The Portsmith Tote - Beginner Sewing Waxed Canvas & Leather Tote

1. Portsmith Tote Trailer: Hey, I'm Ellie, and I'm going to teach you how to make a bag. This bag. I use the Portsmith tote for an everyday bag. I throw my books in it, my groceries in it, and I even throw my seven pound wonder dog into it. I designed the Portsmith tote to be the perfect beginner bag project. I really love to see people build skills in a confident way, even if you don't know how to saw, you can make this bag. You're going to love this bag because it has some really cool features like sturdy leather straps, real metal hardware, and a reinforced base that you can throw anything in. This bag could be yours. Let's make it. 2. Meet the Portsmith: Hi, I'm Ellie and welcome to the online class for the Portsmith Tote. I designed the Portsmith Tote to be the perfect beginner bag. In this project, you're going to learn how to set rebuts. You're also going to learn how to do a arm and finish seems. My favorite feature of the Portsmith is you're going to learn how to do an envelope full box corner, and handle heavyweight fabric on a home sewing machine. The Portsmith Tote project is a really great beginner bag project. But if you've never touched your sewing machines, we have some really great supportive videos that will help walk you through how to thread your machine and get you making bags. The Portsmith Tote is a work course of a bag. You can take the bag anywhere. It's just a dream bag for everyday life. This bag is built with really classic materials and they're just going to stand the test of time. All right, I think we're good to go. Let's go make the Portsmith. 3. Gather Your Materials: The Portsmith is designed to be a heavy-duty bags. We want to use sturdy materials for this project. We have here a wax canvas and we suggest a mid to heavyweight canvas. If you're not making with a kit, you're going to want to make sure to pick up three quarters of a yard of the main body fabric. We recommend a mid to heavy canvas, wax canvas, or denim. We also have the base fabric here. If you're not making from a kit, you're going to want to make sure you pick up at least 5, 8, 7 yard for the base fabric. You'll need to leather straps that are 5-8 ounce leather, three quarters of an inch wide by 28 inches long. You'll need one three-quarter inch steering, eight leather washers to reinforce your leather strap attachment points. Eight double cap rivets. For the double cap rivets size, you'll need small or medium double cap rivets depending on the thickness of the fabric and the leather that you make your bandwidth. Of course, you'll need coordinating thread which is available on our supply site. You could source all your own materials or you can get a Portsmith Tote filmmaker kit off our site which contains all the fabric, leather, and hardware you need to make your bag including the instruction booklet. All the fabrics in our full maker kits come precut, notched, marked, and ready to sew. In our kits, you'll find leather available in three colors, black, brown, and tan, and you'll also get your choice of three colors for our metal hardware. Bright brass, antique brass, and black. If you want to use your own fabric, we suggest getting a Portsmith leather and hardware kit, which comes with all the leather and hardware to make your bag. Our kits come with nine rivets, which is one extra. In case you mess one up, you'll have one to use. It also comes with this cute klum house. I made this label, so you can put your bragging rights in your bag. 4. Grab Your Tools: Let's go over all the tools in sewing supplies that you're going to need to make your tote. Starting with what you'll need for cutting. We have a cutting mat here and we have different types of cutting tools, trustee scissors and a rotary cutter that's used in conjunction with the cutting mat. We also have a 24 inch by six inch quilting ruler, craft clips which are great for holding thick fabric in place especially spots where pins won't go through. This is my favorite bag making presser foot. It's an edge stitch presser foot. It really helps you sew straight lines when you're doing hems and when you're doing top stitches. Thread snips are always at my machine side. I like to sew with chrome jeans needle size 100 for the wax canvas that come in our kits and of course we always need a seam ripper even though we wish we didn't. We have our clover chaco liner pen and then these are my favorite pencils to use, clover chaco pale pencils. They're really nice. The line that they make is thin enough that it doesn't add too much weight to your measurements but it's thick enough that you could see it on heavier weight fabric. Straight pins with a magnetic pin dish, I like to use a circle which organizes the pins flat and it's safer to use them that way. This is a steel fabric roller. It's really nice for pressing wax canvas because you can't iron your wax canvas or it'll ruin your iron and it melts the wax so we use steel rollers a lot of times to help us finger press the canvas and create really nice creases for our hems. We'll be using a hammer to set our rivets as one of our techniques but there's a secondary technique which uses a rivet setter and a mallet. But whenever you set your rivets, you also need a really hard surface. This slab of quartz is great, I got it at a local counter-top store and oftentimes they will have off cuts that they can sell you for a relatively inexpensive or even for free. To make holes in your fabric or leather straps, I suggest a cutting