Winter Wood-slice Ornaments - Painting on Wood With Acrylics for Beginners | Kristina Moyor | Skillshare
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Winter Wood-slice Ornaments - Painting on Wood With Acrylics for Beginners

teacher avatar Kristina Moyor, fine artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      0:53

    • 2.

      Materials

      6:42

    • 3.

      Prepping the palette

      2:51

    • 4.

      Painting the Background Part One

      3:29

    • 5.

      Painting the Background Part Two

      4:30

    • 6.

      Splatter

      3:01

    • 7.

      A Second Design Part One

      5:08

    • 8.

      A Second Design Part Two

      3:25

    • 9.

      Birch Trees Part One

      6:09

    • 10.

      Birch Trees Part Two

      3:39

    • 11.

      Birch Tree Details

      6:55

    • 12.

      Birch Tree Details Part Two

      3:30

    • 13.

      Finishing Touches

      3:55

    • 14.

      Conclusion

      0:40

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About This Class

Unlock your creativity and embrace the winter season with this enchanting class, "Winter Wood-slice Ornaments - Painting on Wood With Acrylics for Beginners." Perfect for those eager to dip their brushes into the world of acrylic painting, this lesson offers a delightful journey into crafting fun winter-themed wood-slice ornaments.

In this hands-on class, beginners will experience working with acrylics on wood surfaces, exploring techniques that bring out the inherent beauty of wood grain while capturing the magic of simple winter landscapes. 

**Key Learning Objectives:**

1. **Acrylic Painting Basics:** Introduction to acrylic painting techniques, including brush strokes, blending, and layering.

1. **Painting on Wood:** Explore the joy of painting on wood and how it differs from canvas or other materials.

3. **Finishing Touches:** Master the art of adding details, highlights, and finishing touches to bring your wood-slice ornaments to life.

**Who Should Attend:**

This class is tailored for beginners with little to no experience in acrylic painting. If you're looking to explore your artistic side and create personalized winter decorations, this workshop is perfect for you.

Join us for an enjoyable and educational experience, and leave with your own set of hand-painted winter wood-slice ornaments that will be cherished for seasons to come. Let the magic of winter inspire your artistic journey!

See you in the classroom!

♥ Kristina

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Kristina Moyor

fine artist

Teacher

Hello, I'm Kristina.

I'm an artist in Calgary, AB., Canada. I am passionate about the Arts and love to paint, draw, sing and dance. I earned a Bachelor of Arts degree from the University of Lethbridge in 2010. My dream is to continually evolve and elevate my craft while helping others achieve their artistic goals.

I have two decades of teaching experience in art, dance, English and other.

I believe that art is for all and can have an incredibly positive influence in our lives. I hope you will embrace this opportunity to learn, create and connect with me and other students as you engage in discussions and share projects. Thank you for joining me, I look forward to getting to know you through your work.

Let's Art!

... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello and welcome to this beginner acrylic paint lesson, where we're going to focus on the skill of learning how to paint on wood. If you've never painted before, have no fear, this is a beginner lesson. If you're intermediate, then you might be able to go through the lesson a little quicker. If you're advanced, I'm going to challenge you to create your own design. But the fun part is we're going to create ornaments. My name is Christina Moyer and I specialize in painting with acrylics. I love art and have always drawn and painted and created, and I love to continue creating and exploring various things. I've been teaching for almost two decades and I can't wait to bring out the artist in you. Because I believe that art is truly, for all this could be the perfect gift to give this holiday season. So let's get started. 2. Materials: Okay. Some things I always use when I'm painting with acrylics, two glass jars makes it easy to clean out and I don't have that much water in maybe like a half an inch. If that half an inch to an inch max. You basically don't want the water to come past this part on your brush when you're cleaning it. Okay, that brings me to brushes for this project. I'm going to use a few brushes that doesn't have to be this exact shape, but something that you can flick paint with. This is going to be something stiffer brush bristles, that's why I chose this one. It could be a flat one with stiff bristles. You can use old tooth brush. This one here is about a half inch rounded flat brush. This one is going to be great for covering more space with some control. Here we have my favorite brush I always have on hand is my four inch angle brush. It's a good one for control then. This one here is hard to see, but it's a script liner brush and it's nice and thin. It has it's not just thin, is it? Not many bristles, but it's long. Elongated bristles are great for creating lines that have movement to them like branches. That thing, when you have one that has very few bristles and is shorter, that's great for small details. But this one is great for creating those natural flow, thin lines because of the length of it. I also use this one to sign my name. That's good to keep it up. We've got brushes, we got water, we've got a reg could see I've used it many times for painting. Can use an old T shirt, cut that up and to make it into a G. So you can re use something we're of course going to need. Well, this isn't what I always use for painting, but something to paint on. Today, we're painting on wood slices. These ones are already purchased with a hole in it for ornament hanging. You can purchase them or make them yourself if you want. This is nice because it's ready to be painted on. When you make them yourself, you're going to have to dry out the wood and everything. There is a little more process. You're going to have to make the hole yourself, but then you can also choose which ones are going to work for you, which ones? Not. When you purchase these online, you get a whole bunch of them and some of them are good, some of them are not for this particular project. What's great is I'm going to use, since we're covering up so much of it, there's some of these ornaments that won't work for keeping most of the background there. Just because if you look at this one, I'm going to want to cover that up. Or you can use it as a starting point. Like what could you use that in your imagery to create? If you're more advanced, maybe you can see an image already in that and start it there and make something beautiful. You can see this one too has like something unique to it. So that's why I'm going to use this one for this particular one. And then this one here is a little weird, but at the bottom that I want to cover up, when we use these ones that are pre cut, this is our hanging point. So keep that in mind for when you're going to hang it that you want this always to be up and down. Okay. Anyways, back to materials. Okay, we're going to need paint. This is the paint I'm going to use to create this. Now, keep in mind some of the colors. You don't have to do this color exact. And I'm going to do a few that are a bit different than this, but I'll show you how to create it like that. We're going to need some black. I have Mars black, dioxazine purple. This is a fluid type, but it doesn't matter if they're fluid or medium viscosity. Okay. This is like your regular one that you buy. This is a fancier one. Well, I don't know if I'd say fancier, but it's just a different style. So it's fluid, you don't really need to mix water into it. You'll see you shake them up. I also have the fluid in titanium white, bright aqua green. This is where this one's not been used in this particular one, but I'd like to try this. Give that northern lights look to it, let's put that there, cobalt blue. This is the one I used with to create this color. If you wanted to just do this color, just out the bright Aco green and inserve this one, that's all you need for paint colors. I've also used some sparkles, bit of glitter just to make it shimmer on my tree or on my friend's tree, whoever I'm giving it to. You can either. I just have this on hand. It's not something I