Transcripts
1. Introduction: [MUSIC] Hi, welcome to this class. My name is Lisa, and I'm a watercolor artist
and educator from Malaysia. I've been painting since 2017 and florals are one of my favorite
subjects to paint. You can find me on Instagram, where I share all my artworks and also some
painting tutorials. In this nine-day
watercolor challenge, we are going to paint nine
different floral compositions. Each painting will take about 9 to 16
minutes to complete. We will begin by practicing
some basic brush strokes. Next, I will share with you the watercolor techniques that I often use in my
floral paintings, such as wet-on-wet and lifting. We will also do a simple wet-on-wet exercise
where we will use a variety of paint consistencies to see how each react
on the wet paper. We will then begin our
daily challenge with some simple florals which
are beginner-friendly. In this class, you will
learn how to create lovely florals using the
wet-on-wet technique. You will also learn
how to create soft and lovely textures
in your flowers, and you will learn how to
vary the consistency of your paint to achieve different
results in your painting. This class is suitable
for all levels, and it will help you build a
consistent painting habit, as well as improve your
paintings skews and techniques. If you're ready for
this challenge, let's get started, and I'll see you in
the next lesson.
2. Materials Needed For This Class: Let's start with the papers. In this class, you will need
100 percent cotton cold pressed watercolor
paper in 300 gsm. I'll be using this Baohong
Academy Watercolor paper, is a 100 percent
cotton, cold pressed, watercolor paper in 300 gsm. I also have it in
a smaller size. Let's move on to the brushes. You will need round
brushes for this class. I'll mainly be using these two silver
black velvet brushes, a size 6 and 8. Now if you don't
have a size 8 brush, you can just use a size 6. You will also need
some smaller brushes, either in a size 2 or 3. Here, I have two size
2 round brushes. The one on the left is
a natural hair brush, and the one on the right
is from Princeton Snap. I also have a size
6 synthetic brush, this is from Princeton Snap. I'll also be using this
Chinese calligraphy brush. The bristles are long and thin and it's quite similar
to a liner brush. If you don't have this, you can just use
a liner brush or just use any round brush
with a pointed tip. Now to mix your colors, you will need a palette or
you can just use any plate. You will also need
some paper towels to remove excess moisture and
paint from your brush. This is actually very important when we are
painting wet-on-wet. Lastly, you need
some clean water. These are the colors that
I'll be using in this class. I've prepared a swatch for you so that if you don't
have these colors, you can just use any similar
colors from your palette.
3. Brushstrokes : In this lesson, I'm
going to show you some simple brushstrokes which you can use to
paint your petals. [NOISE] Let's start with the
most basic brushstrokes. Just start at the
tip of your brush, press dragging your
brush, and lift. We can paint this in
different directions. We can also make them
a little bit curve, almost like a C-stroke. Now let's combine these
brushstrokes to form a petal. We can also make downward
strokes to form our petals. [NOISE] You can also use the side of your brush
to create a broader stroke. You can paint them diagonally or just make
a downward stroke. You can vary the
pressure on your brush to vary the thickness
of the stroke. Practice painting these
in different directions. Now let's form a petal using two sides strokes and
the basic stroke. [NOISE] The next stroke will be thin strokes. Just use the tip of your brush to create
some thin strokes. You can make them a
little bit curve. You can play around with
all these brushstrokes to create petals of
different sizes and shapes. You can experiment with
different combination of brushstrokes to see what
shapes you can create. [NOISE] You can also make quick strokes
to get some wispy effect. You can also add additional
strokes to alter its shape, and if you do this while
the paint is still wet, you won't get any hard edges. You can practice painting your petals in
different directions. You can keep adding brushstrokes until you
get your desired shape. We can add these thin
strokes to the side of our petal to create
lightness and movement, this also creates a wispy
look for our petals. Basically, you can create
petals of varying shapes and sizes by combining
these brushstrokes. If you want to create
a longer petal, just drag your brush, and you can vary its shape by varying the brushstrokes
that you add to it. [NOISE] You can also paint a curvy stroke and
combine it with other strokes. Now, we can also use these brushstrokes
to paint our leaves. Practice painting
these brushstrokes, and you can experiment with different combinations to see
what shapes you can create.
