Crashing Wave - Learn the A-La-Prima Method in Watercolor or Wet-on-Wet | Ralitsa Arnaudova | Skillshare

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Crashing Wave - Learn the A-La-Prima Method in Watercolor or Wet-on-Wet

teacher avatar Ralitsa Arnaudova, Watercolour Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro to Crashing Wave

      1:35

    • 2.

      Materials

      2:47

    • 3.

      Painting the Wave

      23:15

    • 4.

      Painting the Island

      10:26

    • 5.

      Thank you for joining + a Bonus

      1:01

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About This Class

Have you ever wanted to capture the drama of a crashing wave, but weren’t sure how to achieve those soft transitions, vibrant colours, and delicate sea foam?

In this class, I’ll show you how to paint a beautiful crashing wave in watercolor using the a-la-prima method, or otherwise known as painting in one go painting wet on wet and adding darker and more dense paint with each following layer. Together, we’ll explore how to work on well-prepared wet paper, building your wave from transparent, light washes into richer layers of depth and vibrancy, all while keeping your painting fresh and alive.

You’ll learn step by step how to:

  • Use the a-la-prima method to paint confidently in one sitting

  • Keep your colours luminous while slowly building depth and contrast

  • Create soft, seamless transitions without harsh edges

  • Add movement and life with sea foam splatters in 2 different ways

  • Smooth out and refine details for a natural, realistic finish

  • Organise your workflow to paint the entire piece in a timely, flowing way

Hi, I’m Ralitsa Arnaudova, a watercolor artist, teacher, psychologist, and mom of two little ones. I paint expressive, vibrant seascapes, landscapes, and wildlife animals, and I’m passionate about helping you discover the joy of watercolor. My goal is to provide you with easy and effective techniques that boost your confidence, whether you’re a complete beginner or a more experienced artist.

By the end of this class, you’ll not only have painted a stunning crashing wave, but you’ll also understand how to control watercolor with the a-la-prima method and unlock new possibilities in your art.

So if you are ready, just grab your paint supplies and let’s dive into the beauty of the ocean together.

