Watercolor Sealife Exploration: Dive Into Underwater Ocean Art | Ralitsa Arnaudova | Skillshare

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Watercolor Sealife Exploration: Dive Into Underwater Ocean Art

teacher avatar Ralitsa Arnaudova, Watercolour Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Welcome to Class

      2:42

    • 2.

      Class Overview

      1:43

    • 3.

      Art Suplies

      4:28

    • 4.

      Taping The Paper

      0:46

    • 5.

      Basic Techniques

      5:53

    • 6.

      Advanced Techniques

      15:17

    • 7.

      Starfish - Colour Palette

      3:27

    • 8.

      Transfering The Sketch

      1:41

    • 9.

      Background Wash

      12:47

    • 10.

      Trying of Oranges

      1:05

    • 11.

      First Layer of the Starfish

      4:13

    • 12.

      Sand Waves

      2:37

    • 13.

      Shadows

      6:26

    • 14.

      Highlights and Dark Spots

      5:08

    • 15.

      Sponging & Final Details

      4:18

    • 16.

      Whale Shark - Colour Palette

      2:07

    • 17.

      Transfering the Sketch Whale Shark

      3:25

    • 18.

      Background Wash

      12:56

    • 19.

      Quick Tip

      0:29

    • 20.

      First Layer of the Whale Shark

      10:35

    • 21.

      Enhance the Darks

      3:05

    • 22.

      Painting the Body Pattern

      11:30

    • 23.

      Define the Whale Shark

      4:45

    • 24.

      Add Highlights (Final Details)

      5:16

    • 25.

      Thank You

      1:09

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About This Class

Unleash your creativity and embark on this captivating artistic journey into the mesmerizing world of underwater creatures with our class "Watercolor Sealife Exploration: Dive Into Ocean Art" ! This comprehensive class is designed to provide you with a solid foundation in watercolor, by teaching you essential watercolor techniques, some super important advanced techniques and even let you explore the tactile experience of finger painting and the fun of the sponging technique. Throughout the class you will receive step-by-step instructions that will guide you through two enchanting class projects featuring a Starfish resting on the soft sand waves and the majestic Whale Shark.

Let your creativity flow as freely as the ocean itself.



What You Will Learn:

  • Different ways to transfer your sketch to your watercolor paper.
  • All the basic watercolor techniques, including wet-on-wet, wet-on-dry, dry-on-wet and dry brushing technique .
  • Explore some advanced watercolor techniques, such as lifting and pulling color down (softening the edges) and different ways of splattering with watercolors.
  • How to add interest to your painting with sponging and finger painting techniques.
  • Explore the intricate array of blue shades that we will use in this class and how to mix some of the colors if you don't have them premixed.
  • How to create smooth background blends and how to add some fun details to them.
  • How to make your foreground element pop, so you can keep the interest in the viewer's eyes.
  • How to create a sense of depth in a visibly simple painting with only one foreground element. 
  • Different ways to paint the super detailed pattern on the Whale Shark with two different techniques, depending on the accuracy that you would like to achieve.

Why you should take this class:

For some people watercolor is the most difficult medium to learn, but in my opinion you can learn how to master watercolors, if you just learn the right techniques, how the paper and the color work together and you spend enough time practicing them. Whether you're a complete beginner or an intermediate artist looking to expand your skills, this class offers an incredible opportunity to enhance your watercolor skills, learn super fun new techniques and challenge oneself to push it`s boundaries to a new level.

By the end of this class, you'll have developed the skills and confidence to embark on your own watercolor underwater adventures. You'll possess the knowledge to find inspiration from your own reference images, compose captivating artwork, and bring your visions to life with calming colors and mesmerizing techniques.

Even if you never painted in watercolor before you took this class, I got your back. We will learn all the basics together and gradually increase all the information, whilst keeping it easy to understand and digest. 

If you are an advanced or intermediate artist who just happened to drop by here, then I’m sure that you will still find some interesting concepts that can improve your paintings.

Who is this class for:

This class welcomes artists of all backgrounds who are eager to learn and embrace the art of exploring the Sea Life and learn how to paint the Underwater Creatures.

  • If you are a beginner, then this class will be super helpful because you will learn all of the basic techniques, some advanced, a few fun techniques and also how to break down a reference image to a simple sketch in our class projects.
  • If you are an advanced or intermediate artist who just happened to drop by here, then I’m sure that you will still find some interesting concepts that can improve your paintings.

Let's embark on this exciting journey together and discover the beauty that awaits in this underwater adventure class. Enroll now and let your imagination soar!

If you have any questions about any of the concepts in this class, please don't hesitate to head over to the discussions section under this class and ask me anything and everything and I'll be happy to help!

 By the end of this class, you will have an understanding of how Watercolor behaves and how to work with it, instead of trying to control it. Through learning all the basics you will build a perfect knowledge base and confidence in your skills, so you can implement everything learnt above in your future paintings. You will have completed two step-by-step projects and be ready to explore more creative tasks. 