4. Watercolor Techniques & Paint Consistencies: In this lesson, I'll show you the watercolor techniques that
we will use in this class. The first technique is
the wet on wet technique. This is basically just painting
on a wet or moist paper. When we apply wet
paint on a wet paper, the paint will spread and bleed. This creates some
lovely, soft textures. We can use this technique
when we want to create some soft edges
in our paintings. Now, if we vary the
paint consistency, we will get different results. I have three
different consistency of paint mixture in my palette. The first one has a
thick consistency, which means there are more pigments than
water in this mixture. This is a thick and
creamy mixture. You can see that it looks really dark and saturated on the paper. The second one has a
medium consistency, so the amount of pigments and water in this mixture
is almost the same. The last mixture has
a thin consistency. There is a lot of water in this mixture and
not much pigments. You can see that it's
very light and diluted. Now, let's see how these three mixtures
react on wet paper. I'll just wet this
section with some water. I'll start with the thinnest
consistency of green. Notice how fast this spreads. Next, I'll draw in a
medium consistency of green and followed by a
thick consistency of green. Let's repeat this a few times. You can see the difference
between these three mixtures. The one with the
thickest consistency doesn't spread as much
as the other two, whereas this one here with the thinnest consistency has spread all over the wet paper. With the thickest consistency, we can still get some
soft and defined edges, whereas this one has
completely lost its shape. The important thing to remember is that the thicker
the paint consistency, the less it will
spread and bleed, whereas a thin consistency
of paint will spread more. You can control the
spread of your color by adjusting the
consistency of your paint. Another thing to remember is
that the amount of water in your brush can dilute
your paint consistency, so always remember to
remove excess moisture from your brush before you load
your brush with any mixture. Now, let's move on to
the next technique, which is the lifting technique. We use this technique
when we want to create highlights and to
correct any mistakes. We can only do this as long as the paint is not
completely dry. We need to use a clean damp
brush to remove the paint. Always use a paper
towel to remove any excess moisture
from your brush.
5. Wet-On-Wet Exercise: Let's do a simple
wet-on-wet exercise using different
paint consistency. I'll show you how
you can achieve different results by varying
your pink consistency. We are going to paint
some simple florals, and we are going to use three different
consistency of paint. Now you can use any
color for this practice. [NOISE] Let's start with a
thin consistency of paint, and we'll paint a simple
five petal flower. I'm re-wetting these petals
to make sure they stay wet when I drop in
my darker colors. [NOISE] Next, dropping a medium
consistency of paint. I'm using a medium
consistency of orange. You can see that this
spreads quite a bit, but it doesn't spread
all over the place. [NOISE] Now, let's drop in a
thick consistency of paint. You can see that this has
a more controlled spread, and it doesn't spread as
much as the orange mixture. In this flower, we can
still see all three colors, red, orange, and yellow. This is because we
increase the consistency of paint with each
subsequent layer, so the thicker the consistency, the less it will spread. Now, let's add in a
stem for this flower. You can see that I've got
some green bleeding in, this is because the
petals are still wet. Now, let's add some leaves. I'm using a thin
consistency of green, and then I'll drop in a medium consistency of
a darker shade of green. The medium consistency of green doesn't spread that much, the base layer is still visible
and this is what we want. Now, we'll do the same
for the other side. Now I'll drop in a medium
consistency of shadow green, and I'll also draw a small amount of this
on the first leaf. Now, let's paint
our second flower. Again, I'll use a
thin consistency of paint for the first layer. I'm using lavender. I'm re-wetting the
petals to make sure there are no dry areas, before I drop in my medium
consistency of paint. Now, let's drop in a medium
consistency of blue, now I'll drop in a thick
consistency of violet. As you drop in your thicker
consistency of paint, you can switch to
a smaller brush, so that you don't unload too
much paint on the wet paper. Again, I have a bit
of green bleeding in. Sometimes we want this effect, it depends on what
we're painting. Now, let's paint some leaves. Again, I'm starting with
the thin consistency, and then I'll drop in a medium consistency
of a darker green, and I'll do the same
for the other leaf. Now for our last flower, I'll paint a side flower. I'm starting with a thin
consistency of lavender, making sure that
the petals are wet before I drop in my next color. Now let's drop in a medium
consistency of Blue Lake, and followed by a thick
consistency of violet. So each time you tap your
brush on the wet paper, it releases more paint. Now, let's add a stem
and some leaves. You can see that by varying
the consistency of our paint, we can control how much the paint will
spread on wet paper. Remember this, when
you're using the wet-on-wet technique
to paint your florals.
6. Day 1 : Purple Florals: Welcome to day 1. We will start our
daily challenge with something simple and easy. So we'll treat it like
a warm-up exercise. We are going to paint
these purple florals. Now for the colors, we will use violet and
yellow to paint our flowers. I'll be using permanent
yellow deep and lemon yellow for the flower center. You can also use cadmium yellow instead of
permanent yellow deep. For the leaves and stems, I'll be using green
earth and shadow green. Now feel free to use any
greens from our palette, but just make sure that you have a lighter shade of green and
a darker shade of green. Before we start painting, I'm going to prepare a very
diluted mix of violet. This has a very
thin consistency. You can see that is
very runny and diluted. We are going to use this as the base color for our flowers. I'm going to place a yellow dot. This will serve as a guide