board with a drive punch and a mallet or alternatively, you can use a rotary leather punch. This is my favorite one to use. We sell it on our site. It has a hydraulic assist and it requires 70 percent less power to squeeze so that's really helpful too. When you're setting your rivets, we use a 330 seconds strive punch to create holes in the fabric. But if you are making your leather straps, we suggest a one-eighth inch drive punch to make holes in the leather straps. I suggest using a leather pen for marking the leather to make your leather straps. Over here we have pattern weights for when you cut out your fabric, it holds it down nice and flat. 5. Prepare Your Fabric: So we're going to make the Portsmith Tote and this is the pattern we'll be using. I'm going to go ahead and open this up. Then I cut on this line here. We'll go ahead and cut our base out. This pattern is now cut out. There's a place on fold mark but we'll be working with wax canvas, which shows every single crease. Here's a scrap of wax canvas but you could see that if I crinkle this up, you see all the creases and this is the nature of the fabric. It's one of the reasons that it's so cool. It has such a story. Some more and more creases appear as you use the fabric and over time they all blend together. Generally, when I'm working with waxed canvas, instead of folding the fabric, which is going to give me that hard line in order to cut my pattern piece, I'm actually going to mirror my pattern pieces instead. Okay? We're going to start with this brush brown, which is available as a maker kit, a full maker kit if you want it to just come already cut. Otherwise, we'll go ahead and cut it. I'm going to use this clover chalk pencil, and I cut myself a nice straight line to begin with. So what I'm going to do is use that line for my pattern. Then I'm going to take this cutting ruler and come up here, lay it over my paper pattern piece so that I can have a nice hard line to trace against. Otherwise the paper can move. So these are what we use for pattern weights. They're actually just large washers from the hardware store, but they work a great. So I'm going to come over here and trace this line now. Because I'm pivoting or I'm going to mirror it right here. I'm going to give myself a little tick mark, okay? Also we want to add our fold two marks, just right here and right here. Then we also want to go ahead and punch some holes in here and add some marks for our strap placement, am going to go for the rotary leather punch. But you can also use a drive punch. I'm just going to punch out the holes in my pattern there. All right. So then I'm going to go ahead and trace in these holes there. I'm going to move my pattern weights and then I'm going to mirror this to this side here. So this is sort of what you would do instead of placing the fabric on the fold. So if you are placing unfold, then lets agree you only have to lay the pattern piece out one direction and you don't have to mirror it. We're going to add our benchmarks to this side two or strap placement marks. There's the terminology to this side here, and now I'm going to take my rotary cutter and my quilting ruler and I'm on a self-heating cutting mat. So you always need to use a cutting mat when using a rotary cutter. I'm actually going to take my fabric scissors and I'm going to cut little snips into my center points. Then I actually am going to snip into this fold two marks down here, just so you can read them from either side. I'm going to punch these holes out now. That's going to help me later know where my strap placement marks are in case these chalk marks rub off. All right. So now we're going to cut the base and it has the same place on full. But since this is wax canvas, we're going to mirror it. Put my pattern weights on here. Get myself little tick marks for where I'm going to mirror it, like that. I want my full marks, I want to transfer my marks. I'm also going to snap into my center points so that I can match them up with the center points of the bag. So now we have everything cut. 6. Prepare and Attach Base: So now we're going to go ahead and prep to attach the base to the bag. This is the stitch that we're prepping for, which is a top stitch to attach the reinforcement base layer onto the body of the bag. I'm going to take the base layer here, and then I'm going to take my quilting ruler. Now we're going to connect these fold two lines for the base layer, covering up an inch and a half of my base piece with the ruler and then I'm going to draw a line to connect the two. What this is, is a fold two line, meaning that the fabric is folding to meet that line. Then we're going to finger press it because we're working with waxed canvas. But if you are working with non-waxed canvas, you would press this with an iron. What we are doing here is creating a three-quarter inch single turn hem, which is why our full two mark is an inch and a half because three-quarters of an inch times 2 is an inch and a half. So I'm going to go ahead and rotate this around and connect these lines here, and then do the same thing on this side. I'm prepping to attach this base layer to the main piece. The reason that we're doing a single turn hem is to hide the raw edge of the fabric because it frays over time, it's woven fabric and it'll fray. So just talking conceptually here, when you're sewing, generally you want to hide the raw edges on your work so that it doesn't fray over time. So that's why we're doing this here. I'm going to grab the main piece here, and like I