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Ralitsa Arnaudova

Watercolour Artist

Teacher
Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Welcome to Class: Welcome to the captivating world of watercolor. In this exciting Watercolor class, I invite you to dive deep into the enchanting kingdom of Watercolour Creatures. Get ready to unleash your creativity and immerse yourself in the fascinating beauty of the Sea. Hello friends, my name is suddenly entity. I invite you to embrace your imagination and dive deep into the beauty of the undersea world. I believe painting with watercolors for the past three years. And I've been constantly looking for different ways that I can improve my skills and enjoy watercolors. For the past few months, I've been exploring the undersea world, finding different ways to depict their beauty with watercolors. For our first project, I will transport you to the serine needs of the ocean as we explored the delicate allure of a Starfish, learning to capture the essence of this magnificent creature carefully bring in its vibrant Hughes and intricate details to life on paper. Because we depict the Starfish gracefully resting on the soft ocean floor. Who discovered the mesmerizing interplay of light and shadow and the magical translucency of watercolors. With my guidance, you'll learn various techniques to create a captivating backdrop of gentle waves and see, Let's keep blending colors to create a peaceful masterpiece, building upon skills developed in our first project, we embark on deck scary Jing journey, think come to the magnificent Whale Shark in our second painting, this extra ordinate creature provide the main production to explore a wide array of dynamic watercolor techniques, from the playful splattering paint and water to the innovative use of sponge and even the tactile experience of painting, which your fingers move, push the boundaries of traditional watercolor methods. This project will not only are fine your technical abilities, but also ignite your imagination. As you capture the grace and power. Whale Shark, it's watery habitat. Throughout this course, you will receive personalized instruction and guidance to unleash your artistic potential, whether you are a beginner or an intermediate to them. I believe that this class will immerse you in the world. Creativity, allowing you to express yourself, unique and mesmerizing or your ad. So join me on this artistic adventure and let your creativity flow as freely as the ocean itself. 2. Class Overview: Welcome to Class, my friend. I'm beyond grateful that you are here with me. I'll start this class by mentioning all the materials that we will need to complete the class, the NLU explore all of the different watercolor techniques that will work with throughout the class. Who start with some basic techniques like wet-on-wet, wet-on-dry, dry-on-wet and dry brushing, which are the absolute necessity for learning watercolor. Learn how to enhance your painting and create by lifting and pulling color down. And then last but not least, will learn how to bring some magic to our painting with splattering, sponging, and even dipping our own fingers into the weird thing. This class is created for, For Beginners and intermediate students who feel that you don't want to take the techniques, please feel free to skip them and come to join me for the final projects. Before we paint each project who have a quick overview of the colors that will use in the project itself. Remember that you can always ask me any question that may occur or if you need some help or guidance whilst your painting, just reach out to me and I'll be happy to help you. When you have completed your final projects. Don't forget to take a photo and upload it to the project in the resources section of the class for chicken comment on each of your class projects. Are you ready? I'll see you in the next lesson where we will discuss all of the materials that we will need for this class 3. Art Suplies: In this video, have a look at the materials that who use in this class. First, I'm using hundred percent cotton, watercolor paper or you Saunders Waterford cold pressed to come through GSM. I'm the sais other truths for the techniques and the main projects, it's 11 by 15 inch or 28, bifurcates into my thirst. And half of that size for the swatch and off the colors. We also need some masking tape and abort cheap down the water quality. That creates a beautiful white border and prevents the paper from booklet. For Palette, I use, use large led by Magellan mission with one mixing well, what You can use, whatever you have available to transfer our drawing seem to the watercolor paper. I will use mechanical pencil in a soft eraser. The main brushes that who needs in our painting around and pulling chip watercolor brushes are size 48.12, silver black velvet brushes, but you can choose your favorite ones. Just make sure that they keep nice pointy tip for Final Details. Need to also solve large brush to apply the water over the entire background. In the initial wash of each main project, I will use hake brush size 20, or some people call it hacker, who also use flop park bristle brush. There isn't controllable in we can apply finding directions platters with them. They also are perfect for lifting paint. Now also use a fan brush with soft bristles, softening some of the paint and splatters, but you can use any conference soft brush. Then we'll play with a simple dishwashers bunch. Or you can use horse his punch there super from to use. And they create amazing fixtures. I know explore their possibilities, now work different sections. First, I will also use missed bottled, very wet my paints so they can soft down. I can pick up a large amount of pain. But once we will also use on watercolors, but you can completely octane for either chips for pan watercolors, or even squeeze some of your friends in financing you've, in this way, It's totally up to you. I will also use whitewash. I know that's a multiple artist, doesn't use white and passed him sheets in your works. But I will show you their possibilities and I absolutely love them. In this class will also use some napkins or kitchen roll and a cotton chiton. It's super important for me because it have a very high absorbency and Suan of my essentials. I'm the last but not least, we will also use a tracing paper to transfer the drawing to the watercolor before we feed. Don't have any. I'll just show you here, I'm inside here different techniques that you can use. Transfer your drawing. And I'll see you in the next lesson where I'll show you how to tape your paper into the board 4. Taping The Paper: In this lesson, I'll show you how to keep your paper to the board. I'm forced to roughly measuring the size of the tape to be a bit larger than the size of the paper. Just way the people stick nicely on each side. Then I press firmly in the tape before I entered the war as well, to ensure that the paint won't bleed below the tip. Using painter's tape is essential in order to achieve straight white borders. And although each artists have their own preferences, I highly recommend you. I'll see you in the next lesson where we're some analytical 5. Basic Techniques: In this lesson, we'll explore the four main techniques in watercolor. But before we start with them, it's create two different mixtures. They'll help us to understand better the lifting technique in the last lesson. The first mix shirt that I'm applying to the top of the square is favorable and failed green. They creep more, just jerk always color. The second mixture is made the French ultramarine and burnt sienna. And we will apply of tick Layer of it, the bottom part of the same square. I'm also adding a little bit of water in the middle of them so they can March little bit. Then I'm preparing unfold with the car mine, but you can use any of your preferred colors for this exercise. For any of the formula. It's important that you are using only the same type of paper for the exercises of the main projects. That will help you to understand better the behavior of your own people. When we're exploring the forming techniques in watercolor, we have to remember that they refer to the relation between the brush in the playbook way, the brush is the force that we speak about. The paper is the second. So in this case, wet-on-wet technique means that will apply wet paint to the already wet surface, such as pretty moisten people or still wet layer of paint. When using this technique, we're ensuring that all day just seen on this layer will retain their soft edges. The result of using wet-on-wet technique can be up, become predictable. But with time and extra practicing of water control, you can learn how to better control the outcome. When painting in the wet on wet technique, you can create your new shapes and seamless blend of color that you can create amazing, vacant lots to your paintings with. I highly recommend you to spend some time on each technique and have found, explore the possibilities, explore what else you can achieve. I'm really enjoying the time spent. That will help you to learn better each of the techniques and master them over time. To wet-on-dry technique, where for when we're applying wet paint into a dry surface, you just could be a dry paper or a layer of paint that have dried already. The lack of moisture in the paper where ensure that your paint won't bleed into other areas. That will allow you to paint with more detailed. Show more saturated colors. I'm leave hard edges wet on dry concrete, bolts and detailed can go to your brushstrokes. I it's usually used details for your paintings. When you painting wet on dry, you have to keep in mind that you will routine hard edges. So you can use techniques like softening on pulling down color, if you would like to avoid just hard edges. But in theory, the joy start to have a wet-on-dry and creating the heart edges. I swarm of its positives as well. I'm allowed to paint is down. You can still work on it with wet on the parts that are already wet. So next one is dry on wet. As that suggests, that we're using a thick consistency of paint to a pretty moisten surface. By using this technique will ensure high control over the placement in the spreading of the paint on the paper. If you don't want to use highly pigmented mixture, but instead you some mixture with more water. You can absorb the excess moisture from your brush before you are using it. In this case, I am showing you here that even though I'm using a soft brush, I can dab the excess paint on to a B, Patricia. And I already have a better control over the outcome. Here, you can see that I'm even softening some of the edges. I'm coloring back. What some of the Carmine mixture. The promotion paper. And because I removed