Beach Resin Charcuterie Board Class

1. Beach Resin Charcuterie Board Class Introduction: Hello and welcome to the beach resin charcuterie board class. My name is Cheryl and I'll be teaching you this class. In this class, I'm going to teach you step-by-step how to create a beautiful piece of functional artwork that you can also use as a charcuterie board. Let's go take a look at what we're gonna be covering. This is the beach resin charcuterie board that we're going to be creating in this class. Now when we start, we start with the plain board. I have purchased this board to use. It's just a natural wood board which is perfect for pouring resin on because you don't need to do any prep to the board other than protecting certain areas. We're going to be pouring five different layers of resin. You'll hear me in the class not sure whether I'm gonna do three or five because typically I do odd numbers. It just looks better art wise. I'll show you how to protect the back from excess resin drips, as well as how to clean them off. At the end, I'll show you how to oil your board. To the very end of the class. It's always good to regularly oil your board. So when you're washing it from, use the water, if you're not protecting it, the water can start warping your board. So it is good to learn how to protect it. I'll show you how to color your resin for each layer and just some safety tips along the way. I'll also show you how to protect this from accidentally having drops a resin on it. While your word this class comes with a downloadable PDF supply list that lists all the supplies used to create this board, as well as the actual charcuterie board. In that supply list, the supplies are actually linked to where you can purchase them and have them delivered to your door if you choose. Let's go create a beautiful piece of functional art. 2. Prepping the Board: Alright, so here is our charcuterie board. And the very first thing we need to do is we need to mask off the back where I don't want I want to be able to get the residence smooth. So I'm just going to take some painters tape. I'm going to go around the edges. Now this is a natural wood. If it wasn't a natural would, if it was finished in some way, I would want to sand that finish off where I was going to pour the resin. Obviously not where you're going to serve or whatnot, but where you're going to pour the resin, you don't want a finish on there because you want the resin to bind with the wood so that you don't have issues with it later on. Now. By that, I mean, you want it to not lift up from the wood. So like I said, this one is a natural board, so no no standing necessary. But if you're doing something on a surface that has been finished or sprayed or has something on it. You definitely want to sand that and give your boards some tooth to the resin can stick to it. So I'm following the line on this board. So you're actually seeing some of the side here, but it rounds in. Just obviously as you can see, using small pieces of tape to get that curve of that. Therefore, doesn't have to be one solid piece of tape. Bunch of small pieces will work just as well. The other thing you could do is say use liquid latex to mask off these areas that would work as well. Just decided to do it this way instead. There we go. I'm gonna put a little bit, put this down a little bit farther than I am actually pouring just to make sure that it's good and protected. Now when I go to pour the resin, I always use my gloved hand to smooth the resin on the sides because this is rounded. What I will be doing is making sure that the resin goes all the way to this area here. Just to make sure that that gets covered. All right, We're nearly done this part here. Then the other part I'm going to tape off is on the front. Now I've already put a tape and this hole here, there's a little bit of a metal rivet there. And I don't want to pour resin on that. So this piece of tape was already too small. So what I wanna do is I don't want to put any resin lower than this area because this is serving food. And resin is not intended for serving food and even the ones that you can find that stay there food safe. I wouldn't be serving to operate on it. So I'm only going to put it here. It's a decorative part of this board. So I'm just masking this off because I don't want to accidentally get any drips on this area while I'm pouring and the best way to ensure that is to tape it off. So if anything drips, it's not going to ruin the board at all. Easiest way to do that obviously is painter's tape sticks perfectly and it's easily. So you get the right amount. Last piece there. And I'm going to wrap it around there. Perfect. So I'm not gonna be going all the way up to the tape. I'm gonna be doing kind of a BCCI curvy line here, but I just don't want a chance that while I'm working, I accidentally get a grip on this area. So you need to make sure that you are working above your surface so that the resin can drip off of it. If you leave your board on the table, you're just gonna have it pooling around it. And when you pour resin, you