Rug Tufting Gun For Beginners - Create a Colourful Pet Rug

1. Welcome!: Have you seen custom rugs trending on social media and thought it seemed really exciting and fun. But maybe we're a little bit intimidated to start on your own in this class was designed for you to have to use great for anyone who wants to work with their hands and create large functional pieces of art very quickly. For, for anyone who wants a low stress creative activity. Hi there, I'm Charlie. I'm an artist from Atlantic Canada, textile and watercolor and specialize in rainbow colored animal portraits. I began selling rainbow animal or portraits professionally in 2019. And we'll watercolor is really fun and satisfying. I really wanted to produce larger works that wouldn't take a ton of time. I started seeing videos of people using electric arc Tufte and guns to produce really large pieces very quickly, being intrigued by this, in 2021, I bought a wrong toughening gun and produce my first rug, and I never looked back. I begin just by producing pieces that I wanted to produce for myself. And I immediately found a local market for my work. There's currently a lot of demand worldwide for customer rugs. If decide to take this up as a hobby, it's one that can pay for itself in the long term. And since we're in tough thing with electric current, Tufte and gun, I knew as an artistic form, There's a lot of room for experimentation and find your own voice and it's medium. In this class, I want to introduce you to everything you'll need to know to begin your work tapping journey. Materials you want to purchase and use depending on your own personal goals. A variety of backing and toughening techniques and some tips that I use to make testing easier and to make my rugs extra flash. Your final project for this class, I'll provide you all the information you need to produce colorful cat runs like these ones. But you shouldn't feel limited to stick to my designs. The techniques I'll be teaching you can easily be applied to absolutely designing and come up with. These. Don't feel limited by the materials that I provide and feel free to explore your imagination for your final project. Thank you very much for joining me and please enjoy the class. 2. Safety: Our first lesson together, I want to go over some basic safety tips for working with a tactic gum. When you're working with it's happening. Gun is important to remember that this is a power tool. Does come with a few dangers just inherent to using a powerful. The most immediate health risks to consider is vibration from the gun. As the needle punches in and out of the fabric, it creates some kickback. In your gun. This can cause nerve damage or nerve numbness through your hand. And some people have said, I've lasted weeks or even months for them. Some people like to use a wrist brace to help strengthen their risks, to help absorb the impact a little bit more. But I found what's much more effective is using some sharpness bourbon gloves. These gloves have a padded palm which absorbs the shock directly from the gun and prevents it from going into your arm whatsoever. Electric toughing guns are also quite loud, so it's best to use some sort of hearing protection. I use over the ear headphones like these. But you can also use earmuffs which you can purchase at any hardware store. Another consideration is the dust produced by Tufte and guns. When you're testing, the yarn is being cut very quickly and dust is getting into the air. If you're only creating a one-off frog, it's probably isn't such a big deal. But if you want this to be a long-term hobby or even a career, you're gonna wanna protect your lungs from that desk. I use a basic fabric mask, but you can also use a dust mask if you like. On the topic of protecting your lungs, depending on what type of adhesive use, you may also need a ventilator mask like this one. You'll want to use a ventilator mask. If you use adhesives such as carpet adhesive or latex adhesive. One final safety consideration is for your gun itself. Because the gun moves at such a high-speed, create quite a bit of friction and heat. So it makes sure that you are oiling the scissors, which are here underneath the needle. About every half-hour, you can just use a basic machine oil or even a mineral oil. But there's few simple safety precautions. You should have a long toughening journey ahead of you. 3. Backing Fabric and Gear: In this lesson, I'll cover the materials you'll need to start your shopping journey. We're going to discuss backing projects, including the two most common back and fabrics, which are toughening fabric and burlap also briefly discuss frame and some miscellaneous materials that you'll want to have on hand. Ideal backing fabric should have very little stretch on the horizontal or vertical, but quite a bit of give between the weave. This a piece of primary toughening fabric, also known as primary backing fabric. If you give it a good tug, you see it does not give on the horizontal or the vertical. We can easily