Beginner Watercolor Florals: 5 Easy Flowers Anyone can Paint! | Petals by Priya Watercolor | Skillshare

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Beginner Watercolor Florals: 5 Easy Flowers Anyone can Paint!

teacher avatar Petals by Priya Watercolor, Watercolor Artist & Teacher

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Welcome to Class!


    • 2.

      Class Project


    • 3.

      Art Supplies


    • 4.

      6-Petal Flowers


    • 5.

      6 Petal Flower Variations


    • 6.



    • 7.



    • 8.



    • 9.

      Flower Buds


    • 10.

      Leaves & Greenery


    • 11.

      Project: Floral Composition


    • 12.

      Resources & Final Thoughts


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About This Class

Dive into the wonderful world of loose watercolor florals with this step-by-step watercolor painting course! This class is designed to teach beginner and intermediate watercolor artists the easiest methods for painting 5 types of loose style flowers, greenery, and basic floral compositions.

Each lesson in this class will include simple, real-time instructions, so you’ll be able to follow along easily and add new florals to your painting toolkit in no time. 

In this class, you will learn how to paint:

  • A variety of 6-petal flowers
  • Roses
  • Daisies
  • Lavender
  • Flower Buds
  • Leaves & Greenery
  • Floral composition tips
  • ….and more!

While this class teaches 5 specific types of flowers, the techniques and experience you’ll gain from it can be applied to anything you decide to paint in the future; so even if you’re not a floral-fanatic like I am, you’ll still walk away from the class with valuable watercolor skills and growth.

A lot of people get intimidated by painting florals, but once you learn to let go of perfection and just let the magic of watercolor take the lead, you’ll be surprised how easy and joyful the process can be. 

Gather your supplies and get ready for a  fun-filled crash course in loose watercolor florals! 

About the Artist

Hello and welcome! My name is Priya and I’m the owner of Petals by Priya Watercolor Designs. I’m an artist, art teacher, and paper goods shop owner based in beautiful Honolulu, Hawaii. I’m passionate about teaching art in an approachable manner and helping artists at any level feel excited and empowered to create beautiful artwork that embraces their own unique style.

One of my absolute favorite parts about being an artist is connecting with other creatives and sharing our love for art, creativity, and entrepreneurship. Let’s connect!

Next Steps

Please don’t forget to upload your projects to the “Projects & Resources” section here on Skillshare. It’s a great way to receive feedback on your artwork and connect with fellow students and creatives. If you also share your project on social media, please tag me on Instagram so I can like and comment on your work and share it with my audience! 

Thanks again for joining this class. I can’t wait to see what you create! Have a question? Feel free to send me an email or DM me on Instagram!

Meet Your Teacher

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Petals by Priya Watercolor

Watercolor Artist & Teacher

Top Teacher

My name is Priya Hazari and I'm a watercolor artist and owner of Petals by Priya Watercolor Designs. I specialize in painting loose watercolor florals and botanicals and am deeply inspired by the vibrant colors and beautiful nature surrounding me in Honolulu, Hawaii!

My journey with watercolors started as a hobby in 2018 and is now my full-time career. Over the years, I've had the pleasure of teaching in-depth painting and creative business classes to 5,000 students online and in person. I've also been able to see my designs come to life on products through licensing projects, and have transformed my artwork into prints and stationery items that are sold in retail stores around the United States. It's been a dream come true!

