Amigurumi Basics: Flat Shapes

1. Welcome: Hello, everyone, and welcome to amigurumi Basics, flat shapes. I'm Ana. I'm the Migomi designer behind Buddy Rumi. In this class, we'll build our flat shape sampler while learning how to crochet simple geometric shapes like a circle, a square, a triangle and many more. This is the first class in a mini series where we start with simple flat shapes that then will be used in the last class to create an adorable amigurumi project. Now, you might be thinking. Wait, isn't amigurumi about crushing three D plushes? Why are we learning about flat shapes? Well, let's ask our little robot friend. I, I may be T D, but I made from lots of flat pieces, my face nines are rectangle into circles, my control panel, my rectangles, squares and triangles. Even my head and body are built from flat shapes sewn together. Thanks, little robot. And there's another important reason to learn flat shapes. Almost every pretty crochet shape starts as a flat shape. So by learning the basics, you'll build skills that will help you create any kinds of amigurumi project, play the ron. This class is perfect for beginners who want to explore the many possibilities of crochet. Grab whichever hook and yarn you have on hand, and let's get started. 2. Project: Welcome. I'm so happy to see you here. In this class, we'll start building our shape sampler by learning how to make flat shapes. We'll begin with circles and novels, then move on to squares, triangles, and diamonds. After that, we'll learn how to crochet pentagons, hexagons, and octagons. In the final lesson, I'll also show you a special technique to crochet rows so all your stitches face the same side. Don't forget to download the written patterns from the project and resources step. You'll find all the patterns for the shapes we make in this classy. And remember to share your progress in the project and resources step as you complete your shapes. I'd love to see them. Share your project with the rest of the class, go to the project and start the step under this class and click the Submit Project button on the right. Add a picture and a brief description and click Publish. If you have any questions along the way, feel free to leave them in the discussion section. I'm always happy to out. Met me in the next lesson to find out what we'll need to start our sampler. 3. Materials: For this class, you'll need whatever yarn you have on end and a suitable hook for your yarn. Check the label of your yarn to see the recommended hook size. I'm using a medium weight yarn and a 3.5 millimeter hook. That's an E four for the US and size nine for the UK. You'll also need scissors, embroidery needle and stitch markers. Now that we have all we need, let's learn how to crochet a circle. 4. Circle: The starters off on our shape sampler, we are going to learn how to crochet a flat circle. The circle is the best for many amigurumi, and because of that, it's really important to master this simple shape. To crochet a flat circle, you need to start with the right number of stitches. If you start with too many, your work will become wavy. And if you start with too few, your stitches will bunch up into a cop. Taller the stitches you're using, the more stitches you need to start with. If you're working with single crochets, start with six to eight stitches. If you're working we have double crochets, start with eight to ten stitches. If you're working with double crochets, start with 12 to 14 stitches. No matter the stitches you're using, you always start the same way. Where the recommend the number of stitches for the stitch you're using into a magic ring or into a chain turned into a circle. I'm working with single crochet, so I started with six stitches into a magic ring, which is my preferred way to start working in a run. To make a magic ring, wrap the yarn around your index finger two times. Bring the working yarn to the front. Make your hook, go under all the loops on your finger, grab the last one and pull it under the other two. Yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook to secure the magic ring. Take the magic ring off your finger and single crochet into it. Going to the magic ring, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the tulips on the hook. One single crochet. Into the loop, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the tips on the hook, two single crochets. Three, four, five and six. To close the magic ring, take the hook from the loop and turn your magic ring upside down. Pull the tail just a little bit and see which of the loops of the magic ring start to close. Grab it close to the tail and pull it towards you, closing the other loop. Grab the tail and pull firmly, closing the magic ring completely. To get a flat circle, we need to increase by the same number of stitches we started with in every round. Since we started with six stitches, we add six more stitches in every round. That means that the total count will grow like this, six, 12, 18, 24, 30, and so on. Keeping this pattern helps the circle to stay flat. If you had too many or too few stitches, the shape will start to curl or change form. For the second round, increase on all available stitches. At the end, you left 12 stitches. I the tail from the magic ring under the next stitches by working over it. Don't forget to use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your runs. To increase, work another single crochet into the same stitch as before. Continue to increase all the way around to the end of the run. On round three, work one single crochet plus one increase. Repeat this pattern until the end of the round. I'll need to repeat it six times, which is the number of stitches I started with. At the end you left, 18 stitches. For round four work two single crochets plus one increase, repeat to the end of the round. At the end of this round, you left 24 stitches. On Round five were three single crochets plus one increase. Repeat to the end of the round. At the end of Round five, you'll left 30 stitches. To keep growing the circle, simply add one more single crochet before each increase in every new round. For example, on round two, increase in every stitch on round three, one single crochet, one increase. On round four, two single crochets, one increase. On round five, three single crochets, one increase. The next round would be four single crochets, one increase, repeat