always pour more than you really need because you want it to be poured off. You don't want you don't want to be short. So I've got this raised on, these are just painters, pyramids. And the great thing about this is if you happen to have resin that sticks to it or pores on it while you're working. Once it's cured, it just breaks right off. Last thing to do before doing anything. I'm like, Why is this not going? As you want to make sure that everything is level. If your board is not level, that resin is going to pour to the lowest point and you're not gonna be able to control where it goes. So what I do is I have my painter's Periods, Periods, pyramids under there. And I just put a skewer underneath the pyramids. Just erase the lower areas and make sure that everything is level. Super-important to do that before you do anything. Now that we're ready, I'll see you in the next video and we will start to pour Reznor right and back again, not pouring resin quite yet. I decided after I turned the camera off that I actually didn't like just a little piece of tape protecting this from getting covered in resin. So what I actually did was took some polymer clay, stuffed it in the hole and put some on the top of it so that this is raised a little bit. Then I use some tape around it to protect it because I just don't know if the resin and the polymer clay will react together because the only thing that I had that was moldable to possibly do this with. So there we go. Protected a little bit better. We'll see you in the next video and we'll start pouring some resin. 3. Pouring the First Resin Layer: Alright, I have my resin mixed. The resin that I'm using is most epoxies tabletop. I go between the tabletop in the art Pro. I like both of them. And to be honest, I don't see or notice a difference between the two of them. This is the one that was available right now. So when you get resin, there is two parts. There is a part a and part B. You mix equal parts for this brand, you mix equal parts, each one, and then you stir it for 3 min. Now, I've already done that. And while you're stirring it, you're going to scrape the bottoms and the side of the container frequently. You want to make sure that you really get all of that, All of those two parts mixed together really well. When you're mixing, typically if they're not mixed, you see striations or streaks throughout it. They're subtle because it's clear and clear. But you usually can see that once it's completely mixed, that pretty much goes away and it goes fairly clear. Now, there is bubbles in here. It comes from mixing them. Those bubbles will rise to the surface as you're working. And then the other thing, I'm going to be using a heat gun to pop those bubbles. So first thing I'm going to add to one of my containers, I've got four here. I'm adding my mix, all that's my white that I'm going to use. When you're adding anything to resin, you don't want more than 10% of it to be your colorant or your mixer. If you add more than that, you're going to have an issue with it curing properly. Then when you want to know if you have enough colorant, just lift your mixing stick. If it's covered, you're good. If it's still a little bit clear, you probably need to add a little bit more unless you're going for a translucent looking for this, I'm not. I'm just going to add a little bit more of the clear in there because I don't need as much of the clear. I do need some clear for what we're doing. We're going to put a little streak of the clear between the white and the blues. Makes sure that you follow all safety instructions for your resin. I've got gloved hands. I'm working in a well ventilated area. The safety will be either on your resin or on the website from the company. So now I'm adding some blue paint to make a darker blue and then just a little bit less blue paint to the other one. I'm going to make a lighter blue streak that in there. But that aside and let that dry. Now these statistics that I'm using, they're just skewers and reuse them regularly. So you don't, it's not a one and done. You can also get silicone skewers or a silicone mixers and I have them. I just decided not to use them today. I just this was the first thing I grabbed. I'm going to add a little bit more blue there, make it a little bit more opaque. Use a different toothpick. Now I use the toothpick because this particular paint that I'm using, it's really quite thick. And the toothpick toothpick helps me control how much goes in there. There we go. Now I don't necessarily want this to be totally opaque because we're making water. But they didn't want it to be quite as clear as before because I'm working on would I need to make sure that that would color it gets covered. So now I'm going to add a little bit of white to make a lighter blue. If by chance you have a layer of resin that doesn't quite cure properly, what you can do is pour another layer of clear over top of it and that will help that and that will fix the issue. If it's really, really botched up and really, really running, you can just kinda scrape off what you can and