Midway Motivation: You’re Just Getting Started
  6. Finishes
  7. Sharpening
  8. Testing
  9. What’s Next
  10. Project: Show Me A Finished, Sharpened Blade

 

Class 12: What Now?

  1. Introduction
  2. What to Expect From Bladesmithing Now
  3. Hobbyist Vs Business
  4. How to Progress
  5. Growing From Failures
  6. Future of This Class
  7. What’s Next
  8. Project: Tell Me What You Want to Forge Next

 

Class 13: Forging a Kukri

Class 14: Forging a Seax

Class 15: Forging a Katana

Class 16: Forging a Viking Sword

Class 17: Forging a Gladius

Class 18: Forging a Spear

And more...

 

Meet Your Teacher

Hunter, Husband, Fulltime Bladesmith

Born and Raised Alaska

See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Welcome back everybody. We are on Class 3 now of how do we become a blade Smith? Less than one is going to be an introduction. What exactly is stock removal and what are some of the consideration with it? Lesson 2 will be some of the pros and cons, and then we'll get to work. So if you've been watching and following for classes 12, then you know exactly what we're getting into. You've got a good idea of what you need for items and materials and equipment to get going. So let's talk about stock removal is the process of removing the material by either grinding it or cutting it out in order to shape it into a knife. Now a lot of people will tell you that stock removal for, produces an inferior product. And that foraging is the only way to go. You'll get a lot of foraging and purists. I do forge the vast majority of my blades. However, in my experience, I've been doing this for years now. I do not personally think that stock removal is a lesser form of night making. It is simply a different form of myth-making. And the reason why they say that is because it is true that forging a blade can produce a better quality blade, but it's only able to do so by master smiths, people who really know what they're doing. Because it's easier to make a mistake before gene that could prove to be catastrophic later on. Whereas with stock removal, it's easier to control and it's easier to not damage the material while you're working it. And it's easier to produce what you would design them. So we'll get into the pros and cons about in Lesson 2 of Chapter 3. But I wanted to make sure that if you've heard that stock removal is inferior, in my opinion, it is not inferior. I don't master smiths who are still doing stock removal on some of their blades. In fact, for myself, I actually do a combination. Sometimes I'll forge perhaps the blade and cut out the handle or whatever. It really depends on what it is I'm going for. So yes, most of my blades are forged out, but I will still use stock removal and other times. So it's really up to you. So that's why we're going to handle how to do stock removal so that you have a wide range of options available to you on making nice. Now with stock removal, you will still need to be able to heat the steel in order to quench it and heat treat the material. So you could very easily go from a stock removal method and learn how to forge. But honestly, I kinda recommend starting with stock removal because it teaches you the basics first without having to worry about in arguably more technical side, and that is forging. So you've got your material, I hope. And you've got a workshop. You need a mini grinder and either files or perhaps maybe a belt sander like a one by three belt sander or two by 72. That's a bigger one. But you could do it all with a mini grinder, an angle writer. You've got cutting disk, grinding disk and you've got flat disks. It will not produce the previous bleed, but it will work just fine. So don't worry about that. As for heating, you could use a torch and do an edge quench which will show you later. Or you can use, get a really cheap for GE off of Amazon. I think it's under a $100 for a really high-quality propane forage or you could do cold. Like we talked in, I believe Class 2. We discussed some of this. So we need to go back and talk about some of that. Watch out again in order to see what you need for your setup. I would encourage you to do so. But for now, we're going to be making a stock removal blade, which is not necessarily inferior, but it can be limiting. Comes up. Well in class three, less than two. We're going to talk exactly about that. Some of the pros and cons of stock removal. So here we go. 2. Pros and Cons of Stock Removal: Okay, so welcome, Class 3, less than 2. Let's talk about some of the pros and cons of stock removal. Now, one of the pros of stock from here right into it is that it's very easy to learn, especially when compared to foraging blade up. Almost anybody can just pick up a few key items and then cut a blade and grind out the shape of a blade. You don't need a lot of experience and you don't need a lot of equipment to do so. Now that being said, one of the cons is that you are limited. For instance, let's say you a 12 inch long and ancient and have wide piece of steel, three sixteenths thick. That's a really good