said, we're hiding the raw edges. So I'm going to flip this over, and then we're going to take the cut marks in the center cut mark here and align that up with the center mark that we snipped into on the main piece. Then we're going to come down here and align those up here. Then I'm going to grab some straight pins and pin this. The best way to pin thick fabric is to actually grab the fabric from the front and the back and push the fabric into the pin and the pin into the fabric at the same time. Otherwise, you're going to have a hard time pushing the pins in. Then I'm going to come down over here and do this one. Then don't pin in a way where it feels awkward. For me it would be weird to pin this down here, so I'm actually going to rotate my work so that it's easier for me to pin. Then we're going to stick some pins in the middle. Now the middle is a little bit harder to pin, so you actually have to lift all of your fabric to push it into the pin. One of the things that you learn when you're learning how to make bags is how to handle thick and heavy weight fabric. So after we've pin, you want to just do one last double-check and make sure that this distance here on this side equals this distance on this side. An easy way to check that is to actually take your fabric and just fold it in half and match up the tops here and actually look on the site here and look at the tops of your base and see if they're even. You know you're usually good if you're within an eighth of an inch there and that looks great and that's just a nice little last minute check before you go and sew it down, because what we're trying to do here is match our points on the side seam there. So that's what we're checking for there. Let's go to the machine. Now that we've prepared the base layer and pinned it on, we're going to go ahead and attach it at the sewing machine. We're going to be using the edge ditch presser foot to make a top stitch here along the folded edge here. So this has a little bar on it and that runs along the edge of the fold and gives you a straight stitch in relation to the fold. So we're going to use this to make an edge stitch. We're going to go ahead and switch out for this. This should be pretty universal for a lot of machines. There'll be a quick release lever here, and when you push that in, it's going to drop your standard presser foot off. Then we're going to put this on so the way that I like to explain this is we basically want to come in over here and look at how that looks like the Lego hand. It's like that, and that's what's to clamp down on the bar there. I like to hold my presser foot from the front and the back like this, and then look over at the Lego hand and position it, the bar under there and then it's a different lever to bring the Lego hand to the bar. It's the presser foot lever, which is back here. You'll know that it actually clicked into place if you raise the presser foot and it's actually attached to the Lego hand. Then, of course, you want your top thread under your presser foot and just to the back.The other we're going to need to do is in order to use the edge ditch presser foot, you need to change your needle position. The needle position needs to either be to the left or to the right. We're going to come up here to needle position here, and we're going to push it so that the needle goes to the left because the goal is to sew the black fabric to the brown fabric, and when our needle is centered, we're not actually going to end up doing a stitch that sews the black to the brown. So we want to move our needle to the left because the black fabric is on the left side, and so the black fabrics that top fabric. Whatever fabric is on top, you move the needle to that side there. That's going to give us our edge stitch along this folded edge. When you're sewing, I'm just talking conceptually again, the job of your hands is to control the fabric. So as you're learning to sew, you're responding to what you see. So if I start to see my fabric come off that guide, I can respond with my hands. Also remember as a beginner sewer, you can stop and start as many times as you want to along your stitch, as long as you set your needle in, you can force your fabric and reposition it because then you know that when you pick up and sew again, you're in the same exact spot that you stopped in. So I got to take that pin out because it's in my way. Here we go again. Here now I'm getting close to the edge of the fabric and I need to do a reverse stitch. Take my finger and hover it on the reverse lever and when my eye sees the needle at the end, I'm going to hit reverse. Just like that. Just a few stitches back and then forward, then I'm going to stop sewing and take my hands to my hand wheel and rotate my needle up. Then I'm going to lift my presser foot and pull my work out. I can use the cutter here, but if you use the cutter like this, make sure you pull your thread tails longer otherwise, you'll spend a lot of time threading in the eye of the needle. Now we're going to go ahead and sew the other side of the base down and then set the needle in with my hand wheel turning the hand wheel towards me holding the fabric up on the same plane as the bed of the machine. My reverse stitch. I stopped sewing, but I want to move my hands, so I'm going to set my needle in and that way I can take my pin out and also readjust my fabric if need be. So now we're done sowing the base on. 7. Prepare and Sew Tote Hem: This is my project so far and I'm going to go ahead and prepare the Tote Hem. I'm going