went and purchased, but this is some embossing powder. It was just the right color of blues and silvers in there that I wanted. With this particular one, I would stick to either white, silver, blue as my colors for sparkles. This particular sparkle that I have here, this one I'm going to use for the ones that I use this green, see how they look nice together. Keep that in mind when you're like this one, I probably wouldn't use on this, but that's why I have this here. I'm going to do one that's exactly like this. Then let's do one that's a bit different. When I say exactly, things are rarely exactly like something. But I mean the color scheme and method we're going to follow this first. Because if you wanted to make that, let's make it okay. The other thing too, that comes with the kit usually. But if you don't, if you're making your own, you're going to want some twine, something to loop through the hole that you can then hang on your tree. Wonderful. Okay, let's get started. Let's move these out of the way things that you don't need, going to put them away. The other thing is we need a palette. You're going to need a palette. 3. Prepping the palette: Okay. To begin with, we don't need our sparkles right away, so I'm going to put those off to the side. The first color you need to start with is your dioxizine purple. I'm going to shake that up. If it's a fluid one, you want to shake it up. If yours isn't, then you don't have to shake it up. I'm going to just put that on my palette, just a good little amount there. I'm also going to put out to begin with some of my cobalt blue. Don't need a lot of that one, well, that's probably too much, but we'll use it again on another one then shake up your white, if it's fluid, get out your titanium Pe. Put a little bit of that. We'll be using that one throughout the piece. Okay, this one out. Let's start with one at a time, not to confuse, move the other ones to the side and focus on the one that you have. Okay? Grab a flat, rounded brush. If you don't have this brush, just get something that's about a half inch size whenever I wet my brush. If you're a beginner, just know you don't want it dripping. Okay, let's move the silver Sean. See better? I don't want to brush dripping. I always want to wipe it. And then I have my cloth over here. I'm dabbing it off. Okay, We're going to go, if you were painting on your hand, you could see a little wet. I'm just going to show you because this is one of the most important things as a beginner to note is how much water is on your brush. Okay? How much paint is on your brush as well? Those are very important things. Have a look at your brush before you're about to paint something, okay? If it's like globbed with paint on the handle and everything, that's not going to be a very good tool to give you precision. Okay? It's going to be messy. Okay, let's get into this dioxine purple. I always get into a color on the edge of it so that if I need to use a clean portion of it that I've set myself up for success. Okay, then what? We're going to brush this off a bit because there's probably some little bits. Okay? You're going to choose a line, one of the rings, depending on how much space you want to have. Like, if you look at this one here, you could see I follow one of the rings around. Sometimes they grow like thicker on one edge and then thinner on the other side. It depends if you want to be 100% true to it or not. 4. Painting the Background Part One: Because this one has a bit of a weird thing going on over here. There must have been an interesting story to this particular tree that it got cut down from. You can decide whether you want to keep the side thick and then run around thick, thin. I think it's good to start with following one of the rings and then if you want to make it thicker on one end, make it thicker. Basically I'm going to take this nice thick line that it's giving me, getting close to the edge and pulling inward. That way I can get closer to the edge. If I didn't quite get to it, I don't go accidentally over the edge. I'm holding with one hand the ornament, the slice on the other hand. I do have resting on it as well with my pinky. That always gives me added stability, brushing on. Now, if you see your paint doing that, that means you don't have enough paint on your brush unless you're doing a dry texture look, then you don't want that carefully. If you accidentally go over, it's okay. We just want a nice smooth line going around. I don't want any pools of paint happening on my ornament. Okay, we're going to try and work this quickly. Don't do this when you only have 5 minutes. Make sure you have plenty of time to work the other paint colors in. Okay. We're just going to cover this up. I'm going to move these guys over a little bit so I have a little more room. Get more paint. Keep reloading your brush every time you feel like your paint brush is starting to dry out. That might take a little bit of practice. If you're new, that's okay. Just give yourself a license. See how that now, that means I need more paint. Now here we have to make a decision. Do we follow the curve? And I think I'm going to, I like to honor the piece that I'm working on with wood, when it's a wood slice like this is