3-Day Crochet Challenge: Make 3 Farm Animals & Grow Your Skills

1. 3-Day Crochet Farm Animal Preview : Learn how to crochet the cutest farm animals, even if you've never held a hook before. Hi, I'm Indi the French Canadian crochet designer known as Crochet Mill and I'm so happy to share with you this farm animal class. We'll start from zero and I will guide you step by step through the basics. While we crochet a little chick, a piglet, and a sheet. Right or left handed, everything is explained gently like we're crocheting together. Just one day you'll make your first tiny treasure and proudly say, I made this. At the end, you'll feel confident to keep exploring the world of Crochet Migueum. Let's get started. 2. Projects Intro: In this course, you'll be able to crochet three form animals from the easiest one to the complex one. Each little creature will integrate new technique. I can't wait to see your little creations. Don't forget to share them with me in the project gallery below. The left handed version is linked in the course description. To you in the next video to know the materials you will need. 3. Materials & Techniques: If you don't have the exact material I used for these tutorials, no worries. You can take any yarn you want. To be able to create the little chick, you will need about 25 grams of bulky yarn. I used the tube yarn. But you can take any worsted weight or bulky yarn in the color of your choice. You will also need a 3.5 millimeter hook, scissors, a yarn needle, a stitch marker, polyester stuffing. 12 millimeter safety eyes, but be aware to not use them if there is a chance that a children under 3-years-old could play with it as well as your pet. I've included an alternative with black yarn. You will also need a bit of white and orange yarn. With the first project, the little chick, you will learn how to hold the hook and the yarn and how to start a project in the round. For the pig, it's the same material except you will need about 40 grams of pink bulky yarn and a little bit of brown yarn. You will learn how to start with a magic ring, how to change color, and how to sew parts together. Finally, for the sheep, always the same materials, except you will need 40 grams of white bulky yarn and 10 grams of base yarn. By making the last project, you will learn the no saw technique, how to add parts by crocheting, and you will learn the popcorn stitch. Let's now start the little chick. 4. The Chick - The Basics: Welcome to your first crochet tutorial. Here, you will learn how to hold the hook and yarn and how to crochet the round to create a cute animal. You'll start by making a slip nut. It's similar to a regular not only you won't pass the end of the thread through the loop. The slip nut should come undone easily by pulling on the thread. I'll show you another way to tie it. Position the thread like this. With one hand, enter the loop to reach for the loose end, but hold it with your other hand. Find the other strand attached to the skin and pull on the loop. Tighten it a little because you are going to insert your hook into the loop of your slip nut. Tighten the knot around, but not too much. Your hook needs to be able to slide easily inside the loop. Your left hand will control the tension of the thread attached to the skin. You can position it like this. Open your hand, wrap the yarn around your little finger, passing it through the inside. And then turn your hand over and move it onto your index finger. And with your thumb and middle finger, you will hold the small knot you made. You will work this way. Your index finger will always be raised to control your tension. I'll show it to you again. You'll see after about 15 minutes, this movement will become very natural. Once you are properly positioned, you can hold your crusheHok in two ways. There's the knife or the pencil way. You can try both methods to see which one you are most comfortable with. Now we're going to make our first stitch, which is called a chain stitch. This is the foundation of every crusher project. The head of the hook facing you, you are going to pass the hook under the yarn, so you make a movement towards you. You are going to grab the yarn onto the head of the hook and pull it towards the loop to pass through it. Your index finger will help you control the tension so as not to tighten the loop. You make a small rotating motion of the hook head downwards so that it can go properly into the loop. Then you turn your hook upwards so that the yarn doesn't slip out. You've made your first chain stitch. We're going to make a second one. Throughout the project, try to keep a good length of yarn between your index finger and what you're doing to properly control the tension. You pass the hook under the yarn and bring it back towards the loop while rotating the hook head downwards. Make sure you have enough space to pass the hook through the loop. You can pull the hook up a little while pulling what you are doing downwards and also release the tension a little with your index finger so the yarn can pass through easily. You know, I'll have two chains. We would be ready to start the first round. But if you would like to practice holding the yarn and the hook more and get good tension, feel free to continue making chain stitches. And when you are ready to move on to the next step, simply undo the chains until you have two chain stitches under your hook again. When you have practiced enough, you can remove the hook from the loop and pull the urn until two chains remain, two small breads. And replace the hook in the loop. And the loop don't count as a chain. You only count what is below your hook. You're ready? Let's start the first. The basic stitch we're going to use is called the single crochet. I'll show you how to do it. Hold the loop on your hook with your right index finger, and you will insert it into the first chain stitch you made. You are going into the small loop at the top of the chain. Then you will pick up the urn, always passing the hook under it, and you will pass it through the chain stitch. Turn your hook upwards and reposition your fingers to carry the t loops that have formed on your hook. You will pick up your yarn again, always passing your hook under it. This movement is called a yarn over, and you will pull through the tu loops on your hook. Have just made your first single crochet stitch. Well done. It's important to take it very slowly at the beginning to properly understand the movement and maintain good positioning. Don't worry, it will go faster once you're used to it. We're going to place a marker on that single crochet, which will help you count your stitches and rounds correctly. But if you're afraid of losing what you're working on, it's not a big deal if you don't put it in right away. I'll show you how. The stitches always form a small braid made up of two strands on top. You can place your stitch marker in the If you have removed your hook, you can put it back in. Always in the direction in which you will be working from right to left and pull on the yarn to tighten the loop around it. We'll continue round one by making five more single crochet in the same chain stitch in the same space where you made your first one. You can see the little hole it makes. You're going to insert your hook inside. Place your right index finger on the loop so you don't lose it and enter the chain stitch. Yarn over, passing the hook under the yarn, pass it through this stitch. Reposition your fingers so that the two loops are clearly visible and not too tight on your hook. Make another yarno always the hook towards you and pull through both loops. You now have two single crushes stitches made. You can make four more still in the same space. Always in the starting chain stitch. There will be a total of six single crochet in round one. Try to always keep what you're making facing you so that it doesn't wrap around the hook. I'll let you work on making four more single crochet in the same space. And just a quick note, your left hand is supposed to help you. Keep your middle finger and thumb together and as close to the hook as possible while holding what you're doing. And to make your tension easier to manage, you can unwind a little bit the small skin. If you happen to miss a stitch or make one too many, there's nothing simpler than undoing it by pulling on the yarn. And then pressing the hook into the loop of the previous stitch. And you have now completed your six single crochet. You can see that they all form a small bread on top. So it's quite easy to count. Your first one being where your marker is. And if you haven't put a marker in, you can go backwards counting from the last one you made. I'm very sorry about the blur, but I didn't have clear take without my hands on it. The first round as well as the second are the ones that require more patience, given that we are working in a very confined space. So don't get discouraged. It's going to get more and more enjoyable the further the project progresses. For round two, we're going to work on each of the stitches we made in round one. We'll start in the stitch with the marker. So you can remove it, but remember where to go. And we're going to insert our hook into the two loops of the small braid that the single crushes stitch forms. Like this. You make a yarno. You pass through the stitch, through the two small loops where you entered. You make a yarno and pull through both loops on your hook. You have just made the first single crochet of round two. You can place your stitch marker on it, and since we want to enlarge our circle, we will make increases in each of the stitches. It's very simple. We're going to make two single crochet stitches in each of round one's stitches. You're going to enter the same stitch again and make another single crochet. You've just made an increase that is two single crochet in the stitch of the previous round. We will continue in this way all around. You will make two single crochet in each of the following stitches, always working through both loops of the stitch. You have made one single crochet. We're going to make a second one in the same space in the same stitch. Crochet is very mathematical. We started round one with six single crochet, now we double that. You should have a total of 12 single crochet in round two. At the