pull the wave apart. This allows the wave to move around your needle without distorting the image of your actual rug. The burlap also has good horizontal and vertical toughness. However, believe is very, very tight. So this means that when the needle is forcing its way through the fabric, it's much more likely to create a tear. This makes burlap much more difficult to use both as a beginner and even as a more advanced Tucker. Well, burlap is much cheaper and more available than primary backing fabric. If you're going to splurge on one item, investing in the primary backing fabric is your best bet. Your next must-have item is a toughening frame. The frame allows you to stretch your backing fabric and keeps it nice and taut while you're touching the two characteristics you want from a good frame or that it will hold the fabric taut and that it can withstand the pressure of the gun driving into the fabric. There are many different types of frames. I've included a link to a kit that contains a toughening frame down in the class description. We can also create your own frame using two-by-twos or two-by-fours. Or you can purchase a canvas stretcher for stretching canvas for artists at pretty much any craft or art store and use that instead. Mothering materials you want to have on hand are a good pair of fabric scissors. You'll need these for cutting the yarn as well as cutting your backing fabric. And you're finishing fabric if you use that. You also want a marker for transferring your design or free handing your design onto your backing fabric before you be in tough thing, you'll want a printer and some paper to print out your design so you can transfer it or a projector, or you can just skip that part and freehand reside directly onto your backing fabric. You'll also want a yarn needle for fixing any holes in your fabric or for completing a whip stitch. If you want to finish your rug that way. And you'll want some hot glue for backing your rug or repairing any holes in your topic fabric. Just review the materials you absolutely need are good backing fabric, sturdy frame, scissors, a marker for transparent design, and some hot glue. And some nice to have extra items are a yarn needle and a printer or a projector for transferring your image. 4. Yarn: Picking out your colors is probably my favorite part of Rome. Toughening urine coming just so many wonderful colors and textures. Just incredibly fun to go looking at it in choosing your favorites. This lesson we're going to cover three different yarn types. Acrylic, cotton, wool. You ever experienced with yarn acrylic, it's probably urine you've seen most often. It's most available in big-box stores and craft stores. It has some advantages and disadvantages. Its availability being a very strong advantage. It's also very cheap and comes in a lot of color varieties compared to the other types of yarn. Downsides are that it's not very durable or strong, so it's best suited to projects that are going to be hanging on a wall or e.g. throws for a couch or a bed that are not necessarily going to be trampled on. Let me will also contact allergies with acrylic yarn. So just be a little bit cautious when you first use it. See if get a little bit itchy. If so, then might switch to a different area. Say most common type of yarn is wool yarn. Yarn in West Sharmila acrylic yarn. And it's perfect for wrongs that are gonna be in high traffic areas that are going to get trampled on a lot, lot Springer and sturdier and hold its shape a lot better. Hello yarn is much more expensive and is much more difficult to find. You might need to get it from a specialty store. It also comes in fewer colors and those colors tend to be more muted, earthy tones than the bright colors that you see with acrylic yarn. Final type of yarn is cotton yarn, and it tends to be a little bit between an acrylic urine and wool yarn for its strength. Also pretty hard to come by, but it's a good option for wall hangings if you have it on hand, but you don't necessarily need to go out and search for it. Just to recap how this is going to impact your project is that if you're doing a wall hanging, acrylic yarn is probably the way to go just for its convenience and cost. And otherwise, wool yarn is great for anything you're going to have on the floor. 