unique. A canvas that's created to certain specifications is going to have the same look from canvas to canvas. This piece of wood is unique. It's its own thing. It was a living thing that got sliced. I like to honor the shape with this particular design. You can do that once you fill it in. If you don't like it, you can cover more, but it's a little bit harder to cover less. Cover the whole inner part here, following along that ring that I decided on. If I decide I need to cover more, I could just go to the next ring. It's okay. Not a problem. But I like this with a nice thick border. I don't know, I think it's cool. This one had a thinner border. It's up to you, decide whether you want to go thinner or thicker. Take a look at it. Remember, hold it up from where the hole is going to be and decide. 5. Painting the Background Part Two: Okay, once you've got that all covered, we're going to go right away in with some of this blue that we've got here, that's that cobalt blue. We don't need a lot of it, but what we're going to do is we're going to add it in. We wanted to blend with the background. Not if you got your background dried too quickly, then just add a little bit of purple as well. Just need to get more purple back on there. My camera battery died, so I had to add a little more purple in. That's okay. See how it's creating this interesting ambiance going on to add more blue to it. Let some areas blend out and then maybe let other areas stay bright blue. This is where you get to make some fun decisions. Where you want that blue to, do you want it right in the middle? Do you want it off to the side? Do you want to creating a line across almost like a galaxy in the sky? You want more blue showing the purple. Do you need to add a little more purple back in? You can do that while it's wet. You can blend it when it dries. You can't really blend it, but you can create a layer over top. Okay, while this is still wet, we're going to go into our white just from the corner and tap it in. This is where you want to be a little more careful. I don't want to go too crazy with it. I want to be a little more blue looking, so I'm going to grab some blue. I'm lightly creating some texture, some interest. I'm not going to fully blend it out. I want to see something there. Something's happening. I don't want it to be bright white either. Might tap out the white part. If we look at the example piece, you can see how it's got that background. If we want it to be more blue, just add in more blue. If your brush is starting to look a bit muddy, meaning like it's not making the colors you want, you need to wash that out. I have two jars because one is going to wash out initial color. Call it my dirty water. Wipe the side and then go into the clean one just to make sure we got all of it nice and clean. Tap on the cloth and away we go back into it. Want to get it more bright? Get into that blue. Tap it on, create some movement. You can see I haven't created a round object. It's not a particular shape really. It looks like a cloud. Then if we want to do a little more white, just a tiny bit of white go in and tap back into there. As you keep tapping in an area, it's going to blend it out, making that white disappear into that color behind. If I bring it into other areas, it's just showing that maybe there's some clouds in the sky and a bit of light that's hitting them, maybe it's some moonlight about the story a little bit as you create and remember to keep that hole at the top. Sometimes it drifts and you're like then you think this is the top. No, we want to make sure this is straight up and down where the hole is. I have made this mistake. Just remember that. Okay. All right. 6. Splatter: Remember, if you're a beginner, do not let paint sit on your brush unattended. If you go on to use another brush, make sure it's only for a short second, short minute, and then you're washing out your brush. If you need to keep this color in there, if you don't, you need to go onto another step, then just wash your brush. You can always add the paint back in there if you need. Okay. By the way, these are about 3.5 inch diameter. They vary in size. Anyways, that brush is pretty clean. It shouldn't have any paint on it that's visible. And also it should come out clean in this water. Okay, Always it off on my cloth. Next up, this next step could be done when things are dry. I'm going to move other stuff out of the way because this is, I'm going to be splattering a bit. So you want to make sure you don't have anything in the way that could be ruined by getting splattered. I'm going to take my stiff brush. I'm going to tap it into the white. See why it's important to keep that white nice and clean? I'm just going to tap it off then that's distributed around my brush. We're not going to stab like we're not going to stipple, we're going to flick paint onto this. It's not going to take long much. That's it created a little starry night. How quick was that, right? What's great about flicking paint to create a starry night is you're going to have different, do you see the different sizes of dots? That's really nice to have so that you can have a real vision of the night. Because stars aren't going to be all the same and they're not