Amigurumi Candy Canes: The Barber Pole Technique

1. 01 Welcome: Hi. Hi, I'm Anna. Welcome to my new class Smigurumki canes, the Barber pull technique. In this class, you learn how to crochet these five canicanes using a special technique, the barber full technique that leaves no seams or joints. Beginners are welcome, but it will be helpful if you're already familiar with the basic crochet techniques and stitches. Either way, I always explain the steps for the stitches or techniques. I'm using at least one type. And all the techniques and stitches used for the candy canes are fully explained in the step by step picture tutorials and the pattern that you can download in the project and resources step. In case you've never taken one of my classes before, I'm Anna, I'm an Amgurumi crochet designer with 14 years of experience and a pro skill share teacher. If you're ready to get started, let's talk about our class project. 2. Class Project: The project for this class is to crochet these candy canes that you can use as Christmas ornaments. You will learn how to make single stripes, double stripes and how to combine them together. I wanted to share the barber Paul technique with you, and at the same time, show you how you can create and make Christmas ornaments that you can cherish. First, we will talk about the tools and materials you'll need to complete the project and where you can get them. Then I'll show you two different methods you can use to stuff the candy canes and share the pros and cons of which one so you can choose which one you prefer. Next, we'll create our first canny cane with stripes one round thick. I refer to these stripes as single stripes throughout the lessons. Then we'll learn how to work double stripes. Stripes there are two rounds thick. In the next lessons, we'll combine the two by crocheting a canny cane with one double stripe and one single and another one with two double and two single. Finally, we will learn how to make a candy cane using three different colors. Before we begin, make sure to download the written pattern in the project and resources staff. At the end of this class, you'll be able to create stripes as thick or thin as you want and use as many colors as you like. Be sure to use the discussions page to ask questions or share any insights you may have along the way with the rest of the class. If you get stuck or need any help, I'm here to answer your questions. Met me the next lesson to find out what materials we'll be needing. 3. Materials: First, let's go through the materials you'll need. To make the candy canes, you'll need fine weight yarn in red, pearl and green. I like to work with cotton, but acrylic yarn is also a good yarn for meibomi. You'll need a 2.5 millimeter hook, C in the US, and size 12 in the UK. You'll also need stuffing, stitch markers, scissors, and an embroidery needle. In addition, you'll need craft wire 2 millimeters thick, pliers, and medical tape. You can find these materials at Craft stores or badahers either physical or online. And you can check quantities or other details in the pattern that you can download in the project and resources section. Now that we gather all the materials we need, let's find out the different ways we can stuff canes and the pros and cons of each one. 4. Stuffing as We Crochet: I chose to explain the different stuffing methods first because I wanted you to choose the one you prefer before we started to work on ar candy canes. I use both methods when making the canes, and I feel that there are positives and negatives for both, and I wanted you to be aware of them before we start. The first method for stuffing and placing the wire inside the cane is to stuff as you go along while you work your cane up and to place the wire before working the last round. For this method, you need to start to stuff the cane around round ten and continue all the way up to the penultimate Run. Before working the last round, cut a piece of craft wire a little bit longer than the candy cane. Bend one of the tips of the wire and use the pliers to close the band. Cut a little piece of medical tape and wrap it around the wire, covering its buty hand. Place the wire inside the canny cane, being careful not to push the stuffing down. Once the wire reaches the bottom of the cane, mark the point where it pops out at the opening and pull it just a little bit to the outside. Bend it below that point and repeat what you just made for the other end of the wire. Use the pliers to make a tight bend. Make sure the wire fits inside the cane. Wrap up by the end of the wire with medical tape. And push the wire completely to the inside of the cane. If you need to stuff the end of the cane a bit more, place the stuffing around the wire using the flat end of a thicker hook. Once you're satisfied with the stuffing and you can't see the wire anymore, it's time to work the last round and close the canny cane. This method is quicker and we get an even distribution of the stuffing, but we run the risk of pushing it down when we insert a wire, making it uneven. Many times, the remedy for this is to push the wire a little bit off center, but then you can feel it when you hold the cane. But because these are ornaments, I feel that that isn't a big issue. It isn't something that we are going to be holding too many times. Let's see how the second method works in the next lesson. And 5. Stuffing at the End: In this method, we are going to work our cane all the way up to the penultimatron. Without stuffing, we'll stuff and insert the wire all at the end. The start is similar to the previous method. Cut a piece of craft wire a little bit longer than your cane. Bend the tip of the wire, leaving it round at the end to avoid the wire from poking through the fabric of the cane. Cover the point of the wire with medical tape. Place the wire on top of the cane and