six times all around. To finish the circle, work a slip stitch into the next stitch and cut the yarn leaving a bit of a tail. Thread the tail on an embroidery or ar needle and needle join. Here's a neat trick to always spread your needle. Add the end of the yarn between your index finger and thumb on your non dominant hand. Place the eye of the needle between the tips of your fingers on top of where you feel the yarn. Push the needle down, and at the same time wiggle it side to side. Your needle is threaded. To needle join, insert your needle into the second stitch to the left and pull the yarn. Insert the needle back into the stitch from where the tail is coming out of and into the top loops of the stitch directly below it. Pull the yarn gently until the stitch is the same size as the top of the single crochets. I like to go into the third loop of the same stitch as well. I think it makes the needle joint kniter. The third loop is this loop at the back of a single crochet right below the back loop. This is the back loop, and right below it, we have the third loop. Finish off on the back of the circle and weave in the ends. To finish off, go under a loop at the back with your needle. Pull the yarn. Go under the same loop again. Pull the yarn gently until you have a loop. Go into the loop and pull creating a knot and securing the yarn. Weave in the ends, under a few stitches at the back and cut the tails. And there you have it a flat crochet circle. A flat circle can be the starting point for many important shapes or a way to complete or embellish your amigurumi. You can use it to create yes, buttons, spots, and many other details. A fun variation of the circle is the half circle. So if we started with six single crochets, for the circle, for the half circle, we are going to start with three. 41 work, three single crochet into a magic ring. Close the magic ring. Because we want to half circle and not a full circle, we need to chain one and turn our work. On row two, increase on all the stitches of the previous row. At the end, we left six stitches. Chain one and turn. On row three work one single crochet plus one increase three times. At the end, we left nine stitches, chain one and turn. Four row four work two single crochets, plus one increase, repeat from the beginning three times. At the end we left 12 stitches. Chain one and turn. Four oh five work three single crochets, plus one increase, repeat three times. At the end, we'll have 15 stitches. You probably notice that a half circle follows the same pattern as the circle. Just cut in half. And just like the circle. If you want to make it bigger, simply add one more single crochet before each increase on every row. If you'd like, you can crochet along the straight edge at the end to give the half circle a cleaner and tidier finish. For that, turn the F circle upside down. Chain one. Work a slip stitch into the same space as the last increase of the last row. Slip citrecross up to the same space as the first single crochet of the last row. Cut the yarn, and it'll joint to the first single crochet of the last row. Go under the top loops of the first single crochet of the last row. And then between the top loops of the less slip stitch of the edge. Finish off at the back the same way we did for the circle. And that's how we crochet one half circle. My favorite way to use the F circle is to make years, but I also use it to make this cute reindeer tail. Next, we are going to learn how to crochet a novel. 5. Oval I: Next our no shaped sampler is the oval. We are going to use two different techniques to create our ovals, the first starting with a magic ring and the second working around the chain. In the first technique, the oval is worked in a similar way as the circle, but with a mix of taller and shorter stitches in the same roungT start, make a magic ring. Into your magic ring work. Two single crochets and one half double crochet. To make a half double crochet, yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, or in this case, into the magic ring, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on the hook. Repeat one more time from the beginning. One single crochet, two single crochets. One half double crochet. Close the magic ring. To keep the shape of the oval always work. Single crochets on top of single crochets and half double crochets on top of half double crochets. At the end of the first round, we'll still have six stitches like we did for the circle, but because we are working with shorter and taller stitches, the end result is an oval and not a circle. For the second round, increase on all stitches of the previous round. The first two increases with single crochets because we are working on top of single crochets. Don't forget your stitch marker. One increase with single crochet. Two increases with single crochet. Next, we have a half double crochet on the previous round, which means we need to increase with half double crochets. Repeat from the beginning, always working single crochets on top of single crochets and half double crochet on top of half double crochets. At the end, we left of stitches. If you want to keep increasing the oval, keep adding one more single crochet before each increase on each round, just like we did for the circle. This way, for the third round, we'd need to work. One single crochet. Place the stitch marker. One increase with single crochets. One single crochet. One increase with single crochets. One half double crochet. And one increase with half double crochets. Repeat from the beginning one more time. At the end, we'll have 18 stitches. To finish the oval, single crochet to bring the height of the stitches down from the half double crochet, slip stitch, needle join, and moving the ends. Cut the tail and thread it on an embroidery needle and needle join. To needle join, insert your needle into the next stitch to the left and pull the yarn. Insert the needle between the top loops of the slip stitch and into the top loops of the stitch directly below it. I like to go under the third loop of this stitch as well. Pull the yarn gently until the stitch is the same size as the top loops of the single crochets. Turn your oval around, go under a loop at the back, pull the yarn, go under the same loop again, pull the yarn gently until you have a loop. Go into the loop and pull creating a knot. We've in the ends, under a few stitches at the back and cut the tail. And that's one way to crochet ovel. The only difference between the circle and this type of oval is that to make the oval, we mix shorter and taller stitches in the same round, and that is what gives us the oval shape. In the next lesson, we'll crochet an oval using a completely different technique. S there. 