going to be a like a poka dot dress, right? Like not equally distributed. They're random, right? Make sure you wash this brush because we're not going to use this brush anymore. We don't want to leave any paint on there that will ruin the brush. So wash your brush. Also need to wash your finger. Could put your finger in there, get it. Can you might need to go wash your hands in the bathroom to get that off. Get as much as you can out there first. And then we go into here and you can see that still some is coming out. So we want to make sure we do both of those steps. And then off on the cloth and then off to the side for the next step, I'm going to let this dry, so make sure that this is fully dry before you move on to the next step. 7. A Second Design Part One: While we're waiting for this one to dry, we could start another one. Grab another round for this one. I'm going to use this bright aw quieren. I'm going to add that to my palette. I didn't need very much of that blue you can see. But I can still use some of that blue in this one right here. Now, I could decide to start with this blue instead of the purple. But if I want that dark sky, I'm going to want that purple back to this brush again. It's already wet, so I'm going to go right into the purple and decide where I want this to be. Now I've got lots of rings going on here, it's chaotic. I might decide to create my own line, I'm not 100% sure here, I might go a little further because this is a smaller ring. Just try to keep it, maybe the border more equal this time. You just have to make those decisions as you go. We all have the artistic eye within us. It's like this intuition where you feel like I should do it this way and then you go for it. Maybe it's not always the right decision or maybe the method doesn't quite work out the way you wanted. You can see that I've turned the piece as I go because it's easier to create a round shape this direction than it is on the upswing. The downswing is easier moment if your left hand it might just be the opposite way that you're doing this. And I might need to get more purple paint out. Yeah, I need a little more purple paint. That's okay. I'd rather get more paint than have too much and then have to waste it later. I prefer to have my paint on a palette than adding it directly to my canvas because I have more control this way. I kind of use it on an angle to come around. I could go a little bit closer to the edge over here. I think it was the side I went closer. Don't want a huge border. I won't have any space for painting anything in the middle. Oops, want a nice rounded edge going around? Nice, clean edge. I can see how wipe off excess into the center as I go carefully moving around, still following my same steps. See how my pinky is stabilizing me right there. If I'm just hovering, that's not going to give me the stability I need. Like when you're doing other things, If you wear eye liner, you probably use your pinky to stabilize your finger. To stabilize your hand, I should say. Sure. You use a brush that can give you nice control. Okay, we're almost ready for the fun freeing, but you have to stay a little more focused. And then when you get into the center part, you can explore a little bit and have some fun. Okay, make sure that this is straight up and down. Remember, straight up and down, we can go in with our paint. Now, I think I'm still going to go in with some blue. First gives you that feeling of it being closer to dawn or something like that. Just going to give us another layer of depth added to it. You can see it's created some interesting ambience. I'm going to wash this brush because if I go into that, it's going to be too muddy. Those are pretty opposite colors. Into the dirty water first, into the clean water. Wipe off your brush on your cloth. Okay, let's go in with this screen. I don't know what's going to happen. 8. A Second Design Part Two: I have some ideas, but I'm not 100% sure. If I wanted to look like Northern Lights, I might want to do some swirly types of marks. I think I'm going to do these swirly types of lines. Then I'm going to take another brush. Or maybe just get a little bit more on there. First, get a little more paint. Okay, I'm going to watch this brush off. Since my paint is still wet, I might be able to get that nice effect. Were they kind of blurring into the sky just quickly? Just like making light sweeping motions upward. Maybe add a little more green in there because it looks too sporadic. Good repeat. I'm just slightly brushing upward now. Maybe a fan brush might be a bit better for this particular step. Something with a wider, wider brush at the top. There have been a lot of northern lights in my area recently and I missed them all. I'll see it the next day. People on their social media posting all the pictures like what I missed it. I can really brush it up longer too. Bring it up further. Lights that are dancing in that night. Sky, beautiful. It's cool. This is where you play. You have some fun. All right. We're going to do that star spray again. You know, he said you wouldn't need this brush again. It depends what order of things you're doing. Okay, my brush is now maybe too wet to create those stars. It's a bit easier if your brush