Meet Your Teacher

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Ralitsa Arnaudova

Watercolour Artist

Teacher
Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Intro to Crashing Wave: Have you ever wanted to learn how to paint crashing waves, but was unsure how to create soft transitions, smoothly blending colors and beautiful sea foam. In this class, I will show you how to paint beautiful crashing waves using the wet and wet technique in watercolor. To achieve that, I'll teach you how to use the la prima method all painting in one go. I'll show you how to learn to control watercolor using this method, and how to unlock endless possibilities before you. Hi. I'm Tornodva and I'm a watercolor artist, art teacher, and mom of two gorgeous kids wonderful. I love painting vibrant and expressive seascapes, landscapes, and wildlife animals. I'm super passionate to teach you how to do that in easy and effective ways. I love sharing with you all my tips, techniques, and secrets so you can learn watercolor in easy and fun way. In this class, I'll walk you through the entire process from start to finish. We'll explore all the materials do using this class and I'll guide you step by step into every decision that I make and why I do it. We'll learn how to create soft blends, how to create contrast with subtle changes of color, and even how to mix your paints to create cohesive looking paintings. I'm super excited to show you how to learn all of that using the easy and beautiful la prima method. Are you ready to learn with me, then gather your paint supplies and let's just jump right in. 2. Materials: This lesson, we'll use a quarter imperial sheet for coal paper or approximately a free. But if you want to use a smaller size, that will be perfectly fine. My personal paper of choice is under sweater for 300 GSM or 140 pound code press W coal papa. But if you don't have it, you can use any professional grade papers such as Arch, honey Mueller, Bohn, C Windsor and Newton. I would recommend any I'll use my standard plastic wood color palette, and you can see all the colors on my palette here or check them in the resources section of the class. I'll use one hake brush, two round calligraphy brushes, but any medium sized round brushes will do the job. I will also use a smaller synthetic brush to paint the tiny shadows on the waves and the distant island. We would also need two jars of water, one to rinse off your brushes, and one to pick up the fresh water. I'll use one towel and some kind of kitchen roll. Plastic boat, but any non absorbent surface will do the job. And last but not least a Muslim square or any cotton towel that doesn't hold a lot of dust. We'll use it to remove all the excess, water and air bubbles from our paper before we start to paint. Before we start painting, we have to wet thoroughly our paper on both sides. If you use a brush, use the biggest brush that you have and drench your paper very well. I'll usually wet my paper before painting for about five to 10 minutes. That ensures that the fibers of our paper are fully saturated with water and we can paint for a very long period of time before our paper dries because we'll paint this entire painting using the la prima method, or it's also otherwise called painting in one go. If you have a bathtub and don't want to spend those 10 minutes wetting the paper, you can submerge it there for 10 minutes, and it would be good to turn your paper halfway through so we can ensure that is saturated with water on both sides. Once your paper is proper wet, we can place it on our plastic sheet and remove all of the excess water and bubbles from our paper by pressing on it from the middle towards the sides. We'll take our time and press well over your towel in all directions. If you see that your towel is wrinkling, just pull it gently on the sides and continue pressing to remove all the water from your paper. 3. Painting the Wave: Once you're happy, we'll start creating two small pools of paint, one with Viridian green or any of your paints that will show pigment green seven or PG seven. The second puddle will be with lemon yellow or any cool yellow of your choice. We'll start by adding a very yellowy green mixture on our paper. The mixture will have a lot of water and will have predominantly yellow color. With curvy brush strokes, we'll start applying our mix to the left side of our paper exactly as I do. Then wash your brush and add clean water on the areas around the curve of our wave so we can keep some soft edges on the upper side of the wave. This is where we have the top of our wave and the splash or the little foam bubbles that will form from the splashing of our gigantic crushing wave. So we want to make sure that we keep that area nice and soft. Then we'll add some of the viridian mixed with a little bit of fallow blue and start adding it here and there as shown. You can vary the intensity of the color and the amount of it. So we have it a little bit more darker or light in the different places. After that, wash your brush gently without removing all of the color and add a diluted mixture back on your painting. Here we want more soft edges and light color values. So we are adding more color with a large brush, and we can continue to add more yellow blue. While continuing to cover the bottom parts, make sure to keep a few gaps of white paper shown in your paintings. That will create more interest. We can also use our largest brush and smooch a little bit of the color by using just clean water. This will prolong the wave. You can see that where I have pulled the color, lighten it up. But we are still continuing the form of the wave. So we have a peak on top, and then we have elongated part on the bottom. Here, you can see that I'm adding a little bit more paint to my brush and adding more intensity on some places and leaving some of the gaps still visible and some of the places a little bit lighter, which will bring a lot more interest to our painting. Just keep switching between the two brushes. One that will be saturated with more color. This was pale blue, and the other one is our big hate brush, which is saturated just with water and nothing else. If you need to lighten up the color, you