for the flower center, and you paint the
petals around this dot. I'm using my size 8
Silver Black Velvet Brush and I'm fully loading
my brush with the mixture. Now I'm going to leave
some white space around his dot because later on, I'm going to come back in and fill in the center
with more yellow. When you're painting the petals, make sure to use
a very wet brush. This will make it easier to
paint and at the same time, it would be easier for you to alter the shape of your petals. To make your painting
look more natural, try to vary the shape
and size of each petal. They don't have
to look the same. You can do this by
varying the length and thickness of
your brushstrokes. [MUSIC] Now, at this stage, if you find that some
petals are starting to dry, you can go over them with a thin layer of paint
just to rewet them slightly because we need them to stay wet when we
drop in our violet. [MUSIC] Now let's drop in some
violet on the center. [MUSIC] This is in-between a medium
and thick consistency. Remember to leave a
bit of white space here because later on, we'll come back in to
darken the center. Now let's paint
our second flower, and we repeat the same
steps from earlier on. [MUSIC] Now I'm going to lift
out some of that yellow which has bled into this petal. Once I've removed the yellow, I'm going to rewet it with a bit more purple paint before dropping in the
concentrated violet. [MUSIC] Now let's attach some
stems to these flowers. I'm using my size 6 brush. You can leave a tiny gap
between the stem and the flowers so
that you don't get any green bleeding
into the petals. [MUSIC] We will paint a side flower on the right. So I'm going to create a
three petal side flower, and I'm going to vary the
thickness of each petal. Now let's attach a stem
to this side flower. I've made a mistake here. I should have dropped in the concentrated purple
instead of the green. What I'm going to do now is to lift up that excess green, and then I'll drop in
the concentrated violet. [MUSIC] While the paint is still wet, I'll use the tip of
my brush to draw out the purple pigments to create some themes and shadow
lines in the petals. Now that we are done
with the petals, let's move on to the leaves. I'm loading my brush
with some green earth. You can vary the size of your leaves and paint them
in different directions. You can also paint some
a bit darker and some a bit lighter by varying the
consistency of your paint. This will add depth to our painting so that it
doesn't look too flat. [MUSIC] Painting the leaves in
different direction will also add life
to our painting. Now I'm going to drop
in a bit of shadow green while the
leaves are still wet, and I'll let that
bleed a little. This actually adds more contrast and it gives our leaves
a two-tone effect. [MUSIC] Now for the finishing touches, I'm going to fill in the flower center with
some lemon yellow, followed by some
permanent yellow deep. I'm just making little dots. Now you might get
some color bleeds here if your purple
paint is too damp. For me, I don't really mind. But if you want to
avoid color bleeds, just wait for the paint to dry before you add in
the yellow center. One final step before
we finish our painting, I'm going to add a Sapo here. Okay. This completes
our painting. I hope you enjoy painting this, and I'll see you in day 2.
7. Day 2 : Pink Florals : [MUSIC] Hi, welcome to day 2. Today we are going to paint this simple composition
of pink florals. For the flowers, we'll
use yellow ocher, quinacridone rose, and sepia. Now if you don't have
quinacridone rose, just use any pink or
red from your palette. For the leaves and stems, I'll be using green
earth and shadow green. For the base color
we are going to use a very diluted and watery
mix of yellow ocher. I'll also prepare a
medium consistency of quinacridone rose. Later on we will drop this color on the base layer
while it's still wet. Now for the petals, feel free to create
your own petals. You can create any shape and
also any number of petals. You can also make them a
bit irregular in shape. They don't have
to look the same. Before proceeding
to the next step makes sure your
petals are still wet. If there are any areas
which are starting to dry, just re-wet them with
a bit more paint. Because in the next
step we are going to use the wet-on-wet technique. Now let's drop in
some quinacridone rose on the center
and let it bleed. You can adjust the consistency of this mixture accordingly. If you want it to bleed less, just increase the consistency
by making it a bit thicker. If you want it to bleed more, just reduced the consistency by making it a bit more watery. Next, I'll load
my size two brush with some sepia and I'll draw some stamens and let display
into the wet petals. The consistency of this sepia
mix must be thicker than the quinacridone rose so that
it doesn't bleed too much. Now let's move on to
our second flower. For this flower, I'll
paint the petals a bit larger and also
paint less petals. You can see that I'm painting
with a very wet brush. Now there are two
reasons for this. The first reason is so that these petals will
stay wet a bit longer and the second reason
is it will be easier for me to adjust the shape without leaving any hard edges. Now because this
petal is quite large, I'm going to leave a gap here. This will give the illusion that this petal is behind
the first flower. Again, you want to make
sure that your petal are wet before you drop in
your quinacridone rose. Now let's darken the center
with a bit of sepia. I'll also draw some thin lines to give the illusion
of statements. Now let's move on
to the next flower. I'm going to paint
a site flower. Then I'll drop in some
quinacridone rose at the base, followed by some sepia. Now let's attach some
stems to our flowers. I'll just thicken the
stems a bit more. Now let's add our leaves. To add interests to
our composition, we will paint leaves of varying
shapes, size, and colors. We also vary the directions
of these leaves. This will add depth to our painting and make
it look less flat. Let's add some smaller
leaves over here. We can also add
some stem sticking out just to add a
bit of variety. To finish off the painting, I'll add to larger leaves on the left. We are done.