is dry, so it really flicks. Right now it's not flicking as well. Good. 9. Birch Trees Part One: What's great about using acrylics on wood is you don't necessarily have to put anything on the wood previous to painting onto it. If you are concerned about that, maybe you've cut the word yourself. Do make sure that it is smoothed out. There are products you can apply to work on so that there isn't any soakage that happens. It might soak in like if you're painting on fabric, it can soak into the fabric. But if you're painting on a Eso canvas or something like that, it's not a problem. You might have to do multiple layers if it is soaking in a little bit. But I find that that's why it's easiest to just buy them pre prep for this. There's no anything particular but that's been put onto it to prepare the wood. But it has been smoothed out so it's not like a rough surface to paint on. So that's just a little side note. Okay, let's get some birch trees go in. So we're going to need our first one because that one's dry, it's a nice thing. Acrylic paint dries quickly. I'm going to grab my white and put a new thing of white here, a healthy amount. And then I'm going to grab my four inch angle brush. I'm going to prep it by putting in some water. Now, if your water is really dirty, you might want to get new clean water. But I'm not too worried about it right now. If I find that my white isn't staying pure white, then I'll clean these out. Okay, let's make sure this hole is at the top of our working area. We'll load up our brush with some white. Remember I always load it up on the side. And then we're going to start our first mark. Now, I prefer not to do one right in the middle. I think it looks nice to have odd numbers. It's almost like the rules of design. You don't do pairs of things. Typically you do like odd numbers. In groupings, there's five total here and that gives it a nice cohesive look. It doesn't look overcrowded and there's not anything in the center. I don't want it to look too symmetrical. I'm going to draw one from the very top, just a straight line down. Now it's a tree. Trees aren't perfectly straight. You don't have to use a ruler or any tape or anything. Then I'm going to go over it, maybe slightly to one side, where I'm focusing on making the one edge look nicer. I can look at my tree and say, is there anything I don't really love about it? Do I need to make it thicker at one part, maybe the top side? Okay, then we're going to make some more, we're going to make them different thicknesses, just like in the example. That's going to make it look more natural. Where do I want to put my next one? Let's put one not on the exact same spot over here, maybe a bit further. If you press lightly with your brush, you're going to have a thinner mark made. If you press heavily, you're going to have a wider mark made. You have a little more control when it's thinner. I'm going to go right over the bark to take that on. Oh, got my hand in the paint. All right. Going right over the edge here. I don't want it to be as thick as that other tree branch branch. It's the trunk. These are tree trunks. Then we have to make some decisions. I definitely want one over here. I'm thinking, put one right here that's a bit thinner than that first one. My hands feel a bit shaky. They're coming out a little. Say, that's okay. You can stabilize yourself somewhere that's not shaky, then that works, okay? Make sure that you always recorrect where the top and bottom is at. You don't make any major mistakes. It'll look a little weird if you have the trees going like this and then it's hanging up this way. It's like it doesn't quite look right that way. Okay, now we have 33 is a good place, but I feel like it looks a little empty. We're going to add another one. We could add a thin one for following this example. Exactly. We've got a thin one here, close to this branch. So let's do it. There we go, thin one there. It's easiest if you can get the line correctly once, but you probably will have to go over it more than once. It's a matter of not, don't think about making it bigger, because you're just going to a huge, huge, huge. It's just going to get bigger and bigger, bigger. But if I'm looking at these two and I don't like that they're too similar, I want to make this outer one maybe a bit bigger. Then I'm just going to go over the same line but just slightly to the right. Or press a little bit more. Don't start on the edge and you're just going to make it too big because we are going to have to do another layer. You can already see some of that dark showing through. We will have to go over that, but don't worry following that same process. 