Though there are many aspects to my crea... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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1. Welcome to Class!: [MUSIC] Hello, floral friends. Thank you so much for joining me in this class today, where you'll learn how to paint five beginner loose-style watercolor florals. Now, trust me when I say, anyone can paint these flowers. As long as you have some paint, paper, and a few brushes, you can do this. My name is Priya from Petals by Priya Watercolor Designs, and I'm an artist based in Honolulu, Hawaii. Loose florals were the very first things that I learned how to paint when I started my journey with watercolors in 2018. Now as a full-time artist, I create unique tropical and floral designs for products that are sold in my online shop and in retail stores around the US. Since taking my creative business full-time a few years ago, I've been able to teach thousands of students the ends and outs of watercolor and share my love of florals to artists around the world. What started as an evening hobby for me is now my career and one of the biggest joys in my life. It all started when I decided to take a beginner watercolor class. Whether your goal is to be a professional artist one day or you simply want to learn how to paint florals to relax and unwind after a long day, you're in the right place. Each lesson in this class will include simple step-by-step instructions, so you'll be able to follow along easily and add new florals to your painting tool belt in no time. The lessons will start with a thorough supply list, including my tips for finding materials that will work well for you no matter what stage you're in, from beginner to advanced. We'll then learn to paint five types of flowers in the loose style, including six-petaled flowers, roses, daisies, lavender, and flower buds. I also included a short lesson on painting watercolor leaves, so you can add some beautiful greenery to your flower arrangements. This class is perfect for a beginner or intermediate artists who want to dip their toes into the world of loose florals, start building up their muscle memory , and most importantly, gain confidence in their watercolor skills one one at a time. Well, this class teaches five specific types of flowers. The techniques and experience you'll gain from it can be applied to anything you decide to paint in the future. Even if you're not a floral fanatic like I am, you will still walk away from this class with valuable watercolor skills and growth. For the class project, you'll be painting a beautiful floral composition using the skills and techniques you'll learn in the class. The flower and color choices will be up to you, and I'll give you some tips and tricks for creating floral compositions so you end up with a piece you love. A lot of people get intimidated by painting loose florals, but once you learn to let go of control and just let the magic of watercolor take the lead, you'll be surprised just how easy and joyful the process can be. Gather your supplies and get ready for a fun-filled crash course in loose watercolor florals. Before we get started, if you'd like to learn more, you can find me on Instagram, on my website,, or on YouTube @PetalsbyPriyaWatercolor. I also have more beginner resources and freebies on my website, including my personal watercolor supply guide and color mixing guide that I linked down below in the class description. Once you're ready to start painting, let's get to it. I'll see you in the first lesson. [MUSIC] 2. Class Project: Today's class project will be a simple and easy floral composition where you can put your new watercolor skills to use. My main goal in this class is to inspire confidence in yourself and your watercolor practice. For our final project, I want you to feel free to use your own color palette and choose one or a few of your favorite florals from class to create a piece that feels uniquely you. I'll give you a few tips and examples to help get you started, but the rest will be up to you and your artistic intuition. Next step, we will talk about all the supplies you'll need for class. 3. Art Supplies: Let's talk supplies. In this video, I'll walk you through the supplies you need for class, and for your convenience, I also included a supply list with links in the resources section, so you can download that as well. First and foremost, you'll need watercolor paper. There are tons of different types and brands of paper out there. For beginners, I'd recommend either Canson XL or Fabriano 25% cotton paper, as those are more budget-friendly options and they're pretty easy to find at most craft stores or online. For higher-end paper, I personally like to use either Legion Stonehenge or Arches 100% cotton cold press paper. These brands are more expensive but they perform much better for layering, blending, lifting, and other more advanced watercolor techniques. But as this is a beginner-friendly class, I want you to feel free to use whichever watercolor paper you have available to you. For paint brushes, you can use any round brushes you're comfortable working with. I recommend round brushes for this class because they typically have a fine tip at the end for creating pointy leaves and details, but they also have a nice round belly for absorbing water and layering down those loose fluffy petals. My go-to brushes for loose-style painting are the Neptune round brushes sizes two through eight. But again, any brand of round brush will work just great for this class. For your watercolor paints really, any brand or type of paint will work just fine. Some of my favorites include Art Philosophy watercolor confection palettes, Winsor and Newton, and Daniel Smith. For beginners, I'd recommend starting with either the Art Philosophy palettes or the Winsor and Newton Cotman tubes of those are more affordable but still provide vibrant pigments and great quality. If you're looking for a professional grade paint, I like to use either Winsor and Newton professional tubes or Daniel Smith. As for the colors, I want you to feel free to choose any colors you like for this class, my priority is teaching you the techniques and the brush strokes to create beautiful blooms. Of course, in the real world the plants and flowers come in all different colors and shades. So don't stress too much about choosing the perfect colors or color combinations. Other supplies we'll need for the class include a jar or bowl of clean water, a mixing palette, and a paper towel for dabbing excess water off your brush. Once you've gathered your supplies, I'll see you in the next video to start painting flowers. 4. 