bend the other end, making the wire a bit shorter than the cane. Cover the pointy end with medical tape. Place a bit of stuffing at the bottom of the cane using the flat end of a Tunisian crochet hook, a knitting needle, a long pencil, a bamboo stick, or any other long object that fits inside the cane. Place the wire inside the cane. The stuffing we placed at the bottom of the cane keeps the wire from poking out. To stuff the cane, grab a little bit of stuffing at a time and place them around the wire at the top. I like to start with a thicker but regular length crochet hook, and when I can push it any longer, I use my Tunisian crochet hook. Push the stuffing down using the flat end of your long object. Push evenly around the wire so that the stuffing descends and lays down evenly on the bottom. When I can push the stuffing down any further, I use my Tunisian crochet hook. Continue to stuff little by little, tapping it down and making sure that there are no gaps in the stuffing. Remember to stuff evenly all around the wire. I like to place my non dominant hand at the bottom of the cane and push the stuffing against it. Oce I can, I just use my thick crochet hook, which is easier to maneuver. Make sure to keep the wire in the center of the cane and to tap down the stuffing well. When you're satisfied with the stuffing and can no longer see the wire, it's time to work the last round and close the candy cane. This method takes longer, but gives me a stronger and even stuffing and hides the wire better. I can fill a little gap in the stuffing right here, so make sure to tap the stuffing down really well before moving on to the next layer. But overall, I think I prefer this method. Might be thinking, Well, why don't we stuff as we go along with the wire already inside the cane. That way we have better control over the stuffing and we can keep the wire in the center. That's my preferred method for all my other projects, but working with the barber pole technique requires a bit of patience and concentration, and we already need to deal with several tails and yarns at the same time. Adding go wire to the middle of the sole, I think it would make the experience unpleasant and frustrating, especially in such thin projects as the ones we are working on today. So if you want to know how to make the candy canes and how to work the barber pole technique, tell me the next lesson. And 6. Single Stripes: To make the canes, we are going to use the barber pole technique where we work with several colors at the same time. First, we are going to make the single striped canning cane using only two colors to get a starting on the basics of the barber pole technique. To make this can, you'll need one can of pearl and one of red yarn. For all the canny canes, you'll need a 2.5 millimeter hook and make sure you have a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your own. When you work with a barber pull technique, it's harder to find the first ditch of the round and we can get lost pretty easily. Let's begin. We are going to start with a magic ring just like we would for any other igurumi project, but with a little twist. You can start with either color, the pearl or the red. It doesn't make a difference. I'm starting with the pearl. Make a magic ring with the first yarn. To create a magic ring, bring the yarn to the front between your index and middle fingers. Wrap the yarn two times around the index finger. Bring the working yarn to the front over the top of your hand and secure it with your thumb. Grab your hook. Make it go under all the three loops of yarn, grab the last one and pull it under the others. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Take the magic ring from your finger. Usually, we would start with six single crochets into the magic ring. However, since we need to work, we two colors simultaneously, begin by working only three single crochets into the magic ring using the pearl color. Insert your hook into the magic ring, YarnoPullu a loop, yarn, pull through, two, one single crochet. Two single crochets, and three. Loosen the loop on the hook and leave it really big to make sure the pearl yarn doesn't unravel. With the red yarn, make a slip knot on your hook and work three single crochets into the magic ring. Insert your hook into the magic ring, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the tulips on the hook. We have one red single crochet. Two, and three. Now we have six single crochets in our magic ring. One, two, three, in pearl, and one, two, three, in red. Take the hook from the loop and close the magic ring as usual. Pull the tail from the magic ring to see which loop closes. Pull that loop towards you, closing the other loop. Pull the tail firmly to close the magic ring completely, and we are left with a circle Apel a red. We finished the first round with the red, so we need to start the second round with the red. For round two work one increase and all the stitches of the first round. At the end, you left, 12 stitches. To start the second round, work as usual, going under both loops of the next stitch and single crochet. Place the stitch marker on this stitch. To increase, work another single crochet into the same space. Continue to work on top of the Pearl half of the first round, increasing on all stitches. Two increases and the last one, one single crochet into the last stitch, and to increase one single crochet into the same stitch. Now we don't have any more stitches to work into, but we haven't finished the round yet. It's simple. We need to stop working with the current yarn and start working with the next. Loosen the loop on the hook, make it really big so it doesn't unravel and leave it. Insert your hook into the next available loop, the pearl and start working with that yarn working on top of the red stitches. The first rounds are a bit harder to work because