end, count if you have made 12 single crochet in the round, counting each small break. This side is the right side of the project. Now, let's move on to round three. This time, we're going to increase every other stitch. You can remove your marker, and you're going to make two single crochet in the next stitch, which happens to be the first single crochet of round two. So we're making an increase of two single crochet in the same stitch. You can reposition your marker on the first one you make. And this time, since we're increasing every other stitch, you're only going to make one single crochet in the next one. This is where you need a little more concentration to remember when to make the increases. Next, you make two single crochet in the next stitch, an increase. One single crochet in the next stitch. You continue this method all the way around. You make two single crochet in the next stitch, followed by a single crochet in the next one, and you repeat. In crochet, increases will always be made proportionally wide across the round. As a general rule, the same number of stitches will always be increased on each round until the desired size is reached. You will therefore have a total of 18 stitches in round three. No Count if you have 18 stitches in round three. This is the right side, the good one, and this is the back side, where the beginning thread is and you can pull on it to just close well your circle. You will notice that the project tends to turn the wrong way as you progress through the runs. You can correct this by forcing it to turn the right way like this. The wrong side is a little less defined and the starting thread is there, so it's easy to recognize. Always keep in mind that you should crochet from the outside towards the inside of your project. What you see in front of you should be the right side like this. If you make a mistake and you no longer know if you've reached an increase or not, I'm going to give you a little trick to know how to recognize them. You can use your hands to fill the stitches. When it looks like this here, there is only one single rose in the stitch. You can see the difference here when there is an increase, when there are two single crochet in the same stitch, you can see that it forms a small cluster of two stitches in the same space, and it's totally normal if you're having trouble recognizing this right now, it will come with time. A little later, I'll show you how to count the rounds. Let's continue in the next video. 5. The Chick - Part 1: After watching the previous video, we've reached the fourth round. We're going to make proportional increases again. So we'll increase every third stitch. Start by making one increase, that is two single crochet in the next stitch. Where was your marker? Place your marker on the first stitch you made. Next, you will work one single crochet in the next two stitches. Two single crochet in the next stitch and increase. Followed by a single crochet in the next two stitches. And you continue this pattern all the way around. You will have a total of 24 stitches in round four. You can pause the video. We'll meet at the end of the round. As I mentioned in the previous video, your project is tending to go the wrong way. So just pop the project outwards to always crochet from outside to inwards. The right side is clearly visible. So count if you have 24 single crochet in round four. So far, your little chick should look like this. We'll count the rounds together. We can see the first one that makes the small circle in the middle. Next, you can see the lines that the single crusher form on each round. If you have forgotten to put your stitch marker and you're really lost, here's how to find the first stitch of each round. You'll notice that we're working in a spiral. The first single crochet of round two is right here. So the first single crochet of round three will be on this one. Since we made an increase, it will be the one furthest to the right, and you follow along with your eyes like this. The first single crochet of each round is on the first single crochet of the previous one. Don't worry, it's perfectly normal to have some difficulty seeing all of this at the beginning. It will come with time. That's why it's important to use a stitch marker so you don't have to think about it. Run five will be a simple one. You will work one single crochet in each of the following stitches for a total of 24 single crochet. And don't forget to place your stitch marker on the first stitch you make. I'll let you work. You only need to make one single crochet in each of the following stitches until the end of the run. At the end, count if you still have 24 single crochet in round five. Round six, we will increase once again proportionally. We left a normal round between the two to create a slightly more conical shape for our chick. So you remove your marker, and you're going to make an increase in the next stitch. Replace your marker on the first one. And this time, you will make a single crochet in the next three stitches. And you repeat all around an increase, that is two single crochet in the next stitch, followed by a single crochet in the next three stitches. You will have a total of 30 single crochet round six. You can pause the video. We will meet at the end of the round. It should look like this and count to see if you have really 30 single crochet in your round. The next seven rounds will all be identical. You will make one single crochet in the next 30 stitches. So you can switch your brain off, but don't forget to place your stitch marker on the first one of each round. We'll meet at the end of Round 13, and we'll count the rounds together to see if everything looks good on your end. At the end of round 13, it should look like this. We count them together. The first round, the little circle at the beginning. Next, you count each of the lines, the rounds form. The second round, third, fourth, fifth, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, and 13. I'll also show you how to count them starting from the first ditch of each round. The first one of round two here, round three, round four, Five, we didn't increase, six, we made an increase, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, and 13. If you choose to add the plastic eyes, this will be the time to do it. I'll show you how. Even though they're often called safety eyes, it's strongly not recommended to use them if you plan to give away or leave your creation around children under 3-years-old or animals. There is a risk of suffocation if they come loose. I've provided you with black thread if you'd like to embroider the eyes instead. This will be done at the very end of the project. And I've included a video of this alternative after this tutorial. We'll place the eyes between round eight and nine of the chick' head. Count from the first round. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, and nine. So it's really going to be between these two rounds. So you can put an I anywhere. And you will leave four stitches apart between the two eyes. My little trick is to count the gaps you see between the stitches. So you're going to place the second I in the fifth hole you see. If you're happy with the eye placement, you can lock them in place with the small plastic tabs. It's therefore important to be sure you put the eyes in the right place because you won't be able to change them after. Make sure you push firmly so they can't come out as long as you hear a click. And make sure the eye is properly secured. When everything looks good, reposition the chick on the good side and put the hook back into the loop. We'll continue in the next video. 6. The Chick - Part 2: Now we're going to start making decreases to close the check's body. Here's how to make an invisible decrease. You'll see either the abbreviation DEC or SC two together. We're going to make two single crochet become one. You will insert your hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches. The front loop being the loop closest to you. Then you will make a yarno and pull through these two loops. You can raise the handle of the hook to help you pull through. Then you will make a yarno and pull it through bold loops on your hook. You just made a single crochet over two stitches of the previous round, which makes a decrease. You can replace your stitch marker on this one. And you will make a single crusher in the next three stitches. Be careful not to go into one of the stitches where you made the decrease. A little trick I use is to pull on your hook. If you see the stitch move, it's already worked. You go to the next one. So we will go to this one. And try to tighten your stitch following the decrease by pulling on the yarn. This will prevent holes from appearing. Make two more single crushing and proceed with another decrease. We'll make them proportionally all around a bit like the increases. You will work into the front loop of the next two stitches like this. Yarn over and pull through these loops. Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook and continue by making a single crochet in the next three stitches. Once again, I pull on the hook to see which stitch is next. Tighten it well and continue with your next two single crochet. And you repeat all around a decrease, which is two single crochet together. Followed by a single crochet in the next three stitches. You will have a total of 24 stitches in round 14. Round 15 will be similar. Only after making a decrease, you will make a single crochet in the next two stitches. A and you repeat all around for a total of 18 single crochet. And don't forget to reposition your stitch marker on the first one. Again, if you're not sure which stitch is next, pull on your hook. If the stitch moves, it's not that one. It will be the next one. You make one single crochet in the next two stitches, always tightening the stitch following the decrease a little more and repeat all around a decrease followed by a single crochet in the next two stitches. You will have a total of 18 single crochet in round 15. I'll let you continue. At the end, count if you have 18 stitches in the wrong. Your little cheek should begin to close up nicely. On round 16, we will decrease every other stitch. You can make your decrease by entering the front loop of the next two stitches. Replace your marker, you will make a single crochet in the next stitch and repeat all around a decrease, a single crochet. You will have a total of 12 single crochet in the round. Since it's getting smaller, use your left hand to guide yourself so you always have the stitches facing you. You should finish with a single chet. Count to see if you have 12 stitches, and then it's time to stuff the chick with the fiber fill that's in your kit. Remove the hook. If the starting urn was ticking out, tuck it in and digin stuffing it. You can add small amounts at a time to ensure the filling is even. Ideally, it should be well stuffed, but not too much. The stuffing shouldn't be visible sticking out through the small holes between the stitches. So you can add more until you're satisfied that the head is nice and round. You can put the hook back into the loop. Now we're going to make the last round. To completely close the check, we're going to make six decreases in a row. The stuffing will be in the way. So use the middle finger of your left hand to push it away so that the hook doesn't catch the stuffing. And don't forget that you need to work into the front loops of the next two stitches to make the decrease. Since the space is much more restricted, it takes a little more dexterity, but don't give up. You're almost finished. For a knead or finish, you will make a slip stitch in the next stitch, the one with the marker. I'll show you how. You will insert the hook into both loops of the next stitch. You yarn over and pull through this stitch and through the loop on your hook. And that's it. You can take out the hook, cut the yarn leaving a good length, and secure your work. To do this, you pass your fingers through the loop and you find the end of the yarn and you pull. To close the last round, you take your yarn needle, which is in the same small bag where the eyes were, and you tuck the end of the yarn inside. You can either weave the yarning this way or fold the yarn back on itself to make it easier to thread through the eye of the needle. Next, you will weave this yarn in to the front loop of the next ditch from the outside in. And you will enter the singing to all the front loops of the following stitches, always by turning around and entering from the outside in. And at the end, you will pull on the yarn, and you will see that it closes up all by itself and that it gives a nice finish. Finally, you insert your needle right in the center and you bring it out anywhere between two stitches. And you pull to close a small hole. To secure the yarn, you could go back and forth like this between two stitches. Next, bring your thread to the very top of the chick's head. If the cheek has become misshapen by pulling on a thread, you can easily re position it with your needle. And don't cut the thread just yet. We'll continue with the other parts of the check. 7. The Chick - Part 3: To crochet the wings, we will do exactly as we did at the beginning of the project. You will start by making a slip note. Insert a hook into the loop and make two chains. This time, you will make five single crochet in the second chain from the hook. Once you have finished your five single crochet, remove the hook and cut the yarn, leaving a long end. Insert your fingers into the loop and pull up the yarn from the end to secure it. You can also pull on the yarn from the beginning to close your circle. And that's it for the first wing. You can make a second one just like it. I'll show you the instructions on the screen, but you can always rerun the video to review how to make it. Now that your two wings are made, we're going to sew them onto the chick. Insert the yarn from the beginning of one of the wings into your yarn needle and insert it on the side of the check right here. You can count three single crochet from the eye. And you go down one round. You should be between round ten and 11 of the check. So you insert the thread and bring it out just a little higher up anywhere. This will help us to properly attach the wing to the check before sewing it on. Position the right side facing up. So you should see the little braids pointing upwards. And with the end thread, you're going to sew the wing onto the check like this. We're going to sew it onto these three stitches. Insert the needle into the rightmost one. Bring the needle out and insert it into the middle of the wing. Insert the needle at the same point where you came out and bring it out again in the next stitch on the left. Insert your needle into the single crochet at the end of the wing right here. Re enter the needle at the same point you came out and go back to the beginning thread. Your wing is now securely sewn onto the check. And make a double nut with the tooth threads to secure what you just sewed. You can even them out to make it easier to tuck them in. And with your needle, bring them to the very top of the check. And do the same on the other side. It should look equal on both sides. Go ahead and bring the two strands to the very top of the check. All these strands will form the fetters on its head. Cut all the strings about an inch or 2 centimeters from the hip. With the orange thread, we're going to embroider the chick's beak and feet. So you can remove the thread completely and enter it into your needle. Enter the round that's right below the eyes and bring it out here. You should wrap two stitches around the needle. If some stuffing comes out, that's perfectly normal and you can clean it at the end. You'll make three loops with the thread to embroider the beak. Next, we'll unborder the feet. You can bring the thread back in at the same place you came out and bring the needle right here. This will be four rounds lower. So you should see four clearly visible rounds. Next, follow my movement to unbder the little feet. To make the second leg, bring the needle out at the same level, a few single crush it further. And you can refer to the video to know exactly where to go. And embroider the second foot. L and at the end, bring the thread out anywhere between two stitches. Check if everything looks good. Otherwise, it's very easy to just remove the thread using your needle and start again. Insert the starring thread into your needle and take the opportunity to make another turn around the beak before bringing it to the other one. Secure these threads in the same way as the wings by tying a double knot, and hiding them inside the check. This time, cut off the Xs. Unwind the white thread that was on the cardboard, insert it into the needle and we'll embroideer the white highlight on the outsides of the eyes. You can follow what I'm doing on the screen. Oh. If you tighten the eye clasp properly, it's possible that the white thread will slip over it. Continue with the steps anyway. And at the end, you just tighten the white thread more so that it stays securely in place. When you are satisfied with what you see, you can secure the threads by making double nuts and hiding them inside. B. I hope you find it very cute. At this stage, all that's left is to make the little feathers on the top of the head. You could leave the threads as they are, but to have the little nylon thread that just sticks out, you could cut what surrounds the thread, the little cotton envelope. So when you take your scissors to the inside and separate what is inside the envelope and you only cut what was around it. And you do this for all the strengths. And at the end, you can give it a little haircut. And there you have it. You finished your little chick, your first crocheted animal. I hope you enjoyed the experience and that you are very proud of your little creation. See you in the next video to level up your technique with the little pig. 8. The Lil Pig - Part 1: Welcome to the second level of the Farm Edition crochet kit. You will make the little pig. In addition to practicing the basic skills you already have, you will learn how to start your project with a magic ring, how to change color and sew different parts together. We will use the same stitch that you practiced in level one, the single crochet. You will just need a little more dexterity and patience to sew the parts together. But I'll guide you through each step. Are you ready? We will start with the pink color. I suggest you to pick up the thread that's in the middle of the skin so that it's easier to work with. You can start by using the technique learned in level one by making two chains and crochet the first round into the first one you made. Or I'll show you here how to make a magic ring or magic circle, which is super handy for starting a project in the round. By placing your yarn on the front of the hook, you wrap it twice around and hold the loops with your right index finger. Place the urn on your left hand for tension and hold the small circle formed with your middle finger and thumb. Simply grab the urn while passing it through the circle and make a chain stitch to secure everything. We will now work round one in this circle. Don't worry, it's normal not to succeed the first time. I'll show it to you again and leave a good length of yarn from the beginning to give yourself some slack. And you grab your urn anyway you like as long as you hook it onto the end of your hook and pass it through the ring. And don't forget to make a chain to secure what you just did. You'll see we'll have much more space to work the first round. You're going to make six single crochet in the ring. Try to keep the ring straight in front of you by using your thumb and the middle finger of your other hand. The circle shouldn't spin all the way around the hook. Try to keep it stable in front of you. When you have made your six single crochet, if you wish, you could place your stitch marker on the first one you made. But this is up snow for now. It's just going to be more on your way. Next, pull on the yarn from the beginning to close the circle. We're going to continue with the second round. We're going to continue round two on the first single crochet you made. If you haven't placed a stitch marker, you can simply count the small braids to find the first one. You are going to make an increase that is two single crochet into it. Always working into both loops of the stitch. After the first single crochet, you make a second one, always in the same place in the same