6-Petal Flowers: We're starting with the basics, six petaled flower. I call it a six petaled flower because that's how many petals I usually end up with, but it doesn't have to be six, so I don't want you to worry about getting that exact amount of petals. I like to start with this type of flower because it uses the simplest technique and there's nowhere you can really go wrong with this method. Even if you've never picked up a paintbrush before, I bet you'll surprise yourself with just how beautiful your flower looks in the end. Here's an example of what this flower will generally look like. We have a dark, pigmented center, and loose style petals around it. For this lesson, I'm going to use a deep maroon color that I mixed using a combination of dark purple and a medium brown to tone down the vibrancy. Before we start, let's take a quick look at the three main steps to painting this flower. Number 1, we'll tap down dark, pigmented dots to create the center of the flower. Number 2, we'll use a clean, wet brush to drag out each of the petals using the pigment from the center. Number 3, we'll go back in and tap in darker pigment into the center to create this beautiful bleeds and blooms that are my favorite part of using watercolor. Let's start by loading up your brush with a very pigmented, concentrated mixture of whatever color you're using. I'm using a size 8 round brush here. We're going to start by using the very tip of your brush and make sure you have lots of pigment and lots of water in your brush. because, again, that's where we're going to be using all the color from the center of the flower to use into each of the petals. You really want to make sure it's loaded up nice and full. We're just going to gently tap down some dots to create the center of that flower. They don't have to be perfectly uniform, but just make sure there's plenty of water and plenty of pigment. Now that those are down on the paper, I'm rinsing off my brush. I'm getting rid of almost all the pigment on there, dabbing some of that excess water out onto my paper towel. Then we'll be painting the petals by using the tip of the brush to gently drag out some of that color just like that. Then you'll just lay your brush down on the page just like that. You're simply just applying pressure down on the page to create the petal. I usually do this two times just like that. Again, I'm rinsing off my brush, making sure I have plenty of water in there, pulling out some of that pigment from the center, and then just applying pressure so that the belly of the brush lays down, and creates that nice, thick petal. I'm working quickly here because I want to make sure that the center doesn't dry up. Using the tip to drag out the color and then laying my brush down just like that. I'm going to continue doing this all the way around the flower. [MUSIC] One thing I want you to keep in mind here is your petals don't have to be perfectly uniform. You want to generally keep the size relatively the same, but they don't have to be symmetrical. You can have some be a little thinner, you can have some with less pigment. It's really up to you. While these are still wet, this is why we have to work fairly quickly. The center is still wet unless the petals are still wet. I'm going to load up my brush with that dark, pigmented color that we started with. I'm just going to gently tap that in again in the center and you can see that color just bloom into the petals just like that. I don't have to ton in my brush because I don't want it to overtake the whole petal. I just want it to gently bleed out into it by just gently tapping it in. There you have it. Let's start to really build up that muscle memory with this technique and let's paint another flower just next to the one that we just did. Starting with a very pigmented mixture of your color, plenty of water, using the tip of your brush just to place down some dots, and create the center. Again, these don't have to be perfect. They can be different sizes. Just make sure there's plenty of pigment and plenty of water. Now I'm rinsing off my brush, making sure almost all that pigment is off of it, gently dabbing it on my paper towel just so there's no water falling off of it. I still want my brush to be pretty wet, but I don't want it to be dripping because then it just gets out of control. Using the very tip of my brush, drawing out some of that color from the center, and then laying my brush down, applying pressure to create the petal, and doing this twice. I'm rinsing off my brush in-between each one because your brush picks up that pigment when you draw it from the center. I like the really light floating vibe of those petals, so I want to make sure it's nice and transparent. Grabbing color from the middle and dragging it out just like that. Again, rinsing off my brush, using the tip, pulling out some of that color, and laying it down. I can see that some of this has dried up from the center, and I still want to be able to pull out plenty of pigment from there, so I'm just going to tap in some more. If you're dealing with that issue and it's drying up before you have the chance to paint your petal, just add a few more, and you'll be good to go. Again, rinsing off my brush, tapping off any excess water on my paper towel, and repeating. If you start to get bleed like that, I personally liked that look. It's a nice characteristic of loose style painting, but if that bothers you, you can just rinse off your brush, make sure all the excess water is off, and then just let your bristles soak up some of that excess. It just cleans it up a bit. It's one of my favorite parts of watercolor because it's very forgiving. Pulling some of that color out, applying pressure down onto my brush, and creating those petals. Now that that's still wet, I'm just going to load up some more pigments and gently tap it in in the middle, so I can see them bleed out into the petals. You don't have to do that step if you don't want it to be the super loose blooms and bleeds, but I personally like the look of it. 5. 6 Petal Flower Variations: This technique is really my secret weapon because you can create so many different variations of flowers by simply changing how you paint your petals. So this one technique can give you hundreds of different flowers that you can use all across your watercolor paintings. And I'll show you an example of what I'm talking about here. So here we just created a nice big, fluffy petals. But if you make one small, simple change, you can entirely change the look of the flower. So we'll be using the same technique, but instead of creating these large fluffy petals, I'm going to create more petals that make them thinner and longer. But we'll use the same basic technique. So I'm loading up on dark pigment, tapping in those dots. And because I'm painting smaller, thinner petals on this one, I've moved down to a size six round brush. And what if the center down, I'm rinsing off that pigment, dabbing off some of that excess water. And then I'll start painting petals. But this time I'm just going to make really thin, longer petals like that. So I'm applying a little bit less pressure than I did and the last one. And just dragging it out like that. They're dragging out the color from the center, laying down my brush and pulling it out. So I'm going to go ahead and work my way around the flower, doing the same exact technique all the way around. [MUSIC] Alright, and so just by making that little change, I mean all the petals thinner and longer. It looks quite a bit different than these initial ones we painted, but it used the same exact technique. Another example of a variation you can create with the same technique is just creating a whole new look by rounding out the tips of your flower petals instead of having these pointy petals. So I'll go more into that when we get to the daisy lesson because we'll be using rounded petals for our daisies. And one final way that I want to show you how to use this technique, but to create a whole different flower is by using a few different colors. So I use just one color just to simplify the initial example. But this time I'm going to add in some dark warm yellow into the center of the flower. So I'm starting