we need to deal with details from the magic ring and from the second color as well. But once we can item inside our work, it will be much easier. To complete the second round, increase on all stitches until you reach the stitch marker. One more single crochet to increase, one single crochet into the next stitch, and one more in the same stitch to increase. One single crochet in the last stitch and another one in the last stitch to increase. At the end, we have six single crochets in red and six single crochets in pearl, which makes it a total of 12 single crochets. As you can see, we are working the two stripes at the same time. They grow together in spirals at the same time in the same round. If you would like to keep increasing, it's just like any other gurumi. The next round will be one single crochet plus one increase to the end of the round. The next will be two single crochet, plus one increase to the end of the round and so on. From round three to round 80 or until your canny cane reaches about 26 centimeters, more or less 10 " in length. W 12 single crochets in each round. I'll work a few rounds with you. Single crochet into the next stitch and place your stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round. One single crochet, two, three, four, five and six. We don't have any more stitches to work into. Take the hook from the loop and jump into the next loop. Remember to make a really big loop with the yarn you're leaving. Work the remaining single crochets of the wrong with a new color. One single crochet. Two single crochets. Three, four single crochets. Five and six. At the end of Round three, you can already start to see two little spirals forming, one pearl and one red. Continue to work without increases or decreases. Work one single crochet on top of the stitches of the previous round. One. Make sure to place the stitch marker back into the first stitch. Two. Three. Four single crochets. 56, when you get to the last stitch, jump to the next loop. Remember to leave a really big loop on the yarn you're leaving behind. You could place a stitch marker on the loops of the yarns you're leaving to stop them from unraveling, but I feel it would make our progress slower, so I just leave the loops really big and pay extra attention to the yarn I pull when I jump to the new loop. Continue to work without increases or decreases, crocheting 12 stitches in each room six red and six pearl. A few tips to keep in mind while working the barber pole technique. If you notice that the last stitch of the previous round is loose, just pull on its loop to tighten it. Once your candy cane starts to resemble a teeny tiny cup, I detail from the magic ring and any other tails inside it to make crocheting easier. If you choose to stuff as you work, start to stuff around round ten. Use the flat end of a thick rachet hook to stuff the cane. I'm using a ten millimeter hook. Stuff the cane lightly to allow the wire to go through it. To cocroch your runs in thin pieces, always count the first stitch of each round or you'll end up losing some runs. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, and ten. If I know I won't be working for a while on the canny canes, I will place a stitch marker on the loops to keep them from unraveling. Place the hook back into the loop and continue to work without increases or decreases up to around 80 or when your canny cane is 26 centimeters, more or less 10 " long. Once you have worked the 80 rounds or when your work is about 26 centimeters, more or less 10 " long, it's time to turn it into a canny cane. As you can see, there are no seams, no joints, nothing, and that's what I love about this technique. If the yarn is starting to get really tangled, turn your cane in the opposite direction from when you were working. This will untwist your yarn and make it easier to work with. Insert the wire and stuff the canny cane in whichever method you choose. After stuffing the canning cane and placing the wire inside it, it's time to close it. To close the canning cane, we need to decrease. To decrease, we decrease just like any other work using the invisible decrease. The only difference is that we need to switch yarns in the middle of the round. To make the invisible decrease, go under the front loop of the next stitch and again, under the front loop of the following stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two. One invisible decrease. Don't forget to place your stitch marker on the first stitch of the round and continue to decrease until you don't have any more stitches to work into. At the end, we'll have six stitches, three parle and three red. This is our second invisible decrease. This one makes straight. Jump into the red w. Four. Five. Six invisible decreases. If you need to reinforce the stuffing a little bit with the help of a thinner hook than the one we've used before. This time I'm using a 3.5 millimeter hook. Now we need to close the candy cane. Since I ended the round with the red yarn, I'm going to use it to close the candy cane. But first, we need to finish off the other yarn. Cut the pearl yarn, pull it up to undo the loop. For the red yarn, leave a bit of a longer tail so it can close the cane comfortably. Y. Pull the loop to undo it. We don't need the stitch marker anymore. Thread the pearl yarn on an embroidery needle and needle join to the next stitch. To needle join, insert the needle under the top loops of the next stitch. Pull the yarn gently and insert the needle back between the top loops of the previous stitch. Careful not to catch any other stitches. Finish off on the inside. To finish off insert the needle under one loop on the inside of the cane. Pull the yarn, go under the same loop again. Pull forming a loop, insert the needle into the loop, creating a knot. Insert the needle into the center of the top of the cane and make it