6. Oval II: For this technical silkro chain runs. But instead of starting with a magic ring, we'll work around the foundational chain to create our oval. For today's oval, we'll start with 11 chains. To start the chain first, we need to create a slip note on our hook. Place the yarn on top of your index finger with it still to the front. Slide your hook under the yarn from left to right, then rotate it clockwise back to its usual position. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop on the hook. One slipknot. Remember that this doesn't count as a chain. To chain, yarn over, pull through the loop on the hook. One chain. Yarn over, pull through two chains. Yarn over, pull through three chains. Four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, and 11. To avoid gaps in the oval, work the first half of the first round in the back bumps of the chain. Turn the chain and insert your hook into the second bump from the hook and work one single crochet. Single crochet, eight more stitches across. One. Two. Three. Four, Five. Six, seven and eight. On the last bump, we are going to create our first round end. And for that, we need to work three single crochets into the same bump. Notice how your piece naturally turns upside down as you crochet. Start working on the other side of the chain. This time grabbing the two top loops. Work the next stitch on the second chain. The first chain is where you work the three single crochets. Work eight single crochets across up to the penultimate stitch. On the last chain, which is the same where we work the first single crochet of the round, we two more single crochets, this creates the second round and end. At the end of the left, 22 stitches. Now we have a group of three single crochets at each end of our work. You can think of these groups as two halves of a circle of six single crochets. When making the second round of our circle, we increase on all six stitches. We'll do the same year, but our circle is split in two ends with eight stitches between them. To work the next round, you'll need to increase on all three stitches on each side. Increase on the first stitch of the previous round. Mark the first stitch with your stitch marker. Work single crochets across. The number of stitches between the two round and ends is always the same. In our case, eight. Increase on the next three stitches. Single crochet, eight stitches across to the other side, and increase on the last two stitches. At the end of Round two, we have 28 stitches. For round three, work, one single crochet, followed by one increase. Work eight single crochets across the straight side of your work up to the first syncrease on the previous round. Work one single crochet plus one increase three times around the first curved end. Single crochet cross with eight stitches, and finally, work on single crochet plus one increase two times. At the end, we have 34 stitches on one forward, two single crochets plus one increase. I know. Eight single crochet across. Two single crochets plus one increase three times. Eight single crochet across. And two single crochets plus one increase two times. Leaving us with 40 stitches at the end of the run. If you'd like to work more runs, keep increasing on the halfs of the circle and heading one single crochet before each increase. For example, the next round would be three single crochetsman increase, eight single crochets across, three single crochetm increase three times, eight single crochet across, three single crochetma increase two times. Once you're happy with the size of the oval, it's time to finish off. But before doing that, I like to work a few extra stitches to smooth out the edge and prevent a kink. Work one single crochet. On lifted. And now you can needle join and finish off. To needle join, go under the top loops of the next stitch to the left, pull the yarn gently. Go between the top loops of the slip stitch and between the top loops and under the third loop of the stitch directly below it. Pull the yarn gently until the needle join is the same size as the top stitches on the edge and finish off at the back. To finish off, go under a loop at the back of your work. Pull the yarn. Be careful not to pull the needle joint too tight. Go under the same loop, pull gently forming a loop with the yarn. Go into that loop and pull forming a knot. Weave in the ends under a few stitches at the back and cut the ends. With this type of oval, you can change the length between the two circular ends simply by starting with a shorter or longer chain. For this shorter piece, I started by chaining seven. And for this longer piece, I started with the chain 12. I like both styles of oval, but I use them for very different situations. The oval where we start with the magic ring has the tendency to get misshapen, the more rounds you work. And that's why I like to use it for smaller details like eyes or spots. The one we start with the chain can we worked up as many rounds as we like, just as long as we keep increasing evenly on the rounded ends. I like to use this type of oval for the soles of shoes or feet or for straps where I want the ends to be rounded. I can even imagine it as a smiling mouse for a robot. Did you know that we can crochet squares in rounds? Oh, es. Join in the next lesson to find out just that. And 7. Squares in Rounds: This is a fun one. We are going to learn now to crochet square in runs. Is it possible? It is grab your Hook. To make a square worked in continuous runs. Start by working four single crochets into a magic ring. On the second round, work three single crochets into each of the stitches of the previous round. This will be the base for the corners on your square. At the end, you'll left 12 stitches. Remember to use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round. For the third round, work on single crochet plus one increase with three single crochets in the next stitch. Notice how your work rotates naturally while you make this increase. Work two single crochets and increase by three in the next stitch. Repeat three