by tapping in some yellow dots, keeping it nice and small. And then I'm going to go in with my dark purple, maroon color and add in those dots around it. And you can see some of that blending and bleeding of colors there. That's totally fine. Again, we're going for the loose style here, so a little bit of fleeting, it is perfectly fine. So I'm adding in that outer circle, rinsing off the pigment. I'm going to switch back to my size eight brush for the pedals. And doing the same technique. But in those nice transparent petals, I'm going to drop in some of that yellow that we used in the center. I'm loading up some of that yellow and just gently tapping it into the petals like that, which gives it just a nice to tone effect. So I'm going to continue working my way around creating this petals, making sure I have the deep maroon color that I want to be the focus, but then also just tapping in some of that yellow. And I'm going to continue working my way around [MUSIC]. And there we have it. So these are just small and simple changes that I made, but every flower looks completely different and that is why I just love this technique. So it'll be for moving onto the next lesson. I really encourage you to keep experimenting with this technique. Try using a bunch of different colors and seeing all the different variations of flowers you can create just by making small and simple changes. And when you're ready, move on to loose watercolor roses in the next lesson. 6. Roses: Time to get started on our roses. Before we jump in, I want to quickly mention that I have a whole other in-depth class that is all about painting watercolor roses. You'll learn effect and easy technique in this lesson, but if you want to dive deeper into more detailed roses, you can check that class out next. Now let's get started. There are a few basics of roses to cover first. Number 1, your petals will always start smaller in the center and expand bigger as you work your way outwards. Number 2, your center petal should always be darker and then get lighter on the outer petals. Now for this lesson, I'm going to be using this nice burnt orangy red color from my Art Philosophy Watercolor Confections palette. But again, feel free to use any color of your choice. I'm using a size 5 round brush here and I'm loading up a pretty concentrated pigment of that color that I just showed. I'm not using a ton of water on my brush here, I'm mostly just using pigment here. I'm using just the very tip of my brush to make tiny little C strokes. Just the very tip of my brush and just gently laying that down in the shape of a C, and these will make up the very center of the rose. I usually start with about 5-7 of these C strokes just like that and then I'm going to start adding more water onto my brush. I'm rinsing off some of that pigment and just letting my bristles. I've got some more of that water and then I'm going to be making that same stroke, but just applying more pressure down on my brush to create thicker petals. You're always working from thinner petals in the center of the rose and growing thicker as you work your way out. Just laying down my brush in the shape of a C with a pretty watered down mixture here. One thing to keep in mind is to leave a little bit of white space, otherwise, your rose will just turn into a blob of color. Now I'm going to move to a size 6 brush, just slightly larger so I can get those nice big fluffy petals with the very outer part. You can actually barely see these outer petals, which is just how I want it. I want it to be really light. I'm just working my way around the outside, applying pressure in the shape of a C until you're happy with how it looks. Now I'm going to take my size 5 brush again and I'm loading up a little bit more of a darker value. These petals are still wet, so I'm going to just gently tap some on the inside of those petals and you'll see the color bleed out, and that gives it a really nice soft floating effect. Just gently tapping it in and you can see that pigment really expand out into the petals. This is just giving a nice second layer to help to find those petals a little bit more. That first layer was just about getting those initial petals down, and then second layer is just adding a bit of definition. Too much liquid on my brush there, so I'm just going to dry it off and let the bristles soak up some of that excess. I'm not adding too much extra detail on the outer petals because I want to keep those nice and light, but again, make sure to maintain some of that white space or the rest will just turn into a blob of color, which we definitely don't want to happen. Just finishing up some final details here and then we can go through this process again. Now it takes a little bit of practice to get the hang of it. Adding in a couple little details here. I'm pretty happy with how that looks, so let's go ahead and practice one more time. Starting with my size 5 round brush, I'm getting a very pigmented color on there; barely any water because they're in the center of the rose is really defined. There's not bleeding and blooming going on, you want to maintain the integrity of those little C strokes. Let's do another one right here using just the very tip of my brush for the direct pigment and just gently adding in some little strokes in the shape of a C. Again, I typically make between 5-7 of these strokes for the center of the rose, and these are the only ones that I really care about being very defined. I always think the center of the rose is the most important, whereas the outer petals can be loose and messy and it looks beautiful. Now I've rinsed off some of that pigment, I have more water loaded up in my brush. Then I'm applying those same C strokes, but just putting more pressure down on the brush. It's still the shape of the C, but I'm just allowing my brush to press down on the paper like that to create a more loose-bloomed petal. You're just working your way around in that circle, making sure to maintain that white space in between. The white space is really important, especially when you're first learning how to do roses, because that I feel is the most frustrating thing when I was first learning roses, I didn't leave enough white space and then my whole thing just turned into a blob of color and I would get very frustrated. I would error on the side of leaving too much white space than not enough because you can always go back in and add more details, but you can't always take away color. Again, those outer petals can be really light, barely there. Then once that first layer is done, I'm getting more of that dark pigment and these petals are still barely wet. I'm just going to use the tip of my brush, tap in some of that pigment and then you can see it bloom out into the rest of the petal. That's my favorite part of doing these bruises; so relaxing and fun to watch. You just have to be okay with letting go of control, especially when you're painting in loose style. Watercolor is going to do what watercolor is going to do, and if you try to control it too much and you lose that nice loose affect. Water control is still important but fun once you have a handle on that. Let it do its thing for the rest of it. Again, I'm not adding too much pigment here or too much detail around the outer petals because I want those to stay nice and light and loose. I'm just adding a little bit more definition. This just really takes practice. I've