come out anywhere on the outside of the cane. Grab the rest of the tail firmly and cut with the scissors, flush against the cane. The tail will be pulled to the inside automatically. Thread the right tail on the embroidery needle. Here's a neat trick to always thread your needle. Grab the end of the yarn between your thumb and your index finger, pull it until you can see it. Place the eye of the needle between your fingers on top of where your tail should be. Wiggle the embroidery needle between your fingers while at the same time pushing it down. And just like that, the yarn goes through the eye of the needle. To close, grab the front loops of all stitches of the last round, pulling the yarn gently. When you get to where we made the needle join, grab both the front loops of the needle join and the stitch that's below it. Once you get to the end and catch all the front loops from the last round, pull the arn firmly closing the top of the cane. To finish off, grab a loop at the top that's going directly to the center of the last round and make the needle go under it. Pull the yarn. Go under the same loop again, pull gently until you have a loop. Go into the loop and pull it creating a nut. Insert your needle into the center of the last round and make it come out anywhere on the wall of the cane. Pull the yarn, hiding the nut. I like to leave a big tail on the inside of my works. So I go again into the cane. I make sure to go into the same space and come out a little further down the cane. Pull the tail firmly and cut the yarn flush with the cane. To shape the cane, simply shape the wire inside it, bend the top until you're happy with its shape or follow a drawing you made or a picture you have. In the barber pole technique, you work the same way you would for any other Mgurumi. The only difference is that you work with different colors at the same time and jump between them inside the same room. But everything else is the same. The way you work up, the way you increase or decrease, it's all the same. Okay, now you know afterward the barber pole technique. But what if you want to make thicker stripes. Meet me the next lesson to find out how to do that. O 7. Double Stripes: To make double stripes, you need two skins of the same color. That's the trick. To make double thick stripes. If you wanted to make triple thick strips, you will need three skins of the same color and so on. If you don't have two skins of the same color, you can use both ends of one skin. That's what I'll be doing with this red yarn. Use the end that comes out of the center as if it was one skin and the end from the exterior as the other. To start the double candy cane, we start with a magic ring. I'm starting with a red. And with a 2.5 millimeter hook, work two single crochets into the magic ring. To single crochet into the magic ring, insert your hook into the magic ring, yarn over and pull up pop, yarn over and pull the yarn through the tulips on the hook. One single crochet, two single crochets. To have a double stripe, we need to grow another red stripe right next to this one. Grab your next red skin or the other end of the skin. Work a slip note on your hook and two single crochets on the magic ring to the left of the previous ones. One and two. This creates a double stripe by adding two single stripes of the same color side by side, turning them into one. Grab the pearl yarn, create a slip knot on your hook and work two single crochets to the left of the right single crochets. One single crochet. And two. Leave a big loop and work two more single crochets with the second skin to create a double stripe in pearl. Slip not on your hook and work two single crochets in the magic ring. At the end, we have the beginning of two red single stripes that will grow next to each other, and we'll create a double red stripe and two pearl single stripes adjacent to each other, that will create a double stripe in pearl. And in total, we have eight stitches. The number of single crochets we work with each color isn't going to affect the thickness of the stripe. I could have begun with one single crochet with the first red skin and two single crochets with a second red skee and we would still get the double stripe anyway. That would give us a total of six stitches, three pearl, and three red at the end instead of eight. But it's much easier to work the barber pole technique if you start with stitches for each cane. But if you don't want your cane to be this thick, you can start with six stitches instead of eight. Close the magic ring. Pull the tail from the magic ring and see which loop moves. Pull the top part of the one that moved to close the other one. Pull the tail firmly to close the second loop. Place your hook back into the loop of the yarn you last work with. I ended the first round with the second skin of pearl, so I'm starting the second round with the second skin of pearl. The Mrs ces we work with, it's more difficult to find the first stitch of the round if we get lost. So make sure to mark the first stitch of each run. For round two, increase on all available stitches. At the end, we left 16 stitches. One single crochet to the next stitch. The more scans we work with, the more difficult it is to find the first stitch of the round if we get lost. So make sure to mark the first stitch of each round. One more single crochet into the same space to increase. To increases. Jump to the next loop when you don't have any more stitches to work into. As before, you can place stitch markers on the unused loops, but that will slow down our work. So I prefer to leave a really big loop. Now we are working with four skins at the same time, two of each color. So pay extra attention that you're pulling the right yarn to close the loop around the hook. When working into the first stitch of a new set of stitches, make sure to place the working