starting area for knife. If you're using stock removal to make a knife. So you design and draw out a design on that material. You are limited by the size of the material, by what you can do. So if it's a one inch wide, That's why does your weight is going to get. And keep in mind that when you then grind a lot of times you lose size and say the profile. So what you need to do is make sure you by piece that big enough handle a project that you're working on. Especially when considering if you want to do a curve, you need a wide enough peace to design and cut that curve into it. So you are limited in your ability to shape a knife in certain aspects because you only do the shape to the materials in. Another pro, you need limited equipment in order to start kind of goes with the other one. But truthfully, like I believe we said in the last one, uses the saved maybe have many grinder with a few different disks and acclaim. And then you need a way to heat treat and whatnot. We'll get into that soon. Files health sandpaper really helps, but you can get started incredibly cheap. Whereas with foraging, it usually requires a lot more setup. You need envelope and Neo4j and in all kinds of things in order to produce a blade. So stock removal, very easy to get going. Another con for stock removal though, is that you're also limited in what you can do. So while it is easy to start, you're limited in what you can do because you can't make Damascus without what you need in order to forge. You can't make sand mine. You're very limited to the size of the material. You can't use thicker pieces. You can't manipulate the steel at all. You had to only cut it out. So you're limited in the type of blades that you can produce as well. So it's pretty much just your standard high carbon mono steel, which isn't bad, is very good steel, but you're limited. Now another pro is that it's more difficult to make catastrophic mistakes. With stock removal. I gotta do worry about really is geometry and heat control. And really the heat control for beginner Smith is not really that big of an issue. It's not until you get into more advanced techniques and levels of smithing and making blades. But you need to worry more about and grain structure. But honestly, there's not a lot you can do with stock removal to truly mess up a blade because you're just cutting and grinding it out. And then if you make a mistake, make them smaller, or if you make it a mistake, make it thinner. So you can't make mistakes where it's ruined, but it's much harder to do that. What stock removal? Well, with foraging is very easy to make mistakes between H and the geometry and the way you're hammering and the heat control and everything is so many ways to mess it up. So pros and cons. Another con, I would say, is that it's not important, but a lot of people will look down at the stock removal. Not really knife, maybe you're just cutting steel, but that's not the case. To me. Stop removal is not to make you it's not technically Smith because smithing means to heat and move with metal and hammer. But it's not smithing per se, but definitely knife making. And it's a very valid way of doing it. A lot of the masters still do stock removal. Nothing wrong with it, but it can't be limiting. So that being said, because of the very easy way for beginners to get started, let's get into design. How are you designing your blade and how are we going to get that cut out? 3. Design: Welcome back everybody. Now we are on Class 3, less than 3. Let's talk about design. Now if you did your homework in class too, I believe, and I know what you did or not because you're all here. I see it. If you did your homework, then you will have sent me, or in very least designed the blade that you want to make. And I strongly recommend going through the process of designing and because it just helps you produce a more accurate product. So step one, design the product to go on more or at least have that in mind. Don't just go in there and see what the metal does. Sometimes miss will say that. We'll just see what the metal gods, and that's great. If you've already established your ability to produce something on purpose. Okay, so now we've talked about design and how you're limited with stock removal to the size of the material. For instance, if you want to make it cookery, with that downward sweep, you have to have a material that can incorporate that. So either it needs to be wide enough that you can design it and cut it out. Or you have to find a way to bend the metal. It's give it that sweet on its own. But in order to do that, you would need a lot of different things. So, and one example that cuckoldry, you're limited according to the design. So that's fine though, because you can still make lots of different types of things. She's still me high-quality blades. And it's just difficult, more difficult. According to design and freedom, how many different things you can do. So what we're gonna do for this one, because we're going to make a very simple kind of a hunter blades everyday carried it's