times. Make one more single crochet to finish the round. At the end, we left 20 stitches. By now, our work is clearly looking like a square, and now it's just a matter of deciding how big it is going to be. There are two simple rules for making squares in continuous rounds. One, always make the corners in the middle stitch of the corner in the previous round. And two, the stitches between the corners, always increase by two in each round. For example, if you were to single crochet between the corners on round three, on round four, you'll work for single crochet between the corners. Remember that the side where we start and finish the round is split in two. That is why we always start and end the rounds with half of the single crochets. If you follow these two rules, you know that your square is still a square and you don't need to count your stitches at the end of every round. Just continue to work to the desired size. On round forward, two single crochets, increased by three, then work four single crochets, followed by an increase by 33 times. And to finish work two single crochets. At the end, we left 28 stitches. For round five, work three single crochets, increase by three, W six single crochets plus one increase by three, three times W three single crochets to finish the round. At the end, we'll have 36 stitches. A. Continue to increase to the desired size. To finish a square work in rounds, I like to work the same number of single crochet that I finished the last round with. We finished round five with three single crochet. So now we are going to work three single crochet before working a slip stitch and a needle join. The extra stitches, keep this last edge straight. Take the hook from the loop and cut the tail long enough to needle join and finish off. Thread the tail on an embroidery needle, go under the top loops of the next stitch to the left. Pull the yarn. Go between the top loops of the slip stitch and of the stitch directly below it. Go under the third loop of the same stitch as well. Pull the yarn and finish off on the back. Turn the square around, go under a loop at the back. Pull the yarn. Go under the same loop again. Pull the arm gently until you have a loop, go into the loop and pull creating a knot. If you need your tails to be a little bit more secure, there are two ways you can make that happen. Go under a few loops at the back as usual. Then go up or down a row or round and moving the tail in the opposite direction, under a few stitches. Cut the tail. In the second way, go under a few loops as usual. Go under the last two or three loops again. And under a few of the next loops. Cut the tail. My preferred way of making a megurom is in the rounds. I prefer the uniform texture of having stitches always turned to the same side. But the thing I love the most when working in rounds is that your work as in ven angs all around, and you don't need to do anything additional to work up from them. In a piecework in rows to have the same effect, you would have to make an additional round all around your work. In the next lesson, we are going to work one more square, but this time worked in rows. 8. Squares in Rows: In this lesson, we are going to learn how to crochet square in rows and how to finish its sides so that they are all neat and ready to use on your project. To make a square we start by chaining the desired amount of stitches for the size of square we want. Let's work 11 chains. First, work a slip knot. Wrap the yarn on top of the index finger of your non dominant hand with the end to the front. Go under the yarn with your hook from left to right. Turn the hook to get to the position you usually work in. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop, completing a slip knot. Two chain, an, pull through the loop. One chain. Ano. Pull through the loop, two chains. Three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11 chains. For one, work one single crochet into the second change from the hook and then nine single crochets across the chain. I like to work on the back bumps of the chain. You can also work in the back loop of the chain if you prefer. I like to work in the back bumps because it leaves a cleaner finish and doesn't leave gaps between the stitches and the chain. At the end, we left ten stitches. Chain one, and turn your work. Because we are working in rows and with single crochets, we need to chain one and turn before starting the next row. When using taller stitches, you'll need a longer turning chain. For example, for half double crochets, chain two, for double crochet, chain three. As a general rule, the taller the stitch, the longer the chain. For rows two to nine, work ten single crochets across. Chain one and turn your work at the end of each row. Here I am at the end of Row nine. Before we continue, I want to show you a really quick and easy trick to check if you already have a square because sometimes it's a bit hard to tell just by looking at it. Take the hook from your work and fold the square in half corner to corner. If the edge is match, you have a square. Work enough rows to make the square as tall as it is white. I worked up for nine rows, but it's my vary because of the yarn you're using or your personal tension while working. Now that we have a square, it's time to tidy up the unfinished sedges. On row ten, work nine single crochets plus an increased tree into the last stitch, which means you need to work three single crochets into the last stitch. Continue to single crochet down the side between every row. To avoid gas, if the next row begins with a single crochet, instead of inserting your hook below the stitch, go between the V in front of the stitch and go under the first loop at the back as well. On rows that start with a chain, just go between the two rows under the stitch you went into previously. Work three single crochets on the first stitch of the initial chain. Tingle crochet cross and work tree single crochets on the last chain. Single crochet up the other side and were two single crochets on the same space as the first stitch of the last row. So far, we've been leaving a sharp tail to finish work. But if you want to sew your crochet piece onto another later, you'll need to leave a longer tail. I'll show you how to leave a tail long enough to sew crochet pieces together. Remove the hook from the loop and place the square on a flat surface. Loosely lay