yard to the left of the knot of the first stitch to hide it. Continue to increase on all stitches to the end of the round. We have four increases. We need four more. Jump into the next loop. Make sure to pull the right yarn. Into the next stitch to single crochet. One more single crochet in the same spot to increase, five increases into the next stage, single crochet, one more single crochet to increase, six increases. Jump into the next loop, close the loop around the hook. Single crochet into the next stitch. Single crochet into the same stitch to increase seven increases. One single crochet into the less stitch. Oops. Let's do that again. One more single crochet to increase. Eight increases. At the end, we have 16 stitches. At the end of Round two, we can already see the double stripes start to form. This red single stripe is going to form on top of this one, and the sprawl stripe is going to form on top of this one, creating the double stripes. I like the thicker candy canes to be a little bit longer, so work without increases or decreases from round three to 95. Or when your cane reaches 13.5 centimeters, more or less 12 ". I'll work the next round with you. Take the stitch marker and continue to work with the same yarn. Work on single crochet, place the stitch marker into this stitch and continue to work on single crochet on all the remaining stitches. This is the second one. Three, and four. We don't have any more stitches to work in to make a big loop and jump to the next. Be careful to pull the right yarn and continue to work on top of the next stitches. At the end, we have 16 stitches. Five single crochets, six, seven, eight, jump to the next top. Nine single crouches. Ten, 11, 12. Jump in to the last loop. Make sure to close the loop around the hook. 13 single crochets, 14, 15, last one, 16. The following rounds are work the same way as this one without increases or decreases. Continue to work like this up to round 95 or when the cane is 30.5 centimeters, more or less 12 " long. If you prefer the stuff as you go along method, remember to start stuffing around round ten. Here is my canning cane with the double stripes at the 95th round. And as you can see, there are no seams, no joints, nothing, and that's what I love about this technique. For the last round of the cane, work eight invisible decreases to the end of the round. At the end of your left, eight stitches. Take off the stitch marker. Go under the front loop of the next stitch. And again, under the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through to. One invisible decrease. Repeat to the end of the round, working two invisible decreases with each yarn. Always remember to mark the first stitch. Go under the next front loop. And again, under the next front loop of the following stage, no, pull up a loop, you are, and pull through two, two invisible decreases. Jump into the next loop. This makes three invisible decreases. Four invisible decreases. Jump in to the next loop. Five invisible decreases. Six invisible decreases. Jumping to the next. Seven invisible decreases. One more. Eight invisible decreases, which makes it eight stitches at the end of round 96. Plus the wire and or stuffing inside the cane depending on the stuffing technique you choose. If you need to stuff the end of the cane a bit more, just like before I'm going to leave the lest jar, we used a little bit longer to close the cane. Cut all the other yarns with long enough tails to needle join and finish off. To needle join, thread one of the smaller ends on an embroidery needle and insert it under the top loops of the next stitch. Pull the yarn. Insert the needle between the top loops of the previous stitch and make it come out on the inside of the canni cane. Okay. Finish off on the inside. Grab a loop inside the cane, pull the arm, go under the same loop again. Pull gently, forming a loop. Go into the loop and pull forming a knot. Bring the tail to the outside of the body of the cane. Take the stitch marker from the cane. At this point, all it does is getting the way. Repeat for all the other smaller tails. Reinforce the stuffing a bit more if you need to. Do cloths, thread the longest tail on the embroidery needle and catch all the front loops of the last round of the cane. Where you have needle joins, make sure to catch both the front loops of the needle join and of the stitch that's directly below it. Pull the yarn tightly, closing the last round of the canny cane. To finish off, go under one of the loops that's going to the center of the top of the cane. Pull the yarn, go under the same loop and pull gently until the yarn forms a loop. Insert the needle into the loop and pull forming a nut. Insert the needle into the center of the last round and make it come out on the outside of the candy cane. Pull tightly to hide the nut. At this point, I like to squeeze the cane lightly, distributing the stuffing evenly inside it. Cut the smaller ends, flush against the cane. If you want to make the longer tail, come out further down the cane. Just make sure you go into the same space as you came out before. Pull the yarn and cut it flush against the cane. Be careful not to cut the cane. Now that the cane is closed, we just need to shape it. Bend one of the ends of the cane to form a curve at the top or follow the shape of a drawing or photo you have or made. And that's how we make the double stripes using the barber pull technique. In the next lesson, we are going to learn how to combine the double stripes and the single stripes in the same project. See you there. 