called EDC. Know if you've heard that enough. Every day curie is a bot for each blade depends on the regulations of where you are, where you live in, depends on what you're looking to do. So while I prefer larger blades, just because that's just what I like, a small blade is a very, very effective blade. And that's what we're gonna do. And we're going to add a little flair to it by doing a little bit of jumping, but I don't want to get into it because the next lesson, lesson four, you'll see it. We did a little bit of design, but here's what we've got for the design. And whatever you did, you're going to find a way to do it for. Okay, so here's an example. See what you can do with it. Okay, here we are. So I've got this little drawing after you can see, I'm going to be designing a very simple blade. Don't mind me as I twist this guy around a little bit. But what I'm thinking is very simple. Maybe a drop point actually. So we'll widen it a little bit, make it more suitable for human hands. I'll add a little channel here, which I'll cut it with a file. And I'll just mark out my basic idea for the bevel. And we're not going to go super high, but we do want to kinda high. It'll give us a less resistance. Cutting will bring up the handle a little bit here, so that's a little better in the hand. It's not so thin. You don't want you to handle too thin. I'll make it unwieldy. Now if darken it up a little bit, I added some jumping on the back. Pretty much. All that does is give your thumb somewhere for purchase and a little extra grip. If that's what you're looking for. I like it. It's not difficult to do and it's not necessary. But we'll do a drop point here. Like I said, if strengthens the tip a little bit and I like a nice sweep and make sure that soft so it doesn't cut your hand. Given a nice neck. Darken it. I wanted a little bit thicker there. Excuse me while I mess around with drawing app. Okay. Now we add our pinholes just so that I know that that's what I'm going to do in case I want to put some scales on it. Here we go. We'll do the chiral. Now let's erase it to. So I guess first I decided to do the bevel here. A medium bevel is a balanced between strength and sharpness. So it's not like a wedge, but it's not going to sacrifice too much strength. Now the Jinping, I'm going to be using a cutting disk on an angle grinder. Make it really easy. So now we're gonna go through and erase the little parts you see, get a clear idea that soil here that I'm adding aids in sharpening. I'll show you how later. It makes it a lot easier and it helps clean things up. Gibbering is not going to include any of these little lines here. There's a little bit of a rough sketch B, you get the idea. That's what it's going to look like. Look at your design and let's go cut it out. 4. Cutting the Design: All right, Let's talk about some of the different things you're going to need to do stock removal. First of all, you're going to need to steal. Check for the other class about your steel choice. But a brief explanation is I recommend ten, 95 high carbon steel. Choose whatever size and thickness you want. This is a good one. It's 1.5 wide and 36 inches long. Now get yourself a Sharpie. Gets so plenty of protective equipment and we'll talk about that later. But you'll also need some sort of an angle grinder. Now you'll notice I've got a cutting blade on it. This is great. This is brand new, but it's pretty new. Here's an older one. Here's a worn-out one. Don't start trusting them when they start looking ragged eat because they can break. And that's not what you want. So take your design and let's draw out how we want them to look like. You'll notice that it's all squaring goals, right? So if you're going to start removable, Let's just do a very simple hunting knife. Okay, So let's see, let's say about four inches or so the forages. Okay. For me, the width of my hand is about four inches, so it gives me a guide. But of course you can be more precise. Now, let's give it a slight drop point. And we can always make it more if we want. And let's give it a nice, gentle, sweet. Always cut it a little big because the more you go. All right, okay, let's make it a four inch blade, so we'll do the 12 there. That's about four inches. Always go a little big. So you have room in order to grind it back to shape. Already a little jumping as well. You can eyeball it, you can mark it, do whatever you like. Okay. Now, we're going to do a very simple handled. A little flare here. And it looks good to me. We're here. And that's a basic look of what we're gonna do. And just to help me visualize, I'm going to go about halfway up that soil. And we're going to do just for fun, let's do a high level. That's not very accurate, but you get the idea. Okay, Now let's cut it out. Alright, so you'll see that I have some angle iron clamped into my vice which is on a stand. And then from there I used to see claim to clamp my material down to the angle iron. Make sure you don't cut into the angle iron. So have a hang off just a little bit and then cut off the basic