been painting roses for several years now. I'll get too discouraged if yours don't turn out right. Add just a few more details in there , then we'll be done. I like using colors like this too because it allows you to have a really deep pigmented center, but then have a stark contrast between these really light peachy petals. If you're starting out with a really light color on its own, it can be a little tricky to I have that contrast. If you have one that can get nice and dark and deep like this, then you can water it down to get a nice light effect on the outside; it really achieves a nice contrasted look. Just to experiment with different colors as you go. I'm just filling in some gaps here. Not enough definitions, keeping the color nice and light here on the outside. I'm just brushing out some of those outer petals. There you have it, that's a basic loose style rose. Feel free to just wet your brush, dance on the page. Don't try to control your strokes too much, and these will really start to come together once we get into the leaf lesson in this class. Once you add those nice deep leaves into the outer petals, it really looks lovely. Feel free to keep practicing your roses, try not to get too frustrated. I know this can definitely be one of the more frustrating flowers to learn when you're first starting out, but remember to keep that white space, remember to go from dark to light, and just keep practicing. 7. Lavender: Now it's time for the lavender, which is one of my favorite flowers to paint. The technique we'll be using is super simple and easy. These are great for adding filler flowers to larger floral bouquets or compositions, but they're also really beautiful on their own. Before we get started, let's review the three main steps to painting this loose style of lavender. Everyone will use a very light value of purple to lay down the petals. Number 2, all those are still wet, we'll gently tap in a bit of darker purple value at the bottom of each petal. Number 3, we'll use the very tip of our round brush to paint in the stem and a couple of leaves coming out of it. Just a quick note here on the color, of course, you can use any shade of purple you like, but if you want to achieve a more smoky lavender like the one I'm using in this video, try mixing in a touch of dark blue or black. That helps tone down the vibrancy of the purple and gives it a really nice natural shade. We're going to start by loading up a really light value of lavender. I'm using a size 4 round brush here, and what we're going to do is we're just going to start laying down our brush to create the lavender petals. We're not going to be dragging it out or painting in big petals like we did earlier on in this class, we're just going to tap down our brush to create that little tiny lavender petal. One more note here before we start, we want the tip of our brush to be painting in towards the stem. Right now the stem is invisible, but you can imagine where it's going to be, and you just always want to make sure that when you're tapping down your brush, the tip is always facing where that stem would be. Again, I have a very light value of this lavender color. I'm just going to start tapping in those petals, you can see here I'm just gently tapping down my brush just like that. We're going to work our way down where the stem would be, leaving a little bit of white space. You don't want to have a bunch of petals jammed in there, and just tap all the way down. We're going to want to work fairly quickly here, because when we tap in the darker shade of purple here in a minute, we want this to still be wet. You can see tip of my brush is always facing where that stem will be. That's looking pretty good. Now I'm loading up my brush with a darker value and I'm just going to gently tap in that darker shade, just at the very base of the petals. You can see it starts to bloom and bleed out into those petals. That's exactly what you want to see. Just gives it a nice contrast. That is looking pretty good. Now I'm going to move to a size 0 brush. If you don't have a brush that's small, that's totally fine, you can just use the very tip of your round brush that you were just using. I'm loading up a dark green shade onto my rash and the green that I always like to use is a mixture of sap green, indigo, and Payne's gray. We're just going to use the very tip to draw in that stem. I'm working my way up through the middle of these petals, just like that. Then I'm adding a few, going off to the side to just connect some of those petals that are a little further out. Since these are still wet, you'll see the green just gently bleed into the purple. Which I like, it's one of the key characteristics of loose style painting. But if you'd rather prevent the bleeding, then just make sure your purple areas are dry before you add in the stem. That's looking great. Now I'm going to use that same green color and just add in some leaves coming out. I will be going more in depth into leaves in a couple of lessons, but for now I'm just going to lay down my brush, just like that, and just add in a couple of dainty leaves down at the bottom, and then I'll probably do one or two coming out of the lavender. I'm happy with how this one looks, it does take a little bit of practice and a little bit of water control to not let those bleeds get a little out of control. But let's practice it again to start building in that muscle memory. This time I'm going to make my lavender stem with a little bit more of S-curve. Let's do this again, I'm going to start by loading up a very light value of my purple color and then first start tapping in those petals just like we did on this one. Just gently tapping them in, making sure to leave white space in-between them. You don't want every single space to be filled up with a petal. You want to have some white space and also room for the stem and the leaves. This is again why I really like round brushes because it just creates the petal for you. You don't have to really draw anything out, you just apply some pressure, and there's a nice petal there. Some got to be a little bit taller too. Now once that layer is good to go, I'm just gathering a darker value of that lavender and tapping it into the bottom of those petals. That's really my favorite part, it is watching the colors bleed and bloom, I'm just gently tapping this in. If you find that your dark purple is overtaking the entire petal, then try working with a little bit less water. You want to have just enough water to let it bleed and bloom, but not too much to where it just fills in that whole petal. Now that that's looking good, we can start with our stem and the leaves. I'm going to stick with my size 4 brush here because this one's a little bit bigger than the last one, but again, I'm just using the very tip of my brush loaded up with my green and I'm just going to paint in that stem. I always start by going straight up through the middle of the petals, and then once I reach to the top, I start branching out just slightly to connect those outer petals. Again, if the bleeding of colors makes you uncomfortable then you can just wait until that purple is dry before you go adding these in. But I personally love it. Now, just like we did on the last one month, the stem is good to go, I'm just going to apply some pressure down there with my brush to create a couple of leaves. As I mentioned, we'll go more in-depth into leaves. Towards the end of class, so if you're struggling, don't worry. 