the working yarn all around the edges of your shape. And double the length of your yarn. Cut a bit further down the yarn, and that way, you will always have a tail long enough for sewing. Undo the loop, thread the tail on an embroidery needle or yarn needle and needle join. To needle join, go under the top loops of the next stitch to the left and pull the yarn Insert your needle between the top loops of the last stitch of the finishing and under the third loop as well. Pull the end gently to avoid pulling on the needle joint too much. This time, we don't need to finish off at the back because we left a long tail at the end to attach this piece to another. You can easily modify the square to create rectangles by working less rows, like for this shorter one, where I only worked up to five rows or by working many more rows like I did for this one, where I worked up for 15 rows. Squares and rectangles can be used for little details like the snout on this cute little cow or the buttons on this cute little robot or for bigger objects like this backpack, where the top, bottom, and pockets are made of squares and rectangles worked in rows. Next thing, our shape sampler is the triangle. Join me in the next lesson to learn how to crochet one. 9. Triangles: In this lesson, we are going to crochet triangle. To make a triangle, we are going to work in rows. Tarpi crochet a chain that is the size of the width of the base of the triangle we wish to crochet. I changed 11 stitches for mine. For row one, work, one single crochet into the second change from the hook, and then nine single crochets across the chain. I like to work into the back bumps of the chain, but you can work into the back loop if you prefer. Chain one and turn. Unlike a rectangle, a triangle needs to get narrower as we work. So we'll use decreases to bring the sides of the triangle towards the center. I like to work the first row without decreases because it keeps the base of the triangle nesting straight. For flat pieces, I like to use the single crochet to together decrease. It doesn't leave unused loops at the back and makes the piece feel stronger and neater. On row two work, a single crochet together, six single crochets, and another single crochet together at the end. At the end, we have eight stitches. To single crochet, two together, insert your hook into the next stitch under both loops. Yarn over, pull up a loop, insert your hook into the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook. Now we need six single crochets. One two, three, four, five, and six. And one more single crochet together at the end. To keep both sides symmetrical, we need to work the same amount of decreases on both sides. You can already see that the edges are starting to slant to the center, Chain one and turn. I don't want the sides of the triangle to narrow too quickly, so I'll alternate between rows with decreases and rows without decreases. Keep repeating this pattern until the end of the triangle. For the third row, work a single crochet across. Chain one and turn. On the fourth row work, a single crochet two together, four single crochets, and single crochet two together. At the end of left, six stitches. Chain one and turn. On the fifth row work six single crochets. Chain one and turn. For the sixth row work, a single crochet two together, two single crochets, and a single crochet two together at the end we left for stitches. Uh, excuse the cutair. Chen onein and turn. On Row seven work four single crochets across. Chen onein and turn. For row eight work two single crochets two together, leaving us with two stitches at the end. Chain one and turn. On Row nine work to single crochets. Chain one and turn. Finally, four row ten, W one single crochet two together, making the upper corner of our triangle with just one stitch at the top. At this point, we have a triangle, but we still need to finish its edges. To do that, start a single crochet down the left side of the triangle between the first and second row. Place a stitch marker on the single crochet you just made to make it easier to finish the edge. As before, to avoid gaps when you have a stitch on the edge, insert your hook between it. On the next row, we have a single crochet together at the edge. Notice how it resembles the capital letter from the front. In this case, I like to insert the hook after the first leg of the N. Be sure to catch the loop at the back as well. Before working into the initial chain, chain two, and work a single crochet into the second bump from the hook. At the corners, we really need to work into the back pump so that the edge of the triangle is even. Work ten single crochets across the initial chain. Working into the initial chain might be a bit harder because we already have stitches worked into it on the other side. Oh. Chain two, work a single crochet into the second chain from the hook. Start single crochet up the right side of the triangle. We can cover the tail from the chain as we work. That way we don't need to weave it in at the end. Place the tail close to the edge of the triangle and work around it. Work the last single crochet of the edge on top of the single crochet together of the last row of the triangle. Chain two. Take the hook from the loop and leave a tail long enough to needle join and finish off undo the loop. Nle join to the first single crochet of the edge, the one with the stitch marker. To needle join, go under the top loops of the first stitch of the edge. Between the top loops of the last chain and between the top loops of the single crochet together on the last row. Pull the yarn. Don't pull too tight. Go under a loop at the back of the triangle. Go under the same loop again. Going to the loop you just created with the yarn and pull forming a knot. Weaving the ends under a few stitches at the back. In pieces where I single crochet it around, I like to go under the stitches on the edge. Cut the remaining tails. One triangle worked in rows. We can control the rate at which the triangle comes to a point. The triangle on the left is the one we just made where we alternated between rows without decreases and rows with decreases. For the one on the right, I decrease on all rows except the first one. For this staller triangle, I wear three rows without decreases between the ones with decreases. If we want a bigger base, we can, of course, start with a longer chain. Triangles are fun to use as little details on our Ming roomy, like the buttons on our little robot friend or the nose on the sku utter. In the next lesson, we are going to make a diamond. Join me there. 