8. Single and Double Stripes I: In this lesson, we are going to create a cane with a double striping pearl and a single striping red. For that, we need two skins of pearl yarn and one of red, making it a total of three skins. This way, we can divide the six initial single crouchts neatly between the three skins. Meaning we'll have to work two single crouchts with each cane into the magic ring. I'm starting with a pearl yarn. Just like for the other cane, start with a magic ring. I'm starting with a pearl. Start round one by working two single crochets into the magic ring with the 2.5 millimeter hook. Leave a big loop. Grab the second pearls can. Make a slip knot on your hook and work two more single crochets right next to the previous ones. Sometimes it's a bit tricky to find the new one. So be patient and take your time to find the right one. Finally, grab the red yarn, make a slip note on your hook, and we two more single crochets to the left of the pearl ones. At the end of round one, we have six single crochets. Close the magic ring. Go back to the last loop you used for miss the red and work on increase on each of the stitches of the previous round. At the end of the second round, you left those stitches. Work on single crochet into the next stitch. Make sure to place the stitch marker. And to increase, work a single crochet into the same stitch as before. Continue to increase all the way around, jumping from yarn to yarn when you don't have any more stitches to work into. Jump into the next loop. One single crochet into the next stitch. Make sure to keep the knot of the next set of stitches to the right of the working yard. One single crochet, another one in the same spot to increase. One single crochet in the next stitch. One more to increase. Jump into the next loop. One single crochet into the next stitch. Make sure to grab both loops. One more single crochet into the same spot to increase. One single crochet to the next stitch and one more in the same space to increase. As before, what makes the stripes be double or single is how many skins of the same color we attach to the magic ring and their order. For the double stripes, we need to make sure that the skins of the same color are side by side. Work without increases or decreases for the third round to the 80th or until your cane is 26 centimeters, more or less 10 " long. I'll work the next round with you. Take off the stitch marker. One single crochet into the next stitch. Replace the stitch marker into the first stitch. Two single crochets. Three, four, jump into the next loop. Five single crochets. Six, seven, eight. Into the next loop. What? Make sure to go under both loops. Nine, ten, 11, 12 stitches. At the end of round three, you can already see the stripes starting to form, one double in pearl, one single in red. Continue to work with on increases or decreases up to round 80 or until your cane reaches 26 centimeters, more or less 10 " long. As soon as you can, hide the tails from round one inside the cane. And if you choose to stuff as you go along, start to stuff around round ten. I work my canning cane up to round 80, and now for the last round, we need to decrease all the way around. At the end of round 81, you left six stitches. To work an invisible decrease, go under the front loop of the next stitch. And again, under the front loop of the following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two. Make sure to replace the stitch marker on the first stitch. We made our first invisible decrease. Two, jump into the next loop. Three. You can place the index finger of your non dominant hand behind the stitches you are working into to avoid catching any extra loops. Four. Five. Last one. Six invisible decreases. At the end of this round, you have six stitches. All we need to do now is close. Cut all the arms, leaving this red one a bit longer to close the cane. Nile join and finish off on the inside, both pearl ends. Thread the tail on an embroidery needle and to needle join. Go under both loops of the next stitch. Pull the yarn, go between the top loops of the previous stitch. Pull the yarn and finish off on the inside. To finish off, grab one loop on the inside of the cane, pull the yarn, go under the same loop again to form a loop with the yarn. Go into the loop and pull forming a knot. Repeat for the other shorter tail. Go under the top loops of the next stitch, between the top loops of the previous stitch. Pull the yarn, and finish off on the inside. Add the shorter tails inside the cane to get them out of the way. If you need to stuff the cane a bit more with a longer tail, close the cane by going under all the front loops of the last round with the embroidery needle. Remember to catch both the front loops of the needle joins and of the stitch directly below it. Pull the arm tightly, closing the c. Finish off by going under one of the loops that disappear into the center of the last round. Go under the same loop again, pull gently until the arn forms a loop, insert the needle into the loop, and pull forming a knot. Insert the needle into the center of the last round and make it come out anywhere in the body of the cane. Pull firmly, ding the knot. Cut the yarn. Shape the cane by curving one of its ends until you're satisfied with its shape. Remember, you can use a drawing you made or a photo you have and follow that shape. In the next lesson, we are going to crochet a cane with two double strips and two single strips. Let's go. 9. Single and Double Stripes II: To create this candy cane, you'll need three skins of the pearl yard and three of the red. Since I only have one skin of the red, I cut a mini skein of marl at 6 grams to make the single stripe, and I'm going to use both ends of this skin to make the double stripe. As always start a candy cane by making a magic ring, I'm starting with a pearl. With your 2.5 millimeter hook, work one single crochet into the magic ring. Grab the next pearl yard, work a slip not on your hook, and work one more single crochet into the magic ring to make the double pearl stripe. Next, we want a double red stripe. Grab the first red skin, work a slip not on your hook, and w