8. Daisies: Moving on to daisies, the process for painting the daisy petals will be very similar to the six-petal flowers we painted earlier in class. But we're going to be painting rounded petals instead of the pointy ones. Before we start, let's take a quick look at the four main steps we'll be completing. Number 1, we'll paint the base layer of the center of the daisy. Number 2, while that base layer is still wet, we'll add depth and dimension to the center by tapping in some darker values at the bottom. Number 3, we'll use a very light gray to paint the daisy petals, making sure to round out the edges to get them a softer look. Number 4, we'll tap in a slightly darker gray value and add a few wispy lines to give some shadows and texture to the petals. I'm going to start by loading up my brush with a really light value of yellow. I'm using a warm yellow almost with orangey undertones, and I'm using a pretty watered down mixture. That's very light. I'm just going to paint the center of the daisy. You can see it's very light because I wanted to tap in some darker yellow shadows. I always like to start wider because you can always add in more color. This first layer is still wet and I'm going to go back in with a darker value of that same yellow and just tap in some of that down here at the bottom. You can see it's starting to expand out into the circle, with just gently tapping them in. Then I'm going to grab a little bit of brown just to make it even darker. I'm going to be careful not to overtake the yellow. I still want to maintain the yellow, but I'm just going to lightly tap in some brown here at the bottom. Then grab a little bit more. That just helps give the illusion of some depth here on the daisy. It makes it just look a little bit more 3D. That's looking good. I'm going to use the same brush. It is a size 6 round brush. I'm going to load up a very light gray. I have a pre-mixed light gray from one of my art philosophy pallets. But if you don't have a light gray already mixed, you can just use either black or Payne's gray and just make sure to water it down a lot because we don't want our petals to be too dark. I'm just going to load up some of that gray. I'll use the same method I did for the six-petal flowers. Starting with the tip of my brush, applying down some pressure. But instead of coming to a point, I'm going to curve my brush. It's a little bit more rounded, and I'll do my second stroke here, and do the same thing. You can see these daisy petals are nice and round. I'm going to work my way around starting with the tip, applying some pressure and making sure to round it off at the end, starting with the tip. Again it's okay if you pull some of this yellow or brown from the center. If all just adds about this style. I'm just going to repeat this process all the way around. [MUSIC] Now all of my petals are drawn, but I've lost a little bit of that definition in the center. I'm just going to go back in and add a little bit more of that yellow down at the bottom. It's dried out quite a bit, so I want to make sure it's still wet enough. I've got color blend a bit. I'm just tapping in some of that darker, warm yellow. Just like that, and then dropping a little bit more of this brown just to barely tap in down here at the bottom. Again, it's okay if some of that bleeds into the petals. It's looking great so far. The last step is going to be adding some wispy lines and a little bit of shadow to the petals. But for this part I want to make sure that the petals are completely dry, so I'm just going to give it a couple of minutes to dry out. Now for this last step, these petals are dry now and I'm just going to go in and add some of those lines to the petals to just give it a little bit more texture. For this, I'm going to be using a liner brush, which just means it's super fine and comes to a very sharp point, which is perfect for adding these tiny little details. But no worries if you don't have this brush. I just got this recently. So up until I have those, I just used the very tip of a round brush. Just like this. So these are the brushes I've been using throughout class, but they come to a nice fine point, especially when they're wet. It will achieve the same effect. This is just taking a shortcut. I'm going to load up this same color of gray that I use for the petals, but just a little less watered down, a little more concentrated. I'm just going to barely add these little wispy lines to the petals. Just like that, so you can barely see it. But it adds a bit of that realistic effect. You don't have to do this part if you're happy with how it looks, just very loose style, that's totally fine too. I'm just going to work my way around adding lines to each of these petals. A little bit too much on it, but it's okay. You can just wipe some of that excess off on your paper to off and continue on. [MUSIC] That is looking really great. I'm happy with how it turned out. Again, let's do it one more time just to really build in that muscle memory and nail this process down. I'm starting with me yellow base and just painting in that center. Making it a little more of an oval shape than just a plain circle. While it's still wet, I'm taking a darker value of that warm yellow and just tapping in some shadows there down at the bottom. Not worrying about blending it too much, I'm just letting it bleed out into that base layer, just like that, and then adding my brown. When I add my brown, I'm not adding too much water because I don't want it to overtake the whole base layer. I just want it to be really subtle. I'm using mostly pen here and just tapping in some dots here down at the bottom. It is still bleeding a bit into the center, which is fine. You just don't want it to bleed too much. They still want to maintain that yellow. I'm going to soften those edges just a bit by taking a clean damp brush, just blending a tiny bit. Now I can start adding the petals. Again, I'm using my size 5 brush, using a very light gray mixture. Starting with the tip of my brush, I'm just laying down a light gray petal, making sure to keep the tips rounded. I want to make that one just slightly darker. I'm repeating that process, starting with the tip of my brush, laying it down on the page, dragging it out and creating a rounded tip. Again, if you don't have a pre-mixed light gray and you can always just use a really watered down renin of either Payne's gray or black, or even a really washed down yellow would work too. I'll just repeat this process all the way around the daisy. [MUSIC] Then of course, the final step is adding those detailed lines. But you have to wait until the petals are dry before you add that. Because if they are still wet and you start adding in lines, they're just going to expand throughout the petal. But for this part you have really thin defined lines. Just give it a couple of minutes to dry. Once they're all dry, you'll take the very tip of your brush or a script liner if you have one, get a slightly darker value of the gray and just start adding in your very thin lines on the petals. Just a nice finishing touch to give it a little bit more of a realistic look. I'm keeping them very nice and thin. There we have it, too beautiful daisies. As I always say, muscle memory is extremely important in improving your watercolor skills, so I encourage you to practice a few more before we move on to the next video. 