Amigurumi Basics: Crochet Your First Amigurumi

1. Introduction: Do you like making handmade gifts for friends and family? Do you want to learn how to make cute Megumi? Don't know how to crochet. Don't worry. Come with me. Hi, I'm Anna. I'm the designer and on Badum, I started making Amigo in 2010. When I discovered by accident that you could crochet the animals, I grabbed my grandma's old hooks and yarns and taught myself how to crochet right there. And then at first, I followed other designers instructions and studied all the stasis work to make the shapes of the Amigo. Soon I started to create my own designs and to write my own patterns. Today I of patterns that I sell on my own website and on Etsy. These are some of my designs. I like to make a Megumi inspired by nature, like animals, cacti, and succulents. I also like to make fun crochet cut beds like this one. Amigo and crochet are really fun crafts to learn. You can make almost anything with a hook and yard. I really like to push the limits of what you can make with crochet and I want to share my secrets with you. This classes for beginner crochets or for crochets that want to refresh their skills. In this class, you'll learn the basics of crochet and amigo while making this little bird. You will learn what tools and materials you need. How to hold the hook and yarn, the basic stitches. How to work in rounds and rows. How to color change and make horizontal stripes. And how to assemble all the pieces together. As a final step, you will learn how you can turn your Megumi into a key chain that you can use on your purse, on your backpack, or with your kids. By the end of this class, you'll be comfortable crocheting and reading written crochet patterns and ready for bigger projects. Thanks for joining me. Let's crochet. 2. Class Project: Welcome, I'm so excited that you're here. Your class project is to crochet your first a Megumi, this little bird, and to turn them into a kitchen. I chose to teach how to make this little bird, because while making it, you will learn the fundamental skills to start crocheting and making a Megumi. Also, I wanted you to have something cute and that you can use at the end. Be sure to download the written pattern in the project and resources. We will learn how to read written crochet patterns as we create our little bird. First, we will talk about the tools and materials that will be needed to complete this project, where you can get them and alternatives. Some of the materials. Next, I'll show you how to hold your hook and yard. Then we will start working on the body of the bird starting from its head. We will start with the magic ring and working in continuous rounds. We will make the stripe continue to make the body stuff it and cause it without leaving a trace. Next we will make the tail working in rows. We will combine working in rounds and rows to make the wings. Finally, back to working in rounds to make the beak. After we make all the pieces, we'll assemble them into this cute little word. As a bonus, you will learn how to attach a key chain to your room. Be sure to share the progress on your project as we go along right through to the finished bird. By sharing pictures or thoughts in the project and resources section, Be sure to use the discussion page to ask questions or share any insights with the rest of the class. If you get stuck or need any help, I'm here to answer your questions. Grab your hook and see you in the next lesson. 3. Materials: First things first, let's go through the materials we need in more detail. First, you'll need a 3.5 millimeter hook, which in US terms is four and in UK terms is a size nine hook. You'll also need a 2.2 millimeter hook or a C hook for the US or a size 12 hook in the UK. I prefer to use these gray ones because they have a coating that makes them slide. They are easier, but there are many different types of hooks with different types of vandals. The ones that you're more comfortable with. Next, you'll need two colors of medium weight yarn for the bird's body. I chose the light gray and the light green. And you'll need one color of fine weight yarn for the bird's beak. I chose the light yellow. I prefer to work with cotton yarn, but acrylic yarn is also a good yarn to use in a mingming. What does the weight of the iron mean? The weight of the yarn tells us how thick the yarn is. The bigger the weight, the thicker the yarn. Medium weight yarn is a yarn that has 132-210 meters in 100 grams in some brands is marked with a number four. If we look at the label of the yarn, we can see that, for example, the thicker yarn that I'm using for this project, 105 meters in 50 grams, which means that in 100 grams it has 210 meters, which makes it a medium weight yarn. The fine weight yarn is a finer yarn that as 260-400 meters in 100 grams or sometimes is marked with the number two. The finer yarn I'm using for this project S 180 meters in 50 grams, which means it has 360 meters in 100 grams and that makes it a fine weight yarn. Some yarns are sold in 50 grams skins. So you might find it helpful to divide the quantities in the weight table into, before buying the yarn. In the Project and Resources tab, you can find the table with the different weights of yarn. You might also see that in a label of the yarn, there is a recommended size hook for Amigo. Always use a hook that is one to two sizes smaller than what's recommended on a label, so you end up with a doll with no holes in its fabric. I recommend that for medium weight yarns, you use a 3.2 millimeter hook. For fine weight yarns, you use a 2.2 millimeter hook. Of course, you can always experiment with the yarn you have, making a swatch and seeing if it has any big holes. Oh, quick tip. Keep the labels of your yarn with a sample attached so you can buy the exact same one. If you need more, you'll need stuffing. The stuffing is this fluffy material called polypill. If you don't have poly Phil on hand, you can use yarn or fabric scraps or even cotton. You'll need a pair of nine millimeter Safety. Yes. If you don't have safety eyes, you'll need fine weight yarn in black and white as well. Need a stitch marker. If you don't have a fancy one like this, you can use a paper or even a scrap of yarn to mark the beginning of your runs. You'll also need an embroidery needle, scissors, and sewing pins. All these materials you can find at craft stores or aberdasheries, either physical or online. Now that we gathered all the materials we need, let's go over how we should hold our hook and yard. 4. Hold the Hook and Yarn: In this lesson, we'll go over the methods used to hold your hook and yarn. Hold the hook with your dominant hand and the yarn with your non dominant hand. There are two methods to hold the crochet hook. The knife fold where you hold your hook like you would a knife if you were about to cut a piece of food with your index finger and thumb holding the hook in the narrower part. The end of the hook is under the palm of your hand and held close to it by the other three fingers. The second method is the pencil hold, where you hold the hook as you would a pencil with your thumb and index finger on either side of the narrow part of the hook, with the middle finger a little bit forward on the hook. In this hold, the end of the hook is above the hand. I prefer the pencil hold, but you use what feels more comfortable to. You hold the hook firmly, but not too tight. There are many different ways you can hold the yarn. I'll show you how I hold it, which is how I learn and what feels more comfortable to me. Place the working yarn. That's the yarn that it's going to the skin over your index finger of your non dominant hand and under the other three fingers, all the working yarn with a ring and little fingers, maintaining an even tension on the yarn, all the yarn firmly, but not too tight to avoid unnecessary strain while working. I like to keep my index finger right behind my work because it helps me to hold it along with the thumb. Now that you know how to hold your Ok yarn, let's dive in. 5. Magic ring and single crochet: In this lesson, we'll start to make the body of the bird. We will learn how to make the magic ring and not the single crochet. We will also start to learn how to read written crochet patterns. In the project and resources section, you'll find the written pattern for the little bird we are about to make as we go along. I'll explain line by line what each abbreviation means so that by the end of this class, you will know how to read Britain Crochet patterns. Keep in mind that I use US names and abbreviations. This is important to know because patterns written in the English language can be written using either the US or the UK nomenclature in the project. In research step, you can find a conversion chart tip. You can write the abbreviations and their meaning on a sticky note and attach it to the page of the pattern you are working on. Or keep it on your table where it can be easily accessible. Let's start in the first line of the pattern. We can see R and D one column six, into the magic ring. Open parenthesis, close parenthesis. If we look at our abbreviation table, we can see that R and D means round S, C means single crochet, and ST means stitches. The number between parentheses at the end of each line indicates how many stitches you should have after you complete that round. For the first round, we need to work six single crochets into the magic ring. At the end of that round, we'll have six stitches. The single crochet is a smaller crochet stitch that makes a tight fabric but not too stiff. It's ideal for a Megumi because it doesn't let the stuffing to show through. To start the body of the bird, we need to make a magic ring first. This is the most used technique to start an Amigumi worked in runs. An alternative method is to chain four plus slip stitch to the first chain to make a ring. I think it's harder to work your stitches in two and you end up with a hole in the center of your Amigo. The magic ring is easier to work into and it closes completely to make a magic ring. All the three end of your light gray yard, the color you chose for the body of your bird. And place it from the back to the front, between your index and middle fingers. Wrap the free end of the yard two times around the index finger, holding it between the index and middle fingers. Grab the working yard and bring it to the front. Over your fingers, hold the working yard with your thumb. Grab your 2.2 millimeter hook and make it go under all the loops. Grab the last loop with your hook and pull it to make it go under the other two loops, yarn over. This means to place the working yarn over the hook and pull the yarn through the loop on the hook. Completing the magic ring, gently take the magic ring off your finger to work. Single crochet into the magic ring. Make the hook go into the magic ring, yarn over, pull up a loop. This means bring a loop to the front through the magic ring or stitch yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook. You've made your first single crochet. Repeat five more times. Insert the hook into the ring yarn over, pull up a loop yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook into the ring yarn over, pull up a loop yarn over, pull through 23 single crochet, We need the Insert your hook into the magic ring yarn over, pull up a loop yarn over. Pull the yarn through the two loops on the hook. Insert your hook into the magic ring yarn over, Pull up a loop yarn over, pull to the two loops on the hook into the ring. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through to six single crochet into the magic ring. Now we need to close it, Loosen the loop on your hook. By pulling the hook up and letting the yarn move. Take the hook from the loop. Turn the ring upside down with the loop pointing downwards. And the loops of the magic ring turn to you, pull gently on the tail and see which loop from the magic ring moves. Grab the loop that moved close to the tail of the magic ring and pull it towards you. Beginning to close the magic ring. Pull it as tight as you can. Next, grab the tail of the magic ring and pull it. Closing the magic ring completely. As you can see, the magic ring closes completely. Window holds at its center. Grab your hook and place it once more into the loop. Pull the working yard gently to close the loop around the hook. The first round is completed. In the next lesson, we are moving on to the second round of the bird's body, where we'll learn how to increase. See you there. 6. How to Increase: In this lesson, we are going to learn how to increase and how to make our work bigger. Let's start on the second round, we find a new abbreviation, Inc two. Let's take a look at our abbreviation chart. And we can see that it means to increase the number of stitches by working two single crochet into the same stitch of the previous round or row times by six. Just means that we need to repeat what's between parentheses six times. At the end of the second round we'll have 12 stitches because we started with six single crochet and want to grow the head of the bird straight out to the sides. We need to increase six times evenly around the first round. For the second round we need to work, we increase in all stitches of the previous round. Because we're working in continuous rounds, also known as spirals, we start working the second round directly on top of the first without joining or chaining. This is also the reason why we need a stitch marker, because without using one, it's hard to tell where our rounds start. Sometimes it's hard to find the first stitch on the first run, which is where we need to start the second round to find and count the stitches on the first round. In our case, six, beginning next to our hook, there are two ways you can identify and count your stitches. First is from the front. From the front. One single crochet on the last work round or row looks like the letter V with the horizontal bar on top. The other way is from the top of the round or row. Each individual stitch looks like the letter V stacked on top of each other. Almost all crochet stitches look like this from the top. In this case, I'm going to count the stitches from the front, but because the single crochet are so tightly pressed against each other, I'm going to count horizontal bars on top. Okay, Count with me 123456. This is where we need to work our first stitch of the second round. Sometimes the first stitch of the first round is a little bit tight. You need to be patient working into it to make one increase. Insert your hook under both loops of the first stitch of the first round yarn over and pull up a loop yarn over and pull the yarn through the loops on the hook. Place your stitch marker on the first stitch because we're increasing. Instead of inserting our hook into the next stitch, we're going to insert our hook into the same stitch as before. Insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook. You made your first increase, where before you had one stitch, now you have to now repeat five more times in the remaining stitches. Insert your hook into the next stitch and work a single crochet yarn over. Pull up a loop yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook. To increase work another single crochet into the same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop yarn over, pull through two, continue to increase on all stitches to the end of the round. I'll see you there at the end of round two. We'll have worth one increase in each of the stitches from the first round. Now we have 12 stitches for the next few rounds. We already know all the abbreviations. We need to keep increasing evenly so that the head grows at the same pace all around. We need to work the same amount of increases as before. Six and space them evenly on the next round. On the third round, work one single crochet increase in the next stitch, repeat six times. At the end, you'll have 18 stitches. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull up the loop yarn over. Pull through the two loops, one single crochet. Place your stitch marker on the first stitch, increase in the next stitch. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull up, loop yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on the hook. Into the same stitch. Yarn over, pull, polo yarn over, pull two. You have your first group of one single crochet plus one increase. Repeat five more times to the end of the round. At the end of the round, we should have 18 stitches. We don't need to increase the width of the head anymore, but we need to make it taller. And for that we need to work single crochet is on all stitches all the way around. So for Rounds 4.5 we need to work 18 single crochet, one on each available stitch of the previous round. Insert a hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a look yarn over and pull through two. Repeat to the end of the run. When you get to the end of round four, repeat the same thing for round 51, single crochet into each stitch of the previous run. I'll see you at the end of round five. Make sure to keep placing your stitch marker on the first stitch of each round. Now that we work two rounds without increasing or decreasing, the head of the bird grew taller, but now we need to make it a little bit wider again, we are increasing again on the next round, we want to take a guess what we need to work on the sixth round. That's right, the single crushes plus one increase repeat six times and at the end we left 24 stitches. I'll make the first repetition with you. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over. Pull up a loop yarn over, Pull through the Tu loops on the hook. One more, single crochet. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two. Now the increase. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two into the same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook. Repeat five more times to the end of the round. See you there. At the end of the sixth round, we have 24 stitches and now it's time to make the stripe on the bird's neck. But that's on the next lesson. See you there. 7. Making the Stripe: In this lesson, we are going to make the horizontal stripe in the bird's neck. We are going to learn how to change colors in a way that blends in with the rest of the work. Here we are back at the end of the sixth round. Now we need to make the stripe, but if we were to make our next stitch in the second color, we would get a stitch green, gray. And that would give away where we changed colors. There's a little trick I'm going to show you to avoid this. But first, we need to learn a little bit more about the anatomy of crush stitches. If we look at the top of the stitches, we can see that there are two loops that form a V. The arm of the V that is closest to you when your work is turned to you is called the front loop. And the one that is farther away is called the back loop. To start the stripe, we first need to undo the last stitch of the sixth round. To undo the last stitch, take your hook from the loop and place it between the front and back loops of the last stitch. Make the hook go to the front of your work. Pull the working yarn until the last stitch is undone. The hook stops us from unraveling more than what we need to change colors and make strive first. We need to work our last stitch again, but not all the way to the end. You'll see what I mean in a second because we need to increase here. Insert your hook into the same stitch as the last stitch, yarn over and pull up a look. Now the front part. Grab the yarn in the second color. I'm using light green. Fold it over your index finger of your non dominant hand. Make the hook go under the green yarn and pull it through the loops on the hook, completing the single crochet. As you can see, the last stitch is now all gray. Now we can continue working with the green yarn and make our stripe, leave the gray yarn For now, don't do anything to it. We will be needing it later to complete the body of the bird. Grab the tail of the green yarn with your non dominant hand and keep it on top of the previous round. While we work the next few stitches on run seven, we find a new abbreviation. Let's bring up our abbreviation chart and we see that it means slip stitch. So for the seventh round with the second color one slip stitch and 23 single crochet at the end, we should have 24 stitches to work a slip stitch, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over. Make sure the tail of the yarn is on top of the previous thrown. Pull up, look and pull it through the loop on the hook. If the gray single crochet becomes a little loose, don't worry, just pull the gray yard a little bit until it's perfect. Again, place your stitch marker in the first stitch and continue to work. Single crochet one on each stitch to the end of the run work the first five to four stitches over the end of the green yarn. Working over the end of the green yarn secures it while we're working and we no need to come back to it later to secure it. At the end of round seven, you should have 24 stitches. At this point you can hide the tail from the magic ring inside the bird's head. 48th round work 24 single crochets all the way around. Make sure to mark the first stitch and complete the last single crochet of the round with the gray yarn. I'll wait for you there to make the last stitch. Insert your hook into the next stitch yarn over and pull up a loop with the green yard. Grab the gray yarn yarn over with the gray yarn and pull it through the tulp on the hook. You should have 24 stitches in this room. If the last green single crochet becomes a little loose, just pull the green yarn a little to tighten it a little bit. Continue to work with the gray yarn, just like before. We need to start a new color with a slip stitch on round nine work. One slip stitch, one increase. Five single crochet and one increase. Then one single crochet plus one increase. Repeat two times after that work, eight single crochet to finish the round work, one increase plus one single crochet. Repeat two times at the end, you should have 30 stitches to slip stitch. Insert your hook into the next stitch, the yarn over. Pull up a loop and pull through the loop on the hook. I'll make the rest of the round with you. We already have our slip stitch, now we need one increase. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over, Pull up a Look yarn over, Pull through the two loops on the hook to insert into the same stitch. Yarn over, pull up a look yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook. Next we need to make five single crochet into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull two, and that's the single crochet. One more makes four, we need one more into the next stitch, yarn over, pull over 21, increase 12345, single crochet. Now we need to increase again into the next stitch, yarn over and pull upon, pull through two into the same stitch over and pull pull two. Next we need to work a group of one single C plus one increase. Repeat two times, one single Ce, increase into the same stitch to increase. Next one single crochet and one increase. Now we need eight single crochet into the next stitch. Over and pull now one single crochet, seven to go, 23 single crochet, we need five more, 45671 more to go, and eight. Let's check 12345678, single crochet. Next we need to work a group of one increase plus one single crochet repeat two times into the next stitch to increase yarn over and pull up a loop over, pull through two into the same stitch to increase over and pull up a loop over. Pull through two n one single crochet into the next over, pull up a loop over to increase and to end the round. One single crew shape. We don't need the green yard anymore for the body. We need to secure it on the inside. Make the loop on the hook looser by pulling it up and letting the yard run, take the hook from the loop. To avoid our work from unraveling wildly, secure the green yard, Place the stitch marker on the loop. And I also like to go under both loops of the first stitch so that our work is extra protected no matter how much you pull on it. It's just want to unravel to secure the green yard, turn your work around and get the gray yarn out of the way. Grab the green yarn and cut it, leaving a tail of more or less 10 centimeters, about 4 ". Tread the tail on an embroidering needle. Here's a neat trick to a thread your needle. Grab the end of the yarn between your thumb and the next finger. Pull it until you can see it. Place the eye of the needle between your fingers on top of where the tail should be. Wiggle the embroidering needle between your fingers while at the same time pushing it down. Just like that, the yarn goes through the eye of the needle. I'll show it again. Place the yarn between your thumb and index finger. Pull it until you can see it. Place the eye of the needle between your fingers where the tail should be. Wiggle the embroidery needle between your fingers and at the same time push it down. Never fails. I like to secure my tails on the horizontal loops at the back of the single cro, make the needle go under one of the horizontal loops and pull, make it go under the same loop again. And pull it gently until you have a loop. Make the needle go inside the loop from the back and pull it, creating a knot. The tail is secured. The reason we start around with the slip stitch when changing colors is because if we use single crushes, it creates a step where you clearly see where one color ends and the other starts with the slip stitch. That change is smoother. In this lesson, we'll learn how to make the horizontal stripe and now we can continue to work on the birds seeing the next lesson. 8. Rounds 10 and 11: In this lesson, we are going to work on round 10.11 of the bird's body. And I'll share some insights you can give shape to your amigo By the end of round nine, we can already start to see the body taking shape for round ten. Work two single crochet one increase. Five single crochet one increase. Next work a group of two single crochets plus one increase. Repeat two times. After that work nine single crochet and then a group of one increase plus two single crochet repeat two times At the end, you should have 36 stitches. Now that the green yarn is secured, we can take the stitch marker from the first stitch and the loop. Place the hook back in the loop to start the tenth round. First work to single crochet into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook. Don't forget to place your stitch marker on the first stitch into the next stage. Yarn over, pull up, no increase into the next stage. Yarn over, pull, pull yarn over pro to increase, go into the same stay over two. Next we need five single crochet, 123r and 51, increase into the next stage. Over and pull yarn over, pull two to increase, go into the same stage, yarn over and pull yarn over, pull two. Next we need a group of two single crochet. Increase. Repeat two times, one single crochet, two single crochet. Now the increase into the same stitch to increase one more time. One single crochet, two single crochet, and one increase into the same stitch to increase 12 single crochet increase, 12 increase. Next we need nine single crochet into the next stitch. Over poop, no pull, 21, single crochet, 23456. We need three more, 78, the last 19. Now we need to work a group of one increase plus two single crochet repeat two times. Next we need one increase into the next stitch over two, into the same stitch over 22 single C one. 21 increase into the same stitch to increase and to finish the round two single 1.2 At the end, you should have 36 stitches. I want to continue to grow the back a bit more to the outside. For round 11 work three single crochet one increase. Five single crochet one increase. And to finish the round 26 single crochet. At the end of this round, you'll have 38 stitches. To start round 11, we need three single crochet into the next stitch, yarn over and pull Opo yarn over. Pull through two, place the stitch marker on the first stitch, one single crochet, two single crochet, and the last 13 single crochet. Now we need one increase into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull, pour, increase. Go into the same stitch, yarn over and pull pour two. Now we need five single crochet, 123-51-2345 Next we need one increase into the next stage over put two increase going to the same stage. Now next we need two single crochet. To the end we need 26 single crochet 123 45e 678-910-1112 1314, 1516, 1718. 1920 we need six more. 21, 222-032-4205 and the last 126. Because we only increase two times at the end, you should have 38 stitches. Meet me on the next lesson to continue to work on the body of the word. 9. Rounds 12 and 13: In this lesson, we are going to work on rounds 12.13 of the bird's body. I want to keep extending the back of the bird so we are going to keep increasing at the back To count the rounds, just count the rings around your work. Be careful not to turn your work too much while you count or it might give you a false result. Trying to count the rounds going up as straight as you can count with me. 123 456-789-1011 for around 12 work four single crochet one increase. Seven single crochet one increase To finish this round work, 25 single crochet to the end. At the end, you should have 40 stitches to start, we need four single. Into the next stitch over, pull through the two loops on the hook. One single crochet. Place the stitch marker in your first stitch into the next stitch over pullover. Pull two over pull 23 single crochet. One more single C. Now we need one increase into the next stitch over pullover two to increase go into the same stitch, pull two, next we need seven single crochet into the next stitch. Over pull, pull 21, single crochet, 234561. More seven. Now one increase into the next stitch, you put two into the same stitch. Two Next we need 25 single crochet to the end. 12345678. 910-11-1213 I don't like this stitch. It's too loose. Let me show you how we can fix it. Take the hook from the loop, place it between the front and back loops of the stitch. Pull the working yarn, and it comes undone. I'll show it again. Take the hook from the loop inserted between the front and back loops of the stitch just made. Pull the working yarn and the stitch is unraveled. Repeat your stitch and continue to work as usual. If you need to count the stitches from your last increase, 123 456-789-1011 we need 14 more. Keep working one single crochet on each single crochet of the previous round. I'll come back just before the end of this round to finish it with you only two single crochet is left, 24. Into the next stitch, Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two. 25 single crochet. At the end of this round, you should have 40 stitches. For round 13 work, five single crochet one increase. Seven single crochet one increase to finish the round work 26, single crochet to the end. At the end, you should have 42 stitches. Start round 13 with five single crochet. Take the stitch marker from the first stitch of the previous round. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over pull, loop yarn over pull through the two loops on the hook. One single crochet, the stitch marker In the first stitch of this round, we need for more single crushes. This one makes 234, the last 15. Now increase into the next stop to go into the same stitch two. Next we need seven single crochet into the next stitch over pullout one single crochet, 23,456.7 Here you can see clearly how the increases are extending the back of the bird to the outside. Now we need one increase into the next stitch to into the same stitch over, pull, pull over, pull two. Now we need to single crochet to the end with 26 single crochet 1234. Continue to single crochet on each single crochet of the previous round. I'll come back just before the end of this round to finish the round with you three more single crochet to finish the round. This one x 24 25 single crochet, last one into the next stitch, yarn over pull polo yarn over pull T 226 single crochet. At the end of this round, you should have 42 stitches. Next we are going to learn how to decrease you there. 10. How to Decrease: In this lesson, we are going to learn how to decrease and continue to learn how to read written crochet patterns. The goal now is to make the front of the bird curve to the inside to start shaping its tummy. On round 14, we find a new abbreviation, deck two. If we take a look at our abbreviation charts, we can see that it means decreasing using the invisible decrease method. Catching two stitches for round 14 work six single crochet, one increase seven single crochet, one increase six single crochet. Next work a group of one invisible decrease plus one single crochet. Repeat seven times. At the end, you should have 37 stitches. Start round 14 with six single crochet. Go into the next stitch. Over, pull, pull over, pull through two. Place the stitch marker in the first stitch of the round one single crochet into the next stitch. No, pull, pull you 22 single crochet, three single crochet F 5.6 Now the increase in the next stitch over two into the same stitch to increase over pullover. Put two. Next we need seven single crochet 123, we need three more. 56, last 17. Now we need one increase into the next stage. No pull, pull two into the same stitch to increase Novo. No two. Next work six single crochets, 12,345.6 Next we need to work one group of one invisible decrease plus one single crochet. Repeat seven times to make an invisible decrease. Insert your hook into the next stitch. But this time, catch the front loop. Only the hook is between the front and back loop. Repeat for the next stitch, insert your hook into the next stitch. Catching only the front loop yarn over, pull the yarn through the front loops of both stitches to pull up a loop yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook. We took two stitches and turn them into one. This is our first invisible decrease. Now we need one single crochet next. Invisible decrease. Insert your hook behind the front loop of the next stitch, and again behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull the yarn through the two loops to pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 21, invisible decrease, one single crochet, and one invisible decrease again behind the front loop of the next stitch. Again behind the front loop of the next stitch y the two loops to pull up a loop, yarn over, pull 21 single crochet, one invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch, and again behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through the loops to pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 21 single crochet on E. Invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch. Behind the front loop of the next stitch over, pull the two loops to pull up a loop. Pull through 21, single one invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch, behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through the two loops. Yarn over, pull through 21, single crochet, one invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch, Again, behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through the two loops to pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through the Tu loops on the hook to finish the round one single crew shape. The decreases curved the shape of the Mugu to the inside. That's why for now I'm only decreasing on this side to make the tummy of the bird join me in the next lesson to continue our work on the bird's body. 11. Rounds 15 and 16: Let's dive right in and complete rounds 15.16. Of the body of the word on round 15 were two, single crochet is plus one invisible decrease, Repeat two times seven single crochet, one invisible decrease, plus two single crochet. Repeat four times to end the round work one invisible decrease, and at the end, four single crochet. At the end of round 15, you should have 30 stitches to start round 15, work two single crochet. Insert your hook into the next stitch over. Pull over 21 single crochet. Place your stitch marker in the first stitch of the first strong two single crochet. Now the invisible decrease. Insert your hook behind the front loop of the next stitch. Insert your hook behind the front loop of the next stitch. Will they yarn through the two loops? Yarn yarn through the two loops on the hook. Two more single crochet 12, and now one invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch and behind the front loop of the next stitch over the two loops, through the two loops on the hook. Next we need seven single on E23 456.7 Next we need one invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch, behind the front loop of the next stitch. Over pull through the two loops over pull through both loops on the hook. Two single 121 invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch and behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through both loops, Yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook. Two, single crochet 1.21 invisible decrease 12 single crochet, one invisible decrease, two single crochet. We need to work two more groups of one invisible decrease plus two single crochet behind the front loop. Behind the front loop again, y through both loops. Pull the two loops on the hook. Two, single cro. And two, invisible decrease behind the front loop, again behind the front loop, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook. Two single crochet 1.2 Now we need to work one more invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch. Behind the front loop of the next yarn over, pull through both loops. Yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook. To finish the round work for single crashes, 123. And at the end, you should have 30 stitches. Concentrating the decreases on the front of the bird makes the tummy curve even more to the inside. On round 16, you are starting to close the body of the bird. Round 163, single crochet plus one invisible decrease, repeat six times to the end of the run. At the end, you should have 24 stitches to start round 163, single crochet plus one invisible decrease. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up y. Pull through the two loops on the hook. One single crochet. Don't forget to place your stitch marker into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull polo yarn over. Pull through both loops on the hook to single crochet, three single crochet. Now the invisible decrease behind the front loop of the next stitch. Again, behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through both loops. Yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook. Repeat this group of three single crochet plus one decrease six times to the end of the round. I'll see you back at the end of the round to work. The last group with you to finish the round, work for the six times three single crochet plus one invisible decrease, single crochet, two single crochet. We need one more. Three single crochet, and now the invisible decrease in search your hook behind the front loop of the next stitch. Again, behind the front loop of the next stitch over the yarn. Through both loops, you are the two loops on the hook. At the end, you should have 24 stitches. As you can see, the body of the bird is starting to close evenly on all sides. Now it's a good time to place the safety eyes, and that's what we'll do in the next lesson. If you're using crochet eyes, you can skip the next lesson. The crochet eyes will be attached to the body later. Oh, and if you have any questions, you can leave them in the discussions below. 12. Placing the Eyes: At this time, I like to place the safety eyes on the bird. It is important to note that safety eyes should not be used for a Megumi meant for babies or small children that mouth their toys. The safety eyes are hard and can hurt the child's mouth and can be a choking hazard. When making a Megumi for young children, I like to use baby safe yarn. And I use crocheted eyes. I embroider the ice directly into the toy to ensure it remains completely soft and safe for the child. I like to attach the crochet eyes when I have all the other pieces ready. So if you're using crochet eyes, you can skip ahead to the next lesson. Just like before, let's secure the yarn so that our work doesn't unravel. While we place the safety ice, loosen the loop, take the hook from the loop, place the loop on the stitch marker and close the stitch marker to secure it before placing the safety is I like to experiment with their placement with sewing pins. That way you won't be left with a big gap between your stitches if you decide to move the ice for the bird. I like to place the ice between rounds 4.5 and with six stitches between them. Place the sewing pins where you would like the ice to be and see if you like their placement. Move them around until you're satisfied the safety eyes of two pieces. The eye itself with the rounded front, which is what's going to be visible on the outside, and the peg that will go through the fabric of Amigo. Then we have the washer which is going to be on the inside of a Megumi and it's what keeps the safety eye secured in place to secure the ice. Place the washer on the safety ice pack on the inside of the bird with the flat side turn to the fabric of the bird, all the safety eye with the index and middle finger on the washer on either side of its hole. And your thumb on the round part of the safety eye to secure the safety ice. Push the thumb and fingers together. Now it's time to place the safety ice. Carefully Take one of the sawing pins out and replace it with the safety eye. Push the peg of the eye to the inside between two stitches on the birds body. Repeat for the other side. Take the sewing pin out and place the safety eye in its place. Make sure you're happy with the placement of the eyes because once secured they won't come out. Grab a washer and place it on the peg of the safety eye with a flat part of the washer. Turn to the wall of the Amiga Rumi. Place the index and middle fingers on the washer on either side of the peg, and your thumb on the outside on the eye. Push them together until you hear several clicking sounds. Make sure that the washer is right up against the fabric of the bird. Repeat for the other eye. Grab a washer. Place it on the peg of the safety with the flat part turned to the wall of the. Place your index and middle finger on either side of the peg on top of the washer. And your thumb on the round part of the eye. Push your fingers together until you hear the clicking sounds. Make sure that the washer went through all the ridges on the peg and that it's right up against the fabric of your Megumi. The eyes are secured and it will be nearly impossible to take them out. Now I can continue to work on the body of the bird, working on the last remaining rounds and stuffing the body of the bird. 13. Stuffing and Last Rounds: After placing the safety eyes, I like to begin to stuff the body of the bird. After that, we'll be working on the last throngs of the body of the bird. Grab a handful of polyphyl and place it inside the bird. Use your fingers to reach every crevice of the body of the bird. Reinforce the stuffing around the eyes. And make sure that the pegs of the ice inside the bird pushed up or down by the stuffing for that might distort the face of the bird. I like to fluff up the poly Phil before placing it inside my Emmy. I feel it makes them softer and not so compact. Make sure to force the poly Phil into the edge of the bird. Sometimes the stuffing resists going into smaller places so I use my fingers to make sure they are well stuff as we go into the body, start to push the stuffing to the edges of the bird to accentuate its shapes. Stuff up to the last worked run, I like my amigo me to be a bit firmer but not too much stuff. The body of the bird until you're wrapper with it, grab your 3.2 millimeter hook to finish the body of the bird. For on 17, work a group of two single crochets plus one invisible decrease. Repeat six times at the end, you should have 18 stitches. I'll make the first repetition with you. First, we need to single crochet. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over polo. Polo yarn over. Pull through the two loops on the hook. One single crochet. Place your stitch marker in the first stitch into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up, look yarn over. Pull through the two loops on the hook. Two single crochet. Now the invisible decrease. Insert your hook behind the front loop of the next stitch. Again, behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through two loops. Yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook to avoid grabbing the stuffing with your hook. Place the index finger of your non dominant hand behind the stitches you are working into. Repeat from the beginning five more times at the end, should have 18 stitches On round 18 work a group of one single crop plus one invisible decrease. Repeat six times at the end, you should have 12 stitches. First we need a single crochet into the next stitch, yarn over, pull a loop yarn over. Pull through the two loops on the hook. Don't forget to place your stitch marker into the first stitch. Next, we need one invisible decrease. Insert your hook behind the front loop of the next stitch. Again, behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through the two loops. Yarn over, pull, threw the two loops on the hook. Repeat from the beginning five more times. At the end, you should have 12 stitches. At this point, you can reinforce the stuffing a bit more. Push the stuffing to the edges of the body of the bird and to any areas you feel are a bit empty. Once you satisfied with the stuffing, continue to work on the body of the bird. For the last round, round 19, work six invisible decreases all the way to the end. At the end, you should have six stitches. Insert your hook behind the front loop of the next stitch. Again, behind the front loop of the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through two loops, Yarn over, Pull through the two loops on the hook. Place the stitch marker on the first stitch. Repeat from the beginning five more times at the end. So six stitches. If you feel like you need to stuff the body a little bit more, you can use the end of a thicker hook to make it go through the hole at the bottom. Keep in mind that the more stuffing you put inside your mega room, the more chances it has to shoot through the stitches. Now it's time to close our Amigo, we'll do that in the next lesson. See you there. 