10. Birch Trees Part Two: If the paint isn't dry, you might just be pulling paint. It's best to just let it dry. All right, then we want another one. Where do we want to put it? You can even use your brush to see where would it look good. Maybe over here, maybe over here, maybe the right in the center. I said not to do, it's not that you can't do one in the center. I think it looks a bit better and intentionally not symmetrical. I'm going to go light one right here, maybe a bit thicker, again, going over the same line. Maybe pressing harder. We're just watching the one side to make sure it's looking good. Now looking over it and thinking, okay, some of them look similar. I could make one thicker. I'm thinking this one here could look thicker. Let's try it. If I did this one thick, it would look too much like I was trying to do something symmetrical. I'm going to go over that same line, but bring it out to the left. As a right handed person, I can see the left side better. That's why I'm using that as my control. Okay. The other thing that's going to make take it up a notch is putting the little branches in. I'm not going to do too many, don't want to overpower them. But what you do is you take this brush and you're going to look for areas that maybe have some space in them. And we're going to use that as a bit of a guide. I'm going to follow the one I did up here. We're going to draw one in here. You can actually start this way and I'm doing pretty sharp angles upward. If my brush is loaded nicely, I might only need to make the line once. Now this one, if I do them all on the same side of the branch, it might not look as natural. This was on the right. But if I can't do necessarily alternating either, because that won't look very natural. All these things we're considering, how far does it go down? Do I want this one up a bit higher like that? Looks good. Trying to keep them on a similar angle going upward. This one here may be a bit different of an angle there. That bit is done, we could start on the next, on our other one, while we let those bits dry so that we can do another layer on top of that after. Do the same thing with this one right there, right? 11. Birch Tree Details: Sure you washed out that nice brush. And grab your script liner brush and a bit of black. We're not going to need much for black. It doesn't have to be Mars black. If you have a different black, that's fine. Just a wee bit of black on my palette. Wake up the brush if it's dry by putting it in water, brushing it off the excess. Okay, let's grab some black. I want a little bit of water with it. It's not a fluid acrylic, it's a bit thicker. Might need a little bit of water to thin it down a bit. I recommend looking at a real birch tree to help navigate this section, but I'll show you how I do it so it has a bit more of a natural look to it. So all of my marks are basically going to be horizontal and I might use the wood a little bit to navigate this. Like I've got this bump here, would that be fabulous. Has one of the knots in the bark. Okay. I'm going to need more water, Water, way more. Come on, there we go. Bring it out. Bring it out. There we go. Okay. I want to be more like the fluid paint there. Okay? In areas you're going to want these kinds of rounded bits that are the knots in the tree. You're going to have little areas where they have that now. You can just start with little lines here and there, don't do them exactly, one here, one here, one here, one here. Try to do a little bit random. Maybe I'll have one that's in the middle, then maybe over here. Now, plants do sometimes have patterns to them, right? Like if you look at a leaf, there are patterns. However, we don't want it to be too precise looking. I do have them fairly spaced out, pretty evenly. But if you just start with these little lines first, then maybe you have an area that you can add a little bit more of a blotch there. That's all it really takes, just adding a little bit of blotch, that's the technical term, okay, if I bring this up closer for you to see. Might help a bit. Even on the branch, we want to have some of these. It's just that papery type, I'm just doing light little dashes. Make sure your brush is loaded properly, meaning you can use as much paint as you want. Going to take it all the way up to the top of where I have white and all the way down to the base. And I'm going to do that, the same thing, all of these. If you need to turn it so that you can use a more comfortable angle, you can do that. Just make sure that you recognize where the top of your painting is. I don't want all of the dark spots to be in a row. Okay. Maybe I'm going to have one that's here. That one's going to be the bigger one. Now also note this is a smaller tree trunk. My lines should be less visible, In which case I might need to make these ones a little bit bigger so that these can be visible. Okay, some that are in the middle, some that are more spread out, some little dashes, some bigger, then you get a nice amount of variety. You just keep going. Find a new spot to make a nice thick one. Maybe there's a few thick ones in here, they're off to the side a little more. Maybe they're right in the middle. That's going to give that variety that going to look real good, give you that real birch like effect. So they're not all so that people can imagine you're creating the illusion that's like this is a real object because it's going to go all the way around. If you just do it in the center, it's not going to look as fantastically real. Are barely there, Okay, barely there. Use visual changes in maybe the way that you created your line as some of the guide because if something is poking out a certain way, then maybe it works really nicely as a knot in the tree. But definitely use a visual reference. I don't just make marks