chunk of your steel. Now, I've made a little div for the child there, which I'll clean up later with a file. But here's how we do some of the details on the handle. These are the basic guides and then you can adapt it to whatever design you have. Just do lots of tiny little cuts like this. Being careful not to twist the angle grinder so that it doesn't catch and shoot out of your hands. Make sure you wear lots of different PPE, gloves, eyeglasses, hearing protection, maybe even a mask. And then once you make all of your tiny little incisions, all you gotta do is go read along down on the nail chip off right away. Make sure it's a cutting blade disk, not a grinding one. All right, now we're just nip enough the corners. And remember this is a drop points. So once I take off this little piece, then I can cut in that drop point. Few quick safety tips. Watch where you're sparks go so that you don't catch anything on fire. It is possible, but here we go. That's basically the design we made in the last lesson and then we wrote it out onto the piece. Cut it out. Now let me show you how to do the bevels. 5. Prepping the Tang: Now, honestly, I almost forgot to do the gym thing. It's usually for either aesthetic or a little extra grip for where your thumb goes. It is not necessary, but it is kind of cool look. So you can either free, I can either eyeball it, created, whatever you like. Messed that one up again, we will still get the point. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to I usually just eyeball it, but you don't have to do that. So I will say I thought was going to be about there. So I'll put the first one at the one inch and I'll do about an inch worth of jumping. And this is how I'm gonna cut by the way. So now we'll go half-inch and we'll go couple quarters. That one's a little off, but you're getting the point. And now I will mark the depth. And to me for my eyeball, that it's a little too deep. So I won't keep in mind to stop right before it. Now of course, there's plenty of ways you can do this. You can paint it, you can do all kinds of cool stuff to it so that it's extremely precise. But I'm not sure with the extremely precise. I'm showing you the basic idea. Now let's cut it in. Now we've got 1895 blade profile. All we're gonna do now is drilled the paintballs and cut it. We can also, since we're going to have higher battles, drill supplementary holes along the handle in order to lighten the whole blade as a whole, just don't feel too many. So my basic idea is to have my handle here, which means I'm going to want a pinhole here. And let's follow it down the center line. And I'll do one here. Two pins will be just fine. And I'll probably do eyeball a few larger holes to reduce weight. So that's the basic guide. Again, you could easily scribe and make it very precise. If that's the way you want to go, It's up to you. Let's go cut a hole. Okay, so we're just going to do the two pinholes are now use a fresh bit. Don't wear gloves for this application. Gets a bench press, vice or just kinda Hackett the way I'm about to show you. Because if you wear gloves and it gets caught, you know, wrap your finger up, bad stuff. So make sure this is nice and secure point. It is. Get yourself from cutting the oil to go to a hardware store and asked him specifically for cutting oil. You can also if you wanted to punch the holes before in and I'm not going to give myself a basic start. Now it's going to hold it there and it's going to rotate to the post. There's not going to hit the post is going to be held by the post. If you don't have a device like I know I used to know what oil, keep it at home. And as you press, keep applying oil. It's worth of work if it starts smoking. Slow down. Now we're moving on to our next one, which is approximately here. Same thing. See, you started smoking because it's actively evacuating the oil. As you drill. There we go, wipe it off. Now, normally I would consider lightening the handle even more. But perhaps for this video, if you get the point, perhaps I won't because I'm going to be using a thin layer of my Carta for the handle. So it's not going to be overall very heavy. And it's already it's already pretty heavy. But that's because we haven't ground in the bevels yet or cleaned up the jumping. But there we are so far, very simple camp knife. Next video is going to be about grinding and preparing for the heat treat. Bunch of cool stuff coming, hope you like it so far. 6. Midway Motivation: It Won't Be Perfect: Okay, midway motivation, we are on Class 3. Less than six. It will not be perfect. Now this is important to say the reason why I'm including this as not just to talk, but to let you know that no matter what you do, whether this is your first blade or whether you've done a few blades away. Whether you've done many blades, you will never look at it and think, this is perfect. And that's okay. In fact, that's good because what you're doing, training yourself to look at your material and to progress and to improve. However, it must be balanced. For instance, if you