stitch. Place your marker on the first one that you made, and you are going to make another increase, two single crochet in the next ditch. You might notice that I've changed the way I write the round compared to the first level. I'm writing the increase abbreviation instead of telling you to make two single crochet in the next ditch. It's just to get you used to the different ways that patterns are written. After making your two increases, you will make one single crochet only in the next ditch. And you repeat what is in the parenthesis once again. You will make an increase in the next two staches so two increases in a row. And you will finish with a single crochet in the last stitch. You should have a total of ten single crochet in round two. And if you're wondering why we didn't increase in each of the stitch, it's to create a more oval effect at the pigs nose. We'll be ready to move on to the next round. For round three, you must follow the instructions in order because nothing will be repeated. So you will begin by making a single crochet in the next stitch. Place your marker on it. Then you will make two increases in a row, so two single crushe in the next two stitches. Next, you will make one single crochet in the next three stitches. Then two increases in a row, two single crochet in the next two stitches. And in the last instruction, you will make one single crochet in the next two stitches. And you should have 14 single crochet in round three. You can see that the small oval shape of the nose is starting to appear. And as I explained in level one, when crocheting in the round, the project tends to roll inwards. So simply turn it over to always crochet from the outside, which is the right side of the project to the inside. Than the fourth round will be a simple one. You will make a single crochet in all the following stitches, but this time only into the back loop of the stitches. So usually you work through both loops. But here you will work only through the loop that is furthest from you. This will create a small line on the front of your project. You can place your marker on that stitch and continue by making a single crochet in the back loop only of all the following stitches. I'll let you continue working. We'll meet at the end of the round. You should finish just before the stitch where your marker is. You can see that this creates a small line that will add texture to the pig's nose. For the fifth round, we return as usual. We're going to work into both loops of the stitch. You will do a single crochet in the next four stitches. And don't forget to replace your marker after making the first one. And continue by making three more single crochet. And just a quick note. When you see simplify the instructions, when you see the abbreviation for increase, the number before the abbreviation for single crochet does not mean making four single crochet in the same stitch, but rather one single crochet in the next four stitches. Next, you will make four increases in a row. So two single crochet in the next four stitches. And if you got lost along the way wondering what you did a single crochet or an increase, try to take this opportunity to observe the difference between the two. When you make an increase, you can see that there are really two stitches on the same space. It makes a sort of small denser bouquet, whereas when there is only one stitch, you just see a small V formed by the single crochet. Over time, your eyes will become used to it, but it's good to observe it and know it to gain confidence. So continue to have four increases in total. And then you will make six single crochet in a row. So just one single crochet in the next six stitches. And you should have a total of 18 stitches and round five. The four increases we made in a row will form the pig's head. The sixth round will be a conventional increased one. The increases will be proportional all around. So start by making an increase in the first stitch. Place your marker on the first one. And you will make a single crochet in the next two stitches. And you repeat all around and increase to single crochet. You will have a total of 24 stitches in round six. I'll let you work. We'll meet at the end of the round. Count to make sure you have 24 single crochet in total. Round seven, you will make an increase followed by a single crochet in the next three stitches this time. Always place your marker on the first stitch of the increase and make your three single crochet. And you repeat all around and increase three single crochet for a total of 30 stitches in round seven. We need at the end of the round. Make sure your total stitch count is 30. And your little picture now look like this. See you in the next video to continue. 9. The Lil Pig - Part 2: If you have chosen to add the plastic eyes, this is the time to place them. I'm going to show you how. Even though they are often called safety eyes, it's strongly not recommended to use them if you plan to give or leave your creation lying around near children under 3-years-old or animals. There is a risk of suffocation if they come loose. I've provided you with black thread if you would like to embroider the eyes instead. This will be done at the very end of the project. And I've included a video of this alternative after this tutorial. We'll place the ice between round five and six. You can start counting from the fourth round, the one where the stitches were worked in the back loop only. You can see the small line, so you can count from there, starting with the first stitch of round four, the first one where the front loop is visible. So the fifth round would be just above. The first stitch of the fifth round, which is right next to the last little line that stands out. And you're going to count four stitches to the left to place the eye right here between the fifth and sixth round. It will happen to be right before the first of the four increases we made. The placement must be precise to follow the shape of the head. It should look like this. The shape of the head more oval pointing upwards. Next, you will place the second eye so that it is at the same level as the first, always between round five and six. Visually, both eyes should be at the same level and the top of the head should be centered between them. And if we want to be very precise, you should see all the increases in a row that we made on Round five plus a single crochet. When you are satisfied with the positioning, you can insert the plastic tips to securely attach the eyes. It's therefore important to be sure that you've put the eyes in the right place because they won't be able to be changed. Make sure you push them in firmly so they don't pop out. You should hear a click. And make sure that the eyes are properly fixed. We will continue with the following rounds. The next six rounds will all be identical. You will make a single crochet in all the following stitches. You should always have 30 single crochet in too in each round. And don't forget to always put your stitch marker back in the first one. I'll let you work. We'll meet at the end of Round 13, where we'll count them together. It should now look like this. We count the rounds together. We see the first one here, the small circle at the beginning, the second one which starts here. The third one, fourth, where we worked in the Bloop. The five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, 11, 12, and 13. You could also count starting from anywhere by following with your eyes the lines that the rounds form. Now, bring the brown yarn closer. We're going to start the color changes. To introduce you to the color changing technique, I've added some small mud spots to the tick. This is optional. If you ever want to continue making it all pink, you could simply ignore the color changes and work as in the previous rounds, a single crochet in each stitch. But I suggest you to try this little challenge. You will start by making ten single crochet with the pink color and place the marker on the first stitch. Remove your hook and count to make sure you have made ten single crochet. Pull the yarn to undo your last one you made because this is where we will join the brown yarn. So you will begin making your single crochet with the pink yarn. As usual, you enter the stitch, make a yarn over, and pass through the stitch and stop there before doing the last step. Instead, we're going to pull the brown yarn through both loops. And that's how we change color. We incorporate it into the last step of the last single crochet of the previous color, and you continue with the pattern. You will make two single crochet with the brown color. After making your first one, pull the threads from behind to tighten your color join. Next, you can make the second single crochet with the brown color. But be careful. You will have to change color again in the last step. So you insert your hook you yarn over, you pull through the stitch, and you stop there. Go and retrieve your pink yarn that you left behind and pull it through the two loops on your hook. It's a little more complicated to manage two colors at the same time, but it's a nice challenge. And then you continue by making a single crochet in each of the remaining stitches with the pink color. I'll let you continue. We will meet at the end of the round, and you'll notice that the pattern is really simplified to know when to change colors. So you know that everything will be done in single crusher stitches. So I put the corresponding color code next to the number of stitches to do. And at the end, you can make sure you still have 30 stitches worked in the round. Round 15, you will start by making 11 single crochet with the pink color. But be careful when you start the 11th stitch, you will add the brown yarn in the last step. The 11th should end up on the first brown stitch. So in the last step, you stop and pick up your brown yarn. Make sure you take the longest end of the yarn and pass it through both loops. And this time, you only have one brown single crochet to make. So you won't even complete one. You start by making your single crochet, and in the last step, you join your pink yarn that you left behind. Okay. And you continue with the pink color until the end of the round. In the next round, we're going to add two more small spots. So you'll have