can use the hate brush to lift up a little bit. Of the color, just make sure that it's nice and damp and not saturated with lots and lots of water. Otherwise, it can push the pigment backwards. And here you can see I'm using my soft damp brush, and I'm just softening some of the edges. I adding a little bit of tiny little bit of the water to the white of the paper, and that's keeping it nice and moist and ensuring that we won't create hard edges. After that, we'll add a little bit more diluted paint mixture on top of our wave. And to do that, just add more water and add it on a few places on top of the wave and on the side where the foam will appear from the crash of the wave. Now you can see I'm washing my brush and I'm not removing all the color from my brush. There is just tiny little bit of color, which I wet in the in the heart of the wave were exactly crushing, which will add a little bit of color to the place where the waves crashing, where all the foam is forming, and that will create a little bit more interest. After that, we'll add more pigment to our mixture and make sure that you have more blue and green, and that will create deeper turquoise color because our mixture contain less water and more pigment that will automatically make the pigments stay closer to the place where we paint them without spreading further away. If there are some places where you want to bring more light and color, you can add a little bit more yellow and more water to keep them lighter. Or if you want your pigment to appear darker and more saturated, you can add the complimentary color of our turquoise, which in our case is orange, and preferably, you can use cadmium orange. I'm not using it because I want to keep the vibrancy of the wave. So I'm just using Viridian green and I'm adding gentle brush strokes one next to the other. To create this beautiful effect, we're just using our brush and adding tiny little lines. So these strokes are super thin, short and intense here and there. And don't forget you can always change a little bit of color if you're fancy. We have a lot of time to work on our painting because we water it down, so you don't have to rush at all. Now I want my brush to hold a lot more water, so I switch to my soft white coat brush, and I can even soften some of the edges with it. Once we are happy softening the edges, I want to show you one of my favorite techniques for which one we need a soft damp hair brush. We'll be just dabbing the bristles of our brush perpendicularly on the paper. That splits the bristles onto clumps of hair and creates great effect. Like you're creating hundreds of soft sass platters on your wave, but a lot more controlled and fun. You can place them below the tip or the crest of your wave and around it and create the effect of sea foam forming in the air. It should look white and frothy, but also want to introduce a little bit of color so we can create a little bit more interest. When you load a little bit of color on your hack brush, don't load your brush on the normal way. Instead, just dap your brush into the paint the same way as your painting with it. Once you have created a good amount of seafm, grab your medium size brush and you can add more darker and thicker turquoise line, subjecting the movement of the water. We can also add a little bit of Identrin blue to deepen the color and make the lines more pronounced. You can paint with short and quick brush strokes which will make it more inviting and more interesting to the viewer. Once you're happy with it, you can just switch to our hack brush and once again, add a little bit of water on the background where our paper is still white. And now we want to paint the water in the distance going towards our imaginary horizon line and where we place our island. I have also applied a little bit of clean water to the sky area to keep it also moist. And when I do that, I always remove the excess water from my brush and keep it just damp. And this way I won't push the pigment that we already have applied away. Here we use our medium size brush, and you can soften some of the darker strokes. Just spread the paint gently and dap a little bit of the water into it without leaving hard lines that will ensure that you have more time to focus on painting the sea. Just make sure that when you're taking a pigment, always you don't introduce any extra water to your brush. You just use dry pigment or mostly dry, and you can always remove the excess water on your paper tissue. This way, we are using the water on our paper, and the pigment on our brush is nice and dry. It is still nice and soft because of all the water that we have on our paper, we still have a lot of time to work on it, but we can ensure that Um, we can just use dry pigment and add all the interests. Here I'm just adding a little bit more water to the upper part of the painting, so I keep the sky moist and grabbing dry pigment with my brush. As you can see, there is just dining little bit of water. And a tiny short lines with it. If you feel that your pigment is not strong enough, you can always reload with more pale blue and pale green and make your pigment a little bit thicker on your palette. And you can always also use your soft dumb brush. As shown here, I'm using just the gold brush, and I'm just softening the tip of the wave. I'm not introducing any more water here. I'm just using soft dam brush and just softening the pigment. So we're dispersing the pigment without disturbing it or pushing it backwards. Now, I just grab a little bit more of the turquoise mixture and I'm defining the wave a little bit because we have all the water there. It will keep the edge nice and soft, but it will be a little bit more defined. Here you can see a Mentin a little bit, a French tamarin, and we'll add that mixture to the sky and adding even more ultramarine and that contrast of warmer pigment to the top of our painting compared to the color blues. In the wave will create a very lovely contrast in the painting, and it will keep a little bit more interest. Once you add the pigment, don't forget to use your soft gold brush or any soft brush that you have available and keep the line where the sky meets the wave nice and