more and more moisture from my soft brush, my brushstrokes are even more distinct and they are not really moving or age on the surface of the paper. Last but not least, drawn dry, or also known as dry brush technique, to dry brushing wherefore when we're using a very thick paint mixture. And when applied to a dry surface, the dry brush is dropped across the surface of the paper. And you're releasing the pigment, the raised bumps off the paper, which is leaving the valleys of the paper untouched. It works better with cold pressed and the rough paper there are for is the texture, the look created who'll be even more dramatic and phon 6. Advanced Techniques: Our next technique is pulling color down, or also known softening the edges. Issues when we're applying wet paint to dry paper and then using a clean damp brush to pull the color away from the application. This leaves us with one part and one soft edge. To ease yourself, I recommend you to use two brushes, one to apply the color and the second brush to soften the edges. That will also speed up the process. Another thing that I can see about the pulling color down or softening the edges. You can call it a Jewish, is that you can try softening the edges on both sides and things like that. In this case, I much rather use dry on wet technique. Mucosa is more precise and effect is softer. And it can be better. In this case, softening the edges, better be used only on one side. The next technique that uses super firm Ernie's splattering with hard bristle brush. I recommend you to use a watery consistency of paint when using the sticky. This will give you better control of the size and placement of the splatters. The more water you have on your paint mixture, the more it will spread on the width area. Awesome. I highly recommend you to protect the surface around the area that you're planning to splatter in. To do that, you can place a tissue paper or something that you don't really care about around the desired area. If it's a small place, some Into my non-dominant hand. So because I don't really mind to get us plotter to paint. But you do you love lamp? If you mind it, just cover the surface around with a tissue paper or already used painting like the back of it. Something that you don't really care about. And you will just protect all of the surface around that. Also, when you're aiming to plot our getters closest possible to the paper, that will give you a better control over the splatters. The further you move from the paper, the less control you have. Also the more saturated pigment is in the paint mixture, the smaller your spreader splatters will appear, in the more water you add, your splatters will be obviously bigger. When using this technique, I always use my finger. As you can see here, I'm just sliding the bristles of the brush over my finger whilst aiming where exactly I want the splatters. For that reason. Clean your finger between each column as they will mix. I am always pay attention. Are you using the staining colors if you are trying to Wash your hands immediately to prevent stains. When you're creating splatters with soft bristle brush, exactly the same rules will apply. The biggest difference is that the brushes that have soft bristles move more We will talk. I don't know, that's quite obvious for some. But the biggest the biggest size of the brush. It will also hold a bigger amount of paint and water. Also, if you want to leave your splatters to a pure chance, even if you don't have large brush, you can load it with paint on top over the handle of the brush, which you've been golf or other brush from high. And you can enjoy the magic of watercolor spreading in the most unpredictable places. Sometimes even on the wolves and the coelom of your own home. Oh, well, it's a proper chance. I wasn't really experimenting when I started painting with watercolor. And from what I can observe, I'm experimenting more and more with each year following. And I can see a massive difference. I really recommend you try every friend, try splattering from close. I'm aiming to create the most desirable splatters. You can aim from high and just get totally crazy with your outcome. I really suggest you just try out more and have FUN. I think that's the best advice Stop I could ever receive from someone. And I just wanted to tell you the exactly same thing. In as you can see, the loss on their role is to splattering with clean water because it was an absolute failure. I split it up. So hopefully you can see how the water is pushing the pigment away, revealing or more clear paper underneath. I recommend you to try for yourself and also try pushing the pigment away what's sold and rice grains preferably uncooked. I am. That would get you even more from the results. Have a look which one your life better. And you can always implemented to future paintings. If you would like to see some of the results from this technique, you can double-check my first Skillshare class, practical watercolors. He escapes, learn to compose your own some of paintings. In, I think that you really enjoyed that as well. Without anymore ramble, I will go to the next technique. In here it comes, one of my favorite techniques. And this is the finger painting technique. And just a quick disclaimer before you use this technique. I know, I know that the oil pumps in your hands change the watercolor paper forever once in contact. Awesome. I haven't seen any other artists manipulating the paint on this way. And I don't know how it will affect in the loan Chrome us a good quality paper and paints can stay vibrant in glorious like day one for hundreds of fierce. And if you keep them in good condition without set, I find this technique super form anything yet. And I can that if you try it, you only have lots of PFK-1 and perhaps even fall in love with it. So let's go before you start playing around with it. I recommend you to Wash your hands. Well, I'm just will ensure that you have less skin OLS on your fingers for the best results. I find that a medium thickness of your watercolor mixture works the best. But of course, try them out, see what you can create. The more you hold your finger, the bigger the mark will appear on the paper. Also, if you want to keep the cause clean dishwasher finger between the different colors. Otherwise, they're all mixed together, which of course can create gorgeous mixtures like the purple Creative between this turquoise color. In the pink one. You can also dip your fingers into wet paint and make colorful marks and have FUN. And one more thing to keep in mind when painting a finished piece. Keep in mind that if you are using this technique over an animal, it can create the illusion of a small box. So maybe just don't go overboard. Let's explore a bit of sponge painting. Now. This technique can be super form. I'm Kim, speed up your painting process like literally 510 times. You can use a standard kitchen sponge as I am using here. You can also of course, try a sea sponge. Each wavelet broken into pieces will create different marks on the paper when users punch, press lightly. So you can create from random sheets. If you press too hard, you can create a big blob of color. You feel low, just punch to match. You can squeeze it and then tap the excess paint, one tissue paper or cotton rag. Also, it's good to keep in mind the four main watercolor techniques. So in this case, you would like to create soft and diffused edges. We have to apply the paint to wet surface. I know we can create cart marks if we apply the paint on dry paper. For just technique, I really highly recommend you try using different shapes of sponge. Try it both on a pretty moisten paper to see all the different soft edges that you can create. I would really recommend you to use that without any paint being hovered the paper underneath, but you can totally use it as well. For example, I've used the same technique before. For example, in a background layer of clouds, I'm waiting for the clouds to completely dry. Then using the sponging to create a lovely leafy greens or even trees and bushes with a sponge. I am here. I'm just showing you that if you adopt way too much of the, of the paint in one place, it can really look super weird. I need can look very blobby. So give a little bit of space. If you have just dab the excess paint onto tissue or something like that. And just try all the different possibilities so you know, the different outcomes that you can achieve. And here we reach our last but super important technique when lifting paint from already tried layer of paint, we can create different effects from pseudo how highlights. Bringing back the white of the paper. You can gently apply a little bit of water and let it stay there for few seconds and wipe only basis paint. This way you can create the subtle highlights. You can also agentless crop your watercolor paper, which differ brush, wait for our shrew-like eradicate, or even mask away surface around it, Wash it on the same. You can even use a magic sponge. The possibilities are absolutely limitless. I know that hearing about washing away the surface of the paper on the sink may sound a little bit insane in a way, but it works very well with a good-quality watercolor paper. You can try some different demos, but you can also just enjoy me lifting paint here from both the staining colors that are that your quiz. Blue dot. We treat it by feel of doing fail green. You can see how the paper is really stained in, doesn't matter. Mice probative around with my hard bristle brush. It won't go back to white. Where if I'm trying to lift the watercolor layer that was created from burnt sienna and French Ultramarine. We can really go into the white of the paper. That's not the case with staining colors. And you only wait, I know that you can go back to white with staining colors is by scratching the surface of the paper with a sharp mark, which essentially means that we are just crunching away or in moving completely the top layer of the paint. In the next lesson, we'll explore our color palettes 7. Starfish - Colour Palette: In this lesson, we're explore the color subtle used for the Starfish. I'm the first one is fill of green or it's PG seven, followed by mint green, which is awesome pigment green seven. But a smelter little bit differently. So if you would like to create the same pastel look, but you don't have pastel colors. You can make, you can use a mixed fail green with whitewash. I'll just show you right here how to look together. Perfectly fine. I am. The more white you arch to the mixture. The lighter, basically or pastel color will appear. The next color that we'll explore. In my work, Starfish painting is pigment yellow for to to pigment brown 6.7, as well as pigment white. So it's quite complicated. And if you would like substituted for it, buff titanium is absolutely wonderful and it's made from only one pigment is pigment wide six column one. So if you would like to use it in any mixtures, I highly recommend you to choose a color up half less pigments mixed into it. And that will create on my soar, on not so dull mixes. The next one is umbo, is pigment yellow, 43, pigment brown, pigment black seven. And if you would like, you can create an MBA with whitewash and that will get you are very close to both 18, um, and germs as well will need some burnt sienna, which can be pigment brown seven, as the first one you can see swatch here. It can be also pigment the right one-on-one averaging created a bands of the brand that you are using. In my case, I have them both in my palette, just because I have two different brands. The following one is French ultramarine, which is pigmented 29. I'm mixed together with burnt sienna concrete. Lovely, lovely colors. The full-on one I'm swatching here is Carmine, which is per hundred and 71, but you can substitute it with any core rate, like alizarin crimson or quin rose. Then we also have a golden deep, which is pigment orange 62. I'm cadmium orange, which is pigment orange 20th as well. All of them. We can use white goulash, which is pigment W6. And if you would like to use in whitewash, you can just pretty mask the areas that you would like to preserve him advanced. Just before you start painting? 