then pour another layer. Alright, so I've got two blues here are lighter and the darker. Perfect. Alright, now we're going to pour. I'm going to start at my darker end. I want the darker to be up here. Little bit on here. I'm not pouring all of it. I want to make sure that I have a little bit leftover. If I happen to need a little bit more, then I'm going to do the lighter one. And put a tiny little bit of the lighter in the top part is just to have a little bit of color variation. Then I'm just going to take my hands and I'm going to mix those two a little bit before. I add my white and do my waves. This part could be done at the end too. I just wanted to make sure that it got mixed. And this isn't the only layer that has just the first layer. I plan on doing at least two layers, possibly three. Here we go. Wipe that off of the glove just so that I don't get everything sticky. Now what I'm working on here is just an inexpensive shower curtain from the dollar store. It works perfect for this because once it's used up, you can just toss it and grab a new one. Good thing I protected this because I accidentally got a little bit of that clear there. And now my layer of white just to thin line rate on the side of that, clear there. Now I'm gonna get my heat gun. Just going to pause a minute while I was mixing the resin, I tried to remind myself to plug in the heat gun and totally forgot. Alright, first before I blow the waves, I'm just going to use the original. And on my heat gun, Just a low speed and I'm just going to pop some bubbles burst. The other way that you can pop bubbles is a Mr bottle with isopropyl alcohol that will work as well. But you will want to watch this for the first half, an hour or so. And then now I'm going to add the narrower thing and this is going to concentrate the air. And I'm going to hold my heat gun almost horizontally and blow the resin, the white over the blue. Alright, now I'm realizing it is hitting my tape here, so I just want to take that off because I don't want it to start running along the tape. Just going to add a touch more white right there. There we go. And then I'm just going to add some thinner parts of white in there just to blow that out and add some white in there. There we go. So that is it for our first layer. I'm going to watch it for the first half an hour or so just to pop any bubbles that come to the surface. If by chance there's any lint to that falls into it or something, I'm going to blow that off or I'm going to pick that out. And the easiest way to pick it out is take your toothpick and just pick pick it up. Basically. I typically will pour my layers about 24 h apart. That's just what works in my house with sound and people being here. You can do it less than that. You could do at about 12 h. Even less than that, probably the way to tell if it's ready for our next layer is take a clean end of a toothpick and on a part that you're going to pour your next layer, just touch it. If it just raises upward, is very sticky. It's not ready yet. If it just leaves an indent in your resin, you're ready for our next layer. So I can already see some bubbles to the surface. I'm just going to pop them. Now the other thing I had intended to grab is a clear container just to lay over top of it to protect the surface from anything falling into it. I will find one and cover it. I do see some air bubbles and it's probably because it's natural wood that hasn't been finished. That's totally fine. We will be covering this with our next layer, but we're going to let that cure completely. I'll see you tomorrow and we'll do our next layer. 4. Pouring the Second Resin Layer: Alright, so our first resin, or first layer is here and ready to pour on the second layer, it's been about 24 h. But the one thing I wanted to say before we pour the next layer is one of the things that I do in the first hour or so. Whenever layer of resonance been poured is I take a toothpick or a skewer or something. And I regularly will go underneath here and just scrape off some of the drips that just keeps them from accumulating and keeps it from being too many there. So when we go to remove them, once the board has done, it just makes our job a little bit easier. The other thing is this plug here that I created for this little robot that's in here. After about 45 min or so, the resin had thickened enough that I could lift this out. And anything that went on my tape here, I just took some isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip and I just cleaned it up. I didn't want anything to accumulate on there. And I was noticing that the resin was making a little bit of a lip there and I didn't want to get a hard lip that pointed up. So just something to keep in mind. Just pushing us back in there. So I have it there again for the next layer. I don't want that to fill in, which is why I want that there. But I also don't want to live that faces up that has to be trimmed or sanded or whatever. So by doing that, I get a nice curve down towards the rebut. So it'd be doing that for each and every single layer so that we