10. Diamond I: To make the diamond using the first method, we need to crochet a triangle just like the one we did in the previous lesson, but without the finished edges. Work the triangle to the top, yarn over and pull up a loop. Take the hook from the loop and cut the yarn leaving a bit of tail. Undo the loop, and now you work quantum gravel. To make the diamond, we are going to work a slip knot on our hook, grab the triangle with the unfinished sides and flip it upside down. We are going to work on the base of the triangle. Think of a diamond. If we divide it at the middle, we get two triangles joined at the base, one pointing up and the other down. We just need the second triangle. Insert your hook under the top loops of the first stitch on the right. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on the hook, completing a join with a single crochet. This is one of the things I love most about crochet. No matter where you are, on your work, you can go wherever you want. Want to grow wider, narrower, grow to the outside, and back to the center again. We can do that. Want to go back without finishing this row around? Yes, we can do it. Want to start working at random point on your work? Sure. I just love the endles possibilities and what you can make with them. Continue to single crochet across the base of the first triangle. At the end of the 11th throw, we'll have ten stitches. I call this the 11th throw because we already have ten rows of the first triangle. Now it's just a matter of continuing our second triangle the same way we made the first one. Chain one and turn. For the 12th row, work one single crochet, two together, six single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end, we elevate stitches. Chain one and turn. On row 13, work eight single crochets across. Chain one and turn. On the 14th row, work one single crochet two together, four single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end, we'll have six stitches. Chain one and Turn. On the 15th row, work six single crochets. Chain one and turn. Or the 16th row, work a single crochet, two together, two single crochets, and one more single crochet two together. At the envell four stitches. Chain one and turn. On the 17th row, work four single crochets across. Chain one and turn. F 018, work to single crochets two together. We'll have two stitches at the end. Chain one and turn on the 19th throw, work to single crochets. Chain one and turn. And for row 20, work one single crochet two together to make the tip of the second triangle with just one stitch at the top. To finish single crochet on the first side and mark the first stitch. This way is easier to know where to needle join into at the end. At the first corner, work one single crochet, chain one, and work another single crochet into the same space. Single crochet on the next side, covering the tails. No At the bottom corner, work one single crochet, chain two, and another single crochet into the same space. Single crochet up the next side. At the second shallow corner, work one single crochet, chain one plus one single crochet into the same space. Make sure to make this corner at the same height as the corner on the other side. Continue to single crochet on the next edge to the top. At the top, work one single crochet and chain two. Take the hook from the loop and cut the yarn leaving a bit of a tail. Needle joint to the first single crochet of the edge. To needle join, go under the top loops of the first single crochet of the edge, the one marked with a stitch marker. Pull the yarn carefully and make sure that the top loops of the chain are facing up. They tend to roll over when we pull the yard. Go between the top loops of the last chain and of the last single crochet of the finishing, pull gently. At the back, go under a loop, pull the yarn. Go under the same loop again, pull slowly forming a loop with the yarn, go into the loop and pull creating a knot and securing the yarn. Weave in the ends. I like to weave in the ends under the stitches on the edge. Cut all the tails close to the back of the diamond. Be careful not to cut your stitches. And that's one way to make a diamond. In the next lesson, we are going to learn a different technique for how to crochet a diamond. Join me there to know how. 11. Diamond II: For the second method, we'll work the diamond in one piece, starting at the point on the bottom and ending at the point on the top. To start this diamond work a slip t and chain two. Work three single crochets into the second change from the hook. Chain one and turn. On the second row, work three single crochets across Chain one and turn. Let's do that again. For rotary, increase on the first stitch, work on single crochet, and increase again on the last stitch. Turn one and turn. We'll have five stitches at the end. Work five single crochets across for the fourth row. Chain one and turn. On row five work, one increase, plus three single crochets, plus one increase. At the end, we'll have seven stitches. Chain one and turn. Work seven single crochets for row six. For row seven, increase on the first stitch, W five single crochets, and increase on the last stitch of the row. At the end, we left nine stitches, chain one, and turn. On row eight, work nine single crochets across. Chain one, and turn. For row nine, work one increase, plus seven single crochets plus one increase. At the end we have 11 stitches. Chain one and turn. H. Work 11 single crochets for row ten, chain one and turn. One half of the diamond is made. Now we need to start to decrease to make the other half. So for row 11, work one single crochet, two together, seven single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end, we'll have nine stitches, chain one and turn. For Row 12, work nine single crochets. Chain one and turn. For the 13th throw, work one single crochet, two together, five single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end, we have seven stitches. Chain one and turn. On Row 13, work seven single crochets across. Chain one and turn. On the 15th row, work one single crochet, two together, plus three single crochets, plus one single crochet, two together. At the end we have five stitches, chain