8. Transfering The Sketch: Are you ready? Let's jump to our first main project. In this lesson, mood transfer, our sketch, flower watercolor paper. You can try. You can find the traceable in the projects and resources section of the class, or you can just freehand it. In my case, I'll use a tracing paper, which you don't have to. Here you can observe some other techniques that you can use, the transfer your drawing into the paper as well. And as you can see, before I even start tracing the be form for our state double check. Is it the shiny sides of the tracing paper facing down? Or is it the MAC site? It's very important that the shiny side is facing down. I will watercolor paper because that's the part that contains graphite. One last thing before you position your sketch onto the paper and start tracing it over. Just make sure that you take your time and move the Sketch around, choose the best possible placement for your sketch. And then when you feel comfortable, start tracing it over. Transfer your sketch with light movements and double-check before you remove the tracing paper. Once you happy, you can use kneaded eraser to lift off the excess graphite and get ready for painting 9. Background Wash: Before we start preparing our color mixes, spring your colors to reactivate them and apply multiple layers of water to your watercolor paper. Who do this both before and after the color preparation of each color. One sure that our painful give very moist to get moist to the deepest fibers of it. So we can ensure that who work on our painting for as long as it's possible. Once you apply few layers of all, let's prepare our first mixture. A little bit of white Wash would fail the green. So we can create the SF minty color. You can swatch it on a separate piece of paper to check the intensity in do you need to Art anymore white or anymore favor green for the mixture? Keep in mind that you can add more water if you'd like to make the mixture a little bit more watery. I feel like to have a car just stop adding any more water. Sometimes it's also happening that would look at our paint to wait too much. No worries in case like that. Just let it dry on your palate. Don't forget that watercolor can be reactivated and reuse. Time and time again. I need to look perfectly fine and it will work on the exact same way. The very first time. Obviously it won't be ducts thinking preemie if you, if that's the desired result that you would like if you'd like to work with dry, wet surface. But in our case, we would like to work wet on wet. So we want to have relatively buttery consistency. But we want to have some moisture insights with glide easily on the paper. But it's not spreading way too much. After adding few more layers of watercolor paper, we can create a puddle of sand color. And in this case, I'm using germs color. But you can use buffet chain, your truth, or any of the other mixtures that we mentioned previously. The tiny bottle that you can see me use them is just a pure ward off. I'm not dipping my brush in clean water yet. That way. I'm just keeping it clean. U4 little bit longer. When you are using pastel colors, are colors contained White. Otherwise sit. You can contaminate your water very fast. So that's what I'm trying to avoid it by using two different brushes, one for the mint color and another one for our sandy color. Here, I'm just creating a swatch of the two colors to check how strong the mixing of the mixtures of God. And no one wants to double check off of the mixture. And we're happy with them. The one next to the other. That mean only one thing. It's time to have some FUN. If you filter. Now it's the moment to add another layer of water if you'd like to, or if you have any puddles forming on your paper, you can the extra water with your hake brush. That will be perfectly fine. Take your time, observe the condition of your watercolor paper, and when you read, you can enroll. In my case, I can see that I have a little bit of water collected on the sides of my paper sham just dabbing it. Devin, they access with tissue paper. And then I'm starting with the sand color creed and sweeping motions from left to right, back and forth and leave the star. And the top part of our painting. I'm painted. Once I'm happier with the placement of my Sunday column, then I can take the minty color as well in order to create a sense of distance in our theme. To start with placing the mint color on the upper third of the painting, ensuring that the upper part of it who still lighter. So I'm basically just using their race Jeff paint on my brush and using sweeping motions left and right. I'm just lighten the color around. But for me, the most important part is that the concentrated color is from the bottom part is a Burke dark. You can see I'm just adding the color on the bottom. Them gently sliding it up. Once happy, I can just start using sweeping left and right motions with my brush. And I didn't the mean to color in the image parts Painting or otherwise set the parts that haven't been painted with our sandy color. Keep adding buffer mixtures with weak free horizontal brushstrokes. Avoiding to paint over the Starfish. Just gently paint around it. You can intensify the color on the foreground. And that will show us that this part of the painting is closer to the viewer. So we're basically doing exactly the opposite of leaving lighter paint on top of our painting showing distance. Also super important that you would like to suggest some distance. We have to have more blue appearing colors. That will suggests distance as well. The cooler the color that mean is more in the distance and the warmer and more vibrant, just the color that you suggesting that is closer to us. Once you're happy with this resort, that you can start our demand if I become burnt sienna, our Sunday mixture, you feel like to suggest even more vibrancy in our painting. We can use even pure burnt sienna in to our sweeping motions in the foreground. Feel free to act as much as you want, but just make sure that you are not overpowering all the sandy color, not covering it completely. You sway, will keep some more. Hughes who keeps some more interest in our painting. And it will be nice and firm. Once your 50 per cent happy with it, it's time to get the star of the show, our hard bristle brush and start to create the splatters over the foreground and the mic drowned by awarding the Starfish and the top minty area. But if it happens to splatter there by chance, nothing to worry. We can always use our dry hake brush or a fan brush to soften the splatters, paint and merge them with the background or or CPS plot or the star. We can use the soft damp brush to lift it out. Because you can see in the beginning and come just gliding the bristles of the hard bristle brush over my finger. And this way, I'm ensuring that I have control over the placement. Was plotters. Once happy with huge column. Repeat this tape with all the following colors. I am. Just have FUN with it. Don't forget to clean your finger between the red and green mixtures or between the sandy color and the minty color as well. You can add as many are a little splatters as you wish. In don't forget that this plot are so pure smaller if we're closer to the paper and if we will use a thicker framing consistency or inconsistency of paint. And if we would like to have a larger splatter so we can just add a little bit of water tower mixture in that way ruling sure that our splattering will get a little bit bigger. Just have and enjoy what a comma. And one more thing, you could just feel that now you are lacking brushstrokes. Always feel free to add more. But in each case, focus more on your painting and how it's coming together. Don't focus on my painting because each one of them will look differently. You can add, of course, some orphans, plotters and clean water to your painting. But everything is completely up to your liking. If you like it to be more rich, we can more splatters. If you would like to be more simple, you can just try to find out which your fan brush or with a Hake brush, a little bit of the splatters. And when you happy with it, let it completely dry or you can blow dry it or use a heat gun. Just have FUN. And I'll see you in the next lesson. 