the way you see me make them. It's going to be more beneficial for you to do a little research. All you have to do is grab your phone. These days, it's a lot easier. You don't have to go find a tree if you want to. If you have trees nearby and maybe even in your backyard, you have these trees, take a look at that papery bark that they have and use that as a guide. Maybe your lines will be better than mine. Okay? Then we look over it and see are there any areas that look overpowering or maybe they need a little bit more like this. Looks like it might need to blend out a bit because it looks too clunky for my liking. A few dots in there. Okay. Any other areas where I want to kind of fix? All right. We'll do the same with the other one and then I'll show you how to sign. That's all we have left. After we do this, we're going to sign this piece. How cool is that? 12. Birch Tree Details Part Two: Hey, so I'm just going to, there is a little touch of I want to do with white. Can you use this brush washed? Oh no. Look at that. Always look at your tool. Sometimes the bristles will separate a little bit if you're working it a little too strong. Be kind to your brush, see how it's splitting at the top? It probably was being a little kind. Okay, fabulous. All right. Now you need to decide on how you're going to sign this. Okay? What color do you want to sign it on? This one I signed with a white. You could sign with white. What is light? It's going to be hard to see that. You can choose a different color. Maybe the blue, maybe blue mixed with white. Maybe a few colors mixed together, maybe gray. Let's see what we want to do here. Maybe the purple mixed in, I don't have much purple that's still there. That should do. I want it nice and thin. Not so thin that it see through. Might be a little bit on the cusp of that. Then I just like to do my initials. So I go little, it's a big K, but then see how I reloaded. Oh, and then this one maybe. Let's add a little of that green in there to that mix. Make sure it's straight up and down again. Choose a spot, maybe right here following the curve of this line. 13. Finishing Touches: All right, now we have our two ornaments signed. A couple more things for one, we can write on the back. If you're going to write any information on the back, maybe your name, maybe the date, maybe a message to whomever you're presenting it for. I have my own thing I put on the back there. Then you can also add a little sparkle. We didn't add our sparkle yet. This one. I was going to add this one. We'll move this one out of the way. Just take a just a little bit. It's going to stay on pretty well. And then once everything's dry, I can just quickly spray with like a fixative of some kind to have it stay on there. And this one here, we're going to use this silvery powder here. I'm sure you spread it out nicely. Then you can tap it off. To tap it a bit off so that you don't have too much going on there. Perfect. Okay. Then you can spray it with some varnish, fixative. When you're writing on the back, make sure you use something that's not going to bleed. I highly recommend these micron pens, this is three and it's a really good size for writing on these that's going to work really well and not bleed on these. I really like that. The last thing we're going to want to do is put in, I'm going to show you how I do this. Part two, you can do something different or you can add like a little bead or a bow. What I do is I just take my two ends. Now this is about 13 " of length that I cut. They're not pre cut for you. Typically, I just pull them together, make a knot, simple knot. And pull it tight so that there's not too much at the top. Okay. Then I pull it like that. Pull the string together so I can make this into a tip. And then I feed that through. Hopefully things aren't too wet still doing this. Feed that through a little wait, not all the way through. Open up the loop part. Feed this through the loop and pull there you have an ornament ready to go. You can spray or spray it. The spray will help to keep everything a little bit more protected. You can use a glossy spray or a matt spray. I'm probably going to use a matt finished spray on these guys. Let's do it again on this one if you want to see how I did the knot again and everything. 13 " that I cut. Make a little, not make sure the knot doesn't take, you don't want the knot down here with like these too long. Pull that into a thin bit. Feed it through the hole a little ways enough that it has space for you to feed this bit through that hole. Tighten it up and it's ready to go. 14. Conclusion: Thank you so much for joining me in today's lesson. What do you think of your ornament? I hope that you were successful in creating it. That you love it so much that you want to share it in the gallery. I can't wait to see it and give you the feedback that you so deserve from taking this class. If you have any feedback you'd like to give me, please write me a review so that I can know what I'm doing well and what I can improve upon. Thank you so much. And if you want to connect with me anywhere else, I'm on Youtube, Tiktok, Instagram, and Facebook. Go check it out on whichever platform you like to be on. We'll see you in next class by now.