to flip this over. I'm going to grab my whole team ruler here, and my chi-co pen liner.the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to make a one-inch fold to mark, to create a half-inch Hem, here. Now, I'm going to finger press the fabric to both of those fold to marks, and pin them in place. Then I'm going to take my label, which comes in your filmmaker kit, and it seems cumbersome when inside and I made this on the other. Then I'm going to go ahead and stick this flag label into the Ham. I want to just back off the raw edge of the fabric by at least an inch and a half. Okay. I'm going to come to the other side and fold them, prepare bad ends so that I can go to the machine and sew both of them. I'm going to cover up an inch of my fabric, to make my first fold to mark for my half-inch single fold. Then I'm going to come up here, and connect these fold to marks also for the second fold. I'm going to finger press this half-inch single fold here, and then fold to this mark here. Then pin this in place. I now set up to sew this Hem. So now we're going to go ahead and sew our Hem down, using the edge ditch foot. Let me show you how to deal with the label here. Few stitches forward and a few stitches back. I'm going to set my needle in so that I can pull the pin out of label, in that bar on the edge to each foot is just going to run into the label. Just like that. What we'll go ahead and do is set the needle in, lift the presser foot, and then move the labels back slightly. So that when I put the presser foot back down, the bar is on top of the label. Then we'll go right up and over. Then we're going to roll this out and sew that same exact stitch on the other side. 8. Construct Envelope Fold: Now we're going to do an envelope fold on the Portsmith Tote. You've already sewn the base on and you've sewn the hem, and this is the right side of the fabric, the side that's going to show. The first thing that we're going to do is we're going to fold it. It's right sides together with the top of the top lined up, up here. Lining up the top of the tote here. We align those up. Then we're going to turn this and we're going to stick a pin in perpendicular to the seam up here, with the pointy part of the pin towards the raw edge. Then we're going to come down here and we're going to line up the top of the base. With here it's the black. That's lined up. Then I'm going to stick a in pin right above the base. This pin position is really particular. Don't pin through all the layers of the base. Just pin through these two layers of the bag here, right above it. We have pins in this side here, but we need to put pins in this side here. A rule of thumb with sewing is your pins should be face up when you're sewing. Another rule of thumb with sewing is you should sew with the bulk of your work to the left of your machine, which means that this will be face up when you're sewing this edge, but this side will be face up when you're sewing this edge. Go ahead and flip your bag around and stick your pins in the two places just like on the other side. I'm going to rotate this because it's easier to pin that way, and then I'm going to go ahead and match up the tops of my bag here and stick a pin in perpendicular to the seam. Then I'm going to come over here and match up the tops of my base and stick a pin in right above the base there. I have my pins in the correct places to do the envelope fold. We're going to have inside the bag. Then we're going to grab the bottom center point here. Then what we're doing is we're actually pivoting the bag right up here at the transition between the base and the main part of the bag. We're taking our middle bottom center points, and we are matching that up to the tops of the base layer. This center point here, which is a slit in my project, is matching up with the fold there at the top of the base. Then I'm going to take this whole part here and I'm going to pivot it down at the center point, and fold it down. Just like that. That's how I'm creating the fold for the envelope base. If you fold this down and the your two-fold tier aren't quite matching up, then you can go ahead and adjust that a little bit until you get them to match up like that, and the same on your other side. I'm just going to push that up a little, fold that down, and then that's matching up. Then I'm going to take my craft clips here, and I'm going to stick a couple of clips in on this side. Then I can flip this over and stick a couple in from this side. Now I'm ready to sew my half-inch seam allowances for my main side seams. For those of you that are really new to sewing, a great tip is to actually draw a stitching line for your half inch seam allowance. I'm going to take a quilting ruler here, and I'm going to take my chaco pen liner here. I'm actually going to cover up my bag, my side seam with a half an inch of the ruler. I'm going to draw a line on that half inch, and that's going to actually be my half inch seam allowance stitch line. That's a really great trick for beginner sewers. Of course, remember you need to backstitch up here, and backstitch down here. My line is on the same side as my pins. I'm going to flip and draw the line on this side. Now I'm ready to sew my side seams. I can stick a couple clips in here, and we're good to go. 9. Sew Side Seams: So we just prepared the envelope fold and we have our piece here and now we're going to seal the side seems up. So we're going to switch back to regular presser foot. Then you're going to come up and center your needle. I also want