one and turn. Oh for row 16, work five single crochets chain one and turn. On row 17, work a single crochet, two together, one single crochet, and one more single crochet, two together. At the end, we left three stitches. Chain one and turn. On the 18th throw, work three single crochets across. Chain one and turn. For ow 19, work one single crochet, three together, leaving us with one stitch at the end. Two single crochet, Tree together, go into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Go into the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Now you have four loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook. And that's one single crochet tree together. Finish the diamond the same way as the first one. Single crochet on the first side, Mark the first stitch. On the first corner, work one single crochet, chain one, and one single crochet into the same space. Single crochet down the next edge. Work one single crochet, two chains, and another single crochet into the corner. Single crochet up the next edge. Make a shallow corner with one single crochet plus a chain and another single crochet into the same space. Single crochet up the left side. On the top work, one single crochet, chain two, and needle joint to the first ditch of the finishing. To needle join, go under the top loops of the first stitch of the finishing. Pull the yarn and make sure that the chain is facing to the outside. Go between the loops of the last chain and into the last single crochet of the finishing. Pull the yarn. At the back, go under a loop. Go under the same loop again. Go into the loop we just created with our yarn, pull forming a knot with in the ends and cut. Be careful not to cut your stitches. Here are the two diamonds we made in this lesson and in the previous one. They are basically the same. The only difference is that in the one on the right, from the middle, downwards, the stitches are upside down. Just like the triangles, we can control their size by working more or less rows without decreases or increases, between the ones with decreases or increases. In this long one, I worked three rows without decreases, between the ones with decreases. For this little guy, I increased and then decreased on all rows. How you make your diamond, it's up to you. Choose a technique that works best for your project. Join me in the next lesson to find out how to crochet a pentagon, hexagon, and an octagon. 12. Pentagon: Next for a ship sampler, we are going to crochet pentagon. To make a pentagon, start by working a slip note on your hook and chaining 11 stitches. Work one increase plus eight single crochets, plus one increase on the chain for row one. At the end, we left 12 stitches, chain one and turn. For the second row, work 12 single crochets across Chen and turn. On rotary, increase on the first stage. Work ten single crochets and increase again on the last staige. At the end well life 14 stitches, Chen one and turn. Work 14 single crochets across for row four, chain one and turn. Four row five, work one increase, plus 12 single crochets, plus one increase. At the end we left, 16 stitches, chain one and turn. Work 16 single crochets, four row six, chain one and turn. No. On row seven, work on increase, 14 single crochets, and increase. At the end we left, 18 stitches, Chain one and turn. On row eight, work, 18 single crochets. Chain one and turn. Four row nine, work, one increase, 16 single crochets, and one increase. At the end we left 20 stitches, chain one and turn. For roten work, 20 single crochets, chain one and turn. Now we are going to start to decrease to make the top part of the Pentagon. Work one single crochet, two together, 16 single crochets, and one single crochet, two together for the 11th row. At the end we live, 18 stitches, chain one and turn. Because I want the top to decrease at a faster rate than what we increased for, I'm going to add two more rows with decreases. And so for row 12, work one single crochet two together, 14 single crochets plus one single crochet two together. At the end, we have 16 siches chain one and turn. Four row 13, work one single crochet two together, 12 single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end, we left 14 stitches, chain one and turn. Work 14 single crochets, four row 14, chain one and turn. On w 15, work one single crochet two together, plus ten single crochets plus one single crochet two together. At the end, we left, 12 stitches, chain one and turn. For row 16, work one single crochet two together, eight single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end we left ten stitches, chain one and turn. Four row 17, work one single crochet two together, six single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end well left eight stitches, chain one and turn. Work eight single crochets for row 18. Chain one and turn. On row 19, work one single crochet two together, four single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end of left, six stitches, chain one and turn. Work two single crochet, three together for row 20. At the end of left, two stitches, chain one and turn. And finally, to make our pentagon really pointy, W one single crochet two together. To finish the pentagon, single crochet on the first edge. Don't forget to mark the first stitch of the finishing. On the first corner work one single crochet, chain one, and one more single crochet into the same space. Single crochet down the second edge. On the initial chain, first move the tail out of the way into the back. Then work one single crochet, chain one plus one single crochet only in the same space. Work eight single crochet across ding the tail. No On the last ditch, work one single crochet, plus a chain one plus one single crochet in the same space. Single crochet up the next edge. Make sure that the corners on the side of the Pentagon are between the same rows on both sides for this corner work, one single crochet, chain one, and one single crochet into the same space. Single crochet up to the top. Work one single crochet on top of the 21st row of the pentagon, chain two, and needle joint to the first single crochet of the finishing. Take the hook from the loop and cut the yarn leaving a tail. To needle join, go under the top loops of the first ditch of the finishing. Pull the yarn gently. Make sure that the chain is facing out. Go between the top loops of the last