10. Trying of Oranges: Before I start painting the Starfish, let's try to see how the different Oranges may look with our background colors. First, I'll swatch the book, the minty color. I'm the sandy color with tiny little burnt sienna. Have a base for our swatch card. I'm ****, I can add a little bit of cadmium orange on the left side, trying to fill with a transparent orange just in the right-hand side of it. Then just to experiment, even, we can add some cadmium red light, a little bit of fog to our main subject to make it stand out from the background and keep the attention of the viewer to the main subject or set. Otherwise, it can make our painting a lot more interesting. The viewer 11. First Layer of the Starfish: In this lesson, we'll paint the base layer of our Starfish and to prepare it carefully at the base layer of water to the Starfish that will ensure that the smooth blending of the colors will be seamless. And we can work on it for a lot longer. Then, once we're happy with application of the water, we can start applying transparent orange, which we can just call simple orange. And we can intensify the color here and here by adding more paint. I'm remember to also paint the tiny tip of the Starfish That's just poke him for the yellow and after sand dune. Once you're happy with the placement of the orange, you can graph and the pelvic bones here. And just place it here and here. Put it down completely randomly. In this way, it will look a little bit more nitro us. Everything in nature is not really symmetrical. Now to give it hello, lovely, natural look. Once happy with the placement of the brown mixture, then we can continue with darker, more, deeper brown color. So create that you just add a touch of ultramarine to our burnt sienna. So this way we're not overpowering the burnt sienna and we're just creating darker brown instead of gray. When I didn't any foreign color or tried to put them down in non-uniform mother. Just different tiny dots here in there. If you feel that you are lacking learned over the fluorite, you can always go back to door in short, the button CMO to the darker mixture. If you feel that it's a way to overwhelm them, you can always grab people a little bit of water and that will push the pigment around. Just feel what your painting needs. Once you're happy with it, just let it completely dry. And I'll see you in the following lesson. 12. Sand Waves: Now that our Starfish is dry, Let's make sure that our large brush is sweet and ready for softening the bottom edge of our sand dunes, or otherwise said, pulling color them with our medium brush, we can take over the orange and brown column and apply it with the light sweeping motion, trying to create a way the sheep add a little bit of mint color Towards the Starfish. So the line doesn't look so boring. Then you can check your large brush and soften the bottom edge after sand gems. And now it's time to do the same for all the remaining jumps that you want to add. Some of them can be more distinct on the left side, others on the right side. And even some of them can just appear in the middle of our painting that who aren't a lot of movement and make it even more intricate. When agenda lines behind the Starfish Art, more and more water to your mixture of paint that will make them appear in the distance. It will help even more if you manage to make them feel flow as well. When painting the Jews just in front of the Starfish tried to add the curvy line on such a way that we will look like Jonas touching the Starfish. This way, it will appear that GMT off the ice fault of the Starfish is hidden by the sand dunes. Also, if you feel that you are lacking any interests in the foreground, you can always add a little bit of splattering, which your mint color or with your sand color, with the burnt sienna mixed Trump. Just grab your soft brush and up to few more splatters here and dear. Only if you feel that you are lacking them. Don't look at my painting for loop with GRP term. Observe what's happening there. Because no painting over the same. Even if it's painted by exactly the same person. When you are ageing, let it dry completely before you continue to the next lesson. 13. Shadows: In this lesson, we'll add the shadows below our starfish. In order to do that will create a creamy mixture of carmine, French ultramarine, burnt sienna. I'm tiny little bit of cadmium orange. When I didn't the shadows, It's important to focus on painting them on only one side. So they will look believable. In our case, we will paint them towards us. Turn sure that we have created the correct column. We can test it first on a separate piece of paper and soft and digest. So see how to apply who answers watered down. We'll load our medium-size brush with pink enough to paint the shadows but without making it feel and as it's dripping, to ensure that you didn't overload your brush. And you can tap the excess of it on a paper tissue or your cotton rock. Them, use your large soft brush to soften the edges of your shadows. Will add them under each of the race or a some podium arms. This will make our Starfish appear three-dimensional. If you feel that the shadows are dark enough at some places, let that site dry and add another layer on top of it. Repeat the same action for each of the race and don't forget to paint. The shadows are always facing us or towards us. Take her time and make sure that you won't forget GM of the tiny array that you're speaking for, the sand waves on the buck. Just make sure that you are just the tiniest little shadow there and that will make it part of the Starfish. Also feel free. Pool, move your board in all directions. Make it comfortable experience for yourself. Painting have to give us pleasure from this unique experience, not making us feel like we're at in a competition. You can always move your board to the donor site. Just make sure it's comfortable for you and you're having FUN whilst painting. I'll leave you now to enjoy the music. Once your painting the shadows, just apply the paint and soften the edges. That's how 14. Highlights and Dark Spots: In this lesson, we'll add some highlights, some more Dark Spots enhance our painting. So first let's clean a little bit of space on our palette. And then we will squeeze the tiny little bit of white, Wash your Palette. You can also add few tiny drops of water, which our brush or with your list bottle. But don't add too much. As if you look the mixture too much, it will lose its opaque qualities and instead of appearing white, it will look more like a dirty spots on top of your Starfish. To apply the Wash. I'm using my smallest brush. I'm using just the tip of the brush. As you can see, I'm applying the paint in one uniform weight. So it will look more interesting. Some types of starch, facial half random types of Pattern. But if you prefer to add a certain pattern to the dots, please feel free. It will be super interesting for me to see your results. Will also add a little bit of shadowing mixture here and here. Just try not to overdo it as it starts to look. Looking very, very, very fast. So first up, your pattern with the white spots and then add the darker spots as well. Familiar with them. And it's completely up to you. Would you like to add some smaller dots are larger ones. Don't forget that nature. Everything is super interesting just because it's all different. So even each array of our starfish will look different than the others. Some of the dots will be smaller, some of them will be larger. Some Starfish us will have a certain pattern and other others like my one. In particular, we'll look super chaotic. It's totally up to you what you would like to bring to your Starfish. The most important thing here, just to have and enjoy the process. This process is super repetitive and super easy, just because there is not a particular way that you have to add your white spots to the Starfish. So just feel free at the dots, whatever you want. Just enjoy the process AS wet-on-dry is the easiest technique here where a lot soften any edges. Just how tiny little details the process could be very method made it a tiff. If you're just locks and do it dot by dot. So I will leave you now to enjoy that process allows you in the next lesson. 15. Sponging & Final Details: Another super FUN trick that we can use in our painting is using the sponging technique. This time instead of transparent, orange will use cadmium orange as it's a big qualities. So it will be visible over the other colors. Load your sponge with the craving mixture. And if you are afraid to affect the color around the Starfish, you can use a piece of tissue to cover the surface around it while she are painting, there are Rabaa sponging. Make sure that you're using gentle tapping motions to avoid a big blobs of color, exactly like we've done the exercises. Here. I also, so that I need to increase the shadows after I spoke, sponging around with the orange color. So I will once again apply the dark mixture, mixture and softening with my brush. Here is also very important to cultural painting. And to feel, does it need enhancement, or is it looking good like that? Stockpiled in any lights and darks? What does you're happy with your painting? But if you feel that you cover way too much of your shadows and lights with orange paint. A few absolutely free to add some more darks and some more highlights to your starfish. Here I feel that I can improve the shadows under the Starfish by adding a little bit more color. I'm softening the edges and you figure that just makes sure that you have all of your shadows under the Starfish with the same tone. So if you add on one side and you need to adjust the other ones, just make sure to add more shadows to all the sides, including the little poke can array from the buck Waves. Once you feel happy with your painting, then we can take a little bit of the leftover paint from your palette, or even use a specific color. Let your life to use your signature through our own finished painting. I know that some artist name and sign the back of the painting by like to just sign it in the front. Would you like let me know in the discussions section of the class. For me, this is one of the cutest parts in my favorite parts of the painting process. So I'm always taking my time to make my signature exactly as I would like to look like. Once you're happy with your signature, you can remove the tape of your painting at the mango in that revealed the crisp white frame around it. That was the most suggested your requests and install. So I hope you enjoy having the crisp white border around your painting. And I hope you liked this class projects. So once you finish your painting, upload it to the Projects and Resources section of the class. So we can all see your gorgeous painting. And I can give you my common Paris over it. Thank you for painting it with me. 16. Whale Shark - Colour Palette: In this class will have a look at the different colors that we're using for the Whale Shark. The first one is failure of blue green sheet, which is pigment Glu 15 columns. F3 is a cool blue. So that me and I crave vibrant greens. If it's used with yellow. The follow-on one is a fill of green, or also known as very gym for example. And it's pigment green seven, or p27. Next one that we will use in the class is cobalt blue, which is pigment blue 28, or PB 28. A little bit. Moral panic is cobalt, turquoise light, which is made from pigment green, five-year or PGA 50. I use a lovely, lovely turquoise color as well. The next color that who use in the class will be Indian trim blue or P basics. This is very chest pigment that who use in our painting. The next one will be Carmine, pigment, red hundred and 70 comb one. Where if you don't have Carmine, you can use any pink or rather any rate. So you can use Alizarin crimson, you can use quinacridone, red. And