5. Glue: In this lesson, we're going to cover everything blue from latex glue to floor adhesive to PVA glue and even spray adhesive. Going to discuss when to use which types. Carbon adhesive has some strong advantages and disadvantages. One of his primary advantages is that it's latex based, which means that it's waterproof and strong. So it can be used for rugs that'll be used on the floor in high traffic areas. It's also quite affordable and readily available. And most hardware stores. Downside is that because there's quite a lot of fillers in it to keep the cost down. It produces a very strong odor that can be quite noxious to people and animals. And that, that smell can last for months or even years after the rug has been completed. If you put your nose close to a rug that has been tempted with carpet adhesive, you can probably still smell the adhesive. Well, this is fine for homes with adults. Once the carbon adhesive has dried, I don't recommend it for use around children or pets. Because of the strong odor and the volatile compounds in carpet adhesive, you do use this, use it with a respirator. Most durable glue is pure latex glue. It's very strong and water repellent and very pliable. It has a strong odor when you use it, but it dries completely senseless and a safe around children and pets. The cons as I said, it does have a strong odor when it's wet. It again, you'll want to use a respirator when you're applying pure latex glue. It's also the most expensive of the glues and it can be quite hard to find. You may need to get it from a specialty shop, especially pottery shops tend to have it in stock. My preferred glue is PVA glue. Glue is water-based and it's completely nontoxic, so it safe around kids and pets. You don't have to use a respirator when you're using it. And it's also cheap and readily available. It comes in two types. There's non waterproof, washable type and also wood glue, which is more water resistant. The downside of PVA glue is that it's not nearly as strong as the latex based carbon adhesive or latex glue. You'll want to use PVA glue on items that are going to be hung or displayed only, not on high traffic area rugs often use hot glue and finishing my rugs, I use it for applying the final back-end cloth after the rug has been glued up and is dried. It's great for getting into nooks and crannies, tight areas, and creating a very precise line of glue. Many people like to use a spray adhesive for applying they're backing. My main concern with Brahe's HIV is that it is quite noxious. So again, you're going to need a respirator when you use it and you won't want to be using it around children or pets. Just to recap, PVA glue is the cheapest and safest glue that you can use for gluing up the back has every rugs, but it's also the weakest, should only be used for wall hangings and other art pieces. Here, latex glue is the strongest, but it's also the most expensive. And harvest defined is perfect for using with rugs that are gonna be in high traffic areas. And carpet adhesive is a bit of a compromise. It's not especially safe, but it is a very strong and durable and good for carpets that are going to be in high traffic areas. 6. Tufting Tips: In this lesson, we're gonna go over some toughening tips to help you get really comfortable using your toughening gum or discuss gun control. So how to change your direction easily? Speed control, out of control the thickness of the pile on the front side of the rug. And of course, how to fix any mistakes you might make when using a tough thing gun. First thing you might notice is that it has two handles. This handle here with a trigger is you're driving handle, use it to change direction of the gun. So if you want to go right, e.g. you turn the entire gun, you want to go left? Turn the entire gun. The front handle is just for stability. So it's holding the weight of the gun just to make sure that there's adequate pressure between the foot of the gun and the backing fabric. When you're holding the gun, you want to use your middle finger to depress the trigger. This will help you with control. It also ensure that the vibrations from the gun are distributed throughout your hand evenly and are not going just own your index finger joints. When you're using the gun. Biggest tip is to apply even and firm pressure against the fabric. If you find it, you're going to skipping. You may need to press harder against your fabric. The best way to fill in large areas is to trace around the shape and then fill in the areas with straight lines. So when you're going around curves, really helps to tap the trigger just to slow down the gun a little bit. There's also a speed control on the bottom of your gun that you can use to slow down or speed up your gun depending on which area you're working on your topic. I'm also naturally want to follow the weave of the backing fabric, so that's vertical and horizontal lines. So take it nice and slow when you're going around curves to make sure you don't cut your fabric. But also try to use straight lines as much as possible, fulfilling an order shapes. When you are filling in shapes, try to make sure that you're always going in the same directions, all horizontal or vertical. Reason for this is that the pile will change direction on the front of the rug depending on which direction it was, Tufte it in. So you'll find that it catches the light differently. You can use this to your advantage if you want a very subtle shifts in color. If e.g. if you want to tough to work of a cat that has stripes or spots that only show up when the rug isn't sunshine. One aspect of drug trafficking, but surprisingly contentious, is the amount of space that tough to put between their strands. So you may find some