one single crochet into the magic ring. Grab the next red skin and work one more single crochet into the magic ring. This will grow into the double red stripe. Grab your third pearl skin, work a slip knot on your hook, and one single crouche into the magic ring. One thing to keep in mind when adding your colors to the magic ring is to pay attention to the first and last colors on the magic ring because once you close it, they will be together and you can accidentally create a double or triple stripe where you don't want it. Next, grab your less red yarn, work a slip knot on your hook, and work one single crochet into the magic ring. Be careful to catch only the loops from the magic ring. If you wanted to create a thicker cane with eight stitches at the end of the first round, you can wear two single crochets with the less pearl and red skins, or you can add one extra single stripe of pearl and red. Close the magic ring. At the end of round one, we left six stitches. On the second round, increase on all stitches of the previous round. At the end, you'll left 12 stitches. One single crochet. Remember to mark the first stitch of the round. One more single crochet into the same stitch twincreas M two. Three. One more to increase. Four. Five. Six. We need six more. Seven. Eight. But nine, ten. This last stitch is sometimes a bit hard to see, so make sure to work into it. 11 and 12. From round three to 80 or when the cane reaches 26 centimeters, more or less 10 " long, work one single crochet into each of the single crochets of the previous round. For each of these rounds, you 12 stitches at the end. I'll work the next round with you. Work one single crochet into the next stitch. One single crochet. Be sure to place the stitch marker on the first stitch. Two single crochets jump to the next loop. The single crochets. Four, jump into the next loop. Five, six, into the next loop. Seven, eight, to the next look. Nine, ten, into the last look. 11 and 12. At the end of Round three, we can already start to see the double and single stripes forming. Continue to work with on increases or decreases up to round 80. Remember to start staffing at the Round ten if you prefer that method. And once you can add the tails from the first round inside the cane. Here we are at the end of round 80. For round 81, decrease all around. At the end of your left, six stitches. Insert your hook under the front loop of the next stitch and again under the front loop of the following stitch. N over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through to one invisible decrease. Remember to mark the first stitch of the round. Jump to the next loop. To decreases, jump to the next loop. Three to the next loop. Far. Into the next loop. Five jump to the next loop. Six invisible decreases. At the end, you'll left, six stitches. Cut all the yards, leaving the last one a bit longer to close the cane. Cut needle joint and finish off on the inside, all the other ends. If you need to stuff the cane a bit more, To needle join, go under the top loops of the next stitch. Between the top loops of the previous stitch, come out on the inside of the cane and finish off on the inside. Repeat for all the smaller tails. Close the cane treading the long tail on an embroidery needle and going under all the front loops of the last round. Remember to catch both the front loops of the needle join and the stitch below. Pull the yarn tightly, closing the cane. Finish off by going under one of the loops that is appearing to the center of the last run. Go under the same loop again. Pull gently until the yarn forms a loop. Insert the needle into the loop and pull forming a knot. Insert the needle into the center of the last run and make it come out anywhere in the body of the cane. Pull the yarn to I do not, you just create it. Cut the ends left outside the cane. Our cane is closed, and all it's left to do is shape it. Curve the top end of the cane, curving the wire inside it. Do you want to make a cane with Barden two colors. We'll learn that in the next lesson. See you there. 10. Double Stripes - 3 Colors: For this, we are going to crochet for double stripes using three colors. You'll need two skins of red, I'll be using both ends of this skin. Two skins of green, I'll be using both ends of this can as well. And for skins of pearl, as always start with the magic ring, I'm starting with the red yarn. Work one single crochet into the magic ring. Grab the other red yarn, create a slip knot on your hook, and work one more single crochet into the magic ring. Next, grab the Pearl, slip on your hook and work on single crochet into the magic ring. Grab the next pearl yarn, slip knot, and one single crochet in the magic ring. Next, I want to add the green. Grab the green yarn, work a slip knot on your hook, and work one more single crochet into the magic ring. Grab the next green yard, slip note, and one single crochet into the magic ring. Now because I want to always have a pearl stripe between the green and red ones, I need to add another pearl stripe between them. Otherwise, the green stripe would grow directly on top of the red one. And so grab yet another pearl yarn, slip no and work a single crochet on the magic ring. Finally, grab the last pearl yarn, slip no, and work on single crochet in the magic ring. Close the magic ring. At the end of the first round, we have eight stitches. If after closing the magic ring, you don't remember where you need to start the second round, just look for the tail of the magic ring. The one you want, it's the loop to the right of the magic ring's tail. For this skin, we are working with eight skins at the same time. This means nine tails counting with the one from the magic ring that get in the way in the first few rounds and eight loops that are banging to get pulled accidentally and unravel. So work slowly and patiently. Remember