soft. Here I'm adding even more French chamarin to the sky. And I'm ensuring that the contrast is even more pronounced. And once again, I'm taking the soft hair brush and softening the edges nice and gentler. There is one more thing that I'm not showing, but I want to mention if you have some excess paint or water around your pinching between the pinching and the plastic sheet, you can grab a little bit of paper tissue and wipe it around so it won't come back to your painting and push the pigment away. And if you have such a hair falling down from your brush, as you can see, you can move it gentler with your brush and soften up the pigment once again with your brush. Our paper is really saturated with water, so we can move the pigment around easily and we can also soften some edges. We can blend the colors gently, as shown earlier. And here I'm grabbing my hig brush once again using just damp brush, and I'm positioning it perpendicularly to our paper and just dabbing gently on top of the paper. When you're using this technique, make sure that your brush is damp instead of moist. I always keep the bristles split into clumps. So the hairs are creating just gently dots instead of making lines. At this stage of our painting, we have established the base. So I'm just loading up my brush with dry pigment, and I'll start forming the C itself. To do that, make sure that you have loaded your brush with dry pigment and move it from the bottom of the page towards the horizon line. So we want to have the most saturated pigment towards us and the lighter pigment going towards the horizon line, which is creating the sense of depth If you feel that your se doesn't have enough pigment, you can always add a little bit more just to make it a little bit more pronounced, more visible, and you are not keeping your paintings Ora light. So by adding a little bit more pigment and softening goes, we can ensure that our seascape look cohesive enough. Once you're happy with establishing the way how the seas skip and the wave look together, you can grab a thin round synthetic brush, which hold by the shape, and it holds a lot less water. We'll load it with fellow glue and fallow green, creating a beautiful fellow aquois colour. I need to ensure that our lines are a lot thicker. You can see that I'm not adding any water, so I'm ensuring that the pigment is nice and creamy and doesn't hold a lot of water. The only water that I have on my brush is the water from loading it before adding all of the pigments. O. And then we can start creating small lines following the shape of the wave. Don't worry too much if you drop your brush at this stage because our brush is not loaded with too much pigment, and we can always soften it with our soft had brush if we have to. But otherwise, because we are creating the deeper colors in our painting at the moment, everything should stay in one place and the pigment won't be disturbed. If you want to create a bigger sense of depth, you can try to keep the lines closer towards you, a little bit bigger and the lines are closer to the horizon, a little bit smaller. But at this stage, everything it's about having fun. Here we are at the very last stage, so you can add a little bit more yellow if you want to warm up the color a little bit. And if you want to create deeper color, you can always add a little bit of cadmium orange would make it a little bit less vibrant and more natural looking. To keep the interest of the viewer, you can always add a little bit of French tamarin to warm up the color as well. And you can defer to have more blue or more green into your color. When you're going up towards the crest of the wave, make sure that you're keeping it a lot lighter. You can do the pigment a little bit. And if you are doing so, just add a little bit of water, and we won't put our brush directly onto our painting. We still don't want to introduce any more water so to do that, we can just take off the excess water on a paper towel or on your cotton rack, make sure that you remove the excess water, and then you can paint with your brush on your painting. So once you are going up towards the top of the wave or the crest of the wave, you want to make sure that, yes, we have a little bit of depth, that is made of the shadow. But these small lines they will get lighter and lighter because this is where all the air is coming up, and we want to make sure that we leave space for breathing. Regardless of what part of the wave you're painting, if you feel that you have way too much pigment here and there, you can always clean the pigment and pick it up with your damp brush. Just make sure that you're keeping it nice and dry. It doesn't have much water at all. And you can always remove all the excess water on your cotton rack. And if you feel that you have introduced some more water, you can use your fan brush to fan out that and you can add extra pigment afterwards. Just make sure that you are not introducing more water because that can ruin the painting at this stage. There are some spaces on your paper that already drying. Here you can see that I'm just adding a little bit of light pigment. So I added more water. I remove the excess water on my paper tissue, and now with a slight pigment, I'm just adding super light and short waves because they are getting towards the horizon. The closer we are to the horizon, the waves will be shorter and smaller. Mm. 4. Painting the Island: Once you're happy with the way how your wave and the sea look like, we can just go and grab some apples yo and start painting the distant island on our painting. My naples yellow is by Windsor Newton and pigment white six and pigment brown 24. And I'll use just super fin consistency of paint. So I'll start with adding a little bit of naples yellow and a little bit of water. And if you feel that your consistency is very water, you can take off a little bit of the excess water on a paper towel. And start drawing the line of your distant island. You don't have to fill up all the gaps inside because we'll add some extra colors there to add a little bit more interest. But we just want to establish the base of our island with the naples yellow. If you don't have any naples yellow available, you