8. Day 3 : Yellow Florals: In this lesson, we
are going to paint this composition
of yellow flowers. These are the colors
that we will use. Permanent yellow
deep, burnt sienna, green earth, and shadow green. We also use cadmium red
light from white nights. We are going to use the wet
on wet technique to paint these florals so we have to work fairly quickly before
the base layer dries up. For the base layer we will use a thin consistency of
permanent yellow deep, and then we would drop in a medium consistency
of burnt sienna, followed by a creamy consistency
of cadmium red light. Let's start with
our first flower. We are going to paint
a five petal flower, and we want the base
layer to stay wet when he drop in our
burnt sienna and cadmium red light so make sure that you're painting
with a very wet brush. Now, before you're dropping
your burnt sienna, just make sure that this
base layer is still wet and if there are any areas
which are starting to dry, just go over them with
a bit more paint. Now let's drop in some cadmium
red light on the center. You can see that this
doesn't spread as much as the burnt sienna
because we are using a thicker consistency
of paint here. Now let's move on
to our next flower. I'm going to paint
a site flower, and I'll vary the shape of each petal to make it
look more natural. While the base
layer is still wet, I'm going to quickly drop in some burnt sienna at the base, and let it bleed into
the yellow petal. Then I'll drop in my thick consistency of the
cadmium red light. Now let's move on
to our last flower where I will paint another
five petaled flower. Now let's drop in
our burnt sienna. I'll also drop in a bit
on the edges and deeply. Next we are dropping our cadmium
red light on the center. Now that we're done
with the flowers, we can move on to the
stems and leaves. I'm loading my brush
with some green earth and let's attach some
stems to these flowers. We paint these leaves in
different directions as this creates movement in a painting and add interest to
the composition. Now, make sure to vary the shape and size
of your leaves. You can also paint
some a bit darker and some a bit lighter so you can use different shades
of green arches to vary the consistency
of your green mixture. This will add depth to our painting and prevent
it from looking flat. [MUSIC] Now let's add some
different elements to this composition. We'll paint some flower buds here in this upper right corner. Now let's paint some
stems and leaves and connect these flower
buds to the main stem. [MUSIC] Now, for our final step, we will darken the flower
center with some sepia. Just make some
shots strokes while leaving some white
spaces in between them. This completes our painting. I hope you enjoyed
painting this, and I'll see you in
the next lesson.
9. Day 4 : Daisies: Hi, welcome to day 4. Today we are going to
paint some lovely daisies. The colors that I'll be
using are Petersburg ocher, shell pink, red brown, yellow ocher, burnt sienna, sepia, green earth,
and shadow green. For the petals, we are
going to use two colors. The first color is
Petersburg ocher and the second color
will be a mixture of shell pink and Petersburg ocher. This is Petersburg ocher. If you don't have this color, you can replace it
with yellow ocher or Naples yellow or
even John brilliant. This is a mixture of shell
pink and Petersburg ocher. You can also get this shape
by mixing Naples yellow or yellow ocher with
a bit of red or pink and just add a
bit of white to it. Make sure that you prepare
a sufficient amount of color mixture before
you begin painting. Let's start with
our flower center. I'm using a medium
consistency of yellow ocher and then I'll load my size 2 brush with
some burnt sienna and I'll mix some dots along the lower edge off this center. This looks a bit flat, so I'm going to
create a highlight by lifting out some color
from the center. We'll paint some petals using Petersburg ocher and
the remaining petals with our mixture of Petersburg ocher and
shell pink so there'll be some color variation in our daisy and this will
prevent it from looking flat. We can also add some
thin strokes next to the petals to give
it a wispy look. Now if you find it uncomfortable
to paint at this angle, just rotate your paper. [MUSIC] Next, we'll add some lines
on some of the petals. This will give you a bit of texture as well as the
illusion of shadows. I'm using my size 2 brush, and this is a thin
mixture of red brown. You can also use burnt sienna if you don't have any red brown. Now let's darken
the lower edge of the center with some sepia. This is in between a medium
and bit consistency of sepia. I'm just making dot light marks and letting some of it
bleed into the petals. This creates a very nice
effect on the petals. I'll also add some
very fine dots to fill in those gaps
between the petals. Now let's work on
our second flower. This will be a side daisy. We'll make it look a bit like a cone flower where the
petals are curved downwards. It looks a bit like
a beauty daisy. The steps are similar
to our first flower. I'll drop in some burnt sienna while the base is still wet, followed by some sepia. [MUSIC] Now let's add the petals. Some petals are painted
with Petersburg ocher while the others are painted with the shell pink and
Petersburg ocher mixture. [MUSIC] The center looks a bit flat, so I'll make it a bit higher. Now it looks a bit better. Next, let's add
the shadow lines. [MUSIC] I'll add some textures
on the center. Now let's add some curvy stems and let them overlap each other. [MUSIC] Let's paint
a flower bird above the first daisy and a smallest side
daisy on the right. I'll paint this sepal first and then I'll add petals
of varying sizes. [MUSIC] For the last step, you add some shadow lines. It's okay if we have a bit of green bleeding
into the petals, it actually makes it look
a bit more interesting. Now let's add a
flower pattern on the right just to fill in
this empty space here. [MUSIC] We also need some elements on the left to balance out the composition, so let's paint in
other side daisy here. We'll make this
daisy face downwards just to create a bit of
variety in the composition. [MUSIC] Now let's add some shadow lines, and I'll darken the
sepal a bit more. For our final step, I'll paint some
leaves on the right. I'll just make some long, thin strokes with
my size 2 brush. We are done. Thank you for watching and I'll
see you in day 5.