you to open this in here and grab your seam guide here. You're going to go ahead and stick this in here, line it up to the half inch seam allowance mark on the face fleet, which is a mark that's in-between 38 and 58. Now we're going to go ahead and sew up the sides seams. A few stitches back and a few stitches forward and then a little bit of a reverse. Then since I put my pins in perpendicular to my seam, I can go straight over them. So I'm also going to go and sew over my pin here. Then my machine is going to go from two layers of fabric to a bunch more layers of fabric here, so I want to go slow over that junction point. Might not even need to push the machine just a little. Then may reverse. So that's one side. I'm going to take my pins out now. So not forget that they are there. Then we'll go ahead and flip this over and sew the other side. So notice I'm sewing on my chalk mark, but I also have this seam guide too, so I have two check points for my seam allowance. Two checkpoints for me putting my stitch in the right place. So now that we've done a straight stitch, we're going to go ahead and do a zigzag stitch. So we're going to come over to our stitch selector dial and come to the zigzag. Then up to our stitch length, we're going to come to one-and-a-half and then our stitch width, we're going to come up to six. So we want a wide zigzag that's close together. Then when I go in to start my stitch, I'm going to start with my fabrics, the right edge of my fabric centered with the presser foot and put my presser foot down. Then I'm going to actually rotate my hand wheel and until I see the right side of the zigzag. So I'm coming down on the left side of the zigzag and there's the needle moving right to do the right side of the zigzag. What I actually want is my needle to not be on the fabric when it's on the right side of the zigzag. That looks like a great spot. I just want to say that if you guys came in and you go like this and you rotate the hand wheel so the needle comes down and it actually punctures the fabric, it means you need to move your fabric slightly to the left. So I'm going to rotate the needle out, lift my presser foot and just move my fabric slightly to the left so that when I push the needle down, it's not on the fabric. Then I know I'm in the right spot. Because the goal of the zigzag is to bind the raw edge of the fabric. It's like an alternative to a suitor. Then I can go ahead and do my stitch. Now that you've sewn the side seams, I'm going to show you how to turn the bag right side out and how to get that really cool envelope fold in the corners here. So I'm going to just go ahead and take the bag and open it up. I'm going to take my left hand and I'm going to put it in here and assume you making this shape here. So the idea with this is that the side seam stays in the center of the triangle and the corners of your bag are made by the way, the bag is folded. So I'm actually going to take this, I'm going to push it into my hand. Then inside here now my right hand is making this shape, and I'm pushing the corners out. Notice that the corners of the bag are made by the fold. So you can actually, I involve this triangle here and make it look even by how the fabric is folded. There's only a seam in the center. Your side seam stays in the center of the triangle on the inside of the bag. It looks like this. So if you go and turn your bag right side out and your triangle looks crooked, like if it's smaller this way and longer this way, you just have to show me the fabric over that direction and even it out. Now sometimes what I see people do is push the side seam all the way out to the corner of the base and that's actually not going to give you your envelope fold. So it starts to look something like this and people think they've done it wrong, but you haven't done it wrong at all. You just need to make sure that side seam stays in the center of the triangle. So that's the side. We'll go ahead and even out the triangle there. Starting to see that take shape more. So then I'll go ahead and turn this side out. We'll do it a little quicker, but I'll be doing a lot of the stuff I talked about on the other side. So I'm putting my left hand in there and I'm making this shape and I'm poking out the corners. Then I'm going to take my right hand, I'm going to grab the side seam and I'm going to push that and turn the bag right side out. Then there is my triangle, there is my envelope fold right there. 10. Attach Leather Straps: We're going to talk about adding leather straps. We're going to be using our tote bag leather straps finishing kit here. This is what we're going for and I'm going to show you how to do that. If you bought a Portsmith wax canvas tote maker kit, some of the holes come pre-punched in on one part and then you'll have to punch the hole all the way through the bag to actually attach the straps. I'll show you one way to do it, which is with a cutting board, a drive punch that's 330 seconds drive punch and a mallet. The other way I'll show you is with a rotary leather punch that has lots of options here too and I'll show you how to pick the right one to use. We'll start with the drive punch. You'll go ahead and just make sure you have wood or some sort of cutting surface on the bottom. Some sort of surface that's ideal for cutting and using hole punchers. Then you're just going to want to come over the pre-existing hole or over one of the marks that you made from your pattern, hold that on there and then hit it with a mallet in order to get your