can keep that under control. And it has a nice finished look at the end. And isopropyl alcohol cleans it off really nicely. That's another way to clean up if you get resin somewhere where you don't want it. A little bit of isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip will help to clean it up. I already have my resin mixed and ready to go once again, equal parts of each of Part a and Part B. And these cups here, you can't see it on these ones on this, the one that I have here, I took a black sharpie to make them stand out a little bit more. They have measurements on this side, so you just, it's really easy to measure equal amounts of each one of them. You just look at the side, go by the measurement, and then add the second amount to equal to the first amount. So same as last one. I'm going to do a dark blue, a light blue or white. And I need to keep a little bit of clear. Alright, so this one's going to stay my clear one. I'm going to do white and this one, mix that up. And once again, I'm using these same these are the same mixing sticks that I used yesterday. Like I said, I just reuse them over and over again. If you get from it's sitting on the tablecloth. If you get a little bit that sticks out or whatever, just pair of scissors, we'll trim it down really, really easy. So as long as you pull your stick out and the white is covering it, you are good. Let's grab our blues here. Once again, these are the Q tips that I Q-tips toothpicks that I use to do the same thing with the paint for the first layer, I reuse them. Once again. That one happened to be the white one, so you didn't see the paint on it, but this one here has the blue on it. The paint dries in between, so you're not going to contaminate anything. Doesn't want to come off the toothpicks, so put it on the side and I will scrape that off. We'll mix it. And because this is already the resin is already mixed fully. We're only I'm only mixing this until the paint has mixed in. And it's really easy to see when it is mixed in enough. There we go. That one is good. And now let's mix this one here. Take the weight off the side. And it may slightly be a different shade from the one that I did yesterday. I might have had a different ratio between the white and the blue. That's totally fine. It's the same color tones in the same color family. So we don't need to get super worried about that. Perfect. Alright, now let's pour. I have my heat gun on standby. Once again, I'm doing the dark color first. Next the light one. And I'm gonna do this a little bit shy of the way from the last one. I want to be able to see this wave. I wanna go somewhat close to it. But I do want to see that wave underneath there. I'm going to use my finger to shape how I want the wave to go. Just gives me a bit to go on or to a guide to go around. When I put my clear layer and my white layer. There we go. Wipe off the excess on the table cloth, aka shower curtain. There we are now the white for the waves. I like to see a little bit of a peak from the layer underneath there. So once again, I've got my heat gun. First thing I'm going to do is go with the nozzle that's on the heat gun. Very low heat. It's going to pop some of those bump bubbles. What this also does is it also heats up the resin. Then when I go with the narrower end, the resonance, a little bit more fluid will go a little bit better. There we go. Once again, this needs to go about horizontal width the board, and I'm going to blow the white over the blue. On high-speed. There we go. So just like last time, I want to put a little bit of white, little bit of white streaks in the handle. It just gives a little bit more movement and depth to the Water bit, especially because you'll see that, because this is transparent. You see the layers underneath there. There we go. One little thing here I've got a little bit of clear at the edge here that I want to just cover up. So I'm gonna go a little bit before it, a little bit after it, and I'm going to blow that out again. There we go. I like that better. I'm going to let that completely cool. But once again, while I am while I'm watching it, I will be going regularly and cleaning off the excess that has dripped on the bottom. I want to make sure to rub some of that resin in that curved part underneath there. Perfect. And I only rub with my gloved or gloved hands. I haven't gotten both hands. But don't do that with your bare hands. When it comes to I'm cleaning off the stuff underneath. You can do this with bare hands with a toothpick because you're not actually touching anything. You don't ever want to be actually touching the resin with your bare hands. Alright, so the next half an hour, 45 min, I'll be watching this, making sure to pop any bubbles that come up, I see some more that I need to pop her right away. After about 45 min or so, I will be popping this out and I will be cleaning it off with some isopropyl and some Q-tips. And I will see you tomorrow for the next layer. 