10. Day 5 : A Composition of Side Flowers: [MUSIC] Welcome to Day 5. Today we are going to paint this simple composition
of side flowers. We are going to use the
wet-on-wet technique to create some soft and lovely
textures in the petals. As usual, I'll be using
a limited color palette. Here are the colors:
yellow ocher, quinacridone rose, green
earth, and shadow green. [MUSIC] For the base color, I'm going to mix the
yellow ocher with a bit of quinacridone rose to
create a peachy color. We'll add a lot of
water to it because we want a thin consistency
of this mixture. Now let me show you the color. This will be the base color
for our side flowers. [MUSIC] We'll use a
medium consistency of quinacridone rose to create the soft textures
in our flowers. [MUSIC] Let's start by placing a dot to indicate
the base of the flower. Fully load your brush
with the base color. Now it's easier to
paint with a wet brush, and it also allows us
to alter the shape of our petals without
leaving any hard edges. [MUSIC] I'm going to paint
a four-petal side flower. [MUSIC] All these petals will
meet at the base, which would then form the sepal. Now, before we move
on to the next step, we have to make
sure that there are no dry areas on our petals. If there are any dry areas, just re-wet it with
a bit more paint, because in the next
step we are going to use the wet-on-wet technique. Now let's load our size 2
brush with some pink and we'll make some thin strokes following
the curve of the petals. You can vary the
thickness and length of these strokes to
create some variation. [MUSIC] Now let's paint a second flower pointing in the
opposite direction. Try to vary the shape of these petals to make it look different from
our first flower. [MUSIC] Once you're happy
with the shape, you can start adding
the pink strokes, but make sure there are no
dry areas on your petals. [MUSIC] Just add some random
strokes here and there, and make sure to vary the thickness and length
of these strokes. [MUSIC] Now let's darken
the base a bit more, and we'll also darken the
base of our first flower. [MUSIC] Next, we'll add the sepal and
attach that to a long stem. Here I'm using my thin
calligraphy brush. You can use a liner brush or just use the tip of
your round brush. We do the same for
our second flower. [MUSIC] Now let's move onto
our third flower. [MUSIC] For this final flower, we'll place it on the left. [MUSIC] Try to vary the shoot off this
flower if you can, to make it look different
from the first two flowers. [MUSIC] You can leave a bit of whitespaces in the petals to make
it look less bulky. [MUSIC] Once you're happy with
the shape of your flower, you can move on
to the next step. [MUSIC] Darken the base a bit more
before adding a stem. [MUSIC] Now that we're done
with the flowers, let's move on to the next step. Instead of adding leaves, we are going to add blades of grass overlapping each other, and we will vary the
color and consistency of our greens to get
different tonal values. This will add depth
to our painting. [MUSIC] You can also draw in a different
shade of green while the base
color is still wet. [MUSIC] Now for the finishing touches, we are going to create
some splatters in the background using the
peachy color from our palette. [MUSIC] Now that the flowers
have dried up, you can see the lovely
soft textures in the petals which were created using the
wet-on-wet technique. I hope you enjoy painting this and I'll see you
in the next lesson.
11. Day 6 : Warm Earthy Florals: [MUSIC] Hi, welcome to Day 6. Today we are going to paint some lovely florals
in warm earthy tones. The colors for this lesson
are Petersburg ocher, yellow ocher, burnt sienna, red brown, sepia, green
earth, and shadow green. Let's start with
our first flower. I'll load my size 2 brush with some yellow ocher and I'll paint some stamens
for the center. Next, I'll load my
size 6 brush with some Petersburg ocher and I'll
paint a five-petal flower. [MUSIC] I'll re-wet the petals in
preparation for our next step. Now let's drop in some
burnt sienna in the center, while the petals are still wet. Feel free to switch
to a smaller brush. [MUSIC] I'll also drop in a bit of burnt sienna on the
tips of some petals. I'm just using the tip of my brush to lightly
drop in the color. We can also spread out this
color towards the center. [MUSIC] Now let's move on to
our second flower. We'll start with
the stamens again, but this time we'll paint the
petals using burnt sienna. [MUSIC] As long as the petals
are still wet, we can adjust the shape without
leaving any hard edges. [MUSIC] Now let's drop in some red brown. [MUSIC] I'll create some
highlights in the petals using the lifting technique so that this flower
doesn't look too flat. [MUSIC] For the third flower, we'll use red brown
for the stamens. [MUSIC] This time I'll paint some loose and irregular
shaped petals using yellow ocher. If the stamens are still wet, we are going to get
some nice color bleeds into the petals. Now, I'll add some thin
strokes to fill in the spaces between the petals. While the petals are still wet, I'll also add in some
random strokes of red brown and let that
bleed into the wet petals. I'll also extend the
shape of some petals. Now let's move on to our leaves. For the leaves, we are
going to paint them in a very loose and
abstract manner. We'll vary their
color by mixing our green with the colors that
we use for our flowers. I can get different
shades of green by mixing my green with
Petersburg ocher, yellow ocher, and burnt sienna. We'll also add different
elements to our composition, such as some flower buds
and some stems sticking up. I'll paint some
smaller leaves next to the larger ones just
to increase contrast. Now let's work on
the other side. You can use the side of your brush to create
larger leaves. Now let's add some
smaller leaves on the upper-right corner and
we'll connect them to a stem. Basically we are
just painting leaves of varying size and colors, as well as different elements, such as stems and flower
buds around our flowers. We can add more contrast
to our composition by painting a darker and lighter
leaf next to each other. I'll paint a larger and
darker leaf here just to add some contrast and I'll also
paint some stems at the top. Now let's fill in this gap
with some flower buds. I'm using burnt sienna, but feel free to
use other colors. Switching to my size 2 brush, I'll attach some stems to these flower buds and I'll darken these leaves over here just to increase contrast. Now for the final step, let's work on our
flower centers. I'm making short thin strokes of yellow ocher while leaving
some white spaces. Now let's add in some sepia
using the same brush strokes, but make sure to leave some of the white spaces unpainted. This completes our painting. I hope you enjoy painting this
and I'll see you in Day 7.