each will work perfectly fine in the last color that who use in our painting is whitewash, which is pigment wide six or W6 17. Transfering the Sketch Whale Shark: Welcome to the first lesson of our Whale Shark. Here it will transfer the sketch to our watercolor paper. I will use transfer paper, but you can use any methods that you like. Here on the right, you can see some of the most common ways of transfering the Sketch. Just choose whichever one fits you better. If you chose this method, first, position your sketch to the desired position. In general, following the rule of thirds is best advice. But this time I'll place it more or less in the middle of our paper. Once you happy Jenkins secure paper with a little bit of tape so it won't move around. And you can start outlining the shape of the Whale Shark. We'll watercolor paper. Make sure that you are not pressing too hard over the transfering paper as it can stain your paper. Cheek. Her time with just tip. It doesn't really require much effort, but it's very important. Make sure that you have transfer then fire outline before you remove the Sketch. And then you can lighten it with a kneaded eraser. When outlining, I highly recommend you to start from one side to now. In my case, I'll start with the left-hand side. Now for all the outlines up to the tail and then go backwards on the bottom sites, all of the tiny details. So we can add, once we've finished the entire outline in front and plant will add the gills openings in the eye exactly after we finish with the outline of the Whale Shark. This way we can make sure that we have transfer the entire sketch and we didn't miss any part of it. Before you remove the print and transfer paper, keep the paper down one hand and with the other hand. Lift lift the papers and check. Do you have any missing that you may want to include? I'm always chicken multiple times, so before I release it, I'm left the papers. Then we can always lift the excess graphite with the soft kneaded eraser. And if you have any marks from the transfer paper to the paper, we can lift them with the same kneaded eraser as well. Meat means the next lesson where we'll create the background Wash 18. Background Wash: First, apply a generous amount of water to the entire surface of your paper multiple times. Cotton paper is very thirsting to ensure that we have learned time to work in our first Layer, we have to apply water multiple times. Have to apply lots of water without leaving any puddles sitting on top. So try to distribute, distribute it to create our first mixture. I'm taking the amount of failed would fail green with a tiny little chalk, cobalt blue. Then I'm diluting it with a little bit of water from my water bottle. Eating chicken medical with of this mixture site creating a separate puddle. There. I'll add a little bit more cobalt blue and a bit of cobalt turquoise light. You can add color and water multiple times until you're happy with the mixture. You just keep warm eye on how ficus my mixture. As you can see, my mixtures on the creamy side. So don't add too much water, just lots and lots of pigment. And keep adjusting until you're happy with it. Then with a separate brush, make a little put off engine trim. You can do it now or you can skip that step until later. It's totally up to your us. We want use deemed in tremble or in the beginning of the painting. It's nice to have a chair sitting and waiting. It started with, well, to ensure that we're retaining the moisture of our paper, Let's add one more layer of water to it and work it out around so it goes deeper in the fiber. So if your paper, once you happy with it, who start applying our second mixture of paint with diagonal strokes towards the left upper corner of your painting. And then soften the paint over the entire painting with our large brush or any other large soft brush that you have. By my case, how will use the hake brush as it's most comfortable for me and I'll use it throughout the entire background Wash. That will not only create a base layer of core of color for our pinching, but also moisten the paper. Once again. Then at another layer of our second mixture using the same diagonal strokes pointing towards the upper left corner. That will create an illusion of a light coming through there. When you're using your brush from the top towards the middle, make sure that you're always wipe the excess paint from your brush after each brushstroke. So as you can see, I'm wiping the pigment creation some bean and then cleaning my brush straight away on the cotton Iraq, after every single stroke. Once you are feeling a little bit happy about it, you can Dark and the rest of the area around the Whale Shark. Don't worry too much if you paint over it as you can always soften the paint which are hake brush. Just keep applying darker and darker tones to your water and softening them around. Remember to take off the excess amount of pain from the body of your Whale Shark. I'm to do that, just use your damp brush. Make sure to wipe away any excess pigment each time that you have removed it from your paper and try not to add anymore water there as dots me create a cauliflower effect, which may push the pigment, the background away and destroy the smooth flow that we are trying to achieve. After that, you can keep adding more concentrated amount of pigment around your Whale Shark again and again, and don't add any additional moisture. Don't worry too much if you cover any of the fence or the tail with paint as you paint them darker later on. So just concentrate on adding more concentrated pigment and softening the edges on this is the most important part of the first background Wash Once you run out of your first, or rather the second paint mixture, you can start applying the first one, the more concentrated darker mixture. So first, we can apply it to the upper part, basically above our Whale Shark or an below the Whale Shark as well. And keep softening the edges. Just apply first as much paint you would like to keep softening the edges which are hake brush, soft, turn, and then wipe the excess soft and, and wipe the excess is exactly the same movement. All the wafer. Really don't forget to wipe the excess after every single movement. Otherwise, you add some of the darker mixture. On the left corner where we're pretending that we have our live calming through. So we don't really want darker tones on the corner. This is probably the most important part of the entire background Wash. Just keep the upper left corner of painting. One of the lightest part and also keep our oil Shark lighter. I know keep the bottom right corner as well. So we have three sites that will be lighter and a half hour. Gorgeous water in the middle surrounding our Whale Shark. Makes sure that your darker. All the sites around our Whale Shark on you can see how many times we're applying in them soft and an applied and softening the paint. Also super important, yes, if you run out of your paint mixture, exactly like how will now use concentrated pigment with a tiny little bit of water. We don't want to introduce any more water to our painting. Here I'm adding field blur fill of green to create this fixture quiz mixture. It's predominantly bloom, but you can see how thick is the mixture. This doesn't flow in your paper after applying his strokes here in gear smooth background, which are hake brush and always use directional brushstrokes. This way you're keeping the GR of the sun ray speaking for the water. Take your time with this tip. As you can see, only creating this background Wash. It's taken me out on 10 min in total. So almost the entire lesson, we're just creating the diff of our water, softening the edges around. So if I'm taking 10 min, I think that you can take some time to work on your background Wash as well. Just make sure that if you add any extra color, your upper left corner, you take your time to clean it. You can always apply extra paint here and Gary, fulfill that. You need to add some more. You can see how many layers of paint I've added them, how many times I have softening the edges every single time. So I'm softening the edges around the top of the water where the light just coming through around our Whale Shark and also around the bottom, who just want to have a gorgeous smooth force. So I'm gonna recommend union not first step here, I'm intensifying the color even more. And after the last softening, I'm washing my brush very well. Then picking up a little bit of clean water with my medium-size brush and dab in a little bit of the excess water from the tip of my brush on the cotton Iraq, so snot soaking wet. After that, I'm tapping the top of the handle off my brush with my index finger to create some landlords plotters above the Whale Shark. Once you feel that you are at him off splattering, wash your brush very firmly on, you can put it aside. You can soft on some last minute edges. And if your hands are not clean yet, give them a quick wash. Because here comes my favorite part of this painting, who paint with our feet to do that, pick up, though with a short quiz mixture with the tip of your finger and start tapping small dots of paint on the Whale Shark. And try to focus the little circles on the left side of the painting. If you apply them quickly with little pressure, they will appear small and concentrated. If you hold your finger for longer, you create a little wild circles around your dots to look like a tiny halos. But to secure those, they are tried to not overdo them. On this teach. When speaking about the daughters plot or a little goes a long way and you don't want your painting too overworked. The background is just the surrounding of our main subject and it shouldn't take its attention away. We can also act few little splatters hearing here with our small size brush using the same tapping motion. I'm keeping the moisture freaking out. So we're not creating giant cauliflower, but instead of finishing off, so we're creating still some splatters coming out easily from our paintbrush. When you're a fear, happy with your background, layer to dry completely. And you can even use hairdryer to speed up the drying process. And if you're planning to leave the painting to dry overnight, join me in the next lesson for a quick check before you leave it to completely dry 19. Quick Tip: If you're a table or desk gets covered with paint, tried to clean them immediately after painting the field of color, so very staining. And if you don't clean them as soon as possible, it can stay in your desk permanently. I'm using just clean water here from my spray bottle. But you can use sanitizer spray or even alcohol as well. Also clean a little bit of space on a palette for the following mixtures. 