look at your material and you think this is amazing, I'm perfect. You're not going to, you're not going to make it as blades meant long-term, you will never progress beyond that. However, if you look at what do you produce new thing, this is terrible. I'm terrible. Then you're not gonna make it a placement because you're going to give up. So you need to be able to develop an artistic eye and a blade, a knife making eye, to see what's good about your work and what's bad about your work? And how do you do that? I would recommend going on to Instagram or TikTok or YouTube or any number of websites and finding a design that you like and trying to replicate. So not only will you learn different design elements, but you'll start to develop the eye to make equality looking blade. There's a lot of times you'll look at someone's very first plate and it will look like a kind of sharp stick, which is technically, I guess what a ninth grade That's a sharp stick metal. But there's much more to it than that. You're developing the ability to see quality. And you're developing the ability to notice flaws, which are all very important. It helps to your progression. So let's say you're grinding in the battles and the bevels line just isn't perfect. And no matter what you do, you can't get a good clean bevel like it's wavy or it's dirty or Temesi or there's a, you're grinding it and you twitch, right? And it puts a mark. And then you're like, oh, I gotta start over nato. Do your very best. Because it takes time to develop the muscle memory. And it takes time to develop the eye and the technique. But don't get down on yourself. Is all part of that, is how you learn to tell you growth is how you develop your craft. That's why knife making is more than just all going to manufacturers and not as it was going to kick them all out. That's not what it's about. What it's about is developing your craftsmanship and learning to put your mind, your eyes to your hands and you're Muslim and everything together to be a craftsman. And that's why you'll see so many of these blades, these high-end blazed costs so much because it's not just you're not to painful the material yachts and paying for the work that was done. You're paying for the experience that is required to make a blade the way they did it. And that affects quality. So the more of a critical eye you have without Lenny and get you down, the better products you'll produce faster. So won't be perfect. And that's not a bad thing. That's a good thing. Don't let it get to the point where you think isn't perfect. Always look for ways to improve, but never let yourself get discouraged. Putting. There have been so many failures in my time as a blade Smith. And that's just exactly how it is. No matter what you do, no matter who you are and how good you are, you will always make mistakes that you give up the building. The only thing that's different between the highly successful in the blades between humanity and those who aren't, is that the highly successful have never given up and they've had time. So midway motivation, it will not be perfect and that's good. You don't want it to be perfect. Because if it's perfect, you're missing something. However, don't let it discourage you so that you'll quit because there's no Hailar is not being developed as a craftsman. So get out there, make knife. Don't want to be perfect because it's never perfect. Nonetheless here, the absolute Supreme Master. And even then it's not gonna be perfect. Let's be honest. Guys. Like, Let's go less than seven, which is, who are the heat tree? I like this one. Let's talk about eatery. 7. Adding the Bevels: Yes. Sorry. Okay. Okay. Okay. 8. Heat Treat: Welcome back everybody. Last time we were covering some of the basics to get us ready for the heat treat. Now let's talk about the heat treat. Now when it is three separate parts, normalizing, quenching and temporary. So first of all, let's handle the normalizing of the steel. Now what that involves is heating up your steel so that you can normalize the grain structure. So when you bring the blade up to foraging temperature, you're helping to bring all of those stress points that may have developed throughout the steel and to relieve them consistently. And that grain structure from the Tang all the way to the tip of the blade is all going to be even out so that when you go for the quench, there's less likelihood for warps and cracks. Another important point is you'll see that I am putting it in Tang first. And that's because the tip of the blade is so thin and it will overheat. So here you see that now that the Tang is sufficiently warm, what I can do is I can flip it around and now that the back half of the blade is already up to temperature, I can now work moving the steel in and out of the forage, get a nice even heat instead of creating hotspots and cool spots. The more you keep moving, the better it is for the steel. Also considering turning your heat down a little bit so that you don't heat it up too quickly. And you have more control to get your blade evenly