a little more color change to make. You'll start by making nine single crochet with the pink colour, keeping in mind that you'll need to join the brown yarn at the last step of the ninth stitch. This is where the color change will take place. So make your single crochet and pick up the brown yarn to pass it through both loops. Don't pull the yarn too tightly, give it some slack, so it doesn't pull too much and distort your project. You are going to make a single crochet with the brown yarn. So you immediately join the pinkworm You can pull the yarn at the back to tighten everything. Next, you will make three single crochet in pink. At the third stitch, join the brown yarn. You will make two single crochet with this color. At the end of the second one, join your pink yarn. And continue to the end with pink, single crochet stitches. It should look like this. I'll let you continue. We will meet at the end of the round. Un 17, this is the last one with the color changes. You should be very proud of yourself for having completed the sale challenge. You will begin by making nine single crochet in pink. On the ninth, you change color. You grab your brown thread, and pull it through both loops. It's quite far, so give it some slack so it doesn't pull on the project. Remove the thread that is on your way and make two single crochet with the brown yarn. At the second one, join the pink yarn that you left behind. And take this opportunity to pull on it to tighten everything you are doing. You will make two single crochet in pink. At the end of the second one, you join the brown yarn that you left behind. And you will make three single crochet in brown. At the third stitch, you join the pink yarn. And that's it for the color change. You make single crochet and pink in all remaining stitches. We will meet at the end of the round. At the end, since we have finished the color changes, you could make a double nut with the two brown strands to secure them. Don't pull too hard on the double nut to avoid distorting the project. We're just going to secure them and put them inside. See you in the next video where we will cause the little pig. 10. The Lil Pig - Part 3: Run 18, we're going to start closing the body of our little pig by making proportional decreases all around. I'll show you again how to make an invisible decrease, which transforms two single crochet into one. You will insert your hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches. Then you will make a yarn over, which you will pull through these front loops, yarn over and pull through both loops. Place your marker on this stitch and continue by making a single crochet in the next three stitches. To be sure to enter the correct stitch, pull on your hook. If this stitch moves, it's not this one. It will be the next. So you make three single crochet. And you repeat all around a decrease followed by three single crochet. Once again, I replaced the abbreviation Scitud together that you saw in level one by the abbreviation for decrease, which simplifies the pattern. I'll let you continue working. We need at the end of the round. At the end, you should have 24 stitches and toll in round 18. The next round will be similar, but after making your decrease, you will make a single crochet in the next two stitches and repeat all around. Mm You can pause the video. We need at the end of the round. You should have a tow of 18 stitches in round 19. You can remove your hook from the loop. We will start stuffing. Once again, it needs to be firm without the stuffing stacking out of the stitches. H Remove a little bit of stuffing so it's not in your way. Now we'll work the last two rounds. Round 20, you will make a decrease followed by a single crusher in the next stitch all the way around. Use the middle finger of your other hand to hold the stuffing away from the hook. You can pause the video. We'll meet at the end of the round. Count if you have 12 stitches and finish the stuffing. We will now work the last round. For the last one, you will decrease six stitches in a row. And for a kale finish, make a slip stitch in the next stitch, where the marker was. Insert the hook through both loops. Yarn over. You pull through the stitch and through the loop. Pull out your hook. Cut the yarn and secure it by passing it through the loop. And close the last round with your yarn needle by passing it through the front loops of each stitch. Pull the yarn tightly to close a circle and insert the needle in the center to bring it out anywhere. And secure the yarn by making back and forth movements between two stitches. And cut off the excess yarn. See you in the next video where will crushe the small body parts of the tig? 11. The Lil Pig - Body Parts: Make a magic ring or the technique learned in level one that is two chains, and you work round one in the first. Don't forget to make your chain after making your magic ring to secure it properly, and you will make four single crochet in the ring. Tighten it. And this time, it's going to be a little different. We won't be working in the round, but in rows. You're going to make a chain. Turn your project over to see the back. So you turn it like a book page, but in the other direction. And it doesn't matter either if you really turn it like a page of a book, as long as you see the back of what you're working on. The chain made before turning is used to add height to begin a second row. You will start by making two single crochet in the same stitch. And this instruction means in the last ditch you made of row one, it is right here where the small hole is. It's the first stitch closest to your hook. You do the same thing as usual. You go through both loops, and you are going to make two single crochet at the same place. You will make two single crochet in the next stitch. Can two to form the point of the ear. Two single crochet in the next ditch. And finally, two single crochet in the last ditch. And that's it. You've made one of the two ears of the little pig, and at the same time, you've been introduced to working in rows. You can cut the thread, leaving a good length because we're going to use it to sew it onto the pig's head later and secure the thread as usual by pulling it through the loop. Make a second one just like it. I'll put the instructions on the screen, and you can always go back in the timeline to reveal how to do it. To crochet the tail this time, start with a slip nut. And make 12 chains. You can count the small loops that are just below the hook to make sure you have 12. The loop on the hook does not count as a chain. Make a single crochet in the second chain from the hook. You insert into the top loop, which is right here, and you make your single crochet. And you do a single crochet in all the following chains. Down. And that's it. If you have one stitch more or less, it doesn't matter at all. It won't be noticeable. And you see that it naturally takes the shape of a cork. Cut the urn, leaving a good length and secure it. Set it aside while we crochet the legs. This time, we'll start with a magic ring, and you will make six single crochet in the ring. Pull on the starting yarn to close the circle securely and continue with round two and the first single crochet of round one. To find it, you can simply calculate from the last one you made. You will make a single crochet in each of the following stitches, working into the back loop only, the loop furthest from you. I didn't have you put a marker since this would be a little bit in the way. So just count up to six ditches. And at the end, you will make a slip stitch in the first single crochet of Round two for a nicer finish. Cut the yard, leaving a good length and secure it. You can make three more identical ones. I'll give you the instructions on the screen, and feel free to rewind the video to see how I did it. See you in the next video where you learn how to sew all these parts on the pig. 12. The Lil Pig - Assembly: No. We will start by sewing the ears onto the head. They will be placed between round eight and nine. So we have round one here, two, three, four, five, six, seven, and eight. So it will be sewn onto this line here. Grab an ear and insert the starting thread, the one in the middle, in your yarn needle. Insert the needle between round eight and nine and the level of the inner side of the eye. Enter the needle and bring it out anywhere. Position the ear so that the right side is facing you, the side where you can clearly see the little braid formed by the stitches. Next, enter the end of the thread through the needle, and we're going to sew the ear. You can follow my movements on the screen. You're going to sew into the stitches right next to the one we entered at the beginning. And each time you enter a strand of the ear to secure it well, you always insert the needle from which you came out and go into the stitch right next to it to insert into a stitch at the end of the ear. When you have finished sewing it, join the end thread to the beginning one. Do the same on the other side. Insert the beginning thread of the second ear into your needle. To know where to start, you can count the small holes between the stitches. At the tenth hole, insert your needle. Make sure the correct side of the ear is facing you. And then it makes sense visually that it's centered and start sewing. When you're finished and it's to your liking, you can secure the threads that are sticking out. Make a double nut with each one. Trim them so they are all the same length and enter them into your needle to hide them inside. And cut off the excess. We're going to sew the four little legs of the tig thter the thread from the beginning, the one that's inside the leg into your needle. And starting from the ear, count three rounds behind. So it will be between these rounds, between rounds 11 and 12, and approximately at this point. So you insert the needle, bring it out anywhere. Position the small leg, and we're going to sew it with the end thread in rounds 11 and 12 inclusively. You can follow my movements on the screen. Basically, we're going to sew into the stitches around the starring thread that we've entered in. This gives us a reference point. So you enter one stitch and exit into another. You enter a stitch of the leg that is facing where you are. You go back into the stitch you came out