14. Closing: Let's close the bird. Before closing the bird, we need to leave a tail long enough to attach the key chain. If you don't want to turn your bird into a key chain, you can leave a tail of more or less 10 centimeters or 4 ". To determine the length of the tail, you need to leave for the key chain first loop where the hook was with your thumb so that your work doesn't unravel. Keep your thumb at the bottom of the bird and your index finger at its top. Grab the working yarn and wrap it around your index finger and thumb, alternating between them. The idea here is to have a length of yarn that is six times the height of the bird. Repeat until you have that cut the yarn. Pull the loop until the end of the yarn becomes loose and the loop is undone. Take the sage maker out, we don't need it anymore. Thread the long tail into an embroidery needle. Close Amigo, you were in the round. Catch the front loops of all the stitches of the last strung. Place your needle behind the front loop of the next stitch. Pull the yarn gently repeat for the remaining five stitches, 2,345.6 Pull the yarn tightly until the hole at the bottom is completely closed. To finish off the body, we are going to use one of the loops that go into the center. Like the ones, ideally use the one closest to where you ended. Insert the needle under the loop, pull the yarn, go under the same loop again and pull gently until you have a loop. Insert the needle into the loop and pull, creating a not. Insert your needle into the center of the last throne and make it come out at the center of the first throne. You can use a long needle if you have it. Pull the yarn tightly until the knot slides into the body of the bird. Leave the long tail. We'll be needing it later to attach the key chain. If you don't want to make a key chain out of the bird, make the needle come out anywhere in the body between two stitches. Depress the body of the bird right next to the yarn and cut it flush with the body. The yarn will disappear into the bird. The body is finished and now we're going to make the tail, say in the next lesson. 15. Making the Tail - Part 1: In this lesson, we are going to start working on the tail. To make the tail, you'll need a 3.2 millimeter hook and the medium weight yarn in gray. In the beginning of the tail, we find new information and abbreviations. We can see that it says that the tail is worked in rows. This means that we'll be working back and forth over the previous row, just like a printer at the end of the other. For the tail we have the information leave a long tail at the beginning. That just means we need to start working further down the yarn. Instead of starting right at the end of the arm. In the first line for the instructions, we can see CH seven. Let's bring up the abbreviation table and we can see that CH means chain. Before we work the first row, we need to chain seven. In other words, work a chain with seven stitches. To start the chain, we first need a slip knot. To make a slip knot, grab the yarn, place it your index and middle finger from the front to the back, and bring it to the over the index finger. We'll need a long tail of yarn at the base of the tail. Pull the end of the yarn until it's more or less 30 centimeters or 12 " long. Secure the yarn with your thumb and fingers. Place your hook under the yarn that's on top of your index finger coming from the left to the right. Turn your hook until it's in its natural position. Yarn over, grab the yarn that's on the hook, and pull up a loop. You just made one slip. Not now, we need a chain of seven stitches to chain yarn over. Pull one chain yarn over, Pull, pull two chains, three chains, 4561 more, seven to come, the stitches on the chain. Ignore the slip knot and the loop on the hook, we have 123,456.7 for the first row of the tail work. One single crochet into the second chain from the hook, plus five more single crochet to the end of the chain. At the end, you left six stitches. Because the row starts with a single crochet, we need to leave a chain free to make up for the height of the single crochet. If we were to work into the first chain, the first single crochet would be all scrunched up. If we were to start with the taller stitch, we will need to begin working further down the chain. Even though we start with a chain of seven, we'll end up with six single crochets at the end. At the end of each row, we need to prepare for the next one. For that, we need to chain one and turn. When working in rows, I like to make the first row in the back bumps of the chain. The back bumps are these vertical dashes on the back of the chain. Insert your hook under the second bump of the chain. Yarn over, pull, pull yarn over. Pull through the Tu loops on the hook. One single crochet under the next bump, yarn over, pull, pull yarn over, and pull through the tulp on the hook. Two, single crochet. Repeat for the remaining chains. At the end, you should have six stitches. Three, single crochet or single crochet. We need two more. Be careful not to catch any extra. Yard five, single crochet. Last 16 single crochet. This knot at the end is the slip knot don't work into it. This is the reason why I like to work into the back bumps of the chain. The bottom is as pretty as the top showing the viz of the chain. In this case, they are going to be iden when assembled. But I just wanted to show you that you can have both sides. Betty, at the end of each row, we need to chain one and turn northward to prepare for the next row. This chain on E at the end is known as the turning chain and is not included in the final number of stitches. The turning chain moves us up to the next row while maintaining the height of the stitches. To turn your work, simply drop it to the back, turning it from right to left. For the second row work, one increase, four single crochet, and one increase. Finally, chain one and turn. Because we are increasing two times, we have two more stitches than before, making it eight stitches. At the end of row two, insert your hook into the first stitch over one yarn over pull loop. Pull through the two loops on the hook to make one single crochet. To increase, insert your hook into the same stitch and work another single crochet. Next work for single crochet 12, The and F on the last stitch increase. Again, insert your hook into the last stitch of row one. You pull through the two loops on the hook into the same stitch over yarn over and pull through two. The increases at the edges of the tail make it wider, giving it that classic birds tail look chain one at the end. In turn to prepare for the next row, join me in the next lesson to finish up the tail. 16. Making the Tail - Part 2: Okay, let's finish the tie. In the third row of the tail, we find new abbreviations, DC, DC. If we check our abbreviations chart, we can see that HDC means double crochet, DC means double crochet. For row three, we need two single C12, double crochet, two double crochet, 12 double crochet, and two single crochet chain one. And turn to prepare for the next row. At the end, we'll have eight stitches. Start the third row with two single crochet, one single crochet, two single crochets. Now to work a half double crochet, the first thing we need to do is yarn over. After that, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Now we have three loops on the hook, Yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook. As you can see, that extra yarn over at the beginning gives the half double crochet a little bit of height. Next we need to double crochets to work a double crochet yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull, pull look yarn over. And here is where it differs from the half double crochet. Pull through only two loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through the last two loops on the hook. This difference makes the double crochet even taller than the half double crochet, double crochet yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, Yarn over. Pull up a loop, yarn over, Pull through two loops on the hook, yarn over, and pull through the last two loops on the hook. Next we need one half double crochet yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch yarn over and pull up a loop yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook. To finish this row work, two more single crochet, 12 single crochet starting and ending with shorter stitches. And using taller stitches in the middle creates a curve to the top edge of the tail that I think looks more natural and pretty chain one in turn to prepare for the next row, four for one increase, six half double crochet, one increase chain one in turn, because we increase two times, we have two more stitches, which means we'll have ten stitches at the end of four to start work one single crochet into the first. To increase, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over. Pull op yarn over and pull through two. Now we need six double crochets, yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, all the loops on the hook. One half double crochet over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over. Pull over through all the loops on the hook. Two, half double crochet yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull polo yarn over. Pull through all the loops on the hook. Three, half double crochet yarn over, search your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull poo yarn. Pull through all the loops on the hook, yarn over, Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull polo yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook. We need one half double crochet yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over. Pull up yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook. Six, half double crochet. Now we need to increase with single crochet on the last stitch, one single crochet. And to increase, insert your hook into the same stitch yarn over, pull, pull through the two loops on the hook chain on E, and turn to prepare for the next row on row five. Work two single crochet, two double crochets, two double crochets, two double crochets, and finally two single crochet at the end web and stitches. First we need two single crochet, 12 single crochet. Next we need to have double crochets over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over. Pull yarn over. Pull through all the loops on the hook. One mark yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over. Pull up yarn over. Pull through all the loops on the hook. Next we need to double crochets, yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over. Pull up yarn over. Pull through two loops on the hook, Yarn over, and pull through the last two loops on the hook. One double crochet, We need one more yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, Pull up yarn over. Pull through two loops on the hook, yarn over, and pull through the last two loops on the hook. Now we need to have double crochets, yarn over. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull polo yarn over. Pull through all the loops on the hook, yarn over, Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull polo yarn over. Pull through all the loops on the hook. To finish this row, we need two single crochet, one to take the hook from the loop. And cut a tail of about 20 centimeters or 8 ". Pull the loop until it becomes undone and thread the tail on your embroidery needle. Insert the needle under the loops that go around the side of the tail of the bird and threw the knot from the initial chain. We'll secure this tail later while assembling the bird. Don't talk too much on the yarn. You don't misshapen the tail. The tail is finished, and on the next lesson we'll make the wings. 