heated all the way through here, you can barely see it cool spot towards the spine. So now that we've brought it up to temperature, Let's put it in a vice to cool down. Make sure to let it cool to touch and do this normalizing cycle three times. Here it is in time-lapse, honestly because I think it looks cool. Now here I'm taking some scrap metal and I am preheating the oil to about 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Reason you do that is because if there's too drastic of a contrast between the material and the oil, you'll create a vapor barrier. Now here as I am quenching, I pulled it out of the oil a little early to show you what can happen if you're steel isn't cool off and then you'll get a fireball. Looks great on TV, but it's not great for good hardening. To harden it properly, dunk it in at around 1475 Fahrenheit for 10 95 and leave it in there for around 10 seconds agitating and up and down to help even out the cooling process. Otherwise, they'll get hotspots in the oil and it will prevent it from cooling evenly. Now, as it's cooling off, you'll still have a little bit of time after you pull out of the oil to make short straight. So keep a vice nearby and look down the length of the blade to make any needed adjustments while it's still somewhat malleable, but be careful you don't break it. Now let's do a final test to see if it hardened. The file is skating right off and not digging in very much. That's good. Now if we turn it around and do it on the Tang, there, we let it stay a little cool to absorb a little bit of impact, which means it digs right in. We have a hardened blade. Now we've got a timber, this bad boy for 1095 at this thickness, I do 400 degrees Fahrenheit and I'll leave it in there for about an hour and I'll let it cool and I'll do it for another hour or so. All right, now what you have is the Harden tempered blade. There's a little bit dirty as you can see. But what you want is that straw color. In fact, this is a little bit too light. So what I'm gonna do is I'm going to put it back in probably for 425 degrees for about an hour. But what you want is a light straw color so that you know that the blade is tempered and let it soak like that for about an hour once you've reached it. So it's important to make sure that's done. Otherwise, if you don't temper the blade, you will have a very brittle played that is very prone to snapping. So it will not be considered a functional blade until you do so. Now, a few points I want to bring out as well is that there are some parts where you should examine your product and then you should make adjustments like my plunge lines are very dirty here. Admittedly, just because it kinda kinda rushed it. But you see how it's just not clean looking either side. You'll want that to be nice and clean. Now whether improvements can I make my Jinping is a little bit uneven. See that that one's larger. Is that a big deal? No, it's not a big deal at all. But you want to be able to look at your material and what you're making and improve it. Now she's ready for a handle and she's ready to be sharpened. Now what I could do for the handle is just simple pair cord. So you can easily do that, just wrap airport around it. There's plenty of videos on how to do that into sharpen it, because it's just got a flat edge there. I know. You can use a belt sander as well, which would be a very great way in order to get it nice and sharp. But we're going to save sharpening for a whole separate class because there's so many ways to do so. I wanna make sure I have plenty of time in order to cover it. So for now, this is where we are and this is what we've got. What do you think? It's not too bad? And don't worry, if the line isn't clean it with a little wavy. You can still work in that because even after I'm done tempering and I'm going to grind it and clean it up. But we also have a class all on finishes. So they're the basic knife, it'll get the work done. And yeah, that's what we've got so far. Let's go over some more lessons. 9. What's Next: All right guys, So today we are coming outside for this lesson just because it's such a nice, beautiful day out here in Haines, Alaska. So I thought would be good to get a little bit of sunshine. So let's talk about it. Congratulations, because you're almost done with class 3 of how to become a blade Smith. This time, as you know, we tackled how to make a stock removal bleed, which is a high-quality blade if you do it right. So what you should have now is a heat treated. So that means normalized, quenched and tempered blade. It's ready to be sharpened. Once you sharpen it, it will be a fully functional blade. Pretty exciting. And whether you've done some of this before, whether this is the first time that you've done this. It's kind of a big step to be able to get to this point. So good job guys. That was good. Next, we're going to discuss how to make a basic blade, except this time, how to forge a basically. Now that one's exciting because honestly of between stock removal and forging, I personally prefer to