9. Flower Buds: Finally, we'll paint some flower buds. These may not seem like an important type of flower to know how to paint, but trust me, they always come in handy when you're painting compositions and bouquets. I'm going to be using the same burnt orange that I used in the last lesson. One thing I want you to keep in mind in this lesson is you definitely don't have to paint the exact same amount of flower buds or use the same colors I do in the demonstration. The main point of learning this technique is to be able to use these as fillers to help complete a larger composition or bouquet. You can easily tailor your flower buds and stems to fit your compositional needs. Now let's take a look at the steps to painting a stem with multiple flower buds, which actually is a very similar process to how we painted the lavender earlier in class. Number one, I will paint a few base buds, making sure to keep them nice and round. Number two, we'll tap in that darker value at the bottom of each bud. Number three, while it's still wet, we'll paint in the stem and a few wispy leaves. I'm going to be using a size four round brush here, and I'm just loading up a very light value of that burnt orange. I'm just going to start by placing my brush down on the page and creating a nice round button shape. Just like that. I'm probably just going to add maybe four or five of these. Like I said, very similar to how we did the lavender, but instead of just tapping our brush down to create the petals, we're actually applying some pressure down here and using a few strokes to create each of these buds. Remember, you don't have to paint the exact same amounts of buds that I'm doing. Feel free to make yours as big or as small as you want. I'm going to start with that and while it's still wet I'm going to load up a darker value. The same burnt orange color but just a little more concentrated, less watered down. I'm still using my size four brush. Just like we did with the lavender, I'm just tapping in some of that color right at the bottom of each of those buds. All of these lessons are really good exercises for improving your water control. If you have too much of that dark value on your brush, then it's just going to overtake the whole bud. But you still want that base layer to have enough water that it has these bleeds and blurs. But you don't want it to be pulling up on your page. I'm going to be switching to a size two brush and I'm just going to load up some green. These are still wet, which is exactly how I want them to be. I'll use the tip of my brush to draw in the stem just like that. Then attach the buds. You'll see a little bit of that green blend into the flower bud. Again, if you don't want that blending, then just make sure your buds are dry before you do this part. I personally love this look. Now I'm going to add just a few little wispy lines here just by applying some pressure down on the brush and lifting back up. In the next lesson, I'll be going over a few more methods to painting leaves. If the first part is hard for you, don't worry. Seizing the tip applying some pressure and lifting back up. There you have it. Flips, do this again. This time I'm just going to do two little buds. That's what I really love about learning this technique. Once you know how to do it, you can really create so many different variations. If you're in the middle of a floral painting and you just see a spot that has a little too much whitespace or it feels a little empty, you can add a couple of these and it really helps make it look more fluff. I'm just going to do two this time. Starting with a light value and then switch back to my size four brush. I'm going to create another flower bud right there and one just slightly below it. That's a little bit smaller. Again, another note about water control. You just want when you're going back in the top in a darker value like we're doing with this and like we did with the lavender. You this first layer to have a nice sheen of moisture so that that color can bleed and expand out. But you don't want it to be pooling up on your page because then it's going to just create some really harsh drying lines. If you have too much water and that is pooling up, then just clean off your brush, dry it off and let your bristles soak up some of that excess. But right now it's just a thin layer of water so that I can easily tap in that darker value and it just gently bleeds. These are really great exercises in water control, which you can really use in any aspect of watercolor painting, not just flowers. It's a really handy technique to get the hang of. I'm going to do one more on a little bit more of that color in there. I'm just gently tapping that in. Now I'll switch to my size two brush again, load up some of that green. Just using the very tip and painting in that stem, the green bleeds into the base of the bud. There you go. You can leave it like that if you're just filling in part of a bouquet or a different painting, or like I did at the last one. You can add a few leaves coming off of it. That looks really beautiful on its own too. Now think I'll leave it at that. I really encourage you to keep practicing this technique and try modifying the amounts and the size of the buds on your stem. Once you're done practicing, meet me in the next lesson to learn a few of my favorite ways to paint loose style leaves and greenery. 10. Leaves & Greenery: Now that we know how to paint a bunch of different flowers, I'll show you a couple of easy ways to paint watercolor leaves, so you can add some beautiful greenery to your floral paintings. For this lesson, I'm going to use my favorite deep green mixture, which is a combination of sap green, Payne's gray, and a little touch of indigo and I'll be using a size 6 round brush. I know we painted a few leaves in some of the lessons, but this will just dive a little deeper and explain the process for creating these leaves. Again, I'm using a size 6 brush. The way I like to explain just a basic leaf using watercolor, is starting with the tip, applying just a little bit of pressure and then applying more pressure so the belly of your brush spreads out and then lift back up. It's really a cadence of light pressure, heavy pressure, and light pressure and that creates a really beautiful basic leaf shape. There's lots of variations you can do with that as well. If you want a longer skinnier leaf, like a leaf that you'd find on a palm branch, then you just apply less pressure and drag it out for longer. I'm starting light applying just a little bit of pressure and lifting back up. Or if you want a thicker, a rounder leaf, like if you are painting eucalyptus, then you'd not drag it out for as long and you'd really apply a lot of pressure down. You start light, push your whole brush down and lift back up so that light pressure, heavy pressure, light pressure really can be modified in a lot of different ways to create a ton of different leaf variations. This also plays into the muscle memory that I've been talking about. It's really nice to maybe warm up before you start painting by just doing light pressure, heavy pressure, light, light, heavy, light, light, heavy, light. It may feel repetitive and it is repetitive, but it really helps build your confidence and your muscle memory and just helps you get more familiar with how your brush works. Now another technique that I use very frequently, and this is