of to do the same thing and continue sewing in all the stitches of the leg. And don't worry if it's not exactly the same as I do. The important thing is that the leg is well sewn onto the pig and that it looks good. The sewn leg should encompass the two rounds between which you entered the starting thread. No. When you have gone around the leg, you can go rejoin the starting thread. Check if it sounds securely. There should be no gap between the body and the leg. Do the same with the second front leg. Enter the starting thread in your needle and the same little trick to quickly find where to place it. Count five small holes to the left of the leg. Check if it makes sense and start sewing. Se around the starting thread that you just inserted. This is your reference point. And once again, we include two rounds in our scene. Our leg will be attached over two rounds inclusively. And at the end, you will rejoin the starting thread. And if you ever need to undo a sing, use your needle to pull the thread like this and undo it. And we're going to attach the first back leg. You do the same thing. Thread the starting yarn through the needle and you'll insert it after the fifth round behind the front leg. And sew the leg with the end yarn. Same way in the stitches around where you've entered, the leg must be aligned with the front one. And again, you will sew it encompassing two rounds. In this case, rounds 17 and 18. When you have worked through all the stitches of the leg, join the thread to the beginning one and check that everything looks good. And you can attach the last leg. You can do it by eye as long as it's well centered with the back and front ones. When you're finished, you can secure each strip by making double nuts and hide them inside. All that's left is to sew on the little corkscrew tail. Insert one of the tooth thread into your needle. Locate the center back, which is two rounds behind the last spot, and you will insert your needle right next to it to the right or left. It doesn't matter as long as it's not directly in the center, because you will bring it out two stitches further. So the middle stitch should be in the center. And you're going to sew the tail. Everything will be good as long as the extremity is securely attached. Then you bring the thread out anywhere and you enter the second one through the needle. And you can add a small sewing just to reinforce it by entering any strand. And join the thread to the starting one. Secure and hide them. Twisting the tail on itself to create a corkscrew effect. Insert the black thread through your needle. We're going to embroider the little nostriils. Insert the needle anywhere on the top of the head and bring it out just next to the first round and begin embroidering the nostrils on each side. I At the end, join the thread to the one from the beginning. It's normal if A lot stuffing comes out. You can tuck it in with the tip of your needle, and if you can't manage it, you can always cut it, but be careful. Make a double nut with the threads and hide them. Just one last and you're finished. We're going to embroider the small white highlight under the eyes. Enter again anywhere on the top of the head and exit on the other corner of the eye and enter on the other side. We want the white highlight to be under the eye, so you do the same thing on the other side. I join the thread to the beginning one. And when everything is fine, secure and hide them. Congratulations. You've successfully completed your little pig. I'm sure you're very proud of yourself. See you in the next video where you straighten your technique even more with the sheep. 13. The Sheep - Part 1: Welcome to the third and final level of the formulation crochet kits, where you will make the little sheep. I'll introduce you to the nos technique. Where we crochet directly the small parts on the sheep instead of sewing them. Also, you learn how to make a popcorn stitch, which add a lot of texture. Let's get started. Let's begin with the Bay yarn. You have the choice to use the technique learned in level one by making two chains and round one in the first or make the magic ring that you learned in the previous level. Also, you slowly here how to do it. You wrap the yarn around your hook twice and you hold the loops on the hook with your right index finger. Place the yarn as usual in your left hand. And hold the circle that has formed with your thumb and nedle finger and simply slide your hook to catch the yarn and pass it through the circle. You make a chain stitch to secure everything and you are ready to make the first round in your magic ring. You are going to make five single crochet. After making your five single crochet, pull on the starting yarn to close your circle and we will be ready to move on to the next round. You will increase in each of the stitches. Find where the first one is right here, and you will make two single crochet in this stitch. Place your marker on the first and continue to increase in all the following stitches. To single crusher in each of them. Count if you have ten stitches in your round. In the next round, we will increase every other stitch. So one increase in the next stitch. Always place your marker on the first one you made. And you will make one single crochet in the next stitch. And you repeat all around and increase a single crochet. You will have a total of 15 stitches in round three. We met at the end of the round. You should finish with one single crochet in the last stitch. Count to make sure you have 15 single crochet in total and don't forget to pop what you're doing outwards towards the good side, to always crochet from the outside towards the inside of your project. Round four we will increase once every three times, you'll make an increase, followed by a single crochet in the next two stitches, you repeat all around for a total of 20 stitches in the round. M You can pause the video. We will meet at the end of the round. Check that you have 20 single crochet and if the project has flipped to the inside, reposition it the correct way. Round five, we will proceed with the color change, but not right away. You will begin by making a single crochet in the next six stitches and don't forget to replace the marker after making the first one. We're going to make the color change in the sixth single crochet. You enter the stitch and make a yarn over, you go through the stitch, stop there and pick up the white yarn. If it's possible, pick up the yarn that is inside the skin. This will prevent it from moving around while you crochet. Position the yarn in your left hand as usual and pick up the yarn to pass it through the two loops that were left on your hook. We'll continue the rest of the project with the white yarn. Make a single crochet the next stitch. Next, we will make our first popcorn stitch. There's going to be a lot to learn, but we'll take it slowly step by step. First, the popcorn stitch is made up of four double crochet which are joined together. The double crochet is a basic crochet stitch that is slightly taller than the single crochet. I'll show you how to do it. The biggest difference with the double crochet is that before entering the next stitch, you're going to yarn over your hook. Hold the loop with your right index finger to keep it in place and enter the next stitch. You're going to make a yarn over, go through the stitch as you are used to and reposition your fingers to see the three loops that are now on your hook. You are going to make a yarn over and pull through only two loops. Reposition yourself, yarn over and pull through the last two loops on your hook. You've just made a double crochet and you notice that it's much higher than a single crochet. We're going to make three more always in the same stitch. You yarn over, you enter the same stitch. Yarn over, pull through the stitch, reposition your fingers, yarn over, pull through two loops, and finally, yarn over, pull through two loops. Repeat this two more times. Yarn over, insert into the same stitch. Yan over, pull through the stitch, Yan over two loops, and yarn over two loops. I'll let you make the last one still in the same stitch. Okay. Make sure you have made four double crochet. They are a little easier to count than single crochet since there is more length. To transform all this into a popcorn stitch, you're going to remove your hook from the loop and enter the first double crochet you made by going into both loops of the small braid. You're going to retrieve your loop that you left to pass it through the stitch like this. This has brought your four double crochet closer together to form the popcorn stitch and we will complete it by making a chain. This will be the main stitch of our little sheep. You'll have plenty of time to practice it throughout the project. After working your popcorn stitch, you will make a single crochet in the next stitch and you can tighten it a bit more to really bring out the popcorn stitch. We're going to repeat this combination four more times. Let me remind you how to make a double crochet. You yarn over before entering the stitch, Yarn, you go through the stitch, yarn over two loops, and yarn over two loops. You repeat that three more times. You need to have four double crushes in the same stitch. You can follow the screen instructions. When you have finished your four double crochet, you remove the hook, but be careful not to lose your loop. Keep track of the first one you made. You enter both loops of the stitch and find a loop to pull it through the stitch. Finish by making a chain. You continue by making a single crochet and the next stitch. You repeat these two steps to make five popcorn stitches in total. Feel free to rewind the video if you need to know how to do them. We will meet when you've done five. After making the single crochet following your last popcorn stitch, you will make a decrease of single crochet. You enter into the front loop of the next two stitches and you make a single crochet. And you finish with a single crochet in the next stitch. Phew, you have finally finished the fifth round. Since you have learned the main stitch, it will be easy to follow the next ones, and you should now have a total of 19 stitches in the round. Note that the chain following each popcorn stitch does not count as a stitch. Since we've finished working with the base yarn, you can cut it and make a double not with the white thread from the beginning. If you chose to add the plastic eyes, this will be the time to do so. Even though they are often called safety eyes, it is strongly not recommended to use them if you plan to give or leave your creation lying around near children under 3-years-old or animals. There is a risk of suffocation if they come loose. I've provided you with black thread if you'd like to embroider the eyes instead. That will be done at the very end of the project. I've included a video of this alternative following this tutorial. We're going to place the eyes between round three and four. It should be between the last and second to last rounds in beige. We need to make sure that the little popcorn stitches are on the top of the sheep's head. Place the first eye at the level of the first popcorn stitch on the right, and the second one at the level of the popcorn stitch on the left. It should look like this. When you are satisfied, you can secure them with the small plastic tads. It's important to be sure that you've put the eyes in the right place because we won't be able to change them. Make sure you push firmly so they can't pop out as long as you hear a click and make sure the eyes are securely in place. We'll continue in the next video. 