5. Pouring the Third Resin Layer: Alright, the second layer has cured. We are ready for layer number three. Now I've got my batch of resin here. Next, let's mix our colors a little bit for the weight. Dark blue. And each time I make new batches of resin for this, I'm making a little bit less than the time before. Now. Most epoxies, which is the resin that I'm using, has a really cool calculator on their site for if you're doing a shape like a rectangle or square or whatever that you can use to figure out how much resin you'll need. But because this is an odd shape, There's not really a way to figure out. I just guess, from basically past experience really. I always have extra projects on the side to pour the excess resin in so that it doesn't go to waste. Alright, first color is the White. Now, this is the white that I'm using. I can't remember if I showed it or not. I do use it different white paint to do the coloring for the light blue. Now the reason why I don't use that white paint to do the white part for the edge of the wave is it mixes at it at a different consistency with the mics, whole white. It's kinda nice and loose and runny. But without white paint because it's so thick. Not very loose and flowy or whatnot. So there is a reason for using two different weights. They're blue. That might be a little bit too much of the blue, but that's okay. Wait, and these like I said before, these toothpicks, I'm just reusing the same ones over and over again. By the time I do the next layer, the one from the previous layer has already dried. No point in getting new supplies each and every time. Then depending on how many resin mixing cups you have, if you have a lot you can make you can just basically make a pile of dirty cops. You want to use clean cups every single time because you'll get little bubbles or little dots of resin that harden in the cup as it's drying. And you don't want to leave that in there for your next layer because you'll get it'll affect the resin cured. So you wanna make sure to either clean your cups each and every time. And I'm going to have a video at the end of this class or towards the end of this class, where I'll show you how I like to clean my cups nice and easily. I find it the easiest way. I've tried a few different ways. But like I said, if you have a lot of cups, you can just accumulate. Put my plug back in there for the dark one first. So for this one I'm just going to do a little bit at the end here. But most of it's going to be the handle. A little bit of that. All right. I'm just going to spread this around a little bit before adding my clear and white. I like to do the clear and white rate at the end just because sometimes it likes to start spreading and mixing. I don't want it to do without too much before. I use my heat gun to melt the bubbles and stuff like that, or pop the bubbles. Melt the bubbles. Alright. Wipe off that excess resin from my glove onto my shower curtain. Last color is the white. You see how all the subsequent layers from before. You see the white below there it just add some depth to it. Happy accessible. And now let's blow the white girl so I watch it as it dries. If anything pops up in here, I will pick it out with a toothpick. And then as bubbles pop up in the first 15 min half an hour or so, I'll just take my heat gun to just blast them just to remove them. I typically like to leave just do three layers of waves, but I think I might end up doing either a fourth or maybe a fourth and a fifth. Just to add a little bit to the handle, we'll see how it looks like when it cures because obviously things move and shift as they're curing. So we'll see, we'll see you in the next one. 6. Pouring the Fourth Resin Layer: All right, our third layer has now cured and we are ready to do a little wave. I keep going back-and-forth between whether I wanna do another one after this. I like odd numbers, especially when it comes to art things. So I kind of wanted it, but it might be too much on the handle. So we'll see, we'll do this one and see how it looks at the end or how it cures. The fun part about doing art though is it was executive decisions. So you can see that I only have three containers here. I'm not doing a light blue and dark blue. I'm just gonna do I'm gonna have my clear, I'm gonna do my white. And then I'm going to do the dark blue is really not too, too dark anyways. There's just not enough room. I plan on doing this wave kind of close to the handle or whatnot or where the handle on the board meet. So there's really not a whole lot of area here to cover, so there's no point in doing that transition between light and dark. All right. Mix that guy up. Soon as it's done and mixed, we're ready to go and I'm pretty sure I checked to make sure this is yeah, it's opaque enough. Always better to double-check your second guessing yourself. Alright, now the dark blue first. I'm going to do it like this. I think just to touch over there and spread it around and make sure that we've got that covered. Like I said last time, I'm, every single time I do a layer, I do, I make progressively or mix up progressively less resin. So this one was less than the amount that I've made for the previous