forget just because it's what I, I enjoy it more. And I think that there is potential to create a higher-quality product. And it's just way more fun to me, in my opinion. So not knocking on the stock removal process because as we've discussed in this class, it is a good, a good method, but going on into class number for how to forge it. So you're going to need some of the equipment that we talked about in class too. You're going to need a heat source and you're going to need a hammer. You're going to need a type of anvil and you're going to probably need some tongs. So it gives us a pair of tongs as well. And then you will be able to use not only that equipment, but the equipment that you used in class 3, this one. In order to forge out and perfect, I'll get really close. Equality basic night. So I really hope you're looking forward to it because personally, I love it. It's a whole lot of fun. A few points to consider regarding it is keep in mind safety. Keep in mind ventilation, and keep in mind proper clothing. An example is probably going to want to get an apron as well to protect the clothing that you have because there's going to be lots of sparks and there's going to be lots of heat. And depending on exactly what you're doing and how you're doing it. You can not only get to close dirty, but you could also get your clothes. Destroyed, burned too many holes in my clothes and an apron, maybe a canvas apron. Leather apron works really well. In fact, I'd suggest a leather apron because the canvas would get little metal shards and that's no fun. So also safety. I recommend seeing eye protection. They go hearing protection and gloves, or while you're foraging. Generally speaking, you're not going to wear a glove in your hammer hand. My hands are dirty and then work and you're not going to use a glove on your hammer hand, but it will be very useful for having globulin your tongues hand. Because you're going to need to be reaching in towards heat source and everything. Lot to do and there's a lot of fun to be had. So what is next? A full discussion on everything you need to know to forge out a knife. And we're going to include lots of little tips and tricks that I've found for myself. I've learned from other Smith's because not only will these tips and tricks help you do a better job and also help you avoid It's got bit by a mosquito. Mistakes you may not have seen coming. So class for how to forge a knife. Let's get going. But first, the project, alright, mosquitoes are coming up. The project for this class. Let's talk about it. 10. Class Project: Okay, welcome back guys. Class 3, less than 10. Let's talk about the class project. We're still outside and beautiful day. I'm still getting bitten by mosquitoes. So we're going to wrap it up a little bit. Class project for class 3 is show me what you mean. Now in the class too, we had you design a bleed. Now Class 3 we had you cut it out. So I want to see your blade that you designed and you cut out. And that means I want to see the design. I want to see why you design it in a way that you did. Maybe did drop point like we did. Maybe you added jumping, maybe you didn't. Maybe you did a skinner or something. I want to see you what you designed in y. And then I want to compare it. I want you to compare it with the blade that you made because it's very important to develop the ability to work off of a design, whether it's your design or someone else's design. Okay, Now for example, here's the one that we designed. Remember that the little video there where we drew it out. And then of course, you know, and you saw the actual product. It's pretty close. And the reason being is because we've learned and developed away, developed the ability to work off of a design. Now if you're looking to start a business, it's important to be able to do that because then you'll be able to recreate someone's idea. Or if you'd just do enough as a hobby, it's still important because you're learning to purposefully work through the material as opposed to just hammering on something and something comes out. Now It is okay, in my opinion to see what the steel does. You'll hear that a lot in Smith and community want to go and learn when to start cutting it out or I'm going to forge it and we'll just see what the, what the steel does. That's fine. If you have already developed the ability to do it purposely with purpose. So step one, show me your design. Tell me why you designed it that way. That's step 2. Step 3, show me your final product. Now you'll notice too that there's no handle. We haven't sharpened it yet. Like we said, that's coming to don't worry about that. We're going to have a full class on doing that. Because there's enough with handled making and there's enough with sharpening that we need to have a full class on it because there's plenty of ways to do it depends on what you liked, depends on what you have available. Well, you have around. So work on that class project and hopefully we're going to see you in class for how to forward your blade. I hope to see you there guys.