chapters use a large gap, the rows and others, but the rows right next to each other. Personally, I think that the space between rows should be based on your final outcome. So if you put rows that are very close together so there's no gap between them. Then on the front of your rug, you're going to end up with a very thick confirm pile. If you want a softer and fluffier pile, then leave more space between those rows. You ideally don't want more than one row width between your rows of yarn. It's also best practice to use two strands of yarn when toughening. Usually use them from two separate balls. So e.g. I. Have two orange balls here, and each one might donate a strand to a single color area. This just gives you a nice thick pile on the front of the rug. If you want to create a very detailed area or a very fine line, then you can use a single strand of yarn and you're done instead. However, that's gonna make it very difficult to fill in the space evenly. So again, single-strand for very fine details and double-stranded for larger areas we're going to be filling in. My own work. I use a lot of rainbow gradients. I really love to blend between colors like purple, blue and teal or pink, orange and yellow. When creating a blend, make sure that using colors that are similar to each other. So they're right next to each other on the color wheel. If I want my primary color to be orange, colors right next to it are yellow on one side and pink on the other. Having colors that are near each other on the color wheel will ensure that there's a nice smooth transition. I found the best way to transition between colors is by putting down the main color and then putting down a mixture of the color that you want to transition to and the main color. So if I were to go from orange to pink, I would put down an area of orange. And then in the middle area, I would add an area of both pink and orange, so one strand of each into the gun. Then to finish the transition, I'll do a solid area of pink. What I love absolutely most about recruiting is how incredibly easy to fix mistakes. You can make a steak you've put a color and then incorrect area, e.g. all you have to do is pull the yarn. You don't want to be there. And you can use your nail to straighten the wave and the backing fabric. This will essentially reset the backing fabric and then you can talk over that area again. If you've managed tear a large hole and you're backing fabric, you can just quickly on a patch and just help prayed over it. Recap this lesson. When using your Tufte again, make sure you're turning the entire gun when you're doing around curves. You also want to keep the gun moving in a straight line as much as possible and preferably in the same direction to keep a nice, smooth, even pile on the opposite side. Make sure you take your time going around curves especially doesn't erase. You can take your time. Most importantly, remember that you can fix any mistakes. Should be a nice low pressure activity. 7. Finishing Your Rug: In this lesson, we're going to cover everything you need to know about finishing your rug to give it a beautiful professional finish, and to make sure that lasts a very long time, I'm going to cover the glue up, various finishes and some tips for getting a nice clean finish on the front. Once you've typed in your rug, you want to add an even coat of glue to the back. This will ensure that your urine stays in place and doesn't fall out if your drug is being cleaned or his pulled on by child, e.g. with your rug still attached to the frame to make sure that it doesn't curl, apply a thin even coating. Try to get into any nooks and crannies and cover a little bit of the edge of the backing fabric as well. You want to ensure that your glue is fully dried before removing your rug from the toughening frame usually takes about 12:40, 8 h depending on the type of glue used. For the PVA glue that I use, I usually just leave my rugs overnight and they're dry by morning. Whether or not you add it back into your rug is personal preference. Some people like to trim any visible backing cloth off the edge of their rug and call it a day with that, personally, I like to add a backing because it adds a bit more of a professional touch and also add some durability to your rug. The easiest and fastest finish for a rug is called a waterfall edge. In order to do a waterfall edge, you trim so you have about an inch to an inch and a half of excess fabric all around your rug. Into the excess fabric you're gonna cut relief cuts and really cuts are just perpendicular to the fabric. Just want to cut them every few inches and then hot glue those down to the back of your rug. When you're folding these relief cuts over, you want to make sure that one or two strands of the yarn from the front of your rug also shows up on the back of your rug. This ensures that you're going to have a nice clean edge. That's also why during the design, I recommend keeping a thicker outer edge so that way you don't lose any detail. The inside of