layer. Especially if you're new to resin. What I do is I have some molds or just another project and the side that takes up very little resin. So anything that's extra. I just put it right on that and use it for that. Let me clear. It doesn't go all the way to the blue. There. We go. That way if you have a little bit too much, it doesn't go to waste. You can experiment with it. I love experimenting with it, just playing with new things. Little bit of white streaks through here. And then let's pop those bubbles. Put the Andon and blue it. The weight over the rest. There we go. So we'll watch it again for the first little while. Anything falls in it or whatnot, we will clean it up. I'll keep cleaning underneath just to limit some of the excess drips. It's still going to have drops at the bottom. We're still going to need to clean it up when this is done. But it's always nice to be able to remove the excess along the way. Then once again in about half an hour, 45 min or so, I'm gonna take that plug out. If any resin goes on my tape that's there. I'll clean it up with some isopropyl and a Q-tip. Very easy to do that. And I'll see you when it's cured. 7. Pouring the Last Resin Layer: Alright, very last coat of a resin, and I'm only doing one last wave, just a little bit up on the handle. Just to kinda break that up. I loved the depth of color. Are they a little bit so little streaks of white that we have in there. But I want to make sure to be able to get like I just want to one of these waves off somewhere up at the top or the handle there. So I've got my three containers of resin. They're gonna do this one white. Probably used for that I really needed there. But that's okay. Perfect. I'm just going to add a touch of clear to that. Just make sure I didn't have too much too much white, so it's not going to set. I don't think I did, but there we go. Then a little bit of the dark blue mix, that one. I definitely want a little bit more than that. It looks a little bit too transparent. Part of the paint actually didn't come off my toothpick because they put it down until my tablecloth, but that's okay. Sometimes when you're working with such a small amount to resonance her to get them at the bottom of the container, the start at the bottom of the container there. And I ended up having to make a new plug for my end because the last one every time he took it out of the resin, obviously, there would be resin on it and it would dry on it, which was no problem. It's not something that is meant to keep her anything. But the last one, I just couldn't even get it back into the hole, so it is done. Alright, so pour the blue first around. They're gonna do it right to there. Once again, didn't use the light color for the, for this one just like the last layer because there's so little that I don't think you'd see the change in color anyways. I'm gonna do that on an angle as well just to give it a little bit more interests rather than having a wave straight across. As it moves, as it dries, it might straighten out a little bit. Resin under there. Alright, wife, my fingers off on my shower curtain here. Thin line of clear and then a thin line of white or heat gun to remove the bubbles. As you remove the bubbles and also gets up there relevant and it just makes it a little bit more running, which is what helps the white flow over it. I'm going to just do a few more streets up here. Gonna do this again because it kinda lost it. But then just a couple more, that one that I keep putting it, the Andes are just falls right off. But that's okay. There we go. And we're going to let that cure in about 30 to 45 min. I'll pull this out and clean it up. I keep meaning to try to film it when I'm doing that, but there's usually too much noise around the house. But if it's quiet, I will do that. But all I do is pick it up and then use some isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip and just clean any resin that is on my tape that's protecting that rebut that's in there. And then I'll go back up after about 10 min or so. Because sometimes when I've done that, sometimes it goes back in a little bit and just keep cleaning it up. I just want to be able to remove that tape nice and cleanly once we are completely done. 8. Removing the "plug" and cleaning the rivet hole between layers: Alright, I remember to take the video and my host is quiet at the moment. So it's been about half an hour, 45 min. The resin is still pliable but it's sticky. And the way I test it is I'll try to remove drips from the bottom and see how you can see all those strings that stick to it. So you don't want to leave this plugin until it completely cures. Because if anything has seeped under, it's gonna be cured if anything like this string just went over the other part. If that happens after it, well, it's not going to happen after it cures. But you don't want to wait too long because right now I know that the resonance soft enough that it's going to absorb that and that's gonna go away. So to clean this, I've got my bottle with isopropyl. I took the sprayer off the top and I'm just