stitch, pull the yarn carefully until the join is the same size as the top stitches of the edge. Finish off at the back and cut all the tails. Go under a loop at the back, go under the same loop again, forming a loop with the yarn. Go into the loop and pull creating a knot and securing the yarn. Weave in the ends at the back and cut all the tails. And here's our pentagon. With a few small changes to the pentagon, we can also create a hexagon and an octagon. To make a hexagon, start the same way as the pentagon, up to row ten. At this point, you should have 20 stitches. From here, you'll begin shaping the other side. Work one row with 20 single crochet. No changes, then start decreasing on both sides, every other row until you're back to 12 stitches. For example, on row 11, work 20 single crochet. On row 12, single crochet, two together, 16 single crochets, single crochet, two together. At the end of left, 18 stitches. For row 13, work 18 single crochets across. On row 13, work one single crochet, two together, 14 single crochets, and one single crochet two together. At the end of left, 16 stitches. Keep repeating this pattern, one decrease row, one regular row until you reach 12 stitches again. The octagon is made the same way, but with a few extra rows in the middle. Start like the pentagon up to row ten, where we have 20 stitches. Then work several rows with 20 stitches. Now increases or decreases. I work ten rows. After that, shape it the same way as the oxagon by alternating. One row decreases, one row without decreases. Continue until you reach 12 stitches again. You can find the full patterns for both shapes in a project and resources page, along with all the other shapes from this class. Pentagons, hexagons, and octagons are great for decorating your amigurumi. You can use them as buttons like we did with the squares and triangles for our little robot friend as spots or other details. For example, they would look at able as giraffe spots. We could make these shapes in the run, but that would involve chains for the corners, which can leave small holes. For amigurumi, we usually want a tight fabric with no gaps. That's why working in rows is a better option here, even if it takes a little more effort. If we want our stitches to face the same side when working in rows, we can use inverted crochet technique. That's what I want to show you in the next lesson. 13. Inverted Crochet Technique: When we crochet in rows, the stitches on each row face opposite directions. This can create visible lines in the fabric. For amigurumi I usually prefer to work in rounds because all stitches face the same side and the fabric looks smoother. But sometimes working in rounds isn't the best option for the shape we want to make. A helpful way to work around. This is a technique I like to call the inverted crochet technique. To use this technique, start by chaining the number of stitches you need for your shape. Work your first single crochet to the second change from the hook, single crochet across, chain one, and turn just like you normally would. Here is where it's different. On even number rows, you bring the yarn to the front of your work. With the help of your thumb, keep the working yarn always to the right side of your hook. Usually, we would insert our hook from the front to the back, but to work the inverted crochet technique, we are going to invert our stitches on even number rows. For that, we need to insert our hook from the back to the front. Yarn over, make the hook go under the working yarn and grab it. Bring up a loop. After grabbing the yarn, pull it through the stitch and to the back of your work. Yarn over once more and pull the yarn through the tu loops on the hook. You just completed a single crochet worked with inverted crochet technique. Let's do that again. Go under the top loops of the next stitch from the back to the front. Always keep the yarn to the right of the hook. Yarn over. Pull up a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through the tu loops on the hook. Into the next stitch. N over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook. It may feel a little awkward at first, especially in the first rows where we don't have too much fabric to hold on to. But with some patience and practice, we get there. The fronts of the stitches on both rows are facing the same side. Remember to chain one before turning and starting the next row. On the out number rows, we work as usual. The result is a fabric worked in rows where all stitches face the same side. We can use this technique when creating all types of shapes, not just squares, and we can use it with most crochet stitches. On pieces worked with inverted crochet technique, we finish the sides the same way we did before. Just make sure that the front of the stitches, the little vis face the same side as the ones on the edge. Parachute little robot friend, I use flat shapes to build the head, body, the face, the panel, and its little buttons. As you can see, I use the inverted crochet technique in all of them. I think it gives a cleaner, smoother finish, with an even texture. Now that we have our great sampler or flat shapes to spark our imagination, I invite you to join my next class in this series where we are going to crochet three d shapes. 14. Thank You: Congrats One more class finished. Thank you so much for watching my class today. I hope it was helpful and that you learn new exciting things. Continue to practice making the shapes we crochet it in this class and experiment with their variations. Remember that the patterns for all the shapes we crochet in this class are available in the project and resources staff. If you have any questions or need any help, please ask in the discussion section. I'm here to help and clear any doubts you might have. Be sure to post pictures of your shape sampler in the project and resources page. You can post pictures of your shapes as you finish. Can group the shapes in a ring like I did with mine, keep them in a special fancy box, attach them to a felt or crochet book or do whatever you prefer. The important thing is to have them all at hand in a way that it's easy for you to grab and use as reference whenever you need. In the next less of this series, we are going to tackle pretty crochet shapes. Make sure to follow me to be notified when that happens. Thank you so much for watching, and I hope to see you soon.