actually very similar to how we painted the leaves in the first lesson of this class and I call this a two stroke leaf. I'm starting off the same way. Light pressure, heavy pressure, light but I'm doing that same thing again right next to it, but I'm going to leave just a tiny bit of white space in between there. Starting right here, light pressure, heavy pressure, and light and that creates a really beautiful leaf that I tend to do coming off of flowers like this. Sure, let's do that again. Light pressure, heavy pressure, light, lift up and then that same thing just leaving a tiny little white space there and connecting again at the top. The last very common method that I use when I'm painting, especially in the loose style. I just call this an organic wispy leaf shape, so very official name for it. [LAUGHTER] But for this method I just let my brush do its thing. I'm still going to do light pressure, heavy pressure, light, but I just give my rest a little bit of movement and that helps create these really nice wispy organic leaves. Starting off light, applying some pressure, squiggling my brush and coming back. Light pressure, heavy, getting in a bit of a curve and lifting back up. It's the same essential cadence as this, light pressure, heavy pressure light, you're probably sick of hearing that by now, but that's really the easiest way to paint leaves, the same technique that I'm just being a little more and loosen freestyle with it. Light, heavy, light. You can even do the two stroke method with this too. Light, heavy, light. It just looks a little bit more loose and expressive than a standard one like this, so both are great and it helps add some dynamic interests to your paintings as well. Those are a lot of the very basic techniques I use to add leaves to my floral arrangements or even if I'm just painting one flower at a time. But I wanted to throw in a little bonus lesson here. I just recently got a size 4 script brush. This is still the Princeton Neptune brushes that I've been using throughout class. But the script brush is a lot longer and it has a finer tip than the round brushes. I've really been enjoying using this brush to paint those organic wispy leaf shapes that I just showed, so let me show you how that works. I've got that color loaded up onto my script brush. I'm just going to do the same light, heavy, light. You can see it really creates these beautiful thin, long leaves really easily. We're going to do another demonstration of that. You can still achieve the same effect with a round brush for this is just, again, a shortcut brush and I've really enjoyed using it lately to add some dynamic flowing greenery to my compositions. Light pressure, heavy and light. You can see a little bit of streakiness there, that's just because I didn't have enough water and pigment loaded up on my brush. If you're running into that same issue, just make sure you have plenty of water and plenty of pigment. I'll also show you how you can do in a leaf stem. I'm going to do light, heavy, light. You can also use a round brush for this too, that's perfectly fine. Then I'm just adding a few more of those coming off of that original stem. Similar to the flower buds that we just painted, this style of leaf stem is also really helpful if you just need to fill in some extra white-space on a composition. Next step we'll get started on our final class project, which is the floral composition but before we get to that, I really encourage you to try adding some of these leaves that we just learned to the flowers that you painted earlier in class. 11. Project: Floral Composition: Now it's time to get started on our class project, the floral composition. As I mentioned earlier in class, I want this project to be a reflection of you as the artist. I'll share some tips and examples for how to create a floral arrangement, but I want the painting and execution to reflect your own artistic choices. Your final painting can be as simple as a flower with some flowing leaves around it. It can be a floral wreath or if you're feeling ambitious, you can even paint a full page arrangement with a variety of flowers, leaves, and buds. Here are a couple of tips to get you started. Number 1, it's best to have a focal point in your composition to draw the viewer's eyes to the main element of your piece, which is typically your larger florals and then the leaves and the buds are just supportive elements. Number 2, try to convey movement and dynamic interest in your painting by composing your flowers in a zigzag motion, adding flowing leaves and greenery to the sides of your flowers and by making sure to leave enough white space between your flowers and your leaves. Those are just a few of my composition tips that generally apply to larger scale compositions, but it can also be helpful if you're just planning to paint a flower with some leaves on the side, like this example. Even though there's just a few elements, the piece still has movement to it with the greenery coming out on each end. Pick out your color palette, decide which types of flowers you want to include in your painting and go ahead and get started. Don't forget if you feel stuck or unsure about your next step that you can always ask questions down below and I'll do my best to help you out. In the next and final video, I'll share some additional resources and we'll go ahead and wrap up the class. 12. Resources & Final Thoughts: [MUSIC] Congratulations, you've finished the class and I'm so glad you joined me as we learned to paint these beautiful beginner loose florals. I truly hope you enjoyed the process and feel much more confident in your watercolor ability. What was your favorite part of the class? Was there a specific flower or a technique that really resonated with you? Be sure to share your thoughts down in the discussion below. My personal favorite flower to paint has always been loose watercolor roses. I love how they look different each time I sit down to paint them, and I just fall in love with those wispy little c strokes. To review what we learned today, we started with an introduction to the basic watercolor flowers with the six-petal flower, and learned how to create an endless variety of them by making simple changes to the petals. We also learned to paint roses, daisies, lavender, dainty flower buds, and a few different methods for natural-looking leaves and greenery. With all those skills in hand, we finished with a beautiful composition of florals using colors and flowers of your choosing. Now that you've mastered the basic loose florals, I have a variety of additional classes to help take your painting to the next level, from intermediate floral classes to seasonal projects to creative skills like learning how to digitize your artwork and turn it into greeting cards or art prints. There are plenty of options for continuing to master your craft. With these new floral skills in your toolkit, you're creative possibilities are endless. I've said this before and I'll say it again, the key to improving your watercolor technique is truly by practicing and building up your muscle memory. So make it a priority to set aside some time to paint and practice and try your best not to get too frustrated along the way. You're not always going to like what you create, but it's all part of the journey. I want to thank you again for joining me today and I hope to see you again soon. Happy painting from me to you [MUSIC].