your rug. Once your x is backing fabric has been glued down to your rug and there's a nice ring of yarn all the way around your rug. You can apply your backing fabric. That can fabric that I prefer is fleece. It's very, very sturdy and quite affordable. It also doesn't require any extra sewing so you can glue it on directly. We want to trim that down to an approximate size, apply it with glue. I use hot glue for attaching my backings, but many people prefer to use spray adhesive is a bit faster and then you want to glue down the edges of your backing fabric very carefully, as near to that rim of yarn as possible. Hot glue works best for this just to make sure that you get into the very narrow nooks and crannies. And then you can take your scissors and trim off any of the excess backing fabric that might be overhanging, would that your rug is complete. Another common finished her rugs is a whip stitch. Whip stitch is great if you have a very small rug, a drug that doesn't have very thick outlines. Or you have trimmed at your backing fabric a little bit too short. Whip stitch finish your rug. You want about half an inch to an inch of excess fabric. Going to take your finishing backing fabric and turn it to about the same size as the spare backing fabric on your rug. You want to pull these two fabrics in half over each other. And just so up the edges, you can use the same yarn color is used for your outline, or you can use a color that will call them in the rest of your rug. If you have any type turns on your rug like this one here. Just going to continue the same pattern. I'm just going to tuck your fabric in and your needle through the back and follow the same basic pattern. What makes the biggest difference between a professional looking rug and an amateurish looking rogue is the amount of finishing you do after your top did you always want to go back over your rug and even at the pile as much as possible. You can do this with an electric shaver or with scissors. It's a little bit more time-consuming with scissors, but you can get the exact same kind of effect. You can also go over your lines and trimmed down inside the room pile to make your lines a little bit straighter and more. Even if you like, make sure you're taking your scissors to the outside edge of your rug and really clean up those edges. Really clean edges will help the entire rug feel just one step better. But just to recap, wonderful edge where you're going down the edges of your rug is really good if you have a large area to cover or you want to work really quickly. A whip stitch is great for if you don't have a very small rug or you don't have very much excess backing cloth around the edges of your book. The most important part of making a rug look nice and finished on professional is the cleanup. Take your time cleaning up any spare strands and tightening up any lines that need tightening up. 8. Design Tips: In this lesson, I'm going to go over some tips to help you finalized design for your own projects. We're going to cover some design elements including linewidth, shapes and colors. And I'm also discuss some tips for choosing the correct ER. Creating your design. It's best to use thicker outlines around the body of your design and thinner lines on the inside to add more detail, the thicker outlines on the edge of Iraq will allow you to create a waterfall edge for your backing without losing detail on the inside of the rug. When designing your rug, you want to try to create simple shapes. Might help to think of rug drafting as more like pixel art than oil painting. You're not going to create very crisp lines. There's always gonna be a bit of fuzziness by using simple shapes and helps to convey a sense of your subject, rather than getting photo-realistic, which would be extremely difficult or possibly impossible with a rug. If you're doing a rainbow design, you want to choose analogous colors for your rainbow. So analogous colors are colors that are very close to each other on the color wheel. So e.g. if I do an orange tabby cat, I know that orange is going to be my primary color. And the color is closest to it on the color wheel are yellow and pink. These colors will blend together nicely and create a beautiful gradient. For areas where I want to draw the eye. I'm going to create high contrast. I'm going to use complimentary colors. How much color is just opposite colors on the color wheel. So if oranges my primary color, them, blue is the compliment. In my rug example, I might use an orange cat with blue eyes. Another aspect to consider is the tone of your color. So e.g. a, pale blue like this. Why not stand out as strongly against a pale yellow as this darker blue? You can check the value of your yarn by taking a photograph with your phone and just desaturating it. Were your analogous colors that create your rainbow that are close together. You also want them to be close together in tone. So they want them to have a similar gray value. For a high contrast color. You want them to be quite