17. Making the Wings - Part 1: For the wings, we'll be combining working in rounds and rows. We'll start working in rounds and then switch to rows. For the wings, we will need a 3.5 millimeter hook and the green medium weight yarn to make the wing. We'll need to leave a long tail at the beginning, just like we did for the tail. We'll need to start working further down the yarn instead of right at the beginning. Leave a tail of more or less party centimeters are 16 ". To start the wings work six single cross into the magic ring for round one. At the end will have 6 ". Remember to start working a bit further down the yarn to make the magic ring, place the yarn between your index and middle finger, with the working yarn going to the back. Wrap the free end of the yarn to times around your index finger. Hold the yarn between your index and middle fingers. Bring your working yarn to the front over your fingers, all the working yarn with your thumb. Place your hook under all the loops that we formed around the fingers. Catch the last one with your hook and pull it under the other two yarn over and pull up a look. Take the magic ring from your finger. Work six, single crochet into the magic ring. Insert your hook into the magic ring. Yarn over, pull up a loop yarn over, and pull through the two loops on the hook. One single crochet, 23 or five, last 16, take the hook from the loop. If you want, you can place a stitch marker on the loop so that your work doesn't unravel. Turn your work upside down with the loops from the magic ring facing you. Pull gently on the tail from the beginning. Notice which of the loops is moving and becoming smaller. Grab it close to the tail of the magic ring and pull it towards you. Beginning to close the magic ring. Pull it as tight as you can, grab the tail and pull it firmly. Closing the magic ring completely, place your hook back into the loop and pull the working yarn gently to close the loop around it. The end, we have six stitches. For the second round, I want to increase the size of my circle, but not too much. Instead of increasing on all the available stitches like you normally would, I'm going to increase on every other stitch. For round two, work one single crochet plus one increase. Repeat three times to the end of the round because we increase three times at the end, we'll have nine stitches. Insert your hook into the next stitch. You are no burn, pull, pull yarn over and pull the yarn through the tulips on the hook. One single crochet. Remember to place your stitch marker on the first stitch of the round. Now the increase one single crochet into the next stitch. And to increase one more single crochet into the same stitch. Repeat from the beginning of this round, two more times. At the end we'll have nine stitches, one single crochet, one increase, and for the last time, one single crochet. One increase. From now on, we'll switch to work in rows, which just means that we'll start working back and forth with a chain one at the end. Instead of working all around the previous rounds. Four rows, three and forward. Three single crochet and chain one in turn at the end. At the end of each of these rows, you'll have three stitches. Take off your stitch marker in the single crochet. In the next three stitches, one single crochet, place your stitch marker back into this stitch. Two single crochet and three single crochet chain one. In turn four work three single crochet 123 chain. One turn on five Avenue abbreviation two G. Let's bring up our abbreviation chart and we can see that it means single crochet two together, which is just another way of decreasing four row five work. One single crochet two together and one single crochet chain. One enter at the end. At the end we'll let two stitches. We are decreasing the number of stitches to make the point of the wing. To make a single crochet together, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over. Pull yarn over and pull the yarn. Roll the loops on the hook. One single crochet, two together. We took two single crochet and turned them into one single crochet, into the last stitch chain one. In turn, to prepare for the next row, far row six, work one single crochet two together. At the end you left one stitch. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull poop. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull a loop yarn over. And pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook, one single crochet together. I prefer to use this method of decreasing on flat pieces because the stitch looks good from the back and the front. Unlike the invisible decrease that only looks good from the front, Don't finish off. In the next lesson, we are going to finish the edges of the wings and make them look pretty. 18. Making the Wings - Part 2: In this lesson, we are going to continue from my left off. In the last lesson, we are going to work around the edge of the wing and give it a nice finished look. To finish the wings work one single crochet on top of row six on the edge work three single crochet, one increase, two single crochet plus one increase, repeat two times from the two single crochet work. Three single crochet on the other side of the wing and one single crochet in the same space as the first single crochet to make the little tip of the wing chain and work one slip stitch on the third chain From the hook slip stitch to the first stitch. Join Vince to start in one in turn and work on single crochet on top of row six. Insert your hook under the top loops of the single crochet two together of row six yarn over and pull up a loop yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook. If you want, place a stitch marker on the single crochet so it's easier to find later. Now we are going to single crochet all around the wing. Turn your work on inside so it's easier to work on the edge. For our first single crochet on the edge, we are going to insert our hook between the V in the front of the single crochet from row five. Make sure to catch the loop on the back as well, Yarn over, pull up a loop. Be careful not to pull extra strands of yarn yarn over and pull through the tulops on the hook. The next single crochet we are going to work between row 5.4 Insert your hook between the two rows, yarn over and pull a pollo yarn over and pull through the tulp on the hook. And the third one between the V in the front of the last single crochet on row three. Then on top of the available stitches from round two, work one increase to increase work one single crochet into the first available stitch of round two, another single crochet into the same stitch. Next two single crochet plus one increase repeat two times, one single crochet, two single crochet increase one single crochet into the next stitch, one single crochet into the same stitch as the previous 11 single crochet, two single crochet, and now one increase one single crochet into the next stitch. And to increase one single crochet into the same stitch as before. Next work one single crochet, 3-4 Next, between rows 4.5 right at the base of the single crochet two together. And then between rows 5.6 Finally, work one single crochet into the same space as the first single crochet we made at the start. To finish chain three over polo Poll one chain over and pull polo two chains. Polo pouch. Slip stitch into the back pump of the third chain from the hook. Insert your hook into the back pump of the chain yarn over and pull up a loop. Pull the yarn through the loop on the hook slip stitch to the first single crochet. Insert your hook under both loops of the first single crochet yarn over. Pull up a loop and pull the yarn through the loop on the hook. Take the hook from the loop and cut the yarn, leaving a tail of more or less 10 centimeters or 4 " thread in on your embroidery needle and needle join. Insert your needle under the top loops of the second stitch to the left pull Gently insert your needle between the loops of the stitch from where the yarn came from. Insert the needle between the top loops of the stitch. Test directly under this one. Pull gently until it's the size of the top loops of the other stitches. Turn the wing around, finish off, and weaving ends in the back to secure the yarn. Make the needle go under a loop in the back and pull the yarn. Make the needle go under the same loop again and pull gently until you have a loop. Make the needle go into the center of the loop and pull, creating a knot and securing the arn. Make the needle go under a few loops in the back to weave in the ends, pull the yarn. If you want to go under a few more loops, cut the remaining tail and be careful not to cut your work. Go back to the tail from the beginning and weave it in in the back, making it come out at the top of the wings. Make two wings. In the next lesson, we'll make the big. 19. Making the Beak: To make the beak, you'll need your 2.2 millimeter hook and the lightweight yard in yellow. For the first round of the beak work, six single crochets into the magic ring. At the end, you'll have six stitches. First we need a magic ring. Place the yarn between your index and middle fingers with the working yarn going to the back. Wrap it around the index finger two times, and bring the working yarn to the front. Over the finger, the yarn with your thumb, grab the 2.2 millimeter hook and make it go under all the loops on your fingers. Grab the last one with your hook and pull it under the other two yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook. Take the magic ring from your finger works single crochet into the magic ring. Insert your hook into the magic ring, yarn over, pull a loop yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook. One single crochet to single crochet, 345.6 To close the magic ring, pull the tail of the magic ring gently to see which of the loops starts to close. Grab the one that was closing next to the tail. Pull it towards you to close the other loop. Grab the tail and close it as tight as you can. On round two, work one signal crochet plus one increase. Repeat three times from the beginning. At the end of this round, you nine stitches. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over. Pull up a loop yarn over and pull through the tuloops on the hook. Place your stitch marker on the first stitch. Work a single crochet into the next stitch. And to increase work a single crochet into the same stitch as before. Repeat from the beginning two more times. At the end, you'll have nine stitches. For round three work two single crochet plus one increase. Repeat three times from the beginning. At the end, you'll let two stitches. Take the stitch marker from the first stitch. Insert your hook into the first stitch of the previous round yarn. Pull yarn over and pull through the tulp on the hook, One single crochet. Place the stitch marker on the stitch in search your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull loop yarn over, and pull through the two loops on the hook. Two single crochet. Now they increase one single crochet into the next stitch. To increase work, one single crusade into the same stitch. Repeat from the beginning two more times. At the end you left 12 stitches. Take off the stitch marker and slip stitch to the first stitch of one tree. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over. Pull a loop. And pull through the loop on the hook. At the end of the beak, we need to leave a tel long enough to sew it to the body. Here is a neat trick to make sure you always leave a tail long enough. Hook from the loop and grab the working yard. Wrap the working yarn loosely around the edge of the opening and double that length. Cut the tail a bit further down the yarn, it always works. Thread the tail on your embroidering needle. Place the yarn between your thumb and index fingers. Pull it until you can see it. Place the eye of the needle between your fingers and wiggle the needle between your fingers. It now needle join. And leave the tail to needle join. Insert your needle under both loops of the second stitch to the left. Pull the yarn. Insert your needle back into the stitch from where the yarn came from. Between the top loops of the stitch as directly under this one, pull the yarn until the stitch is the same size of the top loops of the other stitches. The slip stitch and needle joint bring the height of the stitches down, making the edge of the big more uniform and neat to shape. The big find increases on the last run and pinch them, making a triangle at the base. Push the edges to the inside, flattening them to create a three sided pyramid, either tail from the magic ring inside the beak. Next I'm going to show you how you can make the eyes using yard seeing in the next lesson. 20. Making Crochet Eyes: For the eyes. You'll need a 2.2 millimeter hook and lightweight yarn in black and white. I'm using light blue yarn in the tutorial so it's easier for you to see for round one work for single crochet into the magic ring. At the end, you'll have four stitches to make a magic ring. Place the yarn between your index and middle fingers with the working yarn going to the back. Grab the yarn around the index finger two times, and bring the working yarn to the front over the finger. Grab the working yarn with your thumb. Grab the 2.2 millimeter hook and make it go under all the loops on your fingers. Grab the last one with your hook and pull it under the other two yarn over. And pull through the loop on the hook. Take the magic ring from your finger work for a single crochet into the magic ring. Insert your hook into the magic ring. Yarn over, Pull, pull yarn over, and pull through the two loops on the hook. One single crochet, two single crochet, three single crochet, and four single crochet. Close the magic ring. Pull the tail of the magic ring gently and see which of the loops starts to close. Grab the one that was closing next to the tail. Pull it towards you to close the other loop. Grab the tail and close it as tight as you can. Place the hook back into the loop and slip stitch the first single crochet. Insert your hook into the first stitch of round one yarn over and pull up the loop. Pull the yarn through the loop on the hook. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Undo the loop and thread the yarn on an embroidery needle. Insert the needle under the top. Loops this time of the next stitch to the left and then back into the middle of the stitch from where the yarn comes from. Insert your needle into the middle of the stitch test directly below this one. Pull the yard gently until the stitch is the same size as the top loops of the other stitches. Make two ice with the black yarn to make the shine in the ice current length of 22 centimeters, more or less 9 " of white yarn. Thread it on your embroidery. Neo. Insert your needle from the back, under the top loops of one of the stitches of the eye pull, leaving a bit of tail in the back. Insert your needle under the top loops of the next stitch. Pull the iron, gently secure the tail and get it out of the way. Go back into the first stitch and then back into the second one. And leave the tails, we'll take care of them later. Make two eyes in black with a shining white. In the next lesson, we are going to prepare the bird for assembly. This is also where I'll show you how to attach the Crocs to the body. Let's go. 21. Assembly: Preparations and Crochet Eyes: By now you should have one body, two wings, one tail, one beak. And if you're using crush eyes, two eyes. Before starting to sew all the pieces together, secure them with sewing pins. So you can choose carefully where to attach them. Start with the beak, which is the easiest to place. Place the beak right on top of the stripe and between the eyes and secure it with sewing pins. Then it's the wings. Place them with the top edge right on top of the lowest round of the stripe. And the front of the wing below the center of the eye. Use multiple pins to secure it so it can move around. Repeat for the other ing. Place the tail above the sixth round from the end and on the opposite side of the beak, count the runs from the end, 123456, secure the tail above the sixth run. Look at the bird from above and center the tail in relation to the beak as much as possible. The tail seems a little off to the side in relation to the beak. I'm going to move it a little to the right. Move the pieces around until you're satisfied with their placement and make sure everything is where you want. Before starting to sew, for example, I ended up moving the tail up one round because I thought it'd looked better. If I'm using crush eyes, I like to secure all the other pieces. First, start with a, place it at the center of the face and on top of the stripe from there, place all the remaining pieces. Remember, you can always move them around before sewing them to the body. I'm using the light blue, it's easier for you to see, to find where to place the eyes. Insert a sewing pin right at the center of the eye. Count four runs from the top. And place the pin between the fourth and fifth front of the head. Repeat for the other eye and leave five to six stitches between the eyes. I'm using the blue eye again, it's easier for you to see. First, we need to get the tails from the shine and the beginning of the magic ring. Out of the way thread one of the tails on an embroidery needle. Insert your needle right where you place the sewing pin and make it come out a little bit further between two stitches at the back or side of the head. Keep in mind that we'll need to secure these tails later, so don't make them come out too far from the eye. Repeat for the other two tails. Don't pull on the white tails or the shine of the eye will become smaller. Orient the eye in its final position to place it with a shine on the upper part. And secure it with at least two swing pins so it can move while sewing. Leave the tails for now and let's sew the eye thread the tail left at the end of the magic cream on the embroidery needle. To sow flat pieces like the eye, I like to use the following method. Go under a loop from the body that's right under the edge of the eye. Pull the yarn, go under both loops of the closest stitch on the edge of the eye. Pull the Ar to the outside of the eye, forcing the top loops of the stitch to turn to the outside. Next, go under the top loops of the next stitch to the left and pull the ar. Grab a loop on the body of the bird that's close to the edge of the eye, and pull the yarn. Go back into the same stitch on the eye and pull the yarn to the outside. Go around the rest of the eye, repeating the same steps into the next stitch. Grab a loop from the body into the same stitch. Pull the yarn to the outside. Be careful to not cover the shine of the eye. I like to repeat some stitches at the beginning, especially if the yarn from the eyes is showing a little at the end. Go into one last stitch and make the needle come out between two stitches on the back of the head of the bird. To finish off, go under the loop that's on the left from where the yarn came out and pull the yarn. Go under the same loop. Pull the yarn gently until you have a loop. Insert your needle into the loop and pull, creating a not go into the same space from where the yarn came out of. Make the needle come out on the opposite side and pull, making the knot disappear into the bird. To make sure that the knot is not going to surface, place your needle under the loops of the stitch to the right and of the stitch where the knot was formed. Pull the yarn tightly to slide the knot deeper into the omi, all the yarn and press the body a little. With your fingers are the scissors, Cut the yarn flush with the body of the bird. Be careful not to cut the body of the bird. The tail will be hidden inside the body of the bird. Repeat for all the other tails and the other eye. The rest of the assembly is the same, whether you're using safety or crush the eyes. Next we'll attach the big. See you there. 22. Assembling the Beak: In this lesson, we are going to attach the beak to the bird's face before starting to sew. Place the sewing pin on each corner of the beak to its aerate, its triangular shape at the base, and keep it still. I'd like to start to sew the beak at the bottom, so I make sure the tail is on the bottom of the beak. Thread the tail from the beak on an embroidery needle to start to sow in search of a needle between the last gray round and the first green round between two stitches closest to the tail. Make the needle come out right at the other side of the stitch to the left. Pull the yarn go under the top loops of the stitches on the bag closest to the tail. Insert the needle from the outside to the inside of the beak. Pull the yarn, Insert the needle where the yarn came out from on the body, and make it come out on the other side of the next stitch. Pull the yarn go under the top loops of the next stitch on the Pull the yarn go into the same space where the yarn came out from on the body and make the needle come out on the other side of the stitch under the top loops on the next stitch of the big they are do go up the side of the beak. Pull loops from the body that follow its edge with your needle gravel loop that's right under the edge of the beak. They are go under the top loops of the next stitch of the beak. Pull they are, keep checking the shape of the beak and if the stitches aren't too noticeable and keep following its shape to the top. Grab one loop from the body and again into the top. Loops of the next stitch to the beak repeat to the top. If you need to turn the bird upside down and find it easier to sow the side this way, keep falling the edge on the other side of the Ak, down to the base. Grab a loop from the body that's right under the edge of the beak. Pull the yarn, go under the top loops. On the next stitch of the beak, pull the yarn, Repeat until you get to the last corner of the back at the base. To complete sewing the base, go under the top loops of the corner and pull the yarn. Insert your needle into the space between two stitches and between the gray and the green stripe and make it come out the other side of the stitch under the top loops of the next stitch of the beak. Pull the yard, Repeat until we reach where we began to sew to finish. Officer the needle into the space between the stitches it came out of, and make it come out on the opposite side of the head. Go under the loop at the left from where the yarn came out. Pull the yarn under the same loop again. Pull gently until you form a loop with the yarn. Insert the needle into the loop and pull, forming a not. Insert the needle into the same space where the yarn came out from in the body and make it come out on the opposite side of the head. Pull the yarn ending the nut. This is where we made our knot. You can see that the loop is a little bit pulled to the inside. Insert your needle under the loop to the right and into the loop where we made the knot. Hold the needle and pull the yarn tight so that the knot slips deeper into the body of the bird. The loop where we made the knot, it's back to its normal size. Pull the yarn tightly and cut the yarn with the scissors flush against the body of the bird. The beak is attached next the wings. 