14. The Sheep - Part 2: Now, let's continue with round six. You will start by making a decrease, always working into the front loop of the next two stitches. Replace your marker on what you just did, and you will make a single crochet in the next stitch. You repeat this once more. One decrease, one single crochet. Starting from the next stitch, you will alternate a popcorn stitch followed by a single crochet. You will make six in total. Just a quick reminder of the popcorn stitch, it consists of four double crochet made in the same stitch, joined at the end, which you will finish with a chain stitch. I'm going to show you where to make your single crochet. Since the chain you make at the end of a popcorn stitch doesn't count, your single crochet will be right here in the small hole you see, which is just above and to the left of the single crochet of the previous round. You'll see it clearly when you pull on what you're doing. You make a single crochet, always keeping it tight. And you continue. You make the popcorn stitch into the single crochet of the previous round. So you skip the chain that you see here, and you work into the next space, which happens to be the single crochet of the previous round. Then you work your popcorn stitch. A single crochet in the next stitch in the popcorn stitch of the previous round. Tighten it well, and you continue like this alternating the popcorn and the single crochet stitch. Make sure your popcorn are always worked into the single crochet of the previous round and vice versa. Mm you will finish with a popcorn in the last stitch, the one just before the marker. You should have made seven popcorn stitches and tall in the round and have a total of 17 stitches. The number is odd precisely so that you can alternate the popcorn and single crushes stitches so that they are not always in the same place. Round seven, you can follow the screen instructions. We will start by making a single crochet and then you will alternate the popcorn stitch with the single crochet eight times. It's very important to put your stitch marker so you don't lose yourself. Given that you practiced well with the previous round, I'll let you work. We meet at the end of the round as long as you make sure to work your popcorn stitches on the single crochet and your single crochet on the popcorn stitches. Mm. You should finish by working a single crochet in the popcorn stitch, which is just before the marker. And what you see here is the chain, which doesn't count. So you're in the right place if there is a popcorn stitch that separates you from the marker. On round eight, you'll start by making a popcorn in the next stitch, where is your marker. Replace your marker on and continue by making a single crochet in the next stitch in the next popcorn stitch. And you alternate popcorn, single crochet, all around. And you will finish this time with a popcorn stitch. I'll let you work. We meet at the end of the round. And you finish with a popcorn stitch just before your marker. We will move on to the next round. Where we'll do something a little different? Your ship should now look like this. The popcorn stitches are neatly aligned and form a small diagonal. On round nine, we're going to make a few single crochet stitches in a row to leave some room to crochet the legs at the end. You'll make one single crochet in the next five stitches. Replace your marker on the first one and remember that the chain of a popcorn stitch doesn't count, so you skip it and you're going to make the single crochet in the next stitch. The next single crochet will be right here before the popcorn stitch. The fourth in the single crochet of the previous round and the last in the following popcorn stitch. And you continue alternating popcorn and single crochet stitches until the end. Once again, make sure to work popcorn stitch into the single crochet from the previous round and vice versa. I'll let you continue. We'll meet at the end of the round. You should finish with a single crochet in the last stitch. For the next two rounds, we will repeat round eight and nine what we just did. You will start with a popcorn in the first stitch. Don't forget to place your marker on it. You continue alternating popcorn single crochet stitches until the end. You will finish with a popcorn stitch. I'll let you continue. We meet at the end of the run. You should finish with a popcorn stitch and we're ready to continue with Round 11. This round will be identical to Round nine, you'll start by making a single crochet in the next five stitches and don't forget your marker. And you continue with alternating popcorn stitch with single crochet until the end of the run. You can toss the video. You should finish with a single crochet in the last stitch. In the next video, we will start closing our little sheep. 15. The Sheep - Part 3: Now we'll start decreasing to close the little sheet. Start by making a popcorn stitch in the next stitch. Remember that the chain that you see right here next to it doesn't count. So you're entering the next single crochet stitch. You make a single crochet in the next stitch and place your marker on the popcorn stitch you made. We're going to make our first decrease, but I'm going to show you a different way to do it. This is the way we use when working in rows. Until now, you've been used to making what are called invisible decreases by working into the front loop of the next two stitches. Since it's not easy to do this technique with popcorn stitches in our way, I'm going to show you the official technique for making two single crochet together. You're going to insert your hook into the next stitch. You make a yarn over, you pull through this itch, but you stop there. You're going to insert your hook into the next itch. Yarn over, pull through thistg and finally, yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook. Once again, we've combined two single crochet into one. But this time by entering through both loops of each stitch, do the same thing, another decrease by making two single crochet together. You enter the next stitch, you yarn over and pull through the stitch. Stop there, go to the next stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch, and yarn over, pull through all three loops. You'll see why usually we make invisible decreases which are much more beautiful than what we just did. But the result is the same. We have transformed two stitches into one. And you'll see we can even transform three stitches into one with the same technique. But just before that, you're going to make a popcorn stitch in the next stitch into the single crochet you see here. Now we're going to make the three single crochet together. You're going to enter the next stitch, which is in a popcorn one, yarn over, pull through the stitch and stop there. Go in the next stitch in the next single crochet, yarn over, pull through the stitch and stop, and finally, enter in the next popcorn stitch. Yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over, pull through all four loops on your hook. You've just combined three stitches into one and you repeat this once more. You make a popcorn stitch in the next stitch. And. And you make three single crochet together. So you enter the next stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch, enter the next one, yarn over, pull through the stitch, and enter the next stitch. Yarn over, pull through the stitch, and finally yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook. Then you will make apopcorn in the next stitch. You will make one last decrease in two stitches this time, two single crochet together. Now you should have a total of ten stitches in the round. Our little sheet has started to close up nicely. Now let's move on to the last round. This round will be as you are used to do, you will alternate popcorn and single crochet stitches, starting with a single crochet. Always place Sir marker on the first stitch and continue making a popcorn in the next stitch you repeat all around single crochet popcorn stitch. Okay. It might be a little more difficult to see where to go in the decrease of three single crochet, but it's really the big hole it makes right here. I'll let you continue working. We'll meet at the end of the round and you should finish with a popcorn stitch. To finish nicely, you can make a slip stitch in the next stitch, the one with your marker. You enter the stitch, you yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook. Cut the yarn, leaving a good length and secure it. Now it's time to add stuffing to your sheet. Go ahead and add small amounts at a time. The important thing is that it's well stuffed, but not too much so that the stuffing doesn't show between the stitches. To close it all up, insert the thread into your needle and this time you'll insert it from the outside in words into the next stitch by going through both loops of the stitch and coming out in the next one to the inside towards the outside in a zigzag pattern like that all around. Okay. At the end, you pull on the urn to close the opening. You can insert your needle into a few strands to reinforce your closure. You can insert it anywhere. It doesn't matter as long as it feels well closed. Mm. When everything is right, you can insert your needle and bring it out anywhere below the sheet to secure the yarn. Work back and forth between two stitches to secure it properly. And at the end, you insert your needle inside and cut off the excess yarn. See you in the next video where we will crochet the small parts on our sheet. 