to leave extra long loops when you leave them and always always mark the first stitch of each round. For the second round, increase on every stitch of the previous round. At the end, you left 16 stitches. Work a single crochet into the next stitch. Place the stitch mark around the first stitch. Work another single crochet to the same statge to increase two single crochets. Jump to the next. One single crochet into the next stage. One more into the same statgT increase, four single crochets. Jump to the next loop. One single crochet into the next stage. One more into the same stitch to increase. Six single crochet. Jump to the next loop. One single crochet into the next stitch. One single crochet into the same stitch to increase eight single crochets. Into the next loop. Y One single crochet into the next stitch. And another in the same stitch to increase. Ten single crochets. Jump into the next loop. One single crochet into the next stitch. One more into the same stitch to increase. 12 single crochets. Jump to the next loop. One single crochet into the next stitch. H. And one more into the same stage to increase 14 single crochets. Jump to the last. One single crochet into the last stitch. One more into the last stitch to increase 16 single crochets. From round three to 95 or when your cane reaches 30.5 centimeters, more or less 12 ", W one single crochet in each of the stitches of the previous rounds. I'll work the next round with you. Work one single crochet into the next stitch. One single crouchet, place the stitch marker back into the first stitch. Two single crochets jump into the next loop. It's The single crochets. Four single crochets. Jump into the next loop. Five, six into the next loop. Seven. Eight. We need eight more. Jump into the next loop. Nine, ten, into the next loop. 11, 12, into the next loop. 13, 14 into the last. 15 and 16 single crochets. At the end of round three, we can already start to see the double stripes forming. Continue to work without increases or decreases up to round 95. Remember to start stuffing at a round round ten if you're stuffing as you go along and once you can hide the tails from the first round inside the cane. We are at the end of Round 95 and for round 96, we are going to decrease all around. At the end of 11, eight stitches. To decrease, insert your hook under the front loop of the next stitch. And again, under the front loop of the following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the tulips on the hook. Place the stitch marker on the first stitch. One invisible decrease. Jump to the next loop. To invisible decreases jumping to the next loop. The invisible decreases. Jump into the next two. Four invisible decreases into the next two. Five into the next two. Six invisible decreases into the next loop. Seven, jump to the last loop. And eight invisible decreases. Cut all the yards, leaving the less red one a bit longer to close the cane. Needle join and finish off on the inside, all the ends, except the long red one. To needle join, go under the top loops of the next stitch. Back between the top loops of the previous stitch. Finish off on the inside. Insert a needle into the cane and make it come out to the outside through the wall of the cane. Repeat for all the smaller tails. If you need to stuff the cane a bit more, Close the cane threading the longer yarn on an embroidery needle and going under all the front loops of the last round. Remember to catch both the front loops of the needle joints and the stitches directly below them to close the canny cane. Pull the yarn tight to it. Finish off by going under one of the loops that disappear into the center of the last run. Go under the same loop again. Pull gently until the yarn forms a loop. Insert the needle into the loop and pull forming a nut. Insert the needle into the center of the last run and make it come out anywhere in the body of the cane. Pull hiding the knot. All the yarn toot and cut it flesh against the cane. Uh The cane is closed, and all it's left to do is shape it. Just like before, curve the top end of the cane, curving the wire inside it. Remember, you can use a drawing you made, or a photo you have, and follow that shape. And that's five candkanes completed. I hope you enjoy and that you'll fill your home with caddy cananes. Which one is your favourite? I think mine is the last one. 11. Wrap Up and Thank You: You made it. I hope you enjoyed creating cutting canes, and I hope that this class has inspired you to create different variations and to use the barber pole technique and your future projects. Now you have your own and made ornaments ready to hang on your tree or to give to close ones. Please be sure to leave a review if you like this class. I can't wait to see your projects and the combinations you come up. Sure to post pictures of your finished gains in the project and resources section. Feel free to post process pictures while you're working on a project as well. And if you share on Instagram, please tag me. My handle is buddy Romy, and I always like to see what you're creating over there as well. If you're a beginner and found yourself lost in pausing a lot on this class, please check out my other class here on skill share and Migumi basics, Crochet your fase Migo Rumi. I go over the very basic stitches and techniques you need to learn to start crocheting and make an amingo Rumi. And remember, I'm always here to help, so be sure to leave questions in the discussion step if you have any doubts. And if you love this class, I have many more coming where I share more fun projects. So be sure to click the follow button above to be notified when that happens. If you have anything specific, you'd like to see me teach, please drop me a line. I really appreciate to hear what you want to watch. Thank you so much for spending this time with me. See you next time.