putting a Q-tip in there, getting some isopropyl and then I'm taking the excess off. I don't want this to be sopping wet. Just do one swipe. Don't do more than one swipe per Q-tip end. And then just be very gentle cleaning it off and that can get tossed. I don't have my gloves on to protect my hands because I'm not actually touching anything like I showed before. It's super sticky right now. It's not fun to touch. And I wouldn't, because it would be horrible to try to get that off. But you don't need the protection if you're not actually touching the resin, so clean it off as best as you can. When it is like this, you'll see a ring where the isopropyl has kinda gone over top of the resin as the isopropyl dissipates in the air because it's alcohol, it's going to do that. That will go away and it will go smooth again. So don't worry about that. I just want to make sure that there's no resin left on top of my painter's tape there. And I don't really need to do at this time, but the last time some of it had gone in here inside. So I did do the same thing on the inside. I wanted to make sure that it was clean. I wanted I think that tape is going to be hard to take off, so I'm trying to make it as easy as possible. Um, but there you go. That is how you clean that between n has to be done between each and every single layer to keep that as clean as possible. And I will go back in about 5 min just to see if anything is poor, gone, breed back over the sides of the tape and clean it off again if necessary. Just wanted to come back and add. Obviously, if you chose to get a different charcuterie board and you don't have that, you can avoid that whole thing completely anyways. But I just wanted to make sure that if you got the same one and if you were working with the same one, you knew exactly how to clean that between each and every layer. 9. Removing the tape & Resin Drips: Alright, or resin has totally cured. So we are ready to take off the tape and remove the plug and stuff like that. Removed the drips from the bottom. I'm just gonna move this to the side. These here can get moved. Anything that's encased in resin on the table that's just picks up from the tablecloth. Super easy. Sometimes it takes a because it's been a couple of layers or whatnot. So sometimes it takes a little bit to fight it off of there, but they do usually do come break off. Fairly easy. I'm just going to move that to the side. Now. The garbage, this title, clean it up later. Before we turn our piece over, I'm putting a towel down so that it has something soft to lay on. This here we can we'll take the rest off here. I just wanted to make sure that I got enough to get away from this top part here. What I'm going to do is I'm going to use my heat tool and I'm going to heat it up. And then I'm going to lift the tape. Now, often that will do it. If that isn't enough to get all the drips off. I have a retractable razor scraper here to help with the rest. I'm just doing an inch or two at a time. I'm excited. So because we're softening the rest resin ahead of time, it's really quite easy to get that excess off. Now to scrape it, I want to try to not gouge into the board. I'm using a really light touch. Justice. Scrape those edges off. There's a little bit of residue that has seeped under the tape and whatever if that doesn't come off, I'll be using just a light. Are really fine coated sand paper. I realize I just said fine coated sand paper. I mean, fine grit sandpaper. I don't really have any tape anymore there to pull on because it's broken off the ends. But I can use my scraper here. Very gentle touch. Again, I'm trying not to gouge into the board. I'm just trying to lift off that excess resin. Alright, I'm going to continue this and I will show you when I'm done. Alright, so I have all the excess resin off and just standing and I've got a really fine grit sandpaper here, it's 320 grit. I also have a 400 if I need it afterwards. And I'm just making sure that everything is completely smooth. So you wanna make sure you do when you are sending is to make sure you're standing with the grain of the word. So the grain of the wood is going this way and doing all my savvy with the green. And I will keep working on it. These marks that are here, I had them here too and I've gotten rid of them. I'm just going to keep working on it. Get them gone from the top and these two sides here. But the front is done. I thought I was going to fight to get this plug out and but once I got a grip on it, it just came right out. And it looks great. I'm really quite happy with it. So the last step is just doing this. I do plan on oiling the board as well with some I think it's mineral oil or flaxseed oil. If you're using this first charcuterie board, you definitely want to look up the safe oils to use. But there we go. 10. Cleaning the Resin Cups: Alright, here is how to clean your resin cups. Now I use these silicone cups and I liked them because I can clean them and keep reusing them. Your best friend is gonna be duck tape. Cut off a piece, wrap it around. I've already wrinkled mine a little