12. Day 7 : Pastel Florals: Today we are going to paint some
floras in pastel sheets. The colors that I'll be using, are Petersburg Ocher, permanent Yellow Deep, Red Brown, Sepia, Green Earth, and Shadow Green. For the base color will
use a diluted mix of Petersburg ocher and we'll use red-brown for our main tones and also to paint the
veins on the petals. I'll load my Size 8 brush with the base color and let's
paint some large petals. As usual, I'm painting
with a very wet brush. We'll leave this center
unpainted for now. Since there's not enough space
for another large petal, I'll paint a smaller petal here. It's not important
for the petals to be of equal size and shape. Next, we wet the petals with a bit more paint cause I can see some parts are
starting to dry. Make sure that there
are no dry areas on your petals before you
draw in your red-brown. Now let's drop in some
red-brown on the center. Feel free to switch to a smaller brush for
better paint control. I'll also darken the
tips of some petals. Now, I'll remove excess paint on a paper towel and I'll gently spread out the reddish
brown color to lessen the contrasts
between the two colors. This step is optional. Switching to a Size 2 brush, I'm going to darken
the center a bit more and also along
some of the edges. This time I'm using a
more pigmented mixture. I'm working fairly quickly
before the paint dries out. Now, if your petals
are starting to dry, it better to stop and
let it dry completely. Once it is completely dry, you can re-wet it with some clean water and continue
to draw in the red-brown. Now let's move on to
our second flower. I'll load my Size 8 brush with some Petersburg ocher and let's paint a
four-petal size flower. Now, you can leave a bit of whitespace in
between the petals. Now, let's drop in some
red-brown at the base. Next, I'll use my Size 2 brush
to spread out the color. I'm using the tip of my brush. We also darken the tips
and edges of the petals. Now, let's paint some stems. I'm loading my Size 6 brush
with some green earth. Now if your flower is still wet, just leave a tiny gap
between the stem and the flower so that you don't get any green bleeding
into the petal. Our paint is sepia on this site flower and
attach a stem to it. For this side, flower
is okay to allow some green deeply in. We can add some leaves
and stem sticking out, just to make it look a
bit more interesting. I'll add a bit of red
brown to my green to create a warmer
shade of green. Now we can drop in
a darker shade of green while the base
layer is still wet, just to create some color
variation in our leaves. We can also vary the
thickness and color of our stems just to add some contrast and
depth to our painting. Over here, we'll
extend a side stem upwards and I'll add a lighter
leaf and some small stems. I'll paint the side stem
behind this flower, just to add interest
to our composition. Try to vary the color, shade, size, and also the
direction off your leaves. This will add more depth
and life to your painting. Now, this looks a bit flat, so I'll drop in some
shadow green on the leaves and also darken
some parts of the stem. To add depth to our painting, we can paint some
stems a bit lighter by using a thinner
consistency of our green mix. Next, we'll fill in the
remaining gaps with some flower buds,
leaves, and stems. I'll darken the stems a bit more before we move on
to our next step. Now let's add some
veins on our flowers. We'll use a diluted mix of red brown because we don't
want the veins to be too dark. I'm using my size 2 brush and will paint the veins following
the curve of the petals. Now, if the color
is a bit too dark, just add a bit more water to your mix and it
might be a good idea to test it out on a piece of scrap paper before you
paint them on your flower. We also vary the
length of these veins. Now let's move on
to our side flower. Again, we'll paint the veins following the curve
of these petals. Next, we'll fill in the
center with some yellow dots, followed by some sepia. So we just leave a bit of white space in
between these dots. Now let's add some finishing
touches to our painting. For the finishing touches, we'll add some splatters
on the lower right corner. I hope you enjoy painting this
and I'll see you in day 8.