23. Assembling the Wings: Now that the beak is attached, it's time to assemble the wings. Thread the tail from the wing on an embroidery needle. Make sure you like the placement of both wings. Before starting to sew for the wings, I like to use the same method of sewing as for the Crocs, but this time we are not going to go all the way around. We are going to sew only the rounded part of the wing to start, catch a loop on the body of the bird, close to the tail from the wing, pull the yard, go under the top loops of the closest stitch from the back to the front of the wing. Pull the yard, go under the top loops of the next stitch to the left on the wing. This time from the front to the back. Pull the yarn, creating an horizontal bar at the top of the stitch. Grab a loop on the body of the bird, under the edge of the wing. Pull the yard, go into the same stitch on the wing, the one where the horizontal bar ends, but now in the opposite direction. Pull the yarn into the next stitch. Pull the yarn, grab a loop or stitch from the body that's directly under the edge of the wing. Pull the yarn into the same stitch on the wing. Pull the yarn, keep repeating this pattern into the next stitch on the wing. Grab a loop or stitch on the body of the bird, back into the same stitch on the wing, this time in the opposite direction. Into the next stitch on the wing, into the body of the bird, into the same stitch on the wing. Keep taking the sewing pins out as you go along and don't need them anymore. I like this method of sewing flat crochet pieces to a guy because it's the sewing stitches blend well with the crochet. I like the little dashes on the edge of the flat piece. Repeat until you are at the bottom of the wing under the point, more or less from where you started, grab a loop on the body of the bird. Go into the same stitch on the wing, then into the next stitch on the wing. Here is a good place to stop, to finish off, lift a part of the wing that wasn't attached and make the needle go into the body of the bird. Close to the last stitch we used to sew the wing, make it come out a little bit further on the side of the body. Between two stitches. Go under the loop that's right at the left from where the yarn came out. Pull the yarn, go under the same loop again. Pull gently until you form a loop with the yarn. Insert the needle into the loop and pull, forming a not. Insert the needle into the same space. The yarn came out from the body and make it come out on the opposite side of the body. Pull the yarn, ending the knot with the needle, grab the stitch where we made the knot. And the one to its right, pull the needle and pull the yarn tight, so the knot slips deeper into the body of the bird. And the loop where we made the knot, it's back to its original size. Pull the yarn tightly and cut the yarn with the scissors flush against the body of the word. One down, one to go repeat for the other wing. In the next lesson, we'll attach the te. 24. Assembling the Tail: The only piece left to assemble is the tail. First we are going to take care of the yarn we left at the end of the tail. Throw the yarn on an embroidery needle. Insert the needle into the body of the bird at the base of the tail, right under the first stitch of the tail. And make it come out a couple of rounds below, pull the yarn gently, be careful not to pull too much or the side of the tail will be scrunched up to secure the yarn. Insert the needle under the loop to the right from where the yarn came out of the body. Insert a needle under the same loop again. Pull gently until you form a loop. Insert the needle into the loop and pull, creating a knot and securing the yarn. If you cut your tail too short, use the end of the needle to go into the loop or stitches. Insert your needle into the body of the bird and make it come out on the opposite side. Pull the yarn, ding the knot. Pull the stitch where we made the knot. And the one to its right with your needle, Pull the yarn, sliding the knot further into the body. Pull the yarn firmly and cut it with scissors flush against the body to sew the tail to the body. Thread the long tail left at the beginning of the tail into an embroidery needle. Insert your needle into the same space where you hit the yarn from the end of the tail and make it come out to the left of the next stitch on the body. Pull the yard, go under the loops of the first stitch of the tail. Pull the yarn go into the same space, the yarn came out from in the body and make the needle come out to the left of the next stitch. Pull the yarn go under the loops of the same stitch on the tail. Pull the yarn go around the same stitch on the body one more time. Pull the are going one more time into the same stitch on the tail, creates a little V that mimics the Croc stitches going into the next stitch on the tail. Pull the A. Be careful to catch the correct stitch on the tail as the next stitch can sometimes be hidden by the sawing stitches with it previously. Go around the next stitch on the body, pull the yarn, go into the same stitch on the tail. Pull the yarn, go around the same stitch on the body, pull the yarn into the next stitch on the tail. Repeat this pattern. Next stitch on the tail. Next stitch on the body. Same stitch on the tail. Same stitch on the body, across the base of the tail. If your yarn gets twisted while completing a stitch, lay it down. Twisted on top of the object you are sewing. Place your thumb on top of the yarn where the stitch is going to form and pull the yarn gently to complete the stitch. The stitch comes out straight. After that, you can take the needle from the yarn and untwist it by running your fingers gently down it, thread the needle again to continue to sew around the same stitch on the body into the next stitch on the tail, a round the next stitch on the body into the same stitch of the tail at the end go into a space between two stitches, One stitch to the side of the tail and make the needle come out right at the other end of the tail where we started to sew, pull, firmly, catch the first stitch from the base of the tail. Again, make the needle go back into the body at the same spot it came out of. Make the needle come out at the other side of the tail. Pull the yarn firmly. If the tail is firmly attached, it's time to finish off. To finish off, go into the same space where the tail came out of the body and make it come out of your runs below. Go under the loop to the left, pull the yarn, go under the same loop again. Pull gently until you form a loop with the yarn. Insert the needle into the loop and pull forming the knot. Insert the needle into the same space. The yarn came out from the body and make it come out on the opposite side of the body. Pull the yarn ending the knot with the needle, grab the stitch where we made the knot. And the one to its right, pull the needle and pull the yarn tight so that the knot slips deeper into the body of the bird. And the loop where we made the knot is back to its normal size, pull the yarn tightly, and cut the yarn with the scissors flush against the body of the bird. This method of sewing makes the tail seem like a continuation of the body of the bird. The bird is finished if you want to turn it into a key chain, see you in the next son. 25. Attaching the Keychain: Now that all the pieces are assembled, start to attach the key chain. To attach the key chain to the bird, you can use a long needle that's longer than the height of the bird. But if you don't have one, you can use a regular embroidery needle. I'm going to use my embroidery needle to show you it can be used. Thread the tail left at the end of the body of the bird On your embroidery needle, grab your key chain and pass the needle through the last link on the chain. Insert the needle into the center of the first round of the body and make it come out in the center of the last round. Here is where the long needle comes in handy. But if you have a regular sized needle, just push down the body of the bird until the visible grab the needle before letting go of the body of the bird. Or it may be lost in sighting, pull the yarn until the key chain is on top of the head. Don't pull too much, or the head will become flattened like this at the bottom. Go under a loop from the last rum, go into the center of the last strong and make it come out at the center of the first strong, pull the yarn until it disappears. I don't like the dim pull, it lives, so I use my needle to make the bottom of the word flat again. Go through the last lip of the chain and pull the yarn, go into the center of the first row and make the needle come out at the center of the last row. Push down on the body of the bird to make the needle go through, grab the needle, let go of the body of the bird, allowing it to go to its original size and pull the yarn carefully, pull on the key chain, or use the needle to pull the head up. If it becomes flattened under a loop from the last strong at the bottom pull, they go into the center of the last Ron and make the needle come out at the center of the first strong at the top of the head. Repeat a couple more times, going up and down through the body and catching in the loop on the last Ron or the last chain of the key chain. Make sure you end at the bottom of the bird and that you have enough yarn left to finish off. To finish off, make the needle come out a few runs above the last run. Go under the loop to the left, pull the yard, go under the same loop again, pull gently until you form a loop with the yarn. Insert the needle into the loop and pull, forming a knot. Insert the needle into the same space where the yarn came out from the body and make it come out on the opposite side of the body. Pull the yarn ending the knot with the needle. Grab the stitch where we make the knot. And the one to its right hold the needle and pull the yarn tight so the knot slips deeper into the body of the bird. And the loop where we made the knot, it's back to its normal size. Sometimes if I still have a big tail left after finish off, I like to go through the Migrmi with the needle a few times. This makes the yarn to get tangled in the stuffing. It's just an extra step to make sure the yarn is secure inside the Amigo. Just make sure to insert the needle into the space it just came out of so that the yarn isn't visible. Pull the yarn tightly and cut the yarn with the scissors flush against the body of the bird. You created all the pieces, attached them together, secured the key chain, and got yourself a cute and Megumi bird congrats. You made it to the end of the class and together we made Amigo key chain. 26. Wrap Up and Thank You: We did it. Thank you so much for watching my class today. I hope it was helpful and that you enjoyed learning a new craft. Once you make one bird, continue your practice by making a few more S, gifts for your friends and family. When you feel comfortable making the little bird, you can try your new skills. With this mini version, both patterns are exactly the same. The only difference is that in the mini version we work with finer weight yarns and smaller hooks and the eyes are six millimeter safety. Both patterns are available for download in the Project and Resources tab. If you have any questions or need any help, please ask them in the discussion section. I want this to be a place where you can help each other. So please reach out. If you need anything, be sure to post pictures of your finished birds in the project and resources section. I'm super excited to see your Amiga room and now you're going to use them. Feel free to post pictures of while you were working on a project as well. And if you love this class on Amigo, have many more coming where I explore more complex projects. So click the follow button above to be notified when that happens. My hope is that once you master this class, you go on to my other skillshare classes that will take you on a learning path from total beginner to a confident casare. I'm really glad you decided to take this class and I'm really excited to see what you create. Al right, that's another class in the back. I'll see you on the next one. And again, thank you so much for spending time with me.