bit. Wrap it around your fingers with the tape side out. And I get a little disk at the bottom here that I want to remove 1 s. That one's not coming out because I put the tape on my hand first. You remove the disc from the bottom. Then you're gonna take your tape fingers. And the duck tape sticks really, really well to the resin drips that are in there. And you can get the cups nice and clean. I do use a new piece of tape for each cup because you do get this stuff's stuck on the resident and it stops sticking after awhile. But I've done this with just like clear packing tape and it works as well, but not nearly as good as the duct tape. Duct tape is just Mason sticky 1 s. Before I put this on my hand, I'm gonna take the disc out of whichever one I'm going to work on. This one is clear. So you might not be able to see it as well as the colored resin and the cups. But once again, tape around fingers. Sticky side out. These silicone cups because they're still flexible. You can even do this and get them on the drips coming off on both sides. But you want to make sure that your cuffs are nice and clean. Because there if there's any drips of resonance left in there, those come off in the next batch that you mix up and it will affect your finished. It will look like there's little bubbles are little drops on there. And when the resin is not cured, you can take those off. But sometimes they're a little bit of a pain to try to take out because they're not really easy to get a hold of. So the easiest thing to do is just not have those little bits of cured resin and your cups when you're making your next batch. Alright? So this one here you can see where all that resin is in there. Show you a before and after is that you can see it before him once. It's all. The nice thing with a clear as you can see exactly where it is. Sometime if it's getting being a little bit stubborn, you can do this. And it just helps to loosen it off the sides. And that last piece of tape was already not wanting to stick too much. So I'm going to grab the new stuff and it doesn't have to be expensive. Duct tape, I got some I got mine from the dollar store. It's just nice because it sticks really, really well. And it makes the job a lot easier. So people have had luck like flexing these and putting them inside out or whatever to pull the resin off and I haven't had any luck with that. So keep doing this until all of the bits and pieces are gone. Here's a piece on there that it's being a little bit stubborn on me. I'll work on that in a minute. And then last one there. And you can get silicone stir sticks as well. And I have some that I've used many, many times. I just used wooden ones for these these are those where these things were wooden skewers that I bought for a project a long time ago. So it was something I had lying around the house that I wasn't using for anything anymore. Look good. Use out of it. You could also use black or not black. You could also use popsicle sticks. Those would work as well. There we go. Now we have some clean cups for next project. 11. Oiling your Charcuterie Board: Alright, I have my cutting board, mineral oil. You want to make sure that whatever you use is food grade. I guess. It has a seal on it that I need to take off. You want to make sure that it's meant for cutting boards. You want to make sure that it is food grade. Oil in your cutting board is going to help prevent any warping from Washington, stuff like that. And it's just going to help preserve the wood. I'm not oiling any part of the resin. I'm just doing the wood. So you want to take a soft cloth and what I'm doing is I'm just going to go up to where the edge of the resin is. A little bit goes on there, That's totally fine. It can get wiped off, but I just don't want to make the whole thing oily and then let it sit for an hour. And after an hour, you're going to wipe off the excess. I have a hair here but I need to take off. You can see how the wood grain is coming out to. By doing this, make sure to do the size. We want all of the raw wood covered. There we go. So I'm going to leave this for an hour and then wipe off the excess and then I'll do the other side. I'm not going to fill in the other side because it's exactly the same as this and really not very interesting, but great way to enhance your board. And it'll help preserve it. 12. Beach Resin Charcuterie Board Class Thank You: Thank you so much for joining me for the beach resin charcuterie board class. I hope you enjoyed learning how to make this fun piece of functional art. Now, remember to care for your charcuterie board. Make sure that you do not soak it in water. Hand washing, it is totally fine. You don't want to serve food on the resin part, but we've got a lot of the weird part of the charcuterie board showing so that you can serve on that. And you also don't want to cut into the resin area because resin is essentially plastic. And if you cut in it, you are going to leave a mark. Hope you have fun creating these. These would make fabulous gifts for family and friends. I'll see you soon in another class.