far apart. When you're creating a rainbow gradient, I found the best way to do it is by creating a block of one color on one side. Your transition color on the other side. And in the center, use one strand of each of those colors on either side to create a transition area where it's going to be a mix of color one and a mix of color to. This just helps create a nice soft transition. The calf when creating your design, I want to use thick outlines around the edges of your rug. Thinner lines on the inside. And you want to really simplify your shapes as much as possible. It's also good to consider where you want contrast and to use your colors wisely. Complimentary colors for contrast and analogous colors that are close to each other on the color wheel or gradients. 9. Your Project: Finally, time for less than you've all been waiting for designing your own project. In this lesson, we're going to discuss everything we've discussed in the previous lessons. We're looking how to apply those skills and principles to your own personal projects. Most important consideration before you'd be in toughing is what is your end goal? You want a wall piece. You want a pillow or a throw off your couch, or do you want a rug for using in your kitchen, living room, or entryway? The final goal you have for your rug will dictate the type of materials that you'll want to use. A few decided what you want to use your work for. You can start designing it. I usually begin my designs with a photograph and I'll just trace around the subject. So in this case it's a cat. And I'll use the principles that we discussed earlier. So using very simple shapes. So we're going to use e.g. I want to round the corners, make them a little bit thicker, make the head a little bit rounder just to make it easier when I'm actually toughening those areas. Also create a thicker outline. This will help with my waterfall edge when I back my rug. And I'll keep the internal lines a bit thinner to make them look a little bit more elegant when you're designing your rug. Also keep color in mind. I think my primary color you'd like to use for your gradient and put that in the center. And then the colors that are near it on the color wheel and go on either side. So e.g. on this blue rug, I have green on one side and purple on the other. Both of those colors contained blue. So I know it will make a nice smooth gradient. Also be sure to plan your color blocks so that way you have transitional areas between your two main colors. So if my main colors are blue and purple, e.g. I want an area where the rug will be toughened with both blue and purple to help create a smoother transition. The same on the opposite side, or the blue and green section. I want a section between blue and green where it will be both blue and green. And finally, you want to reserve your complimentary colors or any area that you want to really pop. In this case, it's the cat's eyes. And because I've used blue as the main color, I want the eyes to be orange and yellow to help them really stand out against that blue. As we discussed, there are few ways to transfer your design. You can print out the design of the card size, tape it together, and pin it to the back of your primary backing cloth. And then it's just a matter of tracing it onto your primary backing cloth. You can also use a projector or 300 design. When transferring your design, make sure that you're backing cloth is nice and straight and very tight. The tenants of the cloth will help your gun make clean straight lines and will prevent any tearing before transferring your print. Make sure that if there's a particular direction you want, e.g. if you're using words that you flip it first, remember that you are creating the pattern from back to front or whatever your design is, will be mirrored on the front of the rug. Once you have your design finalized, it's time to pick out your yarn. Remember, wool yarn is the most durable, but also the least bright. So if you want a rug that's gonna be on the floor, especially in a high traffic area. We want to use wool, the most available affordable yarn and also in the brightest colors has to be acrylic yarn. You're making an art piece. Acrylic yarn is probably the way to go. With your design transferred and your urine all picked out. You're ready to start drafting. Remember to put on your safety gear before you begin, you'll want an anti vibration gloves and dust mask. When you're tough thing. Try to use straight lines as much as possible and try to always go in the same direction as much as possible throughout your entire rug. Remember that for going around curves, you can slow down your gun by tapping the trigger. And there's also a speed dial on the bottom handle of your gun. At this point is also important to remember that you can fix any mistakes you might make. If you put yarn somewhere you don't want it. It's very easy to pull it out and just retyped over that area. If you make a small hole and you're backing cloth, you can usually just tucked