13. Day 8 : Blue Floral Wreath: Hi, welcome to day 8. Today we are going to paint
this blue floral wreath. Let's talk about the colors. For the base color
of the flowers, you can use either
royal blue or lavender, and if you don't
have these colors, you can just use a diluted mix of any
blue from your palette. I'll be using royal blue
for the base color. I'll also be using
violet and blue lake. Now, blue lake is quite
similar to ultramarine. If you don't have blue lake, you can just use ultramarine. As usual, I'll be
using green earth and shadow green for the
leaves and stems. Before I begin painting, we need to prepare our colors. We need a thin consistency
of our base color [MUSIC] and a medium consistency
of our darker colors. Now for these two colors, we can still adjust their consistency later
on when we're painting. It will depend on how much
they spread on our base color. If we want them to spread less, we'll just add more
pigments to the mix. If we want them to spread more, we'll just dilute it
with a bit more water. Let's start with
our first flower, which is a front-facing flower. I'm using my size 8 brush and I'm making sure
that my brush is really wet so I can adjust the shape of the petals without
leaving any hard edges. [MUSIC] Since I'm running out of space, I'll just paint two
smaller petals here. It doesn't matter
if your petals are not equal in size and shape. [MUSIC] I'll rewet the petals
just to make sure they stay wet when we draw
in our darker colors. [MUSIC] Now, let's drop in
our darker blue. I'm using my size 6 brush, but feel free to use a smaller brush for
better paint control. I'm just randomly
dropping in the color. You can drop some on the edges and also on the
tips of the petals. But just make sure
not to overdo this because we still want our
base color to be visible. [MUSIC] Now at this stage, if the paint has started to dry, do not proceed with
the next step. It's better to let
it dry completely, and then you can rewet
it with a bit of water before you
draw in your violet. [MUSIC] As long as the
paint is still wet, we can continue
adding in colors. [MUSIC] Before we proceed with
the other elements, let's sketch the main
stem for our wreath. Just use your lightest green
and make some broken lines. Now let's add some leaves
around this flower. We will vary the
size, shape, color, and also the direction of these leaves just to add some interest
to our composition. We can also drop in
a different shade of green while the
paint is still wet. [MUSIC] Another way to vary the
colors of our leaves is by varying the paint consistency
of our green mixture. This will create
different tonal values and add depth to our painting. [MUSIC] Now we want the flowers to be the focal point
in this painting. So we'll just paint some smaller elements
along the main stem, such as flower buds, leaves, and side stems. [MUSIC] Let's paint the
side flower here. I'm loading my size 6
brush with the base color, and I'll vary the shape of each petal to make it
look a bit more natural. We attach this flower
to the main stem. Now let's drop in
our darker colors while the paint is still wet. I'm using my size 2 brush. [MUSIC] Now let's move on to the
upper part of our wreath. Let's paint another side flower, and we repeat the same
steps from earlier on. [MUSIC] Now let's drop in
the darker colors while the base
layer is still wet. I'm using a thicker consistency of violet for this side flower. So you can see that
it's darker in color and it doesn't
spread as much. [MUSIC] now let's complete our wreath
with some muted leaves. I added a bit of
violet to my green to create a muted
shade of green, and I'll use a thin consistency of this mixture to
paint the leaves. [MUSIC] For the final touches, just fill in any empty spaces with any elements
of your choice. [MUSIC] Now for the final step, let's paint a center
for our first flower. I'm using royal blue, and then I'll paint some
purple dots around it. I'll just add some
final touches on the upper part before we
finish off this painting. So this completes our painting. I hope you enjoy painting this
and I'll see you in day 9.
14. Day 9 : Anemones: Today we are going to paint this small bouquet of anemones. We are going to use
Jaune brilliant as the base color for our flowers, and for the textures, we will mix a shell pink
with a bit of red brown. For the darker shadows, we'll add a bit of violet to our shell pink and
red brown mixture. As usual, I'll be
using green earth and shadow green for
the leaves and stems. I have a diluted mix of Jaune brilliant and a medium consistency of shell pink
and red brown mixture. We are going to paint
a five petal flower, so just create a petal shape. It doesn't matter
what strokes or how many strokes you use
to create this shape, but most important is to
make sure that it stays wet. Let's add some textures. I'm using my size 6 brush, but you can switch
to a size 2 brush. We'll move on to the next petal and repeat the same steps. You can vary the thickness of the strokes to make it
look a bit more natural. Just repeat the same steps for the remaining petals. We need to paint fairly quickly before the
paint dries up. I'll switch to my size 2 brush to paint some finer strokes. Now for the shadows, I'll add a bit of violet to this shell pink
and red brown mix. It's actually better to prepare all your colors before you begin painting so that your paint doesn't dry out while
you're mixing the colors. You can see that the first petal was already dry when I added a stroke, so now I'm going to soften the stroke with a bit
of Jaune brilliant. I'll add a few more strokes before I move on to
the next flower. Let's paint a side anemone just
above our first flower. So this is shaped
like a cup where the petals in the foreground
are closer to us. We'll paint these petals first. We'll add some textures while
the paint is still wet. We'll paint two more petals and we leave a bit
of white space in between these petals
to separate them. Now let's add a bit of shadows
to create some volume. Now let's work on the petals in the background and we
repeat the same steps. You can always adjust the color of this mixture while
you're painting. So if it's too dark, just add a bit more
shell pink or water, and if it's too light, just add a bit more red brown. Now let's add a bit more
shadows to create more volume. I load my size 2 brush
with some green earth, and I'll paint some wavy leaves at the base of this anemone. We will let the green
bleed into the wet petal. Now to create depth, you vary the tonal
value of these leaves. So some will be a bit darker
and some a bit lighter. I'll add some smaller petals on the side to balance
out the shape, and I'll add more shadows
to some of the petals. Let's paint a thick
stem for this anemone. I'll just add a few
more leaves here. This looks a bit too dark, so I'll use the
lifting technique to remove the excess color. As long as the paint
isn't completely dry, we can use the lifting technique
to correct any mistakes. To add interest to
this composition, we are going to paint
an anemone bud on the left and will add some textures while
the paint is still wet. I'll leave a bit of
white space here to give the illusion
of a petal fall. Next, we add some shadows
to create volume. This has a medium consistency and I'm switching
to my size 2 brush. While the paint is still wet, I'll paint the sepal to allow
some green to blend in. Let's complete this part
with some wavy leaves. Again, we vary the tonal
value of these leaves. Let's add a fixed stem
overlapping the other stem. Let's attach a stem
to our first anemone. Now let's add some leaves
around this anemone. Again, we varied a tonal
value of these leaves by varying the colors and also
the consistency of our paint. Try to paint these leaves
in different directions, and also you can
vary the thickness of your strokes to
create a bit of variety. I'll darken the stems a
bit more because they look a bit pale
compared to the leaves. Let's paint a bit more
leaves around this anemone. Let's move on to the final step. We are going to paint the
flower center and the stamens. I mix indigo with red-brown for
the flower center. I use the tip of
my Size 2 brush to create these little
dots around the center, so these are the stamens. Let's attach them to the center. I'm using the tip of my brush to draw some really fine lines. For this side anemone, the center is partially
hidden by the front petals, so we will just paint
a small section of this center around
this front petal, this will give the illusion that the center is partially hidden. This completes our painting. I hope you enjoy painting this and thank you so
much for watching.