16. The Sheep - Body Parts: We will crush in the other parts directly onto the sheet, starting with the ears. And if you prefer to crush everything separately and then sew it onto the sheet, you can watch the following video. We'll start with the right ear. You will insert your hook from back to front at this spot just behind the popcorn stitch that is next to the eye. And make sure the sheep is right side up, the top of its head is pointing upwards. To find out the top of its head, that's where you made your first five popcorn stitches. The junction between the beige and white color is made directly on those stitch. While below, you can see that there are single crochet in white between the color join and the popcorn stitches. Join the Bie yarn. You pick it up and pass it through the stitch and you will make four chains. You can pull a little on the starting yarn to tighten it. Then in the second chain from the hook, you will make four single crochet. The four single crochet always in the same chain. Next, you will make a slip stitch in the next two chains. Use your other hand to hold the ear in place and make your slip stitches. Just a reminder, a slip stitch is when you insert into the stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch and through the loop on your hook. And that's it. You can remove the hook, cut the iron and secure it. Now we're going to insert the last thread to reinforce the ear we made. You enter the same place where you inserted the hook at the beginning, and you just pass it into the strength of the ear just to attach it securely to the sheep. Bring the needle out anywhere a little further along. Put the starting thread into your needle and do the same thing to better secure the ear. Join the thread to D ending one. You can make a double nut and hide them inside. Check that the ear is secure. Oh and cut off any excess. The left ear will be opposite to the right one. You can use your crochet hook as a guide and this time enter from the front towards the back behind the popcorn stitch, which is next to the eye. You join your base yarn and do the same thing as on the other side. You will make four chains. Four single crochet in the second chain from the hook. Next, you will make a slip stitch in the next two chins. Cut the yarn and secure it. You will do the same as the other side, tuck in the beginning and end threads to securely attach the ear to the sheet. It must point downwards. It's really not important where you insert your needle as long as you feel that the ear is securely attached to the sheep. It should look like this. The ears at the same level pointing downwards. You can make a double not with the thread and hide them inside. Now we're going to make the little legs. Again, if you prefer to crochet the legs separately and sew them on, you can refer to the following video. But I'll show you how to crochet them directly on the sheep. Place the sheep on its back, and to recognize the underside of the sheet, it looks like there's missing popcorn stitches. That's where we made our single crochet in a row. I wanted to create small spaces so we could crochet the legs properly. It's not very pretty, but we'll hide all that. To make the first front leg, you will insert your hook here through those two holes where there is a single crochet stitch and you insert from the front to the back of the sheet. You will join the base yarn. You pass it through the stitch and you will make two chains, and we will make a popcorn stitch to form the legs. Four double crochet in the same place. Always passing your hook through the front stitch towards the back. You will need a little more dexterity to hold the sheet while making your popcorn stitch. After making your four double crochet in the same space, instead of entering the first double crochet, you will enter the space between the two chains and the first double crochet like this. You will retrieve the loop with the hook and pass it through the space and you finish with a chain stitch. That's all. You can remove the hook, cut the urn and secure it. While we're here, I'm going to show you another way to secure the end thread. It's by pulling on the loop until the arn comes out. It's a little less strong but more aesthetically pleasing for some projects. It's good to know. You insert the end thread into your needle and you enter the same space that is behind your popcorn stitch to reinforce your first leg. Join the starting thread to the end one. And tie a double knot tightly with these two threads. Hike them and cut off any excess. You can do the same with the other three legs. For the second front leg, you can insert your hook this way. Join the base yarn, chin to, and make a popcorn stitch. Don't forget to go into the space between the two chains and the first double crochet to form the popcorn stitch. You finish with your chain. You cut the urn, secure it, and attach the leg by joining the two threads which you will secure with a double nut. For the back legs, you will do the same thing. You will insert your hook from the front towards the back. Your hook should come out between two popcorn stitches. You join the base yarn and you do the same thing. Chain two popcorn stitch. I'll put the video in fast forward so you can see what I do. For the last leg, you will insert your hook right here. It should be right next to a popcorn stitch on the left. Can you repeat the same thing. Some Well done, you have assembled all the small parts of the sheet directly onto it. All that remains is to embroider its face. With the black thread, you will unbroer its muzzle. You insert it into your needle, enter anywhere on the top of the sheep's face, and bring the needle out right in the center of the first round and follow my movements on the screen to embroider the muzzle. When it's to your liking, secure the tooth threads and hide them. All that's left is to embroider the small white highlight on the other side of the eyes. You can follow what I'm doing on the screen again. If you have trouble positioning it correctly on the other side, pull on the thread while holding it in the right place. You can also use your needle to tuck it in a little under the eye. When you're finished, secure the threads and hide them. And there you go. Your little sheep is now completely finished. I hope you find it super cute and that you're very proud of yourself. See you in next video for the final words. 17. Alternative: The Sheep - Sewing Body Parts: If you prefer to crochet the ears and the legs of the little sheep separately and then sew them on, here's how. With the base yarn, make a slip nut and chain four. Then make three single crochet in the second chain from the hook. You will make a slip stitch in the two remaining chains. And that's it. You can cut the urn, leaving a good length and secure it and make a second one identical, either by rewinding the video or by posing it. You will begin by making a slip note and four chains and you follow the instructions at the top of the screen. Next, you will sew them on each side of the sheep behind a popcorn stitch like this. Make sure the good side is facing the sheep and that they hang downwards. You will make four identical legs. You will start by making five single crochet in the magic ring. Continue round two by making a single crochet in all stitches of the previous round. M for a or finish, make a slip stitch in the next stitch and cut the yarn, leaving a good length and secure it. Make sure you put the leg back on the good side and make three more identical, knowing that you will start by making five single crochet in the magic ring. When you have finished your four legs, you will sew them on the same way that you learned in level two, just below the sheet. I'll show you where to place them. In the end, it should look like this. With the black thread, you will prod its muzzle. You insert it into your needle, enter anywhere on the top of the sheep's face and bring the needle out right in the center of the first round and follow my movements on the screen to unroer the muzzle. When it's to your liking, secure the tooth threads and hide them. All that's left is to embroider the small white highlight on the other side of the eyes. You can follow what I'm doing on the screen again. If you have trouble positioning it correctly on the other side, pull on the thread while holding it in the right place. You can also use your needle to tuck it in a little under the eye. Thing. When you're finished, secure the threads and hide them. And there you go. Your little sheet is now completely finished. I hope you find it super cute and that you're very proud of yourself. See you in next video for the final words. 18. Alternative: Embroider The Eyes: Since the safety ice can be dangerous for children under three, here are the steps to follow to embroider the eyes with thread. The same technique can be reproduced with any animal. You can insert the black thread into your yarn needle, and you will include the two rounds mentioned where the eyes were to be placed. You can pass the thread four times. Then you can put the needle back in and go make the second hide. You can then join the two threads to hide them. And you can add the white reflection to the outer sides of the eyes. Make a double knot and tuck the threads in. Your little creation is now very safe for children. 19. Final Words: I hope you enjoyed my class. And you know what? You are no longer a beginner. You can venture into this wonderful world of little crocheted creatures. The possibility of creation in crochet is endless. If you'd like to discover other techniques from this fiber art, I offer several online courses as well as modern patterns that you will find on my website at crushle.com or On Skillshare. See you soon.