can use some raw sienna or raw amber. You can use yellow oka or any warm yellow of your choice. Here you can see that I'm not super happy with the way how my island look like because my line is not straight as I never put a pencil sketch in advance, and you can totally do that. You can always at your pencil sketch in advance. Or you can even use urula as I'm showing you here, make sure that you are not pressing the ruler on the paper, and you are not creating any marks or crevices on your painting. By doing so, because they will be visible and it won't look nice, too. It will be very, very prominent if you have any crevices at this stage of your painting. Here you can see I'm adding just tiny little bit of naples yellow, and I'm starting to add more and more burnt sienna into my mixture, starting with tiny little bit of burnt sienna in the beginning and adding more and more as I go further and further into painting the island. Here, that right side of the island, that is a little bit higher. I've painted mainly with burnseno and I'm softening the end of the island with my soft coat brush. Now, I will lift the pigment on the island to settle a little bit, and I'll use my soft calligraphy brush on the same way as I was using the cage brush. So I will split the bristles into clusters of hair and use the same dry dabbing technique. As we always using with a hake brush, and I'll just dab a little bit of pigment here and there. Here I'm making sure that my pigment is not very deep. I have a lot of water, and I can take all the excess water onto paper towel or on my cotton rack. And you can also soften a little bit of the color pick up a little bit of the extra color with your fan brush, and that will make sure that the foam is not deeply colored because essentially, we are just painting the shadows of the drops. Now the light brown pigment on our island have settled, so I grab a little bit of ultramarine and add it to the ban sienna, so I can create deep brown by using exactly the same colors. So I'm just adding tiny little bit of French ramareno the Bnciena. Make sure that it's dark brown instead of dark blue. So it's leaning a lot more towards the brown, and that will create the nicest contrast in our painting because there will be an extra color that is on the island instead of all the blues that are in our painting. Here, you can use your smallest brush to add the pigment and the soft coat brush or whatever soft brush you have available, just to soften the edges around the island because we want to make sure it looks very nice and air is far away in the distance. As you can see that I have added a little bit extra water with my brush, which was not intended, so I'm using my fan brush, and I'm just fan out that extra water. You can add a little bit more pigment to the front of the back. Just focus on your own painting and keep one eye on what's going on on your paper and on your palette instead of focusing entirely on my painting. If you feel that you need to add a little bit more color to your eel oned or a little bit more color to the wave, you can still go back and forth. Whilst you still have a little bit of sheen on your painting, you can continue adding dry pigment to it. But you just have to make sure that you're not introducing any more water because that will create a cauliflower effect. And we are almost ready with our painting, so we definitely don't want any cauliflower effects to our painting anymore. Here I'm just adding tiny little bit of super light blue. Below the island, you don't have to. If you feel that your painting looks good at this stage, you can just let it dry. And that's it. You don't have to touch anymore. I just feel that my painting is lacking a little bit of colodm, so I'll add tiny little bit of bloom, but you can see it's just super transparent. And even though I'm always wiping my brush on paper towel and ensuring that it's super soft and light and I'm not introducing more water just to be completely sure I'm using my fan brush, and I'm gliding it gently on top of the paper. And this is ensuring that I will remove I will pick up rather any excess moisture that is on my paper with the soft fan brush which is completely dry. Here, I'm just adding some splatters. I just loaded my small synthetic brush with a little bit of water. I'm just plattering clean water onto my painting, and it's just the area where I have the foam formed on the painting. Here I'm also adding tiny little bit of color on the same dryway. My resources are split into clusters of hair again. So I'm not making uniform shapes and it's completely randomly putting the color on the foam. Mmm. And once you're happy with your painting, you can take your hair dryer and dry your painting completely. You can settle the pigment on the top of your painting by starting to dry your painting with the hair dry directly as it's sitting on the plastic board. And once it starts drying, at least the top layer of your painting, you can take it out of your plastic sheet and you can fairly dry it on both sides. It will start bending a little bit. That's perfectly fine. Don't worry about it. Once it's completely dry, you can spray the back of your painting and put it under a stack of books, and it will be perfectly flat once it's dry. 5. Thank you for joining + a Bonus: So much for joining me to this class. I hope that you enjoy exploring la prima method and learning how to paint in one go. I cannot wait to see what you have created into this class. Don't forget to share your painting in the project section of this class. And if you are sharing it online, please don't forget to tag me a Reals underscore art. By sharing your paintings in the project section of this class, you are giving yourself a chance to receive a personalized feedback on your painting and get featured on my Instagram account. By doing that, you are also helping a fellow artist that may feel unsecure in their abilities and show them that everything is possible. Please consider leaving me a review. This helps me to learn what you did like in today's class, and how can I make the future classes even better for you? I can't wait to see your beautiful paintings. Have a wonderful day and happy painting.