20. First Layer of the Whale Shark: In this lesson, we'll paint the base layer of our Whale Shark. So first let's prepare a little puddle of cobalt turquoise light. Then apply an even coat of order to the inside of our Whale Shark, making the sure that we're applying generous amount of water so we can have longer time to paint. If you feel that some parts are drying faster, just add some more water to them. He can't time with this tells us it's super important that we can apply a soft transition in our first Layer of the Whale Shark. Want to make sure that not all the entire body of the Whale Shark will be covered with water, but also all the fields in the tails. Well, I hope you don't mind, but I will speed up this part as we were just starting to always Shark. Feel free to pause here. Then you start applying generous amount of paint over the Whale Shark and don't worry about the chips of the tail and the fence AS will add darker mixture stare. First, we are covering the entire body of the Whale Shark with our cobalt turquoise light. Once you're happy with it, then you can load your brush with a chirp is mixture that we had prepared earlier and start applying it on the bottom part of the head. Also apply some stripes of paint onto the back of the sharp fall in the movement of the spine. Them out. A bit of the same paint mixture to the tail as well. Add some more concentrated pigment on the back of the tail. Here we're working with dry-on-wet and our Shark doesn't have much water left, so we have to be fast. Just add faint hearing. Dare. I have completely cover up the top fans as well as the small bottle of him and chips of the tail with the same mixture. You can also soften some of the edges with Dr. dry brush. But be careful not to introduce any more water tower pinching because that would create cauliflower. Here you can see how I went over the outline. I'm to clean it. I have first started only go with a voir so I can manipulate the paint. Then I'm dabbing the Bill of the brush onto my kitchen room so I can get the excess moisture out of my brush. As I felt that only use in Indian tribe blue, It's quite dark and to be too harsh. So I'm creating a mixture from failure blue, phthalo green in Indian shampoo. Then I'm starting to paint the first dorsal fin that is on top of the Whale Shark with that turquoise dark mixture. And by using exactly the same mixture will cover the dorsal fin on the back. I know also add some horizontal strokes around the top of our Whale Shark. I will keep outlining. Usually Keep in mind that the top part of our Whale Shark is darker than the bottom part. But just feel free to manipulate it as you wish. Just have FUN and don't stress too much about the rules because Syngenta of the day, it's our own painting. So if you would like to follow the rules, you can totally do that. But I'm just following my black and white reference photo and also I'm following my intuition. So in this case, I'll have a darker part on the bottom part of the body of the Whale Shark. And I'll have a light apart on top because that part, it will be sunlit because the rays of sunlight are peeking through the water. So They're also creating the illusion that still be one upper part of the body of our Whale Shark dotted groups justi, a little bit lighter. By using exactly the same mixture, we are adding some more definition, the pelvic fin, and we're dragging the color backwards to the tail, as you can see in our join with other half an hour failover Whale Shark, because perhaps it's hidden as the Shark is sitting on a site. So you don't really have to have all the parts of your Whale Shark as long because you can see them on the reference photo, you can include them otherwise, dots mean the spine is twisted a little bit. It's on the site. So don't worry about it. Follow your reference photo. I'm totally enjoy the painting process and have FUN without worrying about any fan. When applying this darker mixture, focus on adding the paint to the tips of the fence and the tail so you can make them more dramatic appearance on the Whale Shark. And don't worry about the lighter areas thought-out are visible now our Whale Shark, because most probably they're not visible from the bird's-eye view that we are looking at our Whale Shark in our painting. Now, once we're happy with the chirp race mixture, we can apply a little bit the filled-in train, the large butter fan, also called picture of him. After that, we can apply it the rest of the fence and the tail by focusing on the chips of them. So we can keep that dramatic appearance dot Wu was creation with the dark turquoise mixture. Make sure that you are using both the chip of the brush for finer details and to the edges of your painting. In the belly of the brush where you would like to add some more paint. Just try to make a harmonious movement between the chip and the belly of the brush. And this way you are practicing using the entirety of your brush that will really help you with achieving better results in the future. Not only in that exact. As creation smooth transitions between the chip and the belly of your paint can not only make it easier but faster to paint as well. And you'll gain a lot more control over your brush. Here as you can see, I'm just softening a little bit of the paint that I added and it was looking really, really streaky. And you can also add a little bit of the cobalt turquoise light and mixing it back with the dark turquoise mixture that we had on the budget of our Whale Shark. Also, if you want a softer some edges, you can use a clean damp brush. Just try not to introduce any additional water. So every single time when you clean your brush, always make sure that you dab it on your cotton cloth. And once you're happy with all the areas that are covered, you can create small splatters with water over the Whale Shark that will create the illusion of the dots that appear over their bodies as the water will push away the dark pigment. You can also cover the surface around the Whale Shark with kitchen roll and create splatters with cobalt turquoise light that will create even more interest in your painting and create the illusion of even more and more dots around the Whale Shark. I know you're happier which are splattering. Just dry your painting very well. And meet me in the next lesson where we'll start creating the pattern over the Whale Shark 21. Enhance the Darks: In this lesson, observed pattern on our Whale Shark and enhance some of the Darks if we will observe the pattern on this Whale Shark that I have painted earlier, you can see how I had to painted each of the dots by pinching filled circles around it. This technique can be really, really beautiful to die of the viewer, but it's also very time-consuming. So how can we create the illusion of thousands of small dots but without leaving the liver as life. Or with other words said, without painting all the tiny little circles one-by-one. Before we do that. Before you explore the different ways, let's enhance the darker parts where it's needed. So to do that, let's just paint darker paint or show and then soften the edges. We can repeat that for every single part that we need to enhance. And we can use either the turquoise color mixture or we can mix it even when even true blue, just to make even more popping into bring a little bit more contrast with the background. So we have a lighter background and we have our Whale Shark darker. So that's bringing all of the tension for the viewer to our foreground. Super important for me. It's once again to just keep Walmart on your exact painting. In my case, I need this enhancement in the front part of the Whale Shark. Where is the hit? To create a little bit more contrast in here on the back of the Whale Shark or on the upper part. Basically I'm enhancing even more. I didn't some more darker values and softening the edges once again. But just keep warm eye on what's happening in your painting. That's the first thing that you have to do. One of the rules that it took me quite some time to learn. In fact, in my painting practice. And I think it's one of the most important one. You can see that here I'm adding even more Darks on the second dorsal fin. That's the back dorsal fin. And just keep softening the edges, which a large soft brush. And just to be more precise, That's why I'm applying the darker values of the things with my small round brush. Meet me in the next lesson to have firm in create the actual pattern on our Whale Shark 22. Painting the Body Pattern: In this lesson, you'll learn how to create the pattern our Whale Shark first we'll create few wealth of cobalt turquoise light. And another one with turquoise color from cobalt with fatal blue and green. So create the same mixture that who was using earlier. But will also have a fairly good puddle where if cobalt turquoise light and also mix some of our turquoise mixture with the Indian trim. And once you're happy, let your mixture suicides and we can start painting our first wave. So you can choose for yourself which way do you prefer to use in your own painting? I would highly suggest you to try both, or at least to observe first, to see how both of the waste work. Then try it on your own as some people like repetitive actions and they would definitely enjoy this first wave to learn how to paint in our first way, Let's take one of the mixtures and start making tiny circles which are small round brush. Whilst painting load your brush from the different wells so you can defer the colors that will create a lot more interest in your painting. And tried to change the sizes and the shapes. But I highly recommend you just to keep cohesiveness. Create few tiny little dots with one of the mixtures. And who else you have built tiny little pattern, then you can position into another column. Just pick up this one that is sneaks trade. We have a flat palette. That's mean that all the mixtures around it are touching each other. So if you get some of the paint that is next to the other one, that means the mixture, it will be, for example, a little bit lighter or juice a little bit darker. So we can create a cute little pattern here and there are varying the size of the circles of pores would bring a lot more interests for the viewer. But I think that it's even more important to vary the colors from time-to-time. Don't forget that you can also lighten some of the mixtures by adding tiny little dots of water to it. Just don't dilute it way too much. Or we're all worried, half some layers of paint created there. And obviously, watercolor is transparent medium. So if you add a transparent layer, it may even not be visible depending on the layer below it. So here you can see I'm getting closer to the H or did basically to the age of the head a firewall Shark, because it's a little bit darker there. We got some