15. Bonus Lesson : Loose Abstract Florals: Welcome to this lesson. Today we are going to paint
some loose abstract florals. [MUSIC] The colors that I'm going to use
are yellow ocher, burnt sienna, violet, green
earth, and shadow green. We'll use a thin consistency of yellow ocher as
our base color, and then we'll draw in a medium consistency
of burnt sienna, and followed by a medium to
thick consistency of violet. Let's start with
our first flower, I'll load my size 8 brush
with some yellow ocher. [MUSIC] I'll paint some loose and
irregular shape petals by varying the shape and
length of my brushstrokes. [MUSIC] It's okay to leave a bit of
white space in the petals, this actually prevents it from looking too stiff and bulky. [MUSIC] I'm going to soak up these puddles of
paint with a damp brush, and at the same time, I'll spread them evenly
across the petals. Now let's draw in
our burnt sienna. This has a medium consistency. Now you can switch to a
size 2 brush to give you better control so that you don't unload too much paint
on the wet petals. [MUSIC] You drop
some burnt sienna on the center and along
some of the edges, as well as on the
tips of some petals. But be careful not
to drop in too much because we still want our
yellow ocher to be visible. [MUSIC] Now let's draw in some violet
before our flower dries up. [MUSIC] We need to
work fairly quickly. [MUSIC] I'm switching to my
size 2 brush so that I don't unload too much
paint on the wet petals, because I don't want
to cover up too much of my burnt sienna. [MUSIC] Now let's paint a side
flower on the right, I'm using my size 8 brush. Painting with a wet brush allows our brush to glide
smoothly across the paper, this makes it easier to
create losers strokes, and at the same time, it allows us to
adjust the shape of the petals without
leaving any hard edges. Now if there are
any large puddles of paint on your petals, you can remove them
with a damp brush. Otherwise, when you
drop in your color, it will just float
on top of the puddle and may leave some hard
edges when it dries up. Now let's draw in
our burnt sienna. If it spreads too much, you can just lift out the
color with a clean damp brush. [MUSIC] Next, I'll draw in some violet
on the base of the flower. Feel free to switch to a size
2 brush for better control. I'll also draw some veins using
just the tip of my brush. [MUSIC] Let's move on to
our final flower. We'll paint another
front-facing flower, and the steps will be the
same as our first flower. [MUSIC] Now let's drop in
some burnt sienna, again, you can switch
to your size 2 brush. [MUSIC] Now let's draw in some violet. You can adjust the consistency
of your paint accordingly. If it spreads too much, just thicken the consistency of your mixture by adding
a bit more pigment. [MUSIC] Now let's add our stems. [MUSIC] Let's paint some wavy stems. [MUSIC] Here I'll leave a small gap because I don't want any green to bleed
into the wet petal. Let's add a second stem, and let it overlap
with the first stem. [MUSIC] I'm just going to add a few simple leaves because I want the flowers to
be the focal point. [MUSIC] One last leaf over here. We are done. This is quite a
challenging piece to paint. If you don't get it
right the first time, just keep practicing, because, with the wet on wet technique, it does take a lot of
practice to get it right. Only with practice
and experience, you will know the right
timing to drop in your colors and how wet
your paper should be. Don't be afraid
to make mistakes, you can always try again. I hope you enjoy painting this and thank you for watching.
16. Final Thoughts: [MUSIC] Congratulations on
completing this challenge. I hope that you've learned
something new from this class. I look forward to seeing
your class projects, so please upload them
in the project gallery, or you can tag me at blue.lisart if you're
sharing on Instagram. If you have any questions, please post them in the discussion section and I'll get back to you as
soon as possible. Thank you so much for
joining this challenge. I hope you've enjoyed this class and I hope to see you
in my other classes.