holes. You're going to do that to all eight holes. That's four on one side and then do the four on the other side. You could also use a rotary hole punch here. I'm going to go ahead and open up the maker kit here, and I'll show you how to pick the right size. When you open up your maker kit, you'll see a few things. One is going to be the actual tutorial, and then you're going to see two leather straps. The holes are already punched on the ends. They are 28 inches long by three-quarters of an inch, and a bag of rivets and leather washers. We have our hardware and our leather washers, and I'm going be putting those off to the side for now. When you're using this hole punch here, the hole that you're looking for should match the diameter of the stem on the long rivet. The way that this works is you want to just push it over your mark or your pre-existing mark there and use one hand to hold it in place, but sometimes it's hard to squeeze, so then grab your other hand on the end and use both hands and squeeze it down. You want to do that for all of your holes. Sometimes you'll hear a little click as it punches through the fabric, sometimes not. You will do that for all those. Now you have all the holes on here. Now we'll go ahead and add the straps. The most important thing to remember when you're adding straps is, the same strap goes on the same side of your bag. Also make sure that your strap is not twisted, just like that. That's how it'll go. I'm going to start by threading the stem of the rivet into a washer from the right side of the leather. Then I'm going to come into the tote and place the stem of the rivet into the tote from the inside of my bag. I'm going to do that for one more rivet and place that from the back side, the wrong side of the fabric. Then I'm going to place my leather strap on top, thread a D ring on, place it on there on the other stem, and then stick two caps on. The leather washers here are really going to strengthen this strap attachment and help with tear out of the metal in the fabric over time and use. I'm going to take the stem of a rivet and thread it through the washer from the right side of the leather, and then I'm going to come from the inside the tote and push the stem up. Then do that for one more rivet, and I'm going to push the leather strap onto the rivets and connect the caps. Now, this is setup to hammer, so now that we've got our leather straps setup with our washers, we're going to hammer these rivets. They need to be hammered on a hard surface like marble or stone or if you have an anvil and if you don't have an anvil, you can also use the side of a hammer underneath your rivet. I'm going to show you how to set these rivets with a hammer, then I'm also going to show you how to set them with an industrial hand press fitted with the correct dyes for double cap rivets. We're going to set the rivets on this strap here. I'm going to start with showing you how to set the rivets where the D ring is. We need to flip the D ring out of the way after we set this route so that we can get in there and set that rivets. Right now it's flipped down, it's out of the way. I can come in here and hammer the top one. Let's start with a light tap, just to get the rivet to start to set down, because if I go in too heavy at first I might set the rivet crooked. Then once it starts to set down a little, I can hit it a little harder. Then you can tell that it's set because it's like indented into the leather there. Now that I've set the top one, I'm going to come and flip the D ring up so that it's not in the way so I can set the bottom rivet there. Again, starting with a light tap and then going in and hitting it a few more times, a little heavier. I hammer from the inside in case I miss the rivet indented that I indent the inside rivet and not the one on the outside and that's what the rivets look like set. Now, if you don't have marble or stone or an anvil, you can also lay the rivets on top of the side of a hammer and it acts as an anvil, and you can hammer along there too. That's how that set on the hammer, and then we're going to move over to the industrial hand press and I'll show you how to set that one. This is an industrial hand press and we're just going to set it up with the correct dyes for those double cap rivets. The press accepts a bunch of different dyes to paint on what hardware you're setting, and we're going to grab the medium double cap rivet dye, and the larger one of the two goes in the bottom, and the smaller one goes in the top. This is a little spring loaded, so the rivet cap sits in there and then we press it down. I'm going to go ahead and stick this side of the rivet face down in there because it's sticking out a little bit more, so I'll be able to tell that it seats in there correctly. Then I'm actually going to push on the handle all the way down until it stops, and then I'm going to stand up and lean on it with my body weight and I can feel it press down and set the rivet just like that. We have all four rivets on one of our straps set and then we'll set the rivets on the other side. 11. Conclusion: Congrats, you did it. We learned how to attach leather straps, hammered rivets, did a beautiful envelope fold, and made a three-dimensional object with your own two hands from scratch. Now that you've completed this bag, you're ready for the next thing. Checkout Klumhouse.com for our complete bag pattern collection. Share your makes, tag us on Instagram, show us what you made. Thank you for making with me. I really hope you had a great time.