dark colors. For the same reason. I'll use darker, truer Chris mixture that will pop out at tiny little bit of Indian tree blue. And that will Art to the painting as well. To make our painting even more interesting, we can add a little bit of pink red to create a sheet that looks even closer to purple. And that will bring a little bit of warmth to our painting and make it even more interesting. You can use, like in my case, I'm using carmine, but you can use any pink that you would like. You can, for example, you owe para or a cleaner aid or any pink rate that you would like, just make sure to keep warm. I am how strong kissed the color. So in my case, the car mine is not a very, very strong color. So I can like, I swore up quite a lot my paintbrush in the paint and I attend national making the mixture very pink is just lightly tinted. And also, I think it's quite important not to cover a lot of colors and variations in the area around the eye of our Whale Shark. Us, we still want to keep the interest in that part on the eye itself. You can continue like that for hours and hours to come if you'd like to end up to become a very detailed painting in, it will be quite interesting because well, on another hand, you may decide to also Try a little bit of sponging as well. The fuel of the sponge painting is so different part of painting small circles and it killed the super fan to use as well. If you decide to use the sponging technique, prepare yourself a little puddle of paint that you would like to use on your own painting. You can also test them on separate piece of paper to ensure that you are happy with the consistency of the fields. I'm the marks that your sponge concrete on the paper. It's quite important here to remember not to press your sponge to heart. I did can create undesirable effects looking like a box of color. Instead, the pure sponge in paint just a little by little and keep building It's gorgeous pattern for your light can. Keep observing your painting and seeing what is missing. In my case, I feel that my painting because Luckin, the circle shapes, so I will add some more of them. Would get even better in your painting. Do need some more so-called, feel free to watch them, or do you need to vary the colors? Just do that. I'll leave him out to enjoy the music and paint your heart out. As we're building the hittin the Body of our Whale Shark. Let's just add the I that was visible on our reference photo as well. If you can see anymore your pencil marks, you can always take back your pencil sketch and follow the guidance to position that I the correct place and painted in your dark blue color. In our case, I'll use an engine trim blue. So that will make it pop a little bit more. Before we continue, make sure that your paper is completely dry. 23. Define the Whale Shark: In this lesson, we'll create the gill slits. They are a series of openings between the gill arches. So a fish through which water passes or otherwise said, these are the vertical lines on the site of the head uphill, the fishes and the sharks with breathing. So to start painting the gill slits on our Whale Shark, let's create first a little puddle of creamy, milky consistency of Indian trimmed blue or whichever dark, warm food value half years throughout the painting. I'm just picking up a little bit of water from your quiz mixture to make more workable consistency. But you can also use a little drop of water to make it workable for you. If your left hand, can you prefer the other way around which we just watched this part and paint after that. Otherwise, let's painting from left to right. We will first apply a straight line of color following our pencil sketch, and then soften the edge on the right-hand side of each gift. Let we will also paint the line below them and soft and its bottom part. There isn't usually a line below the gifts of the shocks, but in our case we have it. So for our exact Whale Shark, we have happened. That mean I would like to include it so we can paint it. Then you can continue to paint each individual gill slits and soften the edges exactly on the same way. Usually all the gill slits over Whale Shark or any other fish are the same size. But in our case, our Whale Shark is in perspective. So the gill slits are in perspective as well. So those one on the left side will appear a little bit longer of compare two, there's one on the right-hand side. When you're painting each individual gas, let just take your time. You can apply the paint which are smaller, round brush and soften the edges which are larger or medium-size brush. You can see that us further I go DOB becomes smaller and you can even make him make them look a lighter just because they will usually appear tiny little bit lighter. Following the idea of perspective, I'll ask totally not me, sorry. The rest of the body of the Shark is dark as well. So just follow your gut. I'm feel, what feels right for you. I think is quite important here to mention that the Whale sharks usually have only five large gill slits. On the first gill slit, All the spiral, which C is for breathing. When the Whale sharks are resting on sea floor, they are also usually directly located after the Shark sigh. But in our case we have five large ones. So I'm to tiny, little bit smaller. So in total we have seven gill slits. Don't ask me why that's what I was seeing on that reference photo. If you would like to be more accurate, just focus create on the five until we perfectly fine. But if you just want to have FUN and follow the tutorial as I was painting it. You can always make sense. I don't think that Everyone we're looking at your painting will recognize how many exactly gill slits the shock will have. I think it will be more like enjoying that your audience, even the tiniest little intricate details and that will really be forgotten. Also feel free to enhance any dark parts that you would like and you feel that they need to be enhanced. Don't forget to soft them. All of their edges. Have FUN. And I'll see you in the next lesson where we'll create some subtle highlights. 24. Add Highlights (Final Details): In this lesson, we'll create some subtle highlights door painting. And for that we will use tiny little bit of whitewash with a teeny tiny little bit of water. As we discussed in our previous class project, just make sure that you are not audience Week much water Wash. Otherwise it will lose its opacity, which is basically towards making it. And that will bring the highlights to our paintings. So to do that, for a little bit of whitewash to the outer side of the tail of our Whale Shark and then soft and digest. So in other words, we won't be painting the tail of the Shark, but just surrounded. The highlights of the white will contrast with the dark tale and it will bring some more interested. We can also do the same around our bottle filled. And if you decide to soft on the opposite side. Over the ages of the pictorial fin, we can suggest that the lightest reflection on the fin, and it's making it to appear like it's glowing. So think about the different ways on what exactly you would like to concentrate on, will do like to add the white goulash around the films? Or would you like to add it to the fields itself and make them looking globally? There are two different things. You can, each either methods and that would really make your painting more interesting. All you can, of course, paint on both ways exactly as I was doing. So I added the white goulash on the outer side of the tail or in the pelvic fin. And I'm adding it on the inner side of the pectoral fin. The boat on large fin on the front close the head. When I was out in the wash. I soft on on the inner part in exactly the same way. I'm adding the goulash on top of the Whale Shark and that will make it look like it's glowing. So the sun is at afflict him over the Whale Shark and is making it pop. I'm that could bring a lot more interest to our painting. In the same time, the light that was below the fence, I'm the CIO can make it pop as well. So in this part we're enhancing the highlights and the Darks of our painting. My case, I'm enhancing the highlights. We feel that you need some Darks I've done here. This is your last moment. And you can always add a little subtle highlights to the head of the Whale Shark, exactly like I'm Adam here in the front. You can either soft on the inner or outer sides. Now you know the reasons behind it. And when you feel happy with it, you can use the leftover dark blue paints or any color of your choice to sign your finished painting. Just load your brush whale without making any group in a forth and take your time with this tape. Don't have to rush this step. Just take your time. Load your brush, which are favorite color from the painting or any article that you fancy. And for me, this is one of my favorite steps because even though the painting, of course, it's super personal, painted on your own. Even though you following tutorial, the moment you have us your own supplies, you have your, your own hands. And it is truly yours. It's your creation. So I didn't your signature, your own signature, creating your mark and putting your name or little symbol representing knew exactly as I'm doing is just showing the word exactly. You have created this painting. And I absolutely love that step. I think it's super-important for every artist to do it. And be super proud of yourself. Once you're happy with it, then you can take your time and then remove the masking tape and do that at an angle from the painting so we can reveal our beautiful white border came true painting. There's gorgeous projects with me and I'll see you in the next lesson for our final thoughts. And don't forget to check the project in resources section of the class where you can find even more reference pictures. So you can paint on your own 25. Thank You: Congratulations on completing the class. I hope that you're happy with journey artworks. I know that Underwater scenarios are quite challenging, but they are all really worth the effort. Stepping outside the comfort zone can help us to gain more confidence in our own skills and enhance the results. Are paintings. Give yourself some credit for completing the class. You absolutely deserve it. And once you read it, don't forget to snap a photo. I look Florida to the Projects and Resources section of the class. I'm super excited to see your results. If you decide to share yours results when Instagram don't forget to tag me at Alice underscore Art. And I will do more than happy to share your results are my stories. If you have any further questions, don't forget to ask me in the discussion sections class, I would be happy to help you if you need any further guidance. I'm absolutely there for you until next time. Happy painting