over it going in the opposite direction. If you make a larger whole and you're backing cloth, you can talk to round it and then so on a patch over top of it using same primary backing cloth that you're currently using. And then Tufte over that. You'll end up with a seamless patch on the front. Once you're tough thing is all done. Time to glue it up. It's very important to clip your project because nothing is permanent until it's glued down. This is another point where you need to consider the final goal for your rug. If you want your road to be used on the floor, you want to use a stronger glue, especially a latex based glue. Using a pure latex glue is your best bet, but because it's extremely hard to find, you can also use carbon adhesive or floor adhesive that should be available at any hardware store. When you're using latex glue, make sure you're using a ventilator because the chemicals can be quite nauseous. If your piece is an art piece, or especially if it's going to be around children or pets, I recommend using a PVA glue. There are both waterproof and not waterproof PVA glue is a wood glue is going to be much more water resistant. And you can find that at any hardware store. When you've decided on your glue, it's time for the glue up. Make sure that your rug is still on the frame and full taught and apply a thin layer over every area of the rug. You can overlap the edges of the backing fabric a little bit just to make sure those edge pieces are really glued down nicely. You want to leave your rug on the frame until it is thoroughly dried, depending on your glue, this can take anywhere from several hours to a couple of days. Or the PVA glue that I use, I usually my rungs overnight and they're good to go the next day. What's your clothes dried? It's time to decide on backing. Whether or not you back your rugs is completely elective. So this is another decision that you need to make for your own personal project. Personally, I prefer to back my rugs because it adds some durability and a bit of professional touch. I like to use fleece or felt for backing my rugs. But you can use any material that takes your fancy unless I'm backing. We covered two different types of backings. The waterfall edge and the whip stitch. Waterfall edge is perfect for larger rugs and is much, much faster. Whip stitch adds a nice extra border. So especially if you have not added an extra border. In the toughening process, you might decide to go for a whip stitch instead. In the end, whether or how you back your rugs is entirely up to you and your personal preferences. Once you've decided how to handle the back of your drug handbook cleanup, you can use scissors or an electric razor to clean up the pile of your rug so to make it as flat and even as possible. You can also clean up the shapes by putting your scissors down into the pile of the rug and cutting on a slight diagonal. This will just help differentiate the shapes a little bit. While you're in the cleanup process. You also want to make sure to trim all the way around the edges to make sure they look smooth. And even. This one will elevate your road to the next level and get a nice professional edge. Just to recap all the steps you're going to follow for your project. Make sure they keep your design shapes simple to make them easy for toughening your goals in mind when you're at purchasing your materials, the type of glue or urine that you want to use should depend on the final product that you want to produce when you're testing, remember to toughen straight lines all in the same direction as much as possible. And that you can tap the trigger on your gun to be around curves to make that process a little bit easier. I remember during the toughening process that you can fix any mistakes. Nothing is permanent until it's glued down. Also remember that gluing things down at the end is very important for the longevity of your rug. Remember that backing your rug is elective, but it does increase the durability of your rug and gives a nice professional finish. Also, be sure to take your time cleaning up your rug. More time you spend cleaning your rug more professional is going to look in the end. Your final step is to share your projects. I'm really excited to see what everyone creates with this course. And I'm sure that your coursemates are also really excited to see what you create. 10. Final Thoughts: To wrap up, I want to thank you for taking my class and invite you to reach out if you have any questions. I covered a lot of material in this course. And really we're just scratching the surface is of course cover a wide range of rock types of materials and uses the return to play around with them and find a combination that works best for you. It may seem intimidating at first, but remember that wrong toughening is really fun and forgiving medium. So don't be afraid to jump in, get your hands dirty, and get started right away. And of course, please remember to share your work. I'm really excited to see what you'll create. Thanks.